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(518) 505-8305
3 Maple Terrace 
Delmar NY, 12054 
Inspector: David O'Keefe
NYS lic.# 16000038229
INACHI # 08051301
DEC Termite # T4865884

Residential Inspection Report

Client(s):  Mr. & Mrs. Report Sample
Property address:  10 Main St
Hometown, NY 11111
Inspection date:  Wednesday, October 22, 2014

This report published on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 7:53:30 PM EDT

Thank you for choosing
HouseAbout Home Inspections
. I am confident you will be satisfied with the services I provided. This report outlines the inspection observations, concerns, problems, and any recommendations.

Included in this report is a summary page for your convenience, this is just an overview of major items and/or significant safety related issues that were observed at the time of the inspection. This is not a complete listing of problems, further evaluations needed, or recommendations. In addition, pictures are included to help you understand and see what I saw at the time of the inspection. They are intended to show an example or illustration of an area of concern but may not show every occurrence and may not accurately depict its severity. Also note that not all areas of concern will be pictured. Do not rely on pictures alone. Please read the complete inspection report before your inspection contingency period expires.

Please read through the entire report and review the photographs with any commentary

If, after reading the report you have any questions about the report, or conditions of the house, please feel free to contact me. I would be happy to clarify anything that is unclear.

This report is confidential and the exclusive property of
HouseAbout Home Inspections
and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use or duplication of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited. Inspector assumes no liability for any third party misuse or reliance.


David O'Keefe

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
Major DefectCorrection or replacement likely involves a significant expense ($1,500+)
Safety IssueItem poses a risk to health, of injury or possible death
Repair/ReplaceRecommend correction by repairing or replacing
Specialist EvaluateRecommend evaluation/inspection by a qualified specialist
Minor DefectMinor expense to correct and/or minor defect
Improve / UpgradeRecommend improving/upgrading to today's standards
Maintain / ServiceRecommend ongoing maintenance or periodic service to extend life of item
Not or Limited InspectionItem or component was not inspected/tested or limited inspection done
Informational CommentFor your information
Conducive conditionsConditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.Contact your inspector If there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at

Table of Contents

General Information
Exterior: Foundation and Landscaping
Exterior: Walls, Windows and Doors
Exterior: Roof and Ventilation System
Chimney, Fireplace, Woodstove
General Interior
Heating and Cooling Systems
Domestic Water Heater
Plumbing/Fuel System
Well Flow Test
Water Quality Test
Electric Service
Health & Safety Concerns and Recommendations
Wood Destroying Insect and Rot
Radon Test

View summary

General Information
Table of contents
Report number: 102214
Time inspection started: 9:40 am
Time inspection finished: 12:10 pm
Inspector's name: David O'Keefe
NYS License #: 16000038229
NYS DEC Certification #: T4865884
InterNACHI Certification #: 08051301
Present during inspection: Buyer, buyers agent, seller and sellers agent were present during the inspection
Neighborhood: The home was located on a quiet rural road.
Weather conditions: The sky was cloudy during the inspection.
Temperature: Cool temperatures recorded during the inspection (36-69 F).
Ground condition: The ground was dry at time of inspection.
Type of building: The home was a single family residence.
Structures Inspected: An inspection was conducted on the house only.
Age of home: The approximate age of the building is 46 years
Occupied: Yes, the home was occupied at time of inspection.
Foundation type: The home had a full basement
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Private sewage disposal system, Private well, Shed, Water flitration system, Generator system
1) Not or Limited Inspection, Informational Comment - Limitations
The residence was furnished at the time of the inspection and portions of the interior were hidden by the occupant's belongings. In accordance with industry standards we only inspect those surfaces that are exposed and readily accessible. We do not move furniture, lift carpets or rugs, nor do we remove or rearrange items within closets or cabinets. On your final walk through, or at some point after furniture and personal belongings have been removed, it is important that you inspect the interior portions of the residence that were concealed or otherwise inaccessible and contact us immediately if any adverse conditions are observed that were not reported on in your inspection report.
2) Not or Limited Inspection - Appliances
The appliances were not tested for a complete cycle or under real load applications. The inspection of appliances is limited to basic response of basic features only and to listen for unusual noises. How well the appliances will perform under real conditions is unknown.
3) Informational Comment - General Information
1) Inspection was completed using the Standards of Practice of New York State as a Guideline. The inspection contracts and the limitations and standards specified therein are an integral part of this report.
For New York State's Standards of Practice go to:
2) Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection and should be addressed separately. This inspection will not result in the information of presence of any environmental hazard that may be present, although if noticed in the course of my inspection may be reported as a possible concern. There may be environmental concerns that although may be present were not seen by the inspection today since I am not here for that type of inspection.
3) Water is a very destructive force and should be controlled on the outside to reduce problems that may go undetected for some time on the inside/under the house. Drainage patterns should be monitored and improved as needed to carry water away from foundation. Extend leaders to discharge at least 6' away from building to reduce moisture penetration and foundation damage.
4) Moisture problems may exist in the basement/crawl space as noted in the report and should be evaluated/corrected as possible serious issues. Moisture is a very destructive force that over time may result in structural issues along with health related issues. Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection however and should be evaluated separately if warranted.
4) Informational Comment - Not a Code Inspection
The General Home Inspection is not a building code-compliance inspection, but a visual inspection for safety and system defects. The Inspection Report may comment on and identify as problems systems, components and/or conditions which may violate building codes, but although safety defects and building code violations may coincide at the time of the inspection, confirmation of compliance with any building code or identification of any building code violation is not the goal of this Inspection Report and lies beyond the scope of the General Home Inspection.
If you wish to ascertain the degree to which the home complies with any applicable building codes, you should schedule a building code-compliance inspection.
5) Informational Comment - Estimates/Repairs
The client is advised to seek at least two professional opinions and acquire estimates of repairs as to any defects, comments, mentions, and recommendations in report. Recommend professionals making any repairs inspect the property further in order to discover and repair related problems that were not identified in the report. Recommend that all repair concerns and cost estimates be completed and documented prior to closing or purchasing property.
6) Informational Comment - Foundation Cracks
In accordance with my standards of practice, I identify foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces in foundations are quite common. In fact, it would be rare to find a raised foundation wall that was not cracked or deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation that did not include some cracks concealed beneath the carpeting and padding. Fortunately, most of these cracks are related to the curing process or to common settling, including some wide ones called cold-joint separations that typically contour the footings, but others can be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils that can predicate more or less continual movement. We will certainly alert you to any suspicious cracks if they are clearly visible. However, I am not a specialists, and in the absence of any major defects I may not recommend that you consult with a foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert.
7) Informational Comment - Pictures
Pictures are included to help you understand and see what I saw at the time of the inspection. They are intended to show an example or illustration of an area of concern but may not show every occurrence and may not accurately depict its severity. Also note that not all areas of concern will be pictured. Do not rely on pictures alone. Please read the complete inspection report.
Exterior: Foundation and Landscaping
Table of contents
Driveway material: The gravel driveway was in good condition
Walkway to front entry: No walkway/ sidewalk was noted at this home
Grading within 6 feet of house: Grade on the left side of the home slopes toward the foundation
Exterior Foundation Exposure: Areas of exposed foundation varied on this home
Exterior of foundation walls: The foundations walls were constructed using Concrete Block, A parge coat covered some of the foundation exterior surface
Observed on exterior foundation: Loose and/or missing mortar
Basement windows, conditions: Glass block, good condition
Window Wells, condition: No window wells noted during inspection
Trees and/or Shrubs: Trees/shrubs were not too close to the foundation
Retaining wall: Retaining walls were constructed using Concrete Masonry Units (CMU)
Condition of retaining wall: The retaining walls appeared to be in good condition at the time of the inspection
Deck material: The basic deck structure was built of wood.
Deck Condition: All visible deck components appeared to be in fair/serviceable condition at the time of the inspection.
Condition of the guardrail: Wide gaps in guardrails are a safety issue
Condition of steps: Steps were in good/working condition at time of inspection
Visibility under deck: The under side of deck was not visible
8) Safety Issue, Repair/Replace - Guardrails
One or more guardrails were unsafe due to large gaps at time of inspection. This is a safety issue. Standard building practices require that they:
  • Be installed where walking surfaces are more than 30 inches above the surrounding grade
  • Be securely and permanently attached
  • Be at least 36 inches in height
  • Not be climbable by children
  • Not have gaps or voids that allow passage of a sphere equal to or greater than four inches in diameter

