Darrell's Home Inspections
Phone: (937) 477-6917 · (937) 233-6004
FAX: (937) 233-5539
Click here to see a sample report
So glad you came to visit ! I am passionate about serving your inspection needs all the way to closing and beyond !
Remember to choose a "Certified whole house inspector who can give you : A full service experienced same day online report with color pictures
Mold, radon, well quality/quantity, roof, partial and termite reports
Apartment units
90 Home Warranty included
You can call me " in network " Verizon # 937-477-6917
Construction and rehab background using quality tools such as TIF 8800A gas detector, SureTest electric tester, moisture meters, CO monitors and video based inspection scope to look behind walls and pipes.
Clear/concise online reports generated same day
Free contractor referral service
NACHI Member in good standing current with CE requirements for 2008, check out certification at www.nachi.org 
Patient-willing to take time for your questions and needs.
Serving Montgomery, Clark, Miami, Butler, Shelby and Greene counties since 2003
Most inspections begin around $265.00
My fax is 937-233-5539
e-mail is dfreshour@oh.nachi.org
Listed in http://www.inspectiondirectory.com
accepted
Understanding Your Inspection
Home inspectors- Buying and selling real estate is a complicated process. We highly recommend that you use a Realtor to help you with your transaction. Realtors are like home inspectors. They come from various backgrounds but have had to go through a significant amount of training to enter their chosen profession. Realtors understand buying and selling real estate, including home inspection reports. We believe their knowledge and expertise is invaluable to you in your real estate transaction. However, while Realtors know a lot about home inspections and home inspection reports, they are not home inspectors. And while home inspectors know a lot about real estate, they are not Realtors. Seek help from the appropriate source when you need it. If there is any question about the information in your home inspection report, please call your home inspector first, and then call your Realtor. We usually also touch base with your Realtor whenever you call us with a question.
Home inspection standards- The home inspection industry is relatively young. The National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) is a premier home inspection association consisting of master inspectors who have all successfully passed NACHI's Inspector Examination, adhere to Standards of Practice, abide by a Code of Ethics, attend required continuing education courses, and are NACHI Certified.
The National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) has inspection standards which list the items to be inspected, and the exclusions there from. The quality of any inspection, however, is the knowledge, skill, and effort the inspector puts into the inspection. Darrells Home Inspections documents findings in an easy-to-understand report, which is site-specific to each home and may include areas you can't see or items, which you might not be familiar with. Some of our recommendations will relate to homeowner safety and regular home maintenance, and some will concern improvements or upgrades (without stating them as such). All are intended to give you a better understanding of the condition of your home and how to be safe in it. Please visit www.NACHI.org for a complete list of standards and our Code of Ethics.
Sometimes Darrells Home Inspections must recommend further evaluation by licensed specialists or experts, the most common of which are electricians, plumbers, roofing contractors, pest control service, and civil or professional engineers (structure, soils, or geotechnical). Home inspection standards of practice typically allow inspectors to offer opinions or evaluations on any subject with which they are sufficiently familiar and experienced, so we recommend specialists when we deem it necessary and in the best interest of our Clients. If you have any questions, please call us at 937-477-6917.
Building codes- A home inspection is not a substitute for a building inspection or a code compliance inspection, nor do home inspectors interpret or cite building codes. Inspecting for code compliance and interpreting building codes is the sole and legal responsibility of municipal authorities. A home inspector inspects the visible and accessible areas of a home in accordance with generally accepted national home inspection standards (see Home Inspection Standards).
Municipalities use a combination of the International Residential Code, the Uniform Building Code, the International Plumbing Code, the Uniform Plumbing Code, and the National Electrical Code (Ohio also has its own codes). General guidelines typically state that building codes are not retroactive. In most situations, buildings are required to be maintained under the code that was in effect at the time of original construction, and that such requirements remain true as long as the building is used for its original intended purpose. General guidelines also state that alterations or repairs must conform to that required for a new structure without requiring the existing structure to comply with all of the requirements of the codes, and that additions, alterations, or repairs must not cause an existing structure to become unsafe or adversely affect the performance of the building.
