Website: http://www.home-spec.com
Email: mike@home-spec.com
Phone: (705) 693-5000 · (705) 507-2474
FAX: (705) 693-1093
355 Goodwill Drive 
Garson, ON P3L 1E8
Inspector: Mike Gauthier

Summary Page

SAMPLE Inspection Report
Client(s):	Omitted
Property address:	Omitted
Inspection date:	Thursday, December 06, 2007

This summary page published on 12/9/2007 3:06:10 PM EST

IN A NUTSHELL...

Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a potential risk of injury or death
	Major defect	Correction likely involves a significant expense
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Repair/Maintain	Recommend repair and/or maintenance
	Minor defect	Correction likely involves only a minor expense
	Maintain	Recommend ongoing maintenance
	Evaluate	Recommend evaluation by a specialist
	Monitor	Recommend monitoring in the future
	Comment	For your information

1) Exterior: - One or more wall-mounted exterior light fixtures have wiring that's subject to water intrusion due to caulk not being installed around the light fixture's back plate. Caulk should be applied around the perimeter of back plates where missing. A gap should be left at the bottom for condensation to drain out.
2) Exterior: - One or more outside faucets are missing backflow prevention devices. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing backflow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed. For more information, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_AE079
Also see [url=http://www.crd.bc.ca/water/crossconnection/DetailofIncidents.htm]
3) Exterior: - The structure appears to be experiencing what is known as differential settlement. This occurs when a portion of the structure settles more than another portion of the same structure. This is most commonly caused by: under-sized footing, poor soil compaction, undermining of soil under footings or breaks in the weeping system. The sump pit was evaluated for sand accumulation. All was fine there.

The inspector notes the following findings:

-one or more moderate cracks at the front center of the foundation,
-a moderate slope in the sight-line of the front brick mortar and cantilevered structure above,
-two moderate cracks in the rear center and LH portion of the foundation,
-a moderate slope in the sight-line of the rear brick mortar,
-repairs to one or more cracks that have re-opened,
-diagonal crack formations in the brick veneer, where the settlement is oriented downward,
-main floor structures slope downward toward the exterior, an example is the rear LH bedroom being off level at a rate of 1-1/2" over 12ft,
-no downpipe extensions at both terminations,
-a few repaired and repainted areas inside.

The inspector is very confident of this analysis and fears the settlement may be slowly ongoing. The inspector makes no comment as to what indeed caused this settlement.

At the time of the inspection, the inspector did not suspect concerns of collapse.

Client may wish to ask seller to have this further evaluated by a qualified structural engineer to determine, if possible, that the settlement is ongoing or not.

(NOTE: This evaluation was later validated by a structural eng.)

4) Exterior: - One or more deck structures are attached to the home and bears on non-footed blocks or pads resting on the ground.
The ground on which the deck is bearing may expand and/or compress; compromising the attachment to the home. This could place undue stress on the deck and home.
Recommend having a qualified contractor further evaluate this and repair/replace as necessary.
5) Exterior: - One or more downspouts have no extensions, or have extensions that are ineffective. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.
6) Exterior: - One or more exhaust duct end caps are damaged and/or deteriorated. Their purpose is to prevent unconditioned air from entering the house, and keep out birds, rodents and bugs. Blocked ducts can cause fan motors and/or clothes dryers to overheat and may pose a fire hazard. New vent cap(s) should be installed where necessary.
7) Roof: - Although only a small portion of the fully snow-covered roof was cleared, the asphalt shingle roofing material could be dated just the same. The cleared portion appears to indicate the shingle are newer and not original.
However, like most systems within a home, roofing needs to be evaluated annually as to potential for leaks and maintained as necessary.
Things to look for include: loose or missing shingles, excessive curling, popped nails, ice damage, deterioration of the ceramic (stone) granular coating on the surface of the shingles, flashing, and dried/cracked tar at joints/transitions/protrusions etc.
11) Electric service: - Wire exiting electrical boxes of any kind must be attached to the surrounding structure within 12" from the box.
Recommend attaching all loose wires using appropriate wire staples or clamps.
12) Water heater: - The last service date of this system appears to be more than one year ago. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when it was last serviced. Either rented or owned water heaters need servicing and cleaning to ensure optimal and safe operation. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
13) Water heater: - Sediment acculates at the bottom of water heaters, this sediment is sometimes disturbed by gusts of water usage leading to murky water at times.
It is good practice to drain a few gallons of water from the tank twice per year. This can be done by firmly attaching a garden hose to the bib at the side base of the water heater, leading the hose to a drain and opening the drain valve for a few seconds.
Note that this is best performed after the water has not flowed for several hours to ensure all sediment is at the very bottom of the tank. Early morning works for most.