A qualified contractor should repair, replace or install guardrails as necessary, and as per standard building practices.
Visit: , for more information.
Photo 8-1 Large gaps noted in deck railings, 9"
Photo 8-2 Large gaps noted in railing, 10"
Photo 8-3 Deck is shown
Photo 8-4 Illustration of proper distance between balusters
9) Repair/Replace, Conducive conditions - Soil Grading
The perimeter grading sloped towards the structure on the North (left) side of the structure. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms. Excessive moisture content in soil supporting the foundation can cause foundation and other structural damage from undermining, heaving or settling, depending on soil composition, moisture content and other conditions. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with a slope of at least 5% (10% or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet.
For more information visit: or
Photo 9-1 Soil on left side of home slopes toward foundation
Photo 9-2 Illustration, swale around foundation
10) Minor Defect, Conducive conditions - Foundation
Mortar between concrete foundation blocks was missing at various locations. Advice tuck-pointing by a qualified mason to prevent further damage from water and infiltration by wood destroying insects.
Photo 10-1 Loose/missing mortar
Photo 10-2 Loose/missing mortar
11) Minor Defect, Conducive conditions - Gaps in Foundation
Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
Photo 11-1 Gap in foundation
Photo 11-2 Gap in foundation
12) Not or Limited Inspection - Deck/Porch
All areas of the deck substructure were inaccessible due to lack of access from limited height (less than 18 inches). These areas couldn't be evaluated and are excluded from the inspection.
Exterior: Walls, Windows and Doors
Table of contents
Apparent wall structure: Walls were of wood frame construction
Primary Wall Covering Material: Exterior walls of the home were covered with vinyl
General Condition of Covering: Material covering the exterior walls of the home appeared to be in good condition
Trim material: Exterior trim was composed of vinyl
Trim Condition: Exterior trim was in good condition at time of inspection
Exterior doors: Exterior doors operated well when tested
Condition of windows (exterior): Peeling paint noted on exterior of wood windows
Number of Exterior outlets: The home had no exterior electrical outlets at the time of the inspection, (see "Electrical" section)
Doorbell: No doorbell was installed, or was missing at this home
13) Minor Defect, Maintain / Service - Windows/ Peeling Paint
Window exteriors had peeling paint and needed maintenance to prevent continued deterioration. Maintaining window exteriors on an annual basis will extend their lifespan. Windows are expensive to replace.
Photo 13-1 Peeling paint noted on exterior of window
14) Minor Defect - Doorbell: Missing/ Not Working
Doorbell missing. Recommend repair or replacement.
Exterior: Roof and Ventilation System
Table of contents
Roof inspection method: The Inspector inspected the roof and its components by walking the roof
Roof type: The home had a gabled roof
Roof covering: Primary roof covering was asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Roof Age: The roof was estimated to be in the middle of its useful life
Number of roof layers: The roof had one layer of material installed
Visible Roof Ventilation: Continuous ridge, soffit & gable vents were installed as ventilation
Roof Penetrations: Plumbing vent pipes penetrated the roof covering
Condition of flashing: Loose flashing noted
Defects Observed: The roof appeared to be in good condition at time of inspection
Roof requires this action: No further action is recommended at this time
Gutter & downspout material: The gutters were made of aluminum
Gutter Condition: Debris visible in the gutters at the time of the inspection should be removed
15) Minor Defect - Flashing
Section of flashing was loose and should be secured to prevent any leaks from occurring.
Photo 15-1 Loose flashing noted above gutter
16) Maintain / Service, Not or Limited Inspection - Gutters
1. Debris(leaves,needles,etc) has accumulated in the gutters. This prevents the gutters from doing there job (directing ran water away from the foundation). In winter, water will freeze in the gutters and damage them. It may also cause ice jams on the roof. This can lead to leaks.Therefore, it is recommended that the gutters be cleaned at least twice a year to prevent debris buildup. Be careful cleaning the gutters yourself, or hire a contractor with the proper equipment to clean them for you.
2. The gutters appeared to be in acceptable condition. However, without water in them it is difficult to judge whether they are sealed at the seams and correctly pitched to direct water into the downspouts, but they should function as they were intended.
Photo 16-1 Debris in gutter should be removed
Photo 16-2 Debris in gutters
17) Informational Comment - Shingles
The fiberglass asphalt composition shingles covering the roof of this home showed minor granule loss and deterioration. They appeared to be adequately protecting the underlying home structure at the time of the inspection.
Note: Opinions stated herein concerning the roof are in regard to the general condition of the roofing surface as evidenced by my visual review at the time of the inspection. These do not constitute a guarantee or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or may be subject to leaking. Roof pitches are not calculated.
Photo 17-1 Roof is shown in photo
Photo 17-2 Roof is shown in photo
Photo 17-3 Small areas of deterioration to shingles noted
Photo 17-4 One layer of shingles noted
Cabinets: Kitchen cabinets were made of wood.
Cabinets secure: Yes, cabinets were properly secured.
Opened and closed and found: Seemed to function at time of inspection
Counter Tops: Laminate counter tops were secure at time of the inspection
Kitchen Sink: The kitchen sink was stainless steel
Ran water and found: No leaks were observered at time of inspection, sink sprayer was defective
Disposal: The kitchen had no garbage disposal installed.
Refrigerator: Refrigerator was noted in the kitchen.
Age: Refrigerator appeared to be in midlife of its design lifespan
Refrigerator in use during inspection: Yes, refrigerator was working.
Range: A range was noted in the kitchen
Range type: Unit was an electric free standing range with oven.
Operated and found: The electric range functioned at the time of the inspection using normal operating controls.
Ventilation: Exhaust fan recirculates moist air within the kitchen
Number of GFCI outlets in Kitchen: Kitchen did not have any GFCI outlets installed, (see "Electrical" section)
Number of Regular outlets in kitchen: Four or more electrical receptacles were observered
18) Minor Defect - Kitchen Sink
The sink sprayer at the kitchen sink was inoperable or defective. It did not turn off when tested. It should be repaired/ replaced, and by a qualified plumber if necessary.
Photo 18-1 Kitchen sink sprayer did not turn off
19) Minor Defect - Plumbing Drains
