Lighthouse Home Inspection
Website: http://www.lighthousehomeinspection.net
Email: lighthouse_hi@yahoo.com
Phone: (508) 428-1975 · (774) 238-2851
FAX: (508) 428-1975
P.O. Box 924
Sandwich, Ma 02563
Inspector: Michael Ayer
Ma Home Inspector License # 136
Radon NRSB RMS # 6ss0023
|
HOME INSPECTION REPORT |
| Client(s): |
xxxxxxxxxxxxx |
| Property address: |
76 Vandermint Ln. Hyannis,Ma 02601 |
| Inspection date: |
Saturday, January 23, 2010 |
This report published on 2/13/2010 10:23:23 PM EST
View summary page
This inspection and report are designed to conform to the standard Real Estate contract requirements and does not include an inspection of cosmetic or aesthetic items. The inspection will be performed only on readily accessible components of the home. This includes general systems and components and is aimed at identifying any system or component, which requires immediate attention or major repair.
The inspection is performed in compliance with accepted standards of practice and conforms to or exceeds the standards established by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI).and in accordence with the Massachusetts CRM 2.66 standards of practice The report includes the following items:[ Sometimes not in order or pertaining to this report ]
SECTION 1: Grounds ( fences & gates, porches, decks, and patios)
SECTION 2: Exterior Walls ( trim, doors, chimney, windows, garage and foundation)
SECTION 3: Roof ( roof structure, gutters and attic)
SECTION 4: Plumbing system (supply, waste lines, water heaters)
SECTION 5: Heating Systems
SECTION 6: Cooling Systems
SECTION 7: Electrical (main panel, sub panel) Wiring, Fixtures
SECTION 8: Interior (doors, windows, walls, ceilings, floors, stairs and fireplace)
The inspection is limited to visual observations of apparent conditions existing at the time of the inspection. When necessary and appropriate the inspector will perform simple mechanical tests to determine whether or not a system or appliance is in good working order.
The inspection and report are performed and prepared for the sole, confidential and exclusive use and possession of the customer and / or the customer's agent or delegate. If the inspector recommends consulting other specialized experts, any such consultation shall be at the customers sole discretion and expense.
This inspection and report is not an expressed or implied warranty of any items inspected. Deficiencies and defects, which are latent or concealed, are excluded from the inspection. The inspector is not required to move debris, furniture, equipment, carpeting or other items, which may impede access or limit visibility, or enter any area with less than 24 inches clearance.
This inspection is not a substitute to replace any real property disclosure statements lf required by law; nor does it substitute or replace any disclosure obligation of the customer.
The inspector has no present or contemplated future interest in the property described and covered by this inspection report.
The inspector will not report on cosmetic/aesthetic defects which includes but is not limited to the following: foggy window panes, scratches, small holes, defective carpet, typical minor cracks found in concrete, stucco, CB construction and asphalt, painting requirements when structural damage is not imminent, and other minor defects which have no bearing on the structural integrity of the property.
It is not the scope of this inspection to determine compliance to code or local ordinance. The inspector is not required to enter any area having less than 24-inch clearance in any area, which would endanger the inspector or cause harm to the structure. It is not the scope of this inspection to determine the presence of radon or any other harmful substance unless otherwise stated for a specific substance.
PRE-CLOSING WALK THROUGH
The walk through prior to closing is the time for Client to inspect the property. Conditions can change between the time of a home inspection and the time of closing. Restrictions that existed during the inspection may have been removed for the walk-through. Defects or problems that were not found during the home inspection may be discovered during the walk-through. Client should be thorough during the walk-through.
Any defect or problem discovered during the walk-through should be negotiated with the owner/seller of the property prior to closing. Purchasing the property with a known defect or problem releases Lighthouse Home Inspection of any responsibility. Client assumes responsibility for all known defects after settlement.
Link to Mass. Home inspection standards of practice. PLEASE READ!
http://www.mass.gov/?pageID=ocamodulechunk&L=4&L0=Home&L1=Licensee&L2=Division+of+Professional+Licensure+Boards&L3=Board+of+Registration+of+Home+Inspectors&sid=Eoca&b=terminalcontent&f=dpl_boards_hi_cmr_266cmr600&csid=Eoca
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types: | Safety | Poses a risk of injury or death |
 | Major Defect | Correction likely involves a significant expense |
 | Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing |
 | Repair/Maintain | Recommend repair and/or maintenance |
 | Minor Defect | Correction likely involves only a minor expense |
 | Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance |
 | Evaluate | Recommend evaluation by a licensed specialist |
 | Monitor | Recommend monitoring in the future |
 | Serviceable | Item or component is in serviceable condition |
 | Comment | For your information |
Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Concerns relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:
 | Infestation | Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) |
 | Damage | Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) |
 | Conducive conditions | Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Report number: 012310
Time started: 10:00am
Time finished: 12:25pm
Present during inspection: Client, Realtor
Client present for discussion at end of inspection: Yes
Weather conditions: Clear, Recent rain
Temperature: Cold 35
Ground condition: Wet
Inspection fee: 345.00
Payment method: Check
Type of building: Single family
Buildings inspected: 4 bedroom cape ,garage, basement
Number of residential units inspected: 1
Age of building(s): 39
Source for building age: Client
Front of building faces: Southwest
Main entrance faces: Southwest
Occupied: No
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Private sewage disposal system
1)
One or more leaks were found in gas supply lines, fittings and/or valves. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of explosion. A qualified contractor and/or the gas utility company should evaluate and make repairs as soon as possible. [ at boiler ]
Photo 51
|
|
2)
This property has one or more fuel burning appliances, and no carbon monoxide alarms are visible. This is a safety hazard. Recommend installing one or more carbon monoxide alarms as necessary and as per the manufacturer's instructions. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
3)
Effective March 31-2006, all Massachusetts homes, new construction or units being sold that have enclosed parking or equipment such as boilers, furnaces and hot water heaters powered by gas, coal, oil or wood will be required to have carbon monoxide alarms. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless and tasteless gas that can kill. The new regulations require carbon monoxide detectors on every level of the home and within 10 feet of each sleeping area and in habitable portions of basements and attics. If you are elderly and can not install a detector, ask for help. Start by calling your local senior center..
4)
Structures built prior to 1979 may contain lead-based paint and/or asbestos in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is not included in this inspection. The client(s) should consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement contractors for this type of evaluation. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit these websites:
The Environmental Protection Association (http://www.epa.gov)
The Consumer Products Safety Commission (http://www.cpsc.gov)
The Center for Disease Control (http://www.cdc.gov)
5)
Evidence of rodent infestation was found in the form of feces mouse holes in one or more areas including the attic. Recommend consulting with the property owner about this. A qualified person should make repairs to seal openings in the structure, set traps, and clean rodent waste as necessary. Recommend following guidelines in these Center for Disease Control articles:
http://www.cdc.gov/rodents/prevent_rodents/seal_up.htm
http://www.cdc.gov/rodents/prevent_rodents/trap_up.htm
http://www.cdc.gov/rodents/prevent_rodents/clean_up.htm
Photo 80
Rodent droppings and holes in attic crawl area
|
|
6)
Vermin and other pests are part of the natural habitat, but they often invade homes. Rats and mice have collapsible rib cages and can squeeze through even the tiniest crevices. And it is not uncommon for them to establish colonies within crawlspaces, attics, closets, and even the space inside walls, where they can breed and become a health-hazard. Therefore, it would be prudent to have an exterminator evaluate the residence to ensure that it is rodent-proof, and to periodically monitor those areas that are not readily accessible.
7)
- - There are a number of environmental pollutants that can contaminate a home, the detection of which requires specialized testing equipment that is beyond the scope of my service. However, there are two pollutants about which I am frequently asked, carbon monoxide and asbestos. Carbon monoxide is a bi-product that results from the incomplete combustion of carbon-based fuels, such oil, propane, natural gas, and wood. Carbon monoxide is often referred to as the "silent killer" because it cannot be seen, smelled, or tasted. It is a by-product that is formed by the incomplete combustion of carbon based fuels such as gasoline, natural gas, oil, propane, and wood. It is slightly lighter than air, and can float in pockets at any level within a room, and whereas some concentrations are tolerable, others can be deadly. All fuel-burning appliances are capable of producing carbon dioxide, even modern ones, and particularly those in newer homes that are more weathertight and can have insufficient fresh air to support complete combustion.
- - MOLD - - I do not inspect for mold or other toxins. Mold has been in existence since before recorded time, and most of it is benign, but some molds are toxic and can represent a serious health threat. However, not all molds can be detected by visual means, and indeed some may be hidden from view, or flourish suddenly in the presence of moisture, and the only person that could certify a residence is free of molds and toxins would be an environmental hygienist. Regardless, mold is rapidly replacing asbestos as one of the most litigious environmental issues. Therefore, an environmental hygienist or mold specialist MUST inspect the property before close of escrow. For further information, the buyer and seller should visit the website of the Environmental Protection Agency at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html Or the Center for Disease Control and Prevention at www.cdc.gov
Mold noted in garage, bathroom and bedroom]
Photo 30
mold in garage ceiling
|
Photo 49
mold ceiling bathroom
|
Photo 75
Possible mold in ceiling 2nd floor bedroom
|
|
8)
This is a 39 year old (approximate age) home. As with all homes, ongoing maintenance is required and improvements to the systems of the home will be needed over time. Please remember that there is no such thing as a perfect home.
9)
A) Clothes washers and dishwashers may leak if unused for extended periods of time. Use unneeded equipment
monthly to help keep in the best working order possible.
B) Clothes dryer vents and duct will eventually clog with lint, if clothes drying time seems excessively long, have dryer
duct cleaned, this will also increase the life of the dryer.
C) Refrigerator door seals eventually tear and need replacement.
D) Kitchen range hood grease filters require cleaning on a regular basis, Jenn Air type exhaust fans have grease
catching jars which need emptying and cleaning.
10)
A) All windows and doors can be expected to require minor adjustments.
B) We recommend replacing all exterior locks for security reasons.
C) Test smoke detectors monthly, and for those with batteries, install new batteries in the spring and the fall when
the time changes.
D) Obtain all warranties and other applicable documents
E] Install Carbon Monoxide Detectors on each floor and basement.
11)
Product recalls and consumer product safety alerts are added almost daily. If you are concerned about appliances or other items installed in the home that may be on such lists, you should visit the U.S. Consumer Protection Safety Commission (CPSC) web site http://www.cpsc.gov for further information before close of escrow. My inspection does not include the identification or research for appliances and other items installed in the home that may be on the CPSC lists.
12)
The U.S. Surgeon General, Richard Carmona, Issues National Health Advisory on Radon
The Surgeon General of the United States issued a Health Advisory in January, 2005 warning Americans about the health risk from exposure to radon in indoor air. The Nations Chief Physician urged Americans to test their homes to find out how much radon they might be breathing. Dr. Carmona also stressed the need to remedy the problem as soon as possible when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more. Dr. Carmona noted that more than 20,000 Americans die of radon-related lung cancer each year. Read the Surgeon General's News Release http://www.surgeongeneral.gov/pressreleases/sg01132005.html
13)
This report shall supersede any written or verbal conversations, comments and or reports that were provided prior to providing this written report.
14)
17 Ways To Save Energy
With the rising cost of energy cost, here are some easy to do tips to help lower your energy bill.
1. Get a home energy audit every couple of years from a Certified InterNACHI Home Inspector to find ways to cut costs.
2. Check with your utility company for rebated whenever you install energy-saving equipment.
3. Add more energy-efficient insulation to your attic, perferably with a resistance rating of R-21 to R-30
4. Turn down your home thermostat two degrees and save 24 -kilowatt hours a month. It might not sound like much, but it adds up.
5. Buy a programmable thermostat, especially if your home is vacant most of the day. Set it to turn on a half hour before anyone arrives home.
6. Adjust your thermostat to a comfortable temperature and wait. Turning your thermostat up or down dramatically wasted energy and increases your heating costs.
7. Lower you hot water thermostat 10 degress, but no less than 120 degrees. You'll still get all the hot water you need and save 25-kilowatt hours a month.
