Phone: (916) 689-9571 · (916) 541-6618
Inspector: Robert Schenck


Your Home Inspection Report
Client(s): Mr. John Doe
Property address: 123 Your Street
AnyTown, AnyWhere
Inspection date: Sunday, March 26, 2006
This report published on 9/22/2008 8:53:51 PM PDT

View summary page

Thank you John for choosing Roberts Home Inspection Service. I realize there's many Home Inspectors and/or Company's that you could have chosen. I truly appreciate your decision to go with me.

I know that buying a new home is a major decision. But with this Home Inspection Report to advise you of any needed repairs, I'm certain it will provide you with valuable information towards considering the purchase of this property.

Should you have any questions at all, please feel free to contact me at ANY time !

Remember: The highest compliment my clients can give me, is the referral of their Friends, Family and Business Associates!

Again, thank you for your business.

Robert Schenck
Roberts Home Inspection Services

Real Estate Agents: Please be sure to ask for permission from your client prior to giving this Home Inspection Report to anyone else. Either by postage, fax, e-mail or otherwise. Thank you.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
SafetyPoses a Risk of Injury or Death to Person(s) and/ or Animals. 
Major DefectCorrection Likely Involves a Significant Expense. 
Repair/ReplaceRecommend Repairing or Replacing. 
Repair/MaintainRecommend Repair and/or Maintenance. 
Minor DefectCosmetic in Nature. Easily Repairable by Doing It Yourself (DIY) 
MaintainRecommend ongoing Maintenance. 
EvaluateRecommend Evaluation by a Specialist. 
MonitorPerforms Intended Function. Recommend Monitoring now, and in the Future. 
CommentFor Your Information (FYI) 

Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Items of concern relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:
WDO/WDI InfestationEvidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) 
WDO/WDI DamageDamage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) 
WDO/WDI Conducive
Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) 

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at

Table of Contents
GENERAL INFORMATION Return to table of contents
Report Number: DOE491ANYSTREET
Date of Home Inspection: 26 March 2006
Overview: Overall condition of the House and Property are in good condition. Please refer to the Summary Page for list of Discrepancies and Recommendations.
Buyer Name: John Doe
Cell Phone: 905-555-1234
Buyer E-Mail:
Realtor Name: Mr Realtor - Royal LePage
Work: 905-555-2345
Realtor E-Mail: Realtor@TrebNet.Com
Home Inspector / Work Phone: Robert Schenck / 905-922-0938
Time Started: 1100 (11:00am)
Time Finished: 1430 (2:30pm)
Main Entrance Faces: West
Occupied: Yes
Present During Inspection: Buyer, Realtor, Seller Family, Buyer Requesting Home Inspection
Type of Structure: Single Family, 3 - Bedroom, 1 - Bath, Built Over Basement
Age of Structure: 55 - 60 Years
Weather Conditions: Partly Cloudy, Cold
Temperature (Approximate Conversions): 50F / 10C
Fee(s) Paid For: Home Inspection
Home Inspection Fee $: XXX.00
Total Amount Paid $: XXX.00 (Fee Paid by Cash)
ROOFING / ATTIC Return to table of contents
Roof Description (Sloped): Asphalt or Fiberglass Composition Shingles main structure, Rolled Roofing on backyard shed.
Roof Inspection Method: Viewed from Eaves on Ladder
Probability of Leakage: Low
Roof Type: Gable
Roof Age (approximately): < 5 yrs, per seller roof shingles install 2004.
Gutter & Downspout Material: Aluminum
Roof Vent Type: Roof Louver
Roof Ventilation: Marginal
Attic Inspection Method: Viewed from Hatch
Attic Insulation Type: Cellulose
Attic / Roof Ventilation Type: Roof Vent

1)   ATTIC - VENTILATION: Exhaust fan duct is missing allowing fan to terminate (exhaust) directly into the attic. Recommend repairing duct so it's securely attached to the vent fixture and all exhaust air is vented OUTSIDE of the attic. If left as is, warm air from interior of the house (bathroom) will cause condensation in the attic, leading to eventual insulation and/ or structure damage. Also, the electrical connections to the fan are expose and should be in a junction box. This presents an electrical shock hazard.

Photo 32  
* Electrical connection exposed / Not in junction box (red circle)
* Vent fan is missing duct / Exhaust to attic: (yellow arrow)
* Ceiling joist shows signs of damage: (green arrow)


The chimney crown (cap) is cracked and partially missing. Also, various locations of mortar is deteriorated and in need of repointing (resealing).
Recommend having crown and mortar evaluated by a qualified chimney service contractor / mason and repaired / replaced as necessary.

For information on the correct way to build a chimney crown visit: Do It Yourself.Com

Photo 6  
Roofing - Crown damage (yellow circle)
and minor mortar deterioration in various areas (yellow arrow).


One or more downspouts are broke and/or loose. Recommend having a qualified gutter and downspout contractor repair, and install gutters, downspouts where missing or needed. Also, recommend installing or keeping current extensions in place to carry rain water at least 6 feet away from the house.

Photo 18  
Roofing - Downspout is loose.

Photo 19  
Roofing - Downspout support bracket loose and rusted.

Photo 22  
Roofing - Downspout is loose.


Attic hatch located in the bathroom found to have no insulation. The attic access hatch should be insulated, ideally to the same level as the rest of the attic. Rigid or batt insulation can be glued to the top of the hatch. Air leakage around the access hatch can be controlled if the hatch cover is weather-stripped. Sometimes there is no access into the attic. These are installation issues. Heat loss is an issue where the access hatch is not insulated. Air leaking from the house into the attic is both a heat loss and moisture damage issue. Warm, moist air leaking into the attic can condense on structural members, causing damage.

It's recommended that you install some form of insulation on the back of the attic access hatch.

Photo 45  
Attic - All Hatches leading to attic should be insulated.


Attic soffit vent(s) found to be obstructed. This is a common problem found in attics (especially older homes).

Soffit vents may be obstructed by insulation filling the space between the ceiling and underside of the roof sheathing, a retrofit soffit treatment added over existing soffits with no provision for venting, or vents with fine louvers or screens becoming clogged.

