Website: http://www.houseabouthomeinspections.com Email: david@houseabouthomeinspections.com Phone: (518) 505-8305 Delmar NY, 12054  Inspector: David O'Keefe NYS lic.# 16000038229 INACHI # 08051301 DEC Termite # T4865884

 

Residential Home Inspection Report
Client(s):	Mr Home Owner
Property address:	Main Street Hometown, NY 12121
Inspection date:	Saturday, August 02, 2008

This report published on Sunday, February 19, 2012 11:36:24 AM EST

View summary page

Thank you for choosing HouseAbout Home Inspections. I am confident you will be satisfied with the services I provided. This report outlines the inspection observations, concerns, problems, and any recommendations.

Included in this report is a summary page for your convenience, this is just an overview of major items and/or significant safety related issues that were observed at the time of the inspection. This is not a complete listing of problems, further evaluations needed, or recommendations. In addition, the photographs included may have related commentary with specific references to problems that are only noted in the photo commentary, with just a general reference in the report.

How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a risk of injury or death
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Improve/Upgrade	Recommend improving/upgrading
	Minor Defect	minor expense/or defect
	Maintain	Recommend ongoing maintenance
	Evaluate	Recommend further evaluation by a specialist
	Not Inspected	Item or component was not inspected/tested or limited inspection done
	Informational Comment	For your information

Wood Destroying Organism Concerns
Concerns relating to wood destroying organisms are shown as follows:

	Infestation	Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.)
	Damage	Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.)
	Conducive conditions	Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.)

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms. Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

1) 1) Today's inspection is being done using the Standards of Practice of New York State as a Guideline. The inspection contracts and the limitations and standards specified therein are an integral part of this report.
For New York State's Standards of Practice go to:http://www.dos.state.ny.us/lcns/professions/homeinspector/codeofethics.htm
2) Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection and should be addressed separately. This inspection will not result in the information of presence of any environmental hazard that may be present, although if noticed in the course of my inspection may be reported as a possible concern. There may be environmental concerns that although may be present were not seen by the inspection today since I am not here for that type of inspection.

3) Water is a very destructive force and should be controlled on the outside to reduce problems that may go undetected for some time on the inside/under the house. Drainage patterns should be monitored and improved as needed to carry water away from foundation. Extend leaders to discharge at least 6' away from building to reduce moisture penetration and foundation damage.

4) Moisture problems may exist in the basement/crawl space as noted in the report and should be evaluated/corrected as possible serious issues. Moisture is a very destructive force that over time may result in structural issues along with health related issues. Environmental issues are out of the scope of today's inspection however and should be evaluated separately if warranted.

2) Pictures are included to help you understand and see what I saw at the time of the inspection. They are intended to show an example or illustration of an area of concern but may not show every occurrence and may not accurately depict its severity. Also note that not all areas of concern will be pictured. Do not rely on pictures alone. Please read the complete inspection report before your inspection contingency period expires.

3) I do not test for indoor air quality or pollution. However, indoor air pollution ranks very high on the list of health problems associated with our homes, especially with the advent of vinyl dual-pane doors and windows. Previously, there could be some leakage expected around doors and windows, resulting in the house breathing. With better windows, insulation, weather stripping, sealants, etc., our homes are not allowed to breathe anymore, resulting in our breathing in many of those contaminants that once leaked to the outdoors. If you or anyone in your family, or circle of friends who might visit, have allergy problems or breathing problems such as, but not limited to, asthma, you should have the indoor air quality tested and abatement procedures implemented as necessary. If children under the age of six, any elderly persons, or anyone with a compromised immune system (such as those having had recent surgery, or those with HIV or any other immune-suppressing disease) will be living in or visiting the residence, please consult with a licensed environmental hygienist to help you protect the health of those individuals.
For information on indoor air quality visit:
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/states/newyork.html

4) The residence is furnished, and in accordance with industry standards we only inspect those surfaces that are exposed and readily accessible. We do not move furniture, lift carpets or rugs, nor do we remove or rearrange items within closets or cabinets. On your final walk through, or at some point after furniture and personal belongings have been removed, it is important that you inspect the interior portions of the residence that were concealed or otherwise inaccessible and contact us immediately if any adverse conditions are observed that were not reported on in your inspection report.

