| Sample II | |
| Client(s): | John Q. Public |
| Property address: | 4300 Victrola |
| Inspection date: | December 28, 2004 |
King of the House, Inc
Steven L. Smith, President
Certified Home Inspector
Washington State Structural Pest Inspector
License number 69078
Thank you for using King of the House, Inc. for your home inspection. I know your home inspection is very important to you. And your business is very important to me. If I can help in anyway after the inspection, please call or Email me at the Email address or telephone number provided on this report. And, if you are happy with King of the House, Inc. please refer my company to your friends, your realtor and anyone you believe could benefit from my services. King of the House, Inc. not only performs inspections for purchasers, but also for people planning to sell a home who wish to estimate the amount of work that needs to be completed before listing the house.
A home inspection is a visual, and not an exhaustive or invasive, inspection of a home by a trained and impartial inspector. The role of a home inspector is to find deficiencies. As a result, the report is likely to be negative in tone. This is common and certainly most homes on the real estate market have a number of excellent features that, unfortunately, tend to go unmentioned in the inspection report. Please read the full report, not just the summary. Valuable information is included in the full report text. Frequently clients ask if repairs should be made prior to, or after, closing. That decision is left to the client. However, it is recommended that prior to closing client have in hand -- at a minimum -- estimates for repairs/upgrades/evaluations of any components or systems that may be complex or costly to fix (typically, but not limited to, structural, roof, chimney, fireplace, electrical, plumbing and heating concerns). Better yet, if repairs are completed prior to closing, the client minimizes the chances of unexpected surprises after taking ownership of the home. It is the recommendation of King of the House that all work be done by licensed contractors, builders, remodelers, plumbers, electricians. And in instances where they might be required, appropriate city, county or municipal building permits should be acquired. As a home inspector is a generalist, and not a specialist, it protects the client when a licensed specialist also evaluates safety, expense and the components and systems in a home. At that time, this person may discover and recommend additional upgrades or repairs within his or her area of expertise. Furthermore, when work is done by a licensed contractor, the client has more options should the workmanship later be found to be ineffectual or defective.
An inspector is looking for significant issues. Pointing out primarily cosmetic details or inexpensive and simple repairs is not the goal of a home inspection. Any minor deficiencies listed in an inspection report are at the discretion of the home inspector. Due to the inherent nature of construction, the inspector cannot see through or into interior walls or siding, through or into concrete slabs or floors, insulation, carpets, roofs and ceilings or down into the soil. Nor can an inspector see into drains, down into toilet/floor/sink connections, into service or sewer pipes, into ducting or vents. Only the normal operating control will be tested on any appliance. No appliances, mechanical or electrical devices, or parts of the structure, will be dis-assembled during the home inspection (with two exceptions (1) the cover will be removed from the electric panel when that can be done; (2) cover panels will be removed from the furnace when that can be done). It is possible that some defects are concealed, weather related, intermittent or slow developing, so they may not be active or visible at the time of the inspection. The home inspector makes every effort to perform a thorough inspection, within the limitations specified, but makes no warranties about the home other than reporting on the conditions visible and apparent at the time of inspection. Conditions in a home can, and will, change from day to day.
A home inspector is not inspecting based on current or past "codes". A home inspection is a common sense approach to evaluating visual deficiencies found at a home. A home inspection tends to be critical, often pointing out defects or maintenance issues. Recommendations made on the home inspection report are not always "mandatory" repairs. Some recommendations could include upgrades or enhancements that the buyer may wish to have done after closing. A code inspection would, by definition, fail to point out a number of deficiencies just as long as the home met the various applicable "codes". This type of "code" inspection might leave out a number of maintenance issues that are addressed in a home inspection. Also it is unfair, except with critical safety issues, to expect a home built years ago, under previous standards, to meet the most recent codes.
Your King of the House inspection adheres to the standards of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors, an organization that encourages high ethical standards and professionalism in the home inspection industry. To read the standards please visit:
http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm
Steven L. Smith is the team leader, and program coordinator, for the Residential Home Inspection Training Program taught by Bellingham Technical College, an accredited state college. Bellingham Technical College offers these courses across the state. Smith teaches structure, roofing, exterior issues and wood destroying organisms.