The implications of inadequate venting are mold, mildew and rot as a result of condensation, and rain and snow being drawn in through high level roof vents, creating water damage.

Poor venting may lead to ice damming, since the attic will be warmer than it should be. Good venting maintains the attic temperature close to the outdoor temperature. This minimizes melting of roof snow and helps prevent ice dams.

* Insulation should be leveled (evened out) to allow for equal insulating of attic area, and pulled back from deck sheathing (near outer edges of roof trusses and ceiling joists) to allow air intake to the attic.

* The gable dormer (part of the roof where upstairs bathroom is located) shows no sign of a roof louver installed. This could possibly create a "hot spot" in this area.

* The front over-hang (over front door entrance) is enclosed underneath with vinyl paneling. This area, just as the attic, should be allowed to breath as well.

It's recommended that you contact a licensed building contractor or roofer in the near future for a full evaluation of attic / roof ventilation and repairs if necessary. Please see sample pictures below for additional information.

Photo 3  
Roofing - (Sample Picture Only)
Vaulted ceilings are unique due to needing air space
between deck sheathing and insulation; thus allowing
air to get up into any attic area(s).

Photo 4  
Roofing - Sample picture of roof "Hot Spot" due to lack of ventilation.

Photo 29  
Attic - Insulation uneven / blocking soffit vents
(North view).

Photo 30  
Attic - Insulation uneven / blocking soffit vents
(North-West view)

Photo 31  
Attic - Insulation uneven / blocking soffit vents
(North-East view).

Photo 46  
Roofing - (Sample Picture Only)
Air baffles allow fresh air intake to the attic.

Photo 48  

6)   NOTE: There are a wide variety of composition shingle roofs, which are comprised of asphalt or fiberglass materials impregnated with mineral granules that are designed to deflect the deteriorating ultra-violet rays of the sun. These roofs are warranted by the manufacturer to last from twenty to twenty-five years, and are typically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. The actual life of the roof will vary, depending on a number of interrelated factors besides the quality of the material and the method of installation. Poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure, but a southern exposure can cause a roof to deteriorate prematurely, as will the practice of layering over another roof.
However, the first indication of significant wear is when the granules begin to separate and leave pockmarks or dark spots. This is referred to as primary decomposition, which means that the roof is in decline, and therefore susceptible to leakage. This typically begins with the hip and ridge shingles and to the field shingles on the south facing side. This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced, but that it
should be serviced or monitored. Regular maintenance will certainly extend the life of
any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only become evident after they have
caused other damage. This is important, because in accordance with industry standards our inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks.
For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history and then schedule a regular maintenance service.

For a great source of roofing information, please visit: Stock Building Supply

Photo 5  
Roofing - Rolled roofing has minor damage.

Photo 7  
Roofing - Shingles appear in serviceable condition.
View: Back of house.

Photo 8  
Roofing - Shingles appear in serviceable condition.
View: Back of house.

Photo 20  
Roofing - Rolled roofing has minor damage.
View: Back of house - Shed.

Photo 38  
Roofing - Shingles appear in serviceable condition.

Photo 40  
Roofing - Shingles appear in serviceable condition.

Photo 41  
Roofing - Shingles appear in serviceable condition.
View: Front of house.

7)   POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE - ROOF: The roof coverings appear to be in serviceable condition. Roof flashing details, such as Exhaust Vents, Plumbing Vents, Eave Flashing appear to be in good order. The gutters are clean. In all, the roof coverings show evidence of normal wear and tear for a home of this age. (Please see Summary Page for exceptions)

For a great source of roofing information, please visit: Stock Building Supply

8)   ATTIC - CELLULOSE FIBER (R-Value 3.4-3.6 per inch)

Cellulose fiber is essentially paper, finely shredded and treated with chemicals to make it somewhat resistant to moisture, fire, rot and vermin. It is usually blown in but can also be poured. It is prone to settling. Due to its relatively low cost, this material is very popular. Usually gray in color, it has a similar texture to lint. Cellulose fiber will absorb water which will lead to deterioration.

Insulation, a primary attic component, is key to a home's overall energy efficiency and comfort. It controls heat transfer through exterior assemblies in cold weather, and minimizes heat gain in warm weather. It plays a vital role protecting the home and roof from ice damming and weather-born problems. To be effective and cost-efficient, insulation must be integrated with other attic systems and installed at today's recommended levels.

Insulation recommendations are stated in R-values - the resistance to heat flow of a material. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power.

(See Home Insulation Recommendations for suggested amounts of insulation.)

9)   ATTIC: (For Your Information)

The following is a list of Insulation Types, and their estimated "R-Value" per inch.

Insulation Type R-Value per Inch
Fiber Glass Blanket / Batt 2.9 - 3.8 (use 3.2)
High Performance Fiber Glass / Batt 3.7 - 4.3 (use 3.8)
Loose-Fill Fiber Glass 2.3 - 2.7 (use 2.5)
Loose-Fill Rock Wool 2.7 - 3.0 (use 2.8)
Loose-Fill Cellulose 3.4 - 3.7 (use 5.9)
Spray Polyurethane Foam 5.6 - 6.3 (use 5.9)

Ceilings | R-38 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 12" of Fiberglass Batt Insulation or 12" of pouring Rock Wool or Fiberglass.

Exterior Walls | R-16 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 3 1/2" of Fiberglass Batts.

Cantilever Floors & Floors over Crawl Spaces | R10 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 6" of Fiberglass Batts.

Basement Walls | R-8 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 3 1/2" of Fiberglass Bats or 2" of extruded polystyrene sheathing.
EXTERIOR Return to table of contents
Exterior Window Style: Storm Sash, Single Pane, Vertical Slider
Exterior Door Material: Solid Core Wood
Exterior Wall Covering: Brick Veneer, Vinyl

Cracking found in exterior wall(s). Cracks are much easier to see in masonry units than in the mortar. Cracks in the mortar are usually at the point of connection to the masonry unit, in a natural shadow line.
Common causes are one or more of the following: Building settlement, Freezing damage, Mechanical damage (such as from a vehicle), Thermal expansion and contraction. While cracking can be the result of freeze / thaw action, it is more often caused by building settlement. Stresses caused by expansion or contraction of the wall as a result of temperature or moisture changes can also cause cracking.