8. Fix leaky faucets. One drip a second is 20 kilowatts a month.
9. Invest in weather-stripping kits if you've got drafty doors, and windows.
10. Trade your standard incandescent bulbs for compact fluorescent bulbs. They are more energy-efficent, last for years instead of months, consume little power and generate little heat.
11.Turn off your computer when not in use, or use the energy-saving"sleep"mode.
12. Seal energy leaks. Caulk over cracks and small holes around windows and exterior walls. Look carefully around plumbing pipes, telephone wires, dryer vents, sink and bathroom drains and under counter tops.
13. Participate in your power company's special energy-saving program. Some programs shut down electric appliances for short bursts of time during peak hours. You hardly notice the difference at the time, but you will notice a difference when you get your bill.
14. Buy major appliances that sport the "Energy Star" sticker. That shows the appliance meets or exceeds standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency.
15. Consider a front-loading washing machine. They use 50 percent less energy and one-third less water. Plus, they remove far more water in the rinse cycle, and that translates into big savings in dryer time.
16. When building a home or replacing a roof, select a roof based more on energy efficiency than how it looks. Light-colored roofs, such a white, galvanixed metal or cement tile, do the best job of reflecting the sun, and cool quickly at night.
17. Landscaping with the right mix of trees and shrubs can lower your energy bills by blocking winter winds or the summer sun.
15)
GENERAL COMMENTS: A. FREE or inexpensive ENERGY AUDITS by local utility companies are
recommended to further identify & estimate areas in need of energy saving improvements. B. YOU should
re-inspect the attic space after the owner has removed all possessions as hidden problems may exist. C.
New homes are now required to have a light in the attic. D. New homes are required to have a vapor
barrier of 1.0 perm or less installed on the warm side of walls, ceilings and floors enclosing a conditioned
space. E. Typical insulation requirements for residential applications include: Ceilings (R = 30) 9"
fiberglass or equivalent, walls & basement (R = 12.5) 3 1/2" fiberglass or equivalent. F. Typical ventilation
requirements for new residential applications include: Attics with a ceiling vapor barrier barrier shall have a
screened opening of at least 1 SF of free vent area for each 300 SF of ceiling space. Attics without a
ceiling vapor barrier shall have a screened opening of at least 1 SF for each 150 SF of ceiling area. G.
Buyers should ask the owner about any prior roof leakage and should monitor the attic to determine
if corrective action is needed. Be advised that active roof or flashing leaks can occur at anytime
regardless of the age or condition of the roof coverings and flashings. NOTICE: UNLESS THE ATTIC
WAS VIEWED DURING RAIN, NO GUARANTY AGAINST ROOF LEAKS IS IMPLIED. YOU should
monitor the attic area for signs of roof or flashing leakage after heavy rain or snow conditions.
Photo 102
|
|
16)
Mice in the Home
The common home mouse weighs less than one ounce and is from 1 to 1 1/2 inches in length. The body is grayish-brown above and lighter, never white below. Generally it is a permanent resident in homes and other buildings. Wild mice enter dwellings in late summer or fall and spend the winter and leave in the spring. As mice are excellent climbers and can in found at all levels of the house from the basement to the attic. Mice can be controlled.
Always use gloves and masks when removing mice, for protection from contacting virus from mice, Pest Control Co. recommended!
OUTDOOR CONTROL METHODS
Do not stack firewood next to buildings.
Keep vegetation around buildings and wood piles trimmed.
Remove all trash or rubbish or store it in containers with tight fitting lids Remove hay or straw mulches from around foundations.
Do not leave pet food outside.
Store bird feed in metal containers with tight fitting lids Clean up under and around bird feeders.
Inside attached garages, install 1/8 inch or finer mesh wire screening over the opening where the roof rafters and the top wall plate meet. Use a pre-mix cement to grout the holes in top row of exposed foundation blocks in attached garages because mice climb through these holes.
INDOOR CONTROL METHODS
Store food and pet food in glass or metal containers with tight fitting lids or in cabinets with snug fitting doors. Use standard single or multiple catch traps and glue boards.
Bait the traps with a small dab of peanut butter.
Poison baits are available but they should not be used near human or pet food supplies.
In the garage, place traps next to the corners of the doors, the most likely entry point. As rodents move, one side of their body is kept in contact With a vertical surface. Therefore, set tram perpendicular walls where mice have been seen. Place traps 1/8 inch from the wall, 6 to 8 feel apart with triggers placed toward the wall http://www.ehow.com/how_4461253_mouse-proof-home.html?ref=fuel&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=yssp_art
17)
CONCERNED ABOUT RISING ENERGY COSTS? MASSSAVE CAN HELP.
There are so many great reasons to make energy-saving changes to your home—reduced energy costs throughout the year, improved home comfort, and lower greenhouse gas emissions.
- MassSave may provide you a no-cost home energy assessment to identify the energy-saving improvements that are right for you.
- MassSave may provide money toward the cost of purchasing and installing approved energy-saving measures and money-saving rebates when you install qualifying energy efficient equipment.
Get started today. Call MassSAVE at 866-527-7283 or go to www.masssave.com for more information or to schedule your home energy audit.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: swimming pools, spas, hot tubs, water features and related equipment; playground, recreation or leisure equipment; landscape lighting; areas below exterior structures with less than three feet of vertical clearance; irrigation systems; invisible fencing; sea walls, docks and boathouses. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not test or determine the adequacy of drainage systems for grounds, walkways, below-grade stairs and roof downspouts. The inspector does not provide an evaluation of geological conditions and/or site stability, compliance of pool or spa fencing with municipal requirements, or determination that deck, balcony and/or stair membranes are watertight.
Condition of fences and gates: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Fence and gate material: Wood
Site profile: Level
Condition of driveway: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below), Near end of service life
Driveway material: Asphalt
Condition of decks, porches and/or balconies: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of guardrails: Appeared serviceable
Deck, porch and/or balcony material: Wood
Condition of exterior stairs: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Exterior stair material: Concrete
18)
One or more large trees on the property may be likely to fall on the building, and are a potential safety hazard. Recommend consulting with a qualified arborist to determine if tree(s) need to be removed and/or pruned.
19)
One or more trip hazards were found in the driveway due to cracks, settlement, heaving and/or deterioration. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace driveway sections as necessary to eliminate trip hazards.
Photo 7
|
|
20)
Exterior stairs were damaged. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 9
|
|
21)
Fences were damaged or deteriorated in some areas. A qualified person should repair or replace sections as necessary.
22)
Recommend cleaning deck(s) and railing(s) and treating with a preservative claiming to waterproof, block ultraviolet light, and stop mildew. Consumer Reports recommends these products:
Cabot Decking Stain and PTW Stain
Olympic Water Repellent Deck Stain
Thompson's House and Deck Stain
Wolman PTW Deck Stain
Akzo Sikkens Cetol DEK
Benjamin Moore Moorwood Clear Wood Finish
DAP Woodlife Premium
Olympic Natural Look Protector Plus
23)
Driveways and parking areas are commonly constructed of asphalt, concrete, brick or stone. These surfaces can rapidly deteriorate if maintenance is neglected. Over time and with constant exposure to the elements, moisture, and freeze-thaw cycles, degradation of any surface are inevitable. I advise that all driveway and parking area Surfaces should be maintained at regular intervals with sealers or suitable water repellents.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: below-grade foundation walls and footings, or those obscured by vegetation or building components; exterior building surfaces or components obscured by vegetation, stored items or debris. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Some amount of cracking is normal in concrete slabs and foundation walls due to shrinkage and drying. Note that the inspector does not determination the adequacy of sump pumps, seismic reinforcement, nor determine if support posts, columns, beams, joists, studs, trusses, etc. are of adequate size, spanning or spacing.
Condition of wall covering: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Wall covering: Wood, Cedar shingles
Condition: Repair / Replace,Eval.
Condition of foundation and footings: Appeared serviceable
Foundation type: Unfinished basement
Foundation material: Poured in place concrete
Footing material: Not determined
Anchor bolts for seismic reinforcement: None visible
Condition of floor substructure: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Pier or support post material: Steel
Beam material: Built up wood
Floor structure: Solid wood joists
Condition of the basement: Required repair and/or evaluation (see comments below)
24)
Observation: As viewed from the basement, there is an open “chase” in the floor frame at the following location(s):
[XXX ] Below the bathtub
[ ] Adjacent to plumbing waste or vent pipes
[ ] Adjacent to pipes
[ ] At an abandoned heating duct
[ ] At an open floor register with no duct
[ ] At an abandoned opening in the subfloor
[ ] At a laundry chute
[ ] At the sill / exterior wall area
Analysis: **** UNSAFE – this is a FIRE HAZARD. A simple repair is needed. An open chase is an opening in the floor frame that may allow the rapid spread of fire from the basement to other parts of the home. Fire will actually chase the draft upward. Open chases are often found next to chimneys, at plumbing vent pipes, at abandoned heating ducts, floor registers and other areas where the floor frame has been altered and abandoned. Obsolete balloon framing is notorious for having open chases in the exterior walls extending from basement to roof.
Recommendation: For fire safety, I advise that all open chases be sealed off with appropriate firestopping.
Photo 58
Open Chase
|
|
25)
Handrail(s) at basement stairs are ungraspable and has a pinch point and are a safety hazard. Handrails should be sized and shaped so your hand can encircle them. A qualified contractor should make repairs or modifications as necessary. For example, replacing existing handrails
Photo 91
|
|
26)
Evidence of prior water intrusion was found in one or more sections of the basement. For example, efflorescence on the foundation etc. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the basement. The client should review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner about past accumulation of water in the basement. The basement should be monitored in the future for accumulated water, especially after heavy and/or prolonged periods of rain. If water is found to accumulate, a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in basements include:
Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
Improving perimeter grading
Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
Ideally, water should not enter basements, but if water must be controlled after it enters the basement, then typical repairs include installing a sump pump. http://homebuying.about.com/od/homeshopping/qt/Wetbasement.htm
Photo 56
|
Photo 63
|
Photo 66
|
|
27)
Rot or water damage was found at one or more sections of siding, trim, window sills, window frames. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary. All rotten wood should be replaced.
Photo 1
|
Photo 17
|
Photo 23
|
Photo 22
|
28)
One joist were damaged due to non standard or substandard notches. Standard building practices specify the following limitations for notching and boring joists:
Notches should not be cut in the middle third of any joist
Notches should not be deeper than 1/6 of the joist depth
Notches should not be deeper than 1/4 of the joist depth at joist ends
Bored holes should not be closer than 2 inches to the edges of the joist
Bored holes should not be wider than 1/3 of the joist depth
A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. Whole section of joist cut away.
Photo 92
|
|
29)
Some areas Soil was in contact with or less than six inches from siding and/or trim. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Soil should be graded and/or removed as necessary so there are at least six inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil below.
Photo 4
|
|
30)
Caulk was missing around windows, around doors, at wall penetrations. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/_docs/FPL_Caulking_Ins_Outs.pdf
http://homerepair.about.com/od/interiorhomerepair/ss/sbs_caulking.htm
31)
The basement bulkhead door is beginning to rust. I recommend painting/repair by a qualified contractor.
Photo 64
|
|
32)
The exterior finish in some trim areas was failing. A qualified contractor should prep (pressure wash, scrape, sand, prime caulk, etc.) and repaint or restain areas as needed and as per standard building practices.
Photo 16
|
Photo 21
|
33)
Most of The soil clearances around the house are adequate to prevent rot and wood destroying insect infestation. To reduce the risk of rot and wood destroying insect activity, continue to maintain eight inches of clearance between the wood components of the house and soil. Maintain six inches of clearance to vinyl or metal siding. The ground is properly graded in some areas around the perimeter of the house. Grading improvement should be undertaken in areas that are flat or sloped toward the foundation. The ideal slope around the house is one inch of drop per foot for the first ten feet. The ground should be ten inches lower, ten feet away from the house.
34)
Poured concrete foundation walls often develop small cracks as a result of normal settlement or material
shrinkage. This is considered normal, and does not have an adverse effect on the foundation.