1. Kitchen sink drain used a s-trap rather than a vented p-trap. Water seals (the water lying in the bottom of the u-shaped pipe) may be lost when discharges occur in the system, resulting in sewer gases entering the structure.
2. Tape was used on the kitchen sink drain. Tape is not an approved method of repairing drains. No leaks were noted however.
Recommend having a qualified plumber repair drains where necessary.
Photo 19-1 S-Trap noted under kitchen sink
Photo 19-2 Tape on kitchen drain
20) Improve / Upgrade - Range Hood
The range hood fan vented into the kitchen rather than outdoors. Ventilation may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified contractor make modifications as necessary as per standard building practices so the range hood fan vents outdoors.
Laundry located: The laundry was located in the basement
Washing Machine, age: Noted, midlife
Catch pan under washer: No catch pan or drain was observered
Operated: Washing machine was not operated during the inspection.
Dryer, age: Noted, midlife
Power: The 220-volt dryer electrical outlet was a 3 prong outlet, (see "Electrical" section)
Dryer Ventilation: The dryer vent terminated at the exterior
Operated: Dryer was not operated during the inspection.
Outlets: One non-GFCI outlet was found
21) Repair/Replace - Washing Machine: Drain Line
1. The clothes washer drain standpipe was missing. The manufacturers drain hose is not acceptable for use as a trap. Standard building practices require that the stand pipe be:
A minimum of 2 inches in diameter
At least 33 inches tall for a top-loading clothes washer
At least 24 inches tall for a front-loading clothes washer
2. The washing machine drain line was reduced in size from 2" to 1 1/2". Reducing the drain on a washer can often cause overflow problems. Especially with newer washers that have high flow rates.
Photo 21-1 Drain line for washing machine is reduced
Photo 21-2 Illustration of washing machine standpipe drain
22) Improve / Upgrade, Conducive conditions - Dryer Duct
A dryer heat diverter was installed on the dryer vent. This condition will result in excessively high humidity levels in the basement. Excessively high humidity can damage home materials or components and may encourage the growth of microbes such as mold. Recommend removing diverter.
Photo 22-1 Heat diverter on dryer duct
23) Improve / Upgrade - Washing Machine: Supply
The washing machine was connected to bare rubber hoses. As rubber ages, it loses it?s flexibility and under constant water pressure, these hoses are prone to leaks or even bursting. Recommend replacing hoses with no-burst hoses. No-burst hoses are encased in a woven metal sleeve that prevents weak spots in the rubber from developing into leaks. The hoses cost about $10 each at home centers, and installing them is as easy as connecting a garden hose.
Photo 23-1 Laundry area in basement
Photo 23-2 Rubber hoses for washing machine
Location: Bathroom was located on the first floor
Shower: Bathroom had a tub-shower combination
Tub: Bathtub was built in
Shower/Tub surround: Shower/tub surround was ceramic tile
Surround Condition: Surround was in good condition
Number of Sinks, Type: The bathroom had one vanity type sink installed
Sink (s) Condition: Bathroom sink(s) were in good condition
Toilet: Toilet was flushed to check for flow & leaks
Toilet Condition: Toilet was loose and needed to be secured
Leaks noted in bathroom?: No leaks were noted in the bathroom during the inspection
Floor: Bathroom floor was ceramic tile
Floor Condition: Floor was in good condition
Caulking: Caulking at the tub/shower appeared to be intact
Ventilation: Bathroom had an exhaust fan installed for ventilation
Outlets: One non GFCI protected outlet was observed and worked properly when tested, (see "Electrical" section)
24) Minor Defect, Conducive conditions - Toilets
Toilet not secure at floor. Condition typically is caused by loose bolts or nuts or missing floor seals/caulking/grouting; other causes or multiple causes are possible. Loose toilets can result in damage to water supply lines and drainage pipes (leaks, water damage, and mold), as well as damage to the bolts or toilet. Recommend plumbing professional repair toilet as necessary.
Photo 24-1 Bathroom
25) Minor Defect - Bathroom Sink
Sink stopper mechanism needs adjustment or repair. Stopper mechanisms should be installed where missing and/or repairs should be made so sink stoppers open and close easily.
Photo 25-1 Stopper on sink does not work
Chimney, Fireplace, Woodstove
Table of contents
Woodstove location & Type: A woodstove was installed in the living room
Condition of Woodstove: Visible areas of woodstove and connections appeared to be in good working condition
Chimney made of: The chimney was constructed of block
Chimney at 3 feet above roof: Yes, chimney extended 3 feet above roof
Spark arrester/rain cap: No spark arrester/rain cap was noted at the top of the chimney
Chimney condition: Excessive creosote noted in flue
26) Major Defect, Safety Issue - Woodstove/Oil Furnace
The woodstove and the oil furnace are on separate floors and share the same flue. This is improper for several reasons.
1. One of the dangers of using one flue is creosote build-up. If the woodstove builds up creosote and blocks the chimney flue then carbon monoxide fumes can back up into the home.
2. The combination of the wood creosote and oil exhaust will damage the interior of the chimney.
3. If both appliances are being used at the same time, the draft of one appliance may be insufficient allowing carbon monoxide fumes into the home.
Recommend discontinue using one appliance and having a qualified contractor install another flue/chimney so that each appliance has it's own.
Photo 26-1 Illustration of woodstove and oil furnace on same floor. Cannot use same flue if on separate floors.
27) Safety Issue, Repair/Replace - Chimney
A significant amount of creosote or burning by-products (ash, soot, etc.) was visible in the chimney. This is a potential fire hazard and a sign that chimney system maintenance has been deferred. The client should be aware that the type and quality of wood burned, and the moisture content of the wood, will affect the rate at which burning by-products accumulate in the chimney. When wood-burning devices are used regularly, they should be cleaned annually at a minimum. A qualified contractor should evaluate, clean, and repair if necessary.
Photo 27-1 Top of chimney is shown. Broken flue and creosote was observed
Photo 27-2 View of chimney flue looking up from cleanout
Photo 27-3 Large amounts of burn by products noted in chimney from cleanout
Photo 27-4 Interior of wood stove
28) Safety Issue, Minor Defect - Woodstove
The floor pad below the wood stove was covered with a rug. The rug may catch fire from hot ambers dropping from the wood stove. The floor pad is intended to protect flooring from hot embers and should not be covered. Standard building practices require that the floor pad:
  • Extend 18 inches or more in front of the loading door
  • Extend 12 inches or more beyond the sides and rear
  • Be a continuous, non-combustible surface
  • Not rest on carpet unless it is strong enough to resist bending or cracking
  • Not pose a trip hazard

