 | Website: http://www.houseabouthomeinspections.com Email: david@houseabouthomeinspections.com Phone: (518) 505-8305 Delmar NY, 12054 Inspector: David O'Keefe NYS lic.# 16000038229 INACHI # 08051301 DEC Termite # T4865884 |
Residential Inspection Report | |
| Client(s): | Two Family Sample |
| Property address: | Your Street Hometown, NY |
| Inspection date: | 6/5/2010 |
Thank you for choosing HouseAbout Home Inspections. I am confident you will be satisfied with the services I provided. This report outlines the inspection observations, concerns, problems, and any recommendations.
Included in this report is a summary page for your convenience, this is just an overview of major items and/or significant safety related issues that were observed at the time of the inspection. This is not a complete listing of problems, further evaluations needed, or recommendations. In addition, pictures are included to help you understand and see what I saw at the time of the inspection. They are intended to show an example or illustration of an area of concern but may not show every occurrence and may not accurately depict its severity. Also note that not all areas of concern will be pictured. Do not rely on pictures alone. Please read the complete inspection report before your inspection contingency period expires.
If, after reading the report you have any questions about the report, or conditions of the house, please feel free to contact me. I would be happy to clarify anything that is unclear.
This report is confidential and the exclusive property of HouseAbout Home Inspections and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use or duplication of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited. Inspector assumes no liability for any third party misuse or reliance.
 | Safety | Poses a risk of injury or death |
 | Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing |
 | Improve/Upgrade | Recommend improving/upgrading |
 | Minor Defect | minor expense/or defect |
 | Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance |
 | Evaluate | Recommend further evaluation by a specialist |
 | Not Inspected | Item or component was not inspected/tested or limited inspection done |
 | Informational Comment | For your information |
Wood Destroying Organism Concerns
Concerns relating to wood destroying organisms are shown as follows:
 | Infestation | Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) |
 | Damage | Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) |
 | Conducive conditions | Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp| General Information | Return to table of contents |
Structures built prior to 1980 may contain potentially hazardous substances such as lead, asbestos, Urea- formaldehyde foam and other potentially hazardous substances in various building materials such as paint, insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Evaluating for the presence of these hazards is not included in my standard home inspection. I will point out visible substances that may be considered hazardous to your health, but unless otherwise stated in your report, the existence of hazardous materials, which may or may not be present on the property, was not observed by HouseAbout Home Inspections. The client should consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement contractors for this type of evaluation. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5054.html, http://www.epa.gov/asbestos
The residence is furnished, and in accordance with industry standards we only inspect those surfaces that are exposed and readily accessible. We do not move furniture, lift carpets or rugs, nor do we remove or rearrange items within closets or cabinets. On your final walk through, or at some point after furniture and personal belongings have been removed, it is important that you inspect the interior portions of the residence that were concealed or otherwise inaccessible and contact us immediately if any adverse conditions are observed that were not reported on in your inspection report.
The client is advised to seek at least two professional opinions and acquire estimates of repairs as to any defects, comments, mentions, and recommendations in report. Recommend professionals making any repairs inspect the property further in order to discover and repair related problems that were not identified in the report. Recommend that all repairs concerns and cost estimates be completed and documented prior to closing or purchasing property.
We expect homes to be built according to the standard practices and building codes, if any, that were in use at the date of construction. Older homes often have areas or systems that do not comply with current building codes. While this inspection makes every effort to point out safety concerns, it does not inspect for building code compliance. It is common for homes of any age to have had repairs done, and some repairs may appear less than standard. This inspection looks for items that are not functioning as intended. It does not grade the quality of the repairs. In older homes, the inspector reviewed the structure from the standpoint of how it has fared through the years with the materials that were used. You can expect problems to become apparent as time passes. The inspector will not be able to find all deficiencies in and around a property, especially concerning construction techniques of the past.
In accordance with my standards of practice, I identify foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces in foundations are quite common. In fact, it would be rare to find a raised foundation wall that was not cracked or deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation that did not include some cracks concealed beneath the carpeting and padding. Fortunately, most of these cracks are related to the curing process or to common settling, including some wide ones called cold-joint separations that typically contour the footings, but others can be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils that can predicate more or less continual movement. We will certainly alert you to any suspicious cracks if they are clearly visible. However, I am not a specialists, and in the absence of any major defects I may not recommend that you consult with a foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert.