The concrete floor exhibits random thin hairline cracks. The cracks appear to be shrinkage type cracks caused by excessive water during the pouring of the concrete. Such cracks are common with concrete foundations and generally pose no major problem in terms of reduction in load bearing capacity. Hairline shrinkage cracks should be sealed to prevent water infiltration, radon gas entry and possible wood boring insect access. Professional epoxy injection service companies can be hired to repair foundation cracks with a long lasting sealant, or you can seal the cracks yourself with a hydraulic cement product or suitable caulk. Once repaired, the cracks should be monitored for future movement.
Floor framing in the structure is of conventional lumber. The strength is largely a function of the species of wood; this factor will determine the joist size and spacing based on their intended load requirements. Warping and knots are common in lumber, and “checking” cracks can sometimes occur. Lumber shrinkage, even on kiln-dried wood, can also cause hairline cracks to occur. This is often manifested by interior surface cracks on the walls and ceilings and is considered normal. This type of checking or cracking does not have a significant effect on the strength of the framing members.
Complete evaluation of the floor frame and the sub-flooring was restricted by the presence of insulating materials. There were no visibly apparent deficiencies at the time of the inspection; however, complete evaluation would require removal of the insulating materials.
35)
Unfinished basements and
crawlspaces at or below grade level.
All receptacles installed in these
locations must have ground-fault
protection, except for:
A single (not duplex or triplex)
receptacle supplied by a dedicated
branch circuit for a plug-in appliance
such as a freezer or refrigerator
A laundry circuit
A single receptacle supplying a
permanently installed sump pump
Photo 101
|
|
Limitations: The following items or areas are not included in this inspection: areas that could not be traversed or viewed clearly due to lack of access; areas and components obscured by insulation; solar roofing components; any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not determination if rafters, trusses, joists, beams, etc. are of adequate size, spanning or spacing. The inspector does not provide an estimate of remaining roof surface life, does not determine that the roof has absolutely no leaks at the time of the inspection, and does not determine that the roof won't leak in the future. Only active leaks and evidence of past leaks observed during the inspection are reported on as part of this inspection. To absolutely determine than no leaks exist, complete access to all roof structure areas must be available during a wide variety of weather conditions, including prolonged heavy rain, high wind from varying directions, heavy accumulations of snow and/or ice, and melting snow and ice.
Condition of roof structure: Appeared serviceable
Roof type: Gable
Approx. Age of roof surface(s): 10
Source for building age: Inspector's estimate
Roof inspection method: Viewed from eaves on ladder, Viewed from ground with binoculars, Viewed from windows
Condition of shingle and/or shake roof surface materials: Appeared serviceable
Roof surface material: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Apparent number of layers of roof surface material: One
Condition of exposed flashings: Appeared serviceable
Condition of gutters, downspouts and extensions: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Gutter and downspout material: Metal
Gutter and downspout installation: Full
Condition of attic: Required repair and/or evaluation (see comments below) Small crawl over kitchen
Attic inspection method: Traversed
Attic Roof structure type: Rafters
Ceiling structure: Ceiling beams
Ceiling insulation material: Fiberglass roll or batt
Ceiling insulation rating: 11
Vapor retarder: Installed
Roof ventilation: Substandard
36)
Extensions such as splashblocks or drain pipes for many downspouts were missing, substandard. Water may accumulate around the building foundation as a result. A qualified person should evaluate and repair, replace or install as necessary
37)
Ventilation appeared to be substandard in space above main house [ no gable ,sofit or ridge vents visible ]. This may result in high attic and roof surface temperatures, reduce the life of the roof covering materials and increase cooling costs. High levels of moisture are also likely, and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of attic space. Vents should be evenly distributed between soffits, ridges and at corners to promote air circulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.
Photo 96
|
Photo 104
|
38)
The siding on one or more exterior walls above lower roof sections was in contact with or had less than a one inch gap between it and the roof surface below. A gap of at least one inch is recommended so water isn't wicked up into the siding from the shingles below, and also to provide room for additional layers of roofing materials when the current roof surface fails. Recommend having a qualified contractor make repairs as necessary, such as trimming siding, so at least a one inch gap exists between the siding and the roofing below where necessary.
Photo 26
|
|
39)
The ceiling insulation's R rating was significantly less than what's recommended for this area. Recommend having a qualified contractor install additional insulation as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency. For more information, visit:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html
http://www.healthgoods.com/education/Healthy_Home_Information/Insulation/insulation_recommendations.htm
40)
Ceiling insulation in the attic was damaged, apparently by rodents (burrow holes, feces, urine stains, etc.). The client may want to have insulation replaced for sanitary reasons or to prevent odors.
41)
The ceiling insulation in some areas of the attic was uneven. This may result in increased heating or cooling costs due to decreased energy efficiency. A qualified person should repair, replace or install insulation as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html
42)
Attic hatch door located in the bedroom found to have no insulation. The attic access hatch should be insulated, ideally to the same level as the rest of the attic. Rigid or batt insulation can be glued to the top of the hatch. Air leakage around the access hatch can be controlled if the hatch cover is weather-stripped. Sometimes there is no access into the attic. These are installation issues. Heat loss is an issue where the access hatch is not insulated. Air leaking from the house into the attic is both a heat loss and moisture damage issue. Warm, moist air leaking into the attic can condense on structural members, causing damage.
It's recommended that you install some form of insulation on the back of the attic access hatch.
43)
Two sections of roof surfaces are sloped towards each other. Debris such as leaves or needles are more likely to accumulate in this area than rest of the roof. Leaks may occur as a result. Recommend monitoring such areas for accumulated debris in the future and cleaning as necessary.
Photo 27
|
|
44)
Trees were overhanging roof and were within 10 feet of roof vertically. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms since organic debris such as leaves or needles are more likely to accumulate on the roof surface. Accumulated debris may cause water to enter gaps in the roof surface and leak into attic and/or interior spaces. Trees should be pruned so they are at least 10 feet above roof, or don't overhang the roof.
45)
Stains were visible on the roof structure in one or more areas. These areas were dry at the time of the inspection. The stains may be caused by a past leak. Recommend asking the property owner about past leaks. The client should monitor these areas in the future, especially after heavy rains, to determine if active leaks exist. If leaks are found, a qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Photo 79
|
|
46)
As viewed, the gable roof structure appears to be
covered with asphalt and fiberglass composition shingles.
Analysis: This material is the most common roof covering used in this part of the
country and typically provides many years of service when installed properly and
maintained. However, asphalt shingles are NOT designed to last the life of the home
and will require eventual routine age replacement. Replacement should be a budgeted
item and should be scheduled before leakage occurs. The service life of the material
varies and depends on variable such as: the initial shingle weight or quality, the
steepness or pitch of the roof, the amount of attic ventilation, the number of roofing
layers and the orientation of the home to the sun. (Note: Average weight shingles
last approximately 15-20 years, heavy duty shingles last 25-30 years.)
During ownership, you should conduct an annual roofing inspection to make sure
that the condition of the roof is functional or fulfilling it's objective of shedding water
before leakage occurs. Look for missing or loose materials, split shingles, areas of
storm damage, blown-off shingles, curling shingles, loss of granules, exposed felt mat
or other age defects and perform repairs as required to extend service life
47)
Observation: UNDERGROUND DRAINS PRESENT - downspouts which carry roof run-off water
enter the ground near the foundation. Beyond this point, the downspouts pass underground to
unknown locations.
Analysis: DISCLAIMER: The functional condition of these hidden drains is undetermined as
they are not accessible.
Recommendation: I advise that you question the owner and ask where the downspouts lead and if
they satisfactorily handle all of the water from the roof. I further advise that you monitor the drains
during several seasonal periods of prolonged and heavy rains. The gutters leading to the
underground drains should be screened to prevent clogging.
The downspouts may empty into buried dry wells or they may run to the lot boundary or area of lower
elevation. (A dry well is a covered pit with either an open jointed lining or filled with stone aggregate
through which drainage from the roof seeps and leaches into the surrounding soil.) Note: Be advised
that faulty downspouts that discharge near the foundation or buried drainage systems that boil over or
retain water near the foundation may contribute to wet basement problems
Photo 3
|
|
48)
No accessible attic spaces were found above main house or inspected at this property.
49)
ATTIC: (For Your Information)
The following is a list of Insulation Types, and their estimated "R-Value" per inch.
Insulation Type R-Value per Inch
Fiber Glass Blanket / Batt 2.9 - 3.8 (use 3.2)
High Performance Fiber Glass / Batt 3.7 - 4.3 (use 3.8)
Loose-Fill Fiber Glass 2.3 - 2.7 (use 2.5)
Loose-Fill Rock Wool 2.7 - 3.0 (use 2.8)
Loose-Fill Cellulose 3.4 - 3.7 (use 5.9)
Spray Polyurethane Foam 5.6 - 6.3 (use 5.9)
Ceilings | R-38 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 12" of Fiberglass Batt Insulation or 12" of pouring Rock Wool or Fiberglass.
Exterior Walls | R-16 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 3 1/2" of Fiberglass Batts.
Cantilever Floors & Floors over Crawl Spaces | R10 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 6" of Fiberglass Batts.
Basement Walls | R-8 Insulation - This can be accomplished with 3 1/2" of Fiberglass Bats or 2" of extruded polystyrene sheathing.
50)
Winter Moisture There are two sets of circumstances favorable to winter condensation of moisture in an attic:
In cold climates, a combination of high, inside relative humidity (60% or above) and low outside temperature (30 degrees F or below) may cause condensation on the underside of the roof sheathing. Condensation develops from a combination of high relative humidity and temperature differentials. Condensation cannot form when the relative humidity is low, or the temperature is high.
Even in moderate climates with high relative humidity, the day-night temperature cycle, combined with high humidity, may cause condensation on the underside of the roof sheathing.
Effective attic ventilation is often more critical in newer than in older homes. Incongruous as it may seem; progress in home construction has created conditions that increase the possibility of winter moisture condensation. Modern homes are better insulated, thus easier to heat and cool. They are tighter, thus cleaner and less drafty. They are better planned and more compact. They incorporate more labor-saving appliances. All of these factors mean more comfortable living, but they have combined to increase the quantities of water vapor within smaller spaces and have made it more difficult for the vapor to escape.
The result is a series of problems such as wet (and consequently less effective) insulation, wood decay, and peeling paint. These conditions may go unnoticed until considerable damage has been done.
If little or no insulation is present, there is little possibility that a ventilation problem will exist because without adequate insulation, the heat that is lost to the attic will allow the air to control the rising relative humidity. Homes with little or no insulation are likely to have 2 to 10 times more air-changes per hour than modern, relatively tight homes. Since homeowners have become aware of the importance of insulating and tightening up their homes to conserve energy, condensation and ventilation problems have become widespread. Saving energy is recommended, but it is important to understand what happens to the moisture in the air when the relative humidity goes up and down.
During the summer, a poorly ventilated attic can reach or exceed a temperature of 150 degrees F. Even with insulation covering the attic floor, the rooms below may have excessive heat gains and, therefore, be less comfortable and increase air conditioning costs. Such a situation could also shorten the life of the air conditioning system as well as some roofing materials. The air conditioning system may suffer significant inefficiencies due to the heat, especially if the ductwork is located in the attic. Cool air may also be lost through the ductwork and the unit may have to work longer.
High attic temperatures may cause deterioration of many fire-retardant plywood roof sheathings, joist and truss members to split and deform, and truss plates to deteriorate and loosen.
Humidity primarily comes from within the house (i.e. from tubs and showers, unvented clothes dryers, humidifiers, cooking, basement and crawl spaces, etc.). It also comes from less obvious sources, such as plants, standing water in a sink and even a large number of people who may stay in the house for a prolonged period of time. The very act of breathing by a family of four can expel approximately 1/2 pint of water per hour into the atmosphere of a home. Mopping a kitchen floor of about 150 square feet can release approximately 4 ½ pints of water; washing the dinner dishes can release about 1/2 pint. A wind-blown rain can cause water to enter and evaporate into the attic area through roof leaks or poorly designed or installed ventilators.
