Website: http://www.kingofthehouse.com
Email: kingofthehouse@comcast.net
Phone: (360) 676-6908
FAX: (360) 734-0174
1609 East Maplewood 
Bellingham, WA 98225
Inspector: Steven L. Smith

 

Samplehome
Client(s):	Janet Doe
Property address:	1445 Mulberry Lane
Inspection date:	November 12, 2004

This report published on 3/9/2008 10:36:41 PM PDT

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King of the House, Inc
Steven L. Smith, President
Certified Home Inspector
Washington State Structural Pest Inspector
License number 69078

Thank you for using King of the House, Inc. for your home inspection. I know your home inspection is very important to you. And your business is very important to me. If I can help in anyway after the inspection, please call or Email me at the Email address or telephone number provided on this report. And, if you are happy with King of the House, Inc. please refer my company to your friends, your realtor and anyone you believe could benefit from my services. King of the House, Inc. not only performs inspections for purchasers, but also for people planning to sell a home who wish to estimate the amount of work that needs to be completed before listing the house.

A home inspection is a visual, and not an exhaustive or invasive, inspection of a home by a trained and impartial inspector. Your King of the House inspection adheres to the standards of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors, an organization that encourages high ethical standards and professionalism in the home inspection industry. To read the standards please visit:

http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm

Steven L. Smith is the team leader, and program coordinator, for the Residential Home Inspection Training Program taught by Bellingham Technical College, an accredited state college. Bellingham Technical College offers these courses across the state. Smith teaches structure, roofing, exterior issues and wood destroying organisms.

This report includes an inspection for wood destroying organisms (WDO'S). More detailed information on this topic, and a suggestion as to how to more effectively use Form 17, the Real Property Transfer Disclosure Statement, is provided under general information. By law the State of Washington mandates that I inspect for, and report on, WDO infestations or conditions that are conducive to attracting WDO's.

Every King of the House, Inc. report includes photos and descriptions detailing the locations of areas of concern as noted by the inspector. Despite the photos and specific information provided, if during this inspection wood destroying organisms or conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms were found, I want you to know: WAC 16-228-2045 REQUIRES THAT A DIAGRAM BE PREPARED FOR WDO INSPECTION REPORTS. A COPY IS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.

SUMMARY: NEAR THE TOP OF THE REPORT YOU MAY CLICK ON A "SUMMARY". THIS WILL SHOW ONLY THE MOST SIGNIFICANT ISSUES WHICH ARE TAKEN FROM THE MAIN REPORT BASED ON PRIORITY. THE SUMMARY LEAVES CONCERNS NUMBERED AS THEY ARE IN THE FULL REPORT, SO THEY ARE EASY TO LOCATE IN THE BODY OF THE REPORT. FOR THIS REASON, THE SUMMARY WILL PROBABLY NOT BE SEQUENTIALLY NUMBERED.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	This recommendation will enhance the safety features of the home. It is not necessarily, although it could be, an urgent condition or an expensive repair or alteration. Often, easy to remedy concerns fall into the broad general category of "safety."
	Repair/Replace	This is a recommended repair. It is not necessarily, but can be on occasion, difficult or costly.
	Repair/Maintain	This is a recommended repair that will also require ongoing upkeep. It is not necessarily, but can be on occasion, difficult or costly.
	Minor defect	This repair is recommended but is typically easy and inexpensive.
	Evaluate	Recommend observation and evaluation by client to determine the degree to which this matter is an issue of personal concern or, if noted, consultation and evaluation by a specialist.
	Comment	This is an informational comment by the inspector.

Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Items of concern relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:

	WDO/WDI Infestation	Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.)
	WDO/WDI Damage	Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.)
	WDO/WDI Conducive conditions	Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

Table of Contents
General information
Exterior
Roof
Attached garage
Electric service
Water heater
Heating and air conditioning
Attic
Plumbing and laundry
Fireplaces,gas fireplaces, wood burning devices
Crawl space
Interior rooms

General information

Return to table of contents

Overview: This is a nicely designed home built ten years ago. Most concerns found during the inspection are issues of deferred maintenance.
Structures inspected: Home and attached garage
Report number: WSDA6021BK111
Time started: 9AM
Time finished: 1:30PM
Present during inspection: Realtor
Occupied: Yes
Age of building: 10 years
Type of building: Single family
Weather conditions: Rain
Temperature: Cool
Ground condition: Wet
Main entrance faces: Approximately west
Foundation type: Walk-in crawl space
The following components, systems or structures are beyond the standards of a home inspection and, as they may apply, are excluded from this inspection: Low voltage outdoor lighting and controls, Water filtration system, aerator or water softener, Security system, built-in sound system or intercom, Fences, Telephone and cable systems,

1)   Furnished home limitations:

This home is furnished; therefore, numerous wall, floor and or ceiling surfaces were obscured by furniture and other items, limiting the inspection of some areas.

2)   Form 17/Limitations:

A home inspection is a visual, and not an exhaustive or invasive, inspection of a home by a trained and impartial inspector. Due to the inherent nature of construction, the inspector cannot see through or into interior walls or siding, through or into concrete slabs or floors, insulation, carpets, roofs and ceilings or down into the soil. Also, a home inspector may not be able to access some areas, due to inadequate clearances or safety hazards. A home inspector, by necessity, is looking for significant issues and not minor or primarily aesthetic concerns. Therefore, it is recommended that the buyer, also, pursue due diligence of his or her own, such as studying Form 17.

Form 17 is required on all real estate transactions conducted in the State of Washington. King of the House, Inc. encourages you to read Form 17, as it is frequently not provided to the home inspector. This crucial disclosure consists of about eighty questions pertaining to the home. By law, a seller is required to disclose on this form many details about the home and property, which may or may not be observable at the time of inspection. For example, the seller's disclosure could reveal hidden but known defects in materials or products used in construction of the home; well or water supply problems; known health or environmental concerns such as mold, underground fuel storage tanks, chemical pollutants, or a history of seasonal water, flooding, pest infestations or fire damage, etc.

3)   Wood Destroying Organisms: The wood destroying organism (WDO) inspection on the home is a good faith effort by the inspector to report the visual signs of WDO infestations. "Conducive conditions", deficiencies at the home or on the premises that can contribute to the likelihood of WDO infestations, will also be reported. Although a serious effort is made, it is not always possible to locate every WDO or conducive condition that may be present at a home. Furthermore, the report only refers to issues seen at the home at the time of the inspection.

THE ONLY WOOD DESTROYING ORGANISM SEEN WAS WOOD DECAY FUNGI (ROT). A NUMBER OF CONDUCIVE CONDITIONS WERE APPARENT AND ALL OF THESE ISSUES WILL BE DESCRIBED IN APPROPRIATE SECTIONS OF THE REPORT.

4) Balcony issues:

Guardrails around the balcony are wobbly and loose. This is a safety concern. Recommend that guardrails be properly secured or that they be replaced.

There is wood decay (rot) evident on the balcony at decking boards and joists. Also, one cross brace, that runs between the columns, has decayed. Recommend removing, as is required, all decayed material and replacing it with sound wood. When repairs are complete, refinish balcony with a preservative/sealant to protect against moisture penetration.

No metal flashing is installed above the deck ledger board. This can allow moisture into the exterior wall. Recommend installing flashing above ledger board to prevent water from entering the space behind it and possibly causing decay. In a related concern, the balcony ledger board is nailed to the house rather than being attached by lag bolts or lag screws. The balcony is nearly 10' high, so it is important that it be secure. Standard building practices, for structures that are higher than 30" off the ground, call for lag bolts or lag screws to secure the ledger board to the home. Recommend installation of lag screws or lag bolts to securely attach ledger board to house.
For more information on building decks and installing flashings and ledger boards, please visit:

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/decks/deck_1.htm

The top of each of the tall 4x4 columns is held in place with a single 2x4 nailed between the column and the beam above. This provides only a minimal positive connection. Since much of this balcony will require repairs, and it is so important that it be secure, recommend that proper positive connections be put in place. At a minimum, this should involve nailing a piece of 2x4 on the other side of each column. Alternatively, as balcony work is done, appropriate steel connectors could be installed to secure 4x4's to the beam. This is a more secure arrangement. Recommend that repairs are completed so as to meet all applicable codes and that all work is performed by a licensed contractor.

