Website: http://www.home-spec.com
Email: mike@home-spec.com
Phone: (705) 693-5000 · (705) 507-2474
FAX: (705) 693-1093
355 Goodwill Drive 
Garson, ON P3L 1E8
Inspector: Mike Gauthier

SAMPLE Inspection Report
Client(s):	Omitted
Property address:	Omitted
Inspection date:	Thursday, December 06, 2007

This report published on 12/9/2007 3:06:10 PM EST

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This report is the exclusive property of INSPEC and the client(s) listed in the report title.
INSPEC will NOT release this report to any individual or entity without written permission of its client.
Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.

A home inspection is not a pass/fail test, nor will an inspector return to verify that defects were corrected.

Defects noted within this report are in comparison to what is considered as ideal by the housing industry. Personal safety of occupants and structural integrity of the home are front of mind during evaluation.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a potential risk of injury or death
	Major defect	Correction likely involves a significant expense
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Repair/Maintain	Recommend repair and/or maintenance
	Minor defect	Correction likely involves only a minor expense
	Maintain	Recommend ongoing maintenance
	Evaluate	Recommend evaluation by a specialist
	Monitor	Recommend monitoring in the future
	Comment	For your information

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

Table of Contents
General information
Grounds
Exterior
Roof
Shed
Attic
Electric service
Water heater
Heating
Plumbing and laundry
Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys
Basement
Kitchen
Bathrooms
Interior rooms

General information

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Report number: xxx
Estimated age of building: 1986
Structures Inspected: Home Only
Type of building: Single family
Time started: 1:00PM
Time finished: 3:15PM
Inspection Fee (+GST): xxx.00
Payment method: Check
Present during the inspection: Client(s)
Occupancy: Not occupied, but furnishings and stored items were present
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Security system, Swimming pool, Shed, Low voltage outdoor lighting

Grounds

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Weather conditions: Cloudy
Outside Temperature: Cold (below zero celcius)
Ground condition: Frozen, Snow Covered
Front of structure faces: South-East
Main entrance faces: South-East
Driveway material: Paving stones
Sidewalk material: Paving stones

Exterior

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Foundation material: Concrete block
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Wall covering: Brick Front and Vinyl siding on sides and back
Exterior door material: Solid core steel

1) One or more wall-mounted exterior light fixtures have wiring that's subject to water intrusion due to caulk not being installed around the light fixture's back plate. Caulk should be applied around the perimeter of back plates where missing. A gap should be left at the bottom for condensation to drain out.

Photo 2

2) One or more outside faucets are missing backflow prevention devices. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing backflow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed. For more information, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_AE079
Also see [url=http://www.crd.bc.ca/water/crossconnection/DetailofIncidents.htm]

3) The structure appears to be experiencing what is known as differential settlement. This occurs when a portion of the structure settles more than another portion of the same structure. This is most commonly caused by: under-sized footing, poor soil compaction, undermining of soil under footings or breaks in the weeping system. The sump pit was evaluated for sand accumulation. All was fine there.

The inspector notes the following findings:

-one or more moderate cracks at the front center of the foundation,
-a moderate slope in the sight-line of the front brick mortar and cantilevered structure above,
-two moderate cracks in the rear center and LH portion of the foundation,
-a moderate slope in the sight-line of the rear brick mortar,
-repairs to one or more cracks that have re-opened,
-diagonal crack formations in the brick veneer, where the settlement is oriented downward,
-main floor structures slope downward toward the exterior, an example is the rear LH bedroom being off level at a rate of 1-1/2" over 12ft,
-no downpipe extensions at both terminations,
-a few repaired and repainted areas inside.

The inspector is very confident of this analysis and fears the settlement may be slowly ongoing. The inspector makes no comment as to what indeed caused this settlement.

At the time of the inspection, the inspector did not suspect concerns of collapse.

Client may wish to ask seller to have this further evaluated by a qualified structural engineer to determine, if possible, that the settlement is ongoing or not.

