Website: http://www.kingofthehouse.com
Email: kingofthehouse@comcast.net
Inspector's email: steven-l-smith@comcast.net
Phone: (360) 676-6908

Summary Page

Sample II WSDA 0199BK000
Client(s):	John Q. Public
Property address:	4300 Mayne Street
Inspection date:	12/28/2004

This summary page published on 11/3/2011 2:59:40 PM PDT

This is not the complete report. This is the report summary. The concerns listed here are, in the inspector's opinion, more likely to be the higher priority issues that require immediate attention. This summary is not numerically sequential as it plucks descriptions from the full report but leaves them at the same number they had in the full report. Since a client might put more priority on some concerns, that might seem routine to an inspector, the non-summary items should not be ignored. The client should read the full report.

Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Cautionary	A recommendation to enhance safety. Not necessarily urgent
	Replace/Repair	Plan on replacement, or repair, with work to be done by qualified parties
	Repair/Maintain	A recommended repair that might involve ongoing upkeep with work to be done by qualified parties
	Review/Evaluate	Qualified professional to service/repair/evaluate or, as applicable, clients to determine their level of personal concern
	Maintenance/Service (repair)	Requires maintenance, professional service or appropriate repair
	On-site notes	Observations, comments or suggestions noted by the inspector
	Informational	Informational in nature but might include recommendations for small repairs or upgrades

 

	Infestation	Evidence of the presence of, or damage from, wood destroying insects
	Damage	Damage caused by weathering, deterioration, de-lamination, wood decay or other wood destroying organisms
	Conducive conditions	A condition that may attract wood destroying organisms (Wood-soil contact, water leaks, etc.)

Site and Exterior
6) - The old wood gutters are rotted, leaking and loose. Metal downspouts are rusted and leaking as well. Recommend having a qualified gutter and downspout contractor install new gutters and downspouts. Also recommend installing extensions such as splashblocks, where necessary at downspouts, to carry rain water away from the house.
7) - Some areas of structural material, under the soffit, siding and trim are decayed and the paint is failing in a number of locations. Recommend that a qualified party locate and remove all damaged wood. Replace it with sound material. Then have a qualified painting contractor prep (scrape, sand, prime and caulk) and repaint the entire home.
8) - The corrugated overhang/roof that covers the back patio has inadequate slope toward the front. Instead of runoff being routed to the front, water is being diverted back against the house. This condition has caused staining and decay of the structural lumber and siding where the corrugated roof attaches to the house. Recommend that a qualified party remove all decayed material and replace it with sound wood. When work is complete, paint the surface to protect it from moisture. Additionally, have the improper slope of the roof altered so runoff water drains and is no longer diverted toward the house.
9) - Windows: The windows are single pane glass and some window panes are broken. Also, window glazing compound has deteriorated and there is rot at wood trim around the windows. Recommend that clients have these windows replaced with new, energy efficient, thermal pane windows. At that time, any decayed materials to be removed and replaced as required. Work to be done by qualified parties.

Roof
13) - Fire safety: The chimney, center of the house at the ridge, is too low, too close to the roof. A chimney crown should be at least 3 feet above the roof surface. This chimney is only 18" over this wood roof. Additionally, where the chimney passes through the roof, the metal chimney flashing is heavily rusted and prone to leakage. Spalling, a form of deterioration, is present at the bricks and the mortar has deteriorated. Recommend repairs/alterations, as required, with work to be done by a qualified chimney contractor or a mason.
14) - The shake roof is beyond it's useful life. The shakes have decayed and the roof is leaking -- no longer keeping water out of the home. It was raining at the time of the inspection and obvious leaks, dripping water, from the roof up above were apparent in the attic. Recommend that this roof be torn-off and that a new roof/sheathing be put on the home. Work to be done by a qualified roofing contractor. At that time, the roofer should calculate and establish proper roof/attic venting.
15) - Plumbing stack flashing leak: There is a hole in the roof where there used to be a plumbing stack, north end of the house. The stack is no longer protruding through the flashing, filling the hole, so water is now entering the attic. This is, also, referenced in the "attic" section of the report.

Attic
17) - Plumbing stack safety: A sewer vent stack, north end, is cut too short and it terminates in the attic. This is an active vent, therefore, it will result in sewer gas being vented into the attic which is an unsafe condition. Such a stack MUST be vented to the outdoors. In a related matter, previously referenced in the "roof" section of the report, there is an open hole in the roof above this stack so rain is coming down into the attic. Recommend repair by qualified parties, such as a plumber and a roofer.

