Website: http://www.houseabouthomeinspections.com Email: david@houseabouthomeinspections.com Phone: (518) 505-8305 Delmar NY, 12054  Inspector: David O'Keefe NYS lic.# 16000038229 INACHI # 08051301 DEC Termite # T4865884

 

Residential Inspection Report
Client(s):	Mr & Mrs Client
Property address:	1 Hometown Ave Hometown, NY
Inspection date:	Saturday, October 25, 2008

This report published on 11/15/2009 10:18:24 AM EST

View summary page

Thank you for choosing HouseAbout Home Inspections. I am confident you will be satisfied with the services I provided. This report outlines the inspection observations, concerns, problems, and any recommendations.

Included in this report is a summary page for your convenience, this is just an overview of major items and/or significant safety related issues that were observed at the time of the inspection. This is not a complete listing of problems, further evaluations needed, or recommendations. In addition, the photographs included may have related commentary with specific references to problems that are only noted in the photo commentary, with just a general reference in the report.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a risk of injury or death
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Improve/Upgrade	Recommend improving/upgrading
	Minor Defect	minor expense/or defect
	Evaluate	Recommend further evaluation by a specialist
	Monitor	Recommend monitoring in the future
	Informational Comment	For your information

Structural Pest Inspection Concerns
Concerns relating to the structural pest inspection are shown as follows:

	Infestation	Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.)
	Damage	Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.)
	Conducive conditions	Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

1) Numerous wall, floor and/or ceiling surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items, preventing a full evaluation of some areas.

2) Concerning mold in a home / building. While we will report any substance that appears to be mold, the only true way to determine if mold is present is to have a mold company/specialist inspect and test for mold. HouseAbout Home Inspections does not perform mold testing or mold inspection's. Any mention of mold in this report should be considered a recommendation to bring in a mold specialist to inspect and test for mold. If you have a specific concern regarding mold, consult a mold specialist for advice.
For more on mold issues visit;
http://www.inspect-ny.com/sickhouse.htm
http://www.epa.gov/mold/pdfs/moldguide.pdf

3) 1) Today's inspection is being done using the Standards of Practice of the
National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) as a
Guideline. The inspection contracts and the limitations and standards
specified therein are an integral part of this report. For a listing of the Standards of Practice go to [url="http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm?PHPSESSID=21528897964cd8c765741b9154e8bd7d']Standards of Practice[/url].

2) Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection and should be addressed separately. This inspection will not result in the information of presence of any environmental hazard that may be present, although if noticed
in the course of my inspection may be reported as a possible concern. There may be environmental concerns that although may be present were not seen by the inspection today since I am not here for that type of inspection.

3) Water is a very destructive force and should be controlled on the outside
to reduce problems that may go undetected for some time on the inside/under the house. Drainage patterns should be monitored and improved as needed to carry water away from foundation. Extend leaders to discharge at least 6' away from building to reduce moisture penetration and foundation damage.

4) Moisture problems may exist in the basement/crawl space as noted in the report and should be evaluated/corrected as possible serious issues. Moisture is a very destructive force that over time may result in structural issues along with health related issues. Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection however and should be evaluated separately if warranted.

4) Structures built prior to 1980 may contain lead-based paint and/or asbestos in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is not included in this inspection. The client should consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement contractors for this type of evaluation. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit:
http://www.epa.gov
http://www.cpsc.gov
http://www.cdc.gov

Photo 18	Photo 19
Photo 20	Photo 24
Photo 7	Photo 16
Photo 17

6) Wood trim on window in rear of house has deteriorated. Rot or water infiltration is likely to accrue in this area. Recommend repairing or replacing trim and painting it to protect it in the future.

Photo 13   Deteriorated window trim

7) Exterior outlet has a broken plug in the socket. Recommend repairing or replacing outlet.

Photo 89

8) One or more outside faucets are missing backflow prevention devices. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing backflow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed. For more information, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_AE079

Photo 14

9) Cracks, settlement and/or heaving areas were found in the driveway. Recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate and repair or replace driveway sections as necessary. Recommend resealing driveway.

Photo 1   Cracked driveway

Photo 2   Cracked driveway

10) Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.

Photo 6

Photo 8   Shrubs close to house

11) Perimeter grading slopes towards building. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the building to direct rainwater away.