* Implications Structure - Cracked masonry or mortar units may be cosmetic, may be water entry points, or may indicate severe structural problems.
* Siding - The cracks allow water into the wall which may damage the interior skeleton of the building. Moisture entering the cracks can also result in freeze/thaw damage. Cracks may grow with time at a constant (increasing or decreasing) rate and may open and close as seasons change.

It's highly recommended that you make repairs to all cracks, whether their small and/or large. For smaller cracks, a weather resistant caulking (sealer) can be used. For larger size cracks (3/8" and larger) it's recommended you contact a licensed mason and/or building contractor for repairs.

Photo 35  
Exterior - Step cracking observed.

Photo 44  
Exterior - Cracking and/or loose bricks observed.


Various doors, windows and/or siding in need of minor caulking. Leakage around and below windows and doors, or penetrations (such as cable entry into the house) is a common problem that can lead to significant concealed damage. There are a few areas in need of window, door and wall systems caulking, all of which need to be kept water tight.

There are several quality levels of caulking available. Some last less than 2 years and others last almost 20 years. Not all caulking is suitable for all materials. The wrong caulking for the job may not last long, even if it's good quality. Failed caulking on horizontal joints can actually direct water into the window, door or wall system. While caulking is a maintenance issue, ensuring the watertightness of the building is critically important.

It's highly recommended that you keep all doors, windows and exterior wall penetrations properly caulked to prevent water infiltration.

For more information on caulking, please visit: Home Repair - Caulking

Photo 37  
Exterior - Caulking needed for cable entry point.


Wood and/or metal trim needs (re)painting in various locations. Rotted wood trim or metal rusting is very common, especially if it is a raised piece of trim, and it's even more vulnerable if it happens to be a horizontal piece. Implication of rotted / rusted trim is, of course, nonperformance. The trim may be expected to fall off the building and allow water into the wall.

* Paint is peeling off from the foundation parge coat. This should be repainted at your earliest convenience to help further damage to parge coat and/or foundation.

It's recommended that you keep all wood / metal trimming painted in order to preserve / prolong the life of the wood / metal.

Photo 36  
Exterior - Reparge / Repaint wall surface.

Photo 39  
Exterior - Prep and paint window trim where needed.


The front porch columns found to be unpainted (or extremely dirty). It's recommended that the tops of columns be painted (or cleaned and painted) to help preserve life of wood.

Photo 42  
Exterior - Tops of columns need painting.


Masonry and concrete deterioration is usually in the form of spalling. This is crumbling or flaking of the surface, usually because of efflorescence, freeze / thaw action, or water or mechanical impact.

Damage can be from:
* Water hitting the wall surface directly during driving rains,
* Water spilling onto the wall surfaces from gutters and downspouts or from roof surfaces,
* Water wicked up from damp soil through the foundations (some refer to this capillary action as rising damp),
* Moisture entering the masonry or concrete in the form of vapor or air transported moisture escaping from within the building.

Freeze/Thaw Action - While the mechanical action of water passing over masonry can deteriorate the masonry surface, the most severe deterioration is often associated with freeze/thaw cycles. Whether the water is from rain or snow on the surface or dampness from below or behind, water may accumulate near the surface of the masonry. Water trapped at or near the surface cools and freezes inside the concrete or masonry.

It's recommended that you contact a qualified person to make repairs to concrete steps.

Photo 21  
Exterior - Concrete step spalling.

Photo 43  
Exterior - Front porch steps appear in good order.
INTERIOR Return to table of contents
Ceiling Finishes: Plaster / Drywall
Door Finishes: Wood
Floor Finishes: Carpet, Ceramic, Hardwood
Wall Finishes: Plaster / Drywall

Various windows have broken glass. Recommend replacing glass as soon as possible. Broken window glass poses a serious threat to personal injury. (High winds can break out glass much easier than if glass was fully intact)

16)   WINDOW(S) - WONT LOCK / OPEN: Various windows are missing their locking mechanism and/or wont open due to being painted over. Recommend repairing locking hardware to allow window(s) to lock, and to remove painted areas to allow window(s) to open for egress.

Moderate cracks / plaster damage present in the interior wall of closet (in upstairs front bedroom). This does not appear to be a structural concern. At a minimum, recommend sealing cracks to prevent possible water infiltration.

Owner stated that the house (as a whole) was relocated (physically moved) from down and across the street to its present location. This damage, amongst any other cracks, could have been caused by the move.

Photo 27  
Interior - Wall damage (minor).


It's not uncommon to find a window physically located within the shower stall. But, when the window is low enough (as in this case) to where shower water can enter the window trim, it's highly suggested you caulk all window trim to prevent water infiltration into the wall cavity. Installing a water proof curtain would help also.

Photo 28  
Interior - Caulk around window trim where needed.

19)   POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE: The interior of the structure appears to be in serviceable condition. Wall plaster and/or drywall, cabinets, countertops, flooring, ceiling, trim, windows, and appliances (if checked) appear to be in serviceable condition. In all, the interior components and coverings show evidence of normal wear and tear for a home of this age. (Please see Summary Page for exceptions)
ELECTRIC SERVICE Return to table of contents
Service Cable / Location: Overhead cable / South exterior wall
Service Size (Amps): 100 (240 Volts)
Service Main Disconnect (Amps): 100 Amps
Primary Service Overload Protection Type: Circuit Breakers
Service Main Disconnect Location: Bottom of Panel, Left Side
Service Panel Type / Location: Circuit Breaker, Basement
Smoke Detectors Present: Yes

No GFCI outlet found in recommended location. Location being: Kitchen sink area.

A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is a special receptacle with ground fault protection. There are also GFCI's which are circuit breakers installed at the Electric Service Panel to provide ground fault protection for the whole branch circuit. Due to wet and/or damp surroundings, GFCI receptacles are highly recommended in bathrooms and washrooms, outdoors, in garages, above counters for a kitchen sink or wet bar, and in unfinished basements and crawlspaces. Outlets on roofs and in boathouses also need GFCI's. You don't need them for a sump pump outlet nor do you need them for a refrigerator in an unfinished basement.