(NOTE: This evaluation was later validated by a structural eng.)

Photo 3	Photo 6   Repairs that have re-opened. The repairs are estimated to have been done about 10 years ago.
Photo 7	Photo 8   Direction of separation...
Photo 9   This crack is at the rear LH third of the building.	Photo 13   Using the overlap method, the floor slopes 1-1/2" over approx. 12'.
Photo 14   Hard to see in this photo, but this area slopes downward.	Photo 15   At the rear, the sloping starts here... above the crack of Photo 9

4) One or more deck structures are attached to the home and bears on non-footed blocks or pads resting on the ground.
The ground on which the deck is bearing may expand and/or compress; compromising the attachment to the home. This could place undue stress on the deck and home.
Recommend having a qualified contractor further evaluate this and repair/replace as necessary.

5) One or more downspouts have no extensions, or have extensions that are ineffective. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.

6) One or more exhaust duct end caps are damaged and/or deteriorated. Their purpose is to prevent unconditioned air from entering the house, and keep out birds, rodents and bugs. Blocked ducts can cause fan motors and/or clothes dryers to overheat and may pose a fire hazard. New vent cap(s) should be installed where necessary.

Photo 5

7) Although only a small portion of the fully snow-covered roof was cleared, the asphalt shingle roofing material could be dated just the same. The cleared portion appears to indicate the shingle are newer and not original.
However, like most systems within a home, roofing needs to be evaluated annually as to potential for leaks and maintained as necessary.
Things to look for include: loose or missing shingles, excessive curling, popped nails, ice damage, deterioration of the ceramic (stone) granular coating on the surface of the shingles, flashing, and dried/cracked tar at joints/transitions/protrusions etc.

Photo 10

8) The roof was completely obscured by snow and couldn't be fully evaluated.

9) The shed appeared to be in good form.

10) The attic access hatch was inaccessible due to the hatch being permanently closed. The inspector was unable to evaluate the attic space, and it is excluded from this inspection.
However, the inspector paid close attention to ceiling surfaces to determine clues that there may be issues with the attic insulation. No such clues were found.
Recommend modifying hatch as necessary to allow periodic evaluation of attic spaces.

Photo 12

11) Wire exiting electrical boxes of any kind must be attached to the surrounding structure within 12" from the box.
Recommend attaching all loose wires using appropriate wire staples or clamps.

12) The last service date of this system appears to be more than one year ago. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when it was last serviced. Either rented or owned water heaters need servicing and cleaning to ensure optimal and safe operation. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html

13) Sediment acculates at the bottom of water heaters, this sediment is sometimes disturbed by gusts of water usage leading to murky water at times.
It is good practice to drain a few gallons of water from the tank twice per year. This can be done by firmly attaching a garden hose to the bib at the side base of the water heater, leading the hose to a drain and opening the drain valve for a few seconds.
Note that this is best performed after the water has not flowed for several hours to ensure all sediment is at the very bottom of the tank. Early morning works for most.

If the heater is natural gas fired, be sure to keep the floor area under and around the heater clean and as dust-free as possible. Dust can get sucked in the air intake port at the very bottom on the heater causing clogs in the burnuer orifices and reduce the heater's efficiency.

14) The water heater was operated successfully.

15) A plug-in type CO detector is installed at this property.
Client should be aware that this unit may be removed when seller moves out; leaving client without such detector.
Technically, this plug-in type unit is not part of "real-estate".
Client should ensure that a CO detector is in operation once client moves in.

16) Also see “Interior Rooms"

17) No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection device is visible for the sump pump electric supply. A qualified electrician should determine if a GFCI protection device (receptacle or circuit breaker) exists for the sump pump and install one if missing to reduce the danger of electric shock.

18) The sump pump drain is much too long and discharges near the foundation wall. This defeats the purpose all together since water will easily return to the weeping system. Furthermore, the curled-up drin line will freeze and block.
Recommend diverting the drain line so that it terminates at least 10ft from the foundation wall.

