Property Inspection Report

1) Safety, Comment - Structures built prior to 1980 may contain lead-based paint and/or asbestos in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is not included in this inspection. The client should consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement contractors for this type of evaluation. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit:
http://www.epa.gov
http://www.cpsc.gov
http://www.cdc.gov

2) Evaluate, Comment - Based on construction observed, to this property may have been made without the owner having attained permits or inspections from the municipality. Work may have been performed by someone other than a qualified contractor or person. The client should consult with the property owner about this, and if necessary research permits.

At worst case, if substantial work was performed without permits, this knowledge must be disclosed when the building is sold in the future. This can adversely affect future sales. Also, the local municipality could require costly alterations to bring the building into legal compliance or even require that the additions or modifications be removed.

3) - We appreciate the opportunity to conduct this inspection for you! Please carefully read your entire Inspection Report. Call us 631-241-4038 after you have reviewed your report, so we can go over any questions you may have. Remember, when the inspection is completed and the report is delivered, we are still available to you for any questions you may have, throughout the entire closing process.

Properties being inspected do not "Pass" or "Fail. The following report is based on an inspection of the visible portion of the structure; inspection may be limited by vegetation and possessions. Depending upon the age of the property, some items like GFCI outlets may not be installed; this report will focus on safety and function, not current code. This report identifies specific non-code, non-cosmetic concerns that the inspector feels may need further investigation or repair.

For your safety and liability purposes, we recommend that licensed contractors evaluate and repair any critical concerns and defects. Note that this report is a snapshot in time. We recommend that you carry out a final walk-through inspection immediately before closing to check the condition of the property, using this report as a guide. We offer a Final Walk Through Inspection as one of our services. We provide this service at a discounted rate to former clients.

Please note the link for this report expires within 120 days so please print a copy of this report for your records as soon as possible.

4) - The residential dwelling unit appears to be part of a complex that is managed, and maintained by a "Home Owners" or "Condo" association. This inspection is limited to a visual evaluation of the systems and components that are located within the dwelling unit inspected. The current condition of "Common Elements" are excluded from this inspection. Such elements include, but are not limited to:

• The building site condition, structural stability, drainage systems and insulation
• All exterior surfaces, materials and structure
• All roof surfaces, materials and structure
• All attic spaces
• The building foundation, floor substructure and all spaces below, such as basements and/or crawl spaces
• All stairs, landings, porches, hallways, walks and balconies, elevators, utility metering, parking stalls/ports
• All decks, patios, pools, spas, recreational areas/equipment
• All common areas on the property

Any comments regarding these items in this report have been made as a courtesy only. The client should consult with the Home Owner's or Condo Association regarding these items.

5) Safety, Repair/Replace - Some covers were obscured by and couldn't be fully evaluated.

The concrete patio adjacent to side door entrance is severely deteriorated and should be removed and/or replaced. Tripping hazards exist from the displaced sections of concrete.

6) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Most or all of the fencing was damaged or deteriorated. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace or repair sections as necessary.

7) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more trip hazards were found in the driveway due to cracks, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace driveway sections as necessary to eliminate trip hazards.

8) Repair/Replace - One or more fence gates were difficult to open and close and/or difficult to latch. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

9) - Grading and drainage are probably the most significant aspects of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters. Also, there should be gutters and downspouts with splash blocks that discharge away from the building. We have discovered evidence of moisture intrusion inside structures when it was raining that would not have been apparent otherwise.

In addition, we recommend that downspouts do not terminate over paved areas such as walks or driveways, as they can contribute to icy slip and fall hazards in winter.

Minor settlement or hairline cracks in drives, walks or even foundations are normal to properties of any age. They should, however, be monitored for expansion and sealed as necessary.

Vegetation too close to the home can contribute to damage through root damage to the foundation, branches abrading the roof and siding, and leaves providing a pathway for moisture and insects into the home.

Although rails are not required around drop-offs less than 30 inches, consider your own personal needs and those of your family and guests. By today's standards, spindles at decks and steps should be spaced no more than 4 inches apart for the safety of children.