Attached carport
21) - There is decay (rot) at structural lumber at the N/E corner of the sill where the wood attaches to the concrete footing. Recommend that all decayed wood at the attached carport be located and removed. Replace damaged wood with sound material. Work to be done by a qualified party.
22) - The carport roof has failed and is in the same condition as the roof at the home. Recommend that it be replaced at the same time the main roof at the house is replaced.
23) - Gutters/downspouts: As was the situation at the home, the wood gutters at the attached carport have decayed and there are leaks. Recommend replacing these gutters and downspouts at the same time similar upgrades are made at the house.

Electric service
24) - The main panel was made by Federal Pacific Electric and it utilizes "Stab-Lok" circuit breakers. These circuit breakers are known to fail and they are considered to be unsafe and a potential fire hazard. Additionally, there is no main shut-off in this electrical panel. To turn off the circuits would require tripping more than six circuit breakers. This is a safety concern. The panel shows signs of past water intrusion. Recommend replacement of this electric panel with work to be done by a licensed electrician.
25) - Receptacles are not GFCI protected at the kitchen sink. Other receptacles near water areas -- outside and baths -- are GFCI protected. GFCI protected receptacles reduce the likelihood of serious electrical shocks in wet environments. State law mandates that an inspector must recommend this upgrade/repair. At the time of repair, a licensed electrician should evaluate the system and make recommendations regarding any concealed defects, safety concerns or system upgrades that might be deemed beneficial or essential. General guidelines for GFCI protection are included below:

26) - Knob and tube wiring system: While much of it appears to have been replaced, some energized knob and tube wiring was found in the attic. "Knob and tube" wiring was commonly installed until the 1950's. The circuits do not have an equipment ground and it is considered outdated by today's standards. The wire's insulation may become brittle and often new circuits will have been incorrectly tapped into the old wiring. It varies but some insurance companies may be unwilling to insure a home with knob and tube wiring. While energized circuits are present, it is not within the scope of the inspection to determine what percentage of wiring is knob and tube or to determine what percentage of the knob and tube wiring is energized vs abandoned. An electrician should evaluate knob and tube wiring and the electrical system and make repairs, or replace this wiring, as is required. To see a short video, produced by King of the House Inc, on the topic of knob and tube wiring, please follow this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPipdS15MRI

Water heater
29) - Hot water heater has no earthquake straps. This makes it vulnerable in the event of seismic activity. Although earthquake straps are recommended for gas, propane and electric hot water heaters, clearly the risk of injury or damage, if such straps are missing, is greater should a gas or propane tank tip over. Recommend that client be aware of this, evaluate information, and consider installation of proper earthquake bracing. Suggest that plumber install such strapping, to meet modern guidelines and, while on site, evaluate system and make additional recommendations for repairs or improvements. For a diagram of the standard, and the presently recommended, means of earthquake bracing, please visit: http://www.kingofthehouse.com/_p/waterheatersafetyscan/waterheaterdiagram.jpg
30) - The water heater's temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed upward. This valve is an emergency device, but periodically small amounts of water could be discharged. If the drain is routed up, water can collect near the valve and that can lead to corrosion and impair the operation of the valve during an emergency. Therefore, drain line must be routed either down or horizontally. Recommend having a qualified plumbing contractor repair. Suggest that plumber, while on site, evaluate system and make additional recommendations for improvements. The TPR valve must be routed into a minimum of 3/4" diameter rigid copper, steel, CPVC plastic pipe or another approved tubing and it may not include any sections of flex pipe. To see a short video on this topic, produced by King of the House Home Inspection, please visit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QpOmv3inWk

Heating and air conditioning
33) - The heaters operated when they were tested but the home has Cadet model FX in-wall heaters. These have been recalled, due to safety issues, by the Consumer Products Safety Commission. In addition to this immediate concern, many of the heaters require cleaning. Recommend that a licensed electrician replace, further evaluate, the electric heaters. Clean electric heaters as required, following the manufacturer's safety guidelines. For more information, please visit: http://www.kingofthehouse.com/arblogs/cadetheaters.pdf

Fireplaces and solid fuel burning appliances
34) - Wood stove hearth is less than 18" deep to combustibles such as the floor. This creates a risk of fire, as a result of falling embers, when the door to the fire chamber is opened. Recommend purchasing a non-combustible hearth pad, the simple remedy, or extending the non-combustible hearth so it is at least 18" deep.
35) - By-products of burning (soot or creosote) are evident in the chimney up above and trash has been burned inside the wood stove. That tends to cause soot or creosote. Recommend that the chimney and the stove be cleaned and serviced by a qualified chimney sweep or a professional chimney contractor. Recommend, if the wood burning device is used frequently, that there be an annual cleaning by a professional. The quality and type of wood burned has a significant impact on how frequently this has to be done. A home inspector provides a basic visual examination of a chimney and any associated wood burning device. The National Fire Protection Association has stated that an in-depth Level 2 chimney inspection should be part of every sale or transfer of property with a wood burning device. Such an inspection may reveal defects that are not apparent to the home inspector who is a generalist. For additional information, and to evaluate if you wish to have such an inspection, please visit: http://www.csia.org/HomeownerResources/ChimneySafetyHotTopics/ChimneyInspections/tabid/116/Default.aspx

