1) Visual limitations: The inspection process may be impeded by various factors, e.g., building materials, paint and finished surfaces, plants growing near a building, intrinsic design elements, marginal lighting. Inspector cannot see into, through or behind, walls, roofing, vegetation, flashings, etc. Every problem cannot be identified in the course of a visual home inspection, concealed or undiscovered deficiencies may exist. The report provides a general overview of onsite conditions. If issues of significance are reported, clients should arrange for contractor review (testing or invasive investigation) into areas of concern. When clients arrange for repairs, vs. sellers hiring contractors, purchasers are usually in a stronger bargaining position if work is later found to be substandard.

State law has classified specific conditions as "deficient." A licensed inspector will report state mandated deficiencies although remedying such problems might prove to be difficult, impractical, or unpopular with sellers or property owners. This is not an environmental survey: The presence of potentially hazardous substances or microbial bodies-mold are excluded per the Washington Standards of Practice.

2) PNW region pests: Pests such as rodents (mice, rats or squirrels), aggressive species of insects (hornets or wasps), nesting birds or potentially destructive woodpeckers, bats in some areas, and wood destroying insects are frequently seen in this region. Rodents will climb and a mouse can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime. A rat can pass or gnaw through a hole the size of a quarter and a squirrel can go through a 1 1/2" diameter opening. If observed onsite, I report signs of pests and vulnerabilities that might lead to infestation. At this property, there appeared to be significant rodent intrusion into the substructure. See "Crawlspace-Foundation" section for further comments. Access and view are often restricted, property owners should be on the lookout for pest activity. As necessary, block any potential entry points. Correct conditions that are conducive to attracting pests: establish sufficient clearances between plants and the exterior, eliminate wood to soil contact, excess moisture and/or access to food sources. Pests are opportunistic, nomadic, and rodents can be a health concern. If an infestation is suspected, implement corrective measures and/or consult with a licensed pest management firm. Carpenter ants are more active seasonally, typically in warm weather than at other times of the year.

3) Procedures and general limitations: This home is unfurnished. Appliances, and any belongings, stored items, rugs, window coverings, etc., will not be moved to gain access. If the view is restricted, or if any areas were not readily accessible, those locations are excluded. When belongings have been removed, concerns that were not readily apparent, at the time of inspection, might be revealed.

At an unoccupied home, when fixtures and facilities are seldom in use, a small or concealed plumbing leak might not be readily apparent. Since the inspector runs a limited amount of water, clients moving into an unoccupied property are encouraged to run significant quantities of water and to be on the lookout for subtle problems. If/as might be necessary, consult with a licensed plumber. In instances where plumbing issues are referenced in a report, I advise clients to arrange for a professional assessment of fixtures and plumbing system.

4) Scope: The inspection is non-invasive, not exhaustive, and it does not include destructive testing, removing or moving building materials or components, itemizing all damage that might be present, or providing estimates of repair costs, verifying certificates of occupancy or permit/code compliance. Inspector assesses, operates or tests a representative number of components, e.g., cladding, roof, windows, doors, skylights, lights, receptacles, heat sources, plumbing fixtures, cabinets and interior surfaces. Seldom do I identify a specific manufacturers' products or speculate as to the composition of building materials. Thousands of items have been produced, and then painted, over the years. Any attempt to classify products, by manufacturer or composition, is a good faith guesstimate on the part of inspector based on available view. If a report references issues of significance, prior to closing or setting a final sales price, clients should arrange for further evaluation and obtain cost and repair estimates from qualified parties. In professional trades, qualified parties are those persons who were trained to work in a specialized field and they have appropriate contractor's licenses; for example, licensed electrical contractor, licensed plumbing contractor, licensed HVAC contractor, licensed roofing contractor, etc. When a job can legally be carried out by an unlicensed person, that individual should be capable of providing further guidance. Prompt follow-up, by seeking the advice of qualified professionals, diminishes the chances of discovering unpleasant or costly surprises after completing price negotiations or closing.

5) Standard Home Inspection (WAC 308-408C-010) compliant inspection: If observed, I report wood decay fungi (rot) and "conducive conditions" -- deficiencies defined by the state as contributing to the likelihood of attracting wood destroying organisms. It is not possible for the inspector to document every instance of wood decay fungi or all conducive conditions that might be present. Therefore, when conducive conditions (wood to soil contact, vegetation growing near or against cladding, etc.) or rot are referenced in the report, clients should arrange for qualified professionals to evaluate the conditions/damage and to provide cost and repair estimates. This report is limited to those conditions that were observed at the time of the inspection.

Note: This standard home inspection conforms to the Washington State Standards of Practice that regulate home inspectors. The report is not defined as a complete wood destroying organism inspection. In accordance with state law, if the presence of wood destroying insects-damage had been identified or suspected, I would have recommended contacting a licensed pest management firm.

6) Form 17: The home inspection is only part of the process that purchasers participate in when buying a property. Clients should study Form 17 (the real property disclosure statement) and, as applicable, follow-up on the information therein. Sellers, an exception being at some bank owned properties, are obligated to disclose known deficiencies with the building or the lot. Those deficiencies may not be observable at the time of the inspection; for example, signs of past moisture, flooding or matters involving pests. Due diligence on the part of clients includes studying Form 17, verifying listing information and data that is available from the Whatcom County Assessor's Office: http://property.whatcomcounty.us/

7)  Throughout the body of this report, there will be multiple references (links to videos and/or articles, and specific language) to "King of the House Inc." Steven L Smith, owner and operator of King of the House Inc., is my mentor, friend, and associate in the home inspection industry. Steven has provided this content to me with his permission to assist in the quality of information in this report.

8) Vinyl exterior: Vinyl (siding, panels, trim, soffit, etc.) has been manufactured for many years and the long-term durability of exterior materials is dependent on installation details, flashing-caulking and overall maintenance and care. The vinyl flashings, typically installed with the siding, obscure the view of transitions, joints, connections or metal flashings that might be present. Therefore, the sufficiency of flashings cannot be fully assessed. Vinyl material is subject to mechanical damage and melting, e.g., careless use of lawnmowers, children throwing baseballs, hot barbecues, etc. Limitation: Since vinyl becomes brittle over time, and might crack if subjected to prying, inspector does not pull on the material in order to report on the type/condition of any wraps or surfaces under siding.

At this home, the vinyl siding and flashing components appeared to be intact (with some localized damage), with the exception of missing flashings around the crawlspace/foundation vents. Minimally, I recommend monitoring crawlspace vent openings, as damage occurs, qualified party to repair replace as necessary. Ideally, qualified contractor would install vinyl flashing components around vents openings to prevent premature deterioration. As to the extent of damage noted at time of inspection; there are a fair number of localized mechanical damaged areas noted at the lower portions of the siding, typically due to lawnmower and/or weed-eater damage. For repairs or replacement of damaged areas, I recommend consulting with a general contractor well-versed in vinyl siding applications.

