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Summary Page

Samplehome
Client(s):	Janet Doe
Property address:	1445 Mulberry Lane
Inspection date:	November 12, 2004

This summary page published on 11/22/2009 2:03:57 PM PST

This is not the complete report. This is the report summary. The concerns listed here are, in the inspector's opinion, more likely to be the higher priority issues that require immediate attention. This summary is not numerically sequential as it plucks descriptions from the full report but leaves them at the same number they had in the full report. Since a client might put more priority on some concerns, that might seem routine to an inspector, the non-summary items should not be ignored. The client should read the full report.

Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Cautionary	A recommendation to enhance safety. Not necessarily urgent.
	Repair/Replace	A recommended repair.
	Repair/Maintain	A recommended repair that will also require ongoing upkeep.
	Minor defect	A minor concern but not necessarily unimportant.
	Evaluate	Client to determine level of personal concern or, if noted, consult with a specialist.
	Informational	Informational in nature but might include recommendations for small repairs or upgrades.

 

	Infestation	Evidence of the presence of, or damage from, wood destroying organisms
	Damage	Damage caused by weathering, deterioration or wood destroying organisms
	Conducive conditions	A condition that may attract wood destroying organisms (Wood-soil contact, water leaks, etc.)

Exterior
4) - Balcony issues:

Guardrails around the balcony are wobbly and loose. This is a safety concern. Recommend that guardrails be properly secured or that they be replaced.

There is wood decay (rot) evident on the balcony at decking boards and joists. Also, one cross brace, that runs between the columns, has decayed. Recommend removing, as is required, all decayed material and replacing it with sound wood. When repairs are complete, refinish balcony with a preservative/sealant to protect against moisture penetration.

No metal flashing is installed above the deck ledger board. This can allow moisture into the exterior wall. Recommend installing flashing above ledger board to prevent water from entering the space behind it and possibly causing decay. In a related concern, the balcony ledger board is nailed to the house rather than being attached by lag bolts or lag screws. The balcony is nearly 10' high, so it is important that it be secure. Standard building practices, for structures that are higher than 30" off the ground, call for lag bolts or lag screws to secure the ledger board to the home. Recommend installation of lag screws or lag bolts to securely attach ledger board to house.
For more information on building decks and installing flashings and ledger boards, please visit:

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/decks/deck_1.htm

The top of each of the tall 4x4 columns is held in place with a single 2x4 nailed between the column and the beam above. This provides only a minimal positive connection. Since much of this balcony will require repairs, and it is so important that it be secure, recommend that proper positive connections be put in place. At a minimum, this should involve nailing a piece of 2x4 on the other side of each column. Alternatively, as balcony work is done, appropriate steel connectors could be installed to secure 4x4's to the beam. This is a more secure arrangement. Recommend that repairs are completed so as to meet all applicable codes and that all work is performed by a licensed contractor.
5) - While not wide-spread, wood trim on this home, and some wood frames at crawl space vents, have decay (rot). This would include trim wood at the south end of the home, near the exhaust to the gas fireplace. Also, there is fascia decay at the south end of the downspout in front. Under the deck, at the S/E corner, there is a trim piece that appears to be sound but requires maintenance and paint if decay is to be avoided. Recommend qualified contractor locate and remove decayed wood, replace it with sound wood and all conducive conditions to be eliminated. Where applicable, a piece of a shingle or a metal flashing should be put over rafter tails/fascia to direct runoff over the wood which helps prevent decay in the future. To see a photo of a properly installed shingle flashing, and another photo of a barge rafter with no such flashing, please visit:

http://www.geocities.com/rhiclass/facshing.jpg

When repair work is complete, all areas to be caulked and painted to make them water tight.
6) - The column supporting the front porch roof, because of settling of the porch slab below, is not weight bearing. Hence, the roof is not well- supported. The slab has sunk 1 1/2" to 2" at this side. This is a structural issue that needs to be repaired before the roof sags. Recommend that slab be removed and re-poured or that the process of mud-jacking -- where a concrete slurry is forced under the concrete to raise it -- be employed to remedy the problem. Work to be done by qualified parties, such as concrete and general contractors.
7) - Soil is up on, or too close to, siding or trim at a number of locations. Soil against wood or any siding is a conducive condition and leads to decay. Recommend grading soil at a slope ratio of 1" per foot, for 6 feet out from building, so there's no contact between the building and the earth and the slope is such that water is directed away from structure.

Recommend a 6" gap between structure and soil, however people do get by with a 2" gap, as long as they maintain that gap and make sure that soil NEVER touches wood.
8) - Some areas of the structure need repainting due to failing paint. Recommend having a qualified painting contractor evaluate, prep (scrape, sand, prime and caulk) properly and repaint where necessary.
9) - Gutters contain debris and will not drain properly. Additionally, the slope toward the downspouts on some gutters appears to be incorrect and sloped in the wrong direction. However, as the gutters are currently blocked with debris, it is difficult to ascertain if the gutters will function adequately if they are clean. Uncontrolled water run-off is a conducive condition that can lead to attracting wood destroying organisms. Recommend cleaning all gutters, then see how they work in the rain, or test them with a hose. If they are not sloped enough to quickly drain water, recommend they be adjusted by gutter contractor or contractor.

