Grounds
4) 

Driveway is near its expected life time. Cracks, holes, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration resulting in trip hazards were found in the driveway, For safety reasons, recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and replace.
5) 

Cracks, holes, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration resulting in trip hazards were found in the backyard patio. For safety reasons, recommend that a qualified contractor repair or replace as necessary to eliminate trip hazards.
6) 
The soil or grading sloped down towards building perimeters in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around building foundations or underneath buildings. It can be a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from buildings with a slope of at least 1 inch per horizontal foot for at least 6 feet out from buildings.
7) 
Cracks, holes, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration were found in sidewalks and/or patios. Recommend that qualified contractor repair as necessary.
8) 
One or more large tree stumps were close to the building exterior. Wood-destroying insects such as carpenter ants nest in such stumps and are more likely to infest the building as a result. Recommend that large tree stumps within a few feet of the building be removed by a qualified tree service contractor.
Exterior and Foundation
11) 
Some sections of siding and/or trim were split. Recommend that a qualified person repair, replace or install siding or trim as necessary.
12) 
Flashing at one or more locations was missing. Leaks can occur as a result. Recommend that a qualified person repair, replace or install flashing as necessary, and per standard building practices.
Roof left of the house and above the left garage.
13) 
One or more exhaust duct end caps were . Their purpose is to prevent unconditioned air from entering the building, and keep out birds, rodents and bugs. Blocked ducts can cause fan motors and/or clothes dryers to overheat and can pose a fire hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace caps as necessary.
14) 
Soil was in contact with or less than 6 inches from siding or trim. Regardless of what material is used for siding, it should not be in contact with the soil. If made of wood, siding or trim will eventually rot. For other materials, ground or surface water can infiltrate siding or trim and cause damage to the wall structure. Wood-destroying insects are likely to infest and damage the wall structure. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend grading or removing soil as necessary to maintain a 6-inch clearance. Note that damage from fungal rot and/or insects may be found when soil is removed, and repairs may be necessary.
15) 
One or more holes or gaps were found in siding or trim. Vermin, insects or water may enter the structure. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
16) 
Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines was in contact with or close to the building exterior. Vegetation can serve as a pathway for wood-destroying insects and can retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend pruning, moving or removing vegetation as necessary to maintain at least 6 inches of space between it and the building exterior. A 1-foot clearance is better.
17) 
Trees were in contact with or were close to the building at one or more locations. Damage to the building can occur, especially during high winds, or may have already occurred (see other comments in this report). Recommend that a qualified tree service contractor or certified arborist remove trees as necessary to prevent damage to the building exterior.
18) 
Caulk was deteriorated and/or substandard in some areas. For example, . Recommend that a qualified person renew or install caulk as necessary. Where gaps are wider than 1/4 inch, an appropriate material other than caulk should be used. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?CAULK
Roof
20) 

Flashings at the base of one or more chimneys were loose and/or missing counter flashing. Leaks can occur as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair as necessary.
21) 
Extensions such as splash blocks or drain pipes for one or more downspouts were clogged and/or substandard. Water can accumulate around the building foundation or inside crawl spaces or basements as a result. Recommend that a qualified person install, replace or repair extensions as necessary so rainwater drains away from the structure.
22) 
One or more were loose. Rainwater can come in contact with the building exterior or accumulate around the building foundation as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
Some areas of the gutters appeared to be pulling a way from the facia. Recommend a qualified contractor to evaluate and repair.
23) 
Significant amounts of debris have accumulated in one or more gutters or downspouts. Gutters can overflow and cause water to come in contact with the building exterior, or water can accumulate around the foundation. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend cleaning gutters and downspouts now and as necessary in the future.
24) 
Significant amounts of debris such as leaves, needles, seeds, etc. have accumulated on the roof surface. Water may not flow easily off the roof, and can enter gaps in the roof surface. Leaks can occur as a result. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend cleaning debris from the roof surface now and as necessary in the future.
Garage or Carport
27) 

The door between the garage and the house did not appear to be fire resistant, or the inspector was unable to verify that it was via a label. This is a potential safety hazard. House to garage doors, to prevent fire and fumes from spreading from the garage into interior living space, should be constructed of fire-resistant materials. Doors, generally considered to be suitable for the purpose, are solid core wood, steel, honeycomb steel or a door that has been factory labeled as fire rated. Recommend that a qualified contractor replace or repair the door and, at that time, make any other corrections that might be required to provide suitable fire resistance between the garage and the dwelling per standard building practices. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?AGFR
28) 

The door between the garage and the house has been modified with a pet door, and is no longer fire-resistant. This is a potential safety hazard. House to garage doors, to prevent fire and fumes from spreading from the garage into interior living space, should be constructed of fire-resistant materials. Doors, generally considered to be suitable for the purpose, are solid core wood, steel, honeycomb steel or a door that has been factory labeled as fire rated. Recommend that a qualified contractor replace or repair the door and, at that time, make any other corrections that might be required to provide suitable fire resistance between the garage and the dwelling per standard building practices. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?AGFR
29) 