Photo 21   Rear of house

Photo 22   Right side of house

12) Small cracks and missing mortar were noted on foundation wall. Recommend repairing these areas to prevent further deterioration of foundation wall

Photo 29   Missing mortar

Photo 30   Missing mortar

13) Some of the patio pavers are cracked or have sunk down. Only minor damage has accrued thus far.Recommend repairing these pavers before any more damage can accrue to prevent a trip hazard from forming.

Photo 12   Damaged and sunken pavers

14)

Photo 3   Gas & Electric meters	Photo 5   Intake & exhaust for furnace
Photo 9   Right side	Photo 10   Back
Photo 11   Rear Entrance	Photo 25   Basement window
Photo 98   Driveway	Photo 100   Front Entrance
Photo 101   Front of house

15) The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

Photo 47

16) The clothes dryer exhaust duct appears to need cleaning. Significant amounts of lint build up was found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire from decreased air flow. This duct should be cleaned now and annually, or more often if necessary in the future. Some chimney sweeps or heating/cooling duct cleaners perform this service. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html or http://chimneykeepers.com/dryerclean.html

Photo 23

17) Kitchen stove does not appear to have an anti-tipping bracket installed. This could prove hazardous for children. I recommend an authorized stove repair company install this safety device.

Photo 91   SAMPLE PHOTO

18) The clothes dryer exhaust duct runs across an electrical outlet and an electrical panel box. This is a safety hazard due to the possibility of fire. Recommend moving exhaust duct away from any electrical outlets or panels.

Photo 48   Vent hose in front of electric panel

Photo 55   Dryer vent near outlet

19) Kitchen and Laundry pictures

Photo 28	Photo 46   Washer/Dryer
Photo 90

20) Toilet is loose. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new wax ring should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.

21) Sink and tub drain slowly. Recommend clearing drains.
Tips for clogged drains:

Keeping the Drains Clear:
1. By pouring a pot of hot water down the drain once a week will melt away any fat or grease that may have built up in the drain line or P-trap.
2. If you have a clogged drain, just pour a 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/2 cup of white vinegar down the drain. Cover the drain and let the mixture sit for a few minutes, then pour a pot of hot water down the drain. This will break down fats and also keep the drains smelling fresh.
3. Every six months, keep your drains clean by using a copper sulfide or sodium hydroxide-based drain cleaner, or other recommended drain cleaner available from your local store.

Photo 27

22)

Photo 26   Main bathroom

23) No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets installed. GFCI outlets help prevent electric shocks in areas that may have water present. Recommend having a qualified electrician install one or more GFCI outlets, especially over counter tops and around sinks.

24)

Photo 39   Bathroom/laundry room

Photo 41   Bathroom/laundry room

25)

Photo 31   Living room	Photo 32   bedroom #2
Photo 33   Living room	Photo 34   living room
Photo 35   Bedroom #2	Photo 36   Bedroom #3
Photo 40   Bedroom #1	Photo 42   Family room
Photo 43   Family room	Photo 44   Bedroom #1
Photo 45   Rear slider door

26) Recommend that this system be serviced every two years in the future by a qualified heating and cooling technician.
Visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html

Photo 53   Furnace shutoff	Photo 54   Furnace
Photo 57   Furnace

27) The outdoor air temperature was below 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the inspection. Damage can accrue to unit if operated under these conditions. Because of this, the inspector was unable to operate and fully evaluate the cooling system.

Photo 4   AC compressor

28) The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years. This water heater appears to be at this age or older and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.

Photo 56   Water heater

Photo 58   Water heater systems

29) Plumbing drain uses an s-trap rather than a vented p-trap. Water seals (the water lying in the bottom of the u-shaped pipe) may be lost when discharges occur in the system, resulting in sewer gases entering the structure. Recommend having a qualified plumber evaluate and replace s-traps with vented p-traps where necessary.

Photo 60

30)

Photo 49	Photo 52   Water meter
Photo 61	Photo 69

31) White conductors are only allowed to be used for grounded conductors (not 'hot' conductors), and, when use for other than grounded conductors (i.e., when used as 'hot' conductors) the white conductors are required to be re-identified by painting, taping or other approved means , and must be permanently re-identified with a color suitable for that use, i.e, "black" or "red" in most cases. This permanent re-identification is to be done at all terminations and at all areas visible and accessible, i.e., if you can see the white wire used as a 'hot' wire and you can access it, then that portion must be permanently re-identified to the appropriate color.

This is a safety concern.