Photo 4

19) The laundry sink is not anchored to the wall or floor. A qualified contractor should securely anchor the sink to the wall and/or floor to prevent damage to and leaks in the water supply and/or drain pipes due to the sink being moved.

20) The sump pump appeared to be inoperable. This is a conducive condition for water accumulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

21) The main water shut-off valve serves as an emergency stop for the pressurized water supply system. An improperly working main valve could lead to worse water damage should a pipe burst for example.
Recommend testing the valve annually by following these steps.
1. Slowly turn the valve handle clockwise until it seats,
2. Open a nearby faucet to observe that no water is available (this may take a minute to depresurize the lines),
3. Once satisfied that the valve actually stops the flow, slowly turn the valve counterclockwise until seated in the fully opened position,
4. "Unseat" the valve by closing it a 1/4 turn.

Should the flow continue at step 2, have a qualified plumber evaluate for repair or replacement of the defective valve.

22) Drains are provided with "P-traps" (downward u-shaped bend in the pipe below) that are designed to hold a small amount of water in the drain pipe. this water prevents sewer gases from entering the living space from drain pipes.
Note that if the home is to be vacated for more than one week, it is good practice to insert drain plugs into all sink drains so as to prevent water in the traps from evaporation, thus opening the seal.

23) Garden hose bibs installed at the exterior need to be bled (removing water from the exterior portion of the water pipe) prior to cold weather each year. Follow these steps to bleed such bibs;
1) turn the inside shut-off valve OFF,
2) turn the exterior bib valve ON,
3) a small nipple valve is located at the side of most inside shut-off valves. Opening this valve with release the water from the exterior portion of the pipe gravitationally. Use a small container to capture this water as it drips from the nipple valve.
4) once bled, close the nipple valve.

To reinstate use upon warmer weather, simply:
1) turn OFF the exterior bib valve,
2) turn ON the inside shut-off valve.

Note: failing to winterize exterior water lines can result in pipe bursting.

24) Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.

25) A sump pump is installed on the premises. This may indicate that water accumulates inside or below the structure. Recommend asking the property owners how often the sump pump operates and for how long at different times of the year. Also, the clients should be aware that the service life of most sump pumps is between five and seven years, and that the pump may need replacing soon depending on its age and how much it operates.
That said, I recommend the following as a precautionary measure:
-Install a flood alarm at or just below the floor level so as to enable audible notification of pump failure. Alarms can be found at [url=http://www.nextag.com/flood-alarm/search-html] most building centers.
-purchase a spare pump and adapt it with similar connective configuration to enable quick exchange when needed.
This may cost approximately $150.00 but is money well spent!

26) The glass on one or more gas fireplaces and/or stoves has a hazy film. This is typically a mineral residue left from water vapor as the gas burns. It may be possible to clean this fogging by removing the glass from the fireplace and using a gas appliance ceramic glass cleaner, available through gas fireplace and stove distributors and installers. Ammonia-based products, such as common glass cleaners should not be used since they may cause damage or etching to the glass, or make the haze permanent.

It may be possible for a homeowner to remove the glass for cleaning, depending on if the instructions or manual for the fireplace are available, and if the homeowner is experienced in such repairs. Recommend consulting with a gas fireplace installation contractor for more information, or to have them do the cleaning.

27) The fireplace was operated successfully.

28) One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

29) Cover plate(s) are broken at one or more electrical boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be replaced where necessary.

30) Part of the basement floor is built-up with a sub-floor and could not be evaluated.
Water intrusion, rot or mold may exist under this subfloor and could not be determined by the inspector at the time of the inspection.
The inspector however, made careful observation for clues that may lead to suspisious conditions but did not reveal reasons to believe a problem exsists.

31) One or more electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.

32) One or more exhaust fans is inoperable or provides inadequate air flow. Moisture may accumulate as a result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace the fan or make repairs as necessary.

33) The basement bathroom exhaust fan is terminated within the basement laundry room.
This practice underminds the effort emphasized for home ventilation.
Eccess moisture in the basement may eventually lead to mildew, rot and eventually structural issues.
Recommend redirecting exhausts to the outside, preferably away from windows and doors.

