Website: http://www.helmhomeinspections.com
Email: helmhomeinspections@yahoo.com
Phone: (360) 739-5751
4186 Rural Ave 
Bellingham, Wa 98226
Inspector: David Helm
WSDA Structural Pest Inspector #69844

Summary Page

Home Inspection Report WSDA Inspection Control Number 7253BK005
Client(s):	Cindy Stentz, David Helm
Property address:	6901 Chair Peak Glacier, Washington 98244
Inspection date:	Friday, September 28, 2007

This summary page published on 5/5/2008 4:59:10 PM PDT

Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a risk of injury or death
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Repair/Maintain	Recommend repair and/or maintenance
	Minor Defect	Correction likely involves only a minor expense
	Maintain	Recommend ongoing maintenance
	Evaluate	Recommend evaluation by a specialist
	Comment	For your information

 

	WDO/WDI Infestation	Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.)
	WDO/WDI Damage	Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.)
	WDO/WDI Conducive conditions	Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

2) Exterior: - Flashing is missing from above all deck ledger boards. This can cause moisture to accumulate between the ledger board(s) and the structure. Rot may result in this area and cause the ledger board fasteners to fail. The deck may separate from the structure in this event and poses a significant safety hazard. A qualified contractor should install flashing above ledger board(s) where necessary. For more information on installing deck ledger boards visit: http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/decks/deck_4.htm

And for more information on building safe decks in general, visit: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/exteriors/article/0,16417,212625,00.html
3) Exterior: - All crawl space vent screens are blocked by removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed.
4) Exterior:   - Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
5) Exterior: - Caulk is missing in many areas such as around windows and at siding butt joints. This can allow water to penetrate the house structure and is a conducive condition for wood destroying organisms. Caulk must be applied where necessary. For more information on caulking, visit The Ins and Outs of Caulking.
7) Roof: - There is an active leak in the roof area over the hot tub. This is caused by: 1) a missing narrow section of metal panel 2) a missing ridge cap 3) missing screws in one roof panel. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and replace sections and/or make repairs as necessary.
8) Roof: - Debris such as leaves, needles, seeds, etc. have accumulated on the roof. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms since water may not flow easily off the roof, and may enter gaps in the roof surface. Leaks may occur as a result. Debris should be cleaned from the roof now and as necessary in the future.
10) Attic: - No exhaust fan ducts were found for this structure. If they terminate in the space between the ceiling and roof this is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in this area from the exhaust air. The builder should be queried regarding location of exhaust fan ducts and where they terminate. Exhaust air needs to be properly vented outside.
12) Water heater:   - The water heater does not have seismic straps or struts installed. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause leaks in the gas supply lines or damage wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should install seismic straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
14) Plumbing and laundry:   - The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022
15) Plumbing and laundry:   - The clothes dryer exhaust duct is kinked, crushed and/or damaged. Air flow is restricted as a result. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire. The exhaust duct should be replaced or repaired, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html or http://chimneykeepers.com/dryerclean.html
16) Plumbing and laundry: - The clothes dryer exhaust duct is broken or disconnected in one place. Clothes dryers produce large amounts of moisture which should not enter structure interiors. Damage to building components may result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make permanent repairs as necessary. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html
17) Plumbing and laundry:   - Recommend having the septic tank inspected. Recommend having the tank pumped if it was last pumped more than 3 years ago.
18) Plumbing and laundry: - The clothes dryer exhaust duct is routed so as to vent into the crawl space. This adds moisture to the air of the crawl space and is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. Recommend rerouting the duct so it vents outside per standard building practices. This should be done by a qualified person.
23) Crawl space:   - Some wiring is loose, unsupported, or inadequately supported. Standard building practices require non-metallic sheathed wiring to be trimmed to length, attached to runners or to solid backing with fasteners at intervals of 4-1/2 ft. or less. Fasteners should be installed within 12 inches of all enclosures. A qualified, licensed electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, trim wire to length and/or install staples as needed.
24) Crawl space: - Standing water was found in two sections of the crawl space. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. A qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:

Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains

Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, drains and/or sump pump(s) in the crawl space.

It may be that the source of this water is the hatch area to the crawl space. The hatch area is below the level of the surrounding ground, and no well is installed. The rock retaining wall is inadequate to keep water out. At the very least, I recommend installation of a proper crawl space entry well per standard building practices, by a qualified contractor.
25) Crawl space: - All crawl space vent screens are blocked by removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed.
28) Kitchen:   - The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/remodeling/article/0,1797,HGTV_3659_2017492,00.html
29) Kitchen: - There is no back splash installed at the kitchen counter in a wet area. An attempt was made to control water penetration into the wall with caulk. The gap is too wide for caulk to bridge (maximum caulkable gap is 1/8 inch). This is a conducive condition for wood destroying organisms. Recommend installation of a proper backsplash per standard building practices, by a qualified contractor.
30) Kitchen:   - The range hood fan vents into the kitchen rather than outdoors. Ventilation may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified contractor make modifications as necessary as per standard building practices so the range hood fan vents outdoors.
32) Bathrooms: - Caulk is missing along the base of the bathtub (downstairs bathroom), where flooring meets the tub. Grout was used to fill this space, and has cracked, allowing water to potentially enter the floor structure. The way to finish this is with matching color caulk (sanded) rather than grout. It should be applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to the floor structure.
33) Bathrooms: - The base of the bathtub spout (downstairs bathroom) is loose. Caulk does not hold the spout to the wall. The spout should be tightened and recaulked (by a qualified plumber) to prevent water intrusion and damage to wall structures.
34) Bathrooms: - Caulk is missing along the base of the shower (upstairs bathroom), where flooring meets the shower. This was done in the same way as the downstairs bathroom. Same recommendation.
35) Bathrooms:   - The paint job in the upstairs bathroom is sloppy and not finished per standard building practices, with color paint (from rollers touching the ceiling) slopped onto the ceiling. Recommend touch up and repainting of ceiling so colors do not slop onto each other.
37) Interior rooms:   - One electric baseboard heater is installed with an electric receptacle located above. Insulation on appliance cords in contact with the heater(s) may be damaged by the heat. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, converting receptacles to junction boxes, moving receptacles and/or moving baseboard heaters.
38) Interior rooms:   - The low wall in the loft above the stairs that acts as a safety railing is very loose. This is dangerous as someone leaning against it could fall down the stairs, possibly suffering serious injury. Recommend evaluation and repair, per standard construction practices, by a qualified contractor, so that the wall is rigidly installed to the floor and truly acts as a safety railing.
39) Interior rooms:   - All of the window wrap in this structure is unpainted MDF (medium density fiber board). The only coating on it is the factory primer. Several window sills (Upstairs bathroom, NW bedroom and kitchen) have water damage as a result. Recommend replacing kitchen sill, filling all nail holes, and painting all wrap with enamel, by a qualified painting contractor.
40) Interior rooms:   - There does not appear to be a key for the main entry deadbolt. Recommend acquiring a key for this deadbolt or having it rekeyed to match the latch key.
41) Interior rooms:   - Many of the windows (all upstairs and kitchen downstairs) have not had their installation completed. They are equipped with a capillary seal that has to be completed at installation. The instructions for this process were found in one window. Recommend completion of this process, per the instructions, by a qualified contractor.