Photo 7   Underside decking boards, decay

Photo 28   2x4 nailed over beam on one side Note no positive connection left side of photo

5) While not wide-spread, wood trim on this home, and some wood frames at crawl space vents, have decay (rot). This would include trim wood at the south end of the home, near the exhaust to the gas fireplace. Also, there is fascia decay at the south end of the downspout in front. Under the deck, at the S/E corner, there is a trim piece that appears to be sound but requires maintenance and paint if decay is to be avoided. Recommend qualified contractor locate and remove decayed wood, replace it with sound wood and all conducive conditions to be eliminated. Where applicable, a piece of a shingle or a metal flashing should be put over rafter tails/fascia to direct runoff over the wood which helps prevent decay in the future. To see a photo of a properly installed shingle flashing, and another photo of a barge rafter with no such flashing, please visit:

http://www.geocities.com/rhiclass/facshing.jpg

When repair work is complete, all areas to be caulked and painted to make them water tight.

Photo 1   S/W corner, decay No shingle flashing above

Photo 22   South side trim near gas fireplace vent

6)   The column supporting the front porch roof, because of settling of the porch slab below, is not weight bearing. Hence, the roof is not well- supported. The slab has sunk 1 1/2" to 2" at this side. This is a structural issue that needs to be repaired before the roof sags. Recommend that slab be removed and re-poured or that the process of mud-jacking -- where a concrete slurry is forced under the concrete to raise it -- be employed to remedy the problem. Work to be done by qualified parties, such as concrete and general contractors.

Photo 6   Column is loose, shifts around, supports nothing!

7) Soil is up on, or too close to, siding or trim at a number of locations. Soil against wood or any siding is a conducive condition and leads to decay. Recommend grading soil at a slope ratio of 1" per foot, for 6 feet out from building, so there's no contact between the building and the earth and the slope is such that water is directed away from structure.

Recommend a 6" gap between structure and soil, however people do get by with a 2" gap, as long as they maintain that gap and make sure that soil NEVER touches wood.

Photo 25   South side

8) Some areas of the structure need repainting due to failing paint. Recommend having a qualified painting contractor evaluate, prep (scrape, sand, prime and caulk) properly and repaint where necessary.

9) Gutters contain debris and will not drain properly. Additionally, the slope toward the downspouts on some gutters appears to be incorrect and sloped in the wrong direction. However, as the gutters are currently blocked with debris, it is difficult to ascertain if the gutters will function adequately if they are clean. Uncontrolled water run-off is a conducive condition that can lead to attracting wood destroying organisms. Recommend cleaning all gutters, then see how they work in the rain, or test them with a hose. If they are not sloped enough to quickly drain water, recommend they be adjusted by gutter contractor or contractor.

NOTE: Parts of this roof are extremely high, and wood roofing is slick, so recommend all work in high areas be done by professionals. It is dangerous!

Photo 9   Leaves/debris block gutters

10) Cement-based siding installation has issues. This type of siding should be installed with butt edges to corner boards having a gap of 1/8". However, in many areas the gap at the corners, and between sections of siding, far exceeds recommended distances. The gaps have been filled with thick sections of caulking, which exceeds the distance that can be adequately filled with caulking. This is primarily an issue in back. Additionally, the siding is not securely attached to the sheathing and is loose in many areas. Recommend siding contractor be hired to make necessary repairs.

Photo 13   Wide gap caulked

Photo 14   Not securely fastened and caulked incorrectly

11) Vegetation (plants, trees, shrubs, vines) is in contact with building exterior. This is minimal at this home: east, west, south sides. Recommend pruning vegetation so at least a 2 " gap is maintained (more is better) between plants and the building exterior. This gap allows exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and eliminates easy pathways to the structure for wood destroying insects, such as carpenter ants.

Photo 23

12) Weather strip at bottom, exterior and inside, of front entry door is visibly damaged. Recommend repair by qualified party so door is weather-tight. Otherwise, doors fit well.

