Property Inspection Report
51 Crest Drive
East Northport, NY 11731

1) - We appreciate the opportunity to conduct this inspection for you! Please carefully read your entire Inspection Report. Call us 631-241-4038 after you have reviewed your report, so we can go over any questions you may have. Remember, when the inspection is completed and the report is delivered, we are still available to you for any questions you may have, throughout the entire closing process.

Properties being inspected do not "Pass" or "Fail. The following report is based on an inspection of the visible portion of the structure; inspection may be limited by vegetation and possessions. Depending upon the age of the property, some items like GFCI outlets may not be installed; this report will focus on safety and function, not current code. This report identifies specific non-code, non-cosmetic concerns that the inspector feels may need further investigation or repair.

For your safety and liability purposes, we recommend that licensed contractors evaluate and repair any critical concerns and defects. Note that this report is a snapshot in time. We recommend that you carry out a final walk-through inspection immediately before closing to check the condition of the property, using this report as a guide. We offer a Final Walk Through Inspection as one of our services. We provide this service at a discounted rate to former clients.

Please note the link for this report expires within 120 days so please print a copy of this report for your records as soon as possible.

2) - Based on construction observed, additions and/or modifications to this property may have been made without the owner having attained permits or inspections from the municipality. Work may have been performed by someone other than a qualified contractor or person. The client should consult with the property owner about this, and if necessary research permits.

At worst case, if substantial work was performed without permits, this knowledge must be disclosed when the building is sold in the future. This can adversely affect future sales. Also, the local municipality could require costly alterations to bring the building into legal compliance or even require that the additions or modifications be removed.

3) Repair/Replace, Minor defect - Flashing was missing from above one or more deck ledger boards. This can cause moisture to accumulate between the ledger board(s) and the building. Rot may result in this area and cause the ledger board fasteners to fail. The deck may separate from the building in this event and poses a significant safety hazard. A qualified contractor should install flashing above ledger board(s) where necessary. For more information on installing deck ledger boards visit:
http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/decks/deck_4.htm

And for more information on building safe decks in general, visit: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/exteriors/article/0,16417,212625,00.html

4) Comment - Decking boards were spaced closer together than 3/8 inch with accumulated organic debris (leaves, fir needles, etc.). This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Debris should be cleaned as necessary to prevent accumulation and resultant rot. If or when the deck boards are replaced, recommend spacing boards so they're at least 3/8 inch apart to allow debris to fall through the cracks rather than accumulate in them.

5) - Grading and drainage are probably the most significant aspects of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters. Also, there should be gutters and downspouts with splash blocks that discharge away from the building. We have discovered evidence of moisture intrusion inside structures when it was raining that would not have been apparent otherwise.

In addition, we recommend that downspouts do not terminate over paved areas such as walks or driveways, as they can contribute to icy slip and fall hazards in winter.

Minor settlement or hairline cracks in drives, walks or even foundations are normal to properties of any age. They should, however, be monitored for expansion and sealed as necessary.

Vegetation too close to the home can contribute to damage through root damage to the foundation, branches abrading the roof and siding, and leaves providing a pathway for moisture and insects into the home.

Although rails are not required around drop-offs less than 30 inches, consider your own personal needs and those of your family and guests. By today's standards, spindles at decks and steps should be spaced no more than 4 inches apart for the safety of children.

An egress ladder and window should also be installed within the well or basement wall, especially where below-grade bedrooms exist and no basement access door exists.

6) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Monitor - The metal chimney pipe extension is showing signs of rust and deterioration. The connection at the limits of the wood enclosure appear to be substandard and deteriorated.

7) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Some downspouts were loose. Water may accumulate around the building foundation as a result. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary.

8) Repair/Maintain, Minor defect - There is deterioration of the vinyl siding in the back of the home. It appears to be wrinkling of the vinyl surface most likely caused from excessive heat exposure to the area.

9) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - There is a brink window well below the dinning room bay window that needs to be cleaned. Also in this same area, the bottom of the window projection needs to be insulated and sealed to prevent entrance of vermin into the wall cavity. Additionally, the foundation supporting the bay window projection is substandard.

10) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - The electrical GFCI receptacle outdoor box was not securely attached to the deck stair. It should be repaired by a licensed electrician.

11) Repair/Maintain - Soil was in contact with or less than six inches from siding and/or trim. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Soil should be graded and/or removed as necessary so there are at least six inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil below.

12) - There is staining of the vinyl siding caused by a mold type growth. The siding should be cleaned of this material.

13) Major defect, Repair/Replace - No insulation was installed under the floor in the crawl space. A qualified contractor should install insulation for better energy efficiency and as per standard building practices with an R rating recommended for this area. For more information, visit:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html

14) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Monitor - Substandard construction was found in some areas of the floor substructure. For example, over spanned beams. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary, and as per standard building practices.

The main beam is missing column supports at critical locations adjacent to the basement stairs. Existing temporary metal and wood columns should be replaced with steel columns with adequate footings below the basement floor. The concrete basement floor was also noted to contain hollow spots.

15) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Comment - There is an abandoned fuel oil tank in a crawl space located in the northwest corner of the home below the kitchen and 1st floor bathroom. The tank is partially buried and shows signs of rusting. The tank should be removed from the crawl space.

16) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The vapor barrier in the crawl space was missing in all areas. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to the likelihood of water evaporating into the structure from the soil. A qualified person should evaluate and replace or repair sections as necessary. Standard building practices require the following:

• The soil below the vapor barrier should be smooth and free from sharp objects.
• Seams should overlap a minimum of 12 inches.
• The vapor barrier should lap up onto the foundation side walls.

Better building practices require that:

• Seams and protrusions should be sealed with a pressure sensitive tape.
• The vapor barrier should be caulked and attached tightly to the foundation side walls. For example, with furring strips and masonry nails.

17) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Ventilation for the crawl space was substandard. This may result in high levels of moisture in the crawl space and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of crawl space. Vents should be evenly distributed and within a few feet of corners to promote air circulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.

18) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Subfloor foundation support located along a portion of the crawl space perimeter was missing. This condition should be corrected by a qualified contractor.

19) Repair/Replace, Monitor - Spauling has occurred which is a cracking/peeling of the surface area of the interior/exterior of the concrete foundation. Suggest scraping off all loose material and apply sealant. You may want to hire a qualified professional to perform this work.

20) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate, Monitor - One or more minor exterior cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitoring them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including hydraulic cement, resilient caulks and epoxy sealants.

21) - Foundation
A foundation provides a stable, rigid base to support a home. The foundation supports the frame and structure and protects it from moisture and contact with the soil. The foundation must rest on firm soil and be protected from water entry or excessive dampness. The majority of homes are built on foundations that form a crawl space or full basement. The basement rests on a footing that supports the home's weight. Foundation walls are constructed of brick, concrete block, poured concrete, clay tile, stone, or similar materials. The basement floor usually consists of poured concrete. Crawl spaces can either have a dirt or concrete floor.

Full-depth basements are the most complicated type of foundation because of potential water problems and the pressure of soil outside the basement walls. While full-depth basements require the most maintenance, crawl spaces and slab foundations must also be protected from excessive moisture.

Proper grading around the house is your best protection against seepage into the basement that may cause expensive damage. When a home is built, workers dig the excavation several feet larger than the basement walls to allow for construction clearances. At the base of the hole, near the footing, they install a drain tile system and cover it with a small amount of gravel. They also apply a damp-proof coating to the walls and the hole is filled. Most of the hole around the basement is filled with soil from the site. This may contain gravel, rock, wood, paper, and unfortunately almost anything no longer useful to home construction. For the next 20 years, this soil and "stuff" settles around your basement walls. It settles quickly for the first few years and more slowly after that.

To divert surface water the soil should pitch away from the home with a 1 inch pitch per foot for about 6 feet beyond the foundation. All downspouts from the roof drainage system should be at least 3 feet away from the foundation. Open window wells should have either grates or, preferably, a weatherproof shield over them. This will keep the rain and snow from building up inside the well and possibly leaking into the home.

22) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more junction boxes they are installed did not have covers. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

23) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more electric receptacles at the basement had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/nec/pdf/GFCI_requirement_page2.pdf

24) Evaluate, Monitor, Comment - It was noted that the basement floor may contain hollow areas, as a step in the middle of the basement floor was observed. The floor area should be evaluated and monitored for the location of additional hollow spots.

25) Comment - Some basement sections were not evaluated due to lack of access from the following conditions: stored items and couldn't be fully evaluated.

26) Repair/Replace - Some "rubber boot" flashings were loose. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair/replace flashings where necessary.

27) Monitor, Serviceable, Comment - Skylight flashing appears servicable

28) Comment - The attic ventilation fan was not tested and is excluded from this inspection.

29) - Roofing
All roofs have structural framing of joists or trusses that support a wood deck that is either plywood, solid 3/4 inch wood planking or oriented strand board. In general, the two basic styles are sloped and low-sloped (or flat) roofs.
Asphalt fiberglass shingles (3-tab or architectural) are the most common type of sloped roofing material. A typical asphalt shingle can last from 15-40 years. Asphalt fiberglass shingles come in many shapes and sizes. Other materials used for sloped roofs include wood shakes, wood shingles, cement asbestos, tile, slate, metal, and cement tile.

Low-slope or flat roofs require a special roofing material to seal against moisture. Since the slope is low, water does not easily run from the surface. Materials used include single-ply rubber, roll roofing, torch down (modified bitumen), metal, and built-up roofing. On occasion it may be acceptable to use a sloped shingle on a flat roof if an ice membrane is used. A flat roof should have a slight slope to prevent puddling of water. Flat roof material is not made to walk on.

Roof Ventilation
Ventilation is necessary to remove moisture from the attic. This is achieved through a various combinations of roof vents, soffit vents, gable wall vents, ridge vents, static vents, and ventilation fans. Good attic ventilation lowers air conditioning costs. Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans are needed to remove excessive moisture, but they must be routed to the exterior and not into the attic. Excessive moisture causes mildew and mold.

Gutters and Downspouts
When it rains, your roof sheds a tremendous quantity of water that must be moved away from the foundation to protect the basement or crawlspace. Always have downspouts drain at least 3 feet away from the foundation. Always make sure your gutters are cleaned and flowing correctly. If downspouts are draining underground always monitor during heavy rain to make sure there is no back up of water.

Adequate attic ventilation, solar / wind exposure, and organic debris all affect the life expectancy of a roof (see www.gaf.com for roof info).  Always ask the seller about the age and history of the roof.  Metal roofs in snow areas often do not have gutters and downspouts, as there is a concern that snow or ice cascading off the roof may tear gutters from the house.  Likewise, be advised that such cascading may cause personal injury or even death.  If this house has a metal roof, consult with qualified roofers or contractors regarding the advisability of installing a damming feature which may limit the size and amount of snow / ice sliding from the roof.  

30) - Most newer homes are insulated with fiberglass, cellulose fiber, rigid plastic foam, or a combination of these products. Older homes may have vermiculite, wood shavings, paper products, and other types of insulation.

Often, homeowners add insulation to walls and attics of older homes to increase energy efficiency. Insulation is rated with an R-value, which simply indicates the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the higher the resistance. The key thing to remember is that when you double the R-value you cut the heat loss in half.

Most fiberglass is rated at about R-3 per inch of thickness. A 6 inch section of fiberglass would be rated about R-19. The R-value for rigid foam ranges from 5 to 7 per inch. Cellulose and mineral wool provide about an R-3 per inch. Most walls built today have an R-value around 11-13 and attics have an R-value around 30.

No matter how well a home is constructed, moisture will reach the attic. It is impossible to seal this area. So ventilation is necessary to remove moisture and excessive heat from the attic. This is achieved through various combinations of roof vents, soffit vents, gable end vents, ridge vents, and ventilation fans.

31) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The electric service was configured so that too many hand movements are necessary to turn off all power for the service. Standard building practices require there to be six or fewer switches and six or fewer hand movements necessary to turn off all power for an electric service. This may be a safety hazard during an emergency when the power needs to be turned off quickly. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

32) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Modifications were made to panel #A or to equipment inside. Electric panels and equipment are Underwriter Laboratory rated devices, and modifications to them are not allowed. A qualified electrician should evaluate and replace or repair as necessary.

33) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Extension cords were being used as permanent wiring in one or more areas. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring poses a fire and shock hazard, and is an indication that wiring is inadequate and should be updated. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure, resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, and sparks that could start a fire. Extension cords should be removed as necessary, or a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install additional circuits and/or electric receptacles. This condition existed in the crawlspace located under the kitchen/1st floor bathroom and in the backyard shed.

34) Safety, Minor defect - Some cover plates on junction and/or receptacle boxes were missing. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

35) Safety, Maintain - Batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html

36) Safety, Evaluate - Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the mid 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Centigrade. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950 may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Centigrade. Connecting older, 60 degree-rated wiring to such newer fixtures is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of fire. Repairs for such conditions often involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90 degree-rated wire. This often requires installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring.

It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if such incompatible components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware that this safety hazard may be present in this building. Recommend consulting with the property owner to determine if and when newer fixtures were installed, and/or to have a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as per standard building practices.

37) Major defect, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The electric service to this property appeared to be rated at less than 200 amps, and may be inadequate for the client's needs. Recommend consulting with a qualified electrician about upgrading to a 200 amp service.

38) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more GFCI electric receptacles appeared to have no power on the backyard deck. Recommend asking the property owner about this. Switches may need to be operated to make some receptacles energized. If necessary, a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

39) Comment - All smoke detectors were not tested due to the following conditions: out of reach.

40) - The electrical supply to your home begins outside, either from your electric company's overhead or underground line. The main electric panel, which is usually located in the basement or garage, is divided into circuits through individual breakers or fuses and is fed through the wiring system, outlets and cords to various electrical devices.
Any home that has a Bulldog Pushmatic, Zinsco, Sylvania Zinsco or Federal Pacific main electric panel should have it evaluated by a licensed electrician, as these are older types of panels and breakers that have been known to overheat and cause house fires.
Most modern homes have 220-volt systems with a minimum of 100 amps of power. Older houses may have fuses and can have 60 amp systems. Main panels can have sub-panels that are fed by the main panel. These sub-panels can range in size from 30 amps on up. On most main panels you will find one breaker marked "main." This breaker will be near the top of the box and will be 100, 150, or 200 amp. If you switch this breaker off, all power in your home will be disconnected.
Distribution wiring is what routes electrical power to lights, outlets and appliances. Most of this wiring is buried in walls and attics, but some will be visible near the main service panel and in basements and crawl spaces. Since the 1970's, plastic shielded wiring (Romex is a common brand name) has been used in residential construction. Older homes may have cloth shielded wiring, BX or flexible metal-shielded wiring, or even conduit (metal pipe). The composition of the wire used is normally copper but during the 1950's a tin coating was used for a short period of time to cover the copper and in the 1970's solid 1 strand aluminum was briefly used. Any type of single strand aluminum wiring has been proven to be a fire hazard and if found will be noted on our report and should be evaluated by a licensed electrician.
A ground fault circuit interrupter GFCI is a valuable safety device that should be installed in bathrooms, kitchens, sink locations, unfinished basements, laundry rooms, garages and exterior outlets. GFCI outlets or circuits provide a high level of safety against shock. A tiny imbalance in the power and neutral lines will trip a GFCI meaning that the electric is instantly shut off. The imbalance indicates potential current leakage that could deliver a shock.
Some baths may have non-GFCI outlets which are protected by a GFCI outlet in a remote area (garage, another bath, etc.). 
Electricity requires at least 2 wires: it pushes through the live or positive wire (usually black in color) and returns through the neutral wire (usually white in color). This is why all electrical devices have plugs with at least two prongs. Modern systems add a third (ground) wire for safety.
Also, note that most electricians agree that smoke detectors are good for about 5 years, and the breakers in your panel box have an expected life of about 20 years.  Therefore, if this home was built before 1991, consider having the panel box and breakers evaluated by a licensed electrician, as an overheated breaker can result in a structural fire.  
If your home does not have a carbon monoxide detector, it is now required to have them in New York State, we recommend making that investment.

41) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The gas meter was located where it is subject to damage from vehicles. This is a safety hazard. A qualified contractor should install barriers as per standard building practices.

42) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The gas meter was located too close to other objects and has substandard workspace. Standard building practices require that a minimum clear area of 3 feet exist around the meter, except for behind it. A qualified person and/or the gas utility company should evaluate and repair as necessary, and as per standard building practices.

43) Safety, Repair/Replace, Evaluate - One or more sections of gas supply pipes were loose or had substandard support. Standard building practices require that gas supply piping be supported by clamps as follows:

• Every six feet for two inch pipe
• Every eight feet for 3/4 inch pipe
• Every 10 feet for 1 1/4 inch pipe

A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary, and as per standard building practices.

44) Safety, Comment - Copper water supply pipes in buildings built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions such as these may be advised:

• Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
• Install appropriate filters at points of use.
• Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
• Use bottled or distilled water.
• Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
• Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary.

For more information visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5056.html
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html

45) Repair/Replace - One or more outside faucets were not the "frost-free" design, and are more likely to freeze during cold weather. Recommend having a qualified plumber upgrade these with frost-free faucets to prevent freezing and pipes bursting.

46) - Plumbing is an important concern in any structure. Moisture in the air and leaks can cause mildew, wallpaper and paint to peel, and other problems. We have tried to identify as many issues as possible but some problems may be undetectable due to problems within the walls or under the flooring.

Note that in some locations, sewer service and/or water service might be provided by private waste disposal system (cesspool). Inspection, testing, analysis, or opinion of condition and function of private waste disposal systems and wells is not within the scope of a home inspection. Recommend consulting with seller concerning private systems and inspection, if present, by appropriate licensed professional familiar with such private systems. If a Septic System is on the property, pumping is generally recommended prior to purchase, and then every three years.

47) Evaluate, Monitor, Comment - The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years. The inspector was unable to determine the age of the water heater. The client should be aware that this water heater may be near, at, or beyond its useful life and may need replacing at any time. Recommend attempting to determine the water heater's age, and budgeting for a replacement if necessary.

48) - A water heating system for drinking and bathing water can come in many shapes and sizes. The most conventional type of water heating system is the stand alone type that includes its own tank and heating system. This type of system can use either oil, natural gas, propane or electric to heat water.

Another type of water heating system found is a tankless system where the water is heated through the heating system, in most cases this heating system is a hot water or hydronic heating system. One drawback to this type of system is that if the home needs a large amount of hot water at a specific time this system may not be able to keep up with the demand.

There are also other combination systems available, for example; there is a system available where the water is heated through the heating system but stored in a separate tank.

49) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The following conditions were noted with the steam boiler: excessive variation in water level. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

50) Repair/Replace - All distribution pipes in the basement were uninsulated. A qualified person should install insulation in unconditioned spaces as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency.

51) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - The last service date of this system appeared to be more than one year ago, or the inspector was unable to determine the last service date. The client should ask the property owner when it was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified contractor should service this system and make repairs if necessary. This servicing should be performed annually in the future.

52) Evaluate, Comment - No Data on last service date

53) Evaluate, Comment - This heating system used hydronic and/or steam heat. It is a specialty system, and only a limited evaluation was performed during the inspection. Recommend a full evaluation by a qualified specialist.

54) - The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning/cooling system (often referred to as HVAC) is the climate control system for the structure. The goal of these systems is to keep the occupants at a comfortable level while maintaining indoor air quality, ventilation while keeping maintenance costs at a minimum. The HVAC system is usually powered by electricity and/or natural gas, but can also be powered by other sources such as butane, oil, propane, solar panels, or wood.

Most homes are heated with either a warm air furnace that uses ducts and ceiling/wall registers or a hydronic (warm water) system that uses radiators, baseboard (convector) elements, or heating pipes buried in walls or floors.

55) Repair/Maintain, Monitor - There was a dry water stain located below the kitchen skylight that should be monitored.

56) - The kitchen is used for food preparation and often for entertainment. Kitchens typically include a stove, dishwasher, sink and other appliances. We try to test all appliances but in some cases (dishes in the dishwasher, food in the oven, etc.) we are not able to.
We test the cabinets to make sure they operate correctly as well as note the condition of the counter top. We check for plumbing leaks in the sink as well as dishwasher. The electric outlets near the sink should all have a GFCI circuit.

57) Repair/Replace - The bathtub drain stopper mechanism at location #B was loose and/or difficult to operate. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.

58) Repair/Maintain - The caulk between the wall corner at location #B was deteriorated. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

59) Repair/Maintain - Caulk around the tub's plumbing fixtures (faucets, spouts, escutcheon plates, etc.) at location #B was missing. A qualified person should repair as necessary.

60) - Bathrooms can consist of many features from jacuzzi tubs and showers to toilets and bidets. Because of all the plumbing involved it is an important area of the house to look over. All bathrooms should have an exhaust fan, even if they have a window. If moisture is not removed from the air it can cause mildew, wallpaper and paint to peel, and other problems. All outlets in a bathroom should have a GFCI circuit to prevent shocks. All grout and caulking should always be monitored for cracks and resealing. Plumbing leaks can be both visible, as you will find underneath a sink, or not visible as you may discover in a wall behind a tub or shower faucet or drain. Always monitor for leaks. We have tried to identify as many issues as possible but some problems may be undetectable due to problems within the walls or under the flooring.
In a laundry we test the washer and dryer during operation. We are looking to see that all plumbing and drainage lines are leak free. We also examine the dryer exhaust/vent that should be a smooth metal type to avoid lent buildup. Again the outlet circuits should be GFCI rated.

61) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Significant cracks were found in some ceiling areas. This may be a structural concern, or an indication that settlement is ongoing. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

62) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were loose. This is a safety hazard. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary and as per standard building practices.

63) - The structural frame of the home rests on the foundation walls and holds up the floors, interior walls, and roof. Most homes in the US are framed with wood, but a few are built with a brick or block support. Recently homes are starting to be framed with metal. Once the frame and structure are properly designed and installed, little maintenance is needed except to protect the structure from water and insects.

The exterior walls are framed to support the structure, allow for window and door openings, and protect the structure from the elements. Most exterior walls are framed with 2 by 4 studs spaced 16 inches on center. The studs are braced in the corners and doubled around window and door openings. Special "headers" are placed over openings to support the weight above the opening. Exterior wall framing allows space for electrical, cable, telephone, heat distribution components and plumbing supply and waste lines. The framing also supports exterior siding or cladding and includes space for insulation.

Interior areas consist of bedrooms, baths, kitchen, laundry, hallways, foyer, and other open areas.   All exposed walls, ceilings and floors will be inspected.  Doors and windows will also be investigated for damage and normal operation. Although excluded from inspection requirements, we will inform you of obvious broken gas seals in windows.  Please realize that they are not always visible, due to temperature, humidity, window coverings, light source, etc. Your inspection will report visible damage, wear and tear, and moisture problems if seen. Personal items in the structure may prevent the inspector from viewing all areas, as the inspector will not move personal items.

An inspection does not include the identification of, or research for, appliances and other items that may have been recalled or have had a consumer safety alert issued about it. Any comments made in the report are regarding well known notices and are provided as a courtesy only. Product recalls and consumer product safety alerts are added almost daily by the Consumer Product Safety Commission. We recommend visiting the following Internet site if recalls are a concern to you: http://www.cpsc.gov.