Condensation in an attic is due to saturated air. The first place that the air will usually saturate is on the north side, at the lowest area in the attic, just above the insulation. The reason for this is two-fold:
1. The north side will be colder than the south side.
2. The biggest temperature change takes place just above the insulation. There is also a smaller volume of air at this point than there is closer to the center of the attic or roof system. Mold will form at this north side (lowest area first); it progresses up the north side, and when it gets up about halfway, it starts at the lowest area of the south side. If the conditions are serious enough, the mold will continue to rise on both sides until all of the sheathing is black with mold.
51)
Ice dam leaks occur in winter when a roof system is not properly ventilated and/or insulated. It usually occurs when the outside temperature is less than 20 deg. F and the attic temperature is more than 30 deg F with snow on the roof.
As the snow melts, it runs down the roof, encounters a dam of ice and backs up under the roof covering near the eaves. Risk of leaks increases with more snow, low sloped roofs, length of slope, interruptions in slope such as skylights and dormers, or a narrow passage under the roof. The general remedy to ice damming is to augment attic ventilation and /or insulation. The object is to keep the attic as cool as possible at all times and to provide for proper air flow.
Good attic ventilation is important. During the heating season, inadequate attic ventilation can lead to
condensation, mold or mildew development, sheathing problems and indoor air quality problems. During the warmer seasons, inadequate attic ventilation can lead to roof degradation and higher utility bills.
The attic of this dwelling includes fiberglass batt insulation. Batt insulation is manufactured in two to twelve inch thick and 15 to 23 inch wide batts. The batt or blanket can be faced with a variety of covers, including a vapor retarder, or it can be unfaced. The vapor retarder on fiberglass batt insulation generally needs to face the warm-in-winter side, or conditioned side, of the insulation. In most climates, this means that batt insulation installed in attics should have the vapor retarder against the attic floor.
Photo 103
|
|
52)
When insulating an unused attic area, the goal is to have the temperature in the attic the same as the outdoor temperature. This concept gives some people difficulty as they assume that to keep the house cozy, the attic should be as warm as the rest of the house. It is best to consider the attic space as part of the great outdoors and the sloped roof as nothing more than a large umbrella. Consequently, insulation should be provided on the floor of the attic rather than the underside of the roof.
Insulating the floor of the attic rather than the underside of the roof has several advantages. The first is gravity. It is much easier to install the insulation on the floor than tacking it to the underside of the roof, especially when considering large quantities. The second is heating costs. There is no percentage in heating unused attic space. The third reason is the prevention of condensation problems. Insulation on the floor of the attic allows for much easier ventilation of the attic space via roof vent cases, soffit vents. (Gable vents can also be used.) If there is lots of air movement through the attic space, any warm moist air from the interior of the house which has managed to find its way into the attic will be swept away.
An air/vapor barrier should be installed below (on the warm side of) the insulation. This is not easy on existing homes as usually there is some insulation in the attic already. As a general rule, a vapor barrier can be installed over existing insulation, if at least twice as much insulation is added on top (the cold side) of the vapor barrier. If there is not enough insulation on top of the vapor barrier, the vapor barrier will get cold and condensation could form immediately below it, damaging the house.
Limitations: The inspector does not determine the adequacy of firewall ratings. Requirements for ventilation in garages varies between municipalities.
Type: Attached
Condition of garage vehicle door(s): Beyond service life
Garage vehicle door type: Sectional
Number of vehicle doors: 1
Condition of automatic opener(s): Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of garage floor: Appeared serviceable
Condition of garage interior: Required repair or evaluation (see comments below)
Garage ventilation: Exists window
53)
Safety containment cables are missing for one or more vehicle door springs. This is a safety hazard. Safety containment cables prevent springs from snapping free and causing damage or injury. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs or replace components as necessary. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html or http://www.ohdstl.com/safety.html
Photo 33
|
|
54)
The walls, ceilings between the attached garage and interior living spaces had holes. These surfaces are intended to prevent vehicle fumes from entering living spaces, and to slow the spread of fire from the garage to living spaces. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so the attached garage wall and ceiling surfaces that adjoin living spaces are tightly sealed and fire rated as per standard building practices. Typically these surfaces require a one-hour fire rating.
Photo 31
|
|
55)
vehicle door was damaged or deteriorated. A qualified contractor should evaluate replace the door as necessary.
Photo 5
|
Photo 6
|
56)
automatic vehicle door opener couldn't be fully evaluated because lt was disconnected.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: generator systems, surge suppressors, inaccessible or concealed wiring; underground utilities and systems; low voltage lighting or lighting on timers or sensors. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of grounding or bonding, does not determine if this system has an adequate capacity for the client's specific needs, nor determine if this system has any reserve capacity for additions or expansion. The inspector does not operate circuit breakers as part of the inspection, install or change light bulbs, nor determine the operability of every wall switch.
Electric service condition: Appeared serviceable
Primary service type: Underground
Number of service conductors: 3
Service voltage (volts): 120-240
Service amperage (amps): 100
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
Main disconnect rating (amps): 100
System ground: Cold water supply pipes
Condition of main service panel: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
# of circuits: 12--115 volt and 2--230 volt
Location of main service panel #A: Garage
Location of main disconnect: Top bank of breakers in main service panel (split bus)
Circuit breakers that were in the "off" position: 0
Branch circuit wiring type: Nonmetallic sheathed, Copper, Aluminum multi
Condition of branch circuit wiring: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: None visible
Condition of smoke detectors: Beyond service life
Smoke detectors present: Yes
Carbon monoxide detectors present: No
Smoke detector power source: Not determined
57)
This property had one or more Federal Pacific Electric brand main service or sub panels that use "Stab-Lok" circuit breakers (panel #A). Both double and single pole versions of these circuit breakers are known to fail by not tripping when they are supposed to. This is a potential but serious fire hazard. Recommend having a qualified electrician replace any and all Federal Pacific panels. For more information, visit: http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm
If the Federal Pacific panel(s) are not replaced, then a qualified electrician should thoroughly evaluate the panel(s) and make repairs as necessary. Recommend installing smoke detectors above Federal Pacific panels.
Photo 38
|
|
58)
One or more overcurrent protection devices (circuit breakers or fuses) in panel #A were "double tapped", where 2 or more wires were clamped in a terminal designed for only one wire. This is a safety hazard since the bolt or screw may tighten securely against one wire, but leave others loose. Arcing, sparks and fires may result. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Photo 39
|
Photo 41
|
59)
One or more connections with aluminum wires in panel #A lacked anti-oxidant paste. Oxidation usually occurs without it, and may result in poor connections, overheating, and possibly fires. A qualified electrician should evaluate and apply anti-oxidant paste as necessary. Main feed wires
Photo 40
|
|
60)
One section of wiring that weren't terminated were found. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, cutting the wire to length and terminating the wire with wire nuts in a securely anchored, covered, properly sized junction box.[ garage ]
Photo 34
|
|
61)
One male plug ends were installed on non-metallic sheathed wiring. This type of wiring is only intended for permanent, immovable installations. Wiring may be damaged by repeated movement. This is a safety hazard for shock and/or fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as hard-wiring appliances or circuits, or installing flexible wire.
Photo 70
Under Kitchen sink, incorrect wiring
|
|
62)
Wiring is unprotected. Wires should not be run where they can be damaged with normal day-to-day activities.
Wires should not be run along baseboards, around doorframes, under carpets, in closets, on patio covers, garage walls covering conduit) should be provided or the wire relocated as needed by a qualified licensed electrician for safety.
Photo 71
unprotected and incorrect wiring
|
|
63)
Some wiring is loose, unsupported, or inadequately supported. Standard building practices require non-metallic sheathed wiring to be trimmed to length, attached to runners or to solid backing with fasteners at intervals of 4-1/2 ft. or less. Fasteners should be installed within 12 inches of all enclosures. A qualified, licensed electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, trim wire to length and/or install staples as needed.[ attic crawl space ]
Photo 77
Attice crawl area
|
Photo 78
|
64)
Some receptacles were damaged and loose. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 93
|
|
65)
The older bathrooms outlets lack a modern ground-fault-circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection.
Analysis: New bathrooms are now required to have a 20-amp circuit leading to a GFCI protected U-type outlet. A bathroom is considered to be a water hazard area that can pose deadly shock hazards.
Recommendation: In my opinion, while the lack of a GFCI protected outlet may be typical for the age of the home and no repairs are required unless remodeling takes place, I still recommend GFCI upgrading for the electrical safety of the occupants. Upgrading the safety of the bathroom outlet is relatively inexpensive and could very well save a life. At your option, I urge you to consult an electrician for estimates on providing GFCI shock protection for all water hazard areas not so protected. http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_index.asp?page_id=35720244
66)
One or more electric receptacles at the following "wet" locations appeared to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection: kitchen, bathroom(s), garage, exterior, basement. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.mikeholt.com/documents/nec/pdf/GFCI_requirement_page2.pdf http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_index.asp?page_id=35720244
Photo 97
|
Photo 37
|
67)
Some switches were broken. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 32
|
|
68)
closet [1] light fixtures were damaged. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 88
|
|
69)
Lamp holders or light fixtures with fully or partially exposed bulbs were installed in one or more closets. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire. Flammable stored items may come into contact with hot bulbs, and hot fragments from broken bulbs may fall on combustible materials. Standard building practices require closet lighting to use fluorescent light fixtures, or to use fully enclosed incandescent fixtures. Installing a compact fluorescent lamp in a lamp holder is not an acceptable practice. A qualified electrician should replace closet lights as necessary and as per standard building practices.
Photo 73
|
|
70)
The electric service to this property appeared to be rated at substantially less than 200 amps, and may be inadequate for the client's future needs. Recommend consulting with a qualified electrician about upgrading to a 200 amp service.
71)
A typical house has 240-volts, brought in through overhead or underground wires from the street supply. A normal system is composed of three wires. The black and red wires are live, and the white wire is neutral. The potential between the black and white wire is 120- volts, between the red and white is 120-volts, and between the black and red is 240-volts. (Incidentally, the “red” wire often has black sheathing, just to make things confusing). The size of the service entrance cable determines how much electricity is available to the house. Either copper or aluminum cable may be used. Aluminum connections should be coated with an anti-oxidant (grease-like material) to prevent corrosion.
72)
Double tapping exists in the panel. Double tapping refers to attaching two or more wires to a single circuit breaker that was not designed to accept more than one wire. Double tapping can cause loose connections and arcing at the breaker, and nuisance tripping of the breaker due to excessive electrical loads on that breaker. I recommend that a qualified licensed electrician correct this concern.
73)
Grounding and bonding in electrical systems is often confusing. Grounding refers to providing a “path of least resistance” for electricity to flow to the earth in the event of a malfunction instead of flowing to electrical panels, appliances, persons, or anything else in contact with or a part of the electrical system. Electricity will always follow the path to ground that offers the least electrical resistance, and so copper wire is used for grounding connections. The electricity will usually “prefer” this path to any others available. Proper grounding is an essential part of any safe electrical system.
Bonding refers to the mechanical connections made between the electrical grounding system and other components in and around the home that may acquire an electrical charge under certain circumstances. The bonding connections are usually composed of solid or stranded copper wire and metal clamps. Bonding ensures that a difference in electrical potential (the cause of electrical shocks) will not build up between any components of the electrical system and other components in and around the home that are able to carry an electrical current. Plumbing pipes, for example, are able to carry an electrical charge, and so are bonded to the grounding system tonsure that they don’t become accidentally energized. If the plumbing pipes become energized due to an electrical malfunction, the electricity will flow through the bonding connections and then to ground, instead of through things or persons in contact with the plumbing pipes. Proper bonding is essential to the safety of any home and electrical system.
