
Website: http://www.helmhomeinspections.com
Email: helmhomeinspections@yahoo.com
Phone: (360) 739-5751
4186 Rural Ave
Bellingham, Wa 98226
Inspector: David Helm
WSDA Structural Pest Inspector #69844
Home Inspection Report WSDA Inspection Control Number 7253BK005 |
| Client(s): |
Cindy Stentz, David Helm |
| Property address: |
6901 Chair Peak Glacier, Washington 98244 |
| Inspection date: |
Friday, September 28, 2007 |
This report published on 5/5/2008 4:59:10 PM PDT
View summary page
Thank you for choosing Helm Home Inspections. It is my pleasure to provide you with this service. This inspection was performed under the Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors
http://www.nachi.org
This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
Home inspection reports by nature focus on defects and may seem negative in tone. Many features of this property may be in excellent condition and of high quality but are not mentioned in this report. This is not meant to downplay the property's assets, but to focus on alerting you to potentially expensive problems. Note that many problems may be alleviated inexpensively if done immediately, but could be very expensive if allowed to progress. It is also necessary to note that all homes, regardless of age, have some defects.
Your home inspection report represents my good-faith opinions on the subjects listed within at the time of the inspection, but it is not a guarantee or warranty. Please read the report thoroughly and call promptly with any questions or concerns.
Frequently clients ask if repairs should be made prior to, or after, closing. That decision is left to the client. However it is recommended that prior to closing client have in hand - at a minimum - estimates for repairs/upgrades/evaluations of any components or systems that may be complex or costly to fix (typically, but not limited to, structural/foundation, roof, chimney, fireplace, electrical, plumbing and heating concerns). If repairs are completed prior to closing, the client minimizes the chances of unexpected surprises after taking ownership.
Please be aware that the state of Washington
requires a WDO (wood destroying organisms [including rot and conditions conducive to WDO]) Inspection Control Number and a sketch showing the locations. This sketch will be on file in my office and may be obtained by calling me.
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types: | Safety | Poses a risk of injury or death |
 | Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing |
 | Repair/Maintain | Recommend repair and/or maintenance |
 | Minor Defect | Correction likely involves only a minor expense |
 | Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance |
 | Evaluate | Recommend evaluation by a specialist |
 | Comment | For your information |
Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Items of concern relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:
 | WDO/WDI Infestation | Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) |
 | WDO/WDI Damage | Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) |
 | WDO/WDI Conducive conditions | Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Table of Contents
General information
Exterior
Roof
Attic
Electric service
Water heater
Heating and cooling
Plumbing and laundry
Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys
Crawl space
Kitchen
Bathrooms
Interior rooms
Report number: 92807.1
Type of building: Single family
Age of building: 2+ years
Property owner's name: Porter
Time started: 11:00 AM
Time finished: 2:30 PM
Occupied: Yes
Weather conditions: Rain
Temperature: Cool
Ground condition: Wet
Front of structure faces: North
Main entrance faces: North
Foundation type: Crawlspace
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Private sewage disposal system, Hot tub
1)
Some wall, floor and/or ceiling surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items. Some areas couldn't be evaluated.
Footing material: Poured in place concrete
Foundation material: Poured in place concrete
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Wall covering: Wood clapboard, Wood shingles
Driveway material: Gravel
Sidewalk material: Gravel
Exterior door material: Solid core steel, Sliding glass
2)

Flashing is missing from above all deck ledger boards. This can cause moisture to accumulate between the ledger board(s) and the structure. Rot may result in this area and cause the ledger board fasteners to fail. The deck may separate from the structure in this event and poses a significant safety hazard. A qualified contractor should install flashing above ledger board(s) where necessary. For more information on installing deck ledger boards visit: http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/decks/deck_4.htm
And for more information on building safe decks in general, visit: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/exteriors/article/0,16417,212625,00.html

Photo 8
Missing ledger board to house wall flashing
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3)
All crawl space vent screens are blocked by removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed.