Despite vinyl having been originally promoted as a product that does not require paint, specialized paint is available for refinishing vinyl siding. Faded and sunlight impacted materials, if intact and undamaged, can be refinished. However, if vinyl is broken or melted, replace those materials prior to painting. Additional information on cleaning and painting vinyl materials is available at this link: http://goo.gl/fN4DwU

Photos below are examples of damaged vinyl siding at the structure:

9) At the front step, uniformity of risers and/or riser height, is not in accordance with current safety standards due to settlement at the walkway. To prevent tripping falls, steps should not vary, one from another, by MORE THAN 3/8" and maximum riser height is 7 3/4".

The sidewalk at the front landing has settled towards the structure resulting in a large gap and variations in height, may be tripping hazards. At client's discretion, consult with a flat work-paving contractor. Over time, most paved surfaces will settle and develop cracks. Depending on exposure and water penetration, it could become necessary to eventually replace materials. Cracks can often be sealed to protect against the negative effects of moisture. This online video, produced by a manufacturer of concrete sealant products, describes a method of waterproofing cracks in flat surface paving: https://youtu.be/4o1IZG-pVk0

If concerned, repair or replace sloped/settled walkway and have steps modified as necessary, with work to be completed by a general contractor. Craftsmanship to comply with prevailing safety guidelines and good building practices.

10) The faucet/hose bibb at the east side of the home leaked during a standard water pressure test. This procedure puts back pressure on a faucet, not unlike having a nozzle in the "off" position on a hose. I suggest tightening the bonnet (looks like a nut) at the valve stem and/or tightening or replacing the vacuum breaker. If any complications arise that go beyond the scope of routine maintenance, consult with a plumber. Based on appearance, the device(s) is probably of frost-free design (lesser likelihood of seasonal freezing). Also, backflow prevention was apparent, which decreases the risk of gray water entering the potable water system.

The hose bib at the west side of the home was not fully evaluated due to a damaged handle, faucet would not operate in its current condition. I recommend further review: Install new handles as necessary. All work to be performed by qualified party.

If hoses are left on faucets in winter, or if the piping runs through unheated space, even frost-free hose bibbs and pipes are susceptible to seasonal freezing. For additional information on hose bibb leaks, follow this link: http://goo.gl/2WQ9OJ

An informative article on various types of frost-free faucets and backflow prevention, is available here: http://goo.gl/B6nMVc

11) Perimeter grading of the ground slopes toward the structure. Sloped terrain, depending on soil conditions, can contribute to poor drainage and runoff water accumulating around a foundation or seepage into substructure areas. Grade soil, as might be necessary, at a slope ratio of 1" per foot for a minimum 6 ft out from the building -- so runoff water is directed away from the structure. Any work to be completed by qualified party. In a related matter, establish and maintain, as minimums, 4" to 6" of clearance between earth and siding products.


The negative slope is most notable at the West and East sides of the structure.

12) The fence and gate at the southwest corner was leaning significantly. I recommend qualified party repair as necessary. Evaluating property offenses is beyond the scope of a standard inspection. When repairs are performed at fences, any wood rot that is located at time of repairs should be replaced with the sound wood.

13) Windows: windows were operated and noted to be functional at time of inspection. No window screens were installed. Windows may not provide ventilation during months when insects are active. Windows, access to and view, may be obstructed by belongings, window coverings, breakables, height, etc. Inspector evaluates a number of windows, not necessarily every window, and looks for discernibly cloudy double pane glazing. Sometimes, fog can be elusive and less noticeable, depending on temperature, humidity, sunlight, shade and cleanliness of panes. I do not provide an inclusive list of potentially fogged or compromised windows. Client(s) should verify personal satisfaction with windows. If need be, clean glass prior to making a definitive determination. Any repairs should to be completed by qualified contractor.


Since materials and design elements are obscured from view by trim, siding, etc., it is usually not possible to assess the sufficiency of all flashings, caulking or flanges at window or door installations.

14) Vegetation (plants, trees, shrubs, vines) is close to/in contact with the exterior. Vegetation, situated near the building, is conducive to the onset of rot or attracting wood destroying insects. Cut back or remove vegetation, establish a minimum 6" to 12" gap between plants and the exterior. All work to be completed by qualified party. Vegetation, near the building, obstructs access, obscures the view and might conceal damage from, or activity by, wood destroying organisms. An online video, descriptive of other commonly seen "conducive conditions," is available here: http://goo.gl/CPMASl

15) Entry/exterior door(s): Doors were operational at the time of the inspection.

16) Any cracks, or variations in height, at the driveway do not appear to be tripping hazards. Over time, most paved surfaces will settle and develop cracks. Depending on exposure and water penetration, it could become necessary to eventually replace materials. Cracks can often be sealed to protect against the negative effects of moisture. This online video, produced by a manufacturer of concrete sealant products, describes a method of waterproofing cracks in flat surface paving: https://youtu.be/4o1IZG-pVk0

17) Exterior & site (general information and limitations): Procedurally, inspector views a representative number of accessible components at the exterior -- siding, trim, fascia, windows, doors, etc. In the interest of safety, soffit and high exterior areas will be viewed from the ground. Where the view is restricted, for any reason, that location is excluded: Inspector is, per state law, exempted from traversing areas beneath decks-porches with less than 60" of clearance from the underside of joists to grade. Critical design elements are often obscured from view; therefore, it is impossible to assess the integrity of all transition flashings, window flanges and windows. If exterior issues are reported, clients should obtain cost and repair estimates from general contractors. Further review, by specialists, could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection.

18) Garage/laundry appliances: The laundry area is in the garage. To reduce the chances of appliances inadvertently igniting flammable gasoline vapors that might accumulate near the garage floor, certain electro-mechanical devices and gas appliances, electrical receptacles, appliance motors, etc., should be raised a minimum of 18" over the floor. Many newer dryers and washing machines can be placed at floor level, depending on design type and manufacturer specifications. I recommend further review: prior to purchase, study the laundry equipment manuals or search online, to determine appliance suitability for the application, or consult with appliance installation-repair professional. If modifications or repairs are necessary, any work should be completed by qualified professional.

Risk is appliance's ignition source lighting flammable gasoline vapors. Applies to many gas and electric dryers.

19) The wall button(s), for opening and closing the powered vehicle door(s), was mounted too low. As a precautionary measure, to make it difficult for youngsters to operate vehicle doors, mechanical opener/operator buttons should be installed, as a minimum, 5 ft above the highest horizontal surface (floor, stairs, etc.) a person could stand on. I recommend further evaluation: Reposition the button(s), work to be completed by qualified party, so as to comply with standard safety guidelines.