This report includes an inspection for wood destroying organisms (WDO'S). More detailed information on this topic, and a suggestion as to how to more effectively use Form 17, the Real Property Transfer Disclosure Statement, is provided under general information. By law the State of Washington mandates that I inspect for, and report on, WDO infestations or conditions that are conducive to attracting WDO's.
Every King of the House, Inc. report includes photos and descriptions detailing the locations of areas of concern as noted by the inspector. Despite the photos and specific information provided, if during this inspection wood destroying organisms or conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms were found, I want you to know: WAC 16-228-2045 REQUIRES THAT A DIAGRAM BE PREPARED FOR WDO INSPECTION REPORTS. A COPY IS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.
SUMMARY: NEAR THE TOP OF THE REPORT YOU MAY CLICK ON A "SUMMARY". THIS WILL SHOW ONLY THE MOST SIGNIFICANT ISSUES WHICH ARE TAKEN FROM THE MAIN REPORT BASED ON PRIORITY. THE SUMMARY LEAVES CONCERNS NUMBERED AS THEY ARE IN THE FULL REPORT, SO THEY ARE EASY TO LOCATE IN THE BODY OF THE REPORT. FOR THIS REASON, THE SUMMARY WILL PROBABLY NOT BE SEQUENTIALLY NUMBERED.
 | Safety | This recommendation will enhance the safety features of the home. It is not necessarily, although it could be, an urgent condition or an expensive repair or alteration. Often, easy to remedy concerns fall into the broad general category of "safety." |
 | Repair/Replace | This is a recommended repair. It is not necessarily, but can be on occasion, difficult or costly. |
 | Repair/Maintain | This is a recommended repair that will also require ongoing upkeep. It is not necessarily, but can be on occasion, difficult or costly. |
 | Minor defect | This repair is recommended but is typically easy and inexpensive. |
 | Evaluate | Recommend observation and evaluation by client to determine the degree to which this matter is an issue of personal concern or, if noted, consultation and evaluation by a specialist. |
 | Comment | This is an informational comment by the inspector. |
Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Items of concern relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:
 | WDO/WDI Infestation | Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) |
 | WDO/WDI Damage | Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) |
 | WDO/WDI Conducive conditions | Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.aspTable of Contents
General information
Exterior
Roof
Attached Carport
Electric service
Water heater
Heating and air conditioning
Attic
Plumbing and laundry
Fireplaces and solid fuel burning appliances
Crawl space
Interior rooms
| General information | Return to table of contents |
Overview: This report includes a complete wood destroying organism (WDO) inspection. The inspector looked for, and noted, "conducive conditions" which are issues that are likely to attract WDO's. Conducive conditions and any visible wood destroying organisms are described in appropriate sections of the report.
| Exterior | Return to table of contents |
Corrugated roof covering over the back patio has inadequate slope to properly drain the water away at the front. This has lead to water collecting and then penetrating into and decay of the structural lumber where the corrugated roof meets the house roof. Recommend decayed lumber be replaced and that a contractor modify the design of this roof so the slope is toward the yard so water is properly discharged by the gutter system.
 Photo 11 Active leak at patio
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Structure should be repainted. Recommend having a qualified painting contractor prep (scrape, sand, prime and caulk) and repaint the entire home. This should be done after any decayed or damaged wood has been replaced. .
 Photo 12 Soffit view
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Soil is in contact with, and less than 6" from, the siding on the west side of the home. Despite the soil contact, no decay was visible. Recommend grading soil so there is 6" of space between the siding and the soil below.
 Photo 5 Earth to wood contact, west side
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Gutters are leaking, loose and damaged. This includes decay in some of the old wooden gutters. Recommend having a qualified gutter and downspout contractor install effective gutters and downspouts. Also recommend installing extensions such as splashblocks or a drain line where necessary to carry rain water away from the house.
Crawl space vent screen(s) are clogged with debris and insulation on the inside. Recommend cleaning the vents, and pulling back the insulation on the inside of the crawlspace, so there is adequate air flow. Also, the screen on the crawl space vents is 1/2" mesh. This should be changed to 1/4" mesh to eliminate potential rodent entry.
Window glazing putty is deteriorated on most windows. Recommend removing and restoring glazing where it is necessary. There is a crack in the pane on the center window on the southside. Recommend repair or replacement of windows by a qualified party, such as a window contractor.
 Photo 9 South window view
Arrow=broken pane |
Vent plugs, installed when insulation was blown into the house, are working out of the siding at the north end of the home. This can lead to water intrusion. Recommend that they be repaired or replaced so they are watertight.