An egress ladder and window should also be installed within the well or basement wall, especially where below-grade bedrooms exist and no basement access door exists.

10) Safety, Major defect, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - No metal liner was installed in the masonry chimney at location #A, and one or more gas appliances use the chimney for a flue. Standard building practices require that a metal liner be installed in masonry chimneys used to vent gas appliances such as furnaces and water heaters. The purpose of the metal liner is to ensure a correct draft, and to prevent damage to the masonry flue from corrosive exhaust deposits and moisture in the exhaust gases. A qualified chimney service contractor should evaluate and install a metal liner as necessary. For more information search for "gas liner" at:
http://www.csia.org/

11) Safety, Repair/Replace - No spark screen or rain cap was installed for the chimney flue at location #. Spark screens prevent the following:

• Fire hazard from wood fire sparks and embers exiting flues
• Wildlife (birds, rodents, raccoons, etc.) entering flues

Rain caps prevent the following:

• Rainwater entering flues and mixing with combustion deposits, creating caustic chemicals which can corrode flues
• Rainwater entering flues and causing damage to masonry from freeze-thaw cycles

A qualified person should install screening and rain caps as per standard building practices.

12) Safety, Comment - Based on the appearance of the siding and the age of this structure, some, most or all of the exterior siding material may contain asbestos. The product is known as asbestos-cement siding. The client should be aware of this when considering repairs to or replacement of this siding, and consult with qualified testing labs and/or abatement contractors as necessary. For more information on asbestos in the home, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/453.html

13) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Monitor - The masonry chimney crown at location #A was cracked. The crown is meant to keep water off of the chimney structure. The chimney can be damaged by wet masonry going through freeze-thaw cycles. A properly constructed chimney crown should:

• Be constructed using either pre-cast concrete slabs, cast-in-place steel reinforced concrete, solid stone, or metal
• Be sloped down from the flue a minimum of 3 inches of fall per foot of run
• Extend a minimum of 2-1/2 inches beyond the face of the chimney on all sides
• Not directly contact the flue liner (if installed), and this gap should be filled with flexible caulk
• Have flashing installed between the bottom of the crown and the top of the brick chimney

A qualified chimney service contractor or mason should evaluate and repair or replace the crown as necessary.

14) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Extensions such as splash blocks or drain pipes for some downspouts were missing. Water may accumulate around the building foundation as a result. A qualified person should evaluate and repair, replace or install as necessary

15) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate, Comment - There are several venting systems from th basement venting below the kitchen casement window that do not appear to be in use. these openings shown in the picture below should be evaluated to make sure the systems are no longer in use. if not in use they should be capped off to avoid any heat loss.

16) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - Exterior stairs were deteriorated. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.

Both the front and side door concrete stairs showed cracked concrete on the stairs and/or along the sides. These conditions should be repaired to prevent further deterioration from trapped water and freeze thaw cycles.

17) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were loose. This is a safety hazard. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary and as per standard building practices.

The left front door handrail was loose and should be repaired by a qualified person.

18) Repair/Maintain, Monitor, Comment - Some exterior wall sections were obscured by vegetation and couldn't be fully evaluated.

Vegetation should be trimmed to provide a space of approximately 12 inches between the vegetation and the walls of the structure.

19) Repair/Maintain - Caulk was deteriorated in some areas. For example, around windows, around doors and/or at siding-trim junctions. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/_docs/FPL_Caulking_Ins_Outs.pdf

20) Comment - It should be noted that there were no exterior electrical outlets on the home. The client should consider adding a few to accommodate future outdoor activities.

21) - Certain asbestos-cement shingles were cracked and/or displaced. These sections need to be corrected.

22) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate, Monitor - One or more minor exterior & interior cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitoring them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including hydraulic cement, resilient caulks and epoxy sealants.

23) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate, Comment - Some foundation and/or footings sections were obscured by vegetation and couldn't be fully evaluated.

The vegetation should be pruned back so that these areas can be monitored.

