Exterior and Foundation
5) Some sections of siding and/or trim were damaged. Recommend that a qualified person repair, replace or install siding or trim as necessary.
6) The masonry (brick or stone) veneer was deteriorated or damaged in some areas. Where cracks or openings are exposed, water can enter the wall structure causing mold, fungal growth and structural damage. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary. For example, by repointing mortar or replacing broken or missing masonry.
7) Fence(s) were attached to or in contact with the building exterior. Such attachments can serve as a pathway for wood-destroying insects and can retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary so there is at least a 2-inch gap between fences and building exteriors.
8) One hole was found in siding or trim. Vermin, insects or water may enter the structure. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
Electric
17) All electric receptacles at the kitchen, garage and/or exterior had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, or the inspector was unable to determine if GFCI protection was present. Due to age of the house GFCI wasn't required for the kitchen at the time house was built. The kitchen would be a recommendation to upgrade to GFCI protection. If not GFCI-protected, receptacles in wet areas pose a shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and install GFCI protection if necessary and per standard building practices. General guidelines for GFCI-protected receptacles include the following locations:
- Outdoors (since 1973)
- Bathrooms (since 1975)
- Garages (since 1978)
- Kitchens (since 1987)
- Crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990)
- Wet bar sinks (since 1993)
- Laundry and utility sinks (since 2005)
For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?GFCI
18) Standard exterior electric receptacle was being used for appliances or systems that were constantly in use on front of house. This is a safety hazard for shock since water can reach receptacle slots. Recommend that a qualified person install "while in use" receptacle covers as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?INUSECVR
19) Smoke alarms were missing from one or more bedrooms. Smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning alarm exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, in each bedroom, on each level and in any attached garage. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRM
20) One or more cover plates for switches, receptacles or junction boxes were missing or broken. These plates are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from occurring due to exposed wires. Recommend that a qualified person install cover plates where necessary.
21) No carbon monoxide alarms were visible. This is a potential safety hazard. Some states and/or municipalities require CO alarms to be installed for new construction and/or for homes being sold. Recommend installing approved CO alarms outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms on each level and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?COALRM
22) The functionality of, power source for and placement of smoke alarms is not determined as part of this inspection. Smoke alarms should be installed in each bedroom, in hallways leading to bedrooms, on each level and in attached garages. They have a limited lifespan and should be replaced every 10 years. Batteries in smoke alarms should be changed when taking occupancy and annually in the future. Carbon monoxide alarms should be installed near sleeping areas and on each level in homes with a fuel-burning appliance or attached garage. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?SMKALRMhttp://www.reporthost.com/?COALRM
Heating, Ventilation and Air Condition (HVAC)
30) One or more heating or cooling ducts in an unconditioned space (e.g. crawl space, attic or basement) were not insulated, or the insulation was damaged or deteriorated. This can result in reduced energy efficiency, moisture inside heating ducts, and/or "sweating" on cooling ducts. Recommend that a qualified person repair per standard building practices. For example, by wrapping ducts in insulation with an R-value of R-8.
31) Insulation on the heat pump or air conditioning condensing unit's refrigerant lines was deteriorated or missing in some areas. This may result in reduced efficiency and increased energy costs. Recommend that a qualified person replace or install insulation as necessary.
Fireplaces, Stoves, Chimneys and Flues
36) The brick chimney was moderately deteriorated. For example, loose or missing mortar, cracked, broken, loose or spalled bricks. Loose bricks can pose a safety hazard, and deteriorated masonry can allow water to infiltrate the chimney structure and cause further damage. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary.
37) One or more masonry chimney crowns were cracked. Crowns are meant to keep water off of the chimney structure and prevent damage from freeze-thaw cycles. Chimney crowns are commonly constructed by mounding concrete or mortar on the top chimney surface, however this is substandard. A properly constructed chimney crown should:
- Be constructed using either precast concrete slabs, cast-in-place steel reinforced concrete, solid stone, or metal
- Be sloped down from the flue a minimum of 3 inches of fall per foot of run
- Extend a minimum of 2 1/2 inches beyond the face of the chimney on all sides
- Not directly contact the flue liner (if installed), with the gap filled with flexible caulk
- Have flashing installed between the bottom of the crown and the top of the brick chimney
Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or replace crowns as necessary, and per standard building practices.