It's highly recommended for safety reasons that you replace standard outlets, located in the above areas, with GFCI outlets. This is a relatively inexpensive repair if done by the home owner. If you do not feel comfortable working with electricity, contact a Licensed Electrical Contractor for repairs.

For more information on GFCI's, please visit: Easy 2 DIY

Photo 49  
Electrical - (Sample Picture) Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter - GFCI


Ungrounded outlet(s) found in various locations. This is a common condition, especially in old houses.


Two Slot Receptacles - Ungrounded receptacles with only two slots can only receive two-prong plugs. It is clear that the circuit and appliance are not grounded.

Box Not Grounded - There is a safety issue if the box itself is not grounded, as was a common installation practice until the early 1960s. If a hot wire or terminal from the outlet contacts the metal box, the live box becomes a shock and fire hazard.

Three-Slot Receptacles On Ungrounded Circuit - Ungrounded outlets create another safety issue if the old two-slot receptacle is replaced with a modern U-ground receptacle (with a third slot for the ground pin). These are often installed in old houses where there is no ground wire in the branch circuit wiring. A false sense of security is created since the outlet looks grounded, but is not.

There are several ways to deal with this condition:
Provide a ground wire for the receptacle. It may be connected to a nearby water pipe or may be carried right back to the panel.
Replace the outlet with a GFI receptacle.
Replace the outlet with a two-slot receptacle (if available).
Fill the ground hole with epoxy or a pin designed for this purpose, so a grounded appliance can't be plugged in. (Not permitted in many areas.)

Ground Fault interrupter (GFI) Instead Of Grounding - This has some disadvantages because it is not as good as grounding, in some respects. If you plug in a power drill (with a grounded three-prong plug) and the hot wire inside the drill touches the metal case, the case will become live. When you pick up the drill, you will get shock. If the ground pin in the drill plug was connected to a house ground system, you would not have gotten a shock.

However, while you'll get a shock, it will only be for a very brief interval, since the GFI will sense the imbalance in the circuit (as electricity flows through the black wire, through you into ground, but not through the neutral wire) and the breaker will trip. With a GFI you'll get a brief shock. With a grounded outlet you would not get a shock at all.

Ground Only Old Outlets Where Needed - In practice, very few people ground their receptacles in an old house unless there is an appliance that relies on grounding. Any appliance with a three-prong plug relies on grounding. Home computers, for example, dissipate static charges through the ground wire. The GFI solution will not be helpful here. You need to ground the outlet.

Double Insulated - Consequently, many appliance manufacturers gave up on grounded plugs, succumbing to the reality of the marketplace. Appliances that are not grounded are now often double insulated to provide additional protection. This means that the outer casing is electrically isolated from the inner casing. If wires get loose inside an appliance, they may contact the inner case, but not the outer case. There should be nothing people can touch on the outside of the appliance that could ever become electrically conductive. This is not grounding, but it does isolate the person from the problem, if all goes well.

It's recommended that you contact a Licensed Electrical Contractor for an evaluation and repairs.

Photo 17  
Electrical - Ungrounded outlet here and various locations.


Recommend installing additional smoke detectors as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway and bedroom.

Several smoke alarms and fire extinguishers must be installed and maintained for proper fire protection. Smoke alarms should be installed on every living level of the home, inside every bedroom, and in the main corridor outside each bedroom area. Fire extinguishers should be installed on each living level, as well as in rooms that pose potential fire hazards (i.e., kitchen, garage, workshop).


Outlet(s) found with reverse polarity in the backyard shed.


Polarity is a confusing issue. Within 120-volt household circuits, if the polarity is correct, the black wire is the hot wire (ungrounded conductor) and the white wire is the neutral wire (grounded conductor). If the polarity is reversed, the white wire is hot and the black is neutral.

Polarized Outlets Have A Wide And Narrow Slot - Some of the old two-slot receptacles were polarized, but many were not. You can tell by looking, because non-polarized plugs have two slots the same size, and polarized receptacles have different-sized slots. The small slot is intended to be the hot connection and the large slot is the neutral.

Polarized Appliance Plugs Have A Wide And Narrow Slot - Some appliances are polarized and some are not. If the appliance is not polarized, the two prongs on the plug will be the same size. (All of this assumes no ground pin on the plug). Polarized appliance plugs, on the other hand, will have a narrow blade and a wider blade. This polarized plug will only fit into a polarized receptacle one way, and wont fit into the old non-polarized receptacles at all. On these type of appliances, including lamps, polarity matters.

Light Bulbs - With some appliances, polarity doesn't matter. This would be true of a clock, for example. However, with lamps, polarity is important. When you screw a light bulb into a socket, the electricity is intended to flow into the light bulb from the button on the bottom of the socket. Its the black or hot connection. The electricity flows through button on the bulb, through the wire (filament) in the bulb, and out of the bulb through the threaded collar around the bulb. The electricity is picked up by the threaded collar of the socket, which is connected to the white or neutral wire.

Collar Neutral - Electrical continuity is achieved by having the button at the bottom of the bulb contact the button at the bottom of the socket to make the hot-side connection. Then, the threaded collar of the light bulb contact the threaded collar of the lamp socket to complete the neutral-side connection.

Power Only At Button - Consider a light fixture with no bulb. If everything is wired correctly, the only live electricity in the empty lamp is in the button at the base of the socket, even if the switch is turned on. A person is much less likely to touch this button than to touch the threaded collar around the socket.

Hard To Touch Button - While its always good practice to turn a lamp off to change the light bulb, many bulbs are changed with the power on. Its easy to touch the threaded collar when screwing in a new light bulb, but its hard to touch the button at the bottom of the socket.

Reversed Polarity Makes Collar Hot - This is why light fixtures are polarized. We don't want the threaded collar to be hot, since you're much more likely to get a shock. We want that threaded collar to be neutral. If the house wiring has reversed polarity, or the lamp is miswired, the threaded collars on light sockets can be electrically live, and people are much more likely to get a shock.