24) Monitor, Comment - Signs of efflorescence found. Efflorescence is white chaulk-like coating found on concrete caused by water picking up salts as it migrates through concrete, then leaving the salt on the surface as it evaporates. This condition was observed on the interior of the concrete foundation.

25) Comment - Foundation
A foundation provides a stable, rigid base to support a home. The foundation supports the frame and structure and protects it from moisture and contact with the soil. The foundation must rest on firm soil and be protected from water entry or excessive dampness. The majority of homes are built on foundations that form a crawl space or full basement. The basement rests on a footing that supports the home's weight. Foundation walls are constructed of brick, concrete block, poured concrete, clay tile, stone, or similar materials. The basement floor usually consists of poured concrete. Crawl spaces can either have a dirt or concrete floor.

Full-depth basements are the most complicated type of foundation because of potential water problems and the pressure of soil outside the basement walls. While full-depth basements require the most maintenance, crawl spaces and slab foundations must also be protected from excessive moisture.

Proper grading around the house is your best protection against seepage into the basement that may cause expensive damage. When a home is built, workers dig the excavation several feet larger than the basement walls to allow for construction clearances. At the base of the hole, near the footing, they install a drain tile system and cover it with a small amount of gravel. They also apply a damp-proof coating to the walls and the hole is filled. Most of the hole around the basement is filled with soil from the site. This may contain gravel, rock, wood, paper, and unfortunately almost anything no longer useful to home construction. For the next 20 years, this soil and "stuff" settles around your basement walls. It settles quickly for the first few years and more slowly after that.

To divert surface water the soil should pitch away from the home with a 1 inch pitch per foot for about 6 feet beyond the foundation. All downspouts from the roof drainage system should be at least 3 feet away from the foundation. Open window wells should have either grates or, preferably, a weatherproof shield over them. This will keep the rain and snow from building up inside the well and possibly leaking into the home.

26) Comment - Many sections of the floor substructure were not fully evaluated due lack of access from ceiling types located in the basement..

27) Comment - All concrete slab floor sections were obscured by flooring and couldn't be fully evaluated.

28) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - electric receptacles had reverse-polarity wiring, where the hot and neutral wires are reversed. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

29) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more electric receptacles at the laundry room and/or basement had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/nec/pdf/GFCI_requirement_page2.pdf

30) Safety, Evaluate, Comment - Some ceiling areas in this structure had tiles possibly installed prior to 1980. This material may contain asbestos, which is a known carcinogen and poses a health hazard. Laws were passed in the United States in 1978 prohibiting use of asbestos in residential structures, but stocks of existing materials have been known to be used for some time thereafter. The client may wish to have this ceiling material tested by a qualified lab to determine if it does contain asbestos.

In most cases, when the material is intact and in good condition, keeping it encapsulated with paint and not disturbing it may reduce or effectively eliminate the health hazard. If the client wishes to remove the material, or plans to disturb it through remodeling, they should have it tested by a qualified lab and/or consult with a qualified industrial hygienist or asbestos abatement specialist. For more information, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/453.html

31) Maintain, Monitor, Comment - Wood paneling or any material that will absorb water is not a good product to use in a basement, which tends to be moist. Excess water will result in mold and mildew. Use a dehumidifier to remove excess water.

32) Maintain, Monitor, Comment - Dampness noted - Any material that will absorb water is not a good product to use in a basement, which tends to be moist. Mold and/or mildew can result from this moisture condition. Recommend using a dehumidifier to remove excess water.

33) Evaluate, Monitor, Comment - Signs of efflorescence found. Efflorescence is white chaulk-like coating found on concrete caused by water picking up salts as it migrates through concrete, then leaving the salt on the surface as it evaporates.

34) Comment - If any part of basement area is used as a bedroom at least 1 window should be egress. The windows in basement do not qualify as Egress size (5.7 sq. ft, aprox. size 29 inches by 41 inches). Egress is a size that is deemed appropriate for the average person to use as a hatch to climb through. We recommend installing at least 1 egress window in any finished basement with a bedroom.

35) - The basement windows are old and do not offer any thermopane qualities. As the basement is heated, replacement of these windows will make the home more energy efficient.

36) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Some "rubber boot" flashings were deteriorated. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified contractor should replace flashings where necessary.

The boot flashing over the electrical service post is in poor condition and should be replaced by qualified person.

37) Repair/Maintain, Maintain, Comment - The ceiling insulation's depth (R rating) was significantly less than what's recommended for this area. Recommend having a qualified contractor install additional insulation as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency. For more information, visit:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html

38) Monitor, Comment - The roofing material appeared weathered and aged. This condition requires monitoring and/or maintenance repairs.

39) - Roofing
All roofs have structural framing of joists or trusses that support a wood deck that is either plywood, solid 3/4 inch wood planking or oriented strand board. In general, the two basic styles are sloped and low-sloped (or flat) roofs.
Asphalt fiberglass shingles (3-tab or architectural) are the most common type of sloped roofing material. A typical asphalt shingle can last from 15-40 years. Asphalt fiberglass shingles come in many shapes and sizes. Other materials used for sloped roofs include wood shakes, wood shingles, cement asbestos, tile, slate, metal, and cement tile.

Low-slope or flat roofs require a special roofing material to seal against moisture. Since the slope is low, water does not easily run from the surface. Materials used include single-ply rubber, roll roofing, torch down (modified bitumen), metal, and built-up roofing. On occasion it may be acceptable to use a sloped shingle on a flat roof if an ice membrane is used. A flat roof should have a slight slope to prevent puddling of water. Flat roof material is not made to walk on.

Roof Ventilation
Ventilation is necessary to remove moisture from the attic. This is achieved through a various combinations of roof vents, soffit vents, gable wall vents, ridge vents, static vents, and ventilation fans. Good attic ventilation lowers air conditioning costs. Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans are needed to remove excessive moisture, but they must be routed to the exterior and not into the attic. Excessive moisture causes mildew and mold.

Gutters and Downspouts
When it rains, your roof sheds a tremendous quantity of water that must be moved away from the foundation to protect the basement or crawlspace. Always have downspouts drain at least 3 feet away from the foundation. Always make sure your gutters are cleaned and flowing correctly. If downspouts are draining underground always monitor during heavy rain to make sure there is no back up of water.

Adequate attic ventilation, solar / wind exposure, and organic debris all affect the life expectancy of a roof (see www.gaf.com for roof info).  Always ask the seller about the age and history of the roof.  Metal roofs in snow areas often do not have gutters and downspouts, as there is a concern that snow or ice cascading off the roof may tear gutters from the house.  Likewise, be advised that such cascading may cause personal injury or even death.  If this house has a metal roof, consult with qualified roofers or contractors regarding the advisability of installing a damming feature which may limit the size and amount of snow / ice sliding from the roof.  

40) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more electric receptacles at the garage had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/nec/pdf/GFCI_requirement_page2.pdf

41) Safety, Repair/Replace - No "photo eye" sensors were installed for one or more vehicle door's electric door opener. They've been required on all automatic door openers since 1993 and improve safety by triggering the vehicle door's auto-reverse feature without need for the door to come in contact with the object, person or animal that's preventing it from closing. Recommend considering having a qualified contractor install these devices for improved safety. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html
http://www.ohdstl.com/safety.html

42) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - One or more automatic door openers were installed in a substandard way. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace opener(s) as necessary.

43) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate, Comment - One or more automatic vehicle door openers couldn't be fully evaluated because they were disconnected.

44) Comment - Garage doors are made of hundreds of possible combinations of materials, rollers, tracks, operators, springs, locks, and other options. Garage doors are normally found to be made of either wood, steel or plastic. Most newer doors have some type of insulation within the door. Wooden garage doors need to be properly maintained and sealed because water causes damage to wood. The bottom of the garage door will come in contact with water the most often and needs to be water resistance. The bottom of a garage door should have a vinyl or rubber weatherstripping that comes in contact with the ground.

Garage openers should be equipped with a force reversal mechanism as well as a laser mechanism that will not allow the door to close if the laser beam is broken. The garage door should open and close freely and not get hung up.
If there is a door from the garage to the inside of the house it should be fire rated, self-closing, and should open to the inside of the house.
Electric outlets in a garage should have a GFCI circuit.

