1)

2) Based on the appearance and/or reported age of the foundation (or sections of the foundation), it may not be reinforced. Foundations without modern reinforcement such as metal "rebar" are prone to failure during earthquakes. Typically, concrete foundations built prior to the 1930s, or brick foundations built with "header" courses, are not reinforced. Consult with a qualified engineer to determine if the foundation should be replaced or repaired.

3) The masonry (brick or stone) veneer was deteriorated or damaged in some areas. Where cracks or openings are exposed, water can enter the wall structure causing mold, fungal growth and structural damage. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary. For example, by repointing mortar or replacing broken or missing masonry.

4) One or more sections of horizontal trim boards had no "Z" flashing installed above them where they met siding. "Z" flashing should be installed above these boards to reduce the chance of leaks between the trim and siding. Without this flashing, caulk and paint must be diligently maintained, or water can enter wall cavities and cause rot and possible structural damage. Recommend that a qualified contractor install flashing above horizontal trim boards where missing and per standard building practices. Note that when trim or siding is removed to install flashing, damaged wood may be found and additional repairs may be needed.

5) Soil was in contact with or less than 6 inches from brick, trim or structural wood. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend grading or removing soil as necessary to maintain a 6-inch clearance. If not possible, then recommend replacing untreated wood with rot resistant pressure-treated lumber. Since even pressure-treated materials can eventually decay, plan to periodically check the condition of any wood that is in contact with earth. Note that damage from fungal rot and/or insects may be discovered when soil is removed, and further repairs and wood replacement may be necessary.

6) One or more windows or doors were installed with no "drip cap" or "Z" flashings installed above them. Better building practices call for such flashings, which greatly reduce the chance of leaks above windows and doors. Without this flashing, caulk and paint must be maintained or water can enter the wall structure and cause rot and possible structural damage. Depending on the exposure (e.g. roof overhang, height of exterior wall, direction of prevailing rain) this may or may not be an issue. The client should monitor these areas in the future and maintain caulk and paint as necessary. Consult with a qualified contractor about installing flashings where needed, and per standard building practices. Note that when trim or siding is removed to install flashing, damaged wood may be found and additional repairs may be needed.

7) Rear Fence(s) were not attached properly could not close (ensure upon repair) fence does not come in contact with the building exterior. Such attachments can serve as a pathway for wood-destroying insects and can retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary so there is at least a 2-inch gap between fences and building exteriors.

8) One or more holes or gaps were found in siding or trim. Vermin, insects or water may enter the structure. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

9) One or more minor cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These didn't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitor them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including hydraulic cement, non-shrinking grout, resilient caulks and epoxy sealants.

10) Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines was in contact with or close to the building exterior. Vegetation can serve as a pathway for wood-destroying insects and can retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend pruning, moving or removing vegetation as necessary to maintain at least 6 inches of space between it and the building exterior. A 1-foot clearance is better.

11) The masonry (brick or stone) veneer extended below the soil at one or more exterior walls. Masonry veneers should be installed so the bottom edge is at least a few inches above the soil so that any water accumulated inside the wall structure can drain from weep holes, and so termites don't enter the structure through mortar joints or cracks in the veneer. If soil, decorative bark, etc. has been back-filled against the veneer, it should be graded or removed as necessary to expose weep holes (if they're installed) and to maintain a few inches of clearance between the veneer and the soil below. Otherwise, the client should at least be aware of this potential for water and insect intrusion, and monitor these walls inside and out for any signs of accumulated moisture in the future. If damage occurs, recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?MVBG

12) The paint or stain finish over much of the entire structure was failing (e.g. peeling, faded, worn, thinning). Siding and trim with a failing finish can be damaged by moisture. Recommend that a qualified contractor prep (e.g. clean, scrape, sand, prime, caulk) and repaint or restain the entire building exterior per standard building practices. Any repairs needed to the siding or trim should be made prior to this.

13) The paint or stain finish in some areas was failing (e.g. peeling, faded, worn, thinning). Trim with a failing finish can be damaged by moisture. Recommend that a qualified contractor prep (e.g. clean, scrape, sand, prime, caulk) and repaint or restain the building exterior where necessary and per standard building practices. Any repairs needed to the siding or trim should be made prior to this.

