Exterior and Foundation
5) One or more minor cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These didn't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitor them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including hydraulic cement, non-shrinking grout, resilient caulks and epoxy sealants.
6) The back door's doorbell appeared to be inoperable. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.
7) Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines was in contact with or close to the building exterior. Vegetation can serve as a pathway for wood-destroying insects and can retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend pruning, moving or removing vegetation as necessary to maintain at least 6 inches of space between it and the building exterior. A 1-foot clearance is better.
8) Caulk was missing in some areas. For example, at wall penetrations. Recommend that a qualified person renew or install caulk as necessary. Where gaps are wider than 1/4 inch, an appropriate material other than caulk should be used. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/_docs/FPL_Caulking_Ins_Outs.pdf
Attic and Roof Structure
16) The pull-down attic stairs were not insulated. Typically, such stairs that are not insulated also do not have any weatherstripping installed. Recommend that a qualified person install insulation and weatherstripping per standard building practices for better energy efficiency. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?q=insulate+attic+stairs
17) The ceiling insulation installed in the attic was substandard and appeared to have an R rating that's significantly less than current standards (R-38). Heating and cooling costs will likely be higher due to poor energy efficiency. Recommend that a qualified contractor install insulation for better energy efficiency and per standard building practices.
Electric
20) One or more electric receptacles (outlets) at the bathroom(s), exterior had no visible ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, or the inspector was unable to determine if GFCI protection was present. If not GFCI-protected, receptacles in wet areas pose a shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate and install GFCI protection if necessary and per standard building practices. General guidelines for GFCI-protected receptacles include the following locations:
- Outdoors (since 1973)
- Bathrooms (since 1975)
- Garages (since 1978)
- Kitchens (since 1987)
- Crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990)
- Wet bar sinks (since 1993)
- Laundry and utility sinks (since 2005)
For more information, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/099.pdf
22) The service drop wires had no drip loop where they attached to the service mast, or the drip loop was substandard. This can result in water entering electric panels, and is a potential shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician repair per standard building practices.
23) One or more ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) type receptacles (outlets) had an open ground. GFCI receptacles will work (trip) without a ground; but a 3-slot receptacle on an open ground circuit can result in appliances that require a ground can be used without one. This is a potential shock hazard. Recommend that a qualified electrician upgrade circuits that require GFCI protection (e.g. in wet areas) with grounded wiring per standard building practices.
24) 2-slot receptacles (outlets) rather than 3-slot, grounded receptacles were installed in one or more areas. These do not have an equipment ground and are considered unsafe by today's standards. Appliances that require a ground should not be used with 2-slot receptacles. Examples of such appliances include computers and related hardware, refrigerators, freezers, portable air conditioners, clothes washers, aquarium pumps, and electrically operated gardening tools. The client should be aware of this limitation when planning use for various rooms, such as an office. Upgrading to grounded receptacles typically requires installing new wiring from the main service panel or sub-panel to the receptacle(s), in addition to replacing the receptacle(s). Consult with a qualified electrician about upgrading to 3-wire, grounded circuits.
25) The inspector was unable to open and evaluate main panel because the cover was paneled over and blocking access. The panel is excluded from this inspection. Recommend that repairs, modifications and/or cleanup should be made as necessary so panels can be opened and fully evaluated.
Fireplaces, Stoves, Chimneys and Flues
32) No spark screen or rain cap was installed at one or more chimney flue terminations. Spark screens reduce the chance of embers exiting the flue and causing fires. They also prevent wildlife (e.g. birds, rodents, raccoons) from entering flues. Rain caps prevent water from entering flues, mixing with combustion deposits and creating caustic chemicals which can corrode flues. They also prevent damage to masonry from freeze-thaw cycles and prevent metal components (e.g. dampers, metal firebox liners) from rusting. Recommend that a qualified person install rain caps with spark screens per standard building practices where missing.
33) The brick chimney had some deterioration. For example, loose or missing mortar, cracked, broken, loose or spalled bricks. Loose bricks can pose a safety hazard, and deteriorated masonry can allow water to infiltrate the the chimney structure and cause further damage. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary.
34) The masonry chimney crown was cracked. Crowns are meant to keep water off of the chimney structure and prevent damage from freeze-thaw cycles. Chimney crowns are commonly constructed by mounding concrete or mortar on the top chimney surface, however this is substandard. A properly constructed chimney crown should:
- Be constructed using either precast concrete slabs, cast-in-place steel reinforced concrete, solid stone, or metal
- Be sloped down from the flue a minimum of 3 inches of fall per foot of run
- Extend a minimum of 2 1/2 inches beyond the face of the chimney on all sides
- Not directly contact the flue liner (if installed), with the gap filled with flexible caulk
- Have flashing installed between the bottom of the crown and the top of the brick chimney
Recommend that a qualified contractor repair or replace crowns as necessary, and per standard building practices.
Bathrooms, Laundry and Sinks
37) The bathroom with a shower or bathtub at location didn't have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture can accumulate and result in mold, bacteria or fungal growth. Even if the bathroom has a window that opens, it may not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when windows are closed or when wind blows air into the bathroom. Recommend that a qualified contractor install exhaust fans per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers or bathtubs.
38) The sink drain pipe at location #B used an S-trap rather than a P-trap. Siphons and sudden flows of water in S-Traps can drain all the water out of the trap, leaving it dry. Sewer gases can then enter living areas. Recommend that a qualified plumber repair per standard building practices.
39) Grout in the bathtub surround at location #A was deteriorated (e.g. loose or missing grout) or substandard. Water can damage the wall structure as a result. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair as necessary.
40) Rubber water supply hoses were installed at the clothes washer. These hoses are prone to bursting when deteriorated, which can result in flooding and significant water damage. Recommend upgrading to braided, stainless steel hoses.