Plumbing and laundry
36) - There is not an outside dryer vent cap. The duct from behind the dryer terminates in the kitchen -- where the dryer is located. This results in excess humidity and moisture being discharged into the home. Recommend installing a proper duct to the outside. Where the duct runs under the floor, or into the crawl space, it should be made of approved metal ducting. Accordion type flex-duct is only suitable if used in short sections and if used in visible locations, such as behind the dryer. Repair work to be done by a qualified appliance professional.
37) - The washing machine is installed in the kitchen and, to drain the unit, a hose has been routed through a hole in the wall and into a nearby closet which has had a drain pipe installed. Flexible hoses should not be routed through, inside, walls. Recommend repair, installation of a proper drain, with work to be done by a qualified plumber.
38) - Copper water supply pipes under the house are insulated, or wrapped, with rolled-up newspapers. The newspapers are crumbling. Recommend that modern pipe-wrap be put on the water pipes to protect them from freezing.
39) - Some of the plumbing drain and vent pipes at the home are old galvanized or cast iron piping. Other sections are plastic. Old metal pipe rusts and the material is, at this point, near the end of it's design life. It is not within the scope of the inspection to determine what percentage of piping, much of which is concealed in walls or under insulation, is old metal pipe. Recommend that the condition of the drain and vent piping be further evaluated by a plumber when other plumbing issues, described in this report, are resolved.

Crawl space
43) - There is no plastic vapor barrier over the soil in the crawl space. This condition allows moisture in the soil to condense up into the crawl space or even into the home. That can lead to wood decay or other undesirable fungal issues. Recommend installing 6 mil black polyethylene with seams overlapped at least 24" so no soil is exposed in the crawlspace. Hold plastic down with stones or bricks, not wood.
44) - At the north side, a concrete pier block is incorrectly installed. The block is designed to be installed with the opening in a vertical, not a horizontal, position. Installed as it is, the block has little strength and could be crushed should there be a seismic event. Recommend that this pier be re-positioned or replaced with work to be done by a qualified party.
45) - The door over the crawlspace entry is decayed. Recommend that the door be replaced. Recommend that the door be made of metal or a cement-based product that will not decay.
46) - Carpenter ants: Carpenter ants, live ants and distinctive wood frass, were seen under the fiberglass batt insulation at the N/W corner of the crawl space. Due to insulation being in place, the view was limited and it is not possible to find all areas of carpenter ant activity or potential damage without removing insulation. Therefore, recommend that a qualified party remove the insulation and that any structurally compromised wood be located and replaced. Then have a licensed pest control operator/applicator further evaluate the home and, if necessary, perform a chemical treatment with a product that has been approved for the control of carpenter ants. Furthermore, eliminate conducive conditions. For a video on the topic of carpenter ants, produced by King of the House, please follow this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzMtkfJLMc4

Interior rooms
50) - Smoke detectors: There are no smoke detectors on premises. Recommend installing smoke detectors so a functioning one exists (as applicable) on every floor and in each hallway leading to any bedrooms and in each bedroom. When gas appliances or wood or coal burning devices are present, there should also be a working carbon monoxide detector. Today's smoke detectors are inexpensive, effective and can be installed by almost anyone. Some also have carbon monoxide detectors built into them. Regardless, residents should test the functionality of detectors, upgrade from older units and replace batteries regularly. As is applicable, install a carbon monoxide detector.
51) - There was one tub/shower inspected. Results:

There is a wide gap, a water entry point at the wall, next to the tub. Currently an effort was made to fill this by inserting a paper towel. This defect can allow moisture into the wall and that could cause concealed damage. Recommend that a licensed contractor make repairs as are required.
52) - The refrigerator/freezer is Amana brand. It was inspected. Results:

Interior damage to shelves, torn gasket at refrigerator. Recommend repairs or replacement.
53) - The two sinks were inspected. Results:

There is an S-trap, instead of a proper P-trap, under the kitchen sink. This type of trap can siphon and allow sewer gas into the home. The bath sink (pop-up) stopper does not operate which makes the sink drain slowly. Recommend that plumbing repairs be performed by a qualified party such as a plumber. For information on S-traps, please follow this link: http://www.kingofthehouse.com/arblogs/improperplumbing.pdf