20) The garage, including the walls, floor, ceiling, and the connecting door to the house, was built to provide limited resistance to the spread of a fire between the garage and the dwelling. A garage interior, if it is in close proximity to the residence, must be fire-resistant: no openings or holes in drywall that could allow a fire in the garage to spread to other parts of the home. At a minimum, drywall should be installed at the garage side of shared walls. If the attic over the garage communicates with the attic over the home, or if there is living space above the garage, the garage ceiling requires drywall as well. Small gaps around pipes, vents, ducts, conduits or junction boxes, should be firestopped with fire-resistant sealant/caulking. The floor, usually concrete, must be noncombustible. For additional information on fire-resistance, click on the link (near the bottom of this report section) in "Garage (general information and limitations)."

21) Garage (general information and limitations): Attached or built in garages must provide limited resistance to the spread of a fire between the garage and habitable space. Establishing fire-resistance entails installing drywall at critical wall and ceiling areas, also, a garage floor, usually concrete, must consist of noncombustible material. Inspector does not assess the balance adjustment at overhead doors, manually release openers/operators or disassemble mechanisms, due to the difficulties involved in reattaching components. If door balance is improperly set, primary implications include unnecessary wear, overheating and failure of operator motors or mechanisms. When garage issues are reported, I recommend evaluation and repairs as necessary, work to be completed by qualified professionals. Further review, by a general contractor, could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection. An article that describes in detail garage to house fire-resistance, may be accessed at: http://goo.gl/utlmnI

22) Exposed lumber: There are missing, or out of place, flashings over the rafter tails/fascia up at the roofline. This condition can contribute to wood decay fungi (rot). Rot was present at some rafter tails, most notably at the south gable. I recommend further evaluation: Qualified general contractor or roofer to correct/repair by removing any deteriorated wood and replacing it with sound materials. On a case by case basis, install or improve upon flashings -- so they direct runoff water from the roof over the rafter tails or fascia. Flashings, typically cut from shingles or metal, should extend approximately 2" over any tails. While onsite, professional to offer suggestions as to other beneficial repairs or upgrades. A photo of two rafters, one with a flashing and the other without, may be accessed at this link: http://goo.gl/XV9z0F

To see an online video, produced by King of the House Inc. on the topic of rot, please follow this link: http://youtu.be/6p8q1Pa1H_U

23) Downspout is detached at the southeast corner. Uncontrolled water runoff is conducive to the onset of rot or attracting other wood destroying organisms. Upgrade/repair downspouts and gutters if/as required. If necessary, consult with a gutter and downspout installation contractor.

24) Rubber plumbing stack flashings have a lifespan of about 10 to 12 years. Exposure to the sun, age and weathering eventually leads to cracks in rubber or even seepage. In light of the age, discoloration and deterioration of rubber flashings, I recommend repair/replacement as necessary, work to be completed by roofer. Qualified professional, while onsite, to evaluate the roof covering, appurtenances and associated flashings, roof-attic ventilation if applicable, and offer suggestions as to other beneficial repairs or upgrades.

25) Gutters contain accumulated debris. That condition impedes drainage and can result in overflowing, seepage at ends/corners/where downspouts attach, and even deterioration of roof sheathing at the eaves. Clean/maintain gutters, downspouts and any associated drains and connections. If necessary, reseal ends and corners and/or adjust slope. As applicable, consult with a gutter and downspout repair or installation contractor.

26) Some of the nail heads on the roof are exposed/unsealed, a condition that results in a heightened risk of seepage into attic or interior space. I recommend further evaluation and appropriate repairs such as applying tar or mastic over fasteners. Work to be completed by roofer. Professional, while onsite, to assess the roof covering appurtenances and associated flashings, roof-attic ventilation if applicable, and offer suggestions as to other beneficial repairs or upgrades.

27) Abandoned appurtenances (old satellite mounts) are present up on the roof. I recommend removing any unnecessary rooftop appurtenances and repairing-roofing over any holes that remain. All work to be completed by qualified roofing contractor.

28) Drip edge flashings were not installed at the eave(s) and gable ends (rake). Over time, lack of flashing can lead to rot at fascia and/or roof sheathing. I recommend monitoring conditions or, at client's option, have a roofer install flashing. A photo of a composition roof, with drip edge eave and rake flashings, is accessible here: http://goo.gl/fje9Lp

Prior to July 2014, when standard guidelines changed, drip edge eave and rake flashings were often not installed at the time of construction.

29) Moss, growing here, obscures the view of roofing materials-components and makes for a slippery roof surface. This condition is conducive to premature deterioration of roofing materials. Remove and/or control moss with Moss B Ware, or a similar product, sold at home stores. Follow manufacturers' recommendations. Work to be completed by roofer. This may be primarily a cleaning and maintenance issue but, when all of the roof is clear, visible and readily accessible, qualified professional to review the roof covering, appurtenances and associated flashings, roof-attic ventilation if applicable, and offer suggestions as to other beneficial repairs or upgrades.

30) The age of the roof was undetermined/unknown to inspector. Based on overall observable condition at time of inspection, it is assumed to be original to the structure. An estimate of remaining life or certification of any roof or associated components is beyond the scope of this process. No assurances are provided that a roof is immune to damage resultant from extreme weather or strong winds. Determining that no leaks exist would necessitate further inspections during a variety of conditions including heavy rainfall and gusty wind. Roof-attic ventilation may be referenced, but I cannot guarantee adequacy of venting, since doing so would require monitoring over time. If a client wishes to obtain a roof certification (warranty against future problems-damage or a guesstimate of remaining life) contact a roofing firm that participates in such programs.

Annual review: Roofs are exposed to severe weather and adverse conditions. Defects develop quickly, with little warning, and minor failings can turn into big problems. On a periodic basis, hire a professional to clean and assess the roof surface, flashings, penetrations, etc. to make sure that they're watertight. As applicable, depending on circumstances, enter attic space to obtain a supplementary view. Regularly cleaning a roof prolongs surface life and a roofing contractor is best prepared to not only clean but, also, identify and correct, subtle deficiencies. Annual roof cleaning is ancillary to resolving any other issues referred to in this report.

31) Roof (general information and limitations): Reportable issues include damage or excessive wear at roofing, loose flashings or fasteners, accumulated organic debris and moss, problems at penetrations and appurtenances. Roofing materials restrict the view of flashings, fasteners and underlayments. I attempt to identify observable deficiencies at accessible locations, but I cannot foresee all problems that might develop. If roof (or attic) issues are reported, clients are advised to obtain detailed cost and repair estimates from a licensed roofing contractor. Further review, by a specialist, could uncover irregularities that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection.

Whenever abandoned appurtenances are present, it is advisable to remove those components, and patch/roof over, any holes that remain. Any work to be completed by qualified roofing contractor.

32) When it is practical and safe to do so, I will partially traverse the attic. This attic does not have flooring in place over structural members and insulation obstructs the view. An accidental misstep would damage the ceiling. Furthermore, tramping on insulation reduces R-values and vulnerable components (wiring, pipes, lights, ducts), are often concealed under insulation. Taking into consideration those factors, the interior of the attic was viewed from the hatch. Unavoidably, several locations are excluded such as low clearance soffit-eave areas. Space with less than 30" of headroom is considered to be inaccessible. Unseen problems may exist at difficult to reach or inaccessible locations.