45) Safety, Major defect, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Panel #B used older style, screw-in fuses. This type of fuse allows anyone to install incorrectly rated fuses, possibly resulting in damage to wiring. Based on the age and/or appearance of the panel(s) using fuses, and/or deterioration of the panels or components inside, recommend having a qualified electrician replace this panel with a modern panel and circuit breakers. If the panel isn't replaced, then a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

46) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Wire splices were exposed due to not being contained in a covered junction box. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install securely mounted junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.

47) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Two-pronged electric receptacles rather than three-pronged, grounded receptacles were installed in bedroom areas. They are considered to be unsafe by today's standards and limit the ability to use appliances that require a ground in these rooms. Examples of appliances that require grounded receptacles include:

• Computer hardware
• Refrigerators
• Freezers
• Air conditioners
• Clothes washers
• Clothes dryers
• Dishwashers
• Kitchen food waste disposers
• Information technology equipment
• Sump pumps
• Electrical aquarium equipment
• Hand-held motor-operated tools
• Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
• Light industrial motor-operated tools
• Hedge clippers
• Lawn mowers

This list is not exhaustive. A qualified electrician should evaluate and install grounded receptacles as per the client's needs and standard building practices.

48) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Some open ground, three-pronged electric receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing receptacles or correcting wiring circuits.

Grounding type receptacles began being required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and the presence of 2-pronged receptacles in some areas of this structure, an acceptable repair may be to simply replace the ungrounded 3-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles. However the following appliances require grounding type receptacles:

• Computer hardware
• Refrigerators
• Freezers
• Air conditioners
• Clothes washers
• Clothes dryers
• Dishwashers
• Kitchen food waste disposers
• Information technology equipment
• Sump pumps
• Electrical aquarium equipment
• Hand-held motor-operated tools
• Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
• Light industrial motor-operated tools
• Hedge clippers
• Lawn mowers

This list is not exhaustive. Grounded circuits and receptacles should be installed in locations where such appliances will be used.

49) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more electric receptacles at the kitchen, bathroom(s), laundry room, garage, exterior and/or basement had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/nec/pdf/GFCI_requirement_page2.pdf

50) Safety, Repair/Replace - This property had one or more fuel burning appliances and/or an attached garage, and no carbon monoxide detectors were visible. This is a safety hazard. Recommend installing one or more carbon monoxide detectors as necessary and as per the manufacturer's instructions. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html

51) Safety, Evaluate - Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the mid 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Centigrade. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950 may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Centigrade. Connecting older, 60 degree-rated wiring to such newer fixtures is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of fire. Repairs for such conditions often involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90 degree-rated wire. This often requires installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring.

It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if such incompatible components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware that this safety hazard may be present in this building. Recommend consulting with the property owner to determine if and when newer fixtures were installed, and/or to have a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as per standard building practices.

52) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Monitor, Comment - The electric service to this property appeared to be rated at substantially less than 200 amps, and may be inadequate for the client's needs. Recommend consulting with a qualified electrician about upgrading to a 200 amp service.