Photo 11

34) Caulk is missing or deteriorated around the base of one or more bathtub spouts. It should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to wall structures.

35) The basement bathroom was in good form.

36) One or more electric baseboard heaters are installed with an electric receptacle located above. Insulation on appliance cords in contact with the heater(s) may be damaged by the heat. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, converting receptacles to junction boxes, moving receptacles and/or moving baseboard heaters.

37) One or more electric receptacles and/or the boxes they are installed in are loose and/or not securely anchored. Wire conductors may be damaged due to repeated movement and/or tension on wires, or insulation may be damaged. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

38) The Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is in need of cleaning. Much debris and insects can accumulate in the unit, reducing flow though the unit's filter.
Recommend washing filters and vacuuming the inner accessible surfaces as well as cleaning the cubic exchange core.
The core can be pulled out horizontally and pressure washed using a garden hose.

39) Note: In order to prevent cold spots at exterior walls, be sure to keep items and furniture at least 3” away from exterior walls.
Placing such items too close to the wall will create conducive conditions for mold and moisture damage. The science behind this is that moisture seeks to condensate and will be attracted to cool spots in the home. This also explains why windows often steam-up during cool weather. And with a steady source of moisture on surfaces, this makes it attractive to mold and other fungal species. Pulling items away from these exterior walls with ensure that heat from the home keeps surfaces dry.

40) Some wall, floor and/or ceiling surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items. Some areas couldn't be evaluated.

Photo 1

This report is intended only as a general guide to help the CLIENT make his/her own evaluation of the overall condition of the home, and is not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase.

The report expresses the opinions of INSPEC Home Inspection Service, based upon visual impressions of the conditions that existed AT THE TIME of the inspection only.

The inspection and the report are not intended to be technically exhaustive, or to imply that every component was inspected, or that every possible defect was discovered.

No disassembly of equipment, opening of walls, moving of furniture, appliances or stored items, or excavation was performed.

All components and conditions, which by nature of their location are concealed, camouflaged or difficult to inspect, are excluded from the report.


* Please Read General Notes Below **

** EXTERIOR - FOUNDATION - BASEMENT **

Areas hidden from view by finished walls or stored items cannot be judged and are not part of this inspection. Minor cracks are typical in many foundations and most do not represent a structural problem. If major cracks are present along with bowing, we routinely recommend further evaluation by a qualified structural engineer. All exterior grades should allow for surface and roof water to flow away from the foundation. All concrete floor slabs experience some degree of cracking due to shrinkage in the drying process. In most case instances, floor coverings prevent recognition of cracks or settlement in all but the most severe cases. Where carpeting and other floor coverings are installed, the materials and condition of the flooring underneath cannot be determined.


**GRADING and DRAINAGE**

This is the most significant aspect of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that water and moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters, and for this reason we are particularly diligent when we evaluate site conditions. In fact, we compare all sites to an ideal site condition.
In short, the ideal property will have soils that slope downward away from the house, and the interior floor structure will be at least several inches higher than the exterior grade. Also, the residence will have gutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains or drain pipes with catch basins that carry water away to lower hard surfaces. If a property does not meet this ideal, or if any portion of the interior floor is below the exterior grade, the inspector will not endorse it, even though there may be no evidence of moisture intrusion, and recommend that you consult with a grading and drainage contractor. Moisture intrusion inside homes is best evaluated when it is raining and the lack of evidence during dry weather is not a guaranty that water is not intruding.