5) In accordance with my standards of practice, I identify foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces in foundations are quite common. In fact, it would be rare to find a raised foundation wall that was not cracked or deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation that did not include some cracks concealed beneath the carpeting and padding. Fortunately, most of these cracks are related to the curing process or to common settling, including some wide ones called cold-joint separations that typically contour the footings, but others can be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils that can predicate more or less continual movement. We will certainly alert you to any suspicious cracks if they are clearly visible. However, I am not a specialists, and in the absence of any major defects I may not recommend that you consult with a foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert.

6) One or more sections of the roof covering appear stained. An algae known as Gloeocapsa Magma is the most likely culprit. This algae infects homes in nearly 80 percent of the homes across the United States. Gloeocapsa Magma is a species of algae that causes black streaking and discoloration on asphalt/fiberglass shingles. The black staining you see on many roofs is caused by the life cycle of algae and fungus spores that land on houses via wind or wildlife. While this algae can grow just about anywhere, it prefers humid environments. A preferred food source of this algae is limestone which is used as filler material by most shingle manufactures. Higher quality shingles are manufactured with preventative measures such as copper or zinc containing granules. Several methods exist to prevent and clean infected areas. Installing zinc or copper strips near the roof ridge can prevent further algae growth. Application of bleach (non-chlorine) can aid in removing the stains, as well as many available commercial cleaning products. Some products may harm vegetation beneath roof eaves or near downspout extensions. While many remedies can be performed by the home owner, we recommend the use of qualified professionals due to the extreme danger and risk of injury or death associated to roof repairs and cleaning.

Photo 13

7) The overhead service conductors had inadequate clearance from tree branches at the time of the inspection. This condition should be corrected by a qualified electrical contractor to avoid abrasion and damage to the wires. Work around electrical wires should only be performed by a qualified contractor. Injury or death may result from attempts at correction by those without proper qualifications.
Visit: https://www.nationalgridus.com/niagaramohawk/non_html/safety_tree_veg.pdf and https://www.nationalgridus.com/non_html/Understanding_Responsibilities_05-2009.pdf

Photo 28

8) Outside outlet at front of house did not work. Recommend a qualified electrical contractor replace it with a GFCI protected outlet.

Photo 26

9) Outlet in screen room is non GFCI. Recommend qualified electrical contractor replace outlet with a GFCI protected outlet. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all outdoor receptacles have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.

Photo 51   Outlet in screen room, non GFCI

Photo 65

10) The trim on the underside of the bay window is missing. Untreated wood is exposed. Recommend having qualified contractor repair or replace as necessary.

Photo 23   Bay window

Photo 24   Under Bay window,no trim

11) One or more outside faucets were not the "frost-free" design and did not have backflow prevention devices installed. "Frost Free" faucets help prevent outside faucets from freezing and bursting in cold weather. Back flow prevention devices, also known as anti-siphon devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If insecticides or other chemicals in a sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes. Recommend installing both frost free and backflow prevention devices on all outside faucets.

Photo 25

Photo 62

12) Shrubs are in contact with siding. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects. Recommend pruning or moving shrubs so there's at least a one foot gap between shrubs and siding.

Photo 27

13) One or more sections of foundation and/or exterior walls are excluded from this inspection due to lack of access from vegetation, debris and/or stored items.(Photo 28 above)

14)

Photo 15   Front Entrence	Photo 16   Driveway
Photo 17   Basement Window	Photo 19   Roof Penetrations
Photo 20   Chimney with flue liner and cap	Photo 21   Patio
Photo 22   Rear of house

15) One or more garage electric receptacles appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all garage receptacles, except for one for use with a refrigerator or freezer, have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.

16) Garage-house door isn't auto-closing. Recommend installing hinges with springs or an automatic door closing device so door closes automatically to prevent vehicle fumes from entering building.

Photo 61

Photo 57   Illustration

17) The garage vehicle door doesn't appear to "auto-reverse". The door should reverse when closing and when it either strikes something or something passes through a photo sensor at the base of the door. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. Recommend having a garage door contractor evaluate and repair.