14) Caulk was deteriorated and/or substandard in some areas. For example, around windows and/or around doors. Recommend that a qualified person renew or install caulk as necessary. Where gaps are wider than 1/4 inch, an appropriate material other than caulk should be used. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?CAULK

15) Footings appeared to be missing from below the foundation. While this is not unusual in some older homes, Poured-in-place concrete footings should be installed below foundations. Without footings, foundations are prone to settlement and subsequent failure. Consult with a qualified structural and/or geotechnical engineer to determine if repairs are needed. Repairs should be made by a qualified contractor and per standard building practices.

17)

18) Significant amounts of standing water were found at one or more locations in the crawl space. Water from crawl spaces can evaporate and enter the structure above causing high levels of moisture in the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. While a minor amount of seasonal water is commonly found in crawl spaces, significant amounts should not be present. Rain runoff is the most common cause of wet crawl spaces, but water can come from other sources such as groundwater or underground springs. Recommend that a qualified person correct any issues related to outside perimeter grading and/or roof drainage (see any other comments about this in this report). Also, review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner about past accumulation of water in the crawl space. If standing water persists, then recommend that a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues evaluate and repair as necessary. Typically such repairs include:

• Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
• Applying waterproof coatings to foundation walls
• Digging trenches in the crawl space to collect or divert water
• Installing sump pumps

19) Fungal rot was found at one or more support posts. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair as necessary. All rotten wood should be replaced.

20) One or more adjustable steel columns were found. Some adjustable steel columns are rated for permanent use, but some are not. Based on the inspector's observations, columns in this building may not be rated for permanent use and may pose a safety risk for collapse. Recommend that a qualified contractor familiar with regulations surrounding use of such columns evaluate and repair if necessary, and per standard building practices.

21) One or more indoor crawl space access hatches or doors were not insulated, or had substandard insulation. Recommend installing insulation as necessary and per current standards at hatches or doors for better energy efficiency.

22) One or more indoor crawl space access hatches or doors had no weatherstripping, or the weatherstripping was substandard. Weatherstripping should be installed around hatches or doors as necessary for better energy efficiency and to prevent dust or odor-laden air from the crawl space entering living spaces.

23) One or more support posts were not positively secured to the beam above. While this is common in older homes, current standards require positive connections between support posts and beams above for earthquake reinforcement. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices. For example, by installing metal plates, plywood gussets or dimensional lumber connecting posts and beams.

24) One or more support posts were constructed of multiple pieces of lumber instead of one continuous piece. Such posts lack strength and are subject to collapse during an earthquake. A single, solid piece of lumber that extends from the footing below to the beam above should be used for wooden support posts. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices. For example, by replacing such posts with a single piece of adequately-sized dimensional lumber.

25) One or more crawl space vents were below grade, and either no wells were installed, or wells were substandard. Vent wells should be installed when vents are at or near grade to prevent debris from blocking vents and/or water from entering vents. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person install, replace or repair vent wells per standard building practices.

26) One or more outdoor crawl space access hatches or doors were missing, damaged, deteriorated or substandard. Water and/or vermin can enter the crawl space. Recommend that a qualified person replace, install or repair hatches or doors where necessary.

27) The vapor barrier in many areas of the crawl space was deteriorated. Soil was exposed as a result and will allow water from the soil to evaporate up into the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. A 6 mil black plastic sheet should be placed over all exposed soil with seams overlapped to 24 inches, and not in contact with any wood structural components. The sheeting should be held in place with bricks or stones, not wood. Recommend that a qualified person replace or repair the vapor barrier where necessary and per standard building practices.

28) The screens for one or more crawl space vents were missing, damaged and/or deteriorated. Vermin or pets can enter the crawl space and nest, die and/or leave feces and urine. Vermin often damage under-floor insulation too. Recommend that a qualified person install or replace screens where necessary using 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch wire mesh.

32)

33) The inspector was unable to verify that the glass used in one or more exterior doors was approved safety glass. Glazing that is not approved safety glass located in areas subject to human impact is a safety hazard. Approved safety glass should be used in all swinging doors except where "art glass," jalousie windows or glazing smaller than 3 inches is used. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate further to determine if glazing is approved safety glass, and replace glass if necessary, and per standard building practices.

34) Risers for stairs at one or more locations were higher than 7 3/4 inches and posed a fall or trip hazard. Risers should be 7 3/4 inches or shorter. At a minimum, be aware of this hazard, especially when guests who are not familiar with the stairs are present. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices.