53) Comment - The electrical supply to your home begins outside, either from your electric company's overhead or underground line. The main electric panel, which is usually located in the basement or garage, is divided into circuits through individual breakers or fuses and is fed through the wiring system, outlets and cords to various electrical devices.
Any home that has a Bulldog Pushmatic, Zinsco, Sylvania Zinsco or Federal Pacific main electric panel should have it evaluated by a licensed electrician, as these are older types of panels and breakers that have been known to overheat and cause house fires.
Most modern homes have 220-volt systems with a minimum of 100 amps of power. Older houses may have fuses and can have 60 amp systems. Main panels can have sub-panels that are fed by the main panel. These sub-panels can range in size from 30 amps on up. On most main panels you will find one breaker marked "main." This breaker will be near the top of the box and will be 100, 150, or 200 amp. If you switch this breaker off, all power in your home will be disconnected.
Distribution wiring is what routes electrical power to lights, outlets and appliances. Most of this wiring is buried in walls and attics, but some will be visible near the main service panel and in basements and crawl spaces. Since the 1970's, plastic shielded wiring (Romex is a common brand name) has been used in residential construction. Older homes may have cloth shielded wiring, BX or flexible metal-shielded wiring, or even conduit (metal pipe). The composition of the wire used is normally copper but during the 1950's a tin coating was used for a short period of time to cover the copper and in the 1970's solid 1 strand aluminum was briefly used. Any type of single strand aluminum wiring has been proven to be a fire hazard and if found will be noted on our report and should be evaluated by a licensed electrician.
A ground fault circuit interrupter GFCI is a valuable safety device that should be installed in bathrooms, kitchens, sink locations, unfinished basements, laundry rooms, garages and exterior outlets. GFCI outlets or circuits provide a high level of safety against shock. A tiny imbalance in the power and neutral lines will trip a GFCI meaning that the electric is instantly shut off. The imbalance indicates potential current leakage that could deliver a shock.
Some baths may have non-GFCI outlets which are protected by a GFCI outlet in a remote area (garage, another bath, etc.). 
Electricity requires at least 2 wires: it pushes through the live or positive wire (usually black in color) and returns through the neutral wire (usually white in color). This is why all electrical devices have plugs with at least two prongs. Modern systems add a third (ground) wire for safety.
Also, note that most electricians agree that smoke detectors are good for about 5 years, and the breakers in your panel box have an expected life of about 20 years.  Therefore, if this home was built before 1991, consider having the panel box and breakers evaluated by a licensed electrician, as an overheated breaker can result in a structural fire.  
If your home does not have a carbon monoxide detector, it is now required to have them in New York State, we recommend making that investment.

54) Safety, Comment - Copper water supply pipes in buildings built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions such as these may be advised:

• Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
• Install appropriate filters at points of use.
• Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
• Use bottled or distilled water.
• Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
• Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary.

For more information visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5056.html
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html

55) Safety, Comment - The client was advised by the sellers agent that the house originally was heated by an oil fired hot air furnace and then converted to gas. The client was advised that the oil tank was legally abandoned. If the oil tank(s) has been removed and/or legally decommissioned, the client should obtain the certificate(s) for his files prior to closing.

56) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Monitor - Stains were found in one or more sections of waste lines. This may indicate that past leaks have occurred. Recommend consulting with the property owner about this, and either monitoring these areas in the future for leaks or having a qualified plumber evaluate and repair as necessary.

57) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Moderate corrosion was found in some water supply valves. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.

58) Safety, Repair/Replace - No drain line was installed for the temperature-pressure relief valve. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of scalding if someone is standing next to the water heater when the valve opens. A qualified plumber should install a drain line as per standard building practices. For example, extending to 6 inches from the floor, or routed so as to drain outside.

59) - A water heating system for drinking and bathing water can come in many shapes and sizes. The most conventional type of water heating system is the stand alone type that includes its own tank and heating system. This type of system can use either oil, natural gas, propane or electric to heat water.

Another type of water heating system found is a tankless system where the water is heated through the heating system, in most cases this heating system is a hot water or hydronic heating system. One drawback to this type of system is that if the home needs a large amount of hot water at a specific time this system may not be able to keep up with the demand.

There are also other combination systems available, for example; there is a system available where the water is heated through the heating system but stored in a separate tank.

60) - The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning/cooling system (often referred to as HVAC) is the climate control system for the structure. The goal of these systems is to keep the occupants at a comfortable level while maintaining indoor air quality, ventilation while keeping maintenance costs at a minimum. The HVAC system is usually powered by electricity and/or natural gas, but can also be powered by other sources such as butane, oil, propane, solar panels, or wood.

Most homes are heated with either a warm air furnace that uses ducts and ceiling/wall registers or a hydronic (warm water) system that uses radiators, baseboard (convector) elements, or heating pipes buried in walls or floors.