74)
DATES GFCI REQUIRMENTS WERE ESTABLISHED:
1971 Receptacles within 15 feet of pool walls
1971 All equipment used with storable swimming pools
1973 All outdoor receptacles
1974 Construction Sites
1975 Bathrooms, 120-volt pool lights, and fountain equipment
1978 Garages, spas, and hydro massage tubs
1978 Outdoor receptacles above 6ft.6in. grade access exempted
1984 Replacement of non-grounding receptacles with no grounding conductor allowed
1984 Pool cover motors
1984 Distance of GFCI protection extended to 20 feet from pool walls
1987 Unfinished basements
1987 Kitchen countertop receptacles within 6 feet of sink
1987 Boathouses
1990 Crawlspaces (with exception for sump pumps or other dedicated equip.)
1993 Wet bar countertops within 6 feet of sink
1993 Any receptacle replaced in an area presently requiring GFCI
1996 All kitchen counters not just those within 6 feet of sink
1996 All exterior receptacles except dedicated de-icing tape receptacle
1996 Unfinished accessory buildings at or below grade
1999 Exemption for dedicated equipment in crawlspace removed
75)
TEST RESET GROUND FAULT PROTECTED RECEPTACLES (GFCI) are special devices that help prevent electrocution.There is an electronic chip inside the receptacle that monitors current flow and shuts the power off when too much electricity is drawn through the receptacle with none returning to complete the circuit. It is suggested, and required by code in new construction, that these devices are installed where there is a greater risk of electrocution. They should be installed any where outside or near water, within six feet of sinks or other metal plumbing fixtures, basements, and appliances with power and exposed water like pools, whirlpools and hot tubs. These devices should be tested for proper operation
76)
GFCI
These special electrical devices shut the power off to a circuit when as little as .005 amp is leaking. Under normal circumstances, the current flowing through a circuit is the same at any point. That is to say, if there are 5 amps flowing through the black wire going out, there should be 5 amps flowing through the white wire coming back. If there is a flaw in the system, some electricity may be flowing to a dangerous spot, but there may not be enough flowing to blow a fuse or trip a breaker. For example, if the electrical insulation in an appliance is defective, there may be a small current leaking to the case of the appliance. Under normal circumstances, this would not be detected. However, this can become very dangerous if a person (particularly one who is not well insulated with rubber gloves or shoes, or who is perhaps wet) touches the case. A potentially fatal electrical current can flow through the person to ground. This creates an electrical shock hazard. A ground fault circuit interrupter prevents this from happening by comparing the electricity going out through the black wire against that coming in through the white wire. If the difference is more than .005 amp, the system will be shut off .These devices may be incorporated into a circuit breaker, or into an electrical outlet. Most codes require their use on outdoor outlets and bathroom outlets. The NEC in the USA requires GFI protection for kitchen counter outlets within six feet of a sink. They do make sense wherever water and electricity may be brought close together. For example, GFCI’s are also required on swimming pool and whirlpool electrical systems. Sometimes it is difficult to know how many electrical components in a house are protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter. It is possible to have several electrical outlets all protected by one ground fault circuit interrupter
77)
Some bulbs in light fixtures were missing. As a result, some light fixtures couldn't be fully evaluated. Recommend replacing bulbs to fully evaluate fixtures where necessary.
78)
Smoke detectors are not tested on my inspection. Government testing has shown that as many as one quarter of all smoke detectors in homes do not operate properly (1994-95 "National Smoke Detector Project"). This is true even when the units responded to a test button operation. Testing of smoke detectors will not provide definitive proof that the unit will respond as needed in the event of a fire. Causes of these response failures include batteries that were found to be dead or missing, the detector's vents becoming clogged with paint, dirt, dust or grease, and insects infesting the sensing chambers. The National Fire Protection Association recommends that battery powered detectors be tested weekly, and those powered by household current be tested monthly. There are aerosol smoke testers available that can be used to perform a more definitive test. Any smoke detectors that are over 10 years older have damaged test buttons should be replaced. For further information visit
<http://www.testproducts.com/fire_smoke/does_detector_work.htm>.
79)
Any electrical repairs attempted by anyone other than a licensed electrician should be approached with caution. The
power to the entire house should be turned off prior to beginning any repair efforts, no matter how trivial the repair may
seen. Aluminum wiring requires periodic inspection and maintenance by a licensed electrician. Operation of time clock
motors is not verified. Inoperative light fixtures often lack bulbs or have dead bulbs installed. Light bulbs are not
changed during the inspection, due to time constraints. Smoke Alarms should be installed within 15 feet of all bedroom
doors, and tested regularly.
80)
Even if all circuits and receptacles in your house are properly grounded, it is still possible for someone to get a serious, if not lethal, shock if they are standing on wet ground or holding a grounded metal pipe while they touch an appliance with a metal housing which happens to be charged with current because of an internal short. It is true that the fuse or circuit breaker may blow, but in a fraction of a second it takes for this to happen, enough current could flow through your body (on its way to the ground) and give you a serious shock. A properly operating Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter device could be very well save your life should this occur.
GFCI breakers, whether actual breakers in the service panel or circuit beaker receptacles, which continuously monitor the amount of current flowing in each conducting wire (both hot and actual). Normally it would be exactly the same, and the GFCI would do nothing. In the event there is the slightest amount of current leaks out to ground, through the ground wire, or through human contact, there will be more current flowing in one wire than the other. When the GFCI senses this, even if the difference is only a few thousandths of an ampere, and if the breaker is not defective, it should immediately shut off all current flow. It does this in about 1/40th of a second-much faster than would a fuse or circuit breaker, and long before enough current can flow to ground to cause bodily harm.
There are several different types of ground fault circuit interrupters. One type is a combination circuit breaker and GFCI which is installed in the service panel in place of a regular circuit breaker-it usually has a small light -color test button on it. It protects the entire circuit, a safeguard which can be a nuisance when installed in older buildings. It will shut off the power to that entire circuit even when very slight internal leakage to ground occurs, as is "normal" for many older buildings that have not been rewired, even though there is no real hazard.
Another type of GFCI is the receptacle type which is installed in place of the conventional receptacle outlet. It has a reset and a test button usually placed between the tow outlet ports. It protects anything plugged into a particular outlet, and depending on the model, will protect all other outlets which are "downstream" from it, but not those outlets which are between the two ports. This method is common in many modern buildings. Often in single-family residences the "main" GFCI outlet will be found in the garage, or bathroom, or on an exterior wall.
Another type of GFCI is the portable type which merely plugs into an existing three-prong grounded outlet and converts that receptacle to a ground fault protected receptacle.
Some models also come with extension cords for use around the outlet, or in damp locations. GFCI protected receptacles should be installed even though they may not have been required when the building was originally wired. Installation of this safety device is an upgrade which is definitely worth having. GFCI outlets and breakers can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement center, lumber yard or electrical supplier.
Be sure that the electricity is turned off before attempting any repairs. If you are unsure of how to properly install a GFCI outlet, you are advised to contact an electrical contractor. If you intend to make the conversions yourself you are strongly advised to purchase and read one of the many handbooks on simple electricity.
GFCI protections are required in today's construction at several different locations around the property. Those locations are set forth in the National Electric Code (NEC). Some municipalities will require even more to be located then is required by NEC.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: private wells and sewage disposal systems; main, side and lateral sewer lines; gray water systems; pressure boosting systems; incinerating or composting toilets; fire suppression sprinkler systems; water softeners, conditioners or filtering systems; plumbing components concealed within the foundation or building structure, or in inaccessible areas such as below tubs; underground utilities and systems; overflow drains for tubs and sinks; backflow prevention devices. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not operate water supply or shut-off valves due to the possibility of valves leaking or breaking when operated. The inspector does not test for lead in the water supply, the water pipes or solder, does not determine if plumbing and fuel lines are adequately sized, and does not determining the existence or condition of underground or above-ground fuel tanks.
Condition of service and main line: Appeared serviceable
water Meter location: Left front basement
Main water shut off: With meter
Water service: Public
Water pressure (psi): approx 53 lbs
Service pipe material: Galvanized steel
Vent pipe material: Copper
Waste pipe material: Copper
Condition of supply lines: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Supply pipe material: Copper
Condition of waste lines: Appeared serviceable
Waste pipe material: Cast iron, Copper
Condition of fuel system: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Location of main fuel shut: at gas meter
81)
Gas was determined to be leaking at the following locations based on gas odors, gas detector readings: connections At boiler. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of explosion. A qualified contractor and/or the gas utility company should evaluate and repair immediately.
82)
Copper water supply pipes in buildings built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions such as these may be advised:
Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
Install appropriate filters at points of use.
Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
Use bottled or distilled water.
Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary.
For more information visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5056.html
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html
83)
One or more sections of water supply pipes were loose or had substandard support. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary, and as per standard building practices.
84)
All water supply pipes in the basement were uninsulated. Recommend insulating pipes as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency and to prevent water pipes from freezing.
85)
One or more outside faucets were not the "frost-free" design, and are more likely to freeze during cold weather. Recommend having a qualified plumber upgrade these with frost-free faucets to prevent freezing and pipes bursting.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: solar water heating systems; circulation systems. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not provide an estimate of remaining life on water heaters, does not determine if water heaters are appropriately sized, or perform any evaluations that require a pilot light to be lit.
Condition of water heater: Appeared serviceable
Type: Tank
Estimated age: new in 11/09 --S/N-GELN1109A18897
Energy source: Natural gas
Capacity (in gallons): 30
Manufacturer: General Electric
Model: GG30S06AVG00
Location: Basement
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 112-116
Condition of burners: Appeared serviceable
Condition of venting system: Appeared serviceable
Condition of combustion air supply: Appeared serviceable
86)
GE.
GAS HOT WATER HEATER PRESENT: The domestic hot water in this home is
produced by a standard gas fired hot water heater.
In my opinion, a gas fired hot water heater is a desirable means of making hot water
due to its fast recovery rate. Most such appliances have capacities or 30, 40 or 50
gallons, and an average service life of between 7-10 years. As a home owner, you
should expect future replacement of this appliance, you should understand its
operational controls and which parts to monitor for maintenance and safety.
Firstly, there is a cold water supply pipe leading to the tank with a shut-off valve near
the tank to isolate it during maintenance or replacement. There should also be a
small vacuum breaker valve after the shut-off valve to protect the public water supply
from back-flow contamination.
The tank itself may be composed of different interior components such as copper,
glass lined, stainless steel, etc. - all of which present differing warranty time periods
per each manufacturer.
The cold water enters the tank as water exits the tank, and is directed toward the
base of the tank where a gas heater elevates the temperature of the water to the
desired setting on the temperature control box. For energy conservation reasons, you
should experiment by adjusting the control knob to the lowest setting at which you
can still obtain adequate hot water and never above 130 degrees F. to prevent
personal injury by scalding.
A second pipe also exits the top of the hot water heater distributing hot water to the
fixtures & faucets. To prevent heat loss, this pipe should be fully insulated. You can
easily distinguish which pipe is the cold water supply pipe and which is the hot water
pipe simply by feeling the two or by reading the stamped labels at the top of the tank.
A gas pipe also is connected to the hot water heater. Usually this pipe is composed
of black iron for strength. You should locate a shut off valve in the gas piping followed
by a union fitting and a drip leg "T" before the pipe is connected to the gas valve. The
gas shut-off valve is necessary to shut-down the appliance during service or
replacement.
Most gas fired hot water heaters have a pilot that remains lighted to ignite the main
burner when hot water is called for. Occasionally, pilots blow out due to back-drafting
of air down the chimney or during power failures. If the pilot should go out, follow the
manufacturer's posted directions for re-lighting the pilot. If the pilot will not stay
lighted, then a safety device known as the thermocouple probably needs maintenance
replacement.
The tank also has two other attached devices of which you should be familiar. At the
base of the tank, there is a drain valve for flushing sediment or for emptying the tank.
Draining accumulated minerals from the base of the tank several times a year will aid
the rate of heat transfer and thereby improve fuel efficiency. (Note: Be advised that a
seldom used drain valve may not seal tightly when closed - be alert for drip leaks.
Near the top six inches of the tank is a primary safety device known as the
temperature / pressure relief valve. The relief valve is designed to open and quickly
eject excess temperature and pressure should the hot water malfunction. The relief
valve should have a 3/4 inch dia. drain pipe directed towards the floor to prevent
personal injury if the valve should open. While there is a trip lever on the valve for
testing its function, be advised that tripping the valve may leave a drip leak as it
closes. I advise the placement of a small bucket beneath the drain pipe.