It's recommended that the rug be removed.
Photo 28-1 Rug in front of wood stove
29) Not or Limited Inspection - Limitations
The following items were not included in this inspection: coal stoves, gas logs, chimney flues (except where visible). Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of drafting or sizing in fireplace and stove flues, nor determine if prefabricated or zero clearance fireplaces are installed in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications. The inspector does not perform any evaluations that require a pilot light to be lit.
General Interior
Table of contents
Ceilings: Ceilings were made of drywall.
Ceiling Style: Ceilings were mostly flat
Ceiling Condition: Ceilings were in good condition
Mostly walls appear to be made of: Walls were made of drywall
Wall Condition: Walls were in good condition.
Outlets: Generally outlets were 3 prong grounded type
Floor coverings are mostly: Floors were mostly hardwood
When bounced on: A normal amount of bounce was noted
Floor Level: Generally, floors look and feel level
Mostly the doors are the following types: Doors were of hollow core construction.
General door condition: Doors were generally in good condition
Windows observation: Windows were mostly double hung construction
Appear made of: Windows were made of wood construction
Insulated noted in: Most windows
Random Tested: Yes, functioned properly
Stairs: Sairs were noted to the basement
Stairs condition: Safety issue noted on basement stairs, (see "Basement" section)
30) Minor Defect - Doors
Bedroom door rubed against the wood floor damaging the floor. Recommend trimming the bottom of door to allow easy opening and closing.
Photo 30-1 Door rubs on floor
31) Not or Limited Inspection - Limitations
Areas hidden from view by finished walls, ceilings, fixtures, or stored items can not be judged and were not a part of this inspection. In most instances floor coverings prevent recognition of cracks or settlement. Where carpeting and other floor coverings are installed, the materials and conditions of the flooring underneath can not be determined.
Heating and Cooling Systems
Table of contents
Heating System Brand Name: BDP Company
Model number was: 361AAN036075
Serial number was: 3895V00351
Apparent age of unit: The home heating system appeared to be older, manufactured in 1995
Combustion Air Supply: Combustion air was supplied from the interior of the home.
Heating system type: Home heating included an oil-fired, mid-efficiency, forced-air furnace
Distribution system: Distrubution of conditioned air was supplied by metal ductwork
# of Zones: The system had one zone
Heat distribution: Heat was supplied to all liveable rooms
When thermostats were turned on, the system: System was on during inspection
Secondary heating system: Secondary heating system consisted of a woodstove (see CFW Section)
Flue pipes: Loose connection noted at chimney
Safety shutoff: Heating system electrical shutoff was located above the heating unit
AC unit brand name: The air-conditioner brand was Bryant
Model number was: 561CJ024-B
Serial number was: 1396E0657
Air conditioning type: The home's air conditioning system was a split system
Approximate age of system: Air conditioning system was older, manufactured in 1996
Distribution system: Sheet metal ducts
A/C Disconnect: The air-conditioner disconnect was located near the exterior AC unit
Status: Not operated due to temperature below 65 degrees. Operation could cause damage
32) Safety Issue, Minor Defect - Furnace Flue
The furnace flue vent connector was not sealed properly at the chimney. It was loose with gaps around the flue pipe.
The results of a loose or leaky vent connection at the chimney include inadequate chimney draft (unsafe heater operation) and leakage of potentially dangerous combustion gases into the building. Recommend a qualified contractor repair connection.
Photo 32-1 Loose flue/chimney connection, gaps noted
33) Improve / Upgrade - Heating/Cooling Ducts/ Pipes
All distribution ducts in the basement were uninsulated. A qualified person should install insulation in unconditioned spaces as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency.
Photo 33-1 Un insulated ducts in basement
Photo 33-2 Un insulated ducts in basement
34) Maintain / Service, Not or Limited Inspection - Cooling Equipment
The outdoor air temperature was below 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the inspection. Because of this, the inspector was unable to operate and fully evaluate the cooling system.
The estimated useful life for most cooling systems and heat pumps is 10 to 15 years. This system appears to be at this age and/or its useful lifespan and may need replacing or significant repairs at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
Photo 34-1 Exterior AC unit is shown
35) Maintain / Service - Heating Equipment
This unit was working properly at the time of the inpsection. Mechanical equipment tested for functional operation at the time of inspection only. Inspection does not determine balancing or sizing of the system. The inspection covers only the visible components of the heating system. Hidden problems may exist that are not documented in this report. Records of annual service are not available or apparent at time of Inspection for this furnace. Annual maintenance will ensure the system is safe and is functioning properly. Servicing can also uncover problems not discovered or that are beyond the scope of home inspection standards. Inspection standards do not require me to verify if appliances need replacing, just that they are functioning. The estimated manufacturer's serviceable for forced air furnaces is 15 to 20 years. This furnace appears to be at this age or older and repair / replacement needs should be anticipated and estimated.
Photo 35-1 Oi furnace in basement
Photo 35-2 Electrical shutoff for furnace
Domestic Water Heater
Table of contents
Location: The water heater was located in the basement
Brand: The water heater brand was Kenmore
Model number was: 153.321441