NOTE: Parts of this roof are extremely high, and wood roofing is slick, so recommend all work in high areas be done by professionals. It is dangerous!
10) - Cement-based siding installation has issues. This type of siding should be installed with butt edges to corner boards having a gap of 1/8". However, in many areas the gap at the corners, and between sections of siding, far exceeds recommended distances. The gaps have been filled with thick sections of caulking, which exceeds the distance that can be adequately filled with caulking. This is primarily an issue in back. Additionally, the siding is not securely attached to the sheathing and is loose in many areas. Recommend siding contractor be hired to make necessary repairs.
14) - Sidewalk is cracked near the corner of the garage and may pose a trip hazard. Recommend that clients look at pavement and, if concerned, they should consult with a qualified concrete contractor.

Roof
16) - Flashing over small roof, with gas fireplace vent in the center, is improperly installed at the top. The flashing should go under and behind the siding. At the west edge the metal is hanging out from under the siding. This can allow water under the flashing and that can lead to damage of the wall. Recommend that a roofing professional be called in to repair the flashing.
17) - Wood roofs, both shingles and shakes, are natural products. Their life span is listed at 20-40 years. In the case of a roof, a home inspector looks to see how much wear is visible. In most cases the home inspector will try to avoid walking on a wood roof unless it is absolutely necessary. The roof at this home is in need of professional cleaning. The shakes are developing a green fungus or algae. While not extensive yet, over time this will degrade them and shorten the life expectancy. I did not detect decay in the shakes, but a few of them had splits. The slope on this roof was better than 5/12 which is good. A view from the attic showed that the shakes were applied over roofing felts in a system known as skip-sheathing. Basically, it is my view that all areas of the roof I could view were in satisfactory condition. BUT, this roof is at a point where, if it does not receive attention, it will soon begin to degrade from fungal growth and lack of attention. Therefore, recommend qualified roofer, with experience with wood roofs, come in to clean and make any repairs or improvement deemed to be necessary, which might include replacing some split or damaged shakes or applying a finish treatment to protect the roof as long as is possible.

Note: Do not recommend ever pressure-washing wood roofs!

Attached garage
18) - There is a breach in the fire wall between the garage and the attic. There should be no air gaps into, nor unprotected wood members that extend into, the attic area. This safeguards against exhaust from a running car ending up in the attic and also prevents a fire that starts in the garage from "drawing" into the attic. As it is, the gaps would allow exhaust into the attic and also a fire might follow the wood members back into the attic. Essentially, there should be no gaps into the attic and any wood structure that is in the garage, should be protected by sheetrock that provides a 20-minute fire rating. Work to be done by a qualified party.
19) - The garage vehicle door doesn't "auto-reverse". The door should reverse when closing when it strikes something or when something passes through the "sensor eye" at the base of the door. Failure to auto-reverse is a safety hazard, especially for small children. Recommend having a qualified garage door contractor evaluate and repair as necessary. The sensor eye does function, but not auto reverse. For information on garage door safety please visit:

http://childcare.net/library/garagedoorsafety.shtml
20) - Wood sectional overhead door has decay evident, both inside and at the exterior. Recommend having a garage door professional replace the door. Alternatively, clients could attempt to clean it, scrape it and paint or finish it in an effort to get additional life from the door.

Electric service
23) - Inadequate access/clearance exists at the main service panel. This panel has a permanent shelf in front of it. While the inspector did take the screws out of the shelf, and remove the panel cover, in the current state it does not meet safety guidelines. A panel must be easily accessible. Recommend eliminating or modifying shelving so the following requirements are met.

* An open area 30- 36" exists in front of the panel
* The panel is at a convenient, eye level, height
* There's at least 6'3" of headroom
* The wall below the panel is clear to the floor, not used for heavy
storage of belongings
24) - Double-tapping was observed at two circuit breakers in the main breaker panel. These breakers appear to be designed to accommodate only one wire under the lug. (UL) Underwriters Laboratories has identified this as a safety hazard since the conductors are likely to loosen which could lead to arcing or even a fire. Further evaluation and repair to be made by a licensed electrician. For additional information on this topic, please visit:

http://www.electricianpdq.com/realtors/
25) - Unprotected, surface-run, non-metallic sheathed wiring is visible in garage wall cavities. This soft insulation is vulnerable to nicks and damage from common tools. Recommend that the exposed cables be properly protected/covered by completing the sheetrock job. Alternatively, they could also be placed in proper conduits.

Water heater
27) - Temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed outside, but it is buried in the dirt. Pipe should be cut shorter to get it farther off the ground, minimum of 6". This is an important safety feature that will not function if the TPR drain is buried.
28) - This water heater has extensive rust at the flue and steel nipples have been, improperly so, used in the supply and outlet lines. As a result of the dis-similar metals being in contact, galvanic action has taken place and there is significant corrosion at the fittings. This tank is beyond it's design life. Recommend that clients plan to replace this tank soon.