Vegetation (trees, shrubs and/or vines) is in contact with the building exterior. This is primarily in the front and at the back. Recommend pruning or removing vegetation, as is necessary, so there's at least a 6" gap between all vegetation and the building exterior. This gap should exist to allow exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and to eliminate pathways to the structure that might be used by wood destroying insects.
The cracks in the concrete of the driveway and the sidewalk are cosmetic in nature and not a concern at this time.
| Roof | Return to table of contents |
Brick and mortar at the chimney are deteriorated. Brick is spalling onto the roof surface. Additionally, for safety, it is recommended that a chimney crown be at least 3 feet above the roof. This chimney is about 18" above the roof and that is a fire hazard. Recommend having a qualified chimney service contractor or mason repair or replace as is required.
The shake roof is decayed, has moss growing on it. It is no longer keeping water out of the home as is apparent in the photo below which was taken in the attic. Wind blown roofing material is visible down in the yard as well. The shakes need to be removed and a new roof should be installed at the home. Work to be done by a qualified roofing contractor.
 Photo 1 Roof leaks visible in attic
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| Attached Carport | Return to table of contents |
There is decay (rot) on the N/E corner of the sill where the wood meets the concrete footing. Recommend a contractor repair and replace wood as is required.
 Photo 8 Carport
Arrow=Wood decay |
Carport gutters are leaking and they are old wood gutters that are rotted. Recommend replacement when gutters on the home are upgraded.
| Electric service | Return to table of contents |
An insufficient number of smoke detectors are installed. Recommend installing additional smoke detectors as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom.This is especially important for a rental. For more information on smoke detectors visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
This property has a panel that was clearly identified as a Federal Pacific Electric brand main service panel that uses "Stab-Lok" circuit breakers. Both double and single pole versions of these circuit breakers are known to fail and are considered to be unsafe and a potential fire hazard. Additionally, there is no main shut-off in this electrical panel. This is a safety concern. The panel also shows signs of past water intrusion with at least four rusted circuit breaker terminals. This is usually the result of water penetration at the outside service mast. Recommend repair and evaluation by a licensed electrician. For further information on Federal Pacific, please visit: Photo 17 Federal Pacific Stab-lok panel
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 Photo 18 Rust in panel
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Kitchen receptacles are not GFCI protected at the sink. Other outlets near water areas -- outside and baths -- are GFCI protected. This was not required at the kitchen sink when this home was built, however upgrading outlets near the sink to GFCI devices is quite simple. Recommend clients evaluate this information and consider upgrading to GFCI receptacles where applicable. Typically, this is not costly or difficult, but always recommend work be done by a licensed electrician.
| Water heater | Return to table of contents |
Hot water heater is missing earthquake straps. This makes it vulnerable in the event of seismic activity. Although earthquake straps are recommended for gas, propane and electric hot water heaters, clearly the risk of injury or damage to a home, if such straps are missing, is greater should a gas or propane tank tip over.Recommend that seismic straps be installed. For a diagram of the standard, and the presently recommended, means of earthquake bracing, please visit:
The water heater's temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed upward. This valve is an emergency device, but periodically small amounts of water could be discharged. If the drain is routed up, water can collect near the valve and that can lead to corrosion and impair the operation of the valve during an emergency. Therefore, drain line must be routed either down or horizontally. It cannot be routed up, even over a short distance. The exit of the TPR appears to be near the crawl space entry door. Recommend having a qualified plumbing contractor fully evaluate and repair so the drain line is properly routed down or horizontally. For more information on the proper way to route the TPR drain please visit: Photo 19 |
| Heating and air conditioning | Return to table of contents |
The source of heat in this home is electric in wall heaters that are part of a series of Cadet brand heaters that have been recalled. Cadet model FX wall heaters have been declared unsafe by the Consumer Products Safety Commission. In addition to this immediate concern, many of the heaters require cleaning. Any electric heaters can be a hazard if they accumulate dust and lint. Recommend having a licensed electrician replace in wall heaters with new, safe units. Also, clients to regularly clean heaters, using manufacturer's safety guidelines. For more info on Cadet recalled heaters, please visit:  Photo 14 Recalled Cadet heater
FX072 |
| Attic | Return to table of contents |
Sewer vent pipe is cut too short and terminates in the attic. This is an active vent, therefore, it will result in sewer gas being vented into the attic.This is not healthy, nor safe. Also, in the current state, water drips into the attic from the roof opening that is above this pipe. Recommend repair by a qualified party, such as a plumber.
