Electrical service type: Electrical service wires to the home were run underground.
Electrical Meter Location: The home's electric meter was located on the exterior of the home
Service voltage (volts): Service voltage to the home was 120-240
Meter amperage (amps): The meter's amperage rating is listed at 200 amps
Electric Meter Condition: The electric meter appeared to be in good condition at the time of the inspection
Service Conductor Size: The aluminum service entrance conductors were 2/0 copper
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main disconnect: The main electrical disconnect was located in a rated metal enclosure mounted in combination with the electric meter
Main disconnect rating: The main electrical disconnect was rated at 100 amps
Location of remote disturbution panel (sub): Utility closet
Electric Panel Brand: Challenger
Breakers/ fuses: Circuit breakers in the electrical service panel appeared to be in serviceable condition at the time of the inspection
Branch circuit wiring type: The visible branch circuit wiring was modern vinyl-insulated copper wire
Solid strand aluminum wiring: No visible aluminum branch wires were found in the electrical service panel
Electric Panel Bonding: The electrical components appeared to be properly bonded at the time of the inspection
Double tapped breakers: No
Double Lugged Neutrals: Yes
Netural Bus Bar Isolated from Sub Panel: Yes
Room for additional circuit breakers: Yes, electrical service panel had room for additional circuit breakers
Missing Circuit Breaker Covers: No
Ground and Neutral wires Separate in Sub Panel: Yes
Grounding observed to: The main electrical service grounding electrode was not visible at the time of the inspection
Smoke detector present above electric panel(s): No
34) Safety Issue, Specialist Evaluate
Neutral Wires Double Tapped
Multiple grounded (neutral) wires are connected under a single screw on the grounding or neutral bus bar at the main panel. Although this may have been an acceptable practice at the time the panel was installed, current standards require each “grounded conductor”(neutral/white) wire to have it’s very own screw on the bus bar, no other “grounded conductor” or grounding conductor” (bare copper wire) should be under the screw with the “grounded conductor”. (Unless the manufacturer states otherwise, bus bars are only designed for one current carrying conductor per terminating screw.)" Therefore, I recommend that an electrical contractor be contracted to separate the neutrals, and terminate them in a manner consistent with the most current safety standards.And if need be, add additional terminal bars to accommodate the number of conductors.http://home.comcast.net/~arundelhomeinspection/DoubledNeutralsGrounds.pdf
35) Safety Issue, Specialist Evaluate
The panel is recessed to much into the wall and is not flush with the cover. The gap between the cover and the box can allow sparks to escape into the wall cavity. Recommend repairing so not gap exists.
Photo 35-1 Panel is not flush with wall
Photo 35-2 Panel is not flush with was
36) Safety Issue, Specialist Evaluate
Cover plate(s) are missing from one or more electric boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety issue due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be installed/replaced where necessary.
Photo 36-1 Cover plate is missing from outlet in kitchen
Photo 36-2 Cover plate is missing from outlet in laundry room
37) Safety Issue, Minor Defect
Non GFCI Outlets
No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices (outlets or circuit breakers) are visible for the laundry. GFCI devices help prevent electric shocks in areas that may have water present. Recommend having a qualified, licensed electrician install GFCI protection as an upgrade for outlets over counter tops and around sinks.
38) Safety Issue, Maintain / Service -
Remote Distribution (sub) Panel Grounding
We were unable to determine if the sub panel at the residence is properly grounded, therefore, proper grounding of the system should be verified or established by a qualified electrician.
39) Not or Limited Inspection
Type of Wiring
The determination of the type of branch circuit wiring used in this home was made by inspection of the electric panels only. Inspection of the wiring in or at the receptacles, switches, fixtures, junction boxes, walls, ceiling, floors, etc., is beyond the scope of a home inspection and were not inspected.
Photo 39-1 Distribution panel in utility room
Photo 39-2 Interior of electric panel
Photo 39-3 Bonding screw is shown in panel
Photo 39-4 Electric meter for condo unit was not marked
The house appears to be built on a slab located at: About grade level.
On the exterior perimeter of the slab where visible: Cracks were not noted.