Serial number was: E07A165833
Type: Home was equipped with an electric 40 gallon water heater
Estimated age: The water heater appeared to in the middle of its design life, manufactured in, 2007
Safety relief valve: TPR valve was noted on water heater
Safety extension: TPR valve extension was noted
Drain discharge to:: TPR pipe discharged to the floor
Supply shut off valves: Gas and water shutoff valves were noted.
Water Temperature(degrees Fahrenheit): 124.7 F
36) Maintain / Service - Water heater Age
This unit was older than 5 years old and for better performance and a longer life this unit should be flushed out every other year because of sediment build up at bottom of unit. To flush a unit of sediment start by shutting off the water supply to the heater. Turn the temperature control to low and the on-off to "pilot". Connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom and run the hose outside or to a drain. Drain the tank down and then open the water supply to force the sediment out. Close the drain, refill the tank, and reset the controls to normal.
Photo 36-1 Electric water heater in basement
Photo 36-2 Temperature of water was 124.7 F
Plumbing/Fuel System
Table of contents
Water supply service: The home's water was supplied from a private well located on the property
Waste disposal system: The home was attached to a private onsite waste water treatment system
Main entry pipe material: The main water supply was an approved plastic type pipe
Location of main water shutoff: The main water supply shut-off was located in the basement
Private water supply equipment noted: Well head, pressure tank and treatment system were observered
Location of well head: A well head was observered in the back yard
Interior supply pipes: The visible home water distribution pipes were a combination of half-inch and three-quarter inch copper
Functional Flow: Tested, Minimal decrease in water flow noted
Waste System Pipes: The visible drain, waste and vent (DWV) pipes were copper
Main waste line cleanouts: One or more waste pipe clean-outs were noted
House Trap: A whole house plumbing trap was not observered during the inspection
Vent pipe observed on roof: Yes, plumbing vent pipes terminated above the roof
Sump pump: The home did not have a sump pump installed
Visible fuel storage systems: An oil tank was located in the basement of the home
37) Improve / Upgrade - Oil Supply Line
Copper oil supply lines were exposed and subject to damage. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified person should make improvements as necessary so oil supply lines are not subject to damage.
Photo 37-1 Oil line from tank to furnace is laying on floor
38) Maintain / Service - Septic Systems
Based on visible components or information provided to the inspector, this property appeared to have a private sewage disposal (septic) system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. Recommend the following:
  • Consult with the property owner about this system's maintenance and repair history
  • Review any documentation available for this system
  • Review inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
  • That a qualified specialist evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs if necessary
Recommend following these general rules when using this system:
  • Conserve water, using too much water or leaky faucets and toilets can overload your system and lead to more maintenance costs and possible failure.
  • Don't dump cooking oil or grease down the drain. Collect it in a can and dispose of it in the garbage.
  • Divert roof drains, basement sump drains and other rainwater or surface water away from your drainfield. Flooding your drainfield can shorten its life and cause potential malfunction of your septic system.
  • Don't use caustic drain openers for a clogged drain. Instead, use boiling water or a drain snake to open clogs.
  • Use moderation with commercial household cleaners and detergents. Baking soda or other mild cleaners often do the job as well and cheaper than common commercial brands.
  • Don't use your septic system like a garbage can. Do not put grease, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, tampons, condoms, paper towels, plastics, cat litter, latex paint, pesticides, or other hazardous chemicals down the rain.
  • Plant grass or other shallow-rooted plants over and near the septic system. Roots from trees or shrubs can clog and damage your drainfield.
  • Don't drive or park over any part of your septic system. This can compact the soil and crush your system?s components.
For more information visit:Septic Systems
39) - General Plumbing / Fuel Photos
Photo 39-1 Main water shutoff is noted
Photo 39-2 Well water pressure tank
Photo 39-3 Copper drain lines are shown
Photo 39-4 Iol tank in basement
Photo 39-5 Well located in back yard
Well Flow Test
Table of contents
Time test was started: 10:20 am
Time test was terminated: 11:25 am
Gallons Per Minute at start of test: 3 1/2 GPM
Gallons Per Minute at end of test: 3 1/2 GPM
40) Informational Comment - One Hour Well Flow Test
A well flow test was performed. The well produced 3 1/2 gallons of water for 1 hour. The well was functioning at the time of the inspection.
This measurement gives an estimate of the system's ability to deliver water to the home.
The outcome of this measurement is generally affected by the pressure in the cold water storage tank, the type and size of the pipes used to deliver the water to the faucets, the amount of piping and number of fittings used as well as the faucet construction itself.
Photo 40-1 Well flow test equipment
Water Quality Test
Table of contents
Location of Test: Kitchen cold water tap
Date and Time Collected: 10/22/2014, 12:00 pm
Testing Laboratory: St. Peter's Bender Laboratory 19 Warehouse Row Albany, NY 12205
Time Delivered to Laboratory: 1:30 pm
Type of Test Completed: Total Coliform Bacteria
Water Test Results: Test was Negative for Total Coliform
41) Informational Comment - Bacteria Informatio
Sources of Bacteria in Drinking Water