One or more gaps and/or pet doors were found in the attached garage walls or ceilings. Current standard building practices call for wooden-framed ceilings and walls that divide the house and garage to provide limited fire-resistance rating to prevent the spread of fire from the garage to the house. Recommend that a qualified person repair per standard building practices. For example, by patching openings or holes, firestopping holes or gaps with fire-resistant caulking, and/or installing fire-resistant wall covering (e.g. Type X drywall). For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?AGFR
Electric
33) 


One or more electric receptacles at the kitchen, bathroom(s), full bath and/or garage had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, or the inspector was unable to determine if GFCI protection was present. If not GFCI-protected, receptacles in wet areas pose a shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and install GFCI protection if necessary and per standard building practices. General guidelines for GFCI-protected receptacles include the following locations:
- Outdoors (since 1973)
- Bathrooms (since 1975)
- Garages (since 1978)
- Kitchens (since 1987)
- Crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990)
- Wet bar sinks (since 1993)
- Laundry and utility sinks (since 2005)
For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?GFCI
34) 

Panel(s) #A had inadequate working space. This is a safety hazard when opening or working in panels. Electric panels should have the following clearances:
- An open area 30 inches wide by 3 feet deep in front of the panel
- 6 feet 6 inches of headroom in front of the panel
- The wall below the panel is clear to the floor
- The center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker not more than 6 feet 7 inches above the floor or working platform
Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or make modifications per standard building practices. If panels must be opened for repairs, then a qualified electrician should perform repairs.
35) 

Extension cords were being used as permanent wiring at one or more locations. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring is a potential fire and shock hazard, and indicates that wiring is inadequate and needs updating. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, overheating and sparks that could start a fire. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair per standard building practices and eliminate extension cords for permanently installed equipment.
36) 

One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes in which they were installed were loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors can be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation can be damaged. This is a shock and fire hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair as necessary.
37) 

One or more modern, 3-slot electric receptacles were found with an open ground. This is a shock hazard when appliances that require a ground are used with these receptacles. Examples of such appliances include computers and related hardware, refrigerators, freezers, portable air conditioners, clothes washers, aquarium pumps, and electrically operated gardening tools. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair as necessary so all receptacles are grounded per standard building practices.
38) 

One or more sections of outdoor wiring were exposed and . This is a potential shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair per standard building practices. For example, by installing conduit, re-routing wires or replacing wiring.
39) 

Smoke alarms were missing from one or more bedrooms, from one or more hallways leading to bedrooms and/or on one or more levels. Smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning alarm exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, in each bedroom and on each level. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRM
40) 

Aluminum wiring found. Suggest that a license electrician evaluate and replace. Amateur repair with electric tape is also a safety issue.
41) 

One or more slots where circuit breakers are normally installed were open in panel(s) #A. Energized equipment was exposed and is a shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified person install closure covers where missing.
42) 

One or more knockouts were missing from panel(s) #A. Holes in panels are a potential fire hazard if a malfunction ever occurs inside the panel. Rodents can also enter panels through holes. Recommend that a qualified person install knockout covers where missing and per standard building practices.
43) 

Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may have been installed more than 10 years ago. According to
National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRMLS
44) 

Carbon monoxide alarms were missing from one or more sleeping areas and/or on one or more levels. This is a potential safety hazard. Some states and/or municipalities require CO alarms to be installed in the vicinity of each sleeping area, on each level and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Recommend installing additional carbon monoxide alarms per these standards. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?COALRM
45) 

Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the mid 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring.
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if such incompatible components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware of this safety hazard, both for existing fixtures and when planning to upgrade with newer fixtures. Consult with a qualified electrician for repairs as necessary.
46) 
One or more globes or covers for light fixtures were missing or damaged. Recommend replacing as necessary to avoid exposed bulbs. With closet lighting or where flammable stored objects are near light fixtures, missing or broken covers can be a fire hazard.
47) 
The service drop wires were in contact with trees or vegetation. This can result in damage to wiring insulation or broken wires during high winds. Recommend pruning trees or vegetation as necessary. The utility company may prune trees at no charge.
Fireplaces, Stoves, Chimneys and Flues
60) 