Photo 7
Blocked foundation vents
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4)
Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.

Photo 2
Siding penetration, poor caulk, cables cut off
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5)
Caulk is missing in many areas such as around windows and at siding butt joints. This can allow water to penetrate the house structure and is a conducive condition for wood destroying organisms. Caulk must be applied where necessary. For more information on caulking, visit The Ins and Outs of Caulking.

Photo 3
'wide gap, no caulk
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Photo 4
Wide gap between window trim and siding, no caulk
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Photo 5
Wide gap at siding butt joint, no caulk
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6)
Porch ceiling paneling is incomplete. It does not cover the area of the hot tub. Recommend completion of ceiling paneling to match the rest of the porch ceiling by a qualified carpenter.

Photo 14
Missing pine ceiling paneling
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Roof inspection method: Viewed from eaves on ladder
Roof type: Gable
Roof covering: Metal
Estimated age of roof: 3 years
Gutter & downspout material: None
Roof ventilation: Unable to determine (no access to attic spaces)
7)

There is an active leak in the roof area over the hot tub. This is caused by: 1) a missing narrow section of metal panel 2) a missing ridge cap 3) missing screws in one roof panel. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and replace sections and/or make repairs as necessary.

Photo 9
Missing roof ridge cap
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Photo 10
Missing screws
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Photo 11
Missing roof section, debris on roof
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Photo 12
Active roof leak
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Photo 13
Active roof leak
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8)
Debris such as leaves, needles, seeds, etc. have accumulated on the roof. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms since water may not flow easily off the roof, and may enter gaps in the roof surface. Leaks may occur as a result. Debris should be cleaned from the roof now and as necessary in the future.
9)
The roof was partially obscured by accumulated debris and couldn't be fully evaluated.
Inspection method: Not inspected
Roof structure type: Not visible
Ceiling structure: Not visible
10)

No exhaust fan ducts were found for this structure. If they terminate in the space between the ceiling and roof this is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in this area from the exhaust air. The builder should be queried regarding location of exhaust fan ducts and where they terminate. Exhaust air needs to be properly vented outside.
11)
No accessible attic spaces were found or inspected at this property.
Primary service type: Underground
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 200
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main service switch: NW corner of North bedroom
Location of sub panels: Exterior, near hot tub
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at bottom of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
System ground: Ground rod(s) in soil
Main disconnect rating (amps): 200
Branch circuit wiring type: Non-metallic sheathed
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
Smoke detectors present: Yes
Estimated age: 2 1/2 years, Mfg. March, 2005
Type: Tank
Energy source: Electricity
Capacity (in gallons): 50
Manufacturer: Hotpoint Serial # HP0305R16330
Model: HE50MO18AG
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 115 degrees
12)

The water heater does not have seismic straps or struts installed. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause leaks in the gas supply lines or damage wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should install seismic straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.

Photo 15
Missing earthquake straps
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Primary heating system energy source: Electric, Propane gas
Primary heat system type: Baseboard, Fan assisted, in-wall units, Gas fireplace or stove
Distribution system: N/A
13)
A function test found all heaters to be operable at the time of the inspection.
Water pressure (psi): 80 psi
Location of main water shut-off valve: Laundry room behind water heater
Location of main water meter: unknown
Location of main fuel shut-off: Valve on top of propane tank
Visible fuel storage systems: Propane tank
Water service: Public
Service pipe material: Not visible
Supply pipe material: Polyethelene
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Drain pipe material: Plastic
Waste pipe material: Plastic
14)

The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022
15)

The clothes dryer exhaust duct is kinked, crushed and/or damaged. Air flow is restricted as a result. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire. The exhaust duct should be replaced or repaired, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html or http://chimneykeepers.com/dryerclean.html

Photo 34
Crimped dryer vent
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16)

The clothes dryer exhaust duct is broken or disconnected in one place. Clothes dryers produce large amounts of moisture which should not enter structure interiors. Damage to building components may result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make permanent repairs as necessary. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

Photo 33
Torn, unconnected dryer vent
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17)

Recommend having the septic tank inspected. Recommend having the tank pumped if it was last pumped more than 3 years ago.
18)
The clothes dryer exhaust duct is routed so as to vent into the crawl space. This adds moisture to the air of the crawl space and is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. Recommend rerouting the duct so it vents outside per standard building practices. This should be done by a qualified person.

