Summary

1) The perimeter grading slopes towards the structure in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or seepage in the basement. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to seepage into the masonry wall. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with an effective slope of at least 5 deg. (10 or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet.

2) The address numbers are barely visible due to lack of contrast to background.
These numbers must be painted a bright colour -such as white- to ensure visibility from street level.

3) One or more non-GFCI receptacles were found at the exterior of the building. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

4) One or more outside faucets are missing back-flow prevention devices. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing back-flow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed.

5) One or more unlined plant beds are located adjacent to the side of the house. Such plant beds do not divert water away from the foundation. In fact, they create an absorption area for water.
Recommend either replacing them with grass, or modifying them so that no concrete-soil contact exists such as installing plastic or metal liners sloped away from the wall.

6) Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.

7) Wedge cracks or wedged portions of foundation corner wall were found at one or more corners. These are typical wedge crack imposed by expanding brick veneer; where the expanding and contracting brick veneer - secured to the foundation wall- wants to "slide" lengthwise along the foundation, but securement at the corner(s) is maintained and the brick tugs parts of the foundation wall with it.
There is no structural concern in this case and it is not likely the wedge cracks extend the full depth of the foundation wall but client may wish to keep cracks sealed and fill missing areas to prevent water infiltration into the wall.

8) One or more minor cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitoring them in the future.
A flexible sealant is best.

9) Masonry sills were configured as such where water could absorb into the surface or intrude into the wall structure.
Client should at minimum, maintain a quality seal at these prone areas. Thompson's Water Seal is one of many example products to use.
Caulking -preferably acrylic- should be applied and maintained at cracks and joints as necessary.

10) Caulk should be maintained where necessary to prevent water intrusion into the structure. For more information on caulking, visit www.ehow.com/how_8790_caulking-gun.html

11) One or more small trees are close the foundation. Trees will naturally grow larger and roots may eventually enter the foundation drainage system and compromise its effectiveness. Client should consider having a qualified tree service contractor or arborist remove trees as necessary to prevent damage to the drainage system.

12) One or more deck structures are attached to the home and bears on non-footed blocks or pads resting on the ground.
The ground on which the deck is bearing may expand and/or compress; compromising the attachment to the home. This could place undue stress on the deck and home.
Recommend having a qualified contractor further evaluate this and repair/replace as necessary.

13) The front asphalt shingle roofing material appears to be aging expectedly. No visual signs are present that led the inspector to believe there would be leaks at the time of the inspection.
However, like most systems within a home, roofing needs to be evaluated annually as to potential for leaks and maintained as necessary.
Things to look for include: loose or missing shingles, excessive curling, popped nails, ice damage, deterioration of the ceramic (stone) granular coating on the surface of the shingles, flashing, and dried/cracked tar at joints/transitions/protrusions etc.

14) The rear roof surface material appears to be approaching the end of its service life and will likely need replacing in the near future, even with repairs. The client(s) should budget for a replacement roof surface, and may want to have a qualified roofing contractor evaluate and attempt to issue a "2 year roof certificate".
Also see [url=http://www.ehow.com/how_269_replace-asphalt-shingles.html]

16) Stains were visible on the roof structure in one or more areas. These areas were dry at the time of the inspection. The stains may be caused by a past leak. Recommend asking the property owner(s) about past leaks. The client(s) should monitor these areas in the future, especially after heavy rains, to determine if active leaks exist. If leaks are found, a qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

20) A qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this water heater, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by combustible gas, this servicing should be performed every 3-5 years in the future.

21) Sediment accumulates at the bottom of water heaters, this sediment is sometimes disturbed by gusts of water usage leading to murky water at times.
It is good practice to drain a few gallons of water from the tank twice per year. This can be done by firmly attaching a garden hose to the bib at the side base of the water heater, leading the hose to a drain and opening the drain valve for a few seconds.
Note that this is best performed after the water has not flowed for several hours to ensure all sediment is at the very bottom of the tank. Early morning works for most.

If the heater is natural gas fired, be sure to keep the floor area under and around the heater clean and as dust-free as possible. Dust can get sucked in the air intake port at the very bottom on the heater causing clogs in the burner orifices and reduce the heater's efficiency.

22) No mixing valve was installed for the domestic hot-water supply. This poses a potential scalding hazard.
Water for domestic use should be heated to above 140c to control bacterial presence, but should be reduced thereafter to about 120c.
Recommend having a qualified technician install a mixing valve set to about 120c.

24) Evidence of past minor leaks were found at the furnace cabinet. However, the cabinet's integrity is still maintained. It appears the leak originates from the induction blower housing. Your service technician should repair this condensate leak.

25) A qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future.

26) Air handler filter(s) should be checked monthly in the future and replaced or washed as necessary.

29) The clothes dryer exhaust duct appeared to need cleaning. Significant amounts of lint build up was found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire from decreased air flow. This duct should be cleaned now and annually, or more often if necessary in the future. Some chimney sweeps or heating/cooling duct cleaners perform this service. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html or http://chimneykeepers.com/dryerclean.html

30) The laundry supply lines are rubber only. These are known to bust from time to time. Client would be wise in replacing these to braided lines to reduce this risk.

31) The gravity floor drain appeared in serviceable condition. Client should inspect and add water to floor drains periodically, and clean out the drain's p-trap from time to time.

32) The gravity drain's weeping tile collectors appeared in serviceable condition. Client should inspect these periodically and clean out the drain's p-trap and pit from time to time.