No spark screen or rain cap was installed at one or more chimney flue terminations. Spark screens reduce the chance of embers exiting the flue and causing fires. They also prevent wildlife (e.g. birds, rodents, raccoons) from entering flues. Rain caps prevent water from entering flues, mixing with combustion deposits and creating caustic chemicals which can corrode flues. They also prevent damage to masonry from freeze-thaw cycles and prevent metal components (e.g. dampers, metal firebox liners) from rusting. Recommend that a qualified person install rain caps with spark screens per standard building practices where missing.
62) 
The brick chimney was moderately deteriorated. For example, loose or missing mortar, cracked, broken, loose or spalled bricks. Loose bricks can pose a safety hazard, and deteriorated masonry can allow water to infiltrate the chimney structure and cause further damage. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary.
63) 
One or more masonry chimney crowns were worn and/or cracked. Crowns are meant to keep water off of the chimney structure and prevent damage from freeze-thaw cycles. Chimney crowns are commonly constructed by mounding concrete or mortar on the top chimney surface, however this is substandard. A properly constructed chimney crown should:
- Be constructed using either precast concrete slabs, cast-in-place steel reinforced concrete, solid stone, or metal
- Be sloped down from the flue a minimum of 3 inches of fall per foot of run
- Extend a minimum of 2 1/2 inches beyond the face of the chimney on all sides
- Not directly contact the flue liner (if installed), with the gap filled with flexible caulk
- Have flashing installed between the bottom of the crown and the top of the brick chimney
Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or replace crowns as necessary, and per standard building practices.
64) 
Mortar at the brick chimney was deteriorated (e.g. loose, missing, cracked). As a result, water is likely to infiltrate the chimney structure and cause further damage. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary. For example, by repointing the mortar.
Bathrooms, Laundry and Sinks
69) 
Water damage was found in shelving or cabinet components below one or more sinks at location(s) #C. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary after any plumbing leaks have been repaired. If moisture is present then concealed areas should be dried thoroughly.
70) 
One or more handles controlling water flow to the shower at location(s) #B and C were inoperable. Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace handles as necessary.
Recommend a licensed plumber to evaluate and repair.
71) 
Gaps, no caulk, or substandard caulking were found between countertops and backsplashes at location(s) #A, B and C. Water can penetrate these areas and cause damage. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary. For example, by installing or replacing caulk.
72) 
Tile, stone and/or grout in the flooring at location(s) #B was deteriorated (e.g. loose or cracked tiles, missing grout) or substandard. Water can damage the sub-floor as a result. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary.
73) 
One or more sink drains were leaking at location(s) #B. A qualified person should repair as necessary.
74) 
Caulk around the base of the toilet at location(s) # was missing, substandard and/or deteriorated. Modern standards require caulk to be installed around the entire toilet base where it meets the floor for sanitary reasons. Without it, soiled water can soak into flooring and sub-floor materials if the toilet overflows. Condensation from the toilet can also soak into the flooring. Recommend that a qualified person caulk around toilet bases per standard building practices.
75) 
Caulk was missing around the base of the bathtub spout, or there was a gap behind it, at location(s) #. Water may enter the wall structure behind the bathtub. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary to eliminate the gap. For example, by installing or replacing caulk if the gap is small enough. For larger gaps, a shorter spout nipple or an escutcheon plate can be installed.
76) 
Gaps, no caulk, or substandard caulking were found between the bathtub and the floor and/or walls at location(s) #B. Water may penetrate these areas and cause damage. Recommend that a qualified person re-caulk or install caulking as necessary.
77) 
The shower head at location(s) #C was dripping when the shower was turned off. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
Interior, Doors and Windows
78) 

Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were wobbly. This is a safety hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
79) 

Condensation or staining was visible between multi-pane glass in many windows. This usually indicates that the seal between the panes of glass has failed or that the desiccant material that absorbs moisture is saturated. As a result, the view through the window may be obscured, the window's U-value will be reduced, and accumulated condensation may leak into the wall structure below. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair windows as necessary. Usually, this means replacing the glass in window frames.
Be aware that evidence of failed seals or desiccant may be more or less visible depending on the temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc. Windows or glass-paneled doors other than those that the inspector identified may also have failed seals and need glass replaced. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to identify every window with failed seals or desiccant.
80) 

Wood flooring in one or more areas was buckling. This may indicate that the floor has been exposed to water or that the flooring was not allowed to equalize in moisture content before being installed. Consult with the property owner and/or have a qualified specialist evaluate. It's likely that affected areas of the wood flooring will need to be refinished to obtain a flat surface. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?WDFLRPRB
81) 
Crank handles at windows were loose and/or broken. Recommend that a qualified person replace handles or make repairs as necessary.
Dining room window difficult to close. Handle appears to be stripped. Recommend replacement by a qualified contractor.
82) 
One or more window screens were damaged or deteriorated. These window(s) may not provide ventilation during months when insects are active. Recommend replacing window screens as necessary.
83) 
One or more walls . Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
84) 
The lock mechanisms on one or more sliding glass doors were difficult to operate. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
85) 
Minor cracks, nail pops and/or blemishes were found in walls and/or ceilings in one or more areas. Cracks and nail pops are common, are often caused by lumber shrinkage or minor settlement, and can be more or less noticeable depending on changes in humidity. They did not appear to be a structural concern, but the client may wish to repair these for aesthetic reasons. For recurring cracks, consider using an elastic crack covering product:
https://www.reporthost.com/?ECC