Switched Appliances - Polarity matters with appliances that have switches. When the appliance is plugged in, power should only go as far as the switch. If polarity is reversed, power will go through the entire appliance back to the switch. If a wire comes loose in the appliance, the entire case of the appliance may be electrically, even though the appliance is not on. This is a shock hazard.

You should have the polarity of receptacles checked by an electrician or when your home is inspected by a home inspector. If the receptacles are not polarized, this is not as issue. Polarized appliance plugs will not fit into non-polarized receptacles because the slots are both narrow. The wide blade for the neutral side will not fit in. We trust none of you will ever file off the wide flanges on the neutral blade, since this defeats the protection of polarization.

Test Polarity - Where you have polarized receptacles, which include some of the two-slot receptacles and all of the modern U-ground receptacles, they should be checked for polarity with a portable circuit analyzer. Reversed polarity receptacles need rewiring.

Black Wire To Brass Screw - One of the ways to identify reversed polarity, other than with a tester, is by removing the outlet cover plate. The black wire is typically connected to the brass screw terminal on the outlet, and the white wire is connected to the silver. This color convention is useful but not 100 percent reliable for identifying reversed polarity.

Sometimes the outlet will appear to be wired properly when you take the cover off. The black wire correctly goes to the brass terminal and the white wire correctly goes to the silver terminal. In this case, the polarity has been reversed somewhere upstream, perhaps right at the panel itself. That's why its not completely reliable to look at the receptacle wiring connections to see if polarity is reversed.

Reversed polarity outlets often go unnoticed for a long time. Many appliances will work just fine. However, the polarity has to be right to provide the protection designed into the system.

It's recommended that you contact a Licensed Electrical Contractor for repairs.


Legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate. Legend is to the left of panel.

Photo 14  
Electrical - Update Legend. (Red arrow)

25)   ELECTRICAL OUTLETS - (One Outlet in Kitchen): (UPGRADE) Currently there is only one (1) outlet located in the kitchen. Today's standards require that two (2) 20 Amp Outlets be located in the kitchen, pantry, breakfast area, dining area, or similar area of dwelling.

It's recommended that at least two (2) outlets be placed in the areas mentioned above. This is to accommodate the larger power demands typically associated with these rooms.

26)   ELECTRICAL WIRING - ALUMINUM: (For Your Information)

This home found to have one solid-strand feeder branch (cable) aluminum wiring coming from the Electrical Service Panel. This type of aluminum wiring is known for its potential fire hazard. Problems due to expansion and contraction can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices such as switches and outlets, or at splices. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends either discontinuing use of circuits with aluminum wiring, or pigtailing copper wiring onto the ends of the aluminum wire. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate and repair or replace this wiring.

During the 1970's, aluminum (instead of copper) wiring became quite popular and was extensively used. Since that time, aluminum wiring has been implicated in a number of house fires, and most jurisdictions no longer permit it in new installations. It's recommended, even if you're allowed to, do not use it for new wiring.

But don't panic if your house has aluminum wiring. Aluminum wiring, when properly installed, can be just as safe as copper. Aluminum wiring is, however, very unforgiving of improper installation. We will cover a bit of the theory behind potential problems, and what you can do to make your wiring safe.

The main problem with aluminum wiring is a phenomenon known as "cold creep". When aluminum wiring warms up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Unlike copper, when aluminum goes through a number of warm/cool cycles it loses a bit of tightness each time. To make the problem worse, aluminum oxidises, or corrodes when in contact with certain types of metal, so the resistance of the connection goes up. Which causes it to heat up and corrode / oxidize still more. Eventually the wire may start getting very hot, melt the insulation or fixture it's attached to, and possibly even cause a fire.

Since people usually encounter aluminum wiring when they move into a house built during the 70's, we will cover basic points of safe aluminum wiring. It's suggest that if you purchase a home with aluminum wiring, or have discovered it later, that you hire a licensed electrician or inspector to check over the wiring for the following things:

1) Fixtures (eg: outlets and switches) directly attached to aluminum wiring should be rated for it. The device will be stamped with "Al/Cu" or "CO/ALR". The latter supersedes the former, but both are safe. These fixtures are somewhat more expensive than the ordinary ones.

2) Wires should be properly connected (at least 3/4 way around the screw in a clockwise direction). Connections should be tight. While repeated tightening of the screws can make the problem worse, during the inspection it would pay off to snug up each connection.

Note that aluminum wiring is still often used for the main service entrance cable. It should be inspected.

3) "Push-in" terminals are an extreme hazard with aluminum wire. Any connections using push-in terminals should be redone with the proper screw connections immediately.

4) There should be no signs of overheating: darkened connections, melted insulation, or "baked" fixtures. Any such damage should be repaired.

5) Connections between aluminum and copper wire need to be handled specially. Current Canadian codes require that the wire nut used must be specially marked for connecting aluminum to copper. The NEC (National Electric Code) requires that the wire be connected together using special crimp devices, with an anti-oxidant grease. The tools and materials for the latter are quite expensive - not practical to do it yourself unless you can rent the tool.

6) Any non-rated receptacle can be connected to aluminum wiring by means of a short copper "pigtail".

7) Shows reasonable workmanship: neat wiring, properly stripped (not nicked) wire etc.

If, when considering purchasing a home, an inspection of the wiring shows no problems or only one or two, it's believe that you can consider the wiring safe. If the wrong receptacles are used, you can replace them with the proper type, or use pigtails. You can do this yourself too.

For more information on Aluminum Wiring, please visit the internet and do a search on Aluminum wiring.

27)   Electric Service: The electrical service refers to the wires that run from the street or main pole and enter the house either underground or through the rooftop. The number of wires that enter the panel determine the voltage of the service: 2 wires = 120 volt, 3 wires = 240 volt. A home that has only a 120 volt service would be considered out of date by today's standards because larger appliances that operate at 240 volts cannot be utilized. Electrical load and demand calculations are not performed during this inspection.