1) Today's inspection is being done using the Standards of Practice of New York State as a Guideline. The inspection contracts and the limitations and standards specified therein are an integral part of this report.| Exterior: Foundation and Landscaping | Return to table of contents |
Stairs were unsafe due to the following non standard configuration: riser heights vary, risers too high. Standard building practices require that:
 Photo 35 Trip hazard on front steps
|
There are minor cracks in driveway. Recommend patching asphalt driveway where necessary and resealing to prevent further cracking.
 Photo 17 Driveway
|
Perimeter pavement slopes towards building on the right side. This will allow rainwater to accumulate around the foundation and is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Recommend replacing so it slopes down and away from the structure to direct rainwater away.
 Photo 86 Sidewalk slope toward foundation, pooling area
|
The walls around the basement entrance were damaged, deteriorated. Recommend repairing walls by a qualified mason.
 Photo 74 Deterioration on basement wall
|
Window well weather shield not present on one or more windows below grade. Water may enter basement as a result. Recommend installing a weather shield on all basement window wells.
 Photo 8 No window well cover
|
One or more outside faucets appeared to be inoperable. No water came out of the faucet(s) when turned on. This may be due to a (winterizing) shut-off valve being turned off. As per the NACHI Standards of Practice, the inspector did not attempt to turn on or off any water supply shut-off valves. Recommend that the client(s) ask the seller about outside faucets with no water, and/or have a qualified plumber evaluate and repair faucet(s) as necessary.
One or more sections of foundation and/or exterior walls are excluded from this inspection due to lack of access from vegetation, debris, fencing and/or stored items. I was unable to view it in its entirety. I have moved the ground cover to the best of my ability without damaging it.
There are minor cracks in sidewalk. These are only a cosmetic concern. No action is recommended.
| Exterior: Walls, Windows and Doors | Return to table of contents |
The service entrance wires had one or more loose points of attachment. For example, brackets and/or fasteners were loose. This is a potential safety hazard. A qualified contractor or electrician make repairs as necessary.
 Photo 10 Loose SEC wires
|
One or more guardrails were missing from the front porch. The doors to the basement are right in front and below the porch. If the doors are open someone may fall into the stairway.This is a safety hazard. Standard building practices require that they:
 Photo 15 Front porch, needs railing
|
 Photo 73 Basement entrance
|
Shrubs are in contact with siding. Damage to exterior finish surfaces may result.This is also a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms to enter the home. Recommend pruning or moving shrubs so there's at least a one foot gap between shrubs and siding.
 Photo 2 Shrubs against exterior wall. Inspection restriction
|
Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
 Photo 16 Caulking needed
|
All areas of the front porch substructure were inaccessible due to lack of access from permanently installed skirting. These areas couldn't be evaluated and are excluded from the inspection.
| Exterior: Roof and Ventilation System | Return to table of contents |
One or more downspouts are loose or detached. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possible fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary.
 Photo 14 Detached downspout
|
One or more downspouts have no extensions, or have extensions that are ineffective. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possible fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.
 Photo 3 Short extension
|
 Photo 11 Extension needed
|
 Photo 89 |
| General Exterior Pictures | Return to table of contents |
 Photo 5 Rear entrance
|
 Photo 7 Stairway to 2nd floor apartment
|
 Photo 9 Main gas shut off
|
 Photo 13 Front entrance
|
 Photo 87 Roof
|
 Photo 72 |
| 1st Floor Apt. General Interior | Return to table of contents |
One or more light fixtures are loose or installed in a substandard way. A qualified contractor or electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so light fixtures are securely mounted and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.
 Photo 27 Loose closet light, safety hazard
|
Stains were found in one or more ceiling areas. The stain(s) appear to be due to leaks in the 2nd floor laundry area.. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 18 Moisture stain from 2nd floor laundry area
|
Sloping floor and/or bulges/dips in floor. Determining the exact cause of any sloping/bulges/dips would require removal of the floor covering or other destructive testing, which is not within the scope of the home inspection. Recommend further evaluation by licensed flooring professional and/or licensed foundation professional.
Interior photos
 Photo 19 |
 Photo 21 |
 Photo 22 |
 Photo 23 |
 Photo 32 |
 Photo 33 |
| 1st Floor Apt. Kitchen | Return to table of contents |
Kitchen stove does not appear to have an anti-tipping bracket installed. This could prove hazardous for children. I recommend an authorized stove repair company install this safety device.For more information visit: Anti-Tip
 Photo 20 |
| 1st Floor Apt. Bathroom | Return to table of contents |
Bathroom exhaust fan is inoperable. Moisture may accumulate as a result. A qualified contractor should replace the fan or make repairs as necessary.