35) The risers for stairs at one or more locations varied in height and pose a fall or trip hazard. Risers within the same flight of stairs should vary by no more than 3/8 inch. At a minimum, be aware of this hazard, especially when guests who are not familiar with the stairs are present. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices.

36) Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were missing. This is a potential fall hazard. Handrails should be installed at stairs with four or more risers or where stairs are greater than 30 inches high. Recommend that a qualified contractor install handrails where missing and per standard building practices.

37) Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were . This is a safety hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

38) Guardrails at one or more locations with drop-offs higher than 30 inches were , and pose a fall hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair guardrails as necessary.

39) Evidence of prior water intrusion was found in one or more sections of the basement. For example, water stains or rust at support post bases, efflorescence on the foundation, etc. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms and should not be present in the basement. Recommend reviewing any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner about past accumulation of water in the basement. The basement should be monitored in the future for accumulated water, especially after heavy and/or prolonged periods of rain. If water is found to accumulate, then recommend that a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in basements include:

• Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
• Improving perimeter grading
• Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains

Ideally, water should not enter basements, but if water must be controlled after it enters the basement, then typical repairs include installing a sump pump.

40) Standing water was found in one or more sections of the basement. Accumulated water can be a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms and should not be present in the basement. Review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner about past accumulation of water in the crawl space. Recommend that a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in basements include:

• Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
• Improving perimeter grading
• Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains

Ideally, water should not enter basements, but if water must be controlled after it enters the basement, then typical repairs include installing a sump pump.

41) Weatherstripping around one or more exterior doors was . Water may enter the building, or energy efficiency may be reduced. Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace weatherstripping as necessary.

43)

44) Substandard repairs were found at one or more locations on the roof surface. Leaks can occur as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair per standard building practices.

45) Some composition shingles were broken. Leaks can occur as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary. For example, by replacing shingles.

46) Gutters were missing over one or more entrances. People entering and exiting the building are likely to get wet during periods of rain as a result. Most buildings benefit from having a complete drainage system installed, but at a minimum, recommend installing gutters over entrances.

47) Extensions such as splash blocks or drain pipes for one or more downspouts were poorly sloped and/or clogged. Water can accumulate around the building foundation or inside crawl spaces or basements as a result. Recommend that a qualified person install, replace or repair extensions as necessary so rainwater drains away from the structure.

48) One or more gutters and/or downspouts were incomplete, missing and/or damaged. Rainwater can come in contact with the building exterior or accumulate around the building foundation as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

49) Significant amounts of debris have accumulated in one or more gutters or downspouts. Gutters can overflow and cause water to come in contact with the building exterior, or water can accumulate around the foundation. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend cleaning gutters and downspouts now and as necessary in the future.

53) The electric meter socket enclosure (meter base) appeared to be rated for less amperage than other service components (e.g. service drop wires, main disconnect and main service panel). This can result in the meter socket enclosure being overloaded. This is a potential fire hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and repair if necessary.

54) One or more ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) circuit breakers in panel(s) # when tested. GFCI breakers reduce the chance of shock when using equipment in wet areas. This is a potential shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as necessary.

55) One or more arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) circuit breakers in panel(s) # when tested. AFCI breakers reduce the risk of fire by protecting against overheated or arcing receptacles or light fixtures. This is a potential fire hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as necessary.

56) Grounding at sub-panel(s) # appeared to be . This is a potential hazard for shock. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and repair if necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SUBGRND

57) One or more ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices protecting receptacles at the exterior wouldn't reset when tripped. This is a potential shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as necessary.

58) One or more electric receptacles at the exterior and/or crawl space had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, or the inspector was unable to determine if GFCI protection was present. If not GFCI-protected, receptacles in wet areas pose a shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and install GFCI protection if necessary and per standard building practices. General guidelines for GFCI-protected receptacles include the following locations:

• Outdoors (since 1973)
• Bathrooms (since 1975)
• Garages (since 1978)
• Kitchens (since 1987)
• Crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990)
• Wet bar sinks (since 1993)
• Laundry and utility sinks (since 2005)

For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?GFCI

59) One or more electric receptacles at the bedroom(s) and/or laundry area had no visible arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protection, or the inspector was unable to determine if AFCI protection was present. This is a potential safety hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and install AFCI protection if necessary and per standard building practices. General guidelines for AFCI-protected receptacles include the following locations:

• Bedrooms (since 1999)
• Kitchens, laundry areas, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens and recreation rooms, sunrooms, closets and hallways (since 2014)

For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?AFCI

60) Neutral and equipment ground wires were bonded (connected) at sub-panel(s) # . This should only occur in the main service panel, not sub-panels, and is a shock hazard. Neutral wires should be attached to a "floating" neutral bar not bonded to the panel, and grounding wires should be attached to a separate grounding bar bonded to the sub-panel. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair per standard building practices. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SUBGRND

61) One or more installed outside were loose and/or damaged. This is a potential shock and/or fire hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair as necessary.