Heating and air conditioning
30) - Supplemental heat in the kitchen is supplied by a fan-assisted wall heater. The lower edge of the heater is mounted below the hardwood floor. This is unsafe. The heater, at the time of the inspection, was putting out temperatures that peaked as high as 240 degrees. Wood ignites at 450 degrees; however, wood continually exposed to heat over a long period of time is altered so it can ignite at much lower temperatures. That is called pyrolysis. That would be a real concern here. Recommend repair/replacement/evaluation by a qualified party, such as a licensed electrician. For additional information on the phenomenon of pyrolysis, please visit:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/353183/Birch-Bay-Home-Inspector
31) - Forced air furnaces have a life expectancy of 15-20 years. Statistically, this furnace should have a few years left, but there is an accumulation of debris inside. This debris is white condensate, which can be a sign of poor draw or poor venting of the appliance. To maintain the appliance, and for safety, recommend that this unit be cleaned and serviced by a qualified HVAC professional. Recommend that, in the future, this servicing be done annually but certainly at intervals not to exceed every two years.

Attic
33) - The insulation in this attic is resting around the metal B-vent. A B-vent can achieve temperatures of 300 degrees when propane gas appliances are operating. Therefore, insulation, including fiberglass, should be 1" of space minimum away from a B-vent to eliminate the hazard of a fire. This is accomplished by removing insulation around the vent and installing a sheet metal insulation collar that fully shields the vent. This leaves an open space, or air barrier, from the vent to the insulation. Recommend that insulation be properly held back, to provide combustible clearances, by metal insulation collar or another means. For more information on this matter please visit:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/248619/Issue-Clarified-B-vent

Plumbing and laundry
36) - The clothes dryer is equipped with a plastic (vinyl) or foil, accordion-type, flexible duct behind the dryer. These do operate, but can lead to an accumulation of lint that can lead to a fire. Additionally, this dryer is at the west side of the home, and the actual vent hood is on the east side. Therefore, this is a long run. Recommend that all of the dryer system be kept very clean, to avoid a fire hazard. Also, client may wish to replace flexible ducts with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

Fireplaces,gas fireplaces, wood burning devices
40) - The gas fireplace, Canadian Heating Products, model E34DV, did not operate using normal controls. Recommend repair and service by an HVAC professional. In the future, if unit is used only occasionally primarily for aesthetics or ambiance, heating professionals recommend it be serviced about every three years. If it is being used heavily, as a primary heat source, it should be serviced annually, as if it were a furnace. These units, like furnaces, last longer, are more efficient and safer when regularly maintained by heating professionals.

Crawl space
41) - Vapor barrier needs repair, or more material added in a few areas, such as between pier pads and by the entry. Recommend positioning vapor barrier so all soil is covered in crawl space. This helps reduce the chance of attracting WDO's. Hold it down with bricks or stones, not wood or even pressure treated wood. If repair, or additional material is required, recommend using 6 mil polyethylene with seams overlapped at least 24".
42) - Cardboard forms have been left on the concrete pier footings. This is a conducive condition in that cellulose material can be food for wood destroying organisms. Recommend removing as much of the cardboard as is possible. It pulls off better if it is dampened. I checked this cardboard, and it seemed to pull of quickly without much trouble.
43) - There is a plumbing leak in the crawl space. This is coming from around the main toilet in the bathroom. The toilet, in that room above, is plugged (as are other fixtures -- see "interior" section). However, this significant leak also indicates failure of the wax ring that seals the toilet to the floor flange. Recommend immediate repair of this leak and also that toilet be lifted and re-seated on flange by a licensed plumber.
44) - There are twenty 4x4 columns attached to beams. For a positive connection at the top, ten of them have 2x4's nailed to each side. The other ten have a single 2x4. At the least, the ten with only one 2x4 connector should have another 2x4 nailed on the opposite side. The best arrangement (as described in "exterior" under the balcony) would involve steel connectors made for attaching 4x4's to beams. This is a much more secure arrangement with long columns, should there be a seismic event. Recommend that proper positive connections be established by a licensed contractor.

Interior rooms
48) - Master bath issues:

As noted in the crawl space section, there is a plumbing leak around the toilet. This leak is leading to lots of water ending up on the bathroom floor. Recommend repair as described in "crawl space" section above.

The drain in the bath tub is plugged as well, likely related to the same problem. When inspected, the drain plug, which is supposed to be mechanically attached to tub, came off in my hand. Recommend consultation with and repair of all these issues by a licensed plumber.
49) - Half bath issues:

After flushing the toilet, moisture readings around it were more than 2x what they were on the floor only a foot away. This indicates a leak from around the wax ring that seals the toilet at the flange. Recommend repair by a plumber when other plumbing issues are resolved.

Slow drain in bath sink. Recommend P-trap be cleaned. This problem does not appear to be related to the problem with plugged drains in the kitchen or the main bath, as was reported elsewhere.
50) - Kitchen issues:

When dishwasher was run, kitchen sink could not keep up with the water. Instead, as water drained from dishwasher, it backed-up into kitchen sink. Again, likely related to other plugged drain issues described elsewhere. Recommend drains be cleaned and repair by a licensed plumber.