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html

18) The automobile door opened and closed with some difficulty. Garage door track is not level which may contribute to problem. Recommend having a qualified contractor repair as necessary.

Photo 29   Track runs uphill

19) Garage, stored items

Photo 30

Photo 31

20) The main service panel and the electrical outlet for the washer is in close proximity to the washer drain line. This is a safety hazard. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as necessary.

Photo 36   Washer drain line(red), washer outlet(green), electric panel(blue)

21) The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

Photo 4   Dryer vent hose

22) No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices (outlets or circuit breakers) are visible for the kitchen. GFCI devices help prevent electric shocks in areas that may have water present. Recommend having a qualified, licensed electrician install GFCI protection for outlets, over counter tops and around sinks.

23) Kitchen stove does not appear to have an anti-tipping bracket installed. This could prove hazardous for children. I recommend an authorized stove repair company install this safety device.

Photo 59   Illustration

24) Leak at drain under sink. Recommend having a qualified plumbing contractor repair leak.

Photo 52   Kitchen sink drain line

25) Washer and dryer

Photo 1

26) Kitchen

Photo 54

Photo 55

27) Sink drains slowly. Recommend clearing drain.
Tips for clogged drains:

Keeping the Drains Clear:
1. By pouring a pot of hot water down the drain once a week will melt away any fat or grease that may have built up in the drain line or P-trap.
2. If you have a clogged drain, just pour a 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/2 cup of white vinegar down the drain. Cover the drain and let the mixture sit for a few minutes, then pour a pot of hot water down the drain. This will break down fats and also keep the drains smelling fresh.
3. Every six months, keep your drains clean by using a copper sulfide or sodium hydroxide-based drain cleaner, or other recommended drain cleaner available from your local store.

28) Main Bathroom

Photo 33

Photo 34

29) Half Bathroom

Photo 44   Loose cover plate,needs screws

30) No visible concerns observed on day of inspection.

31) Two-pronged electric receptacles rather than three-pronged, grounded receptacles are installed in one or more interior rooms. They are considered to be unsafe by today's standards and limit the ability to use appliances that require a ground in these rooms. Examples of appliances that require grounded receptacles include:

# Computer hardware
# Refrigerators
# Freezers
# Air conditioners
# Clothes washers
# Clothes dryers
# Dishwashers
# Kitchen food waste disposals
# Information technology equipment
# Sump pumps
# Electrical aquarium equipment
# Hand-held motor-operated tools
# Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
# Light industrial motor-operated tools
# Hedge clippers
# Lawn mowers

This list is not exhaustive. A qualified electrician should evaluate and install grounded receptacles as per the client(s)' needs and standard building practices.

Photo 3   2 prong outlet, bedroom #1	Photo 49   2 prong outlet, Family room
Photo 53   2 prong outlet, kitchen	Photo 58   Illustration

32) Wire connections exposed due to missing cover(s) over one or more switch boxes and outlet boxes. Recommend installing covers over boxes where missing.

Photo 2   Dinning room switch,no cover	Photo 37   No cover plate
Photo 42   Master Bedroom,no cover plate	Photo 48   No cover plate, Family room

33) The pocket door from the dinning room to the kitchen is stuck,off track. Recommend repairing.

Photo 43

34) The Casement windows in the family room appear to be stuck and will not open. Recommend repairs be made.

Photo 47   Windows stuck

35)

Photo 38   Master Bedroom	Photo 39   Master Bedroom
Photo 40   Bedroom #1	Photo 41   Bedroom #2
Photo 45   Living Room	Photo 46   Dinning room
Photo 50   Family Room

36) Recommend that this system be serviced every two years in the future by a qualified heating and cooling technician.
Visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
Annual Boiler Tuneup Checklist

Photo 6

Photo 18

37) No visible concerns observed on day of inspection.

Photo 7

38) No smoke alarm is visible above the main electrical panel. This is a safety hazard due to the possibility of fire from the panel. Recommend installing a smoke detector.

39) Legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate.

Photo 70

Photo 64

40) The main service panel cover couldn't be removed due to lack of access from washer and dryer installed in front of electrical panel. This panel wasn't fully evaluated.

