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PO Box 6564 
Ocean Isle Beach, NC 28469

 

Summary

Client(s):  John & Jane Doe
Property address:  123 Any Street
Sunset Beach, NC 28468
Inspection date:  Thursday, March 3, 2016

This report published on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 3:07:08 PM EDT


Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
SafetyPoses a safety concern and/or a serious risk of injury
Major DefectCorrection likely involves a significant expense
Repair/ReplaceRecommend repairing or replacing
Repair/MaintainRecommend repair and/or maintenance
Minor DefectCorrection likely involves only a minor expense
MaintainRecommend ongoing maintenance
EvaluateRecommend evaluation by a specialist
MonitorRecommend monitoring in the future
CommentFor your information
Conducive conditionsConditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)


Exterior
1 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

2 Repair/Maintain, Conducive conditions - Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.

Decks
3 Repair/Maintain, Comment -

4 Maintain, Conducive conditions - Recommend cleaning deck(s) and treating with a preservative claiming to waterproof, block ultraviolet light, and stop mildew. Consumer Reports recommends these products:

5 Comment - An "inspection" of a deck/porch and attached/connecting stairway(s) by a licensed home inspector is an observation of the readily visible areas/components of the deck/stairway(s) and is not certification or affirmation of a deck's structural integrity or correct construction methodologies. Proper construction components [fasteners{bolts, screws, etc.}, adhesives, attachment, footings, flashing(s), cantilevers, etc.] in many cases can't be ascertained without removal or some dismantling. The inspector's assessment is limited to visual observations. Decking, railing(s), stairways, handrails, joists, columns/pilings, and girders are inspected solely for condition - such as visible wood rot, paint/stain failure, loose decking, and excessive gaps [decking & railings only] - nothing more.

Most all municipalities require building permits to construct a deck/porch [attached or freestanding]. There are also stages of construction where the municipality will require inspections by a municipal employee [appropriate building/code inspector] to ensure proper construction methodologies are used while it is being built. The client(s) may wish to inquire with the local municipality to determine whether permits were provided/granted - and to confirm all construction stages were inspected/approved. Copies of such permits and staged-inspections can usually be made available. The client(s) may also contract with a Structural Engineer to evaluate the deck and its structural attached and components - should there be a concern about the deck's/stairway(s) structural integrity.

Decks/porches and all components [surface deck material, joists, girders, stairway(s), posts/pilings, stairs, and railings] should be monitored on an annual basis by the owner(s). Sunshine, inclement weather and aging can cause decks/stairway(s) to deteriorate. Without regular maintenance and monitoring, decks/stairway(s) once secure and safe can become unsafe. Regular maintenance and monitoring will enhance the longevity of the deck/stairway(s) and ensure they're safe for use. If the client(s) can't or won't provide regular maintenance and monitoring, it is recommended the client(s) contract with a qualified professional.

Roof
6 Repair/Maintain, Comment -

Attic
7 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

8 Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Comment, Conducive conditions - Ventilation appears to be substandard in the attic. Inadequate attic ventilation may result in high attic and roof surface temperatures, reduce the life of the roof covering materials and increase cooling costs, corrode/rust HVAC components prematurely and corrode/rust metal items [wiring staples, electrical boxes, etc.]. High levels of moisture are also likely, and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms in certain geographic areas. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of attic space. Vents should be evenly distributed between soffits, ridges and at corners to promote air circulation - or roof-type ventilation systems be implemented. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.

9 Repair/Replace - Pull-down stairs are installed for the attic access. No insulation is installed above the stairs and no weatherstripping is installed around the hatch perimeter. To reduce air leakage, recommend installing weatherstripping and an insulated hatch cover. An example of one can be seen at http://www.batticdoor.com/

Interior air leaking into the attic results in heating and cooling losses, increased energy costs, and a possible increase in moisture levels in the attic due condensation forming on the underside of the roof sheathing during cold weather.

Electric Service
10 Safety, Repair/Replace, Comment -

Water Heaters(2)
13 Safety, Minor Defect - The hot water temperature when tested at the kitchen sink, and 1st floor bathroom, was greater than 120°. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The client may with to consider adjusting the thermostat so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120°. For more information on scalding dangers, visit http://www.tap-water-burn.com/

Here are the "State's" reference to HW Heaters:

The following is a reprint of GS 66-27.1A, “Water heater thermostat settings:”

(a) The thermostat of any new residential water heater offered for sale or lease for use in a single-family or multifamily dwelling in the State shall be preset by the
manufacturer or installer no higher than approximately 120°F (49°C). A water heater reservoir temperature may be set higher if it is supplying space heaters that
require higher temperatures. For purposes of this section, a water heater shall mean the primary source of hot water for any single-family or multifamily residential dwelling including, but not limited to any solar or other hot water heating systems.

(b) Nothing in this section shall prohibit the occupant of a single-family or multiunit residential dwelling with an individual water heater from resetting or having reset
the thermostat on the water heater. Any such resetting shall relieve the manufacturer or installer of the water heater and, in the case of a residential dwelling that is leased or rented, also the unit’s owner, from liability for
damages attributed to the resetting.

(c) A warning tag or sticker shall be placed on or near the operating thermostat control of any residential water heater. This tag or sticker shall state that the thermostat settings above the preset temperature may cause severe burns. This tag or sticker may carry such other appropriate warnings as may be agreed upon by manufacturers, installers and other interested parties.

Here's a recommended Occupational Safety Hazard Administration link - related to HW heater temperature settings and bacteria concerns - that may be of interest:

https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/hotwater.html

14 Major Defect, Comment - The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years. These water heaters are at this age and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.

15 Maintain, Comment -

16 Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

During periods of regular extended absence [3 weeks or greater], it is advisable to shut off the power [usually a breaker panel designated for the HW heater in the interior electrical panel - electric tank units only]. This will reduce energy costs - as well as minimize wear on the heating elements within the tank itself. If regular absence is only for a week, or up to three weeks - it is recommended that power to the HW heater NOT be turned off. Short term electrical power disconnects will decrease the useful life of the heating elements within the tank - causing them to fail prematurely.

This is because heating water within the that has completely cooled - which takes on average only a few days for this to occur - based upon tank gallonage, requires the heating elements to remain on for an extended period when power is restored to reheat all the water in a tank to the settings on the tanks thermostats. Allowing the HW heater to remain on during periods of extended absence up to three weeks, will allow the elements to simply "maintain" the desired temperature settings - just recycling on infrequently to maintain water temperatures. This will extend element life.

Heating and Cooling
18 Safety, Repair/Replace - Excessive amounts of debris, particulates and/or dust are visible in one or more sections of supply and/or return air ducts. This can be a health hazard, especially for those with allergies or respiratory problems. The Environmental Protection Association (EPA) recommends considering having ducts professionally cleaned when "ducts are clogged with excessive amounts of dust and debris and/or particles are actually released into the home from your supply registers". At a minimum, the visible debris should be thoroughly cleaned. Recommend having a qualified contractor clean the ducts. For more information on duct cleaning in relation to indoor air quality, visit: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html

19 Repair/Replace, Maintain, Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

When taking possession of any new home, it is always advisable to replace any and all return air filters within the house - whether the return air grills are on the walls, ceilings, or direct [on HVAC Air Handler]. Inexpensive fiberglass air filters are not the best choice.

When replacing in the future, click on link below to see air filters with appropriate MERV ratings. MERV ratings are a methodology to determine how much air is filtered. The higher the number the more particulates are captured. It is recommended though, that MERV ratings no higher than 12 be installed because any rating higher than 12 puts excess strain on the blower motor of the air handler unit - and could cause it to wear out prematurely. MERV rating between 8 and 12 is recommended.Inexpensive fiberglass air filter is clean. When replacing in the future, click on link below to see air filters with appropriate MERV ratings. MERV ratings are a methodology to determine how much air is filtered. The higher the number the more particulates are captured. It is recommended though, that MERV ratings no higher than 12 be installed because any rating higher than 12 puts excess strain on the blower motor of the air handler unit - and could cause it to wear out prematurely. MERV rating between 8 and 12 is recommended.

See http://www.mechreps.com/PDF/Merv_Rating_Chart.pdf
for a ratings chart. Also look at http://www.filters4life.com/What-is-MERV-rating-s/4961.htm

20 Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Comment -

21 Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - I was unable to determine the last service date of this system(s) and it is possible it was one or more years ago. When HVAC systems are serviced, a common practice of the servicing HVAC professional is to notate the main/interior unit with either a service tag, or some marking on the unit itself as to when it was serviced. No such notices were found/viewed during my inspection.

The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when the HVAC was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system(s), and make repairs if necessary to ensure the system(s) is/are functioning optimally. It is also recommended that this be performed prior to taking possession of the home so the client(s) have a thorough and complete evaluation/assessment of the HVAC system(s) prior to purchase.

In the future, this servicing should be performed annually, or twice annually - when the HVAC transitions from COOl to HEAT [Fall] or HEAT to COOL [Spring].

22 Comment - Heat pump systems, when tested for functionality, can only be tested based upon their seasonal setting [thermostat] configured by the owner(s) of the property at the time of the inspection. The common settings consist of either "Cool" or "Heat." Accordingly, testing for functionality of "Heat" cannot be ascertained when set to "Cool," and testing for functionality of "Cool" cannot be ascertained when set/configured to "Heat" when thermostats have been programmed by the owner(s) as we do not re-configure thermostat programming in performance of testing HVAC functionality at the time of inspection. There are numerous brands/models of thermostats, and without a specific knowledge/understanding of a thermostat's operation - improper operation or damage may result. In addition, it could also damage the existing HVAC system(s).

23 Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

During periods of extended absence, it is strongly recommended that the HVAC system(s) when set in the "COOL" mode never be raised above 80° on any of the thermostats within the structure. This will allow regular and necessary air circulation to remove humidity from within the structure. Low levels of humidity prevent the potential buildup of dust and dander in the ductwork - which could allow mold to potentially cultivate in the ductwork, and could cause respiratory issues.

Also, during periods of extended absence during the periods when the HVAC system(s) are set in the "HEAT" mode, the temperature should never be lowered below 60°. The furniture and materials within the structure absorb the heat from the HVAC system(s), which help prevent the HVAC system(s) from cycling on and off more than necessary to maintain a specific heat setting level - thus potentially shortening their useful life. This is called radiant heating or cooling - depending on the season. Setting the thermostat below 60° will cool down all the furniture and materials in the house, and when raising the temperature upon returning from an extended absence, it takes much longer to achieve the elevated thermostat setting because all of the materials and furniture within the house have to again absorb the heat to radiated it back.

So basically, regardless of your thermostat(s) mode setting, "HEAT" or "COOL", the range of thermostat temperature settings during any period of an extended absence should never be outside of the 60˚ to 80° range. Never though, should a thermostat be set to the OFF position - unless there is a specific requirement to do so [repair, maintenance, etc.]. If there is a need to shut off the HVAC system, the breaker in the electrical panel for the HVAC is most commonly utilized.

Plumbing and Laundry
24 Safety, Repair/Replace - The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. It is recommended that this duct be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.nfpa.org/public-education/by-topic/safety-in-the-home/dryers-and-washing-machines/dryer-safety-tips

If the client is unable or unwilling to replace the coil duct, it is recommended that the vent/duct be cleaned of lint on a regular basis to reduce the potential for fire. This should be done commensurate with the amount of use.

25 Repair/Replace, Maintain, Comment -

26 Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

During periods of extended absence [two days or more], and the house will not be occupied - it is strongly recommended that the main "whole house" water shut-off valve [if readily accessible within the structure] be utilized to shut off all water to the structure. This will prevent any water leaks, or burst water lines from within the home that may occur during periods of extended absence - from causing extensive water damage within the structure. Just remember to turn the water back on upon your return.

Fireplace
28 Comment -

Kitchen
29 Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

Should there be a garbage disposal within the house, during an extended absence from the premises [several weeks or more], it is quite common for garbage disposal "chopping blades" to seize/bind within the unit. This is due to a lack of regular use - with no water flow to maintain moisture within the unit which acts as a lubricant. You'll know this has happened when all you hear is a hum or buzz from the unit when activated. Should this occur, the switch needs to be immediately turned off to prevent motor failure/burn-up. Most disposals include a tool to un-seize the blades - but this can be difficult and potentially dangerous.

Therefore, prior to a period of extended absence, it is recommended that a capful of olive/vegetable oil be poured into the garbage disposal - then turned on for a second or two. This will lubricate the blade(s) - minimizing the risk of blade(s) seizing/binding, while being an insignificant amount to cause any drain issues.

30 Safety, Repair/Replace - The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/remodeling/article/0,1797,HGTV_3659_2017492,00.html

31 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

32 Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Conducive conditions - One or more sink drains have an active leak. For example, at pipe fittings and/or junctions between pipe and sink. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.

33 Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The dishwasher drain line is not configured with a "high loop." A high loop is created by routing the drain line up to the bottom surface of the counter top above, and securely fastening it to that surface. It is meant to prevent water from siphoning out of the dishwasher, and to prevent water from the sink drain or food disposal from entering the dishwasher. Some dishwashers have a built-in high loop where one is not required to be configured in the drain line. The clients should try to determine if a high loop is required for this brand and model of dishwasher (review installation instructions, etc.). If one is required, or it cannot be determined if one is not required, then a qualified contractor should install a high loop as per standard building practices.

34 Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Tile, stone and/or grout countertops are damaged and/or deteriorated in one or more areas. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing broken tiles and deteriorated grout, and resealing grout.

35 Repair/Replace - Hardware such as hinges, latches or pulls are loose and/or missing on one or more cabinets. Repairs should be made and/or hardware should be replaced as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.

36 Minor Defect - The light in range hood [microwave] is inoperable. Recommend replacing light bulb(s) or having repairs made by a qualified contractor as necessary.

37 Comment - Just an FYI. Dishwasher doors should never be latched closed when they are not in operation. Doing so compresses the seal and prematurely wears/flattens the seal - requiring replacement. When not in use, a dishwasher door can be up - but it should not be snapped or latched closed.

38 Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

Just an FYI. Dishwasher doors should never be latched closed when they are not in operation. Doing so compresses the seal and prematurely wears/flattens the seal - requiring replacement. When not in use, a dishwasher door can be up - but it should not be snapped or latched closed.

Bathrooms
39 Safety, Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

Multi-Bathroom Reminder. If you have a home that has multiple bathrooms and one - or several - are not used on a regular basis, there are maintenance items that need to be addressed.

A lack of use may allow the water within the traps of the sinks(s) and baths/showers(s) to dry to a level that could allow sewer gases to escape up the drain - not good. Traps are utilized in plumbing to prevent sewer gases from escaping back into the living quarters. A lack of water in a trap could allow dangerous gases into the structure. Therefore, it is important that every month or so water in the sink(s) and tub(s)/shower(s) infrequently used - be turned on for a few seconds to maintain a trap filled with water.

40 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

41 Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Conducive conditions - Tile and/or grout in one or more showers is damaged and/or deteriorated. For example, deteriorated or missing grout, cracked, missing or loose tiles, etc. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair tile and/or grout as necessary.

42 Comment - In many instances during an inspection - the vanity area under sinks contain various items of personal belongings [towels, toiletries, hair dryers, cleaning materials, etc.] which restrict full evaluation of these this area. Accordingly, such areas can not be reported as to condition.

Bedrooms
43 Safety, Repair/Replace - Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit this article: NFPA urges replacing home smoke alarms after 10 years.

44 Safety, Maintain - The back-up batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html

45 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

46 Repair/Replace - One or more windows that were built to open, will not open, or open only minimally due to their being painted shut, damaged and/or deteriorated in some way. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary so windows open fully, and open and close easily.

47 Maintain - Carpeting in one or more rooms is soiled and/or stained. Recommend having carpeting professionally cleaned as necessary.

48 Monitor - Stains were found in one or more ceiling areas. However, no elevated levels of moisture were found. The stain(s) may be due to past roof and/or plumbing leaks. Recommend asking the property owner(s) about this, and monitoring the stained area(s) in the future, especially after heavy or prolonged rain. If elevated moisture is found in the future, a qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

Interior Rooms
49 Safety, Repair/Replace - Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit this article: NFPA urges replacing home smoke alarms after 10 years.

50 Safety, Maintain - The back-up batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html

51 Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -

52 Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Seals between double-pane glass in one or more windows appear to have failed based on condensation or stains between the panes of glass. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace glass where necessary.

The client(s) should be aware that evidence of broken seals may be more or less visible from one day to the next depending on the temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc. Windows or glass doors other than those that the inspector identified may also have failed seals and need glass replaced too.

53 Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Flooring in one or more areas is worn, damaged and/or cupping. Recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate and refinish flooring as necessary, or if possible.

54 Repair/Replace - One or more windows that were built to open, will not open, or open only minimally due to their being painted shut, damaged and/or deteriorated in some way. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary so windows open fully, and open and close easily.

55 Repair/Replace - The weatherstrip around one or more exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.

56 Maintain - Carpeting in one or more rooms is soiled and/or stained. Recommend having carpeting professionally cleaned as necessary.

Contact "Trade-Specific/Qualified" Professional
57 Comment - There may be references made in this report to consult/contract with a qualified/licensed "trade-specific" professional [qualified professional, contractor, plumber, electrician, HVAC, etc.] to address items that the inspector believes needs further evaluation or repair/replacement. If so, this should be undertaken prior to the purchase of this property to provide the Client(s) with a thorough understanding and/or assessment of the stated issues/concerns raised by the inspector.

In addition, when a "trade-specific" professional is contracted, the Client(s) should have that qualified professional inspect/evaluate ALL items and components within the structure/premises specific to that professional's trade - as they have the specific experience, license, knowledge, tools, and testing equipment. For example, if an electrician/qualified professional is recommended to be contracted for issues related, to say, faulty GFCI's - 2 prong receptacles - open ground, loose receptacle(s), etc., that qualified professional should inspect and evaluate ALL electrical components within the structure/premises, such as other receptacles/switches, electrical panel, main/sub panels, etc., in addition to addressing report-specific issue(s). If the report recommends an HVAC professional for a possible HVAC condenser unit issue, all components of the HVAC system [air handler(s), ductwork, plenums, registers, thermostat(s) etc.] should be fully evaluated/inspected.

Should the Client(s) not contract with "trade-specific" professional(s) as may be stated within this report that should be done/undertaken, and also as may be referenced above, the Client(s) shall have no cause of action, for any reason, against Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC, its inspector(s), agents or employees as Client(s) have assumed all the risk for all conditions and issues stated/referenced in this report by failing to contract with a "trade-specific" professional(s) prior to purchase for further evaluation.

SUMMARY
58 Comment - THIS SUMMARY PAGE IS NOT THE ENTIRE REPORT. THE COMPLETE REPORT MAY INCLUDE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION OF INTEREST OR CONCERN TO YOU. IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PROMPTLY READ THE COMPLETE REPORT. FOR INFORMATION REGARDING THE NEGOTIABILITY OF ANY ITEM IN THIS REPORT UNDER THE REAL ESTATE PURCHASE CONTRACT, CONTACT YOUR NORTH CAROLINA REAL ESTATE AGENT OR AN ATTORNEY.

The overall condition of this house is mostly very good. The structure appears to be well built and in good/sound condition. There are some concerns and numerous issues. All though, can be very easily remedied.

Some issues that require immediate attention are:

* The HVAC air handler in the attic is extremely rusted - with evidence of substantial water issues on the unit itself, as well as the surrounding wood support surfaces. Accordingly, an HVAC professional needs to be contracted with to evaluate and make repairs/replacements as necessary - and prior to purchase.

* All HVAC ductwork needs to be cleaned and sanitized

* Windows with seal failure need replacement

* Severe leak under kitchen sink drain [right side] needs top be repaired by a qualified professional

* Exterior white aluminum trim in numerous areas needs replacement

* Air filters need replacement

* Jet/whirlpool tub in master bath needs evaluation - with repairs or replacement made as necessary by a qualified professional

* Master shower needs to have failed grout removed, then prepped and new grout applied/sealed

* Numerous windows need evaluation as to why they do not open - with repairs made as needed

* Windowsills with water damage on 1st floor SE corner bedroom need to be repaired, prepped and repainted

* Defective blinds need replacement [numerous] - both window and slider

* Carpeting on stairway and numerous bedrooms needs professional cleaning

* Weatherstripping on doors with issues [see report specifics] need replacement

* Ground level storage room door [under stairs] needs to be repaired/stripped, prepped and repainted to eliminate further rusting

* Exterior electrical service panel needs replacement

* Loose main water supply line [exterior/rear] needs to be completely insulated and re-secured to pier/post

* Living room storm door to front deck [SE corner] needs evaluation as to why it is screwed closed - and repairs/replacement made as needed

* Flooring under dining room table needs to be re-surfaced/stained & sealed if possible [worn]

* Cabinet hardware is needed on doors over refrigerator

* Recommend anti-tip bracket be installed on kitchen range

* Insulation needs to added to the attic-side of the pull-down stairs

* Microwave oven-top light bulb needs replacement

* Prepping and re-grouting of kitchen sink countertop where it meets backsplash is warranted

* Slider screen doors need adjustment/cleaning/lubrication to function as intended. If irreparable, they need to be replaced

* HVAC return air grill on 1st floor needs to be cleared of al rust and repainted

* Loose stairwell light fixture needs to be re-secured

Please refer to inspection report for complete findings and other information. Any and all references to issues related to HVAC, plumbing, electrical, roofing, contractor, etc. - should be addressed and undertaken by a qualified, licensed professional in that specific trade.

Click on the link below for an in-depth home maintenance guide, month by month, provided by USAA insurance company. This is a great guide to assist in keeping your home up-to-date.

https://www.usaa.com/inet/pages/advice-home-monthlymaintenanceguide?wa_ref=home_renting_month_guide&SearchRanking=8&SearchLinkPhrase=monthly%20maintenance

IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE SELLER(S), OR THE SELLER'S AGENT TO ENSURE THE PREMISES ARE MADE "READY" FOR INSPECTION. THIS COULD INCLUDE, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ENSURING ALL UTILITIES ARE ON, HW HEATER IS ON & ACCESSIBLE, WATER IS TURNED ON, WELL PUMP [if applicable] CAN BE EASILY ACCESSED, ALL FIXTURE SHUT-OFFS ARE ON, ALL STORAGE CLOSETS/SHEDS ARE UNLOCKED, ACCESS TO ATTIC HATCH IS CLEARED [all seller's personal items are removed - including clothing, furniture, stored items, etc.], ACCESS TO CRAWLSPACE [if applicable] IS READILY ACCESSIBLE [access hatch/door/panel is not blocked or locked], ACCESS TO DECKS/PORCHES FROM INTERIOR ROOMS IS NOT RESTRICTED [hurricane shutters installed/utilized, separate lock w/o key made available, furniture, etc.], AND IF OCCUPIED - THAT PETS/ANIMALS ARE SECURED FOR SAFE INGRESS/EGRESS. IF INSPECTOR IS UNABLE TO ACCESS ITEMS/AREAS, AND IS REQUESTED TO RE-INSPECT AT A LATER DATE, AN ADDITIONAL INSPECTION FEE IS APPLICABLE. CONTACT YOUR INSPECTOR FOR APPLICABLE FEE. IN ADDITION - IF SELLER(S), CLIENT(S), REALTOR(S), OR OTHER PERSONS ARE PRESENT AT THE PREMISES DURING INSPECTION - INSPECTOR(S) COULD POSSIBLY BE DISTRACTED OR THE INSPECTOR(S) STANDARD INSPECTION ROUTINE COULD BE DISRUPTED. THIS COULD INADVERTENTLY CAUSE AN INSPECTION OVERSIGHT. IN ANY SUCH OCCURRENCE, THE INSPECTOR(S) WILL NOT BE DEEMED NEGLIGENT OR BE HELD RESPONSIBLE.

Garage
59 Maintain - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:

It is recommended that the garage door rollers, as well as the roller tracks, be lubricated on an annual basis - with lubrication specific to these areas [available in local hardware retailers]. This will assist in noise reduction and minimize any potential binding/stress when the door is operated - thus reducing stress on the garage door opener's motor. This can enhance a garage door opener's useful life.