62) Smoke alarms were missing from one or more bedrooms and/or from one or more hallways leading to bedrooms. Smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning alarm exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, in each bedroom and on each level. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRM

63) Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may have been installed more than 10 years ago. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRMLS

64) One or more electrical components including appeared to be older than their intended service life. Such old components may pose a fire or shock hazard. Recommend consulting with a qualified electrician to determine which components should be replaced with newer, modern components.

66) The inspector was unable to verify that the glass used in one or more windows was approved safety glass where required. Window glazing that is not approved safety glass, located in areas subject to human impact, is a safety hazard. Standard building practices generally require that approved safety glass be used in but not limited to the following conditions:

• Windows with a pane larger than 9 square feet, with a bottom edge closer than 18 inches to the floor and a top edge higher than 36 inches above the floor and within 36 inches, horizontally, of a walking surface
• Windows that are both within a 24-inch arc of a door and within 60 inches of the floor
• Glazing in walls enclosing stairway landings or within 5 feet of the bottom and top of stairways, where the bottom edge of the glass is less than 60 inches above the floor

Note that "art glass" (leaded, faceted, carved or decorative) may be an acceptable alternative for safety glass due to its visibility. Also, a 1 1/2-inch-wide protective bar on the accessible side of the glass, placed 34-38 inches above the floor, can serve as an acceptable substitute for safety glass. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate further to determine if glazing is approved safety glass, and replace glass if necessary, and per standard building practices.

67) One or more bedrooms had windows that wouldn't open or were stuck shut. Unless a bedroom has an exterior entry door, at least one window requires adequate egress in the event of a fire or emergency to allow escape or to allow access by emergency personnel. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or make modifications per standard building practices. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?EGRESS

68) Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were not graspable and posed a fall hazard. Handrails should be 1 1/4 - 2 inches in diameter if round, or 2 5/8 inches or less in width if flat. Recommend that a qualified person install graspable handrails or modify existing handrails per standard building practices.

69) Guardrails at one or more locations with drop-offs higher than 30 inches were missing. This poses a fall hazard. Guardrails should be installed where walking surfaces are more than 30 inches above the surrounding grade or surfaces below. Recommend that a qualified contractor install guardrails where missing and per standard building practices.

70) One or more handrails had no returns installed, where ends of handrails turn and connect to adjacent walls so objects or clothing will not catch on the open ends. This is a safety hazard. Recommend that a qualified person install returns per standard building practices.

71) Guardrails at one or more locations with drop-offs higher than 30 inches were missing components, and pose a fall hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair guardrails as necessary.

72) Floors in one or more areas were not level. This can be caused by foundation settlement or movement of the foundation, posts and/or beams. Significant repairs may be needed to make floors level. Recommend that a qualified contractor and/or engineer evaluate further. Repairs should be performed by a qualified contractor.

73) Floors in one or more areas were sagging or springy. This can be caused by over-spanned, undersized or too few joists or beams, or too few support posts. Recommend that a qualified contractor and/or engineer evaluate further. Repairs should be performed by a qualified contractor.

74) Wood flooring in one or more areas was buckling. This may indicate that the floor has been exposed to water or that the flooring was not allowed to equalize in moisture content before being installed. Consult with the property owner and/or have a qualified specialist evaluate. It's likely that affected areas of the wood flooring will need to be refinished to obtain a flat surface. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?WDFLRPRB

75) One or more exterior doors . Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

76) One or more entry doors wouldn't latch when closed. This is a security concern if no deadbolt is installed. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

77) Some exterior door hardware, including were inoperable. Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace as necessary.

exterior fencing would not close

78) One or more windows that were designed to open and close were difficult to open and close. Recommend that a qualified person repair windows as necessary so they open and close easily.

settling caused easy access opening

79) Fixtures such as closet shelving were . Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace as necessary.

Too low in bedrooms

80) Lock mechanisms on one or more windows were . This can pose a security risk. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

not visaable