13)   Metal snap-ties, used in the pouring of the concrete foundation, are still in place on the exterior of the home on all sides, except the front. Snap-ties rust and that can damage the concrete. Recommend that snap-ties be carefully SNAPPED-OFF. This can be done with a tool such as large pliers.

Photo 19

14)   Sidewalk is cracked near the corner of the garage and may pose a trip hazard. Recommend that clients look at pavement and, if concerned, they should consult with a qualified concrete contractor.

Photo 18

15)   Foundation looks good. There is a minor vertical crack at the west wall. This crack is very small, appears to be a shrinkage crack, and is not a structural issue.

16) Flashing over small roof, with gas fireplace vent in the center, is improperly installed at the top. The flashing should go under and behind the siding. At the west edge the metal is hanging out from under the siding. This can allow water under the flashing and that can lead to damage of the wall. Recommend that a roofing professional be called in to repair the flashing.

Photo 8   Metal extended from under siding South side

17) Wood roofs, both shingles and shakes, are natural products. Their life span is listed at 20-40 years. In the case of a roof, a home inspector looks to see how much wear is visible. In most cases the home inspector will try to avoid walking on a wood roof unless it is absolutely necessary. The roof at this home is in need of professional cleaning. The shakes are developing a green fungus or algae. While not extensive yet, over time this will degrade them and shorten the life expectancy. I did not detect decay in the shakes, but a few of them had splits. The slope on this roof was better than 5/12 which is good. A view from the attic showed that the shakes were applied over roofing felts in a system known as skip-sheathing. Basically, it is my view that all areas of the roof I could view were in satisfactory condition. BUT, this roof is at a point where, if it does not receive attention, it will soon begin to degrade from fungal growth and lack of attention. Therefore, recommend qualified roofer, with experience with wood roofs, come in to clean and make any repairs or improvement deemed to be necessary, which might include replacing some split or damaged shakes or applying a finish treatment to protect the roof as long as is possible.

Note: Do not recommend ever pressure-washing wood roofs!

Photo 17   Fungus forming

18)   There is a breach in the fire wall between the garage and the attic. There should be no air gaps into, nor unprotected wood members that extend into, the attic area. This safeguards against exhaust from a running car ending up in the attic and also prevents a fire that starts in the garage from "drawing" into the attic. As it is, the gaps would allow exhaust into the attic and also a fire might follow the wood members back into the attic. Essentially, there should be no gaps into the attic and any wood structure that is in the garage, should be protected by sheetrock that provides a 20-minute fire rating. Work to be done by a qualified party.

Photo 12   Gap straight into the attic Wood members go from garage ceiling into the attic

19)   The garage vehicle door doesn't "auto-reverse". The door should reverse when closing when it strikes something or when something passes through the "sensor eye" at the base of the door. Failure to auto-reverse is a safety hazard, especially for small children. Recommend having a qualified garage door contractor evaluate and repair as necessary. The sensor eye does function, but not auto reverse. For information on garage door safety please visit:

http://childcare.net/library/garagedoorsafety.shtml

20) Wood sectional overhead door has decay evident, both inside and at the exterior. Recommend having a garage door professional replace the door. Alternatively, clients could attempt to clean it, scrape it and paint or finish it in an effort to get additional life from the door.

Photo 11   Inside -- obvious moisture penetration

21)   The garage inspection is limited in scope, with some areas excluded due to lack of either access or visibility, due to stored items, automobiles, tools, etc.

22)   Nice slope of driveway, away from the garage, which is beneficial in reducing chances of moisture intrusion. There are minor, cosmetic only, cracks in the concrete floor of the garage.

23)   Inadequate access/clearance exists at the main service panel. This panel has a permanent shelf in front of it. While the inspector did take the screws out of the shelf, and remove the panel cover, in the current state it does not meet safety guidelines. A panel must be easily accessible. Recommend eliminating or modifying shelving so the following requirements are met.