Human and animal wastes are a primary source of bacteria in water. These sources of bacterial contamination include runoff from feedlots, pastures, dog runs, and other land areas where animal wastes are deposited. Additional sources include seepage or discharge from septic tanks, sewage treatment facilities, and natural soil/plant bacteria. Bacteria from these sources can enter wells that are either open at the land surface, or do not have water-tight casings or caps.

Insects, rodents or animals entering the well are other sources of contamination. Old wells were dug by hand and lined (cased) with rocks or bricks. These wells usually have large openings and casings that often are not well-sealed. This makes it easy for insects, rodents, or animals to enter the well.

Another way bacteria can enter a water supply is through inundation or infiltration by flood waters or by surface runoff. Flood waters commonly contain high levels of bacteria. Small depressions filled with flood water provide an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. Whenever a well is inundated by flood waters or surface runoff, bacterial contamination is likely. Shallow wells and wells that do not have water-tight casings can be contaminated by bacteria infiltrating with the water through the soil near the well, especially in coarse-textured soils.

Older water systems, especially, dug wells, spring-fed systems and cistern-type systems are most vulnerable to bacterial contamination. Any system with casings or caps that are not water-tight are vulnerable. This is particularly true if the well is located so surface runoff might be able to enter the well. During the last five to 10 years, well and water distribution system construction has improved to the point where bacterial contamination is rare in newer wells.
St. Peters Bender Laboratory
Photo 41-1 Well Water test bottle (Total Coliform)
Electric Service
Table of contents
Electrical service type: Electrical service wires to the home were run overhead.
Overhead wires: Overhead service conductors appeared to be in good condition
Electrical Meter Location: The home's electric meter was located on the exterior of the home
Service voltage (volts): Service voltage to the home was 120-240
Meter amperage (amps): The meter's amperage rating is listed at 200 amps
Electric Meter Condition: The electric meter appeared to be in good condition at the time of the inspection
Location of Main Panel: The main electrical panel was located in the basement
Panel Manufacture: The panel brand was Square D
Electric Panel Rating: Unknown
Service Conductor Size: The aluminum service entrance conductors were 2/0
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main disconnect: Circuit breaker at top of main electrical panel
Main disconnect rating: The main electrical disconnect was rated at 150 amps
Breakers/ fuses: Circuit breakers in the main electrical service panel appeared to be in serviceable condition at the time of the inspection
Branch circuit wiring type: The visible branch circuit wiring was modern vinyl-insulated copper wire
Solid strand aluminum wiring: Yes,Branch wiring visible within the main electrical service panel contained aluminum wires
Electric Panel Bonding: The electrical components appeared to be properly bonded at the time of the inspection
Double tapped breakers: No
Double Lugged Neutrals: No
Room for additional circuit breakers: Yes, main electrical service panel had room for additional circuit breakers
Missing Circuit Breaker Covers: No
Grounding observed to:: The main electrical service appeared to be grounded to an exterior ground rod
Grounding connections are: Secure
42) Safety Issue, Repair/Replace - Electrical Outlet(s)
1. Open ground, three-pronged electric receptacles were found in two of the bedrooms. This is a safety issue due to the risk of shock and potentially damaging to any appliance plugged into an ungrounded outlet. A qualified electrician should make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing receptacles or correcting wiring circuits.
2. Electrical outlet was not secured in the basement. Outlet should be secured.
Photo 42-1 Open ground outlet noted in bedroom
Photo 42-2 Open ground outlet noted in bedroom
Photo 42-3 Loose electrical outlet in basement
43) Safety Issue, Specialist Evaluate - Aluminum Branch Wiring
This home had solid-strand branch circuit aluminum wiring installed. This type of aluminum wiring is a potential fire hazard. Problems due to expansion and contraction can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices such as switches and outlets, or at splices. Recommend consulting with one or more electrical contractors to determine the best course of action to correct this problem. For more information, visit: and/or and/or and/or
Photo 43-1 Aluminum wires noted in electrical panel
Photo 43-2 Aluminum wires noted in electrical panel
44) Safety Issue, Specialist Evaluate - Substandard Grounding/ Bonding
Observed three ground wires exiting the main electrical panel but I only found one wire connected to a ground rod. The grounding system may be substandard due to missing components. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should further evaluate to determine if proper grounding exists in this home.
Photo 44-1 Three ground wires noted exiting main panel
Photo 44-2 Exterior ground rod noted with one ground wire attached
45) Safety Issue, Minor Defect - Wires Miss-Identified
White conductors are only allowed to be used for grounded conductors (not 'hot' conductors), and, when used for other than grounded conductors (i.e., when used as 'hot' conductors) the white conductors are required to be re-identified by painting, taping or other approved means , and must be permanently re-identified with a color suitable for that use, i.e, "black" or "red" in most cases. This permanent re-identification is to be done at all terminations and at all areas visible and accessible, i.e., if you can see the white wire used as a 'hot' wire and you can access it, then that portion must be permanently re-identified to the appropriate color. Recommend an electrical contractor properly re-indentify the white conductors in question. This is a safety concern.
Photo 45-1 White wires not re identified
Photo 45-2 White wire not re identified
46) Safety Issue, Improve / Upgrade - Electrical Outlets
No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices (outlets or circuit breakers) were visible in the home. GFCI devices help prevent electric shocks in areas that may have water present. Although it was not required at the time of build it is highly recommended that you upgrade to current standards by having a qualified, licensed electrician install GFCI protection as an upgrade for outlets over counter tops and around sinks.
Photo 46-1 Non GFCI outlet in bathroom
Photo 46-2 Illustration of GFCI
47) Improve / Upgrade - Clothes Dryer
A three prong receptacle for a clothes dryer was installed. Most modern clothes dryers use both 120 and 240 volts (120 for timers and motors, and 240 for heating elements) and either require, or are more safely installed with, a four wire receptacle. With three conductor wiring, the ground wire rather than a neutral wire is used to carry the return current back for the 120 volt leg. The clothes dryer's metal frame may become energized if the neutral wire becomes loose at the receptacle or panel. While three wire clothes dryer circuits were allowed prior to 1996 and are commonly found, they are considered unsafe due the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician convert this to a four wire circuit. Note that this may require installing a new circuit wire from the panel to the clothes dryer location.
48) Improve / Upgrade - No Exterior Outlets
The home had no exterior electrical outlets at the time of the inspection. Concider having an electrical contractor install exterior GFCI outlets.
49) Not or Limited Inspection, Informational Comment - Type of Wiring
The determination of the type of branch circuit wiring used in this home was made by inspection of the electric panels only. Inspection of the wiring in or at the receptacles, switches, fixtures, junction boxes, walls, ceiling, floors, etc., is beyond the scope of a home inspection and were not inspected.
Photo 49-1 Main electrical panel. Main electrical shutoff is shown in blue
Basement: The basement was readily accessible for inspection
Basement: Full basement which was unfinished at the time of the inspection
Foundation walls: Most of the foundation walls were exposed to view
Interior Foundation Wall Material: The visible portions of the foundations walls consisted of block