Combustion gas exits the top of the tank and then rises to the chimney via metal
connector piping. Be advised that any signs of scorching on the draft deflector, pipe
fittings or insulation near the draft deflector or gas burner may indicate that
combustion gases are not properly venting to the outdoors and that back-drafting is
suspected. Back-drafting of combustion gases can allow deadly carbon monoxide to
enter the home.
DANGER! GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SHOULD NEVER BE
STORED NEAR THE OPEN FLAME OF A GAS FIRED HOT WATER HEATER.
INSULATION BLANKETS SHOULD NEVER COVER THE BURNER CONTROLS OR
TOUCH THE FLUE PIPE AS EITHER COULD CAUSE FIRE.
THINGS TO WATCH WHICH MAY INDICATE NEEDED REPAIR OR
REPLACEMENT:
1. Watch the pipe connections to the tank for signs of corrosion.
2. Watch the cold water shut-off valve & vacuum breaker & relief valve for signs of
corrosion or drip leaks.
3. Watch the ring or metal joint around the perimeter of the base of the tank for signs
of corrosion.
4. Watch for accumulations of debris in the burner area.
5. Watch for scorching marks at the draft deflector and burner area.
6. Watch for back-drafting problems.
7. Watch for leaks.
8. Watch for corrosion of the connector piping leading the the chimney.
9. Watch for diminished hot water.
Photo 98
|
|
87)
Based on the capacity of the water heater, the number of bedrooms in this structure and the number of occupants expected to live in this structure, this water heater may be undersized. The client should consult with a qualified plumbing contractor or water heater distributor for more information, and may wish to upgrade the size of the water heater.[ 4 bedrooms with 2 bathrooms usually requires a 50 gallon hit water heater ]
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters; solar, coal or wood fired heat systems; thermostat or temperature control accuracy and timed functions; heating components concealed within the building structure or in inaccessible areas; underground utilities and systems; safety devices and controls (due to automatic operation). Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not provide an estimate of remaining life on heating system components, does not determine if heating systems are appropriately sized, or perform any evaluations that require a pilot light to be lit. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if furnace heat exchangers are intact and free of leaks.
Condition of heating system: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Location of heating system: Basement
Heating type: Circulating pump, Baseboard, Hot water 3 zone valves
Fuel type: Natural gas
Approximate BTUs: 120000
Manufacturer: Burnham
Model: Holiday
Condition of burners: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below) Dirty
Condition of venting system: Appeared serviceable
Condition of combustion air supply: Appeared serviceable
Condition of distribution system: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Distribution system: Pipes and convectors
Condition of controls: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
88)
Anti back flow valve was not installed at water feed line. This valve prevent boiler water from back flowing into drinking water if for any reason the main house water pressure drops below boiler water pressure. Recommend installing valve. consult with a qualified plumber for necessary repairs.
Photo 65
|
|
89)
The last service date of this system appeared to be more than one year ago, or the inspector was unable to determine the last service date. The client should ask the property owner when it was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
90)
The estimated useful life for most cast iron boilers is 30 years. This boiler appeared to be approx this age and/or its useful lifespan and may need replacing or significant repairs at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
91)
Leaks were found in one or more distribution system fittings [ green color ]. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Photo 60
|
Photo 61
|
92)
The heating system's circulation pump has beem leaking at flanges [ rust ]. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 53
|
|
93)
The expansion tank appeared to be waterlogged. Water may be discharged from the pressure relief valve as a result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, by draining and re-pressurizing the tank.
Photo 52
|
|
94)
One or more sections of distribution pipes were loose or had substandard support. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary, and as per standard building practices.
Photo 62
|
|
95)
One or more convectors were damaged. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
96)
The thermostats were missing covers[2]. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 48
|
Photo 89
|
97)
BX wire to circulator pump is damaged and loose. Recommend repairs by a qualified electrician.
Photo 54
|
|
98)
All distribution pipes in the basement were uninsulated. A qualified person should install insulation in unconditioned spaces as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency.
Photo 57
|
|
99)
The convecting fins on one or more convectors were dirty. A qualified person should clean fins as necessary.
100)
At the time of inspection, I did
NOT observe any recent maintenance tags posted near or on the furnace.or boiler
The lack of tags may indicate that heating system maintenance has been
postponed. Regardless of type or fuel source, all heating systems should receive
annual servicing and inspection by a licensed HVAC or oil burner technician. Systems not
serviced and inspected may continue to operate, but they do so at a reduced fuel
efficiency and reduced safety level.
Recommendation: In my opinion, you should have the furnace and boiler professionally serviced
and inspected as soon as you move into the home and then establish an annual
service date thereafter to insure efficient and safe function.
Photo 55
Clean gas tubes recommend at least every 2 yrs.
|
|
101)
FORCED HOT WATER HEAT EXPLANATION: Forced hot water heating represents state of the art
technology in terms of efficiency and comfort. Such systems may be fueled by oil or gas and require
little owner maintenance, but each should be inspected and serviced annually by a licensed
technician.
Analysis: The heart of the system is the boiler, which may be composed of steel or cast iron.
(Note: A cast iron boiler is preferable as the service life is far superior to a steel boiler.) The boiler
provides the hot water when a thermostat calls for heat. The heated water is distributed through small
diameter piping until it reaches wall convectors or baseboard heaters. The hot water continues to flow
until the thermostat is satisfied, then the water is recirculated back to the boiler for re-use again. One
of the greatest features of a forced hot water heating system is that the home can easily be divided
into different thermostatically controlled comfort zones.
Regardless of the type of boiler, certain parts of the boiler have shorter design lifespans than the
boiler itself and should be monitored for eventual maintenance replacement. Such parts include:
Burner
Fire chamber liner
Gas valve
Thermocouple
Circulator pump
Air vent valves
Zone valves
Relief valve
Back-flow preventer valve
Fill-valve
Control relay
Drain valve
Expansion tankFlue pipe
Gaskets
Recommendation: You should buy a heating system maintenance plan with a local heating company.
Such a plan should include an annual safety inspection, cleaning, tune-up and parts replacement.
Thermostat
Photo 95
|
|
102)
The typical life of a cast iron boiler is thirty to fifty years. Some will last longer and others will fail prematurely. The quality of the unit, the amount of use it receives and maintenance will affect the failure date. This is a mechanical device that will eventually fail; it is a machine and unexpected problems can cause damage at any age.
103)
How can I guard against carbon monoxide poisoning?
The first line of defense is to have your home heating systems, fuel burning appliances, flues and chimneys checked and/or cleaned annually.
Inspection checklist:
Specialists should check for:
• Blocked openings to flues and chimneys
• Cracked, rusted, or disconnected flue pipes
• Dirty filters
• Rusted or cracked heat exchangers
• Soot or creosote build-up inside fireplaces and chimney flues
• Exhaust or gas odors.
• Attached garages require gas proofing and automatic closers for doors into the home
• Adequate combustion air
• Adequate venting on indoor combustion appliances (i.e-gas stoves)
The second line of defense is a CO detector.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: coal stoves, gas logs, chimney flues (except where visible). Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of drafting or sizing in fireplace and stove flues, nor determine if prefabricated or zero clearance fireplaces are installed in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications. The inspector does not perform any evaluations that require a pilot light to be lit.
Condition of fireplaces, stoves: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Location #A: Living room
Fireplace type: Masonry
Fuel type: Wood
Condition of chimneys: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Chimney type: Masonry
104)
Creosote was visible in flue(s) at location # A. A qualified contractor should inspect, clean, and repair if necessary now and annually in the future. Recommend cleaning before using.
Photo 47
|
|
105)
One or more chimney flues do not have a screened cover installed. Screened covers prevent the following:
Fire hazard from wood fire sparks and embers exiting flues
Wildlife (birds, rodents, raccoons, etc.) entering flues
Rainwater entering flues and mixing with combustion deposits, creating caustic chemicals which can corrode flues
Rainwater entering flues and causing damage to terracotta flue tiles from freeze-thaw cycles
A qualified chimney service contractor should install screened cover(s) where missing. Screens should have holes 1/4 inch or larger.
Photo 29
|
|
106)
The damper at location #A was hard to operate. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
107)
The masonry chimney at location #A showed evidence of deterioration, including cracked bricks. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Photo 28
|
|
108)
All solid fuel burning appliances (woodstoves and fireplaces,should be inspected annually by a qualified chimney service contractor, cleaned and repaired as necessary.[ recommend a level 2 chimney / fireplace inspection when moving into a new home ]
109)
“There are a wide variety of chimneys, which represent an even wider variety of interrelated components that comprise them. However, there are three basic types: single-walled metal, masonry, and pre-fabricated metal ones that are commonly referred to as factor-built ones. Single-walled metal ones should not be confused with factory-built metal ones, and are rarely found in residential use, but masonry and factory-built ones are a commonplace. Our inspection of them is that of a generalist, not a specialist, and meets industry standards. However, significant areas of chimney flues cannot be adequately viewed during a field inspection, as has been documented by the Chimney Safety Institute of America, which reported in 1992: ‘The inner reaches of a flue are relatively inaccessible, and it should not be expected that the distant oblique view from the top or bottom is adequate to fully document damage even with a strong light.’ Therefore, because our inspection of chimneys is limited to those areas that can be viewed without dismantling any portion of them, and does not include the use of specialized equipment, we will not guarantee their integrity and recommend that they be video-scanned before the close of escrow.” http://www.thefireplacechannel.com/articles/article/3679544/55112.htm
110)
Ashes obscured the firebox at location #A. The inspector was unable to fully evaluate.
Photo 46
|
|
111)
Creosote is a carbon-based solid that is deposited inside the fireplace. There are different stages of creosote: first stage is a black powdery substance (soot), second stage is crunchy, third stage is a shiny glaze. Creosote is highly combustible and causes severe chimney fires. In order to have a fire, you must have fuel (wood) and air. Fireplaces that do not have the means to restrict air, such as glass doors, are not likely to have creosote buildup. Creosote only develops when the fire cannot get enough air to properly burn the wood. Reducing the amount of air will cause the fire to burn at a lower temperature. Fires that burn at approximately 1100 degrees Fahrenheit or less will not burn hot enough to eliminate the creosote. Cooler burning fires allow the creosote to rise up the chimney with the smoke. As the creosote cools, it condenses and attaches itself to the chimney walls. Excessive creosote can also be caused by burning wet, or unseasoned wood
112)
How can I guard against carbon monoxide poisoning?
The first line of defense is to have your home heating systems, fuel burning appliances, flues and chimneys checked and/or cleaned annually.
Inspection checklist:
Specialists should check for:
• Blocked openings to flues and chimneys
• Cracked, rusted, or disconnected flue pipes
• Dirty filters
• Rusted or cracked heat exchangers
• Soot or creosote build-up inside fireplaces and chimney flues
• Exhaust or gas odors.
• Attached garages require gas proofing and automatic closers for doors into the home
• Adequate combustion air
• Adequate venting on indoor combustion appliances (i.e-gas stoves)
The second line of defense is a CO detector.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: free-standing or portable appliances such as dishwashers, trash compactors, refrigerators, freezers, ice makers; specialty appliances such as hot water dispensers, water filters and trash compactors; appliance timers, clocks, cook functions, self and/or continuous cleaning operations, thermostat or temperature control accuracy, and lights. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not provide an estimate of the remaining life of appliances, and does not determine the adequacy of operation of appliances such as dishwashers, garbage disposals, trash compactors, ovens, broilers, etc.
Condition of counters: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of cabinets: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of sinks and related plumbing: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of dishwasher: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of range, cooktop: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Range, cooktop type: Electric
Condition of refrigerator: Appeared serviceable
Condition of built in microwave: Appeared serviceable
113)
The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appeared to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/remodeling/article/0,1797,HGTV_3659_2017492,00.html
Photo 68
|
|
114)
Kitchen sink drain had substandard repairs, such as tape, sealant and/or non-standard components. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Photo 69
|
|
115)
The dishwasher drain line was not configured with a "high loop" or "air gap". A high loop is created by routing the drain line up to the bottom surface of the counter top above, and securely fastening it to that surface. It is meant to prevent water from siphoning out of the dishwasher, and to prevent water from the sink drain or food disposal from entering the dishwasher. Some dishwashers have a built-in high loop where one is not required to be configured in the drain line. The client should try to determine if a high loop is required for this brand and model of dishwasher (review installation instructions, etc.). If one is required, or it cannot be determined if one is not required, then a qualified contractor should install a high loop as per standard building practices.
Also, no "air gap" was installed. Air gaps are another device meant to prevent water from the sink drain or food disposal from entering the dishwasher. These are required in some municipalities for new construction and when remodeling. The client should consult with a qualified contractor to determine if an air gap should be installed.
Photo 72
|
Photo 99
|
116)
Some cabinet surfaces, drawers and/or doors showed moderate wear, deterioration. Missing and damaged drawer front[s]
Photo 94
|
|
117)
Stains were found in the shelving or cabinet components below kitchen sink. Plumbing leaks may have occurred in the past. Recommend consulting with the property owner about this, and if necessary, having a qualified person evaluate and repair.
118)
Some counters showed minor wear. Cracked tile behind countertop, Backsplash was deteriorated.
119)
Kitchen sink sprayer did not work.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: overflow drains for tubs and sinks; bidets, heated towel racks, saunas, steam generators, clothes washers, clothes dryers. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of washing machine drain lines, washing machine catch pan drain lines, or clothes dryer exhaust ducts. The inspector does not operate water supply or shut-off valves for sinks, toilets, bidets, clothes washers, etc. due to the possibility of valves leaking or breaking when operated. The inspector does not determine if shower pans or tub and shower enclosures are water tight, or determine the completeness or operability of any gas piping to laundry appliances.
Location #A: 1st floor
Location #B: 2nd floor
Condition of counters: Appeared serviceable
Condition of cabinets: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of sinks and related plumbing: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of toilets: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of bathtubs and related plumbing: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of shower(s) and related plumbing: Appeared serviceable
Condition of ventilation systems: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of laundry facilities: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Washing machine operated.: none
Dryer operated: none
Gas supply for laundry equipment present: Not determined
240 volt receptacle for laundry equipment present: Yes
120)
The inspector was unable to verify that the glass used in one or more doors by the shower at location #B was approved safety glass. Glazing that is not approved safety glass located in areas subject to human impact is a safety hazard. Standard building practices require that approved safety glass be used in enclosures for bathtubs, showers, spas, saunas and steam rooms, and in windows where the bottom edge of the window is less than 60 inches above the drain inlet or standing surface. Wire-reinforced glass is not acceptable. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace glass if necessary, and as per standard building practices.
121)
The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html
Photo 59
|
|
122)
The toilet at location #A, B was loose. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new wax ring should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.
123)
The bathroom with a shower at location #A, B didn't have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture accumulation will occur and may damage the structure. Even if the bathroom has a window that opens, it likely does not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when the window is closed. A qualified contractor should install exhaust fans as per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers.
124)
The sink drain stopper mechanism at location #A was missing. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 50
|
|
125)
Dryer vents usually should be cleaned of lint at least annually and more often as the need arises. You can tell if the vent is getting clogged if the clothing is taking an unusually long time to dry. Also, you can tell if the airflow at the exhaust end of the duct is very low. The best type of dryer vent material is a rigid type with sections taped together as opposed to screwed together so that lint will not collect on any screw points that penetrate the duct material. Runs of the vent should be as short and straight as possible. Dryer fires are not uncommon and dryer vent restriction is one cause of dryer fires.
126)
Cabinet surfaces, drawers and/or doors showed minor wear at location #A.
127)
Minor wear was found at the bathtub at location #A, B.
Photo 83
chip in tub
|
|
128)
International Mechanical Code" specifically states on "Section 504.3 Cleanout - Every vertical riser shall be provided with a means of cleanout." The intent of this code element is to provide an accessible means to remove the lint accumulation that would fall vertically (settle) to a low spot in the vertical run.
Dryer Venting Guidelines
All dryer ducting must be a minimum of 4" in diameter. Clean, unobstructed, frictionless ducts encourage air flow efficiency, quickens drying times, adds longevity to clothing's life and reduces utility bills.
Flexible transition hose between the dryer and the wall outlet should be either the foil type or the aluminum flexible duct (most preferred). Do not use the plastic or vinyl.
Concealed ducting must be rigid metal (galvanized or aluminum) duct.
Duct joints shall be installed so that the male end of the duct points in the direction of the airflow.
Joints should be secured with metal tape (not duct tape). Do not use rivets or screws in the joints or anywhere else in the duct as these will encourage lint collection.
Length of concealed rigid metal ducting shall not exceed 25 feet. Deduct 5 feet from the allowable length for every 90 degree elbow and two and a half feet for every 45 degree fitting. These lengths may vary per local codes and dryer manufacturers recommendations.
Dryer venting shall be independent of any other systems (chimneys or exhaust vents)
Termination of dryer venting must be to the exterior with a proper hood or roof jack equipped with a backdraft damper. Small orifice metal screening should not be part of the hood or roof jack as this will catch lint and block the opening in a very short time. The hood opening should point down and exhibit 12 inches of clearance between the bottom of the hood and the ground or other obstruction.
Tip to make it easier to attach Aluminum Flex: Flatten aluminum flex with pipe like dough roller, click here to see image.
Actually inspect the termination port of the dryer and the wall or roof jack. Look for birds nest or clogged openings. Most importantly, feel for proper exit velocity of the air leaving the vent and look at or feel the interior walls of the duct.
If you suspect clogged or partially clogged exhaust ducting, it is likely you need to have them cleaned. Dryer vent cleaning improves the safety and efficiency and depending on the venting circumstances, should be cleaned or inspected every 6-12 months.
Make sure your flex transition hose is not kinked or crushed. The space behind your dryer should be sufficient as to provide adequate room for the flex transition hose to make its bends with minimal deflection and restrictions.
Dryer vent cleaning is a very real commercial trade and the contracted work is sometimes described as Routine and Problem Cleaning. Routine cleaning is done from the outside by sending an air-propelled "jet-snake" through the vent. It blows air 360 degrees backwards, blasting the lint loose and blowing it outside. The lint is caught in a special bag.
Problem Cleaning is performed when an individual dryer is not drying clothes fast enough. They disconnect and pull the dryer out, install a large blower on the vent, and blow, brush, vacuum and/or dismantle - whatever it takes to get the vent clean.
Look in your Yellow Pages under Duct Cleaning or search the Internet.
The use of the white vinyl flex pipe is all but completely prohibited, both by building departments and appliance manufacturers. Some municipalities allow or do not discourage the foil covered vinyl flex but almost all appliance manufacturers insist on the use of the aluminum flexible pipe. Keep exhaust duct as straight and short as possible. Exhaust systems longer than the manufacturer's recommendations can extend drying times, affect appliance operation and may encourage lint build-up on pipe lining.
Limitations: The following items are not included in this inspection: security, intercom and sound systems; communications wiring; central vacuum systems; elevators and stair lifts; sources of obnoxious odors; cosmetic deficiencies due to normal wear and tear in wall, floor and ceiling surfaces and coverings, or in equipment; deficiencies relating to interior decorating; low voltage and gas lighting systems. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only. Note that the inspector does not evaluate any areas or items which require moving stored items, furnishings, debris, equipment, floor coverings, insulation or similar materials. The inspector does not test for asbestos, lead, radon, mold, hazardous waste, urea formaldehyde urethane, or any other toxic substance. Some items such as window operability are tested on a sampled basis. The client should be aware that paint may obscure wall and ceiling defects, floor coverings may obscure floor defects, and furnishings may obscure wall, floor and floor covering defects. If furnishings were present during the inspection, recommend a full evaluation of walls, floors and ceilings that were previously obscured when possible. Determining the cause of odors is not within the scope of this inspection.
Exterior door material: Metal, Sliding glass
Condition of exterior entry doors: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Condition of interior doors: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Type of windows: Multi, Casement, Double hung
Condition of windows: Required repair, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Wall type or covering: Drywall
Condition of walls: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Ceiling type or covering: Drywall
Condition of ceilings: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
Flooring type or covering: Carpet, Vinyl, Wood
Condition of flooring: Required repairs, replacement and/or evaluation (see comments below)
129)
This structure was built prior to 1979 and may contain lead paint. Laws were enacted in 1978 in the US preventing the use of lead paint in residential structures. Lead is a known safety hazard, especially to children but also to adults. Numerous areas of the paint found in and around this structure are in poor condition (peeling, flaking, etc.). Recommend consulting with a qualified industrial hygienist to determine the safest and most cost-effective action to take regarding the paint. Testing and/or abatement may be necessary. Also recommend following precautions as described in the following links to Consumer Products Safety Commission website articles regarding possible lead paint:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5054.html
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5055.html
Photo 76
|
|
130)
Post at stairs were loose. This is a safety hazard. A qualified contractor should make repairs as necessary. For example, installing new fasteners and/or hardware so handrails are securely attached.
131)
Many ceiling areas in this structure had ceiling texture possibly installed prior to 1980. This material may contain asbestos, which is a known carcinogen and poses a health hazard. Laws were passed in the United States in 1978 prohibiting use of asbestos in residential structures, but stocks of existing materials have been known to be used for some time thereafter. The client may wish to have this ceiling material tested by a qualified lab to determine if it does contain asbestos.
In most cases, when the material is intact and in good condition, keeping it encapsulated with paint and not disturbing it may reduce or effectively eliminate the health hazard. If the client wishes to remove the material, or plans to disturb it through remodeling, they should have it tested by a qualified lab and/or consult with a qualified industrial hygienist or asbestos abatement specialist. For more information, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/453.html
132)
One or more sliding glass doors were deteriorated. A qualified person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 43
|
Photo 44
|
133)
Stairs / step to 2nd floor was damaged. recommend repairs.
Photo 74
|
|
134)
One or more exterior doors had minor rust damage, deterioration. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary. garage
Photo 13
|
|
135)
The threshold is missing / loose from garage exterior entry door. A qualified person should install thresholds and weatherstripping where missing, and as per standard building practices, to prevent water and vermin intrusion.
Photo 42
|
|
136)
The weatherstrip around one or more exterior entry doors is deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be replaced where deteriorated by a qualified person.
Photo 35
|
|
137)
Screens in one or more exterior doors were damaged. A qualified person should replace screens where necessary.
Photo 11
|
|
138)
The lock mechanisms on the sliding glass door was inoperable. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.
Photo 45
|
|
139)
The front, back door's doorbell button was loose, damaged. A qualified person should repair or install as necessary.
Photo 2
|
Photo 10
|
140)
Some bedroom interior doors were missing. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary.[ 2nd floor bedrooms]
141)
Screen(s) in windows are torn or have holes in them. Screens should be replaced where necessary One basement window was missing glass.
Photo 19
|
Photo 20
|
142)
Trim was loose, damaged in areas. A qualified person should repair as necessary. walls and windowsills
Photo 81
|
Photo 84
|
143)
Wood flooring in some areas was significantly worn, A qualified contractor should refinish wood flooring as necessary.
Photo 36
|
|
144)
Vinyl flooring was damaged in some areas. A qualified person should repair or replace as necessary. Kitchen
Photo 67
|
|
145)
Carpeting in some areas was stained. A qualified contractor should replace as necessary
146)
Windows appear to be installed by a non-professonal. Windows had gaps at top,bottom and sides. Some were not square in their frames. Recommend consulting with a qualified contractor for necessary repairs.
Photo 18
|
Photo 82
|
Photo 85
|
|
147)
Storm/screen door[s] did not have closer or safety chain,
Photo 12
|
|
148)
Floor guides are missing at sliding closet doors.
Photo 86
|
|
149)
Minor cracks and/or holes were found in walls in one or more areas. They do not appear to be a structural concern, but the client may wish to repair these for aesthetic reasons.