Photo 5

Photo 60   Illustration

41) Although the plumbing waste line is vented through the roof it is also vented out through the side of the house near the patio. Odor from the waste line may be detected while sitting on the patio.

Photo 10   Vent stack out to patio area(red),Clean out(green),House trap(blue)

42) Plumbing in basement

Photo 8   Water meter, Grounding wires	Photo 63
Photo 35   Washing machine drains

43) Cover plate(s) are missing from one or more electric boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be installed where missing.

Photo 11   Missing plate, between joists

Photo 56   Missing plate, bottom of stairs

44) A sump pump is installed on the premises. This may indicate that water accumulates inside or below the structure. Recommend asking the property owners how often the sump pump operates and for how long at different times of the year. Also, the clients should be aware that the service life of most sump pumps is between five and seven years, and that the pump may need replacing soon depending on its age and how much it operates.
It is always recommended to install a 12 volt battery back-up on all sump pumps. This is to prevent flooding in case of power outage.

Photo 9   Sump pump

45) Basement rec room

Photo 12

46) One or more exhaust fans have no duct and terminate in the attic. This is a conducive condition for mold and wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in the attic from the hot steamy exhaust air. They should be vented through the gable end or out through the roof. We commonly see these vents stuffed out near the soffit area, occasionally this works, but more then likely the hot steamy air never makes it to the outdoors.A qualified contractor should install ducts and vent caps as necessary and as per standard building practices so exhaust air is vented outside. Better building practices call for R8 rated insulation on these ducts.
For more information visit: http://www.nachi.org/bathroom-ventilation-ducts-fans.htm

Photo 69

47) No insulation or weatherstrip was installed at one or more attic access hatches. Recommend installing insulation and weatherstrip at hatches where missing for better energy efficiency. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/_docs/atticaccess.pdf

Photo 32   Attic acess

Photo 66

48)

Photo 67

Photo 68   Roof vent

49) An insufficient number of smoke alarms are installed. Smoke Detectors are noted when present but are NOT tested or inspected. Pushing the built-in test button does not ensure that the smoke sensor is functional. It only establishes that the electrical circuit and audible alarm are functional. It is recommended that all smoke detectors be replaced when new owners move in. Ionization technology responds first to fast, flaming fires while photoelectric technology responds faster to slow smoldering fires. Having both types would be ideal. When installing detectors it is recommended that they be placed at each level including the basement and in each bedroom and laundry room of the house. Placement should be in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Smoke detectors should be replaced at 10 year intervals or per manufacturer's suggestion. Batteries should be changed twice a year.
For more information on smoke detectors visit Smoke Alarms
http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?categoryID=1647&itemID=39905&URL=Safety%20Information/For%20consumers/Fire%20&%20safety%20equipment/Smoke%20alarms/Smoke%20alarm%20safety%20tips&cookie_test=1

50) Natural gas service is present at the house. Before spending the first night, ensure that proper carbon monoxide detectors are present. The detector should be mounted low toward the floor as carbon monoxide is heavier than air. Several C/O detectors are best. One near the heating system and hot water supply and one on each floor of the home.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors are widely available in stores and you should buy one as a back-up -- BUT NOT AS A REPLACEMENT for proper use and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. It is important for you to know that the technology of CO detectors is still developing, that there are several types on the market, and that they are not generally considered to be as reliable as the smoke detectors found in homes today. Some CO detectors have been laboratory-tested, and their performance varied. Some performed well, others failed to alarm even at very high CO levels, and still others alarmed even at very low levels that don’t pose any immediate health risk. And unlike a smoke detector, where you can easily confirm the cause of the alarm, CO is invisible and odorless, so it’s harder to tell if an alarm is false or a real emergency.
For more information visit: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/coftsht.html http://www.homesafetycouncil.org/index.aspx http://www.carbon-monoxide-poisoning.com

51) Recommend cleaning dryer vents annually. Clogged dryer vents will reduce the efficiency of the dryer and are known to cause house fires. Remove vent from rear of the dryer and vacuum the internal dryer duct. Next, vacuum the inside of the vent, disassemble joints on longer vent pipes and clean as much as possible.
Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper.
Exhaust ducts should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct. (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
Exhaust duct terminations should be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s instructions. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml