8) Vinyl exterior: Vinyl (siding, panels, trim, soffit, etc.) has been manufactured for many years and the long-term durability of exterior materials is dependent on installation details, flashing-caulking and overall maintenance and care. The vinyl flashings, typically installed with the siding, obscure the view of transitions, joints, connections or metal flashings that might be present. Therefore, the sufficiency of flashings cannot be fully assessed. Vinyl material is subject to mechanical damage and melting, e.g., careless use of lawnmowers, children throwing baseballs, hot barbecues, etc. Limitation: Since vinyl becomes brittle over time, and might crack if subjected to prying, inspector does not pull on the material in order to report on the type/condition of any wraps or surfaces under siding.

At this home, the vinyl siding and flashing components appeared to be intact (with some localized damage), with the exception of missing flashings around the crawlspace/foundation vents. Minimally, I recommend monitoring crawlspace vent openings, as damage occurs, qualified party to repair replace as necessary. Ideally, qualified contractor would install vinyl flashing components around vents openings to prevent premature deterioration. As to the extent of damage noted at time of inspection; there are a fair number of localized mechanical damaged areas noted at the lower portions of the siding, typically due to lawnmower and/or weed-eater damage. For repairs or replacement of damaged areas, I recommend consulting with a general contractor well-versed in vinyl siding applications.

Despite vinyl having been originally promoted as a product that does not require paint, specialized paint is available for refinishing vinyl siding. Faded and sunlight impacted materials, if intact and undamaged, can be refinished. However, if vinyl is broken or melted, replace those materials prior to painting. Additional information on cleaning and painting vinyl materials is available at this link: http://goo.gl/fN4DwU

Photos below are examples of damaged vinyl siding at the structure:

9) At the front step, uniformity of risers and/or riser height, is not in accordance with current safety standards due to settlement at the walkway. To prevent tripping falls, steps should not vary, one from another, by MORE THAN 3/8" and maximum riser height is 7 3/4".

The sidewalk at the front landing has settled towards the structure resulting in a large gap and variations in height, may be tripping hazards. At client's discretion, consult with a flat work-paving contractor. Over time, most paved surfaces will settle and develop cracks. Depending on exposure and water penetration, it could become necessary to eventually replace materials. Cracks can often be sealed to protect against the negative effects of moisture. This online video, produced by a manufacturer of concrete sealant products, describes a method of waterproofing cracks in flat surface paving: https://youtu.be/4o1IZG-pVk0

If concerned, repair or replace sloped/settled walkway and have steps modified as necessary, with work to be completed by a general contractor. Craftsmanship to comply with prevailing safety guidelines and good building practices.

10) The faucet/hose bibb at the east side of the home leaked during a standard water pressure test. This procedure puts back pressure on a faucet, not unlike having a nozzle in the "off" position on a hose. I suggest tightening the bonnet (looks like a nut) at the valve stem and/or tightening or replacing the vacuum breaker. If any complications arise that go beyond the scope of routine maintenance, consult with a plumber. Based on appearance, the device(s) is probably of frost-free design (lesser likelihood of seasonal freezing). Also, backflow prevention was apparent, which decreases the risk of gray water entering the potable water system.

The hose bib at the west side of the home was not fully evaluated due to a damaged handle, faucet would not operate in its current condition. I recommend further review: Install new handles as necessary. All work to be performed by qualified party.

If hoses are left on faucets in winter, or if the piping runs through unheated space, even frost-free hose bibbs and pipes are susceptible to seasonal freezing. For additional information on hose bibb leaks, follow this link: http://goo.gl/2WQ9OJ

An informative article on various types of frost-free faucets and backflow prevention, is available here: http://goo.gl/B6nMVc

11) Perimeter grading of the ground slopes toward the structure. Sloped terrain, depending on soil conditions, can contribute to poor drainage and runoff water accumulating around a foundation or seepage into substructure areas. Grade soil, as might be necessary, at a slope ratio of 1" per foot for a minimum 6 ft out from the building -- so runoff water is directed away from the structure. Any work to be completed by qualified party. In a related matter, establish and maintain, as minimums, 4" to 6" of clearance between earth and siding products.


The negative slope is most notable at the West and East sides of the structure.

12) The fence and gate at the southwest corner was leaning significantly. I recommend qualified party repair as necessary. Evaluating property offenses is beyond the scope of a standard inspection. When repairs are performed at fences, any wood rot that is located at time of repairs should be replaced with the sound wood.

13) Windows: windows were operated and noted to be functional at time of inspection. No window screens were installed. Windows may not provide ventilation during months when insects are active. Windows, access to and view, may be obstructed by belongings, window coverings, breakables, height, etc. Inspector evaluates a number of windows, not necessarily every window, and looks for discernibly cloudy double pane glazing. Sometimes, fog can be elusive and less noticeable, depending on temperature, humidity, sunlight, shade and cleanliness of panes. I do not provide an inclusive list of potentially fogged or compromised windows. Client(s) should verify personal satisfaction with windows. If need be, clean glass prior to making a definitive determination. Any repairs should to be completed by qualified contractor.