Any building owner should, on a regular basis, check inside attic space. The sufficiency of ventilation involves air changes, relative humidity, and factors that are not easily assessed during the course of a single inspection. Clients are advised to look for indications of condensation-moisture on roof sheathing, overheating, bird or insect/bee entry, etc. If problems become apparent, when monitoring attic conditions over time, consult with a qualified service provider.

33) Attic/roof (general information and limitations): Manufactured trusses, present here, are designed by engineers. Since trusses are engineered, it is disallowed for anyone other than an engineer to modify or cut structural members (chords and webs). Observable attic areas are viewed to see if trusses appear to be compromised. I describe attic-roof ventilation, but do not guarantee adequacy of venting: Doing so would require consistent monitoring over time and years. Problems may go undiscovered at inaccessible locations, and any areas that were not traversed are excluded. Usually, inspector is unable to assess sufficiency of combustible clearances between vents/chimneys and flammable materials. If attic (or roof) issues are reported, clients should obtain detailed cost and repair estimates from licensed contractors. Further review, by specialists, could uncover irregularities that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection. At wood roof structure such as trusses and, lesser so, rafters, seasonal differentials in humidity can cause "uplift," small wall or ceiling cracks in drywall at seams, joints, finished corners. Typically, uplift is a cosmetic matter, not considered to be a structural concern of significance.

Inspector attempts to view accessible attic space. Points of entry (knee wall or ceiling hatch covers, etc.) might not be discovered as a result of furniture, belongings or certain design elements. Any openings that were inaccessible, concealed, and not entered are excluded. At client's discretion, ask property owner(s) if he/she is aware of additional access hatches that were not described in this report. If so, have any such areas opened and inspected.

34) Receptacles (outlets) are missing cover plates in the garage. Therefore, exposed connections are easily accessible. As necessary onsite, install cover plates. Any work to be performed by qualified party.

35) AFCI breakers (arc fault circuit interrupters) reduce the risk of house fires by safeguarding against overheating or arcing at specific circuits. AFCI test buttons were tripped and, as anticipated, power went out at specific circuits such as bedroom receptacles and lights. Inspector is not a code enforcement official and does not certify that receptacles and/or the electrical system conform to all past or present building codes. Since conditions change, and electrical components can fail, periodically check the function of AFCI protection devices.

36) The "main" service panel was inspected after first removing the front cover. Grounds and neutrals appeared to be properly tapped to the busbars in the panel. Earth electrode grounding was not confirmed, typically difficult to find with underground service. However, bonding to the metal gas and copper water supply pipes were noted and exposed pipes in the garage. A lockout device was installed at the circuit for the dishwasher. Lockouts should be in place at circuit breakers that control any appliances that are not within sight of the panel/disconnect AND if the appliances cannot be unplugged or switched off.

37) Lighting: The inspection of lights and lighting is not inclusive, nor an analysis of all such devices, nor of 3-way and 4-way switches, switched receptacles, motion detectors and dimmers. Often, if a light or a switch does not function, a bulb will be burned-out or missing. It is not uncommon to find wall switches that are abandoned, or they remotely control switched/split receptacles or outdoor fixtures with built in motion detectors or photocells. An inspector does not troubleshoot circuits, replace or swap-out bulbs. I recommend testing switches and replacing any burned-out or missing light bulbs and/or defective fixtures, switches or wiring. Electrical work, when/if necessary, should be completed by licensed electrician. Note: At fixtures in general, and if recessed or "can" ceiling lights are present, always put in replacement bulbs of the recommended size. With recessed lights, typically those made prior to 1982 and depending on manufacturer specifications, the metal fixtures may have to be separated from attic insulation.

38) Ground fault (GFCI) protection: Receptacles that were readily accessible, and are situated at many locations that require GFCI protection, were tested. Those evaluated were operational and GFCI protected circuits were present at; the kitchen which is protected with two separate GFCI receptacles. The exterior and garage were protected with the GFCI receptacle at the east wall of the garage, all receptacles on the west wall of the garage appeared to be in line with the GFCI receptacle on that wall. Both bathrooms were GFCI protected at the GFCI receptacle in the main bathroom. No receptacles were noted in the crawlspace or attic. If receptacles are noted in unconditioned areas such as crawl space and attics, those should be protected with GFCI receptacles or breakers.

The inspector does not test receptacles that are in excluded locations, obstructed from view, out in the yard, high on ceilings, walls, under eaves or in crawl spaces. GFCI receptacles or breakers reduce the likelihood of serious electrical shocks in damp environments. In 2014, GFCI protection requirements were expanded upon: Now the devices are installed at multiple 120 volt branch circuits. If wiring is modified in the future, depending on the scope of the project, the permitting process may trigger mandatory upgrades. State law compels an inspector to suggest updating GFCI protection to meet with present guidelines, which are more stringent than when the house was built. However, whether or not a client follows through on that recommendation is optional. A diagram, illustrative of current placement for GFCI and AFCI (arc fault) protection, is available at this link: https://goo.gl/8CfcKF

Below is a list, not necessarily comprehensive, that describes a number of locations that require GFCI protection:

- Outdoor receptacles (120V), except those designated for ice melting equipment (must be dedicated circuits)
- Receptacles (120V) in garages, shops, outbuildings, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, mechanical rooms
- Receptacles (120V) in bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchen countertop areas (including islands, desks, kitchen sinks)
- Any receptacles (120V) within 6 ft of the outside edge of any sink (utility, wet bar, laundry, kitchen, etc.)
- Circuits (receptacles/outlets) at dishwashers
- Receptacles (120V) supplying power to jetted tub pumps, motorized pool equipment and most other such devices, e.g., sump, ejector/grinder, well pumps)

39) Electric system (general information and limitations): A representative number of receptacles (outlets), switches and light fixtures are inspected. Receptacles or switches situated at difficult to access locations such as behind appliances, under eaves or high on the building are excluded, as are 240 volt, low voltage or other non-standard outlets, and those with childproof covers. Inspector will comment on GFCI (ground fault) and AFCI (arc fault) protected receptacles, but seldom is it possible to locate and test all such receptacles. Inspector does not verify specific placement of tamper-resistant receptacles: protection against shocks and electrical burns. Whenever a receptacle is replaced, tamper-resistant receptacles are now a mandatory upgrade at most locations. I do not trip overcurrent protection devices to verify accuracy of legends or count receptacles/switches to determine if circuits are overloaded. A report may reference electric service sizing, but capacity could be diminished by under-rated components in a system. Breaker sizing guidelines have changed over the years, so, except at new construction, amperage might be lesser than what would be installed today. Even simple electrical projects can pose safety risks, so always consult with licensed professionals. While onsite, an electrician should evaluate the system, report deficiencies and provide recommendations as to potentially beneficial upgrades or repairs. If significant issues are reported, I advise obtaining detailed cost and repair estimates. Specialized review, by a licensed electrician, could reveal deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection. All panels that were inspected, not excluded, are referenced in the report. If additional panels that were not readily apparent to inspector are later found to be present, they should be reviewed by a licensed electrician.