Observed on interior wall: The interior foundation walls appeared in good condition at time of inspection
Ceiling framing: The ceiling framing in the basement was exposed to view
Sub Floor Material: Sub floor material was plywood
Beam material: The main support beam was constructed of built up wood
Pier or support post material: Support posts were constructed of steel
Support columns condition: Support posts appear in good condition
Basement Windows Condition: Good condition, non operable windows
Insulation material underneath floor above: No insulation was observered in the basement at the time of the inspection
General area dampness: Some signs were noted
Basement floor: Concrete
Floor drainage: None noted
Floor Condition: Good
50) Safety Issue, Minor Defect - Stairs
Gaps between balusters larger than 4 3/8 inches were found in the basement stair guardrails. This is a safety issue for small children. A qualified contractor should make modifications as necessary so gaps in guardrails do not exceed four inches. For example, installing additional balusters or railing components. Visit: , for more information.
51) Improve / Upgrade - No Insulation Installed
No insulation was installed under the floor above the unheated basement. Recommend that a qualified person install insulation for better energy efficiency and per standard building practices. Typically this is R-19 rated fiberglass batt with the attached facing installed against the warm (floor) side.
Photo 51-1 Basement is shown in photo. No insulation noted
Photo 51-2 Basement is shown
Photo 51-3 Basement is shown
Photo 51-4 No insulation noted in basement
Attic access: The attic was accessed through a hatch.
How evaluated: The Inspector evaluated the attic from the access hatch.
Roof system: The roof structure was built using conventional framing methods.
Inches apart: The rafters were spaced 16 inches apart.
Roof sheathing: The roof structure sheathing was plywood.
Moisture penetration: Rust on nails noted in the attic.
Attic floor system: No walkway was provided in the attic.
Attic Ventilation: A combination of ridge, soffit and gable vents provided ventilation in the attic
Attic Ventilation: Some soffit vents were blocked by thermal insulation.
Bathroom vent: Bathroom vent terminates to gable vent
Insulation material: The attic insulation was fiberglass batt
Insulation condition: Attic insulation thickness was less than six inches.
52) Minor Defect, Conducive conditions - Exhaust Fan Ducts
Bathroom exhaust fan ducts terminated at a gable vent rather than at a dedicated hood or cap. Gable vents are designed to allow cool air to be drawn into the attic, and to prevent excess moisture from accumulating in the attic. When such ducts are routed to terminate at gable vents, the moist exhaust air may flow back into the attic and the gable venting will be reduced. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices. For example, by installing approved hoods or caps at the roof surface or exterior wall(s), and permanently securing exhaust ducts to them.
Photo 52-1 Bathroom exhaust exits out gable vent
Photo 52-2 Illustration of bathroom vent through roof
53) Minor Defect, Conducive conditions - Soffit Vents
Soffit vents were blocked by insulation. This can reduce air flow through the roof structure or attic and result in reduced service life for the roof surface materials because of high temperatures. Moisture from condensation is also likely to accumulate in the roof structure and/or attic and can be a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary so air flows freely through all vents. For example, by moving or removing insulation and installing cardboard baffles.
Photo 53-1 Attic, soffit vents blocked
Photo 53-2 Attic, soffit vents blocked
54) Improve / Upgrade, Not or Limited Inspection - Attic Areas Inaccessible
I was not able to enter the attic. The attic hatch was located in a cloths closet that did not provide adequate clearances. Attic access hatch was too small to allow easy access. Such hatches should be at least 22 x 30 inches in size, and in safely accessed areas. Some attic areas were not observed because of this.Recommend that a qualified person modify attic access points per standard building practices.
Photo 54-1 Attic, photo taken from hatch
Photo 54-2 Attic, photo taken from hatch
Photo 54-3 Attic, photo taken from hatch
Photo 54-4 Attic, photo taken from hatch
Photo 54-5 Attic access
Photo 54-6 Illustration of attic hatch
55) Improve / Upgrade - Attic Insulation
Insulation in attic is substantially less than what's recommended for this area. Recommend having a qualified contractor install additional insulation as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency.
Photo 55-1 Attic, 3-4 inches of insulation observered
Health & Safety Concerns and Recommendations
Table of contents
Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI): No Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection of electrical outlets was provided in the home at the time of inspection, see "Electrical' section
AFCI protection: No Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection was installed to protect electrical circuits in bedrooms, (see "Electrical" section)
Smoke detectors: Were located in the hallway only.
Lead paint: The finish on the walls & ceilings were intact with no peeling paint observered
56) Improve / Upgrade - Too Few Smoke Detectors
An insufficient number of smoke alarms were installed. Smoke Detectors are noted when present but are NOT tested or inspected. Pushing the built-in test button does not ensure that the smoke sensor is functional. It only establishes that the electrical circuit and audible alarm are functional. It is recommended that all smoke detectors be replaced when new owners move in. Ionization technology responds first to fast, flaming fires while photoelectric technology responds faster to slow smoldering fires. Having both types would be ideal. When installing detectors it is recommended that they be placed at each level including the basement and in each bedroom and laundry room of the house. Placement should be in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Smoke detectors should be replaced at 10 year intervals or per manufacturer's suggestion. Batteries should be changed twice a year.
For more information on smoke detectors visit: Smoke alarm safety tips
57) Improve / Upgrade - Fire Extinguishers
Recommend placing fire extinguishers in the kitchen and laundry areas. The kitchen area extinguisher should be specially rated for kitchen fires.
Fire Extinguishers
58) Maintain / Service, Informational Comment - CO Detectors
Natural gas service was present at the house. Before spending the first night, ensure that proper carbon monoxide detectors are present. The detector should be mounted low toward the floor as carbon monoxide is heavier than air. Several C/O detectors are best. One near the heating system and hot water supply and one on each floor of the home.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors are widely available in stores and you should buy one as a back-up -- BUT NOT AS A REPLACEMENT for proper use and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. It is important for you to know that the technology of CO detectors is still developing, that there are several types on the market, and that they are not generally considered to be as reliable as the smoke detectors found in homes today. Some CO detectors have been laboratory-tested, and their performance varied. Some performed well, others failed to alarm even at very high CO levels, and still others alarmed even at very low levels that don?t pose any immediate health risk. And unlike a smoke detector, where you can easily confirm the cause of the alarm, CO is invisible and odorless, so it?s harder to tell if an alarm is false or a real emergency.
For more information visit:Carbon Momoxide-The Silent Killer
59) Maintain / Service - Suspect Material, Lead Paint
This home was built before 1978, when laws were enacted in the US preventing the use of lead paint in residential structures. Lead paint may be present, and is a known safety hazard, especially to children but also to adults. It may cause brain damage and retarded mental and physical development, among other things. The paint found in and around this structure appeared to be intact and most likely encapsulated by more recent layers of paint that's not lead-based. However, recommend following precautions as described in the following links to Consumer Products Safety Commission website articles regarding possible lead paint.