 Photo 29 Main bath
|
 Photo 30 Main bath
|
 Photo 31 Main bath
|
| 1st Floor Apt. 1/2 Bath | Return to table of contents |
Several "S" trap drain configurations were observed during the course of inspection. In many locations, "S" traps are no longer accepted by the plumbing codes as these traps tend to easily siphon dry even when well-vented. It is recommended that further evaluation be obtained from a qualified plumbing contractor familiar with the local building codes. Repair or replacement should be conducted by a qualified plumbing contractor. The following link provides detailed information about proper drain configurations.
 Photo 28 S-trap, can sphyen water from trap allowing sewer gases to enter
|
| 1st Floor Apt. Laundry | Return to table of contents |
A three prong receptacle for a clothes dryer was installed. Most modern clothes dryers use both 120 and 240 volts (120 for timers and motors, and 240 for heating elements) and either require, or are more safely installed with, a four wire receptacle. With three conductor wiring, the ground wire rather than a neutral wire is used to carry the return current back for the 120 volt leg. The clothes dryer's metal frame may become energized if the neutral wire becomes loose at the receptacle or panel. While three wire clothes dryer circuits were allowed prior to 1996 and are commonly found, they are considered unsafe due the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician convert this to a four wire circuit. Note that this may require installing a new circuit wire from the panel to the clothes dryer location.
 Photo 26 3 prong dryer plug
|
The washing machine is installed over a finished living space and has no catch pan or drain installed. These are not commonly installed, but they are recommended to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if or when the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained. Recommend having a qualified contractor install both a catch pan and drain.
 Photo 24 1st floor laundry area
|
The washing machine is connected to bare rubber hoses, Under constant water pressure, these hoses are prone to leaks or even bursting. Recommend replacing hoses with no-burst hoses. No-burst hoses are encased in a woven metal sleeve that prevents weak spots in the rubber from developing into leaks. The hoses cost about $10 each at home centers, and installing them is as easy as connecting a garden hose.
 Photo 25 Rubber hoses for washing machine
|
| 1st Floor Apt. Electric Service | Return to table of contents |
Legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate.
 Photo 71 |
The main service panel cover couldn't be removed due to accumulation of paint and/or wall finishing materials. This panel wasn't fully evaluated. Repairs should be made so the cover can come off easily.
 Photo 69 Painted over panel screws, drywall
|
 Photo 70 |
| 2nd Floor Apt. General Interior | Return to table of contents |
One or more ceiling fans wobbles excessively during operation. This is a potential safety hazard and may be caused by one or more of the following:
 Photo 94 Loose ceiling fan, wobbles
|
Handrail is not continuous for the entire length of the flight of stairs to the 2nd floor apartment. This is a safety hazard. Handrails should be continuous, and extend the full length of flights of stairs. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 37 |
One or more electric receptacles have reverse-polarity wiring, where the hot and neutral wires are reversed. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.
 Photo 92 Mis-wired outlet
|
Moisture stains were found in one or more ceiling areas. The stain(s) appear to be due to past roof leaks. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 54 Moisture stain in ceiling tile
|
 Photo 55 |
One or more doors bind in their jamb and cannot be closed and latched, or are difficult to open and close. A qualified contractor repair as necessary. For example, adjusting jambs or trimming doors.
Some of the suspended ceiling tiles were damaged. Recommend replacing tiles.
 Photo 48 broken tile
|
Sloping floor and/or bulges/dips in floor. Determining the exact cause of any sloping/bulges/dips would require removal of the floor covering or other destructive testing, which is not within the scope of the home inspection. Recommend further evaluation by licensed flooring professional and/or licensed foundation professional.
Interior photos
 Photo 36 Stairway to 2nd floor apt.
|
 Photo 38 |
 Photo 45 |
 Photo 46 |
| 2nd Floor Apt. Kitchen | Return to table of contents |
Kitchen stove does not appear to have an anti-tipping bracket installed. This could prove hazardous for children. I recommend an authorized stove repair company install this safety device.For more information visit: Anti-Tip
 Photo 88 |
Laminate countertop is loose in one or more areas. A qualified contractor should repair/replace as necessary.
