Strictly Business Home Inspections

	Safety	Can cause injury or death if the problem is not corrected
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Repair/Maintain	Recommend repair and/or maintenance
	Minor defect	Correction likely involves only a minor expense
	Maintain	Recommend maintenance on a regular schedule as noted
	Evaluate	Recommend evaluation by a specialist
	Monitor	Items indicated as Monitor should be checked periodically or as indicated to prevent serious problems from developing
	Serviceable	Item or component is in satisfactory condition, and was working when tested
	Comment	For your information

Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Items marked with the following icons relate to the structural pest inspection

	Infestation	Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.)
	Damage	Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.)
	Conducive conditions	Conducive conditions for wood destroying insects or organisms. (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

Table of Contents
General information
Wood Destroying Insects
Exterior
Roof
Attached garage
Electric service
Water heater
Heating and air conditioning
Attic
Plumbing and laundry
Basement
Interior rooms

		1) Evidence of a prior or current termite infestation was visible on the left part of the rear concrete foundation wall, the left side foundation wall, and right side foundation of the house in the form of termite mud tubes leading up under the siding of the house. There was evidence visible of prior treatment for termites on the right and left concrete foundation walls. Recommend that the present owners be questioned regarding this and any information they can provide relating to termite and/or carpenter ant infestations. If they are unable to provide any information and/or inspection/treatment contracts they may have had with pest control companies in the past, it is recommended that a pest control company be hired to inspect for and treat for termite and carpenter ant infestation around the entire perimeter of the house, and under the siding where previous infestations have taken place. Photo 27   Photo 30   Photo 82
		2) The sill plate of the house was not visible and could therefore not be inspected due to the presence of walls and dropped ceiling in the basement of the house.

		3) The railings on the deck are loose. This is a safety hazard. These railings must be repaired / replaced so that they are securely fastened to the deck, and to the wall of the house. Photo 66   Photo 76
		4) The concrete at the bottom of the front steps to the house where the steps meet the path is cracked and broken. Recommend this be repaired. Photo 68   Photo 69
		5) Vegetation (trees, shrubs and/or vines) are in contact with building exterior. Recommend pruning or removing vegetation as necessary so there's at least a two foot gap between all vegetation and the building exterior. This gap should exist to allow exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and to eliminate pathways to the structure for wood destroying insects. There is one tree at the left front corner of the house which may be too close to the foundation and may create problems in this area some years in the future. Recommend that you consult with a landscaper to determine the nature of this tree and it's likelihood to grow extensive roots that may damage the foundation. Photo 71
		6) Soil is in contact with or less than 6" from siding and/or trim. Recommend grading soil so there's at least 6" of space between the siding and trim and the soil below. Photo 28
		7) All downspouts carrying water from the rain gutters on this house drain through pipes into the sump pump in the basement where they are pumped out to the township sewer system. Recommend that these pipes be inspected and cleaned every 5 years or if any of the downspouts are seen to be overflowing onto the grass at the side of the house. Photo 29   Photo 72
		8) Recommend cleaning deck and treating with a waterproof sealant claiming to waterproof, block ultraviolet light, and stop mildew. This should be done every 2 to 3 years as necessary. Consumer Reports recommends these products: Cabot Decking Stain and PTW Stain Olympic Water Repellent Deck Stain Thompson's House and Deck Stain Wolman PTW Deck Stain Akzo Sikkens Cetol DEK Benjamin Moore Moorwood Clear Wood Finish DAP Woodlife Premium Olympic Natural Look Protector Plus Photo 76
		9) One outside faucet in the front of the house is a weather-proof faucet which should not have to be "turned off" from inside the house during the winter. The outside faucet on the rear of the house will need to be turned off from inside the house to avoid the chance of freezing winter-time temperatures causing the faucet or pipe it is connected to freezing and bursting.
		10) Siding on this house is vinyl siding. The siding was applied level with the front of the house, and continuing horizontally along the left and right side walls. This exposes a large portion of the concrete foundation walls. While it is less preferable than having the siding be a uniform height above the ground (following the hill down the left and right side rather than remain horizontal and get farther away from the ground as it goes towards the rear), this is not a harmful or dangerous condition. In the rear, the siding is applied right down to the ground. This is unavoidable for the walk-out basement design of this house, however it is a condition conducive to termite and carpenter ant infestation. It is therefore recommended that once the recommendation in the Wood Destroying Insect section is followed, the "contract" with the pest control company that will be hired to inspect and treat the house for termites and carpenter ants be maintained, and follow-up inspections be conducted every one or two years as recommended by the pest control company. Photo 28   Photo 30   Photo 74   Photo 76   Photo 82
		11) Rain gutters should be cleaned every 2 years or as necessary. One rain gutter appears to be overflowing (see streak down the side of the house next to the rain gutter), and may be clogged. Photo 75
		12) There is a sliding patio door at the rear of the basement (this house has a "walk-out" basement). The door and 2 windows (in the basement room containing the door) were tested. They all operate satisfactorily and their locks work. Photo 28
		13) The driveway is concrete, and is in good condition. Photo 41
		14) All exterior outlets were tested,(one in the front of the house and one at the rear of the house) and are in waterproof housings and are GFCI protected. These do not have "their own" GFCI outlets, but are wired through the GFCI outlet in the garage.
		15) All windows in the house except for the kitchen windows are thermal tempered double-sheet glass in vinyl window frames. These windows "tilt in" for easier cleaning. All these windows, as well as the lock mechanisms, were tested and all work satisfactorily. The kitchen windows are crank-open windows. These were tested, as well as the lock mechanisms, and work satisfactorily. The basement and rear of the dining room have sliding glass doors made of the same type of (double sheet thermal tempered) glass as the windows. These were tested, as well as the lock mechanisms, and work satisfactorily Photo 28

16) The roof was inspected from the ground, and from the 2nd floor windows that overlook the section of roof over the front entrance of the house. The roof was also inspected from underneath in the attic. The roof appears to be in good condition, with no evidence of leakage or structural problems. The roof was built with end vents in the attic gable walls, soffit vents in the roof overhangs, and ridge vents at the top of each roof section. These provide adequate ventilation for the roof, and are in good condition. Photo 70

		17) Garage-house door isn't auto-closing. Recommend installing hinges with springs or an automatic door closing device so door closes and latches automatically to prevent vehicle fumes from entering building.
		18) The garage is a 2 car attached garage at the right side of the house, and occupies the right side of the first floor. The door is a single aluminum panel double-width door with one motor and track for opening and closing the door. The garage door was tested and works satisfactorily with all safety features (auto reverse by means of the photocell, and by means of pressure resistance sensing) operating satisfactorily. Photo 39   Photo 40   Photo 41
		19) The garage has one electric outlet which is a GFCI protected outlet. This GFCI outlet has the front and rear exterior outlets wired to it. This was tested and works satisfactorily.
		20) The main electric service panel is located in the garage at the front of the right side wall. This was inspected and is in good condition. See Electrical section. Photo 42   Photo 43

		21) One of the electric outlets mounted into the "island" in the kitchen is connected using BX armored cable, however the armored cable is not fastened or secured to the outlet's utility box. This causes a potential grounding problem, and other safety issues. Recommend an electrician be hired to repair this outlet so that the properly armored cable is secured to the metal outlet box. Photo 36   Photo 37
		22) One electric outlet in the basement near the sliding door to the rear was tested and found to have an open neutral. This is a safety issue, and must be repaired, however the repair is simple and inexpensive. Photo 7
		23) With one exception (noted elsewhere) all electric outlets were tested and were wired correctly. All outlets that are required to be GFCI protected were GFCI protected, including all but one outlet in the basement, all outlets near water in kitchens and bathrooms, and all outdoor outlets. Some outlets that were not required to be GFCI protected were GFCI protected anyway.
		24) Main Service Panel Photo 42   Photo 43
		25) Subpanel Photo 9   Photo 10   Photo 11
		26) The main panel, and the main service is a 200 amp service. The sub-panel in the basement is a 60 amp sub-panel and services the entire basement. Both panels were inspected and are in good condition.

		27) Water heater has no catch pan and drain installed. Recommend having a qualified contractor install a catch pan and drain to prevent water damage if/when the water heater develops a leak or is drained.
		28) The estimated useful life for water heaters is 8 to 12 years. This water heater is 4 years old, and should reach it's expected useful life if it is properly maintained. Recommend that a service technician be hired to clean and adjust the hot water heater, and the forced hot air furnace now, and every 2 years to maintain these appliances in good working order, and to assure that they are working efficiently so as to produce the lowest possible energy bills in normal operation. Photo 17   Photo 18   Photo 19
		29) The hot water heater was inspected, and is in good condition at this point.

		30) Filters for this forced hot air heating system are located at the bottom of the return line where it enters the bottom of the furnace. The filter that is presently installed is dirty, and has "collapsed" and is no longer effectively filtering the air going through the furnace. Recommend this filter be removed, and replaced with a new filter in a manner that it stays in position, and does not also "collapse" with the force of the air blowing through the system. This may require the services of an HVAC contractor. Photo 15   Photo 16
		31) Last service date of this system is more than two years ago or is unable to be determined. Recommend asking seller when it was last serviced. If unable to determine or if more than two years ago, recommend that this system be inspected, cleaned, serviced and repaired if necessary by a qualified heating and cooling technician. Recommend that this servicing be made every two years in the future.
		32) This system is equipped with throw-away filter(s). They appear to be dirty. Recommend replacing filter(s) now and every 2 months in the future if the thermostat's fan position is set to "Auto", or monthly if it's set to "On". Photo 15   Photo 16
		33) The estimated useful life for forced air furnaces is 15 to 20 years. This forced air furnace is 4 years old, and should reach it's expected useful life if it is properly maintained. Recommend that an HVAC service technician be hired to clean and adjust the forced hot air furnace and the hot water heater, now, and every 2 years to maintain these appliances in good working order, and to assure that they are working efficiently so as to produce the lowest possible energy bills in normal operation. Photo 17   Photo 18   Photo 19
		34) The heating system, and the air conditioning system were both tested, and worked satisfactorily. Photo 18   Photo 77   Photo 79

		35) Attic Photo 55   Photo 56   Photo 57   Photo 58   Photo 59   Photo 60   Photo 61   Photo 62
		36) The attic is accessed through a hatch in the ceiling of the left front room on the second floor.

		37) The basement bathroom has a tank and ejector pump system to remove waste and pump it up to a waste line. This mechanism was inspected and appears to be in good condition, with the following exception: When the tank fills to the point that the pump operates, the pipe carrying the waste up to the sewer waste line shakes. Over an extended period of time (several years), this could result in the weakening and eventual failure of this pipe and/or other pipes and fittings it is connected to. Recommend that this pipe be braced in a manner that prevents it from shaking when the pump operates. Photo 12
		38) Washing machine is installed over finished living space and has no catch pan and drain installed. Recommend having a qualified contractor install a catch pan and drain to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if/when the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained.
		39) The sink in the basement bathroom drains slowly. Recommend a product such as Drano be tried in order to unclog the drain line. If this fails, it may be necessary to hire a handy-man or plumber to un-clog the drain. Photo 25
		40) It is recommended to "winterize" outdoor hose connections by shutting off valves in the water lines leading to them, and draining the connections (prior to freezing winter temperatures), in order to prevent the pipes from possibly freezing and breaking.
		41) The water meter and main water shut-off valve are in the basement at the front wall on the right side of the house. These were inspected and are in good condition. Photo 21
		42) The shut-off valve for the laundry hose fittings is a one-handle push-pull mechanism, rather than a "turn-the-handle" or "turn the valve" mechanism. The handle is located between the hot and cold water spigots that the washer hoses connect to. This was tested and works satisfactorily. Photo 38
		43) Plumbing for the basement bathroom tub is accessible from the utility area of the basement. No access ports were provided for the guest bathroom tub. Limited access is available to the tub in the master bathroom. No access is provided to the plumbing behind the stall shower. Should it become necessary to service the plumbing in the guest bathroom tub, or the stall shower, it may be necessary to remove some tiles. Photo 13   Photo 14   Photo 47   Photo 48   Photo 51
		44) There is a Kenmore 70 series gas powered clothes dryer, and a Kenmore 80 series clothes washer. These were tested and work satisfactorily.
		45) Gas meter and main gas shut-off. Photo 73

		46) One open neutral electric outlet was noted. See recommendation in Electrical section. Photo 7
		47) The utilities area is separated from the finished basement area by a wall with a door. The utilities area has the gas fired furnace and ductwork (air returns, filter, gas, electric, and A/C lines), the tank and ejector pump for the basement bathroom, the hot water heater, the water meter and main shut-off valve, and the sewer line connection. The main gas service enters the house through the right side wall into this area as well. These utilities were inspected and are in good condition except as noted (see recommendations in the Heat and A/C section, and the Hot Water Heater section). Photo 12   Photo 17   Photo 18
		48) There is no heat source to heat the 3 basement rooms and the bathroom in the basement. Recommend that if these rooms are to be used in the wintertime, an HVAC contractor be hired to install air ducts and vents as necessary in the various rooms. If this is not done, then it is recommended that a small electric heater be installed in the basement bathroom to keep this room above freezing so that no water pipes freeze.
		49) In the left front corner of the basement, there is a sump and sump pump. The cover of this pump has a slot cut out for the pipe. Water enters this sump from the downspouts coming from the rain gutters, and has partially clogged and blocked the pipes that carry it. Recommend these pipes be cleaned out and the sump cleaned out every 2 years or as necessary. Recommend the cover over this sump be removed and the sump inspected annually. The brown stain in the corner of the wall next to the sump is caused by splash and spray coming through the slot in the plastic sump cover, and is not due to any leakage through the wall. Photo 5   Photo 6
		50) The basement is divided into a utilities area and a "finished basement" area with 3 rooms and a full bathroom. The bathroom is tiled, and the other rooms are carpeted. All rooms have a dropped ceiling. There are 2 air vents mounted in the wall between the 2 areas that are intended to provide air for the furnace and hot water heater. There is a sliding door to the back yard from one of the rooms, and 2 windows facing the back yard in another of the rooms. It was noted that only 2 doors in the basement have door-knobs. This is not a problem as such, however you may wish to consider installing door-knobs and latches if you wish to be able to close and latch any of the affected doors. These were all inspected and are all in good condition. Photo 7   Photo 8   Photo 22   Photo 23   Photo 24   Photo 25   Photo 26   Photo 28

		51) Kitchen Photo 34   Photo 35
		52) The hand-rail on the stairs from the first floor to the basement is loose, and was poorly installed. Recommend it be removed, the brackets that hold it be relocated to areas where there are wall studs, and it be re-installed securely. Photo 31   Photo 32   Photo 33
		53) This is a 5 bedroom house with 3 rooms and a full bath in the finished basement, 4 rooms on the first floor in addition to the kitchen and a half bath, and 5 bedrooms with a master bath and guest (full) bath on the 2nd floor. There is a small deck at the right rear of the house off the dining room on the first floor. See recommendations concerning this deck in the Exterior section. There is no heat source in the 3 rooms and full bath in the basement. See recommendations concerning this in the Basement section. There is an access hatch to the attic in the ceiling of the left front bedroom. Except for the specific items noted in the report, there were no problems noted with any of the rooms listed above.
		54) The "island" installed in the kitchen is not secured to the floor, and moves if it is pushed hard enough. Recommend that this "island" be secured to the floor by drilling holes in the floor beneath it and fastening it to the floor securely. Photo 37
		55) The door on the bedroom at the left front of the house on the 2nd floor is damaged, and should be replaced. Photo 63   Photo 64
		56) The kitchen, laundry room, and bath on the first floor have tile floors. All other rooms on the first floor have cherry hardwood floors which are in good condition. All rooms on the second floor except the bathrooms are carpeted.
		57) Rooms on the first floor Photo 1   Photo 2   Photo 3   Photo 4   Photo 45   Photo 65
		58) Laundry Photo 38
		59) Bathrooms Photo 44   Photo 46   Photo 47   Photo 48   Photo 49   Photo 50   Photo 51
		60) Rooms on the 2nd floor Photo 52   Photo 53   Photo 54   Photo 63   Photo 64
		61) Range hood fan vents indoors rather than being ducted so as to vent outside. The fan and light were tested and operate satisfactorily. The buyer may want to modify the range hood so it vents outdoors.

Photo 20	Photo 78
Photo 81