What You Should Know About Lead Based Paint in Your Home: Safety Alert - CPSC Document #5054

CPSC Warns About Hazards of "Do lt Yourself" Removal of Lead Based Paint: Safety Alert - CPSC Document #5055
60) Maintain / Service - Dryer Vents
Recommend cleaning dryer vents annually. Clogged dryer vents will reduce the efficiency of the dryer and are known to cause house fires. Remove vent from rear of the dryer and vacuum the internal dryer duct. Next, vacuum the inside of the vent, disassemble joints on longer vent pipes and clean as much as possible.
Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer?s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper.
Exhaust ducts should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct. (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
Exhaust duct terminations should be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer?s instructions. For more information on dryer safety issues, see Over Heated Dryer Vents
61) Maintain / Service - Suspect Material, Lead Paint
This home was built before 1978, when laws were enacted in the US preventing the use of lead paint in residential structures. Lead paint may be present, and is a known safety hazard, especially to children but also to adults. It may cause brain damage and retarded mental and physical development, among other things. The paint found in and around this structure appeared to be intact and most likely encapsulated by more recent layers of paint that's not lead-based. However, recommend following precautions as described in the following links to Consumer Products Safety Commission website articles regarding possible lead paint.

What You Should Know About Lead Based Paint in Your Home: Safety Alert - CPSC Document #5054

CPSC Warns About Hazards of "Do lt Yourself" Removal of Lead Based Paint: Safety Alert - CPSC Document #5055
62) Informational Comment - Light Rodent Evidence
Evidence of "light to moderate" rodent infestation was found in one or more areas. The Center for Disease Control (CDC) defines this as less than 20 feces per square foot. Rodent infestation may be a safety hazard due to the risk of contracting Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS). HPS is a rare (only 20-50 cases per year in the United states) but deadly (40% mortality rate) disease transmitted by infected rodents through urine, droppings, or saliva. Humans can contract the disease when they breathe in aerosolized virus. For example, from sweeping up rodent droppings.
Recommend following guidelines in the CDC's Clean Up, Trap Up, Seal Up article for eradicating rodents, cleaning up their waste and nesting materials, and preventing future infestations. While Hantavirus is believed to survive less than one week in droppings and urine, specific precautions should be taken during clean up. The client(s) may wish to consult with a qualified, licensed pest control operator for eliminating the infestation. A qualified licensed abatement contractor or industrial hygienist could bcontacted for clean up. If the infestation was minimal, clean up of rodent waste and nesting materials in non-living spaces (crawl spaces and attics) may not be necessary, or may be performed for aesthetic reasons only (odor and appearance). For more information visit:
Wood Destroying Insect and Rot
Table of contents
Infestation evidence noted: None
Wood damaged from insects: None noted
Conditions are conducive to WDI: Yes
Crackes in Foundation: Yes
63) Informational Comment - Limitations
Due to the cryptic nature of termites it may not be possible to determine conclusively whether or not termites are present simply based on visible evidence of termite infestation. Destructive testing or damage to the premises may be necessary to detect infestations.
Radon Test
Table of contents
Device Name: Canister monitor
Device Serial Number(s): #2323630, #2323626
Device Type(s): Charcoal Canister(s)
Number of Devices Used: Two side by side canisters were used for testing
Foundation Type: The home had a full basement
Foundation Material: The home's foundation was block construction
Basement Living area: Yes, laundry & work area in basement
Below Floor Ventilation: No
Test Area: Test area is occasionally occupied (unfinished space)
Test Location: The test was conducted in the basement of the home
Test Area Closed Prior to Test: Closed house conditions could not be verified pryer to testing
Weather Conditions: Periods of rain were noted during the test period
Date / Time of Placement: 10/20/2014, 12:00 pm
Date and time of removal: 10/25/2014, 12:00 pm
Radon Level: Average of the two canisters was 0.9 pCi/l
64) Informational Comment - Radon Test
The property was tested using short term protocols for the presence of radon using the above listed device. The test and analysis have been performed to comply with EPA radon test protocols. The average radon concentration at the time the sampling was conducted and the specific location within the building is listed above. Be aware that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. No tampering was observed during the radon test.
For more information visit;
A Citizen's Guide to Radon
Radon in New York
Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon
Photo 64-1 Radon gas test canisters placed in basement
65) Informational Comment - Level Below 4.0 pCi/L
The test has concluded that the average level of radon detected in the property was below the US Environmental Protection Agency ( EPA) action level of 4.0 pCi/l. The building is below the Action Level set by the EPA and poses no Radon Health Risk at this time. However, it must be noted that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. The EPA suggests getting a property tested for radon every two years, or if any major changes above/or additions have been done to the property. EPA recommends that any areas of a property suitable for living that measure above the action level should be mitigated to a level below 4.0 pCi/l. Any level below the action level does not require mitigation.
For more information visit:
Citizens guide to radon
Radon in New york

Virtually all real estate has problems, regardless of age or usage. It is not my purpose to compile a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list of items that need repair, but to document the general condition of the residence and to note any visible major defects. This is not a comprehensive document about the structure and should not be relied upon as such. Cosmetic considerations (paint, wall covering, carpeting, window coverings, etc.) and minor flaws are not within the scope of the inspection. Although some minor and cosmetic flaws might be noted in this report as a courtesy to you, a list of the minor and cosmetic flaws noted here should not be considered a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list and should not be relied upon as such. Routine maintenance and safety items are not within the scope of this inspection unless they otherwise constitute visible major defects as defined in the Home Inspection Agreement. This report does not include all maintenance items and should not be relied upon for such items.

All conditions are reported as they existed at the time of the inspection. The information contained in this report may be unreliable beyond the date of the inspection due to changing conditions

Your inspection is like a snapshot of the property's condition on a specific date and time. Those conditions will change, so you need to keep inspecting your property during the time you own it. Verify that the air conditioning condensate water is draining properly to the exterior after operation on a hot day. Verify that the dryer vent is exhausting properly. Verify that the gutters and downspouts are performing during a hard rain. Verify that no water is ponding on the property after a hard rain. Verify that no dimming or flickering of lights occurs. Verify that no repeated resetting of any circuit breakers is necessary. Verify that the quantity of the hot water supply is adequate. Verify that the performance of the HVAC systems is adequate. Verify that any thermostat controlled electric attic fans are operating. Verify that no leaking is present in the attic area during a hard rain. And inspect any of the other concerns that were mentioned in this report.

Home Inspectors, Licensed Specialists, and Experts;

Inspectors are generalists, are not acting as experts in any craft or trade, and are conducting what is essentially a visual inspection. Some state and local laws, therefore, require that inspectors defer to qualified and licensed experts (e.g., plumber, electrician, et al.) in certain instances. If inspectors recommend consulting specialists or experts, it is possible that they will discover additional problems that a home inspector generalist cannot. Any listed items in this report concerning areas reserved by New York law to such licensed experts should not be construed as a detailed, comprehensive, and/or exhaustive list of problems or areas of concern.
This report is CONFIDENTIAL, and is for the use and benefit of the client only. It is not intended to be for the benefit of or to be relied upon by any other buyer, lender, title insurance company, or other third party. DO NOT DUPLICATE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Duplication without permission is a violation of federal copyright law.
Terms and conditions crucial to interpretation of the report are contained in a separate Pre-Inspection Agreement. Do not use this report without consulting the Pre-Inspection Agreement.
David O'Keefe