Since materials and design elements are obscured from view by trim, siding, etc., it is usually not possible to assess the sufficiency of all flashings, caulking or flanges at window or door installations.

18) Garage/laundry appliances: The laundry area is in the garage. To reduce the chances of appliances inadvertently igniting flammable gasoline vapors that might accumulate near the garage floor, certain electro-mechanical devices and gas appliances, electrical receptacles, appliance motors, etc., should be raised a minimum of 18" over the floor. Many newer dryers and washing machines can be placed at floor level, depending on design type and manufacturer specifications. I recommend further review: prior to purchase, study the laundry equipment manuals or search online, to determine appliance suitability for the application, or consult with appliance installation-repair professional. If modifications or repairs are necessary, any work should be completed by qualified professional.

Risk is appliance's ignition source lighting flammable gasoline vapors. Applies to many gas and electric dryers.

22) Exposed lumber: There are missing, or out of place, flashings over the rafter tails/fascia up at the roofline. This condition can contribute to wood decay fungi (rot). Rot was present at some rafter tails, most notably at the south gable. I recommend further evaluation: Qualified general contractor or roofer to correct/repair by removing any deteriorated wood and replacing it with sound materials. On a case by case basis, install or improve upon flashings -- so they direct runoff water from the roof over the rafter tails or fascia. Flashings, typically cut from shingles or metal, should extend approximately 2" over any tails. While onsite, professional to offer suggestions as to other beneficial repairs or upgrades. A photo of two rafters, one with a flashing and the other without, may be accessed at this link: http://goo.gl/XV9z0F

To see an online video, produced by King of the House Inc. on the topic of rot, please follow this link: http://youtu.be/6p8q1Pa1H_U

23) Downspout is detached at the southeast corner. Uncontrolled water runoff is conducive to the onset of rot or attracting other wood destroying organisms. Upgrade/repair downspouts and gutters if/as required. If necessary, consult with a gutter and downspout installation contractor.

34) Receptacles (outlets) are missing cover plates in the garage. Therefore, exposed connections are easily accessible. As necessary onsite, install cover plates. Any work to be performed by qualified party.

40) Furnace service/heating contractor review: The furnace was turned on and it was functional. The last service date, based on the service label was 2018 and the furnace, based on the view inside, would benefit from cleaning and service. Forced-air furnaces and associated components, according to manufacturers' estimates, have a life expectancy of 15-20 years. Actual lifespan may vary. Furnaces should be professionally cleaned and serviced annually to extend appliance life and to assure ongoing safety. I recommend further evaluation and service by an HVAC contractor: Professional review to include air-handler, airflow-balance, ducts, supply registers, connections, heat exchanger, combustible clearances and combustion air, vent for the length of its run, cleaning and, as applicable, gas piping, valves, carbon monoxide (CO) testing, condensate pump and drain line. A specialist could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a home inspection. When onsite, HVAC technician to explain routine maintenance procedures such as how to replace or clean filters. A heating contractor produced online video, descriptive of the procedures customarily included as part of HVAC service at a gas furnace, is available at this link: https://youtu.be/YNxjChOvEME

46) The hot water temperature at fixtures reads as a minimum of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The risk of scalding increases when temperature is set higher than 120°F I recommend adjusting/limiting the water temperature at fixtures to 120°F. Water temperature is regulated by thermostatic controls at/inside water heaters. Temperature may vary throughout the day, depending on when the appliance last heated water. Even though temperature at fixtures should be limited to 120°F, maintaining a higher tank temperature reduces the probability of bacterial growth inside the water heater. Therefore, a preferred means of lowering temperature involves installing a thermal mixing valve: Water at fixtures is restricted to 120°F, yet water in the tank will maintain a temperature of 130-140°F At client’s discretion, qualified party to adjust thermostat(s) or have a plumber install thermal mixing valve. To obtain more information on hot water safety, please visit: http://goo.gl/IS7knJ

An article, descriptive of thermal mixing valves, is available at this link: http://goo.gl/sqzs3t

47) The water heater was manufactured in 2003. The anticipated useful life for a tank water heater, according to manufacturers' estimates, is 8 to 12 years. Actual lifespan will vary and, depending on corrosivity of water and other difficult to predict factors, electric tanks might outlast gas-fired tanks. Regardless, future life expectancy of this appliance and associated components cannot be determined. An aging water heater may fail unexpectedly, which can result in leakage and insufficient, or no, hot water. Due to the complications involved in dealing with a failed or leaking water heater, client(s) should consider contractor replacement of the appliance prior to more significant problems becoming apparent.