The stove is missing some handles. Recommend replacing .
 Photo 39 |
| 2nd Floor Apt. Bathroom | Return to table of contents |
 Photo 40 2nd floor apt. bathroom
|
 Photo 41 |
| 2nd Floor Apt. Laundry | Return to table of contents |
The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html
 Photo 44 Vinyl dryer exhaust hose
|
A three prong receptacle for a clothes dryer was installed. Most modern clothes dryers use both 120 and 240 volts (120 for timers and motors, and 240 for heating elements) and either require, or are more safely installed with, a four wire receptacle. With three conductor wiring, the ground wire rather than a neutral wire is used to carry the return current back for the 120 volt leg. The clothes dryer's metal frame may become energized if the neutral wire becomes loose at the receptacle or panel. While three wire clothes dryer circuits were allowed prior to 1996 and are commonly found, they are considered unsafe due the risk of shock. Recommend having a qualified electrician convert this to a four wire circuit. Note that this may require installing a new circuit wire from the panel to the clothes dryer location.
 Photo 43 3 prong dryer plug
|
No catch pan or drain is installed on the floor underneath where the washing machine will be placed. These are not commonly installed, but they are recommended to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if or when the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained. Evidence of a past leak was found on the floor and in the ceiling of the 1st floor apartment. Recommend having a qualified contractor install both a catch pan and drain.
 Photo 42 Moisture stains in laundry area
|
 Photo 95 Laundry area, 2nd floor
|
The clothes dryer exhaust duct terminated in the attic. Clothes dryers produce large amounts of moisture which should not enter structure interiors. Damage to building components may result. A qualified person should install, repair or replace as necessary so the duct terminates outdoors, as per standard building practices. For more information, visit:| 2nd Floor Apt. Electric Service | Return to table of contents |
Multiple grounded (neutral) wires are incorrectly connected under a single screw on the grounding or neutral bus bar at the main panel, and should be serviced. Current standards require each “grounded conductor”(neutral/white) wire to have it’s very own screw on the bus bar, no other “grounded conductor” or grounding conductor” (bare copper wire) should be under the screw with the “grounded conductor”. (Unless the manufacturer states otherwise, bus bars are only designed for one current carrying conductor per terminating screw.)" Therefore, I recommend that an electrical contractor be contracted to separate the neutrals, and if need be, add additional terminal bars to accommodate the number of conductors.
 Photo 51 doubled neutrals
|
The legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate. Evaluation by a qualified electrician may be necessary.
 Photo 53 |
White conductors are only allowed to be used for grounded conductors (not 'hot' conductors), and, when use for other than grounded conductors (i.e., when used as 'hot' conductors) the white conductors are required to be re-identified by painting, taping or other approved means , and must be permanently re-identified with a color suitable for that use, i.e, "black" or "red" in most cases. This permanent re-identification is to be done at all terminations and at all areas visible and accessible, i.e., if you can see the white wire used as a 'hot' wire and you can access it, then that portion must be permanently re-identified to the appropriate color. Recommend an electrical contractor properly re-identify the white conductors in question. This is a safety concern.
 Photo 50 White wire not re-identified as hot.
|
 Photo 49 2nd floor apt. electrical panel
|
 Photo 52 Main panel
|
| Heating and Cooling Systems | Return to table of contents |
Secondary drain not present or not visible. An independent secondary drain line is desirable to help prevent water damage in case the main drain line becomes clogged. Clogged drains for the evaporator coil units could cause water damage in attics and interior locations. Recommend having a secondary drain line and a drain pan with float switch installed (a float switch will shut down the furnace should the drain pan become full to help prevent water damage). Recommend further evaluation by a licensed heating and cooling professional for options.
 Photo 63 Condensation drain for AC unit in attic
|
 Photo 66 |
Recommend that these systems be serviced every two years in the future by a qualified heating and cooling technician.
Air handler filter(s) should be checked monthly in the future and replaced or washed as necessary.
 Photo 60 Dirty filter
|
Mechanical equipment tested for functional operation at the time of inspection only. No life expectancy is expressed or implied. Inspection does not determine balancing or sizing of the system. The inspection covers only the visible components of the air conditioning system. Hidden problems may exist that are not documented in this report. Annual cleaning and servicing recommended for best performance and life expectancy.
| Domestic Water Heater | Return to table of contents |
The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
 Photo 93 Water temp, 142.2 F, safety hazard from scalding
|
The hot water system in this house is an indirect system.Water enters the boiler where it is heated and then is stored in a tank, then distributed to the hot water fixtures as needed.
