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Inspector: Mike Gauthier

Your Home Inspection Report

Property address:  XXXX, Sudbury, ON
Inspection date:  Wednesday, October 31, 2018

This report published on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 8:15:30 PM EDT

This report is the exclusive property of INSPEC and the client(s) listed in the report title.
INSPEC will NOT release this report to any individual or entity without written permission of its client.
Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.

A home inspection is not a pass/fail test, nor will an inspector return to verify that defects were corrected.

Defects noted within this report are in comparison to what is considered as ideal by the housing industry. Personal safety of occupants and structural integrity of the home are front of mind during evaluation.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
Concern typeSafetyPoses a potential risk of injury or death
Concern typeRepair/ReplaceRecommend repairing or replacing
Concern typeRepair/MaintainRecommend repair and/or maintenance
Concern typeMinor DefectCorrection likely involves only a minor expense
Concern typeMaintainRecommend ongoing maintenance
Concern typeEvaluateRecommend evaluation by a specialist
Concern typeMonitorRecommend monitoring in the future
Concern typeServiceableItem or component is in serviceable condition
Concern typeCommentFor your information

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.Contact your inspector If there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at

Table of Contents

General information
Electric service
Water heater
Plumbing and laundry
Interior rooms
Fire Safety

View summary

General information
Table of contents
Report number: Sample
Estimated age of building: 1965ish
Structures Inspected: Home Only
Type of building: Single family
Time started: 8:40AM
Time finished: 10:25AM
Payment method: E-mail Money Transfer
Present during the inspection: Client's Dad
Occupancy: Owner was present during the inspection
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Outbuildings
Weather conditions: Drizzle
Outside Temperature: Cool (above zero to 10 celcius)
Ground condition: Wet
Front of structure faces: South
Main entrance faces: South
Driveway material: Paving stones
Sidewalk material: Paving stones
1) The perimeter grading slopes towards the structure in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or seepage in the basement. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to seepage into the masonry wall. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with an effective slope of at least 5 deg. (10 or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet.
2) The address numbers are barely visible due to lack of contrast to background.
These numbers must be painted a bright colour -such as white- to ensure visibility from street level.
Foundation material: Poured in place concrete
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Exterior wall covering: Brick veneer
Exterior door material: Solid core steel
3) One or more non-GFCI receptacles were found at the exterior of the building. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.
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4) One or more outside faucets are missing back-flow prevention devices. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing back-flow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed.
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5) One or more unlined plant beds are located adjacent to the side of the house. Such plant beds do not divert water away from the foundation. In fact, they create an absorption area for water.
Recommend either replacing them with grass, or modifying them so that no concrete-soil contact exists such as installing plastic or metal liners sloped away from the wall.
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6) Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
7) Wedge cracks or wedged portions of foundation corner wall were found at one or more corners. These are typical wedge crack imposed by expanding brick veneer; where the expanding and contracting brick veneer - secured to the foundation wall- wants to "slide" lengthwise along the foundation, but securement at the corner(s) is maintained and the brick tugs parts of the foundation wall with it.
There is no structural concern in this case and it is not likely the wedge cracks extend the full depth of the foundation wall but client may wish to keep cracks sealed and fill missing areas to prevent water infiltration into the wall.
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8) One or more minor cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitoring them in the future.
A flexible sealant is best.
9) Masonry sills were configured as such where water could absorb into the surface or intrude into the wall structure.
Client should at minimum, maintain a quality seal at these prone areas. Thompson's Water Seal is one of many example products to use.
Caulking -preferably acrylic- should be applied and maintained at cracks and joints as necessary.