Photo 39
Dryer vent terminating in crawl space
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19)
Washer: Danby, model# DWM5500W-1, serial# 44330049
Dryer: Danby, model# DCD5505W-1, serial# 43630313

Photo 17
Washer, Dryer
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20)
Location of main water shut off

Photo 16
Main water shutoff
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21)
Location of fuel shutoff

Photo 6
Propane shut off valve
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Fireplace type: Metal prefabricatedPropane fired with fan
Chimney type: Metal
22)
The glass on the gas fireplace may develop a hazy film over time. This is typically a mineral residue left from water vapor as the gas burns. It may be possible to clean this fogging by removing the glass from the fireplace and using a gas appliance ceramic glass cleaner, available through gas fireplace and stove distributors and installers. Ammonia-based products, such as common glass cleaners should not be used since they may cause damage or etching to the glass, or make the haze permanent.
It may be possible for a homeowner to remove the glass for cleaning, depending on if the instructions or manual for the fireplace are available, and if the homeowner is experienced in such repairs. Recommend consulting with a gas fireplace installation contractor for more information, or to have them do the cleaning.
Inspection method: Traversed
Insulation material underneath floor above: Fiberglass roll or batt
Pier or support post material: Bearing wall
Floor structure above: Solid wood joists
Vapor barrier present: Yes Vapor barrier is a concrete slab
23)


Some wiring is loose, unsupported, or inadequately supported. Standard building practices require non-metallic sheathed wiring to be trimmed to length, attached to runners or to solid backing with fasteners at intervals of 4-1/2 ft. or less. Fasteners should be installed within 12 inches of all enclosures. A qualified, licensed electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, trim wire to length and/or install staples as needed.

Photo 40
Loose, unsupported wiring
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Photo 41
Loose, unsupported wiring
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24)

Standing water was found in two sections of the crawl space. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. A qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:
Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
Improving perimeter grading
Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, drains and/or sump pump(s) in the crawl space.
It may be that the source of this water is the hatch area to the crawl space. The hatch area is below the level of the surrounding ground, and no well is installed. The rock retaining wall is inadequate to keep water out. At the very least, I recommend installation of a proper crawl space entry well per standard building practices, by a qualified contractor.

Photo 36
Water damage to bearing wall sheathing in crawl space
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Photo 37
Standing water in crawl space
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Photo 38
One inch deep standing water in crawl space
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Photo 42
Inadequate crawl space entry well
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25)
All crawl space vent screens are blocked by removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed.
26)
Cellulose-based debris such as wood scraps, form wood, cardboard and/or paper were found in crawl space. All cellulose-based debris should be removed to avoid attracting wood destroying insects.

Photo 35
Wood storage in crawl spacee
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27)
The crawl space is being used as a storage area. All stored items, especially cellulose-based items such as wood, cardboard or paper, should be removed to allow maximum ventilation and to avoid attracting wood destroying insects.
28)

The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/remodeling/article/0,1797,HGTV_3659_2017492,00.html
29)
There is no back splash installed at the kitchen counter in a wet area. An attempt was made to control water penetration into the wall with caulk. The gap is too wide for caulk to bridge (maximum caulkable gap is 1/8 inch). This is a conducive condition for wood destroying organisms. Recommend installation of a proper backsplash per standard building practices, by a qualified contractor.

Photo 20
Missing backsplash
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30)
The range hood fan vents into the kitchen rather than outdoors. Ventilation may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified contractor make modifications as necessary as per standard building practices so the range hood fan vents outdoors.
31)
Refridgerator: GE, model# GTS18FBRERWW, serial# AH825854
Microwave: Magic Chef, model# MCO153UW, serial# 50604959
Range: GE, model# RB757WH1WW, serial# FH242001R

Photo 18
Refridgerator
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Photo 19
Stove and microwave
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32)
Caulk is missing along the base of the bathtub (downstairs bathroom), where flooring meets the tub. Grout was used to fill this space, and has cracked, allowing water to potentially enter the floor structure. The way to finish this is with matching color caulk (sanded) rather than grout. It should be applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to the floor structure.

Photo 22
Missing caulk at tub base
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33)
The base of the bathtub spout (downstairs bathroom) is loose. Caulk does not hold the spout to the wall. The spout should be tightened and recaulked (by a qualified plumber) to prevent water intrusion and damage to wall structures.

Photo 21
Loose bathtub faucet spout
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34)
Caulk is missing along the base of the shower (upstairs bathroom), where flooring meets the shower. This was done in the same way as the downstairs bathroom. Same recommendation.

Photo 24
Missing caulk at shower base
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35)
The paint job in the upstairs bathroom is sloppy and not finished per standard building practices, with color paint (from rollers touching the ceiling) slopped onto the ceiling. Recommend touch up and repainting of ceiling so colors do not slop onto each other.

Photo 25
Messy, unprofessional paint job
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Photo 26
Messy, unprofessional paint job
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36)
There is no transition strip between the wood floor of the bedroom and the tile floor of the bathroom (upstairs bathroom) and the grout is uneven and poorly done. It should be noted that the tile floors appear to have not been professionally done. There is dried grout on the tile surfaces and on the shower stall at the bottom. Recommend installation of a transition strip, to finish the floor, by a qualified flooring contractor.

Photo 27
No transition strip, poor grout job
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37)


One electric baseboard heater is installed with an electric receptacle located above. Insulation on appliance cords in contact with the heater(s) may be damaged by the heat. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, converting receptacles to junction boxes, moving receptacles and/or moving baseboard heaters.

Photo 31
Electric outlet above baseboard heater
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38)


The low wall in the loft above the stairs that acts as a safety railing is very loose. This is dangerous as someone leaning against it could fall down the stairs, possibly suffering serious injury. Recommend evaluation and repair, per standard construction practices, by a qualified contractor, so that the wall is rigidly installed to the floor and truly acts as a safety railing.
39)

All of the window wrap in this structure is unpainted MDF (medium density fiber board). The only coating on it is the factory primer. Several window sills (Upstairs bathroom, NW bedroom and kitchen) have water damage as a result. Recommend replacing kitchen sill, filling all nail holes, and painting all wrap with enamel, by a qualified painting contractor.

Photo 23
Water damage to unpainted MDF window wrap
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Photo 30
Water damage to unpainted MDF window wrap
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Photo 32
Water damage to unpainted MDF window wrap
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40)


There does not appear to be a key for the main entry deadbolt. Recommend acquiring a key for this deadbolt or having it rekeyed to match the latch key.
41)
Many of the windows (all upstairs and kitchen downstairs) have not had their installation completed. They are equipped with a capillary seal that has to be completed at installation. The instructions for this process were found in one window. Recommend completion of this process, per the instructions, by a qualified contractor.

Photo 28
Instructions for capillary seal of windows
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Photo 29
Incomplete sealing of windows
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Thank you very much for your business and the opportunity to provide this service. I value your business and I hope I have exceeded your expectations. I appreciate any comments you may have regarding the inspection techniques or the report format. If you are pleased with this inspection, I would appreciate it if you would tell your realtor.
Please don't hesitate to call day or night if you have any questions concerning the inspection.