Interior floor covering is: Wall to wall carpet, Hardwood
40) Informational Comment -
Many slabs are found to contain cracks when the carpet and padding are removed, including some that contour the edge and can be quite wide. They typically result from shrinkage and usually have little structural significance. However, there is no absolute standard for evaluating cracks, and those that are less than 1/4" and which exhibit no significant vertical or horizontal displacement are generally not regarded as being significant. Although they typically do result from common shrinkage, they can also be caused by a deficient mixture of concrete, deterioration through time, seismic activity, adverse soil conditions, and poor drainage, and if they are not sealed they can allow moisture to enter a residence, and particularly if the residence is surcharged by a hill or even a slope, or if downspouts discharge adjacent to the slab. However, in the absence of any major defects, we may not recommend that you consult with a foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert, and we would be happy to refer one.
Health & Safety Concerns and Recommendations
Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI): Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection of electrical outlets was provided in the home at the time of inspection.
Location of GFCIs: GFCI protection was provided in the kitchen, bathroom (s) and exterior outlets.
GFCI tested: GFCI outlets were tested using both the testing plug and plug in light tester.
AFCI protection: No Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection was installed to protect electrical circuits in bedrooms.
Smoke detectors: Were located in the hallway only.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Carbon Monoxide detector locations appeared to be satisfactory at the time of the inspection.
41) Minor Defect
One or more bedroom circuits are not protected by an Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI). AFCIs are newly developed electrical devices designed to protect against fires caused by arcing faults in the home’s wiring. AFCIs are intended to mitigate the effects of arc faults by de-energizing the circuit when an arc fault is detected. Arc faults can be created by damaged, deteriorated, or worn electrical plugs, cords, and/or branch circuit conductors. AFCIs are required in new construction under current building standards which have been adopted in most jurisdictions across the country(not required in NYS). Older homes with aging and deteriorating wiring systems can especially benefit from the added protection of AFCIs. Two types of AFCIs are available — branch/feeder and combination. Both types are intended to be installed at the origin of a branch circuit or feeder, such as a panel board or load center. The branch/feeder AFCI detects parallel arcing faults, which can occur line-to-line, line-to-neutral and line-to-ground.
The combination AFCI takes the technology one step further and detects not only parallel arcing, but also series arcing, which is useful in identifying lower-level arcing in both branch circuits and power supply cords. A series arc can occur when the conductor in series with the load is unintentionally broken. You may wish to consult with a qualified electrical contractor concerning options and costs for updating bedroom branch circuits to AFCI protection for safety reasons.
For more information on AFCIs visit;Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs)
How do I test to determine if my AFCI circuit breaker is functioning properly?
To test an AFCI, make sure there is power to the load center, or panel board. Turn the AFCI handle to the "ON" position. Press the blue test button. Pressing the test button simulates an arc to the AFCI sensing electronics, causing the breaker to trip. The AFCI breaker is functioning properly when the circuit is interrupted and the handle moves to the tripped center position. To reset, turn the AFCI off and turn it on again. If the AFCI does not trip when the test button is pressed, it should be replaced. Refer to a qualified electrician for servicing. You should test your AFCI breaker monthly to insure protection against electrical arcing faults.
42) Improve / Upgrade, Informational Comment
Smoke Detectors are noted when present but are NOT
tested or inspected. Pushing the built-in test button does not ensure that the smoke sensor is functional. It only establishes that the electrical circuit and audible alarm are functional. It is recommended that all smoke detectors be replaced when new owners move in. Ionization technology responds first to fast, flaming fires while photoelectric technology responds faster to slow smoldering fires. Having both types would be ideal. When installing detectors it is recommended that they be placed at each level and in each bedroom of the house. Placement should be in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Smoke detectors should be replaced at 10 year intervals or per manufacturer's suggestion. Batteries should be changed twice a year.
For more information on smoke detectors visit [ Smoke alarm safety tips
43) Improve / Upgrade
Natural gas service is present at the house. Before spending the first night, ensure that proper carbon monoxide detectors are present. The detector should be mounted low toward the floor as carbon monoxide is heavier than air. Several C/O detectors are best. One near the heating system and hot water supply and one on each floor of the home.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors are widely available in stores and you should buy one as a back-up -- BUT NOT AS A REPLACEMENT for proper use and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. It is important for you to know that the technology of CO detectors is still developing, that there are several types on the market, and that they are not generally considered to be as reliable as the smoke detectors found in homes today. Some CO detectors have been laboratory-tested, and their performance varied. Some performed well, others failed to alarm even at very high CO levels, and still others alarmed even at very low levels that don’t pose any immediate health risk. And unlike a smoke detector, where you can easily confirm the cause of the alarm, CO is invisible and odorless, so it’s harder to tell if an alarm is false or a real emergency.
For more information visit:Carbon Momoxide-The Silent Killer
44) Improve / Upgrade
Recommend cleaning dryer vents annually. Clogged dryer vents will reduce the efficiency of the dryer and are known to cause house fires. Remove vent from rear of the dryer and vacuum the internal dryer duct. Next, vacuum the inside of the vent, disassemble joints on longer vent pipes and clean as much as possible.
Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper.
Exhaust ducts should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct. (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
Exhaust duct terminations should be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s instructions. For more information on dryer safety issues, see Over Heated Dryer VentsDryerVents
45) Improve / Upgrade
Recommend placing fire extinguishers in the kitchen and laundry areas. The kitchen area extinguisher should be specially rated for kitchen fires.Fire Extinguishers
Virtually all real estate has problems, regardless of age or usage. It is not my purpose to compile a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list of items that need repair, but to document the general condition of the residence and to note any visible major defects. This is not a comprehensive document about the structure and should not be relied upon as such. Cosmetic considerations (paint, wall covering, carpeting, window coverings, etc.) and minor flaws are not within the scope of the inspection. Although some minor and cosmetic flaws might be noted in this report as a courtesy to you, a list of the minor and cosmetic flaws noted here should not be considered a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list and should not be relied upon as such. Routine maintenance and safety items are not within the scope of this inspection unless they otherwise constitute visible major defects as defined in the Home Inspection Agreement. This report does not include all maintenance items and should not be relied upon for such items.
All conditions are reported as they existed at the time of the inspection. The information contained in this report may be unreliable beyond the date of the inspection due to changing conditions
Your inspection is like a â€œsnapshotâ€ of the propertyâ€™s condition on a specific date and time. Those conditions will change, so you need to keep inspecting your property during the time you own it. Verify that the air conditioning condensate water is draining properly to the exterior after operation on a hot day. Verify that the dryer vent is exhausting properly. Verify that the gutters and downspouts are performing during a hard rain. Verify that no water is ponding on the property after a hard rain. Verify that no dimming or flickering of lights occurs. Verify that no repeated resetting of any circuit breakers is necessary. Verify that the quantity of the hot water supply is adequate. Verify that the performance of the HVAC systems is adequate. Verify that any thermostat controlled electric attic fans are operating. Verify that no leaking is present in the attic area during a hard rain. And inspect any of the other concerns that were mentioned in this report.
Home Inspectors, Licensed Specialists, and Experts;
Inspectors are generalists, are not acting as experts in any craft or trade, and are conducting what is essentially a visual inspection. Some state and local laws, therefore, require that inspectors defer to qualified and licensed experts (e.g., plumber, electrician, et al.) in certain instances. If inspectors recommend consulting specialists or experts, it is possible that they will discover additional problems that a home inspector generalist cannot. Any listed items in this report concerning areas reserved by New York law to such licensed experts should not be construed as a detailed, comprehensive, and/or exhaustive list of problems or areas of concern.
This report is CONFIDENTIAL, and is for the use and benefit of the client only. It is not intended to be for the benefit of or to be relied upon by any other buyer, lender, title insurance company, or other third party. DO NOT DUPLICATE WITHOUT PERMISSION. Duplication without permission is a violation of federal copyright law.
Terms and conditions crucial to interpretation of the report are contained in a separate Pre-Inspection Agreement. Do not use this report without consulting the Pre-Inspection Agreement.