Photo 63

Photo 92

32) I was unable to locate the ground wire from the service panel. The service must be connected to a ground rod outside the house and also bonded around the water meter in the house. A jumper connected on both sides of the meter must be made to allow the meter to be removed without losing a ground connection. Recommend a qualified and licensed electrical contractor evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

Photo 62

Photo 94

33) One or more screws are missing or are the wrong type from the main service panel cover and should be replaced. Because energized wiring may exist behind the holes with the missing screws, recommend that a qualified, licensed electrician replace these screws, or that care be taken to ensure that the new screws do not come in contact with wiring inside the panel when they are installed. Stock screws from the panel manufacturer should be used, or their equivalent.

34) One or more overcurrent protection devices(circuit breakers or fuses)in the panel were "double tapped", where two or more wires are clamped in a terminal designed for only one wire. Some circuit breakers are designed to accept two wires, this could not be determined. This is a safety hazard since the bolt or screw may tighten securely against one wire, but leave others loose. Arcing, sparking and fires may result. Recommend having a licensed electrician evaluate and repair.

Photo 65

35) The legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate. Evaluation by a qualified electrician may be necessary.

Photo 59   Incomplete legend

36) The sub panel cover couldn't be removed due to lack of access from the dryer duct.This panel wasn't fully evaluated. Repairs should be made so the panel cover can be easily removed.

Photo 88

Photo 95

37) Wire splices and/or wiring are exposed due to not being contained in a covered junction box. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install securely mounted junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.

Photo 50   Exposed connections

Photo 51

38) White efflorescence (powder substance) on block wall indicates moisture is in contact with the masonry. This does not necessarily indicate that intrusion will occur. I recommend checking the gutters and the downspout drain lines for proper operation. Also, a water proofing paint could be applied to the interior side of the block if necessary. Efflorescence is found on many homes without water intrusion occurring inside the home. But, it should alert you to the possibility that future steps may be needed.

Photo 64

Photo 66

39) Small cracks were observed on the basement walls which is not uncommon for a house this age. Recommend monitoring cracks in the future for continued movement.

Photo 68

Photo 71

40)

Photo 67   Basement rec room	Photo 70
Photo 72   Basement rec room	Photo 73   Basement
Photo 74   Basement	Photo 75   Basement

41) Exposed wiring due to splices not being contained in junction box. Recommend having a licensed electrician install junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.

Photo 77   Exposed wire connections

Photo 84

42) No fireblock is installed around the metal chimney. Fireblocking provides a cut off in concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and forms an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space. The fireblocking of spaces between chimneys and Wood joists, beams or headers shall be self-supporting or be placed on strips of metal or metal lath laid across the spaces between combustible material and the chimney. Recommend installing fireblocking where necessary or, because the chimney is no longer in use, removing the chimney and sealing up the chase properly. A qualified contractor should make the necessary repairs.

Photo 79   Chase for chemney

Photo 93   Fireblock for chimney- SAMPLE PHOTO

43) One or more exhaust fans have no duct and terminate in the attic. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in the attic from the exhaust air. A qualified contractor should install ducts and vent caps as necessary and as per standard building practices so exhaust air is vented outside.

Photo 85

44) Insulation in attic is less than an R30 rating. Recommend installing additional insulation for better energy efficiency.

45) No insulation or weatherstripping is installed over the attic access door. Recommend installing insulation behind door for better energy efficiency.
Visit: http://www.batticdoor.com/ for product information.

Photo 38   Attic access

46) A mold like substance was observed on the roof sheeting. While we will report any substance that appears to be mold, the only true way to determine if mold is present is to have a mold company/specialist inspect and test for mold. Mold in attics is due to poor ventilation and moisture. Ventilation in this attic has been improved recently with the addition of a ridge vent and soffit baffles. New roof shingles were recently installed also. Recommend monitoring attic for any increase in mold and venting bathroom exhaust to exterior.

Photo 81

Photo 86

47) Stains were visible on the roof structure in one or more areas. These areas were dry at the time of the inspection. The stains may be caused by a past leak.