 Photo 77 Hot water holding tank
|
 Photo 79 Label for water tank
|
 Photo 90 Main water shut offs for house.
|
| Basement | Return to table of contents |
Some areas of the brick foundation are deteriorated from water intrusion. Deterioration will continue if not corrected. Recommend repairs/replacement of damaged bricks by a qualified mason/foundation contractor and improvements to the exterior moisture control systems.
 Photo 84 Deteriorated, damaged bricks
|
 Photo 85 Deteriorated brick foundation
|
Evidence of a past fire was found in the basement in the form of charred subflooring. The damage does not appear to be significant but the exact extent of damage and deterioration to flooring could not be determined. The clients may wish to have the damaged wood further evaluated.
 Photo 81 Evidence of past fire in basement
|
 Photo 82 Evidence of past fire in basement
|
Some areas of the basement were not inspected because of low height, debris and/or stored items. These areas were unsafe to enter.
 Photo 75 |
 Photo 76 |
| Attic | Return to table of contents |
Ventilation can be improved in the attic. Inadequate attic ventilation may result in high attic and roof surface temperatures, reduce the life of the roof covering materials and increase cooling costs. High levels of moisture are also likely, and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of attic space. Vents should be evenly distributed between soffits, ridges and at corners to promote air circulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.
 Photo 57 Ridge vent
|
 Photo 62 Attic photo
|
 Photo 65 Blocked soffets
|
Pull-down stairs are installed for the attic access. No insulation is installed above the stairs and no weatherstripping is installed around the hatch perimeter. To reduce air leakage, recommend installing weatherstripping and an insulated hatch cover. An example of one can be seen at http://www.batticdoor.com/
 Photo 47 Attic access
|
 Photo 56 No insulation in attic stairs
|
 Photo 58 |
 Photo 61 Chimney through roof
|
 Photo 64 attic photos
|
 Photo 67 attic photos
|
| Safety Concerns and Recommendations | Return to table of contents |
Natural gas service is present at the house and no CO detectors were found. Before spending the first night, ensure that proper carbon monoxide detectors are present. The detector should be mounted low toward the floor as carbon monoxide is heavier than air. Several C/O detectors are best. One near the heating system and hot water supply and one on each floor of the home. Again, mount C/O detectors low toward the floor. For more information visit: "Protect Your Family and Yourself from Carbon Monoxide Poisoning" , Home Safety Council ,Carbon Monoxide Poisoning.
An insufficient number of smoke alarms are installed. Smoke Detectors are noted when present but are NOT tested or inspected. Pushing the built-in test button does not ensure that the smoke sensor is functional. It only establishes that the electrical circuit and audible alarm are functional. It is recommended that all smoke detectors be replaced when new owners move in. Ionization technology responds first to fast, flaming fires while photoelectric technology responds faster to slow smoldering fires. Having both types would be ideal. When installing detectors it is recommended that they be placed at each level including the basement and in each bedroom and laundry room of the house. Placement should be in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Smoke detectors should be replaced at 10 year intervals or per manufacturer's suggestion. Batteries should be changed twice a year.
 Photo 34 No batteries in smoke detector
|
 Photo 68 Smoke detector, 2nd floor
|
| Wood Destroying Insect and Rot | Return to table of contents |
1. Cracks in concrete foundations and open voids in concrete foundations.
Due to the cryptic nature of termites it may not be possible to determine conclusively whether or not termites are present simply based on visible evidence of termite infestation. Destructive testing or damage to the premises may be necessary to detect infestations.
| Radon Test | Return to table of contents |
The property was tested using short term protocols for the presence of radon using the above listed device. The test and analysis have been performed to comply with EPA radon test protocols. The average radon concentration at the time the sampling was conducted and the specific location within the building is listed above. Be aware that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. No tampering was observed during the radon test.
 Photo 91 Radon gas test canisters
|
The average level of the two canisters is 2.9 pCi/l. This is below the required action level set by the EPA, so no action is required at this time. However, it must be noted that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. The EPA suggests getting a property tested for radon every two years, or if any major changes above/or additions have been done to the property. Radon levels less than 4.0 pCi/L still pose some risk and in many cases may be reduced. If the radon level in your home is between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L, EPA recommends that you consider fixing your home.