Photo 15  
Electrical - Interior view of Electrical Service Panel.
(Main Service Disconnect inside yellow circle)

28)   Wiring Notes: Our inspection of the electrical wiring and fixtures throughout the house will include random testing of outlets and lights. At least one outlet per room, all accessible outlets in the garage and on the exterior, and all outlets within six feet of sinks will be tested for grounding and polarity.
29)   Amperage Requirements for Appliances

Breaker Size / Appliance
100 Amps = Electric Furnace / Main Disconnect
50 Amps = Heat Pump
40 Amps = Electric Range
30 Amps = Clothes Dryer / Hot Water Heater / Central Air
20 Amps = Kitchen / Small Appliances / Power Tools
15 Amps = General Purpose Lighting / TV / Vacuum Cleaner

Individual Appliance Circuits
It is customary to provide a circuit for each of the following appliances:

1 - Range
2 - Water heater
3 - Automatic laundry
4 - Clothes dryer
5 - Garbage disposer
6 - Dishwasher
7 - Furnace
8 - Water pump
Note that these circuits may be either 115 volts or 230 volts, depending on the particular appliance or motor installed.

30)   POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE: The electrical power panel and all associated interior / exterior wiring appears to be in serviceable condition. Wall outlets, switches, light fixtures, cabling, appear to be in good order. The electrical power panel does not show signs of significant deterioration and/or damage. In all, the electrical system shows evidence of normal wear and tear for a home of this age. (Please see above items and Summary Page for exceptions).
HEATING Return to table of contents
Brand / Model: Grimsby / 97.7
Heating System Energy Source: Oil
System Type: Forced Air, Up Draft
Heating Unit Location: Basement
Distribution System: Sheet Metal Ducts
Efficiency: Conventional
Approximate Age: 26 - 30 years, Fan Blower stamped: DEC 1980
Main Fuel Shut Off At: Oil shut-off located at AST (Above Ground Storage Tank)
Oil Tank(s) Location(s): Basement
31)   GAS or OIL FURNACE (Old / Near Life Expectancy): (MONITOR)

The furnace is at it's life expectancy. Even though it's working now, it could totally fail at any time. It's recommended that you price and have a replacement in mind.

20 To 25 Years - Conventional gas or oil furnaces typically last 20 to 25 years. Furnaces are usually replaced when the heat exchanger fails. Other minor components are typically replaced when they fail.

Problem Furnaces - Some furnaces are known by reputation to fail early on a regular basis. Talk to local installers and service people to get a sense of which furnaces are trouble-some in your service area.

Exceptions - Some furnaces last considerably longer than the statistical averages. We have seen conventional forced-air furnaces approaching 40 years of service.

Mid- and High- efficiency Furnaces - The life expectancy of mid- and high-efficiency furnaces is more difficult to predict, since these systems have not been around as long as conventional furnaces. Early experience suggests that they are higher maintenance, as might be expected since there are many more components. There is also some question as to the durability of the modern, restrictive heat exchanger.

Different Materials - Several different materials have been used for heat exchangers and inevitably some will perform better than others.

Gravity - Gravity furnaces have not been made for more than 20 years in many areas. Whenever you see one, it is probably safe to say it is close to the end of its life.

Combination Systems - Combination systems are relatively new, and since the furnace side is relatively simple, there is no reason to expect a short life expectancy. If the fan or coil in the furnace fails, it can probably be replaced without replacing the entire furnace.

Service Date: No service date sticker was located at time of inspection. Ideally, it's recommended you have the heating / cooling system serviced once a year or no more than every two years.

Photo 51  
Heating - Atomizing Oil Burner (For Your Information)


The fan belt may be old or may not have been adjusted properly on original installation. If the blower or motor is not well secured, the belt can become loose or misaligned. Belts may slip because pulley flanges are loose or misaligned. The sheaves on the pulleys are adjustable.

If the belt does not transfer energy efficiently from the motor to the blower, the blower won?t turn properly. This will result in decreased airflow through the house, causing poor comfort, high heating costs and perhaps a shortened life expectancy for the heat exchanger.

If the belt is too loose, it will slip. This is often accompanied by a squealing noise. If the belt is too tight, the bearings may wear excessively and the motor may have to work too hard. A motor that is overheating may be the result of a fan belt that?s too tight.

Look for cracks in the belt. If you are sure you have shut the power off, you can move the belt around so you can see it all. The tension on the belt should be such that you can push the belt in about one inch, at the halfway point between the pulleys. On some units, the movement is designed to be less than this (as little as one-half inch).

It's recommended that you have the furnace serviced at your earliest opportunity.

Photo 50  
Heating - Fan Belt Diagram (For Your Information)


It's highly recommended that you have the furnace (located in the shed) serviced and operationally tested prior to first use.

Photo 10  
Furnace - Service and test prior to first use. (Recommendation)
* Flue In contact with combustible material (red circle).
* Combustible material place on furnace (yellow arrow).

34)   Above Ground Storage Tank (AST) Information:

Serial Number: B582735
Year Manufactured: 2003
Capacity: 680 Liters
Thickness: 2.0m

Photo 47  
AST Notes:
* Recommend placement of "goose neck" on vent pipe upon next fill of tank (red arrow).
* Recommend keeping items away from fuel oil line (green arrow).
COOLING Return to table of contents
Air Condition Brand: Kenmore
Air Conditioning Energy Source: Electric
Air Conditioning Type: Air Cooled
Distribution: Sheet Metal
Air Conditioning Type: Split System
Compressor Unit Location: North Exterior Wall

Compressor found to be Out-of-Level. The condensing units should be within approximately 10 degrees of level. Allow it appears to be within 10 degrees level, it should be monitored for further settlement and corrected if necessary.

Units may be out of level because of poor installation or settlement of the ground below the unit. The compressor may not be properly lubricated if the unit is not level.

The other implication of a compressor out of level is slugging. This means that a slug of liquid can be suddenly released into the compressor. The compressor was not designed to compress liquids. This is very hard on the compressor.

Oil traveling with the refrigerant through the tubing may become trapped if the unit is out of level. This reduces the lubricant available to the compressor and may cause compressor failure.

Another implication of condensing units being out of level is the refrigerant lines breaking as a result of the stresses placed on lines by the unit.


The Refrigerant Line, at the Condenser Unit (Outside), has minor insulation damage. Refrigerant Lines which contain cold vapor should be insulated to prevent condensation from forming.

Note: With conventional Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps, this is the larger tube between the Evaporator Coil and the outdoor unit.

It's recommended that you make repairs to insulation and monitor for further settle.

Photo 33  
Cooling - Minor insulation damage.

Photo 34  
Cooling - A/C condenser out-of-level.


Outdoor air temperature below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius), unable to operate and/or fully evaluate cooling system. Operation of the Air Conditioning System during low temperatures, could damage the condenser or heat pump.

A diagram has been provided to show the basic physical location of component locations.

Photo 23  
Cooling - View of A/C Condenser.

Photo 52  
Cooling - Air Conditioning Components (For Your Information)

37)   POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE: Although the system was tested, the cooling system(s) and all associated interior duct work, floor and/or ceiling supply registers appears to be in serviceable condition. Wall return registers, thermostat(s), appear to be in good order. The cooling condenser (located outside) and evaporator (typically located above furnace enclosure and if able to be seen) does not show signs of significant deterioration and/or damage. In all, the cooling system shows evidence of normal wear and tear for a home of this age. (Please see Summary Page for exceptions).
PLUMBING Return to table of contents
Excluded Plumbing Items: Concealed Plumbing
Service Water Shut Off Location: West Wall, Basement
Service Water Meter Location: West Wall, Basement
Water Service: Public
Supply Pipe Material: Copper
Vent Pipe Material: Plastic
Waste / Drain Pipe Material: Plastic
Waste Disposal System: Public
Water Heater Location / Type: Basement, Owned
Water Heater Fuel: 40 Gallon, Electric

Leak observed underneath kitchen sink. Recommend repairing leak to prevent damage to surrounding area


Deep sink located in the basement has no P-Trap installed. Having no P-Trap in place could allow sewer gases to back up and enter into the house. This is a health hazard. It's recommended that you contact a qualified plumber or person to make repairs as soon as possible.

Photo 11  
Plumbing - No P-Trap installed at basement deep-sink.

Photo 16  
Plumbing - Sink piping leaks. (Kitchen)


A conventional TPR valve not used with this type of water heater. Water heaters are sealed systems which contain a great deal of pressure. The TPR (Temperature & Pressure Relief) valve is a device designed to release excessive pressure from the system. There should be a drain pipe attached to this valve which terminates at a safe location away from body contact. Water heaters sometimes make gurgling noises which are typically the result of built up calcium inside the tank.

The Pressure Relief Valve was located behind the water heater, in the storage area. No drain line seen from valve.

Recommend having a licensed plumber install a drain line extending to within 6" from the floor, or routed so as to drain outside.

Brand: Cascade 40
Model: JWA525DE (Canadian Tire Corp)
Capacity: 40 Gallon
Serial: 452626-8007

Please review manufactures instruction manual at: Giant Factories Inc.

Photo 12  
Plumbing - Cascade 40 Water Heater (Electric).


The dryer exhaust vent terminates underneath the back living room crawl space. It's recommended that this exhaust vent be rerouted to the exterior of the crawl space. Implications: Heat from the dryer (especially during winter months) will cause condensation (moisture) to form and possibly damage the floor joists.

Photo 9  
Plumbing - Dryer exhaust vent terminates in crawlspace. (yellow circle).
Duct should be routed in direction of red arrow.

41)   Main Water Line: The main water supply pipe brings water from the street to the home. Older pipe materials may be 1/2" or 3/4" galvanized steel. This type of pipe corrodes internally and may not deliver the volume of water now needed throughout the house. Now a days, 3/4" copper or plastic pipe is the minimum currently used in modern construction. Normal water pressure is between 35 and 80 PSI. Excessive pressure can wear on valves, fittings, fixtures and appliances.

Photo 13  
Plumbing Service:
* Main service shutoff valve (yellow circle)
* Water Meter (white circle)
* Flow direction (blue arrow)

42)   POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE: The plumbing system appears to be in serviceable condition. Visible drain and supply lines / pipes, faucets, cut-out valves, toilets, showers, sinks and laundry facilities appears to be in good order. In all, the plumbing system and components shows evidence of normal wear and tear for a home of this age. (Please see Summary Page for exceptions).
CRAWL SPACE Return to table of contents
Inspection Method: Traversed
Insulation Material Underneath Floor "Above": Fiberglass Roll or Batt
Floor Structure Above: Solid Wood Joists
Vapor Barrier Present: No
There is no Vapor Barrier present. Recommend installing 6 mil polyethylene with seams overlapped at least 24" so no soil is exposed in the crawlspace. This will help prevent moisture from reaching the floor joists, and possibly causing mold build-up on the joists.

Some insulation in the crawlspace has fallen down. Recommend reinstalling or replacing this insulation.

Photo 24  
Crawlspace - Vapor barrier recommended.

Photo 25  
Crawlspace - Insulation missing.

Photo 26  
Crawlspace - Vapor barrier recommended.

This report is intended only as a general guide to help the CLIENT make his/her own evaluation of the overall condition of the home, and is not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase.

The report expresses the personal opinions of Roberts Home Inspection Service, based upon visual impressions of the conditions that existed AT THE TIME of the inspection only.

The inspection and the report are not intended to be technically exhaustive, or to imply that every component was inspected, or that every possible defect was discovered.
No disassembly of equipment, opening of walls, moving of furniture, appliances or stored items, or excavation was performed.

All components and conditions, which by nature of their location are concealed, camouflaged or difficult to inspect, are excluded from the report.


** Please Read General Notes Below **



Areas hidden from view by finished walls or stored items cannot be judged and are not part of this inspection. Minor cracks are typical in many foundations and most do not represent a structural problem. If major cracks are present along with bowing, we routinely recommend further evaluation by a qualified structural engineer. All exterior grades should allow for surface and roof water to flow away from the foundation. All concrete floor slabs experience some degree of cracking due to shrinkage in the drying process. In most case instances, floor coverings prevent recognition of cracks or settlement in all but the most severe cases. Where carpeting and other floor coverings are in stalled, the materials and condition of the flooring underneath cannot be determined.