33) The main water shut-off valve serves as an emergency stop for the pressurized water supply system. An improperly working main valve could lead to worse water damage should a pipe burst for example.
Recommend testing the valve annually by following these steps.
1. Slowly turn the valve handle clockwise until it seats,
2. Open a nearby faucet to observe that no water is available (this may take a minute to depressurize the lines),
3. Once satisfied that the valve actually stops the flow, slowly turn the valve counterclockwise until seated in the fully opened position,
4. "Unseat" the valve by closing it a 1/4 turn.

Should the flow continue at step 2, have a qualified plumber evaluate for repair or replacement of the defective valve.

38) One or more lamp holders are installed less than seven feet from the floor below. This is a safety hazard. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, replacing the lamp holder with a caged fixture or a fixture with a sturdy globe.

39) Cross-bridging or blocking was never installed at mid-span of the floor system. This was common practice in this era but joists spanning greater than 8 feet should have blocking at mid-span to help stiffen the floor system and increase it's structural integrity.
Recommend repair, especially if rigid flooring material (such as ceramics) will be installed.

40) The cellar lacks ventilation.
The ideal cellar is well ventilated (especially in cold weather) to prevent moisture accumulation, any water lines should be well insulated (preferably with a heat-trace) and the wall area and door adjoining the living space should be insulated (including the door).
Recommend modifying the cellar to meet these optimal conditions.

42) One or more faucets are reverse-plumbed, where hot water flows when what should be cold water.
The standard calls for:
-Two-handled, or single-lever front-facing faucets, Cold on right, Hot on left, and
-Single level side-facing, Cold toward the front, Hot toward the rear.
Surprise scalding can occur otherwise.

Recommend reversing the supply lines below.

43) A range hood fan vents into the kitchen rather than outdoors. Ventilation may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified contractor make modifications as necessary as per standard building practices so the range hood fan vents outdoors.

44) Caulk is missing and/or deteriorated where countertops meet backsplashes in wet areas, such as around sinks. Caulk should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water damage.

47) Caulking is missing or deteriorated at one or more of the following locations:

-where a tub meets the floor,
-where a drop-in tub meets a deck,
-where protrusions penetrate a tub surround, x
-where a surround meets a tub,
-where a shower base meets the floor,
-where protrusions penetrate a shower surround,
-where the surround meets the shower base,
-where the countertop meets the wall,

Recommend replacing deteriorated caulking, and installing where missing to prevent water damage.

48) One or more toilets are loose. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new wax ring should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.

49) One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

50) Any and all opening between the ceiling and attic space should be sealed to prevent moist indoor air from entering the attic space. This is a contributing factor in aging shingles, mildew, rot etc.

51) Screen(s) in one or more windows are torn or have holes in them. Screens should be replaced where necessary.

52) One or more locksets are loose and should be tightened, repaired and or replaced as necessary.

53) Note: In order to prevent cold spots at exterior walls, be sure to keep items and furniture at least 3 inches away from exterior walls.
Placing such items too close to the wall will create conducive conditions for mold and moisture damage. The science behind this is that moisture seeks to condensate and will be attracted to cool spots in the home. This also explains why windows often steam-up during cool weather. And with a steady source of moisture on surfaces, this makes it attractive to mold and other fungal species. Pulling items away from these exterior walls with ensure that heat from the home keeps surfaces dry.

54) Occupants produce moisture; by breathing, perspiring, cooking and bathing/showering.
In the past (pre- 70's) homes were not sealed very well, and air was exchanged rather effectively under normal used. The advancement in windows, vapour barriers, sealants etc. cause homes to trap air within without fresh air being exchanged. An era of what were dubbed "sick homes" arose.
In the late 80's through to the 90's, the building industry recognized this and attempted to correct by various means.
Now, and since 1993, it's been mandatory -in new construction and major retrofits- to provide homes with an air-exchange system. These are sometimes referred to as: Air Exchanger, Venmar, Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV)etc.

In many cases, when few persons occupy a home, such a system is not evidently required.
In older homes that got renovated and better air-sealed, one must look at it as an effectively newer building.

Common signs of excess moisture in a home are generally seen during the cold months and include: sweaty windows, sweaty walls-especially at upper outside corners and closets, frozen exterior doors and windows, and paint blisters under windows -to name most.

The inspector was at this home a mere few hours and cannot logically determine the true needs based on your future occupancy. Therefore, once occupied, if any of the above signs become chronically apparent in cold weather,
client should consider having an HRV system installed at this home to provide occupants with control of air quality and moisture.

As a less-desired alternative -instead of an HRV- client may inquire about an air-draw system powered by a roof turbine and ducted to each floor.

55) 9 x 9" floor tiles are typically known to contain some amounts of asbestos fibre within the backing material.
While their installed presence poses no known concern, removal of the tiles could expose fiber to ambient air.
Recommend leaving these tiles down in future renovations, or, if renovations include disturbance of this flooring material, then professional help may be required.

58) One or more entry doors have deadbolts installed with no handle, and require a key to open them from both sides. This can be a safety hazard in the event of a fire when the key is not available. The door cannot be used as an exit then, causing entrapment. Key-only deadbolts should be replaced with deadbolts that have a handle on the inside on entry doors in rooms with no other adequate egress nearby.

59) Batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html

60) Smoke and CO detection alarms should be tested monthly.
These should also be replaced every 5-7 years to ensure accurate sensitivity.