40) Furnace service/heating contractor review: The furnace was turned on and it was functional. The last service date, based on the service label was 2018 and the furnace, based on the view inside, would benefit from cleaning and service. Forced-air furnaces and associated components, according to manufacturers' estimates, have a life expectancy of 15-20 years. Actual lifespan may vary. Furnaces should be professionally cleaned and serviced annually to extend appliance life and to assure ongoing safety. I recommend further evaluation and service by an HVAC contractor: Professional review to include air-handler, airflow-balance, ducts, supply registers, connections, heat exchanger, combustible clearances and combustion air, vent for the length of its run, cleaning and, as applicable, gas piping, valves, carbon monoxide (CO) testing, condensate pump and drain line. A specialist could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a home inspection. When onsite, HVAC technician to explain routine maintenance procedures such as how to replace or clean filters. A heating contractor produced online video, descriptive of the procedures customarily included as part of HVAC service at a gas furnace, is available at this link: https://youtu.be/YNxjChOvEME

41) I recommend replacing or washing HVAC filters upon taking occupancy depending on the type of filters installed. Regardless of the type, I recommend checking filters monthly in the future and replacing or washing them as necessary. How frequently they need replacing or washing depends on the type and quality of the filter, how the system is configured (e.g. always on vs. "Auto"), and on environmental factors (e.g. pets, smoking, frequency of house cleaning, number of occupants, the season).

42) Over the past decade, and in prior years, many brands of heating appliances (furnaces, electric and gas heaters, gas fireplaces, wood burning appliances) and cooling equipment have been recalled. It is not practicable for an inspector to identify all recalled consumer products. An easy to use search feature intended to identify, upon inputting brands and/or model numbers, recalled heating-cooling systems, electric heaters and other defective household appliances may be accessed at: http://goo.gl/Mc3Kcq

43) Heat: A home should have a source of heat in every habitable room. Bathrooms, laundry rooms, closets, hallways, unfinished basements, etc. are not defined as habitable or livable space. While employing an infrared heat sensing instrument, I checked a representative number of accessible and readily apparent heat supply registers. When the heating appliance and air handler were running, those ducts and registers tested were blowing warm air.

Inspector provides a simple overview of the system. The process is not exhaustive. Sometimes, supply registers are obscured from view by belongings. I do not attest to the adequacy of all ducts, system balance or the sufficiency of airflow to all rooms. Such assurances would have to come from an HVAC professional. On a periodic basis, remove supply registers and vacuum inside the exposed ducts.

44) HVAC/heating system (general information and limitations): The heating and/or cooling system inspection is basic, visual and limited in scope. Inspector does not disassemble HVAC appliances nor assess heat exchangers, thermostat calibration, system sufficiency, all venting, ducts, supply registers and airflow to rooms. A heating professional has access to specialized equipment that will locate defective heat exchangers, identify vent deficiencies, and fully evaluate balance, sufficiency and continuity of ducting. If inspector reports any problems, or recommends service, all work and full system evaluation should be performed by licensed HVAC professional or, in some instances, a licensed electrician or plumber. Further assessment by specialists could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection. Gas meters, fuel storage tanks (propane, heating oil), or associated piping, valves and connectors are excluded.

45) Basic exhaust-ventilation systems such as bathroom fans, laundry fans or range hoods will be described in the "Interior Areas" report section. Exterior vent hoods should be equipped with backdraft dampers (flappers) and screens (1/4"-1/2" wire mesh). Due to the complexities involved in doing so, inspector does not verify sufficiency of dampers or screens.

46) The hot water temperature at fixtures reads as a minimum of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The risk of scalding increases when temperature is set higher than 120°F I recommend adjusting/limiting the water temperature at fixtures to 120°F. Water temperature is regulated by thermostatic controls at/inside water heaters. Temperature may vary throughout the day, depending on when the appliance last heated water. Even though temperature at fixtures should be limited to 120°F, maintaining a higher tank temperature reduces the probability of bacterial growth inside the water heater. Therefore, a preferred means of lowering temperature involves installing a thermal mixing valve: Water at fixtures is restricted to 120°F, yet water in the tank will maintain a temperature of 130-140°F At client’s discretion, qualified party to adjust thermostat(s) or have a plumber install thermal mixing valve. To obtain more information on hot water safety, please visit: http://goo.gl/IS7knJ

An article, descriptive of thermal mixing valves, is available at this link: http://goo.gl/sqzs3t

47) The water heater was manufactured in 2003. The anticipated useful life for a tank water heater, according to manufacturers' estimates, is 8 to 12 years. Actual lifespan will vary and, depending on corrosivity of water and other difficult to predict factors, electric tanks might outlast gas-fired tanks. Regardless, future life expectancy of this appliance and associated components cannot be determined. An aging water heater may fail unexpectedly, which can result in leakage and insufficient, or no, hot water. Due to the complications involved in dealing with a failed or leaking water heater, client(s) should consider contractor replacement of the appliance prior to more significant problems becoming apparent.

48) [iWater heaters (general information and limitations): Inspector does not evaluate pipes-tubing or vents that run inside walls, or valves, thermostats or burners-heating elements and other components that are not readily accessible. Undiscovered corrosion of a tank could be present, yet go unreported, as a result of lack of visibility or access. When issues with a system are reported, clients should obtain detailed cost and repair estimates. Due to the complexities of such devices, and a number of potential safety issues, any work and evaluation of water heater/plumbing system should be performed by a licensed plumber and/or an HVAC professional. Timely service, and specialized review, could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection. [/i]

49) The exterior dryer hood contains an accumulation of lint. As the problem worsens, a blockage could lead to fire, or damage the thermal devices inside the dryer. I recommend cleaning the dryer hood, and associated ducting, now and as necessary in the future. Work to be completed by qualified party. To obtain additional information on dryers and ducting, please visit: http://goo.gl/B2i6QT

50) The water pressure reading was at 40 PSI. 40-80 PSI is considered to be normal range for water pressure. Most plumbers suggest a setting of 50 to 60 PSI. Since pressure and flow are matters of personal preference, I suggest that clients run water from two or more faucets at a time. If pressure and/or flow are unsatisfactory, in client's view, consult with plumber. Water pressure may vary throughout the day depending on usage or neighborhood demand.

51) At the time a clothes dryer is installed, I recommend against using foil-mylar or plastic accordion-type flex duct not be used. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. They can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow and cause overheating. I recommend installing a semi-rigid aluminum flex duct. I recommend repair/upgrade of ducting. Work to be completed, in a manner that complies with general safety guidelines, by qualified appliance installation-repair professional. To obtain additional information on dryers and ducting, please visit: http://goo.gl/B2i6QT

Also: At time close washer is installed, I recommend against using rubber water supply hoses. Rubber hoses are prone to eventual deterioration and leaks. I recommend replacing rubber supply hoses with long-lasting stainless steel braided washing machine hoses. Alternatively, consider an upgrade to "FloodSafe" auto-shutoff connectors: designed to stop the flow of water if leakage occurs. A wide assortment of hoses are available at hardware and home stores. A manufacturer produced online video that explains the operation of FloodSafe specialty hoses is available at this link: http://youtu.be/HIIjGvR-2xI

52) Plumbing system (general information and limitations): When it is possible to do so, I check a plumbing system by running a limited quantity of water. Service, supply, drain, waste piping, components or valves that are inside walls, ceilings, buried (or otherwise unobservable) are excluded. As a result of these limitations, concealed problems may become apparent when occupants run water and use facilities on a consistent basis. Inspector does not assess underground service-supply, drain-waste piping, publicly owned components, private water systems and/or filtration, determine the presence, or functionality, of any sewage ejector-grinder pumps or private sewage systems. Even simple plumbing repairs can, unexpectedly, turn into complicated projects. Whenever work is required, consult with licensed professionals. While onsite, plumber should evaluate the system including fixtures, supply, drain and waste lines, venting, etc., and provide recommendations as to potentially beneficial upgrades or repairs. If significant issues with system/components are reported, I advise obtaining detailed cost and repair estimates. Specialized evaluation, by a plumbing contractor, could reveal deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection.

53) Shutoff valve(s) exclusion: Water supply shutoff valves, including any occupant accessible "main," municipal or street "mains," and dedicated shutoffs under/behind fixtures or appliances are not routinely operated. Only normal controls are tested such as sink and tub faucets. Prior to moving in belongings, client(s) should verify that shutoff valves are functional, readily accessible and situated at standard locations. Often, infrequently used shutoff valves are difficult to turn or they leak at valve stems. If problems become apparent, consult with plumber.

54) Plumbing fixtures inspected, including tubs, showers, toilets and sinks (possible exception being laundry sinks, which might be in this report section), are described in the "Interior Areas" report section. Outside hose bibbs/faucets that were inspected are usually referenced in the "Exterior & Site" report section.

55) Signs of past or present rodent activity were noted in the form of odors, droppings, seed shells, traps and/or poison, dead rodents. Often it is not possible to determine the current status of pests. The most obvious intrusion point noted at time inspection would be the gap at the top of the crawlspace access. In some instances, traps and bait indicate that occupants are trying to prevent infestations. At this home I noted that some poison bait/poison blocks were improperly used in the crawlspace, i.e. not contained in a sufficient bait box. Rodents are commonly seen, often moving around from one location to another, and they can cause extensive damage. Mice and rats are able to pass through small (3/4" to 1") openings. If pests gain access to one area, they are likely to be active at other locations as well. I recommend further evaluation, consulting with a pest management professional. See additional recommendations in the "General Information" report section.

As a result of the apparent rodent infestation, some of the underfloor insulation has fallen down or it is damaged/missing. As a guideline, based on today's standards, underfloor insulation at floors above unheated space is rated at R-30 or better. I recommend further review and appropriate repairs: Install/re-install, or custom fit, insulation. Insulation should be tight to the underside of the floor above and the vapor barrier paper backing, on most modern batt insulation, is designed to face the warm side. Upside down insulation can result in moisture retention. All work to be completed by qualified professional. Underfloor insulation, when present, obscures the view including at structural lumber such as subfloor/floor, sill plate, joists, rim joist, etc. Inspectors do not pull down or move insulation; therefore, some areas are excluded from the inspection.

56) Some crawl space vents are blocked, obscured by insulation -- venting impeded on the inside -- because underfloor insulation has been pushed-up against the screens. I recommend, on a case by case basis, adjusting/trimming insulation so all vents are fully open. Any work to be completed by qualified party.

57) Cracking (size 1/8" or less wide and considered to be minor to moderate) was noted in the foundation. This type of cracking is seldom a structural concern, but it can be conducive to moisture entry. I suggest locating and sealing existing cracks and monitoring foundation for cracks that might develop/require maintenance in years to come. All work to be completed by qualified party. An article that describes different types of foundation cracks can be accessed here: http://goo.gl/QsMdgO

This online video, produced by a manufacturer of concrete sealant products, explains a technique for repairing small to moderate sized foundation cracks: https://youtu.be/_cJEk50nNyo

Inspector assesses a poured concrete foundation from the exterior and, when practical to do so, from substructure areas. Visibility at the outside may be obscured by design elements, vegetation or earth. At substructure interior space, the inspection could be limited by multiple factors: lack of access or marginal lighting, tight clearances, architecture and building materials themselves that restrict viewing, stored belongings, etc.

58) Pest entry point: A gap that could allow pests or rodents access to the substructure area was noted at the crawl space opening. Mice and rats are often seen, able to gain entry through small (3/4" to 1") openings, and the creatures can cause significant damage to building materials. I recommend locating and eliminating any potential pest entry gaps, monitor the property for rodent activity, and, if necessary, consult with a pest management professional. If pests gain entry to any part of a building, they could be present at other areas as well. See additional recommendations in the "General information" report section.

The cover is inadequate, at the outdoor access opening to the crawl space. This deficiency can result in rodent/animal entry and moisture intrusion into the substructure area. I recommend installing a cover at the access point. The cover should be made of a rot-resistant and suitable material that is appropriate for the purpose, customarily metal or fiber cement products. All work to be completed by qualified party.

59) Earth is uncovered/exposed at some areas of the crawl space: inadequate vapor barrier ground cover. Evaporation from the ground can result in a damp/humid crawl space and high humidity at interior space -- conditions that are conducive to attracting wood destroying organisms. The NW Clean Air Agency estimates that as much as 40% of the air inside a residence has evaporated up from substructure areas. I recommend further review: Repair/replace vapor barrier, as might be necessary, so all earth is covered. If additional material is required, employ 6 mil non-translucent polyethylene (black is preferred) with plastic installed to lay as flat as is possible and seams should overlap by a minimum of 24". Fold or cut ground cover, so it is not in contact with posts/structural lumber -- moisture that collects between plastic and the wood can lead to decay. All work to be completed by qualified party.

60) The plastic vapor barrier ground cover is up against wood posts Fold or cut ground cover, so it is not in contact with posts/structural lumber -- moisture that collects between plastic and the wood can lead to decay. All work to be completed by qualified party.

61) Seasonal conditions: in the PNW, typically in fall and winter, we experience more rainfall and runoff water than at other times of the year. Since conditions change, on a regular basis, crawl spaces should be entered and checked for standing water, plumbing leaks, fallen or damaged insulation, rodent activity and indications of insects such as wood shavings on the foundation wall, the sill or the crawl space floor. If any problems are seen, consult with appropriate contractors/service providers.

62) This building, based on the view at one (or more) observable location(s), appears to have some bolts that anchor a sill plate or structural lumber to the foundation. Bolts are, in most instances, partially or fully concealed by intrinsic design elements and/or insulation: Inspector does not search out or count bolts, washers or nuts, measure spacing between bolts or determine if anchors comply with past, or present, construction guidelines.

63) Unconditioned crawl space (general information and limitations): When present, underfloor insulation, ducting, piping or wiring can limit access and view. I report standing water and sump pumps that I see, or otherwise become aware of, during the course of the inspection. Since sump pumps are usually partially buried, they might go undiscovered. I do not guarantee that a crawl space has been dry in the past or assume that it will remain dry in the future. Any such assurances could only be provided after long-term monitoring, e.g., during varying seasonal conditions including heavy rainfall and melting snow. If a report references crawl space deficiencies, clients are encouraged to obtain cost and repair estimates. Professional contractors, after full assessment, should offer suggestions as to potentially beneficial repairs or upgrades. Further evaluation, by a licensed general contractor, could uncover problems that were not identified at the time of a non-invasive home inspection.

64) The range hood exhaust fan was turned on. Exhaust termination point was not located, suspected to terminate in the wall behind appliance -- not vented outdoors through the roof or the exterior wall. When operating, a gas range produces combustion gases-carbon monoxide. Therefore, if a gas range is present, the fan should be run whenever the range is in use. With a gas range, or any range, it is best to direct moisture produced during cooking and, as applicable, by-products of combustion to the outdoors. Regardless of the energy source of the range, I recommend that clients plan to modify the arrangement: duct the range hood to the outdoors. Any work, and further review, to be completed by qualified party.

Photos below are infrared examples of this determination. There was no exterior vent cover noted associated with the kitchen exhaust and no recirculating error was noted at the interior from the fan grill. Thermal imaging indicated elevated heat in the wall cavity when fan was operated with a cooktop burner on:

65) The range/cooktop is gas. Main burners heated, as did the oven and broiler. However, the range tipped forward when pressure was applied. This is a safety concern, especially so for children, who might pull on or climb on the range. I recommend further review and appropriate repair: Install a standard anti-tip bracket to better secure the range. All work to be completed by qualified appliance installation-repair professional.

Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances meets with personal expectations.

Inspector does not verify internal temperatures, the operation of timers, clocks, convection ovens, warmer burners or drawers, appliance lights, or seal/fit of gaskets. Due to potential pitfalls, I do not move appliances, remove drawers to view connections, gas valves, brackets, mounting hardware, etc. Upon taking occupancy, clients are encouraged to move appliances to obtain better access and view. If any issues are discovered, consult with knowledgeable repair persons.

66) Interior (recommendations, general information and limitations): The inspector views walls, ceilings, floors and assesses the condition of a representative number of windows, doors, cabinets, and electrical components. When belongings are present, access to or the view of numerous areas might be obstructed by appliances, furniture, window coverings and breakables. Inspector does not move appliances or furniture. After personal items have been removed, problems that were not identified at the time of the inspection might become apparent. I am focusing on significant concerns and do not dwell on cosmetic matters that the discerning purchaser is probably already aware of such as nail-pops, scuff marks, blemishes indications of past wear and use, countertops, cupboards and drawers, housekeeping, or subtle household odors. With the exception of new construction, most residences will display signs of previous occupancy. Regardless of the age and condition of a property, often individuals plan to renovate. Design and general appearance of interior decor are matters of personal taste. Therefore, it is client's responsibility to ascertain that interior features -- floor coverings, wall or ceiling surfaces, paint, cabinetry, appliances, etc. -- meet with personal expectations.

The photos below are examples of interior items to consider prior to purchase:

67) Carbon monoxide (CO) alarm(s): In a preliminary overview, I did not identify/locate CO alarms. Sometimes dual CO/smoke alarms (both features built into combination units) might be present but go unidentified. By law in Washington, at the time of a real estate sale, an approved CO alarm is required outside or, if necessary to provide sufficient coverage, inside each separate sleeping area and (as applicable) on each floor level. An inspector does not routinely test, count, or determine that an operable CO alarm is situated in every required location. Prior to assuming occupancy, clients should further assess alarms. If necessary, add/reposition/upgrade alarms so as to comply with state law and all prevailing safety protocols. All consumer alarms must be installed per manufacturers' specifications. Residents are advised to regularly test alarms, change batteries as needed, and replace any old or nonoperational alarms (10 years is the maximum estimated design life). For additional information on CO alarms, please follow this link: http://goo.gl/q4cEg0

68) The doorbell was operational at time of inspection but it was noted that the exterior button was damaged. If concern, I recommend replacing, work to be performed by qualified party.

69) Tub(s)/shower(s) inspection: The gap, behind the tub spout, could allow moisture entry into the wall. If a spout gap is small enough, caulking can be applied. A more permanent solution is to put in place an escutcheon trim plate that can be installed at the back of the spout. I recommend further assessment, and appropriate repairs, with work to be completed by a qualified plumber.

Inspection procedure: Inspector looks for signs of past, or possibly present, leaks or seepage. A slow, intermittent or concealed leak might not be readily apparent at the time of inspection. Minor deficiencies at fixtures can result in interior damage. Caulk and/or grout around fixtures requires periodic maintenance and eventual replacement.

70) Smoke alarm(s) were present. Working smoke alarms, per general safety guidelines, should be put in each bedroom, any adjoining hallways, at every floor level and at enclosed interior staircases that lead to other occupied levels. An inspector does not routinely test, count, or determine that an operable smoke alarm is situated in every required location. Prior to assuming occupancy, clients should further assess alarms. If necessary, add/reposition/upgrade alarms so as to comply with state law and all prevailing safety protocols. All consumer alarms must be installed per manufacturers' specifications and smoke alarms may not be placed in corners. Some fire safety professionals suggest that all smoke alarms should be of the photoelectric type vs. commonly seen ionization alarms that can be slow to react to smoke and fire. For additional information on smoke alarms, please visit: http://goo.gl/e0Ok71

71) The dishwasher: the appliance was noted to have a proper air gap at the drain to prevent graywater returning into the appliance and was properly attached to the cabinetry. No visible defects noted at time of inspection. Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances meets with personal expectations. For additional information on air-gaps, please follow this link: http://goo.gl/IRCL3Y

The inspector is otherwise occupied onsite. Therefore, any assessment of the performance of the dishwasher is limited in scope. I may be unable to determine if it is operating properly. If the device is turned on, at inspector's option, a slow or intermittent leak could go undetected.

72) Toilet(s) inspection: Caulking has not been applied around the base of the toilet. Preferably, an installer will seal the front and sides of a toilet but leave a gap of a few inches at the back. The seal protects against moisture entry and is, also, hygienic in nature. The back of a fixture is left open so, if the wax ring-seal (under a toilet) leaks, a resident will be more likely to detect seepage and seek professional assistance. I recommend further evaluation, and appropriate repairs, with work to be completed by a qualified plumber.

Inspection procedure: Inspector looks for signs of past, or possibly present, leaks or seepage. A non-invasive moisture meter may be employed to check flooring at bases of toilets. Regardless, a slow, intermittent or concealed leak could be undetectable at the time of inspection. Minor deficiencies at toilets can result in interior damage. Depending on belongings present and flush mechanism attachment, inspector might not remove tank lids. Caulking or grout, around bases of toilets, requires periodic maintenance and eventual replacement.

73) Sinks inspection: sinks were functional at time of inspection. Hot and cold water were properly tapped as indicated at the faucets. Shut off valves were noted below sinks, proper P-trap were noted at drains and there was no significant staining or any water damage noted at time of inspection.

Inspection procedure: Inspector looks for signs of past, or possibly present, leaks or seepage. A slow, intermittent or concealed leak may be undetectable at the time of inspection. Minor deficiencies at sinks and piping can result in interior damage. Caulk and/or grout around fixtures requires periodic maintenance and eventual replacement.

74) The nonprofit organization "Consumer Reports," estimates that more than 15 million household products, including kitchen appliances, water heaters, furnaces, electric and gas heaters and fireplaces, wood burning appliances, etc., have been recalled in the past decade. It is not possible for an inspector to identify all potentially recalled consumer items. A user friendly search engine that was created to track, upon entering manufacturer specific data, recalled products is available at: http://goo.gl/Mc3Kcq

Another online tool, helpful when attempting to identify the age of most of the commonly seen kitchen and household appliances, may be accessed at this link: http://goo.gl/S5Wa44

Kitchen appliances are excluded per the state standards of practice. Any comments that reference the age/condition of appliances are offered as a courtesy. The status of appliances can change with little or no warning. Areas beside and/or behind appliances are usually not accessible and any such locations, or associated wiring, plumbing or connections, are excluded. Inspector does not determine compliance with manufacturers' specifications or predict remaining life of any appliance.

75) The refrigerator/freezer: the appliance was turned on and empty at time of inspection. The refrigerator was cold and the freezer was colder. The light came on the refrigerator with the doors opened and the gaskets on the doors were in good condition at time of inspection. Damage was noted to the crisper door inside the refrigerator. I recommend consulting with the plant supplier for replacement.

Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life.
Ice makers and fresh water systems, when present, are excluded. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances and any associated systems meet with personal expectations.

Inspector did not assess the operation or cleanliness of coils, drip pans, appliance lights or the appropriateness of internal temperatures. Appliances will not be unplugged or moved to view connections, water lines or hookups. Periodically, coils, drip pans and interior surfaces require cleaning.

76) The microwave oven: the above range microwave oven was operated using normal controls. The light came on when the door was open or appliance operated, and a cup of water was heated when operated. No defects noted to microwave operation. However ventilation through the microwave appeared to be insufficient. See comments in this section.

Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances meets with personal expectations.

Inspector might turn on the appliance and attempt to heat a cup of water. I do not verify the operation of timers, clocks, appliance lights, or seal/fit of gaskets.

77) The food disposal was turned on. The device was operational at time of inspection, using normal controls i.e. switch on the wall at the left of the sink. No significant staining was noted at the drain connection in the power supply appeared to be properly connected. The average design life of a disposal is 10 to 12 years, actual lifespan may vary. Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Prior to purchase, client(s) are advised to ascertain that the condition (age, cleanliness and functionality) of appliances meets with personal expectations.


Inspection procedure: Inspector might run a disposal to determine if it operates and to check for leaks. I do not put food in a disposal to test grinding capabilities. On occasion, a jammed or bound disposal can be cleared by first turning off the circuit breaker to the device and then inserting a wrench into the underside of the disposal and spinning the mechanism. Any work or repairs to be performed by qualified plumber.

78) The ceiling fan was operable when tested. During the course of an inspection, it is not possible to verify the sufficiency of fan attachment to a ceiling or structure, since any means of attachment is concealed from view. Lights/fixtures, when present at ceiling fans, are excluded. It was noted on site that the ceiling fan could benefit from cleaning.

79) This home has a 24-hour ventilation system that can be set to operate automatically. The timer, located in the main bathroom, will control a simple whole house exhaust fan ventilation system. The purpose is to expel old air and in so doing, as the pressure is equalized, fresh air is drawn into the home. With today's well-insulated homes, this type of ventilation system is installed to reduce condensation and moisture. Typically, the system is set to operate the fan for 8 hours at a time and may be set to go on when it is not disruptive -- during the day or in the middle of the night while one is sleeping. Such devices are noted by the inspector, but they are not assessed as to sufficiency/function, nor is the timer tested. The timers should be set to automatically turn on the exhaust-circulation fan. When the fan runs, and expels old air, interior pressure equalizes and fresh air is drawn into the home. With today's tighter built houses, to reduce interior moisture and humidity, the ventilation exhaust fan should run for at least 8 hours at a time. At new house it suggests running fan 24/7. Placement of fans and controls varies from house to house, but this contractor online video describes the operation of a basic ventilation system: http://youtu.be/GbRBDiqH-Lg

An online video, produced by the NW Clean Air Agency, that describes the operation of a basic ventilation system is available at this link: https://youtu.be/_sEXsr9BJKQ

For general information on how automatic ventilation systems work, please visit:

http://www.energy.wsu.edu/Documents/02-107-Sept05_vent_exhst.pdf
https://www.reporthost.com/?VENTING

To read more about ventilation systems, follow this link: http://goo.gl/628zIg

80) Bathroom exhaust fans were operated at time of inspection and appeared functional. To better control moisture-humidity in baths with tubs and/or showers, I recommend utilizing 60 minute timer switches that are present -- so bath exhaust fans will move air, expel steam, even after occupants have vacated bathrooms. Findings are limited to conditions observed at the time of the inspection. I do not estimate remaining life. Periodically, small fans require cleaning, lubrication or, eventual, motor replacement. Any work to be completed by qualified parties.

A representative number of fans are performance tested. Seldom is it feasible for inspector to verify that every fan is "blowing air" to the outdoors. Ducts might be configured in wyes (restrictive and a less than optimal situation) with more than one fan sharing a single hood. Conditions change, fans and connections should be monitored to make sure that ducts remain attached in attic or substructure areas.

81) Vented windows: Fresh air inlets, controlled at the interior side of double pane vinyl frame windows, should be kept in the "open" position for most of the year. On a seasonal basis, in warm weather, if windows and doors are opened frequently (promoting changes of air) the inlets could be temporarily closed. However, if an air conditioner is in use, leave inlets open year round. Inlets balance air pressure by allowing fresh air into the building when heating, air handling, ventilation and exhaust systems are operating.

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