49) The exterior dryer hood contains an accumulation of lint. As the problem worsens, a blockage could lead to fire, or damage the thermal devices inside the dryer. I recommend cleaning the dryer hood, and associated ducting, now and as necessary in the future. Work to be completed by qualified party. To obtain additional information on dryers and ducting, please visit: http://goo.gl/B2i6QT

55) Signs of past or present rodent activity were noted in the form of odors, droppings, seed shells, traps and/or poison, dead rodents. Often it is not possible to determine the current status of pests. The most obvious intrusion point noted at time inspection would be the gap at the top of the crawlspace access. In some instances, traps and bait indicate that occupants are trying to prevent infestations. At this home I noted that some poison bait/poison blocks were improperly used in the crawlspace, i.e. not contained in a sufficient bait box. Rodents are commonly seen, often moving around from one location to another, and they can cause extensive damage. Mice and rats are able to pass through small (3/4" to 1") openings. If pests gain access to one area, they are likely to be active at other locations as well. I recommend further evaluation, consulting with a pest management professional. See additional recommendations in the "General Information" report section.

As a result of the apparent rodent infestation, some of the underfloor insulation has fallen down or it is damaged/missing. As a guideline, based on today's standards, underfloor insulation at floors above unheated space is rated at R-30 or better. I recommend further review and appropriate repairs: Install/re-install, or custom fit, insulation. Insulation should be tight to the underside of the floor above and the vapor barrier paper backing, on most modern batt insulation, is designed to face the warm side. Upside down insulation can result in moisture retention. All work to be completed by qualified professional. Underfloor insulation, when present, obscures the view including at structural lumber such as subfloor/floor, sill plate, joists, rim joist, etc. Inspectors do not pull down or move insulation; therefore, some areas are excluded from the inspection.

56) Some crawl space vents are blocked, obscured by insulation -- venting impeded on the inside -- because underfloor insulation has been pushed-up against the screens. I recommend, on a case by case basis, adjusting/trimming insulation so all vents are fully open. Any work to be completed by qualified party.

64) The range hood exhaust fan was turned on. Exhaust termination point was not located, suspected to terminate in the wall behind appliance -- not vented outdoors through the roof or the exterior wall. When operating, a gas range produces combustion gases-carbon monoxide. Therefore, if a gas range is present, the fan should be run whenever the range is in use. With a gas range, or any range, it is best to direct moisture produced during cooking and, as applicable, by-products of combustion to the outdoors. Regardless of the energy source of the range, I recommend that clients plan to modify the arrangement: duct the range hood to the outdoors. Any work, and further review, to be completed by qualified party.

Photos below are infrared examples of this determination. There was no exterior vent cover noted associated with the kitchen exhaust and no recirculating error was noted at the interior from the fan grill. Thermal imaging indicated elevated heat in the wall cavity when fan was operated with a cooktop burner on:

65) The range/cooktop is gas. Main burners heated, as did the oven and broiler. However, the range tipped forward when pressure was applied. This is a safety concern, especially so for children, who might pull on or climb on the range. I recommend further review and appropriate repair: Install a standard anti-tip bracket to better secure the range. All work to be completed by qualified appliance installation-repair professional.

Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances meets with personal expectations.

Inspector does not verify internal temperatures, the operation of timers, clocks, convection ovens, warmer burners or drawers, appliance lights, or seal/fit of gaskets. Due to potential pitfalls, I do not move appliances, remove drawers to view connections, gas valves, brackets, mounting hardware, etc. Upon taking occupancy, clients are encouraged to move appliances to obtain better access and view. If any issues are discovered, consult with knowledgeable repair persons.

66) Interior (recommendations, general information and limitations): The inspector views walls, ceilings, floors and assesses the condition of a representative number of windows, doors, cabinets, and electrical components. When belongings are present, access to or the view of numerous areas might be obstructed by appliances, furniture, window coverings and breakables. Inspector does not move appliances or furniture. After personal items have been removed, problems that were not identified at the time of the inspection might become apparent. I am focusing on significant concerns and do not dwell on cosmetic matters that the discerning purchaser is probably already aware of such as nail-pops, scuff marks, blemishes indications of past wear and use, countertops, cupboards and drawers, housekeeping, or subtle household odors. With the exception of new construction, most residences will display signs of previous occupancy. Regardless of the age and condition of a property, often individuals plan to renovate. Design and general appearance of interior decor are matters of personal taste. Therefore, it is client's responsibility to ascertain that interior features -- floor coverings, wall or ceiling surfaces, paint, cabinetry, appliances, etc. -- meet with personal expectations.

The photos below are examples of interior items to consider prior to purchase:

67) Carbon monoxide (CO) alarm(s): In a preliminary overview, I did not identify/locate CO alarms. Sometimes dual CO/smoke alarms (both features built into combination units) might be present but go unidentified. By law in Washington, at the time of a real estate sale, an approved CO alarm is required outside or, if necessary to provide sufficient coverage, inside each separate sleeping area and (as applicable) on each floor level. An inspector does not routinely test, count, or determine that an operable CO alarm is situated in every required location. Prior to assuming occupancy, clients should further assess alarms. If necessary, add/reposition/upgrade alarms so as to comply with state law and all prevailing safety protocols. All consumer alarms must be installed per manufacturers' specifications. Residents are advised to regularly test alarms, change batteries as needed, and replace any old or nonoperational alarms (10 years is the maximum estimated design life). For additional information on CO alarms, please follow this link: http://goo.gl/q4cEg0