The foregoing is an opinion of the general quality and condition of the roofing material. The Inspector cannot and does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or may be subject to leakage. This report is issued in consideration of the foregoing disclaimer. There are many different roof types, and every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance. However, regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing the roof material, and this is equally true of almost all roofs. Material on most pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof only water-resistant.
There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable. They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty to twenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years, and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced with mastic, which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage.
However, among the pitched roofs, gravel ones are the least dependable, because the low pitch and the gravel prevent them from draining as readily as other roofs. For this reason, they must be conscientiously maintained. In this respect, the least dependable of all roofs are the flat ones, which are also called built-up ones. Some flat roofs are adequately sloped toward drains but many are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation. However, the most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced or kept clean, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels.
What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific
water tests, which are beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installer can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such guarantees. We will examine every roof, evaluate it, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not predict is remaining life expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.


Water quality or hazardous materials (lead) testing is available from local Testing Labs. All underground piping related to water supply, waste, or sprinkler use are excluded from this inspection, unless specifically requested for. Leakage or corrosion in underground piping cannot be detected by a visual inspection.


Some furnaces are designed in such a way that inspection is almost impossible. The Inspector will not light (ignite) "pilot lights". Safety devices are NOT tested by the Inspector.
NOTE: Asbestos materials have been commonly used in heating systems. Determining the presence of asbestos can ONLY be preformed by laboratory testing, and is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Thermostats are not checked for calibration or timed functions. Adequacy, efficiency or even the distribution of air throughout a building cannot be addressed by a visual inspection. Electronic air cleaners, humidifiers and de-humidifiers are beyond the scope of this inspection. Have these systems evaluated by a qualified individual. The Inspector does not perform pressure tests on coolant systems, therefore no representation is made regarding coolant charge or line integrity.


Any electrical repairs attempted by anyone other than a licensed electrician should not be attempted. If a house has aluminum wiring, it should have periodic inspections and maintenance by a licensed electrician. Operation of Time Clock Motors is not verified. Inoperative light fixtures often lack bulbs or have dead bulbs installed. Light bulbs are not changed during the inspection, due to time constraints. Smoke alarms should be installed within 15 feet of all bedroom doors, and tested regularly.


The most significant aspects of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters, and for this reason we are particularly diligent when we evaluate site conditions. In fact, we compare all sites to an ideal. In short, the ideal property will have soils that slope away from the house, and the interior floors will be at least several inches higher than the exterior grade. Also, the residence will have gutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains with catch basins that carry water away to hard surfaces. If a property does not meet this ideal, or if any portion of the interior floor is below the exterior grade, we will not endorse it, even though there may be no evidence of moisture intrusion, and recommend that you consult with a grading and drainage contractor. We have discovered evidence of moisture intrusion inside homes when it was raining that would not have been apparent otherwise.

You're One Step Closer To Being In That New Home !!!

If You Have Any Questions, Please E-Mail Me (Robert) At

National Association of Certified Home Inspectors

"NACHI Member # 03102906"


** Home Inspection Contract **

( Listed Below )


The address of the property is: 491 Your Street, AnyTown, AnyWhere

Fee for the Home Inspection is $XXX.00

THIS AGREEMENT made the 26th day of March 2006, by and between Robert Schenck (Hereinafter INSPECTOR) and the undersigned John Doe (hereinafter CLIENT").

The Parties Understand and Agree as follows:

1. INSPECTOR GUARANTEES to perform a visual inspection of the home and to provide CLIENT with a written inspection report identifying the defects that INSPECTOR both observed and deemed material. INSPECTOR may offer comments as a courtesy, but these comments will not comprise the bargained-for report. The report is only supplementary to the sellers disclosure.

2. INSPECTOR agrees to perform the inspection in accordance to the current Standards of Practice of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors posted at

3. CLIENT understands that the inspection will be performed in accordance to the aforementioned Standards, which contain certain limitations, exceptions, and exclusions.

4. The Inspection and Report are performed and prepared for the use of CLIENT, who gives INSPECTOR permission to discuss observations with real estate agents, owners, repairpersons, and other interested parties. INSPECTOR accepts no responsibility for use or misinterpretation by third parties.

5. INSPECTOR does not perform engineering, architectural, plumbing, or any other job function requiring an occupational license in the jurisdiction where the inspection is taking place, unless the inspector holds a valid occupational license, in which case he/she may inform the CLIENT that he/she is so licensed, and is therefore qualified to go beyond this basic home inspection, and for additional fee, perform additional inspections beyond those within the scope of the basic home inspection.

6. In the event of a claim against INSPECTOR, CLIENT agrees to supply INSPECTOR with the following: (1) Written notification of adverse conditions within 14 days of discovery, and (2) Access to the premises. Failure to comply with the above conditions will release INSPECTOR and its agents from any and all obligations.

7. In the event that CLIENT fails to prove any adverse claims against INSPECTOR in a court of law, CLIENT agrees to pay all legal costs, expenses and fees of INSPECTOR in defending said claims.

8. If any court declares any provision of this Agreement invalid or unenforceable, the remaining provisions will remain in effect. This agreement represents the entire agreement between the parties. No change or modification shall be enforceable against any party unless such change or modification is in writing and signed by the parties. This Agreement shall be binding upon and enforceable by the parties and their heirs, executors, administrators, successors and assignees. CLIENT shall have no cause of action against INSPECTOR after one year from the date of the inspection.

9. Payment is due upon completion of the on-site inspection. The CLIENT agrees to pay all legal and time expenses incurred in collecting due payments.

10. HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENT: CLIENT agrees to hold any and all Real Estate Agents involved in the purchase of the property to be inspected harmless and keep them exonerated from all loss, damage, liability or expense occasioned or claimed by reasons of acts or neglects of the INSPECTOR or his employees or visitors or of independent contractors engaged or paid by INSPECTOR for the purpose of inspecting the subject home


__________________________________________________________ DATE:

__________________________________________________________ DATE: