Urie Home Inspection

Website: http://www.reporthost.com/urie
Company email: UrieHomeInspection@gmail.com
Inspector's email: richurie@gmail.com
Phone: (360) 204-8386
26965 Border Way NE 
Kingston WA 98346-9477
Inspector: Richard Urie

 

Property Inspection Report
Client(s): John Doe
Property address: 1234 Happy Lane
Pleasant Valley, WA 98225
Inspection date: 4/1/2011
This report published on Saturday, September 10, 2011 7:57:40 PM PDT

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This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.

 
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
SafetyPoses a risk of injury or death 
Major DefectCorrection likely involves a significant expense 
Repair/ReplaceRecommend repairing or replacing 
Repair/MaintainRecommend repair and/or maintenance 
Minor DefectCorrection likely involves only a minor expense 
MaintainRecommend ongoing maintenance 
EvaluateRecommend evaluation by a specialist 
CommentFor your information 

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

Table of Contents
General information
Exterior
Roof
Garage
Attic
Electric service
Water heater
Heating and cooling
Plumbing and laundry
Crawl space
Kitchen
Bathrooms
Interior rooms
 
General information Return to table of contents
Inspector's name: Richard Urie
Structures inspected: Residential
Type of building: Single family
Age of building: 1991
Property owner's name: Rob Costello
Time started: 8:30 AM
Time finished: 1:00 PM
Present during inspection: Property owner(s)
Occupied: Yes
Weather conditions: Cloudy, Rain
Temperature: Cold
Ground condition: Wet
Front of structure faces: West
Main entrance faces: West
Foundation type: Crawlspace
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Private sewage disposal system, Security system, Irrigation system, Swimming pool, Hot tub, Private well, Shed, Playground equipment, Sauna, Low voltage outdoor lighting, Central vacuum system, Water filtration system, Water softener system, Built-in sound system, Intercom system, Generator system, Sport court, Sea wall, Outbuildings
1) There are many walls and floor surfaces that are obscured by furniture. They couldn't be evaluated.

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Exterior Return to table of contents
Footing material: Poured in place concrete
Foundation material: Poured in place concrete
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Wall covering: T111
Driveway material: Gravel
Sidewalk material: Poured in place concrete aggregate
Exterior door material: Solid core steel
2) Guardrails are loose on the entry deck. This is a safety hazard. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as installing new fasteners or hardware, installing additional fasteners and/or installing additional railing components as necessary so they are securely attached.
3) Anti -siphon was not required when the the structure was built. I would recommend upgrading to anti-siphon. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing backflow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed. For more information, visit:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE113

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4) The exterior finish over the entire structure is failing. A qualified painting contractor should prep (scrape, sand, prime caulk, etc.) and repaint or restain the entire structure as per standard building practices.

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5) The siding above the crawlspace entry is starting to deteriorate. There are also nails popping in the siding on the south side of the structure. I recommend a qualified contractor should make repairs or replace siding as necessary to prevent water and vermin intrusion.
6) The light fixture on the north side of the structure are beyond their service life. I recommend a qualified electrician should evaluate and replace light fixtures where necessary.

Photo 8  
 

7) One of the downspouts is missing on the NW corner of the structure. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. A qualified contractor should install downspout where missing. Also recommend installing extensions such as splashblocks or tie-ins to underground drain lines as necessary to carry rainwater away from the house.

Photo 10  
 

8) The gutter on the south side of the garage is not complete. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. A qualified contractor should install gutter whare missing.
9) The gutters on the north side and south side of the garage were leaking, and rusted and look to be in need of replacement. I recommend a qualified contractor should replace or repair gutters where necessary.

Photo 9  

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10) There was a minor crack found in the foundation on the south side of the structure. The crack is 1/8 of an inch or less. It doesn't appear to be a structure concern. I recommend sealing it to prevent water infiltration and monitoring it in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including:
  • Hydraulic cement. Requires chiseling a channel in the crack to apply.
  • Resilient caulks (easy to apply).
  • Epoxy sealants (both a waterproof and structural repair).

    Photo 3  
     

    11) Soil is in contact with the siding on the front of the garage, also on the south side of the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Soil should be graded or removed as necessary so there are at least six inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil below.

    Photo 5  

    Photo 13  

    12) Vegetation is in contact with the structure on the NW side. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.

    Photo 11  
     

    13) The ends of the barge boards are close to the start of rotting.They need repainting and the gutters to be repaired or replaced.

    Photo 22  
     

    14) There were minor cracks found on the sidewalk to the entry of the structure. However they don't appear to be a structural concern and no trip hazards were found. No immediate action is recommended, but the client may wish to have repairs made or have cracked sections replaced for aesthetic reasons.

    Photo 2  
     

    15) One of the downspouts terminate above roof surfaces rather than being routed to gutters below or to the ground level. This is very common, but it can reduce the life of roof surface materials below due to large amounts of water frequently flowing over the roof surface. Granules typically are washed off of composition shingles as a result, and leaks may occur. Recommend considering having a qualified contractor install extensions as necessary so downspouts don't terminate above roof surfaces.

    Photo 20  
     

    16) The substructure of the deck is excluded from the inspection due to limited access because of the low height.
    17)   The bellyband on the SE side of the structure is starting to rot. On the NE side of the structure, the bellyband is in contact with the roof. All wood should be at least 1 inch above the surface of the roof. I recommend replacement and repairs by a qualified contractor, also while on site to determine if Z metal flashing is installed where the siding butts together on that section of the structure.

    Photo 17  
     

    18)   There is scrap lumber leaning up against the structure on the east side. I recommend not stacking lumber or firewood against the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying organisms.

    Photo 16  
     

    19)   There is no cover plate on the junction box for the phone line. Water or rodents could damage the lines. Recommend cover plate.

    Photo 7  
     
     
    Roof Return to table of contents
    Roof inspection method: Traversed the lower section viewed the upper from a ladder
    Roof type: Gable
    Roof covering: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
    Estimated age of roof: 5-10 years
    Gutter & downspout material: Steel
    Roof ventilation: Adequate
    20) The flashing on the SE side of the roof is substandard. This may result in leaks. A qualified roofing contractor should make repair as necessary.

    Photo 15  
     

    21) Debris has accumulated in all of the gutters. There is also standing water in the gutters on the front of the house. This is from being full of debris or not sloped properly. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects since gutters may overflow and cause water to come in contact with the structure's exterior or make water accumulate around the foundation. I recommend while gutter contractor is on site to make sure all gutters slope properly. Gutters should be cleaned now and as necessary in the future.

    Photo 14  

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    Garage Return to table of contents

    22) None of the garage electric receptacles appear to have ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all garage receptacles, except for one for use with a refrigerator or freezer, have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
    23) The garage vehicle door is wood and weathered with water stains. There is no sign of water intrusion. No significant repairs appear to be needed. Exterior surfaces should be maintained with paint, stain or finish as necessary.
    24) The interior perimeter of the garage is excluded from this inspection due to lack of access from stored items.
     
    Attic Return to table of contents
    Inspection method: Viewed from hatch
    Roof structure type: Trusses
    Ceiling structure: Trusses
    Insulation material: Fiberglass loose fill
    Insulation depth: 7 inches
    25) The bathroom fan appears to have no ducting and is terminating in the attic. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in the attic from the exhaust air. A qualified contractor should install duct and vent cap as necessary and as per standard building practices so exhaust air is vented outside. Better building practices call for R8 rated insulation on these ducts.
    26) No weatherstrip is installed around the attic access hatch. Weatherstrip should be installed around the hatch to prevent heated interior air from entering attic.
    27)   The attic was viewed form the hatch due to limited height. So I was not able to inspect all of the roof structure, see if there are leaks, check to see if insulated properly, signs of rodent, if all electrical wiring is correct.
     
    Electric service Return to table of contents
    Primary service type: Overhead
    Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
    Service amperage (amps): 100-150
    Location of main disconnect: Top bank of breakers in main service panel (split bus)
    Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
    System ground: Ground rod(s) in soil
    Branch circuit wiring type: Copper
    Smoke detectors present: Yes, one
    28) The service drop wires are in contact with the tree in the neighbors yard. Recommend having a qualified tree service company or arborist prune tree as necessary to prevent straining or abrading the service drop wires.

    Photo 18  
     
     
    Water heater Return to table of contents
    Estimated age: 3 years
    Type: Tank
    Energy source: Electricity
    Capacity (in gallons): 55
    Manufacturer: Kenmore
    Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 125
    29) The temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed upwards. This drain line should be routed either down or horizontally. This is a safety hazard as water may not be able to flow through the drain line adequately when the valve releases due to accumulated water. Also, accumulated water may corrode the valve and prevent it from working. A qualified plumber should make repair so the drain line is routed down or horizontally, but not up. For more information, visit:
    Water Heater Rescue - Down and Out

    Photo 24  
     

    30) The water heater does not have seismic straps or struts installed. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause damage to wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should install seismic straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.

    Photo 25  
     

    31) The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
    http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5098.html

    32) A water heater is installed over finished living spaces and has no catch pan and drain installed. Recommend having a qualified contractor install a catch pan and drain to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if/when the water heater develops a leak or is drained.
     
    Heating and cooling Return to table of contents
    Primary heat system type: Baseboard
    33) The baseboard heaters were tested during the inspection and were operable
     
    Plumbing and laundry Return to table of contents
    Water pressure (psi): 80
    Location of main water meter: Curb front of the house
    Water service: Public
    Service pipe material: Copper
    Supply pipe material: Copper
    Vent pipe material: Plastic
    Drain pipe material: Plastic
    Waste pipe material: Plastic
    34) No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection device is visible for the sump pump electric supply. A qualified electrician should determine if a GFCI protection device (receptacle or circuit breaker) exists for the sump pump and install one if missing to reduce the danger of electric shock.
    35) The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information, visit:
    http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

    36) The clothes dryer vent on the south side of the structure is clogged . That can be hard on the dryer motor. This is also safety hazard due to the risk of fire from decreased air flow. The dryer vent should be cleaned now and annually, or more often if necessary in the future.
    37) The water supply pressure is greater than 80 psi. Pressures above 80 psi may void warranties for some appliances such as water heaters or washing machines. Flexible supply lines to washing machines are more likely to burst with higher pressures. Typically the pressure cannot be regulated at the water meter. Recommend having a qualified plumber make modifications to reduce the pressure below 80 psi. Installing a pressure reducing valve on the main service pipe is a common solution to this problem. If one exists, then it should be adjusted for lower pressures.
    38) The sump pump's power supply appears to be from a lamp cord. Sump pumps should be on a dedicated circuit so it doesn't stop working when other equipment malfunctions. A qualified electrician should make repairs as necessary.
    39) The inspector was not able to find the main water shut-off valve. The client should consult with the property owner to determine if a shut-off valve exists, find it themselves, or hire a qualified plumber if necessary to find it. If no shut-off valve is found for the structure, then recommend having a qualified plumber install one to more easily allow the water supply to be turned off in the event of an emergency, such as when a supply pipe bursts.
    40) Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.
    41) A sump pump is installed on the premises. This may indicate that water accumulates inside or below the structure. Recommend asking the property owners how often the sump pump operates and for how long at different times of the year. Also, the clients should be aware that the service life of most sump pumps is between five and seven years, and that the pump may need replacing soon depending on its age and how much it operates.
     
    Crawl space Return to table of contents
    Inspection method: Traversed
    Insulation material underneath floor above: Fiberglass roll or batt
    Pier or support post material: Wood
    Beam material: Solid wood
    Floor structure above: Solid wood joists
    Vapor barrier present: Yes
    42) Standing water was found in the crawl space. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. A qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should make repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:

  • Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
  • Improving perimeter grading
  • Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains

    Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, drains and/or sump pump(s) in the crawl space.

    Photo 34  
     

    43) A floor joist on the north side of the crawlspace has been cut for the toilet. It is now unsupported and needs to be headed off. I recommend a qualified contractor to make repairs.
    44) There is some insulation missing in the crawl space on the west side. I recommend that a qualified contractor install R19 or better (6" thick fiberglass batt) insulation below floor where missing for energy efficiency.
    45) There are some areas where the water supply pipes are uninsulated. I recommend repairing or installing insulation on water pipes where necessary for better energy efficiency and to prevent water pipes from freezing.

    Photo 35  
     

    46) The crawl space entry is constructed out of nontreated lumber and is beginning to rot. I recommend a qualified contractor replace with treated lumber.

    Photo 33  
     

    47) Paper or cardboard forms have been left on the concrete pier footings. These should be removed to avoid attracting wood destroying insects.
    48) Cellulose-based debris such as wood scraps, form wood, cardboard and/or paper were found in crawl space. All cellulose-based debris should be removed to avoid attracting wood destroying insects.
     
    Kitchen Return to table of contents

    49) There are no electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink that have a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
    50) The under-sink food disposal is noisy. A qualified plumber or contractor should make repair or replace the food disposal as necessary.
    51) There appears to be some kind of growth starting where the backsplash and countertop meet behind the sink in the kitchen. I recommend a cleaning with a good cleaning product
     
    Bathrooms Return to table of contents

    52) The sink in the down stairs bathroom is clogged or drains slowly. Drain should be cleared as necessary, and by a qualified plumber if necessary.
    53) Caulk is missing and deteriorated along the base of the bathtub /shower upstairs, where flooring meets the tub. There is a high moisture reading on the floor in front of the bathtub. I could not tell if the subfloor is damaged. I recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

    Photo 28  
     

    54) Caulk is missing or deteriorated around the base of the toilet. In the downstairs bathroom. It should be replaced where deteriorated or applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to the floor structure.
    55) GFCI in downstairs bathroom protects the upstairs bathroom.
     
    Interior rooms Return to table of contents

    56) Most of the electric baseboard heaters are installed with an electric receptacle located above. Insulation on appliance cords in contact with the heaters may be damaged by the heat. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should make repairs as necessary. For example, converting receptacles to junction boxes, moving receptacles, installing a coverplate or moving baseboard heaters.
    57) An insufficient number of smoke alarms are installed and the existing smoke alarm looks to be more than 10 years old. Aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source of nuisance alarms.(www.nfpa.org) Additional smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
    58) The windows in both of the upstairs bedrooms have inadequate egress in the event of a fire due to the fact that they are too high from the floor. Bedroom windows should have a maximum sill height of 44 inches from the floor. At a minimum furniture such as a chair should be located immediately below the window to improve egress. Ideally modifications should be made as necessary, such as moving or replacing windows to comply with these recommendations. For more information, visit:
    http://www.google.com/search?q=bedroom+window+fire+egress

    Photo 26  
     

    59) The baseboard heater is loose in the downstairs room on the NW side. This is a safety hazard. I recommend a qualified electrician make repairs. Also the hand rail on the stairs has no return to the wall. This is a safety hazard, things like clothing may get caught and you could fall down the stairs. I recommend while contractor on site to make repairs.

    Photo 30  
     

    60) The doorbell appears to be inoperable. Recommend having a qualified electrician make repair as necessary.
    61) The humidity was very high in the kids bedroom. There was moisture on the ceiling above the window. This could be from a roof leak. The moss on the roof above this section of the house is very heavy . A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

    Photo 29  
     

    62) Seals between double-pane glass in window in the front room on the north side of the structure appear to have failed based on condensation or stains between the panes of glass. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace glass where necessary.

    The client should be aware that evidence of broken seals may be more or less visible from one day to the next depending on the temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc. Windows or glass doors other than those that the inspector identified may also have failed seals and need glass replaced too.

    Photo 32  
     

    63) The front entry door is missing the deadbolt. This can be a security hazard. I recommend a deadbolt be installed and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
    64) The light fixture in the kids bedroom upstairs appears to be inoperable. Recommend further evaluation by replacing bulb or consulting with the property owner. Repairs or replacement of the light fixture by a qualified electrician may be necessary.
    65) Could not access exterior door on the north side of the kitchen. I recommend making accessible.

    Photo 27  
     

     
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