This report published on Wednesday, February 12, 2020 3:02:23 PM EST
Thank you for using Allied Home Inspections LLC for your inspection needs. I appreciate your business.
The following written report is prepared for the sole, confidential and exclusive use of the client(s) named above. It is designed to highlight systems and components observed on the day of the inspection that are significantly deficient or are at the end of their service lives. The report is intended as a general guide to help you evaluate the home. Read your entire Home Inspection Report before purchasing the property, paying close attention to all items noted on the report and to any exclusions and limitations listed. Any items noted that require further evaluation, any items not accessible or able to be located during the inspection or any areas noted as visually limited or inaccessible should be investigated or evaluated before you purchase the home. I do not give estimates for repair work - the only valid estimate for any work to be done should be in written form and submitted by a licensed and qualified contractor who is actually going to perform the work. You should obtain written estimates from licensed and qualified contractors for any repairs needed prior to the expiration of the inspection contingency period, hidden damage may exist. I recommend that any needed repairs always be made by a licensed, qualified contractor.
Your Home Inspection Report represents my good-faith opinions on the subjects listed within on the day of the inspection, and an earnest effort was made on your behalf to discover all visible defects - but no guarantee or warranty is either expressed or implied. Hidden or concealed defects are not included in this report. This report is not an insurance policy. Please be sure to read the entire report thoroughly and call promptly with any questions or concerns. This report shall supersede any written or verbal communication and comments made prior to providing the written report.
Best Wishes,
Tom Schlotter President Allied Home Inspections, LLC
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
Safety
Poses a risk of injury or death. Have the appropriate contractor evaluate and correct the defect at once.
Repair / Replace
Item or component broken or not functioning as intended, or is in need of immediate attention to prevent further damage / deterioration.. Need further inspection by a specialist to determine if repair is possible or replacement is needed.
Upgrade / Repair / Replace
Recommend improvement, upgrading, repairing, or replacing.
End of Life
System or component at or near end of service life. Recommend budgeting for replacement now. Monitor for any deterioration and replace as needed.
Maintain
Recommend maintenance / repair, or will need ongoing maintenance / repair.
Evaluate
Recommend evaluation by a specialist before purchasing the home. Client to assess information and determine personal level of concern. Make any repairs or replacements as suggested or needed.
Monitor
Possible defect - check this at least monthly for any change or deterioration in condition. Have appropriate contractor repair or replace as needed.
Comment
For your information
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.Contact your inspector If there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at https://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Present during the inspection: Buyer(s), Realtor(s), Heating technician, Wood destroying insect inspector, Septic contractor, Home inspector
Was building occupied at the time of inspection: Yes
Past weather: Some rain
Weather conditions at start of inspection: Clear
Overnight temperature prior to inspection (approximate): In the 40's
Approximate temperature at start of inspection: In the 50's
Ground condition: Damp
Main entrance to home faces: West
Real estate listing on internet and/or disclosure documents state build date or age of the home as: 1952
Square footage, as stated by Realtor, buyer, or real estate listing (not confirmed by home inspector): 3500
Type of building, as reported by Realtor and/or client: Single family
Foundation type: Basement
Building style: Colonial
General construction material: Wood
1) Modifications / additions to this property may have been made. Consult with the property owner about this. Recommend you contact town hall to make sure all appropriate permits are on file.
If substantial work was performed without permits this knowledge must be disclosed when the building is sold in the future. This can adversely affect future sales. Also, the local municipality could require costly alterations to bring the building into legal compliance or even require that the additions or modifications be removed.
Grading on the right side of the home: Flat, Away from the home
Grading at the rear of the home: Flat
Drainage on lot appears to be: Fair, some water drains away and some will drain toward the structure. Possibility of water penetration to the home exists. Correct the grading as needed.
Driveway material: Asphalt
Trees, shrubs and plantings need to be cut back or pruned from structure: Shrubs growing too close to home need to be cut back
Foundation materials: Poured in place concrete
Amount of foundation wall exposed and able to be inspected: Some of the foundation had at least several inches exposed
Siding / wall covering: Vinyl / plastic
Trim materials (includes eaves, soffits, fascias, window and door trim): Vinyl / plastic, Wood
Storm doors noted?: No, add storm doors as needed
Front stoop or porch made of: Brick
Sidewalk and walkway material: Paving stones
Retaining walls: None
Fences made of: PVC / Plastic, metal
Deck is made of: None noted
Patio made of: Concrete
Window wells made of: Metal
Manufacture date of propane tank: 1998
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have these areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Plants or shrubs block areas of the foundation / siding from view, Areas of the foundation were not visible to the inspector
Exterior dryer vent appears dirty, possible fire hazard - needs to be cleaned for safety before use.
Photo 2-1 Photo 2-2
3) Gate at pool should be self-closing with a secure latch. Recommend correction for safety. Gates need to swing and open away from pool area. Go to http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/pool.pdf for more info. Recommend pool contractor evaluate pool and grounds for safety.
Right side gate drooping, does not latch. Needs repair.
4) Noted cracks and deterioration of the driveway, repair as needed by driveway contractor.
Photo 4-1
5) The soil or grading appears to be pitched toward the house or is level in one or more locations. This may lead to water in the basement, crawlspace, and/or foundation areas. Soil should always be pitched AWAY from house to prevent water penetration. Monitor any areas of the basement where the soil is level or pitched against house for possible water penetration. Optimally slope should fall away from all sides of the foundation at a minimum rate of 1/2 inch per foot, extending at least 10 feet away from the building. Make sure gutters are clean and working properly, extensions should be in place on downspouts so water drains away from the house foundation. Have landscape contractor change the pitch at areas so water flows away from the structure as needed.
6) Siding or trim at exterior goes all the way down to the ground in areas, should be corrected. The house foundation should be exposed in all areas so as not to provide shelter or a pathway indoors for insects. It is impossible to do an inspection for termite tunnels in these areas. If the siding or trim is made of wood it can rot where it contacts the ground.
Photo 6-1
7) Noted basement windows and / or bulkhead door hatch below grade or covered with dirt / mulch / leaves. Possibility of insect infestation here, along with damage to the window / door. Recommend regrading so window / door is not in the earth, repair any damage as needed. Contact pest control contractor for insect evaluation.
Recommend covering openings at window wells, installing a cover will keep the water out and help keep basement / crawl space dry. Will also help with safety, a cover keeps animals and people from falling in and possibly getting hurt.
Photo 7-1 Photo 7-2
8) Vegetation (trees, shrubs and/or vines) are too close to or are in contact with building exterior. Recommend pruning or removing vegetation as necessary so there's at least a one foot gap between all vegetation and the building exterior. This gap should exist to allow exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and to eliminate pathways to the structure for wood destroying insects. If present tree limbs should be pruned so that they do not overhang or touch the house. Falling limbs will damage the roof while falling leaves clog the gutters and may cause water to fall close to the foundation and seep into the basement area.
Photo 8-1 Photo 8-2
Photo 8-3 Photo 8-4
9) Siding warped or buckled in areas, needs repair or replacement.
Mold / mildew / dirt noted on exterior siding that needs cleaning.
Holes and / or cracks were noted in the house siding. Have these repaired to avoid water and insect penetration.
Photo 9-1 Photo 9-2
10) Noted deteriorated or rotting wood at garage that will need repair or replacement. Contact carpenter for evaluation and repair.
Photo 10-1 Photo 10-2
11) Noted deterioration to the patio and pool surround that will need repair. Contact appropriate contractor for correction.
Photo 11-1 Photo 11-2
Photo 11-3
12) Noted propane (LP) gas tank(s) on the property. May be owned by the propane supplier or the seller. Large or buried tanks may need re-certification every ten years or so. Contact your local propane company about required permits and code compliance for tanks in this town.
13) Evaluation of the pool and any related equipment is not a part of the home inspection. Highly recommend separate inspection of the pool, surrounding area, fencing, gates, and all associated equipment by pool contractor for safety. Also recommend reviewing service records.
Liner appears to need replacement.
14) Storm doors were not noted on all of the exterior doors - add as needed.
Roof inspection method: Viewed from ground using binoculars, Viewed from windows, Roof viewed from eaves while on ladder
Roof type(s): Gable
Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
Estimated stage of life for roof: Roof appears older, about 20 years old, will need to be monitored. Replace as needed.
General condition of roof: Good, appears serviceable
Drip edge flashing noted at roof perimeter: None seen, add as needed
Roof conditions noted: Roofing stained or dirty, Moss, mold or mildew noted
Roof ventilation seen from exterior: Ridge Vent, Soffit Vents, Gable Vent(s)
Roof penetrations noted and flashings: Plumbing vent pipes, Chimney(s)
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Gutters / downspouts discharge to: Some to ground, some to pipe buried in ground (could not determine where pipe terminates)
Number of chimneys: 2
Chimney(s) made of: Brick
Could the inside of the chimney be viewed from the roof or exterior: No, inside of chimney could not be observed due to chimney cap / spark arrestor, No, inside of chimney could not be observed due to height
Flue liner(s) noted at top of chimney: Yes
Spark arrestor / rain cap observed on top of chimney: Yes
Does chimney appear to have sufficient height and clearance: No, recommend further evaluation by chimney contractor
Chimney location(s): Interior of structure, Exterior of structure
Chimney flashing: Appears to be aluminum
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: No access to inside of chimney, could not observe, Sections of the chimney were not visible and could not be inspected
15) Roof appears older, at or approaching end of life. As roofs age they deteriorate and can let water penetrate the home. Recommend you monitor for any further deterioration or any water penetration, replace roof as needed.
Noted streaks on shingle roof. This is caused by algae buildup - wind carries spores which land on the roof, which can grow there (especially on the north and west exposures in humid weather). According to most shingle manufacturers the algae does not affect the service life of the roof, but can be cleaned off for aesthetic purposes. The shingles can be sprayed with cleansers but never scrubbed as this will remove the granules on the shingles.
Photo 16-1
17) Noted leaves or debris in gutters, should be cleaned to allow system to function properly. If gutters overflow it can lead to water in the basement.
18) Noted bulging or a raised surface at the right front roof. Normally a minor defect, usually caused by moist sheathing under the roofing or siding that was nailed too close together and has swelled, "telegraphing" through the exterior material.
Nothing seen at the interior indicating a structural problem here. Monitor for any further movement, repair as needed.
Photo 18-1
19) Roofs with a low slope are more vulnerable to leakage than steeper sloped roofs, especially during winter weather. Excessive snow and ice can allow water to pond on the roof and cause leakage. Recommend monitoring the roof and underlying ceiling in all low-slope areas for any signs of leakage. Correct as needed.
Consider replacing this one section with EPDM rubber or metal when it is time to re-roof.
Photo 19-1
20) A section of the roof is sloped towards an exterior wall, may be no adequate provision for drainage. Organic debris such as leaves or needles may accumulate here.
Also a possible area for ice dams to form. Recommend monitoring this area and cleaning as necessary.
Photo 20-1
21) Noted gutter downspout(s) from the main or higher roof draining to a lower roof. High volume of water will discharge here, may overwhelm the lower gutters or cause damage to surrounding building materials if it does not drain properly. Need to monitor during a heavy rain, correct as needed.
Noted long gutter run(s) on the home, may need an extra downspout to handle the water flow. Check this during a heavy rain, add downspout(s) as needed.
Photo 21-1
22) Appears chimney may not be high enough or have enough clearance over the roof ridge. Chimney may not draft correctly. If possible chimneys should extend at least 2 feet higher than any portion of the roof or any structure within 10 feet, but must be not less than 3 feet above the point where the chimney passes through the roof. Recommend monitoring, make any repairs as needed.
Photo 22-1
23) Small areas of the chimney flashing showing gaps. Repair as needed.
Grading at driveway directs water away from garage entry: Unsure if grading is correct. Need to monitor and correct the grading as needed.
Garage Floor: Concrete
Garage walls on the interior made of: Sheetrock
Observed overhead in garage: Closed in ceiling
Number of auto doors: 2
Electric opener(s) noted: Yes
Operated garage auto door(s): In working condition
Are garage auto door safety devices installed and working: Yes
Garage windows: Wood
Random tested a sampling of windows and found: Windows open and close under normal pressure
Evidence of water penetration noted: Rust seen on bottoms of door hardware, indicates water penetration in the past. Need to monitor, correct as needed
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Areas blocked from view by stored items
24) Garage-house door isn't auto-closing. Recommend installing hinges with springs or an automatic door closing device so door closes and latches automatically to prevent vehicle fumes or fire from entering building.
Photo 24-1
25) Weatherstrip at the base of the garage vehicle door is deteriorated or damaged. Recommend replacing or repairing weatherstrip.
26) Remove wood, firewood, scraps from the area - it attracts termites and ants.
27) Signs of water penetration in the garage exist. Correct grading, drainage and/or weather stripping as needed.
Apparent evidence of wood destroying insects found: Wood Destroying Insect inspection performed by independent licensed pest control firm, see separate report for details
Location of access to under-floor space: Hallway door, Exterior stairway
Inspection method for basement: Basement was traversed
Inspection method for crawl space(s): Crawl space(s) at right side traversed
Lower level interior: Basement unfinished
Insulation material noted in basement / crawlspace: Fiberglass roll or batt
Location of insulation (if observed): Ceiling
Pier or support post material: Metal
Beam material: Laminated wood
Probed areas of main beam and support posts (if made of wood) for rot: No rot or damage noted
Visible portions of basement / crawlspace floor: Concrete
Interior foundation walls were made of: Concrete
Amount of foundation wall exposed and able to be inspected: Most of foundation at least several inches exposed
Foundation wall cracks / deterioration noted: Yes, appear minor
Water Penetration: Rust or water stains noted on walls, indicates water penetration at some time
Dampness: Dehumidifier noted
Ventilation noted: Windows
Windows made of: Metal
Floor drains noted in basement / crawlspace: None Noted
Sump pump: None noted
Basement egress: Through stairway / bulkhead
Location of chimney cleanout door: None noted, could not look inside chimney to inspect
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Clutter or stored items limits observation in areas, Insulation blocks observation of framing, plumbing, electrical in areas., Rugs, carpet, or other floor coverings obscured observation of floor(s)
28) Chimney clean-out not found (door to access and examine inside of chimney). Should be located or added.
29) Some cracks and deterioration present in foundation walls and floor. These don't appear to be a structural concern but recommend sealing them to prevent water and insect infiltration. Monitor for any further deterioration / movement and correct as needed.
Photo 29-1 Photo 29-2
Photo 29-3
30) Noted rust at the basement door that needs repair / paint.
Photo 30-1
31) Evidence of rodent infiltration is visible in the form of rodent feces, traps, poison and/or burrow holes in insulation. Recommend using traps in the future to prevent rodents from dying in inaccessible areas. The clients may want to consult with a professional exterminator.
If rodents are in this area then they have access to all other areas of the home.
32) Observed water stains or other signs of moisture in the basement indicating water penetration or a leak at some time. Monitor this area for further water intrusion, make sure soil is graded away from house around the perimeter and that the gutters are properly sized and working correctly. Repair, install, or improve underground footing and/or curtain drains as needed. If area still continues to take on water consider adding a sump pump and/or have a waterproofing contractor evaluate the area and make any needed repairs. Keep stored items off the floor until the area stays dry and any possible water penetration is corrected to prevent water damage.
Homeowners need to maintain grading, gutters and downspouts to keep their basements dry. All gutters on a home will need periodic maintenance (cleaning) at least yearly. Clogged gutters will cause water penetration to a basement. Check grading yearly, surface water should flow away from the home. If gutter downspouts discharge water to the surface it must be directed away from the home.
All dry on day of inspection.
33) I noted this sill plate not lying flat at the left side of the crawlspace entry. It does not appear to have any structural significance.
Probable grounding for the main electrical panel observed: Grounding appears to be through cable buried in soil at exterior
Main panel bonded to grounding system: Yes, appears serviceable
Any "double-taps" noted on the circuit breakers or bus bar in the main electrical panel: No, appears serviceable
Was a minimum of twelve circuits found in the electrical main panel to service the home: Yes
Minimum 30AMP circuit noted for electric dryer: Yes, appears serviceable
Minimum 40AMP circuit noted for electric stove / range: No, have electrician evaluate and correct as needed
Is the kitchen wired with at least one 20AMP circuit?: Yes, good.
Number of 110 / 120v 15AMP breakers noted in main panel: 10
Number of 110 / 120v 20AMP breakers noted in main panel: 13
Number of 220 / 240v 20AMP breakers noted in main panel: 3
Number of 220 / 240v 30AMP breakers noted in main panel: 2
Number of 220 / 240v 40AMP breakers noted in main panel: 1
Number of 220 / 240v 50AMP breakers noted in main panel: 1
Is each 240v breaker correctly tied together: Yes, appears serviceable
34) Ground Fault Circuit interrupt (GFCI) electrical outlets not noted at laundry sink, recommend installing for safety. GFCI outlets provide a measure of shock protection in wet or exterior areas. Recommend having a licensed electrician install outlets as necessary.
35) Not enough ground fault circuit interupt (GFCI) electrical outlets installed in the kitchen. Have electrician add more for safety.
36) Noted extension cords / adapters in use at both the interior and the exterior. Adding an electrical outlet here would be safer than using an extension cord, which are normally considered a temporary solution. Have electrician replace with permanent wiring or add additional electrical outlets as needed.
Relatively few electric outlets are installed in one or more interior rooms. While not necessarily a defect there may not be enough electrical outlets here to suit a modern family's needs. Recommend having a licensed electrician evaluate and install additional outlets as necessary and as per the current National Electric Code.
37) The piping / insulation for the cooling compressor at the rear exterior is blocking access to the electrical breaker for the unit. Repair as needed.
Photo 37-1
38) Noted what appears to be undersized electrical circuit(s) for electric stove / range / oven. Have electrician evaluate, make any corrections as needed.
Photo 38-1 Photo 38-2
39) Noted electrical equipment relating to a generator. Recommend electrician evaluate before use. Do not operate unless properly installed safety equipment (like a transfer switch) is in place and it has been evaluated by an electrician for safety.
Breakers in each electrical panel are specific to the manufacturer - in most cases they cannot be interchanged between manufacturers, even if they appear to fit correctly. Noted a mix of circuit breakers made by different companies inside the panel, recommend further evaluation for safety. Replace breakers as needed.
Apparent age of water heater based upon: Manufacturers' date code on unit
Energy source: Oil
Location of shut-off for hot water heater: Oil valve at the oil tank
Capacity (in gallons) per label: 50
Temperature - pressure relief valve noted: Yes
After running the hot water for at least 20 minutes, the water temperature was: Hot
Hot water faucets were random tested throughout the house and: Hot water was received at each faucet
Water temperature: Between 110 and 120 degrees (good)
Hot water heater flue type: Flue pipe vents into chimney
Flue pipe pitches up toward chimney or wall for safety: Yes
40) Temperature-pressure relief safety extension is too short, does not extend far enough down to the floor. Recommend having a plumber install an extension extending to within 6" from the floor, or routed so as to drain outside.
41) Hot water heater corroded, older, appears to be at the end of its lifespan - recommend you replace it. Contact licensed plumber or heating contractor for replacement.
The temperature pressure relief valve at the hot water heater has been replaced fairly recently. It does not appear to be the right type of valve for this water heater. Recommend evaluation by plumber, replace as needed.
Photo 41-1 Photo 41-2
42) Based upon the number of people moving into the home you may need to upgrade your hot water heater to a larger unit that holds more hot water. As a guide (this varies on usage): Oil and Gas Hot Water Heaters - allow 10 or more gallons per person. Electric Hot Water Heaters - allow 20 gallons or more per person.
The age and condition of unit, along with your needs, will effect the ability of the unit to supply hot water. Be prepared to upgrade the heater as needed to provide enough hot water for showers, laundry, dishes, etc.
Water supply system has not been inspected but the type of water service is stated by Realtor / real estate listing / owner / client to be: Private source (private well, community well field, reservoir). but was not verified. This information is considered reliable, however, client should verify all information provided by third parties.
Type of waste disposal system has not been inspected but is reported by Realtor / real estate listing / seller / client to be: Private ("septic system"), but was not verified. This information is considered reliable, however, client should verify all information provided by third parties. Highly recommend you have the system examined by a licensed septic contractor before purchasing the home.
Location of well: Rear
Location of well pipes entering home: Rear
Private water well system components seen during the inspection: Pressure / holding tank, Sediment or particulate filter (will require periodic cleaning or replacement)
Water entry pipes appear to be made of: Plastic
Location of water shut-off valve (main): At blue well tank
Type of well pump: Not seen or verified but typically a submersible pump (located at bottom of well)
Manufacture date or age of well pump: Writing on well tank states that new pump was installed 2010 - you should get paperwork from seller to confirm
Condition of the well storage tank: Good
Age of well pressure tank: 2011
Was pressure gauge on well tank operational: Yes
Pressure relief valve noted at tank: Yes
Interior water supply pipes made of: Copper
Insulation noted on all the plumbing supply pipes: No, add as needed
Tested functional flow of water by opening multiple fixtures and flushing toilet to stress the system. Noted the following: Minimal decrease in flow, appears normal
Ran water at kitchen sink: No leaks noted
Kitchen sink made of: Stainless steel
Garbage disposal noted at sink: No
Waste ejectors noted?: No
Waste pipe material: Plastic
Main waste pipe location: Front
Waste clean-outs observed?: Yes
Location of laundry area: In or near the kitchen
Tested washer: Washer advanced through cycles, heard water come in, splash, spin and pump out
Washer discharges to: Drain pipe
Tested dryer: Heard dryer spin and felt it warm up
Dryer powered by: Electric
Dryer vented to: Exterior
Dryer duct material made of: Metal Foil (replace for safety)
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Finished areas block full observation of plumbing, could not fully inspect, Excessive stored items under sink(s) prevents observation, The insides of pipes, fixtures, and drains were not observable
43) The clothes dryer was equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct.
44) Water leak noted at boiler cold water supply pipe that need repair. Contact licensed plumber for evaluation and correction.
Photo 44-1
45) The exterior well casing is less than 12" above the ground. Recommend grading soil so there's at least 12" from the top of the well casing to the ground to reduce the chance of contaminants entering the well.
Photo 45-1
46) Recommend enclosing the electrical line for the well equipment in conduit.
Photo 46-1
47) Non or poorly insulated water supply pipes were noted. Recommend insulating the pipes. This will A) help prevent any condensation forming on the pipes and decrease resulting moisture B) help keep the pipes from freezing during a cold spell , and C) increase energy efficiency.
48) Recommend you replace the rubber water supply hoses at the washer with steel braided hoses. Rubber hoses will deteriorate over time and burst under pressure, causing flooding.
49) Washing machine is installed on, adjacent to, or over finished living space and no catch-pan or drain is visible. If there is no drain or pan I recommend having a qualified contractor install a catch pan (and drain, if possible) to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces if the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained.
Photo 49-1
50) Recommend changing the basement water filter cartridge when you move in.
51) Real estate listing states that this home is supplied with water from a private well. The State of Connecticut recommends having your well water tested for bacteria, metals, minerals, fluoride, lead, arsenic, voc's, uranium, and radon by a qualified lab. Contact local health department for advice on any other contaminants that you may want to test for. http://www.ct.gov/dph/lib/dph/environmental_health/eoha/pdf/24_residential_drinking_water_well_testing.pdf
Recommend having septic system inspected by a septic contractor. Have it pumped as needed.
52) Noted water stains at or around the hot water heater and well equipment. Equipment may have leaked at one time. Need to monitor for any water here, make any repairs as needed.
No water or leaks visible at the time of inspection.
Compressor / condenser build date (if listed): 2012
Location of compressor: Exterior
Estimated stage of life: Mid-life
Air supplied to furnace / boiler from: Interior
Oil or Gas entry location: Front
Location of fuel shut-off: On the oil line
Distribution system: Ducts. Replace any air filters every month or so. Have ducts cleaned about every five years or so.
Location of emergency shut-off switch for heating system: Top of the stairs
Location of Oil Tank: Crawlspace
Manufacture date for oil tank: Unknown, appears original to house
Location of oil filter (service annually): At tank
Location of heating / cooling air filter(s): At basement furnace
Heating filter type and condition (clean or replace at least twice a year): Disposable
Filter Size (as listed on existing filter): 20x25
Flue pipe pitches up toward chimney or wall for safety: Yes
Flue pipes and joints secure: Yes
Humidifier noted on system?: No
Number of zones noted: Two
Location of thermostats: 1st floor, 2nd floor
Boiler / furnace / air handler came on when thermostat was turned on: Yes
Heat felt in all rooms that have a heat source?: Yes
Heat in use at start of the inspection: No
Central Air Conditioning type: Electric Compressor / condenser. Have system serviced annually, replace any air filters every month or so.
Does cooling system appear large enough to cool the home properly: Unknown. Recommend evaluation by cooling contractor.
Located condensate line from cooling system: Yes
Individual room air conditioning units observed: No
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Inside of flue pipe / chimney was not accessible or inspected
53) Heating and/or cooling ducts not insulated. Recommend correction by HVAC contractor.
Photo 53-1
54) No Oil Safety Valve (OSV) noted on oil line. This device will stem the flow of oil should the line rupture or break. Recommend you have the oil company install on your oil line / oil tank as a preventative measure in case of an accident.
Noted oil line(s) buried in concrete. The concrete can erode the lines over time. Recommend having heating contractor install plastic sleeves over line(s) for protection.
There is a shim under one of the legs for your oil tank in the crawlspace. Should be replaced with a more stable shim.
Noted signs of an oil leak at the top of the oil tank near the fill tube or the vent pipe. Normally not a problem, usually happens when the tank is overfilled or filled too fast by the delivery man. Have heating contractor evaluate and repair as needed.
Oil tank starting to rust, could use some paint.
Photo 54-1 Photo 54-2
55) The estimate life span for most furnaces is 12 to 15 years. This unit appears to have exceeded this age and may need replacing at any time.
56) Cooling compressor at rear exterior needs to be cleaned or hosed off.
Photo 56-1
57) Noted water stains at or under the heating flue pipe, needs correction. Some possible causes: unit needs cleaning or tuning, no rain cap at top of chimney, leak at chimney flashing, combustion gasses condensing before they leave the flue pipe and dripping back down the pipe as water (flue not sized correctly).
Photo 57-1
58) Could not fully evaluate the cooling system - exterior air is not warm enough for the unit(s) to convert into cold air. Compressor operated and blew cold air. Recommend you have system(s) evaluated during warmer weather, repair as needed.
59) While determining the cooling supply adequacy or balance is beyond the scope of a home inspection it appears that the air conditioning system may not be sized correctly to properly cool the home. This is a large home and only one air handler / compressor is installed.
Hearth 16" wide or greater?: Yes, appears serviceable
Attempted to open damper: Opened and closed, appeared to operate correctly
Could inside of chimney / fireplace be seen and evaluated: Partially, some areas blocked from view
Looking past the damper opening was a flue liner visible: Yes
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected as needed, hidden damage may exist: Inside of chimney is only partially visible to inspector
60) Creosote is visible at the fireplace(s). Recommend cleaning, inspection and repairs if necessary by a qualified chimney service contractor.
Photo 60-1
61) Noted stains on the exterior of the fireplace, could indicate that the fireplace is not venting correctly and smoke is getting into the interior of the home. Make any repairs as needed.
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: One
Sinks attached securely: Yes
Floor: Tile
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Stored items under sink blocks observation in areas
Bathroom ventilation noted: Window, Fan that vents to unknown location, cannot determine termination, needs to vent to the exterior. Correct as needed.
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: Two
Sinks attached securely: Yes
Shower / tub surround made of: Plastic / Fiberglass
Floor: Tile
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Stored items under sink blocks observation in areas, After examination it could not be determined if the bathroom vent exhausts to the exterior. Moist air from bathroom should discharge to the exterior. Correct as needed.
62) Noted stains on ceiling / walls and mold that is usually an indication of insufficient ventilation. Increase ventilation here as needed.
Photo 62-1
63) Toilet appears to be slightly loose and may need re-anchoring. Recommend repairing so toilet is securely fastened to the floor. Loose toilets may also leak at the floor, monitor this area for any deterioration or damage and repair as needed.
64) Sink stopper inoperable, missing or broken. Need to add or repair so it opens and closes correctly.
65) Noted peeling paint at the exterior of the tub / shower. Monitor tub for drips or leaks, repair as needed.
Type of fixtures: Shower stall with separate whirlpool tub
Bathroom ventilation noted: Window, Fan that vents to unknown location, cannot determine termination, needs to vent to the exterior. Correct as needed.
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: Two
Sinks attached securely: Yes
Shower / tub surround made of: Plastic / Fiberglass
GFCI installed on whirlpool tub: No, needs to be added for safety
Floor: Tile
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Stored items under sink blocks observation in areas, After examination it could not be determined if the bathroom vent exhausts to the exterior. Moist air from bathroom should discharge to the exterior. Correct as needed.
66) Noted whirlpool tub with no apparent GFI electrical circuit, may or may not exist. GFI circuits can help protect the user from electrical shock. Recommend you have an electrician evaluate the system and add GFI protection as needed.
67) Could not get whirlpool tub to power on. Could be a tripped breaker, tripped GFCI switch, hidden power switch, or the tub may need repair. Have plumber / electrician repair as needed.
68) Noted stains on ceiling / walls that is usually an indication of insufficient ventilation. Increase ventilation here as needed.
69) Sink stopper inoperable, missing or broken. Need to add or repair so it opens and closes correctly.
70) Grout and / or caulk around the tub / shower area is deteriorated, cracked, loose, or missing. Recommend removing any old and damaged materials and applying a new bead of tub-tile caulk or a new application of grout to prevent water damage to wall and floor materials.
71) Cracks in the ceiling noted. Tested with moisture meter, all dry at the time of inspection. Appears to be cosmetic at this time.
Security system noted: Yes - not tested. Have alarm company test the system
Smoke detectors were tested by: Not tested, believe they may be hooked into a central alarm - HAVE THE ALARM COMPANY TEST ALL SMOKE DETECTORS FOR SAFETY BEFORE MOVING INTO THE HOUSE
Were carbon monoxide detectors noted?: No, add for safety
Options noted on refrigerator: Ice maker, Water dispenser, Water filter
Operated refrigerator: Appears operational
Type of range: Electric
Operated range: All burners turned on and gave heat
Oven Type: Electric
Oven is: A separate unit from the range / stove
Range hood vents inside or outside: To the exterior
Operated range hood / vent: Appears to be working
Operated dishwasher: Heard water come in, splash, pump out, appears to be working
Operated Microwave: Heated up, appears to be working
Ground Fault Interrupt outlet installed near sink(s) in kitchen: Not enough, have electrician install more for safety
Kitchen counters appear to be made of: Granite
Kitchen floor appears to be made of: Wood or wood laminate
General condition of the interior rooms: Good - floors, ceilings and walls mostly in good condition. There may be some small cracks, holes or nail pops that are cosmetic and need repair.
Signs of roof or plumbing leaks in the interior: None noted at the time of inspection
Interior walls appear to be made of: Dry wall
Wall insulation: Unknown, not seen. Add more as needed.
Interior floors consist of: Wood or wood laminate, Tile, Wall to wall carpet, Rugs
When floors were bounced on noticed: A normal amount of bounce
Types of windows: Double Hung, Casement, Wood
Window glazing: Windows appear to be insulated glass
Were "fogged" window(s) noted (leaking seal between glass panes): None noted at the time of inspection. Note that evidence of broken seals may be more or less visible from one day to the next depending on the weather (temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc.), and that windows may have bad seals and not be able to be detected.
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have these items or areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Clutter, furniture or stored items prevented access or observation of areas
72) No carbon monoxide detectors noted, make sure there is at least one working detector on each floor before moving into the home. Follow manufacturers instructions as to placement and installation. Go to http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html for more info.
73) Refrigerator / freezer shelving is crooked or loose. Recommend repairing or replacing.
Photo 73-1
74) Wrong type of ducting noted on kitchen vent fan. The best type of material to use is smooth metal in order not to trap or collect grease. Correct as needed.
Photo 74-1
75) Appears that the wrong type of fasteners were used to attach kitchen cabinets to the wall. Recommend using proper fasteners here for safety (not sheet rock screws, which can break under the weight of a loaded cabinet).
76) Noted some lights that did not light when the switch was flipped or some switches where the use could not be ascertained. This is common, the switch may actually control an outlet or some other device not seen by the inspector. Bulbs may be burnt-out. If not, switches or wiring may need repair.
77) Some screens on windows appear to be missing and need replacement (lower level right side).
Screens ripped or torn and need repair in areas.
78) Noted ant or insect bait traps, likely that there are ants here. Monitor for any signs of insects, treat area or call exterminator as needed.
79) The on / off power switch for the dishwasher needs repair. It was operational at the time of inspection.
Photo 79-1
80) Interior ceilings, walls, trim, etc. will need some cosmetic work (cracks, nail pops, paint, peeling wallpaper, small holes, missing trim, or the like).
Interiors generally need painting when you move in. Once the paintings or pictures are removed from walls you'll see outlines.
Some doors do not open, close, latch, or lock correctly, need adjustment or repair.
81) Security system noted in home, it was not tested and is not part of this inspection report. Contact the alarm company before moving in to test the system (especially smoke and carbon monoxide detectors), repair as needed. Have any codes changed the day you move in.
Any smoke / carbon monoxide detectors in the home were not tested, they may be hooked into the alarm system for the house. Have the alarm company test (and repair if needed) any and all detectors BEFORE sleeping in the house.
Approximate insulation R value (will probably vary in areas): R38
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Noted limited access to attic, areas not observed, Insulation obscures areas from observation
82) No insulation or weatherstripping is installed on the attic access hatch. Recommend installing insulation and weatherstripping on hatch for better energy efficiency. This will also help to prevent ice dams on the roof in the winter and help prevent mold / mildew in the attic.
83) Evidence of rodent infiltration is visible in the form of rodent feces, traps, poison and/or burrow holes in insulation. Recommend using traps in the future to prevent rodents from dying in inaccessible areas. The clients may want to consult with a professional exterminator.
If rodents are in this area then they have access to all other areas of the home.
84) Water stains noted in the attic. Leaks may be active or previously repaired, no way to tell without observation during a rain. Recommend you have a roofer evaluate for leaks, make any repairs as needed. At a minimum you should go in the attic during a rain to check for any active leaks so they can be repaired promptly.
Tested visible water stains with a moisture meter, they were dry at the time of inspection
This inspection report is intended as a general guide to help you make an evaluation as to the overall condition of the property. It is not intended to place a value on the home or building, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase. It is not a guarantee or warranty. It is not an insurance policy.
The report reflects the opinion of the inspector(s), based upon visual impressions of conditions that existed at the time of inspection. The inspection is not intended to be technically exhaustive or to imply that every component in the structure was inspected. No disassembly of equipment, opening of walls, moving of furniture or stored items was performed or is compulsory by state requirements. Any and all components which were concealed or obscured from observation at the time of inspection (including those concealed by clutter and stored items) are necessarily excluded from the report. I recommend that any systems or components be made accessible and inspected by a professional prior to expiration of the inspection contingency period - hidden damage may exist. Unless noted otherwise the exterior was inspected from the ground. Only a representative sampling of parts and components (windows, electrical outlets, roof shingles, exterior wall trim and cladding, etc.) were examined and are within the scope of this inspection. Unless noted otherwise roofs and roofing materials may be inspected from the ground with binoculars, from the roof edge when possible, or from windows overlooking the roof.
Environmental hazards are not within the scope of this inspection and are excluded from the report. Hazards not covered or within the scope of the inspection include but are not limited to radon gas, uranium, pesticides, VOC's, arsenic, carbon monoxide, lead and lead paint, buried storage tanks, asbestos, vermiculite, chinese (sulfur) drywall, urea formaldehyde, and mold. Also excluded from this inspection are heating system heat exchangers, humidifiers, heat-recovery and energy recovery ventilators, solar heating systems, heating / cooling adequacy or distribution balance, pools and related equipment, hot tubs, steam showers and saunas, spas, fountains, high-tension towers and power lines, exterior lighting, water wells (including yield and recovery), zoning ordinances, intercoms, playground equipment, sports courts, elevators, outbuildings (gazebos, barns, sheds, cabanas, storage buildings, etc.), ponds, wetlands, septic tanks and sewage systems, water treatment equipment, security systems, heated driveways, sprinkler systems (both fire and lawn), bridges (over culverts, streams, ponds, etc.), generators and related accessories, docks and sea walls, boathouses, greenhouses, invisible fencing, electric gates, low voltage lighting systems, wine cellar fans / refrigeration and associated apparatus, trash compactors, and central vacuum systems. Condo common areas are excluded. This is not an inspection for insects (including wood destroying), rodents birds, or other infestations. Damage may exist to the home inside of walls and finished areas that was inaccessible to the inspector and not visible at time of inspection. Re-inspection or additional testing is not included and will incur an additional fee if needed. If operated components / appliances are energized by using normal operating controls to activate the primary function only. No warranty or guaranty of the home or components is implied by Allied Home Inspections LLC. Any comments made regarding excluded components are as a courtesy only - they should be evaluated by a qualified professional.
This inspection does not include testing or evaluation of any water well systems. Any above-ground and observable well components that may need repair will be remarked upon in this section as a courtesy. Evaluation by a licensed well contractor is always advised. Water testing is advised before purchase and on a yearly basis.
This inspection report is not a compliance inspection for any government codes or regulations, nor as a property or land survey. It does not include a search for proper construction permits, certificates of occupancy, or proof of having passed a final inspection from local authorities. The types of water supply (public supply or private well) and waste disposal (public sewer or private septic system) cannot be accurately determined by a home inspection and were not part of your home examination. I recommend you check with your local Town Hall or other source of building records / permits to verify your type of system before purchase.
Allied Home Inspections LLC 2017 CT License #HOI445 NY License #16000012630