* An open area 30- 36" exists in front of the panel
* The panel is at a convenient, eye level, height
* There's at least 6'3" of headroom
* The wall below the panel is clear to the floor, not used for heavy
storage of belongings

Photo 3

24)   Double-tapping was observed at two circuit breakers in the main breaker panel. These breakers appear to be designed to accommodate only one wire under the lug. (UL) Underwriters Laboratories has identified this as a safety hazard since the conductors are likely to loosen which could lead to arcing or even a fire. Further evaluation and repair to be made by a licensed electrician. For additional information on this topic, please visit:

http://www.electricianpdq.com/realtors/

Photo 34   Double-taps

25)   Unprotected, surface-run, non-metallic sheathed wiring is visible in garage wall cavities. This soft insulation is vulnerable to nicks and damage from common tools. Recommend that the exposed cables be properly protected/covered by completing the sheetrock job. Alternatively, they could also be placed in proper conduits.

Photo 26

26)   Electrical notes:

GFCI outlets, that protect against shocks, were properly installed in those locations where they are required: outdoors, in the garage, near sinks and in bathrooms. All outlets and lights were tested and all of them operated correctly.

27) Temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed outside, but it is buried in the dirt. Pipe should be cut shorter to get it farther off the ground, minimum of 6". This is an important safety feature that will not function if the TPR drain is buried.

Photo 21   It could be cut about there! It must be below siding, above dirt.

28) This water heater has extensive rust at the flue and steel nipples have been, improperly so, used in the supply and outlet lines. As a result of the dis-similar metals being in contact, galvanic action has taken place and there is significant corrosion at the fittings. This tank is beyond it's design life. Recommend that clients plan to replace this tank soon.

Photo 27   White=rusty flue Yellow=corrosion from dis-similar metals

29)   Water heater, properly so, has seismic straps that help stabilize it in the event of an earthquake.

30)   Supplemental heat in the kitchen is supplied by a fan-assisted wall heater. The lower edge of the heater is mounted below the hardwood floor. This is unsafe. The heater, at the time of the inspection, was putting out temperatures that peaked as high as 240 degrees. Wood ignites at 450 degrees; however, wood continually exposed to heat over a long period of time is altered so it can ignite at much lower temperatures. That is called pyrolysis. That would be a real concern here. Recommend repair/replacement/evaluation by a qualified party, such as a licensed electrician. For additional information on the phenomenon of pyrolysis, please visit:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/353183/Birch-Bay-Home-Inspector

Photo 35   Temperature reading at floor and heater

31)   Forced air furnaces have a life expectancy of 15-20 years. Statistically, this furnace should have a few years left, but there is an accumulation of debris inside. This debris is white condensate, which can be a sign of poor draw or poor venting of the appliance. To maintain the appliance, and for safety, recommend that this unit be cleaned and serviced by a qualified HVAC professional. Recommend that, in the future, this servicing be done annually but certainly at intervals not to exceed every two years.

Photo 10   Extensive debris and condensate

32)   Inspector checked heat supply ducts and all of them satisfactorily supplied heat. Additionally, a carbon monoxide test was run on the furnace while it was operating. No CO detected, normal. However, a routine safety test for CO is not a substitute for professional service, therefore recommend service of furnace as stated above.

Photo 31   All supply registers were tested

Photo 32   CO normal

33)   The insulation in this attic is resting around the metal B-vent. A B-vent can achieve temperatures of 300 degrees when propane gas appliances are operating. Therefore, insulation, including fiberglass, should be 1" of space minimum away from a B-vent to eliminate the hazard of a fire. This is accomplished by removing insulation around the vent and installing a sheet metal insulation collar that fully shields the vent. This leaves an open space, or air barrier, from the vent to the insulation. Recommend that insulation be properly held back, to provide combustible clearances, by metal insulation collar or another means. For more information on this matter please visit:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/248619/Issue-Clarified-B-vent

Photo 30

34)   Flex-duct for heating has inadequate support. Flex-duct should be supported every 5' or less. Recommend proper support be provided for flex-duct in the attic.

Photo 2

35)   Manufactured trusses, such as in this home, are designed by structural engineers and based on proven performance standards. As a result, a home inspector does not question the use of the truss but views it to see if he or she can tell if it has been modified (typically cut) in a manner that will structurally weaken it. Because trusses are designed for specific loads, truss manufacturers recommend that they not be walked on (even by home inspectors) except in unusual circumstances.