Photo 87
|
Photo 90
|
150)
Minor cracks and/or holes were found in ceilings in one or more areas. They do not appear to be a structural concern, but the client may wish to repair these for aesthetic reasons. Note also several areas of poor workmanship.
151)
Stains were found in one or more ceiling areas. However, no elevated levels of moisture were found. The stain(s) may be due to past roof and/or plumbing leaks. Recommend asking the property owner about this, and monitoring the stained area(s) in the future, especially after heavy or prolonged rain. If elevated moisture is found in the future, a qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.[ garage ]
152)
The finished walls and ceilings cover the structure and related systems. Many situations can exist that are not able to be seen in this sort of inspection. Moisture infiltration, mold, wood destroying insect activity and improper assembly can not be detected, and are not covered by this home inspection. The furnishings restrict access to all finishes and components. The covered items can not be inspected
Limitations: This report only includes findings from accessible and visible areas on the day of the inspection. In addition to the inaccessible areas documented in this report, examples of other inaccessible areas include: sub areas less than 18 inches in height; attic areas less than five feet in height, areas blocked by ducts, pipes or insulation; areas where locks or permanently attached covers prevent access; areas where insulation would be damaged if traversed; areas obscured by vegetation. All inaccessible areas are subject to infestation or damage from wood destroying organisms. The inspector does not move furnishings, stored items, debris, floor or wall coverings, insulation, or other materials as part of the inspection, nor perform destructive testing. Wood destroying organisms may infest, reinfest or become active at anytime. No warranty is provided as part of this inspection.
153)
Recommend Pest and mold company evaluate for further recommendations .
154)
Household pests include a variety of crawling insects, arachnids and rodents that enter the home to feed, nest or breed. Some of these pests are wood destroying insects or organisms that can damage the home. Some present a health hazard by spreading bacteria or allergens in our homes. Others may be a health hazard because they bite or sting. Still others are nothing more than a nuisance. The National Pest Control Association says the 10 most common household pests are cockroaches, mice, rats, termites, ants and carpenter ants, fleas, dog ticks, spiders, and silverfish.
ENJOY YOUR NEW HOME/ INVESTMENT!
Plants, trees and shrubs should be at least 8 inches from exterior foundation and exterior walls to prevent moisture buildup and insect infestation.
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) should be within 6 feet of any interior water source and should be installed on all exterior outlets. Also recommend in basement and garage outlets.
Recommend installing carbon monoxide detectors in or near sleeping areas
Recommend checking operation of smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors monthly and replace batteries if equipped as needed or when changing clocks in the fall.
Recommend having septic system pumped every 2-3 years.
Recommend chimney caps with screens to prevent animals and debris from entering.
Recommend having home screened for Radon every 2 years
Recommend having home screened for wood eating insects and other pests yearly .
GROUNDS:
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to include site stability information or geological conditions. USFT (underground fuel storage tank) location determination is beyond the scope of this inspection. The inspector cannot determine the future stability of wood decks, patios or balconies. The current general condition is observed and reported without regard to current age or expected life. Subterranean drains are not evaluated.
EXTERIOR
Most slabs experience some degree of cracking as a result of shrinkage during the drying process. Most all cracks in the slabs, unless severe, are not visible or noticeable due to the floor covering. Floor coverings are not removed for this inspection. The inspector does not determine the effectiveness of any device or system installed to remove hazardous substances. No engineering calculations are performed during this inspection.
ROOF
Clay tiles, concrete tile and slate tile roofs are often not walked to avoid damage. Not all tiles can be checked for proper attachment. The report is an opinion of the general condition and general quality of the roof. The inspector cannot and does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof may be subject for future leakage. The inspector cannot offer an opinion of current leakage unless leakage occurs and is visible at the time of the inspection.
Gutters and subsurface drains are not water tested for leakage or blockage. Ongoing maintenance of roof drain systems is required to avoid water problems at the roof and foundation. Damage to roofs can occur when tenting a home for fumigation. Recommend inspection for damage after the fumigation (tenting) is completed. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine the presence of asbestos or other hazardous materials not specified. In the event the inspector notes "asbestos-like" material this is not a specific declaration of the presence of asbestos.
PLUMBING
Underground and wall hidden pipes cannot be judged for sizing, leaks, and corrosion or other damage / problems. Water quality testing and testing for hazardous material is not performed during this inspection. Sizing of pipes and adequacy determinations are not performed. Some polybutylene plastic piping supply systems have documented problems. Some ABS plastic drain systems have documented problems. Contact the polybutylene / ABS manufacturer or a plumbing expert for details regarding these problems. Underground pipes for sprinkler systems are not tested. Supply water pressure exceeding 80 psi can cause damage to fixtures and may result in leaks. Underground fuel supply lines and fuel tanks cannot be inspected nor judged. Fuel pipes inside walls concealed from view cannot be judged. The inspector does not determine sizing or adequacy of fuel lines.
The inspector is not required to do the following:
Operate a main shut-off valve. Inspect any system that has been shut down and secured. Inspect any components that are not readily accessible or visible. Inspect any exterior plumbing components such as private sewer systems, water wells, pressure tanks, sprinkler systems, spas, or swimming pools unless specifically contracted to do so by the customer. Inspect fire sprinkler systems. Inspect or operate drain pumps or waste ejector pumps. Inspect the quality / potability of water. Inspect water conditioning such as water softeners or water filters. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphoning devices. Determine proper sizing, design or use of proper materials in the system.
Water Heaters:
The inspector does not provide an estimate of remaining life of water heaters. Solar heating system heating elements are not inspected. The inspector does not activate pilot lights. If the pilot light is off, a complete inspection is not performed. A carbon monoxide test will be performed only for operational fuel burning systems.The water heater pressure relief valve is not tested. Manually opening this valve may result in leaking.The water heater shut-off valve, if present, is not operated. The inspector will not remove an insulation blanket to gain access to a water heater.
HEATING
The inspector does not activate pilot lights. If the pilot light is off, a complete inspection is not performed. A carbon monoxide test will be performed for operational fuel burning systems. It is recommended all homes having a fuel burning system should have a carbon monoxide detector installed. The inspector cannot thoroughly inspect many heat exchangers. Inspections to determine cracks or holes can only done by dismantling or other technical procedures. This is beyond the scope of the inspection. In some furnaces, due to the design, a thorough inspection is practically impossible. The inspector does not inspect furnace safety devices. Asbestos materials are commonly used in heating systems. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine the presence of asbestos. This is usually performed in the laboratory.
The inspector does not determine the efficiency or adequacy of the heating system. The inspector does not dismantle any equipment, controls or gauges. Accessories such as humidifiers, air purifiers, motorized dampers and heat reclaimers are not inspected.
The inspector will inspect wood burning heating systems only if that is the only source of heat. Solar heating systems are not inspected. Radiant systems and steam systems, which are not fired, are not inspected. Thermostats are not tested for calibration or times functions. Determining the adequacy of the system; the efficiency of the system; or the effectiveness of the distribution through the house is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Fuel oil, gas, and electric self-contained space heaters are not inspected. However, if an operating fuel oil / gas unit is present the inspector may at his / her discretion test for carbon monoxide and discuss safety issues with the customer. Any safety issues or lack of safety issues regarding space heaters is beyond the scope of this inspection. Humidifiers, dehumidifiers and electronic air cleaners / filtration units are beyond the scope of this inspection.
Capacity: The capacity of a fossil fuel heating unit is in BTU per hour (BTU / hr.). The capacity of an electric heating unit is in kilowatts per hour (kW /hr). 1 kW = 1000 watts = 3413 BTU / hr
The temperature measured at the output for forced air systems should be as follows:
ELECTRIC FORCED AIR HEAT = 85 - 105 degrees F
FUEL FORCED AIR HEAT = 105 - 145 degrees F
HEAT PUMP FORCED AIR HEAT = 80 - 90 degrees F
AIR COND.
No representation is made regarding line integrity or coolant charges since the inspector does not perform pressure tests on coolant systems. The inspector will not operate the cooling system if the outside temperature is less that 60 degrees (F).
Window or wall mounted and gas fired units are not inspected. Due to variations in the type of materials and construction methods the adequacy of the cooling system for this home is not determined specifically by the inspector, however the typical home requires one (1) ton (12,00 BTU) per 600 square feet. The inspector observes and reports when rust (oxidation) covers more than 25% of a component of the air conditioning system. This is done to inform the customer of potential problems, which may be caused by the deterioration. When this is reported, the customer should consider having an air conditioner specialist review the unit thoroughly. The TD measurement is the TEMPERATURE DIFFERENTIAL measurement between the input and output air. The usual range for normal operation is 14 to 22 degrees (F).
Pressure checks of system coolant and system coolant leaks are not checked. The inspector does not check the electric draw (current) or the system.
COOLING / HEATING DISTRIBUTION (DUCTS, VENT, FLUE)
The uniformity of the supply of conditioned air to the various parts of the structure is not calculated. The types of insulation material used for wrapping pipes, ducts, jackets and boilers are not determined. The inspector will not operate venting systems unless ambient temperatures or other circumstances, in the opinion of the inspector are conducive to safe operation without damage to the equipment. The inspector will not operate equipment outside its normal operating range as determined by the inspector.
ELECTRICAL
The inspector will not determine the adequacy of the electrical service for servicing the home. Six or fewer breakers may not require a main breaker. This could indicate minimum electrical capacity. A GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) is used for protection in wet areas (bath, kitchen, laundry, wet bar, etc.). These are safety devices. These may not be present in older homes. It is recommended this be upgraded, if not present. The inspector will not:
Determine the compliance to municipal or NEC electrical code. Dismantle any electrical device or control other than to gain access to visibly inspect electrical components.
Insert any tool, probe or testing device into the main or sub panels.
Activate electrical systems or branch circuits, which are not energized.
Operate overload protection devices.
Inspect any electrical equipment, which is not in a readily accessible area, or move furniture, stored items or appliances to inspect panels, wiring or connections.
Test all switches, receptacles or fixtures. A representative sample would be tested.
Remove switch or outlet cover plates.
Trace wiring origins or destinations.
Inspect ancillary systems such as wiring for telephones, audio / video systems, landscape lighting, intercom wiring and burglar alarm / security system wiring.
INTERIOR
The inspector does not determine the condition of thermopane windows due to weather, temperature and lighting variations. The condition of walls and framing behind wallpaper, drywall, paneling, other coverings and furniture cannot be determined. Determining the presence of asbestos in acoustic sprayed ceilings is beyond the scope of this inspection. The inspector will not determine the origin of odors or stains in carpets. The condition of wood flooring below carpets is not inspected. Firewall rating determination is beyond the scope of this inspection.
KITCHEN_LAUNDRY
The inspector does not check trash compactors. The inspector does not test washing machines and dryers other than for functional operation. The adequacy of the washer to wash clothes or the dryer to dry clothes is not tested. The condition of walls behind these units or floors under these units is not determined since the units are not moved during this inspection.
Self cleaning and continuous cleaning operations, timing devices, clocks, thermostat accuracy and lights are not checked during this inspection. The inspector will not move appliances. The ability of the dishwasher to wash dishes is not tested. The inspector does not test any device requiring the use of special keys, codes or combinations. The inspector does not operate programmable feature of devices.
POOL
The structural condition of the portions of Pool and Spa bodies not visible to the inspector is beyond the scope of this inspection. Also, leak and pressure testing of the Pool and Spa bodies is beyond the scope of this inspection.
*Underground piping is beyond the scope of this inspection.
*Pressure and leaking testing is not performed.
THIS REPORT IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT! REPRODUCTION, IMITATION, OR DUPLICATION OF THE REPORT WILL BE SUBJECT TO PENALTIES PROVIDED BY FEDERAL COPYRIGHT LAWS. WARNING….THIS REPORT CANNOT BE SOLD OR TRANSFERRED! The Client agrees to indemnify, defend and hold harmless Lighthouse Home Inspection Service from third party claims relating to this Inspection Report. You may share this report with your attorney, mortgage lender or buyer’s broker ONLY.