** ROOF SYSTEM **

The foregoing is an opinion of the general quality and condition of the roofing material. The Inspector cannot and does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or may be subject to leakage. This report is issued in consideration of the foregoing disclaimer. There are many different roof types, and every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance. However, regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing the roof material, and this is equally true of almost all roofs. Material on most pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof, only water-resistant.
There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable. They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty to twenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years, and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced with mastic, which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage.
However, among the pitched roofs, tar & gravel roofs are the least dependable, because the low pitch and the gravel prevent them from draining as readily as other roofs. For this reason, they must be conscientiously maintained. In this respect, the least dependable of all roofs are flat roofs, which are also called built-up roofs. Some flat roofs are adequately sloped toward drains but many are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation. However, the most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced or kept clean, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels. Determining the slope of a flat roof is beyond the scope of this inspection.
What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific
water tests, which are beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installer can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such guarantees. We will examine every roof, evaluate it, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not predict is remaining life expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.


** PLUMBING **

Water quality or hazardous materials (lead) testing is available from local Testing Labs. All underground piping related to water supply, waste, or sprinkler use are excluded from this inspection as these are not visible. Leakage, blockages or corrosion in underground piping cannot be detected by a visual inspection.
Wells are evaluated only visually and are determined to be operational or non-operational. Flow rates, quality, availability and quantity of water source cannot be determined by a visual inspection. Well specialists should be consulted at client’s desire.
Cast iron drain and waste pipes are evidently old and have not been installed in residential buildings since several decades. While many cast iron systems are in good serviceable condition, much of these pipes are known to accumulate an inner lining of debris, which cannot be seen. Draw rates can be slowed due to this. It is recommended that the client seek further evaluation by a qualified pipe inspector in order to determine the condition of such old drain systems.
When water supply is available, the inspector runs water from many source simultaneously so as to pressurize the drain line to observe draw.


** HEATING - AIR CONDITIONING **

Some furnaces are designed in such a way that inspection is almost impossible.
The Inspector will not light (ignite) any extinguished "pilot lights".
System safety devices are NOT tested by the Inspector as this is not within the scope of a visual inspection.
NOTE: Asbestos materials have been commonly used in heating systems. Determining the presence of asbestos can ONLY be preformed by laboratory testing, and is beyond the scope of this inspection. When material suspected to be asbestos is found, a sample is relinquished by the inspector and kept in storage for 12 months in the event the client wishes to have the material tested by a qualified laboratory. Your inspector can make all such arrangements.
Thermostats are not checked for calibration or timed functions. Adequacy, efficiency or even the distribution of air throughout a building cannot be addressed by a visual inspection. Electronic air cleaners, humidifiers and de-humidifiers are beyond the scope of this inspection. Have these systems evaluated by a qualified individual.
Air conditioning systems cannot be operated if outdoor temperature is below or near 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The Inspector does not perform pressure tests on coolant systems; therefore no representation is made regarding coolant charge or line integrity.


** ELECTRICAL SYSTEM **

Any electrical repairs attempted by anyone other than a licensed electrician should not be attempted. If a house has aluminum wiring, it should have periodic inspections and maintenance by a licensed electrician. Operation of time-clock motors is not verified. Inoperative light fixtures often lack bulbs or have dead bulbs installed. Light bulbs are not changed during the inspection, due to time constraints. Smoke alarms should be installed within 15 feet of all bedroom doors, and at every LEVEL in the home, and tested regularly.
Panel covers that are not easily and safely accessible without a ladder will not be removed. Panels where arcing noises are audible will not be opened.


** MOLD and SUSPICIOUS GROWTHS **

Your INSPEC inspector is fully certified for MOLD assessment. There are several aspects to initially assessing mold and air quality.
-The presence of the so-called “musty” odor in a home is often linked to mold growth somewhere in the dwelling.
-Visible mold is a clear sign that air quality may be compromised.

As much as the inspector may be able to validate the presence of mold, it is impossible for the inspector to determine its genus or specie. Only through laboratory testing can mold be speciated or identified.

This home inspection does not include any air quality or mold testing services. This is an ancillary service provided by the inspector. If the client wishes to have such testing performed, the inspector will quote this work separately.

Mold testing usually involves the use of specialized collection equipment for collecting air, tape, wall, swab samples for lab testing. This refers to initial testing (determining the quantity and types of mold on the day and hour of the inspection).

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