Photo 82

48) Attic pictures

Photo 15	Photo 76
Photo 78	Photo 80   Chimney
Photo 83	Photo 87

49) All houses, buildings and each unit in a multi-family house should have a carbon monoxide (C/O) detector . A (CO) detector was not located in this house. The detector should be mounted low toward the floor as carbon monoxide is heavier than air. Several C/O detectors are best. One near the heating system and hot water supply and one on each floor of the home. Again, mount C/O detectors low toward the floor.
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
http://www.homesafetycouncil.org/index.aspx

50) Smoke Detectors are noted when present but are not tested or inspected. It is recommended that all smoke detectors be replaced when new owners move in. Ionization technology responds first to fast, flaming fires while photoelectric technology responds faster to slow smoldering fires. Having both types would be ideal. When installing detectors it is recommended that they be placed at each level and in each bedroom of the house. Placement should be in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Smoke detectors should be replaced at 10 year intervals or per manufacturer's suggestion. Batteries should be changed twice a year.
For more information on smoke detectors visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html

Photo 37

51) AFCI(Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers provide increased protection by detecting a condition known as an arc fault, which can occur from damaged wiring, overheated or stressed electrical codes, worn electrical insulation, wires and/or cords in contact with vibrating metal, damaged electrical appliances and more.
AFCIs are intended to mitigate the effects of arc faults by de-energizing the circuit when an arc fault is detected.
Two types of AFCIs are available — branch/feeder and combination. Both types are intended to be installed at the origin of a branch circuit or feeder, such as a panel board or load center. The branch/feeder AFCI detects parallel arcing faults, which can occur line-to-line, line-to-neutral and line-to-ground.
The combination AFCI takes the technology one step further and detects not only parallel arcing, but also series arcing, which is useful in identifying lower-level arcing in both branch circuits and power supply cords. A series arc can occur when the conductor in series with the load is unintentionally broken.

52) Due to the cryptic nature of termites it may not be possible to determine conclusively whether or not termites are present simply based on visible evidence of termite infestation. Destructive testing or damage to the premises may be necessary to detect infestations.

53)   Cracks in concrete foundations and open voids in concrete foundations are conducive conditions for wood destroying insects and should be repaired.

Photo 96

54)   Bathroom vent terminating in attic is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and should be repaired.

55) The property was tested using short term protocols for the presence of radon using the above listed device. The test and analysis have been performed to comply with EPA radon test protocols. The average radon concentration at the time the sampling was conducted and the specific location within the building is listed above. Be aware that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. No tampering was observed during the radon test.
For more information visit;
http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html
http://www.nyradon.org/

Photo 97

56) The average level of the two canisters is 3.5 pCi/l. This is below the required action level set by the EPA, so no action is required at this time. However, it must be noted that radon concentrations will vary from day to day and from season to season. The EPA suggests getting a property tested for radon every two years, or if any major changes above/or additions have been done to the property. Radon levels less than 4.0 pCi/L still pose some risk and in many cases may be reduced. If the radon level in your home is between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L, EPA recommends that you consider fixing your home.
The national average indoor radon level is about 1.3 pCi/L. The higher a home’s radon level, the greater the health risk to you and your family. Smokers and former smokers are at especially high risk. There are straightforward ways to fix a home’s radon problem that are not too costly. Even homes with very high levels can be reduced to below 4.0 pCi/L. EPA recommends that you use an EPA or State-approved contractor trained to fix radon problems.
For more information visit:
http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html
http://www.nyradon.org/

Virtually all real estate has problems, regardless of age or usage. It is not my purpose to compile a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list of items that need repair, but to document the general condition of the residence and to note any visible major defects. This is not a comprehensive document about the structure and should not be relied upon as such. Cosmetic considerations (paint, wall covering, carpeting, window coverings, etc.) and minor flaws are not within the scope of the inspection. Although some minor and cosmetic flaws might be noted in this report as a courtesy to you, a list of the minor and cosmetic flaws noted here should not be considered a complete, definitive, or exhaustive list and should not be relied upon as such. Routine maintenance and safety items are not within the scope of this inspection unless they otherwise constitute visible major defects as defined in the Home Inspection Agreement. This report does not include all maintenance items and should not be relied upon for such items.

All conditions are reported as they existed at the time of the inspection. The information contained in this report may be unreliable beyond the date of the inspection due to changing conditions.

Home Inspectors, Licensed Specialists, and Experts;

Inspectors are generalists, are not acting as experts in any craft or trade, and are conducting what is essentially a visual inspection. Some state and local laws, therefore, require that inspectors defer to qualified and licensed experts (e.g., plumber, electrician, et al.) in certain instances. If inspectors recommend consulting specialists or experts, it is possible that they will discover additional problems that a home inspector generalist cannot. Any listed items in this report concerning areas reserved by New York law to such licensed experts should not be construed as a detailed, comprehensive, and/or exhaustive list of problems or areas of concern.


David O'Keefe