61) Comment - The estimated useful life for most kitchen appliances is 10 to 15 years. One or more appliances (dishwasher) appeared to be near, at or beyond their service life. Recommend budgeting for replacements in the near future.

62) - The kitchen is used for food preparation and often for entertainment. Kitchens typically include a stove, dishwasher, sink and other appliances. We try to test all appliances but in some cases (dishes in the dishwasher, food in the oven, etc.) we are not able to.
We test the cabinets to make sure they operate correctly as well as note the condition of the counter top. We check for plumbing leaks in the sink as well as dishwasher. The electric outlets near the sink should all have a GFCI circuit.

63) Safety, Repair/Replace - The clothes dryer was equipped with a vinyl, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

64) Major defect, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Major moisture damage was found in areas by the shower at location #A. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary.

This shower stall has significant wall damage from water leaking through the grout or severe usage. A complete evaluation was not possible as the shower head was missing and the line capped.

65) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The sink drain stopper mechanism at location #A and B was inoperable and/or difficult to operate. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.

66) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Moderate deterioration was found at the bathtub at location #B. The client(s) should consider replacing the bathtub.

67) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The bathtub drain stopper mechanism at location #B was inoperable. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.

68) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The bathroom with a shower at location #B didn't have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture accumulation will occur and may damage the structure. Even if the bathroom has a window that opens, it likely does not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when the window is closed. A qualified contractor should install exhaust fans as per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers.

69) Repair/Replace - Hardware such as hinges, latches or pulls were loose and/or missing at one or more cabinets at location #B. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

A pull knob was missing in the 1st floor sink cabinet.

70) Repair/Replace - The shower head at location #A was missing. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.

71) Repair/Maintain - Caulk around the tub's plumbing fixtures (faucets, spouts, escutcheon plates, etc.) at location #B was deteriorated. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

72) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Screens in some windows are damaged. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.

73) Evaluate, Monitor, Comment - Many windows used single-pane glass. Single-pane windows are one of the largest sources of heat loss in winter and heat gain in the summer due to their low insulating ability and high air leakage rates. They're estimated to be responsible for 25 to 50 percent of the energy used to heat and cool homes. The client should consider replacing single-pane windows with new, multi-pane windows.

The single pane windows did have storm windows but the system will not be energy efficient.

74) Comment - The structural frame of the home rests on the foundation walls and holds up the floors, interior walls, and roof. Most homes in the US are framed with wood, but a few are built with a brick or block support. Recently homes are starting to be framed with metal. Once the frame and structure are properly designed and installed, little maintenance is needed except to protect the structure from water and insects.

The exterior walls are framed to support the structure, allow for window and door openings, and protect the structure from the elements. Most exterior walls are framed with 2 by 4 studs spaced 16 inches on center. The studs are braced in the corners and doubled around window and door openings. Special "headers" are placed over openings to support the weight above the opening. Exterior wall framing allows space for electrical, cable, telephone, heat distribution components and plumbing supply and waste lines. The framing also supports exterior siding or cladding and includes space for insulation.

Interior areas consist of bedrooms, baths, kitchen, laundry, hallways, foyer, and other open areas.   All exposed walls, ceilings and floors will be inspected.  Doors and windows will also be investigated for damage and normal operation. Although excluded from inspection requirements, we will inform you of obvious broken gas seals in windows.  Please realize that they are not always visible, due to temperature, humidity, window coverings, light source, etc. Your inspection will report visible damage, wear and tear, and moisture problems if seen. Personal items in the structure may prevent the inspector from viewing all areas, as the inspector will not move personal items.

An inspection does not include the identification of, or research for, appliances and other items that may have been recalled or have had a consumer safety alert issued about it. Any comments made in the report are regarding well known notices and are provided as a courtesy only. Product recalls and consumer product safety alerts are added almost daily by the Consumer Product Safety Commission. We recommend visiting the following Internet site if recalls are a concern to you: http://www.cpsc.gov.

75) - There are termite traps located along some of the perimeter points around the home. The selling agent stated they are active baited locations. The client should get documented verification of this statement as well as to ask the company about whether there had been a previous infestation of termites or were the traps a preventative measure.