 Photo 16 |
Insulation in attic is substantially less than an R30 rating. Recommend installing additional insulation for better energy efficiency.
| Plumbing and laundry | Return to table of contents |
No outside dryer duct is installed. Duct is in the kitchen and resting on the dryer. This results in excess moisture collecting in the home. Recommend installing a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. which goes outside the home. For information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html
 Photo 6 |
Washing machine is installed in the kitchen and draining the unit is accomplished by routing a hose through a hole in the wall and into a nearby closet which has a drain pipe. Recommend having a plumber extend the drain pipe from the closet into the kitchen, ending with a normal "standpipe" for the washing machine. As it is, the soft hose from the washing machine, which will eventually deteriorate, is likely to leak inside the wall cavity. This could cause extensive damage as it might go unnoticed for some time.
Copper pipes under the house are insulated with rolled up newspapers. Recommend that this old, crumbling material be removed and that the pipes be insulated with modern pipe wrap.
Some of the plumbing pipes, such as the main stack and at the toilet and the tub, are galvanized and/or cast iron pipe. This material is old, at the end of it's design life, and likely to require repairs or upgrades in the future. At the time of the inspection no leaks were apparent despite running water extensively.
 Photo 4 Crawlspace pipes
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| Fireplaces and solid fuel burning appliances | Return to table of contents |
Woodstove hearth is less than 18" deep. This is a fire hazard as embers might come into contact with the flooring. Recommend installing a non-combustible hearth pad, or extending the hearth, to provide at least an 18" space from the stove to the flooring.
 Photo 7 Insufficient clearance
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| Crawl space | Return to table of contents |
There is carpenter ant activity. The ants were found in the fiberglass batt insulation at the N/W corner of the crawl space. This included live ants and distinctive frass (shavings) that is readily identified as being from carpenter ants.  Photo 15 Distinctive frass and bodies of carpenter ants
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The door over the crawlspace is decayed. Recommend that the door be replaced, utilizing metal or pressure treated lumber that is resistant to wood destroying organisms.
There is no vapor barrier. This condition allows moisture in the soil to condense up into the crawl space or even into the home. That can lead to wood decay or other undesirable fungal issues. Recommend installing 6 mil black polyethylene with seams overlapped at least 24" so no soil is exposed in the crawlspace. Hold plastic down with stones or bricks, not wood.
North side concrete pier block incorrectly installed. The block is designed to be installed with the opening in a vertical, not horizontal, position. Installed as it is, the block has little strength and could crush. Recommend that this pier be repaired or replaced.
 Photo 3 Block incorrectly installed
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Wood scraps were found in the crawl space. Recommend removing all non-structural material to avoid attracting wood destroying organisms.
The fiberglass batt insulation under the floor is installed with the vapor barrier at the wrong side. The vapor barrier should face the warm side. When other issues in the crawl space are dealt with, recommend installing new insulation in the correct manner.
| Interior rooms | Return to table of contents |
In the bathroom, beside the tub, there is a gap or a water entry point into the wall. Currently there is a piece of paper towel tucked into this gap. However, this defect can allow moisture into the wall cavity. Recommend hiring a licensed contractor to make all appropriate repairs.
 Photo 2 Ineffective repair
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Refrigerator is an Amana frost free. Gasket torn, interior damage. Approx 12 years old. Unit at the end of it's design life.
Bath sink (pop-up) stopper does not fully release with the handle, which makes the sink drain slowly. Recommend repair or replacement. Drain may also benefit from cleaning drain/ P-trap.
Industrial quality, Broan exhaust fan. Unit would benefit from oiling of the motor, and cleaning of the interior, but it worked upon testing.
Panasonic microwave. Satisfactory when operated.
Oven is an apartment size Maytag. It is fully functional but small. Whether or not it is satisfactory depends on the cooking requirements of the occupants.
 Photo 10 Apartment stove
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Bath has no exhaust fan. It does have a window that opens. Recommend eventually installing an exhaust fan, to allow steam from baths and showers out, as having an open window is problematic during the cold season.
Maple hardwood floors throughout house. Floors in generally good condition, except they require refinishing.