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10) Caulk should be maintained where necessary to prevent water intrusion into the structure. For more information on caulking, visit
11) One or more small trees are close the foundation. Trees will naturally grow larger and roots may eventually enter the foundation drainage system and compromise its effectiveness. Client should consider having a qualified tree service contractor or arborist remove trees as necessary to prevent damage to the drainage system.
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Table of contents
12) One or more deck structures are attached to the home and bears on non-footed blocks or pads resting on the ground.
The ground on which the deck is bearing may expand and/or compress; compromising the attachment to the home. This could place undue stress on the deck and home.
Recommend having a qualified contractor further evaluate this and repair/replace as necessary.
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Roof inspection method: Traversed
Roof type: Cross gable
Roof covering: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Est. age of roof: 3 to 6 years old, at front, 15+ at rear
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Roof ventilation: Appears Adequate
13) The front asphalt shingle roofing material appears to be aging expectedly. No visual signs are present that led the inspector to believe there would be leaks at the time of the inspection.
However, like most systems within a home, roofing needs to be evaluated annually as to potential for leaks and maintained as necessary.
Things to look for include: loose or missing shingles, excessive curling, popped nails, ice damage, deterioration of the ceramic (stone) granular coating on the surface of the shingles, flashing, and dried/cracked tar at joints/transitions/protrusions etc.
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14) The rear roof surface material appears to be approaching the end of its service life and will likely need replacing in the near future, even with repairs. The client(s) should budget for a replacement roof surface, and may want to have a qualified roofing contractor evaluate and attempt to issue a "2 year roof certificate".
Also see [url=]
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Inspection method: Viewed from hatch
Roof structure type: Rafters
Ceiling structure: Ceiling beams
Insulation material: Fiberglass roll or batt, Mineral wool roll or batt
Estimated Insulation Depth/R-rating: approximately between 8 and 12 inches/R25-40
15) No weatherstrip is installed around the attic access hatch. Weatherstrip should be installed around the hatch to prevent heated interior air from entering attic.
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16) Stains were visible on the roof structure in one or more areas. These areas were dry at the time of the inspection. The stains may be caused by a past leak. Recommend asking the property owner(s) about past leaks. The client(s) should monitor these areas in the future, especially after heavy rains, to determine if active leaks exist. If leaks are found, a qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
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17) The attic space appeared in good form. Insulation value was acceptable, and ventilation proved satisfactory.
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Electric service
Table of contents
Primary service type: Overhead
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 200A
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main electrical shut-off: Recreation Room
Location of SUB panels: None visible
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at top of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Copper
System ground: Cold water supply pipes, confirmed visually
Main disconnect rating (amps): 200A
Branch circuit wiring type: Non-metallic sheathed (Romex), Copper
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
18) Wire exiting electrical boxes of any kind must be attached to the surrounding structure within 12" from the box.
Recommend attaching all loose wires using appropriate wire staples or clamps.
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19) The electrical panels appeared in good form.
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Water heater
Table of contents
Estimated age: 2012
Type: Tank
Energy source: Natural gas
Capacity (in gallons): 50
Manufacturer: John Woods
Model: JW850NVHES02
20) A qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this water heater, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by combustible gas, this servicing should be performed every 3-5 years in the future.
21) Sediment accumulates at the bottom of water heaters, this sediment is sometimes disturbed by gusts of water usage leading to murky water at times.
It is good practice to drain a few gallons of water from the tank twice per year. This can be done by firmly attaching a garden hose to the bib at the side base of the water heater, leading the hose to a drain and opening the drain valve for a few seconds.
Note that this is best performed after the water has not flowed for several hours to ensure all sediment is at the very bottom of the tank. Early morning works for most.

If the heater is natural gas fired, be sure to keep the floor area under and around the heater clean and as dust-free as possible. Dust can get sucked in the air intake port at the very bottom on the heater causing clogs in the burner orifices and reduce the heater's efficiency.
22) No mixing valve was installed for the domestic hot-water supply. This poses a potential scalding hazard.
Water for domestic use should be heated to above 140c to control bacterial presence, but should be reduced thereafter to about 120c.
Recommend having a qualified technician install a mixing valve set to about 120c.
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23) The water heater was operated successfully.
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Estimated age: 2012
Primary heating system energy source: Natural gas
Primary heat system type: Forced air
Distribution system: Sheet metal ducts
Manufacturer: Lennox
Model: EL195UH045
Filter location: In return air duct below furnace
Date the system was last serviced: Unknown
24) Evidence of past minor leaks were found at the furnace cabinet. However, the cabinet's integrity is still maintained. It appears the leak originates from the induction blower housing. Your service technician should repair this condensate leak.
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25) A qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future.
26) Air handler filter(s) should be checked monthly in the future and replaced or washed as necessary.
27) The furnace was operated successfully.
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28) What appears to be asbestos is visible on some ductwork. However, it appears to be intact and not significantly deteriorated. Left undisturbed, it poses no safety hazard. For information on asbestos hazards in the home, visit [url=]
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Plumbing and laundry
Table of contents
Water pressure: Water supplied and regulated municipally
Location of WATER shut off: Cellar
Location of water meter: Same as water shut-off
Location of fuel shut-off: At NG meter and at each NG appliance
Visible fuel storage: No permanent fuel storage vessel was found
Water service: Public
Service pipe material: Copper
Supply pipe material: Copper
Vent pipe material: Copper
Drain pipe material: Plastic, Copper
Waste pipe material: Cast iron
29) The clothes dryer exhaust duct appeared to need cleaning. Significant amounts of lint build up was found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire from decreased air flow. This duct should be cleaned now and annually, or more often if necessary in the future. Some chimney sweeps or heating/cooling duct cleaners perform this service. For more information, visit or
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30) The laundry supply lines are rubber only. These are known to bust from time to time. Client would be wise in replacing these to braided lines to reduce this risk.
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31) The gravity floor drain appeared in serviceable condition. Client should inspect and add water to floor drains periodically, and clean out the drain's p-trap from time to time.
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32) The gravity drain's weeping tile collectors appeared in serviceable condition. Client should inspect these periodically and clean out the drain's p-trap and pit from time to time.
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33) The main water shut-off valve serves as an emergency stop for the pressurized water supply system. An improperly working main valve could lead to worse water damage should a pipe burst for example.
Recommend testing the valve annually by following these steps.
1. Slowly turn the valve handle clockwise until it seats,
2. Open a nearby faucet to observe that no water is available (this may take a minute to depressurize the lines),
3. Once satisfied that the valve actually stops the flow, slowly turn the valve counterclockwise until seated in the fully opened position,
4. "Unseat" the valve by closing it a 1/4 turn.

Should the flow continue at step 2, have a qualified plumber evaluate for repair or replacement of the defective valve.
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34) Stains were found in one or more sections of drain and/or waste pipes. Recommend monitoring these areas in the future, and if leaks are found, have a qualified plumber evaluate and repair as necessary. Alternatively, the client(s) may wish to have a qualified plumber evaluate now and repair if necessary.
35) Drains are provided with "P-traps" (downward u-shaped bend in the pipe below) that are designed to hold a small amount of water in the drain pipe. this water prevents sewer gases from entering the living space from drain pipes.
Note that if the home is to be vacated for more than one week, it is good practice to insert drain plugs into all sink drains so as to prevent water in the traps from evaporation, thus opening the seal.
36) Garden hose bibs installed at the exterior need to be bled (removing water from the exterior portion of the water pipe) prior to cold weather each year. Follow these steps to bleed such bibs;
1) turn the inside shut-off valve OFF,
2) turn the exterior bib valve ON,
3) a small nipple valve is located at the side of most inside shut-off valves. Opening this valve with release the water from the exterior portion of the pipe gravitationally. Use a small container to capture this water as it drips from the nipple valve.
4) once bled, close the nipple valve.

To reinstate use upon warmer weather, simply:
1) turn OFF the exterior bib valve,
2) turn ON the inside shut-off valve.

Note: failing to winterize exterior water lines can result in pipe bursting.
37) Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.
Foundation type: Partially finished basement
Estimated percentage of finished basement area: 60%
Wall insulation material: Fiberglass roll or batt
Pier or support post material: Bearing wall
Beam material: Built up wood
Floor structure above: Solid wood joists
Joist size and spacing: 2 x 10, @ 16" o/c
38) One or more lamp holders are installed less than seven feet from the floor below. This is a safety hazard. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, replacing the lamp holder with a caged fixture or a fixture with a sturdy globe.
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39) Cross-bridging or blocking was never installed at mid-span of the floor system. This was common practice in this era but joists spanning greater than 8 feet should have blocking at mid-span to help stiffen the floor system and increase it's structural integrity.
Recommend repair, especially if rigid flooring material (such as ceramics) will be installed.
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40) The cellar lacks ventilation.
The ideal cellar is well ventilated (especially in cold weather) to prevent moisture accumulation, any water lines should be well insulated (preferably with a heat-trace) and the wall area and door adjoining the living space should be insulated (including the door).
Recommend modifying the cellar to meet these optimal conditions.
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41) The inspector observed much of the basement perimeter to determine if elevated moisture levels were ever present, and found no such evidence.
Client should understand that basements by nature will absorb some water and that this moisture dissipates naturally.
Ensuring that exterior water diversions are in good form will greatly reduce the likelihood of a wet basement.
42) One or more faucets are reverse-plumbed, where hot water flows when what should be cold water.
The standard calls for:
-Two-handled, or single-lever front-facing faucets, Cold on right, Hot on left, and
-Single level side-facing, Cold toward the front, Hot toward the rear.
Surprise scalding can occur otherwise.

Recommend reversing the supply lines below.
43) A range hood fan vents into the kitchen rather than outdoors. Ventilation may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified contractor make modifications as necessary as per standard building practices so the range hood fan vents outdoors.
44) Caulk is missing and/or deteriorated where countertops meet backsplashes in wet areas, such as around sinks. Caulk should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water damage.
45) The Refrigerator and Stove/Oven were operated successfully.
46) The dishwasher had clean dishes within. The inspector does not operate part-cycle in this case. A visual inspection only was performed.
47) Caulking is missing or deteriorated at one or more of the following locations:

-where a tub meets the floor,
-where a drop-in tub meets a deck,
-where protrusions penetrate a tub surround, x
-where a surround meets a tub,
-where a shower base meets the floor,
-where protrusions penetrate a shower surround,
-where the surround meets the shower base,
-where the countertop meets the wall,

Recommend replacing deteriorated caulking, and installing where missing to prevent water damage.
48) One or more toilets are loose. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new wax ring should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.
Interior rooms
Table of contents
49) One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
50) Any and all opening between the ceiling and attic space should be sealed to prevent moist indoor air from entering the attic space. This is a contributing factor in aging shingles, mildew, rot etc.
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51) Screen(s) in one or more windows are torn or have holes in them. Screens should be replaced where necessary.
52) One or more locksets are loose and should be tightened, repaired and or replaced as necessary.
53) Note: In order to prevent cold spots at exterior walls, be sure to keep items and furniture at least 3 inches away from exterior walls.
Placing such items too close to the wall will create conducive conditions for mold and moisture damage. The science behind this is that moisture seeks to condensate and will be attracted to cool spots in the home. This also explains why windows often steam-up during cool weather. And with a steady source of moisture on surfaces, this makes it attractive to mold and other fungal species. Pulling items away from these exterior walls with ensure that heat from the home keeps surfaces dry.
54) Occupants produce moisture; by breathing, perspiring, cooking and bathing/showering.
In the past (pre- 70's) homes were not sealed very well, and air was exchanged rather effectively under normal used. The advancement in windows, vapour barriers, sealants etc. cause homes to trap air within without fresh air being exchanged. An era of what were dubbed "sick homes" arose.
In the late 80's through to the 90's, the building industry recognized this and attempted to correct by various means.
Now, and since 1993, it's been mandatory -in new construction and major retrofits- to provide homes with an air-exchange system. These are sometimes referred to as: Air Exchanger, Venmar, Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV)etc.

In many cases, when few persons occupy a home, such a system is not evidently required.
In older homes that got renovated and better air-sealed, one must look at it as an effectively newer building.

Common signs of excess moisture in a home are generally seen during the cold months and include: sweaty windows, sweaty walls-especially at upper outside corners and closets, frozen exterior doors and windows, and paint blisters under windows -to name most.

The inspector was at this home a mere few hours and cannot logically determine the true needs based on your future occupancy. Therefore, once occupied, if any of the above signs become chronically apparent in cold weather,
client should consider having an HRV system installed at this home to provide occupants with control of air quality and moisture.

As a less-desired alternative -instead of an HRV- client may inquire about an air-draw system powered by a roof turbine and ducted to each floor.
55) 9 x 9" floor tiles are typically known to contain some amounts of asbestos fibre within the backing material.
While their installed presence poses no known concern, removal of the tiles could expose fiber to ambient air.
Recommend leaving these tiles down in future renovations, or, if renovations include disturbance of this flooring material, then professional help may be required.
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56) Some wall and floor surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items. Some areas couldn't be evaluated.
57) Minor cracks were found in walls and ceilings in one or more areas. They do not appear to be a structural concern, but the client(s) may wish to repair these for aesthetic reasons.
Fire Safety
Table of contents
58) One or more entry doors have deadbolts installed with no handle, and require a key to open them from both sides. This can be a safety hazard in the event of a fire when the key is not available. The door cannot be used as an exit then, causing entrapment. Key-only deadbolts should be replaced with deadbolts that have a handle on the inside on entry doors in rooms with no other adequate egress nearby.
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59) Batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit
60) Smoke and CO detection alarms should be tested monthly.
These should also be replaced every 5-7 years to ensure accurate sensitivity.
61) A plug-in type CO detector is installed at this property.
Client should be aware that this unit may be removed when seller moves out; leaving client without such detector.
Technically, this plug-in type unit is not part of "real-estate".
Client should ensure that a CO detector is in operation once client moves in.
62) A combustible gas leak detector was used to determine that no such leaks were present at the time of the inspection.
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This report is intended only as a general guide to help the CLIENT make his/her own evaluation of the overall condition of the home, and is not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase.

The report expresses the opinions of INSPEC Home Inspection Service, based upon visual impressions of the conditions that existed AT THE TIME of the inspection only.

The inspection and the report are not intended to be technically exhaustive, or to imply that every component was inspected, or that every possible defect was discovered.

No disassembly of equipment, opening of walls, moving of furniture, appliances or stored items, or excavation was performed.

All components and conditions, which by nature of their location are concealed, camouflaged or difficult to inspect, are excluded from the report.

* Please Read General Notes Below **


Areas hidden from view by finished walls or stored items cannot be judged and are not part of this inspection. Minor cracks are typical in many foundations and most do not represent a structural problem. If major cracks are present along with bowing, we routinely recommend further evaluation by a qualified structural engineer. All exterior grades should allow for surface and roof water to flow away from the foundation. All concrete floor slabs experience some degree of cracking due to shrinkage in the drying process. In most case instances, floor coverings prevent recognition of cracks or settlement in all but the most severe cases. Where carpeting and other floor coverings are installed, the materials and condition of the flooring underneath cannot be determined.


This is the most significant aspect of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that water and moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters, and for this reason we are particularly diligent when we evaluate site conditions. In fact, we compare all sites to an ideal site condition.
In short, the ideal property will have soils that slope downward away from the house, and the interior floor structure will be at least several inches higher than the exterior grade. Also, the residence will have gutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains or drain pipes with catch basins that carry water away to lower hard surfaces. If a property does not meet this ideal, or if any portion of the interior floor is below the exterior grade, the inspector will not endorse it, even though there may be no evidence of moisture intrusion, and recommend that you consult with a grading and drainage contractor. Moisture intrusion inside homes is best evaluated when it is raining and the lack of evidence during dry weather is not a guaranty that water is not intruding.


The foregoing is an opinion of the general quality and condition of the roofing material. The Inspector cannot and does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or may be subject to leakage. This report is issued in consideration of the foregoing disclaimer. There are many different roof types, and every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance. However, regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing the roof material, and this is equally true of almost all roofs. Material on most pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof, only water-resistant.
There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable. They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty to twenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years, and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced with mastic, which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage.
However, among the pitched roofs, tar & gravel roofs are the least dependable, because the low pitch and the gravel prevent them from draining as readily as other roofs. For this reason, they must be conscientiously maintained. In this respect, the least dependable of all roofs are flat roofs, which are also called built-up roofs. Some flat roofs are adequately sloped toward drains but many are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation. However, the most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced or kept clean, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels. Determining the slope of a flat roof is beyond the scope of this inspection.
What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific
water tests, which are beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installer can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such guarantees. We will examine every roof, evaluate it, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not predict is remaining life expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.


Water quality or hazardous materials (lead) testing is available from local Testing Labs. All underground piping related to water supply, waste, or sprinkler use are excluded from this inspection as these are not visible. Leakage, blockages or corrosion in underground piping cannot be detected by a visual inspection.
Wells are evaluated only visually and are determined to be operational or non-operational. Flow rates, quality, availability and quantity of water source cannot be determined by a visual inspection. Well specialists should be consulted at client’s desire.
Cast iron drain and waste pipes are evidently old and have not been installed in residential buildings since several decades. While many cast iron systems are in good serviceable condition, much of these pipes are known to accumulate an inner lining of debris, which cannot be seen. Draw rates can be slowed due to this. It is recommended that the client seek further evaluation by a qualified pipe inspector in order to determine the condition of such old drain systems.
When water supply is available, the inspector runs water from many source simultaneously so as to pressurize the drain line to observe draw.


Some furnaces are designed in such a way that inspection is almost impossible.
The Inspector will not light (ignite) any extinguished "pilot lights".
System safety devices are NOT tested by the Inspector as this is not within the scope of a visual inspection.
NOTE: Asbestos materials have been commonly used in heating systems. Determining the presence of asbestos can ONLY be preformed by laboratory testing, and is beyond the scope of this inspection. When material suspected to be asbestos is found, a sample is relinquished by the inspector and kept in storage for 12 months in the event the client wishes to have the material tested by a qualified laboratory. Your inspector can make all such arrangements.
Thermostats are not checked for calibration or timed functions. Adequacy, efficiency or even the distribution of air throughout a building cannot be addressed by a visual inspection. Electronic air cleaners, humidifiers and de-humidifiers are beyond the scope of this inspection. Have these systems evaluated by a qualified individual.
Air conditioning systems cannot be operated if outdoor temperature is below or near 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The Inspector does not perform pressure tests on coolant systems; therefore no representation is made regarding coolant charge or line integrity.


Any electrical repairs attempted by anyone other than a licensed electrician should not be attempted. If a house has aluminum wiring, it should have periodic inspections and maintenance by a licensed electrician. Operation of time-clock motors is not verified. Inoperative light fixtures often lack bulbs or have dead bulbs installed. Light bulbs are not changed during the inspection, due to time constraints. Smoke alarms should be installed within 15 feet of all bedroom doors, and at every LEVEL in the home, and tested regularly.
Panel covers that are not easily and safely accessible without a ladder will not be removed. Panels where arcing noises are audible will not be opened.


Your INSPEC inspector is fully certified for MOLD assessment. There are several aspects to initially assessing mold and air quality.
-The presence of the so-called “musty” odor in a home is often linked to mold growth somewhere in the dwelling.
-Visible mold is a clear sign that air quality may be compromised.

As much as the inspector may be able to validate the presence of mold, it is impossible for the inspector to determine its genus or specie. Only through laboratory testing can mold be speciated or identified.

This home inspection does not include any air quality or mold testing services. This is an ancillary service provided by the inspector. If the client wishes to have such testing performed, the inspector will quote this work separately.

Mold testing usually involves the use of specialized collection equipment for collecting air, tape, wall, swab samples for lab testing. This refers to initial testing (determining the quantity and types of mold on the day and hour of the inspection).

****** Saving your reports on your computer *******
Before saving report on your own computer, we recommend creating or choosing a folder on your computer's hard drive specifically for this. Don't save your report to the "My documents" folder, as many other files unrelated to your report will likely end up there.

To save:

1. View the report you want to save in a browser window, and make sure the report has finished loading.
2. Choose "Save As" or "Save Page As" (depending on your browser) from the "File" menu. A save dialog box will appear.
3. Using the "Save in" drop-down control, browse to the folder on your computer to which you back up your reports and select that folder.
4. In the "File name" control, enter the same name that you named your report, followed by ".htm". For example, if you named a report "smith123", enter "smith123.htm".
5. Choose "Web Page, complete" for the "Save as type" option.
6. Click the "Save" button.

When you save a report this way, the web page file ("smith123.htm" in the case above) is saved in the folder that you specified. A sub-folder containing all of the images associated with your report is also created. The sub-folder's name will match the report name, but be appended with "_files" ("smith123_files" in the case above).

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National Association of Certified Home Inspectors