If the heater is natural gas fired, be sure to keep the floor area under and around the heater clean and as dust-free as possible. Dust can get sucked in the air intake port at the very bottom on the heater causing clogs in the burnuer orifices and reduce the heater's efficiency.
17) Plumbing and laundry: - No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection device is visible for the sump pump electric supply. A qualified electrician should determine if a GFCI protection device (receptacle or circuit breaker) exists for the sump pump and install one if missing to reduce the danger of electric shock.
18) Plumbing and laundry: - The sump pump drain is much too long and discharges near the foundation wall. This defeats the purpose all together since water will easily return to the weeping system. Furthermore, the curled-up drin line will freeze and block.
Recommend diverting the drain line so that it terminates at least 10ft from the foundation wall.
19) Plumbing and laundry: - The laundry sink is not anchored to the wall or floor. A qualified contractor should securely anchor the sink to the wall and/or floor to prevent damage to and leaks in the water supply and/or drain pipes due to the sink being moved.
20) Plumbing and laundry: - The sump pump appeared to be inoperable. This is a conducive condition for water accumulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
21) Plumbing and laundry: - The main water shut-off valve serves as an emergency stop for the pressurized water supply system. An improperly working main valve could lead to worse water damage should a pipe burst for example.
Recommend testing the valve annually by following these steps.
1. Slowly turn the valve handle clockwise until it seats,
2. Open a nearby faucet to observe that no water is available (this may take a minute to depresurize the lines),
3. Once satisfied that the valve actually stops the flow, slowly turn the valve counterclockwise until seated in the fully opened position,
4. "Unseat" the valve by closing it a 1/4 turn.

Should the flow continue at step 2, have a qualified plumber evaluate for repair or replacement of the defective valve.
26) Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys: - The glass on one or more gas fireplaces and/or stoves has a hazy film. This is typically a mineral residue left from water vapor as the gas burns. It may be possible to clean this fogging by removing the glass from the fireplace and using a gas appliance ceramic glass cleaner, available through gas fireplace and stove distributors and installers. Ammonia-based products, such as common glass cleaners should not be used since they may cause damage or etching to the glass, or make the haze permanent.

It may be possible for a homeowner to remove the glass for cleaning, depending on if the instructions or manual for the fireplace are available, and if the homeowner is experienced in such repairs. Recommend consulting with a gas fireplace installation contractor for more information, or to have them do the cleaning.
28) Basement: - One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
29) Basement: - Cover plate(s) are broken at one or more electrical boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be replaced where necessary.
31) Kitchen: - One or more electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
32) Bathrooms: - One or more exhaust fans is inoperable or provides inadequate air flow. Moisture may accumulate as a result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace the fan or make repairs as necessary.
33) Bathrooms: - The basement bathroom exhaust fan is terminated within the basement laundry room.
This practice underminds the effort emphasized for home ventilation.
Eccess moisture in the basement may eventually lead to mildew, rot and eventually structural issues.
Recommend redirecting exhausts to the outside, preferably away from windows and doors.
34) Bathrooms: - Caulk is missing or deteriorated around the base of one or more bathtub spouts. It should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to wall structures.
36) Interior rooms: - One or more electric baseboard heaters are installed with an electric receptacle located above. Insulation on appliance cords in contact with the heater(s) may be damaged by the heat. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, converting receptacles to junction boxes, moving receptacles and/or moving baseboard heaters.
37) Interior rooms: - One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
38) Interior rooms: - The Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is in need of cleaning. Much debris and insects can accumulate in the unit, reducing flow though the unit's filter.
Recommend washing filters and vacuuming the inner accessible surfaces as well as cleaning the cubic exchange core.
The core can be pulled out horizontally and pressure washed using a garden hose.
39) Interior rooms: - Note: In order to prevent cold spots at exterior walls, be sure to keep items and furniture at least 3” away from exterior walls.
Placing such items too close to the wall will create conducive conditions for mold and moisture damage. The science behind this is that moisture seeks to condensate and will be attracted to cool spots in the home. This also explains why windows often steam-up during cool weather. And with a steady source of moisture on surfaces, this makes it attractive to mold and other fungal species. Pulling items away from these exterior walls with ensure that heat from the home keeps surfaces dry.