NO DEFECTS NOTED.

36)   The clothes dryer is equipped with a plastic (vinyl) or foil, accordion-type, flexible duct behind the dryer. These do operate, but can lead to an accumulation of lint that can lead to a fire. Additionally, this dryer is at the west side of the home, and the actual vent hood is on the east side. Therefore, this is a long run. Recommend that all of the dryer system be kept very clean, to avoid a fire hazard. Also, client may wish to replace flexible ducts with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

37)   Main water shut-off and water pipes in garage at N/W corner are wrapped with towels and other home-made insulators. Recommend these pipes be wrapped properly, to prevent freezing, with commercial pipe wrap from a home store.

Photo 24

38)   Public water and sewer, per realtor

39)   Washing machine and dryer not inspected. Realtor said they were not part of the purchase. Laundry area is plumbed and there is wiring for a 240 volt electric dryer. There is no gas connection for a gas dryer at this time.

40)   The gas fireplace, Canadian Heating Products, model E34DV, did not operate using normal controls. Recommend repair and service by an HVAC professional. In the future, if unit is used only occasionally primarily for aesthetics or ambiance, heating professionals recommend it be serviced about every three years. If it is being used heavily, as a primary heat source, it should be serviced annually, as if it were a furnace. These units, like furnaces, last longer, are more efficient and safer when regularly maintained by heating professionals.

41) Vapor barrier needs repair, or more material added in a few areas, such as between pier pads and by the entry. Recommend positioning vapor barrier so all soil is covered in crawl space. This helps reduce the chance of attracting WDO's. Hold it down with bricks or stones, not wood or even pressure treated wood. If repair, or additional material is required, recommend using 6 mil polyethylene with seams overlapped at least 24".

42) Cardboard forms have been left on the concrete pier footings. This is a conducive condition in that cellulose material can be food for wood destroying organisms. Recommend removing as much of the cardboard as is possible. It pulls off better if it is dampened. I checked this cardboard, and it seemed to pull of quickly without much trouble.

Photo 4

43) There is a plumbing leak in the crawl space. This is coming from around the main toilet in the bathroom. The toilet, in that room above, is plugged (as are other fixtures -- see "interior" section). However, this significant leak also indicates failure of the wax ring that seals the toilet to the floor flange. Recommend immediate repair of this leak and also that toilet be lifted and re-seated on flange by a licensed plumber.

Photo 20   Toilet leak

44)   There are twenty 4x4 columns attached to beams. For a positive connection at the top, ten of them have 2x4's nailed to each side. The other ten have a single 2x4. At the least, the ten with only one 2x4 connector should have another 2x4 nailed on the opposite side. The best arrangement (as described in "exterior" under the balcony) would involve steel connectors made for attaching 4x4's to beams. This is a much more secure arrangement with long columns, should there be a seismic event. Recommend that proper positive connections be established by a licensed contractor.

Photo 5   One 2x4 connector first column Two 2x4 connectors back column

45) There is conducive wood debris or scraps in the crawl space. The state considers any cellulose material, which is not structural lumber serving a purpose, to be "conducive debris." Recommend non-structural wood be removed from the crawl space to avoid attracting wood destroying organisms.

46)   Flex-duct from the furnace, at the S/E corner, would benefit from more support. Supports should be no more than 5 feet apart. The span here is much greater than that. Recommend having a qualified party put more supports on the flex -ducts.

Photo 16

47)   Home has bolts at the foundation and the sill plate. This is beneficial as bolts help secure a home to the foundation during a seismic event.

48) Master bath issues:

As noted in the crawl space section, there is a plumbing leak around the toilet. This leak is leading to lots of water ending up on the bathroom floor. Recommend repair as described in "crawl space" section above.

The drain in the bath tub is plugged as well, likely related to the same problem. When inspected, the drain plug, which is supposed to be mechanically attached to tub, came off in my hand. Recommend consultation with and repair of all these issues by a licensed plumber.

49) Half bath issues:

After flushing the toilet, moisture readings around it were more than 2x what they were on the floor only a foot away. This indicates a leak from around the wax ring that seals the toilet at the flange. Recommend repair by a plumber when other plumbing issues are resolved.

Slow drain in bath sink. Recommend P-trap be cleaned. This problem does not appear to be related to the problem with plugged drains in the kitchen or the main bath, as was reported elsewhere.

Photo 33   20% reading -- high!

50)   Kitchen issues:

When dishwasher was run, kitchen sink could not keep up with the water. Instead, as water drained from dishwasher, it backed-up into kitchen sink. Again, likely related to other plugged drain issues described elsewhere. Recommend drains be cleaned and repair by a licensed plumber.

Photo 15   Kitchen sink drain slow to almost fully blocked

51)   Inspector has viewed walls, ceilings, doors, carpets, floors, cupboards, countertops, sinks, tubs, etc. Unless specifically noted, these features appear to be serviceable. A home inspector is looking for significant issues and is not expected to cite primarily cosmetic concerns or minute flaws. However, as the design and appearance of interior decor is important to a buyer and largely a matter of personal taste, recommend that buyer does a walk through of home, prior to closing, to make sure that the interior meets expectations.

52)   Kitchen appliances:

Kenmore electric range. All burners and both elements heated.

Kenmore dishwasher. Operated with no visible leaks.

Broan range hood fan was operated and was satisfactory.

Refrigerator and microwave were not tested. Realtor said they are not part of the sale.

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Home Maintenance Check List

Monthly:

1. Clean dishwasher filter(if provided), usually at lower spray arm.
2. Purge garbage disposal by first filling kitchen sink with clean water, then turn on food disposer until water is drained through.
3. Change/clean air conditioning return filters monthly. This will help keep your air cleaner and system running more efficiently. Clogged air filters will make your system operate longer than required, thereby increasing your monthly bills.
4. Wash refrigerator/freezer interior walls and door liner with solution of 1 quart warm water: 2 tablespoons of baking soda, and wipe dry.
5. Vacuum and clean all return air ducts/grills.
6. Inspect lighting fixtures and replace blown light bulbs.
7. Clean clothes drier lint traps and or ducts to reduce fire risk.
8. Clean toaster oven crumb tray.

Quarterly:

1.Inspect exterior doors to ensure they are weather tight. Adjust or replace weather stripping as needed.
2. Service doors(incl. garage doors) and drawers, clean and lubricate latches, hinges and guides.
3. Inspect and repair exterior caulking around windows, doors, and siding.
4. Replace/clean central heating system(furnace) filters.
5. Re-tighten knobs on kitchen cabinets, don't overtighten.

Semi-Annually:

1. Have heating and air conditioning systems inspected and serviced by licensed contractor.
2. Inspect and test smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors and replace back up batteries.
3. Check (GFCI)ground fault interrupted circuits. Test if grounded and correct polarity.
4. Inspect and maintain proper drainage around home. Clean gutters and down-pipes and ensure water is flowing away from your home.
5. Inspect home for rodent droppings or other pests. Have home treated as needed.
6. Test sump pump for reliable operation, especially before any rainy season.
7. Wash fan housing and metal filter connected to range hood exhaust fans. These can be safely washed by placing them inside the dishwasher.
8. Vacuum coils behind refrigerator/freezer to remove dust, this will improve efficiency of unit.
9. Tap off a bucket of water from the hot water heater until it runs clean.

Annually:

1. Inspect and repair settling cracks (if necessary).
2. Inspect and lubricate garage door tracks.
3. Inspect exterior paint for cracking and wear. Repaint or seal as needed.
4. Drain and refill water heater.
5. Trip main breaker on electric panel.
6. Inspect all electric cords and replace if necessary.
7. Inspect attic for water damage, birds, and rodents.
8. Inspect all electrical cords and replace if necessary.
9. Inspect basement for moisture/mold and wood rot.
10. Inspect attic for signs of roof leaks or water damage, bird nests, rodent or squirrel nests, and clean if necessary.
11. Change water filters and have water softeners serviced.
12. Inspect roof flashings, chimney caps, shingles(for mold and damage) and caulking for possible damage.
13. Pressure wash deck, walkways and driveway.
14. Reseal wood decks with preservative and inspect and secure nails that may be protruding out. Nails have a tendency to pop out after very cold weather conditions.
15. Clean or replace oil filter(oil fired burner only).
16. Inspect outside electrical service feeder for exposed bare wires and tree interference.
17. Inspect basement/crawl space area for signs of termites and/or other wood-boring insects.
18. Use hose to wash off dirt from coil and fan in heat pump/condenser locate outside of house.
19. Inspect all hoses(and replace if necessary) connected to laundry washer unit.
20. Clean and seal ceramic tile grout lines in bathrooms/toilets/kitchen.
21. Check caulking at tub and shower, and replace if necessary.
22. Wash and blow clean bathroom exhaust fan grill and fan blades.
23. Wash windows(exterior and interior), screens, seals and ledges. Repair if necessary.
24. Clean and lubricate sliding glass door tracks and window tracks.
25. Check stucco joints around doors and windows.
26. Inspect the dishwasher's motor motor spin seal, and replace if necessary.
27. Inspect laundry washer water fill hoses for cracks, blisters, corroded fittings and leaks.
28. Place beeswax or paraffin on built-in kitchen cabinets that have wooden guides.
29. Inspect for creosote deposits in the fireplace flue liner, these are black or brown residue of combustion that collects on the inner surfaces. If the build up is more than 1/8 inch, remove it.
30. Vacuum around the gas hot water heater(especially near furnace) to remove dirt and grime.

Tips for clogged drains:

Keeping the Drains Clear:
1. By pouring a pot of hot water down the drain once a week will melt away any fat or grease that may have built up in the drain line or P-trap.
2. If you have a clogged drain, just pour a 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/2 cup of white vinegar down the drain. Cover the drain and let the mixture sit for a few minutes, then pour a pot of hot water down the drain. This will break down fats and also keep the drains smelling fresh.
3. Every six months, keep your drains clean by using a copper sulfide or sodium hydroxide-based drain cleaner, or other recommended drain cleaner available from your local store.

Other safety tips:

Ensure that you know where the following items are located:
1. Emergency contact telephone numbers.
2. Fire extinguishers and water hose pipes.
3. Heating gas/fuel main shutoff valve.
4. Main electrical disconnect circuit breaker(breaker box/service panel).
5. Main drain line clean-out.
6. Main water shut off valve.
7. All window and door exits.

In addition to the above, carry out the following monthly safety checks:
Some of these items may have already be included in the home maintenance list, but these monthly safety checks are advisable for safety reasons:
1. Test ground fault circuit interrupter receptacles(GFCI's).
2. Test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, replace batteries if necessary.
3. Inspect and lubricate (if necessary) all emergency exits, including windows and doors.
4. Inspection of heating unit and water heater for visual integrity.

Home appliance estimated life spans:

1.Dishwasher water valves: 3-7 years
2.Range and oven: 18-20 years
3.Garbage disposal: 10 years
4.Microwave: 10 years
5.Refrigerator: 18-20 years
6.Laundry washer: 14 years
7.Laundry drier: 14 years
8.Refrigerator/Freezer: 18-20 years
9.Central air conditioner system: 15 years
10.Window mounted air conditioning system: 8 years
11.Bathtub/Sink: 50 years
12.Garage door opener: 10 years
13.Laundry water fill hoses: 3-5 years
14.Trash compactor: 10 years

Energy saving web-sites:

Perhaps you never thought of your home as a likely place to save you a lot of money, but it is. Most homes are far from being energy-efficient. That means if you are using more energy than you have to, you are also paying higher monthly bills than necessary. By checking out the following energy saving web-sites, you will be able to gain some wise energy saving ideas that you will be able to put to use right away. You can do many of them yourself, others may require the services of a licensed contractor:

http://www.dom.com/customer/efficiency/res/home/indoor
http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america
http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide
http://www.efficientwindows.org

Thanks for using:

King of the House, Inc.
Steven L. Smith, President
Certified home inspector
WSDA Structural Pest Inspector
License No. 69078

(360) 676-6908


www.kingofthehouse.com
kingofthehouse@comcast.net