If you or your Realtor's response to an area of concern or a recommendation in our report is, "Well, they didn't have that (or they didn't do that) when the house was built," we know that. However, during the ensuing years, our knowledge has increased considerably concerning safety in the home, and we believe that you should be safe in your home or that taking care of your home should be as easy as possible. So we will recommend things that they didn't have or do years ago simply to keep you safe or help you take care of your home. A good example of a safety item is the installation of GFCI safety outlets (those electric outlets typically with the red and black buttons on them; see GFCI outlets later in this section). They are inexpensive, life-saving devices that have only been around for about twenty years. If you have any questions about why we recommend something, please call us at 937-477-6917.
Your home inspection report- The primary objective of a home inspection is to provide you with information about the home and any major defects before you buy it. All homes have defects; the perfect home does not exist. Potential homebuyers often incorrectly view an inspection report as a mandatory repair list for the seller. The fact is that sellers are not required to produce a flawless house. They have no such obligation by law or by contract; therefore, most repairs are subject to negotiation between the buyer and seller. Typically, buyers will request that various conditions be repaired before the close of escrow, and sellers will usually agree to some of those demands. But with most building defects, sellers make repairs as a matter of choice, not obligation, in order to foster good will or to help accomplish the sale. Sellers can refuse any repair demands except where requirements are set forth by state law, local ordinance, or the real estate purchase contract. Purchase contracts usually stipulate that fixtures be working, that windows not be broken, and that there be no leaks in the roof or plumbing.
Before you make any demands of the seller, try to evaluate the inspection report with an eye toward problems of greatest significance (see "What Really Matters"). Look for conditions that compromise health and safety or involve potential or active leaks in the plumbing or the roof. Most sellers will address problems affecting crucial areas or items- such as the roof, electrical, and plumbing problems- and big-ticket items such as the furnace and water heater. Please consult with your Realtor to help you work through an appropriate repair request list to present to the seller. And if you have any questions about any item in your home inspection report, please call us at 937-477-6917.
Why we're not specific- When we're not specific about where a problem is, it is not because we're trying to be obstinate or that we didn't make specific notes about your home. There really is some logic about the method to our madness. When we are specific about a problem, it is because the problem is not common and is not expected to re-occur once it has been resolved. An example of being specific would be when we state that the hot water faucet in bathroom three did not work. When that is corrected, it is not expected to re-occur in the near future, and such an abnormal condition is not common and is not to be expected to exist at the same time in the other bathrooms.
An example of not being specific would be when we state that corrosion was present on the water and drainage pipes and valves in sink cabinets. We may not note what specific sink because corrosion is so common that it could be present at the water and drainage pipes and valves in all sink cabinets by the time you move in. Additionally, especially in a furnished residence, we usually can't see many of the common problems because they are obscured by furnishings, storage, etc. (read the following section concerning "Home inspectors as movers"). When we are not specific, it is our goal to force you to examine all similar areas when you move in (or as soon as all furnishings have been removed) and then take appropriate action for the conditions described generally in the report and which you might see upon your inspection of similar areas. We realize that at times this can be confusing or frustrating to you, so if you have any questions about our not being specific, please call us at 937-477-6917. It doesn't do you or us any good if you're sitting in your home confused, frustrated, wondering, or blaming the home inspector for missing something.
If you are requesting repairs of the seller for an item on which we were not specific, we believe your request should use the term "all." For example, instead of requesting that the screen window in bedroom three be replaced (screen windows are easily damaged during move-out), request that "all screen windows be present and undamaged after move-out," or something like that. Consult with your Realtor to help you prepare an appropriate list of requested repairs for the seller. And again, don't be afraid to call us at 937-477-6917 if you have any questions or need clarification.
Home inspectors as movers- We often get asked why we didn't move something during the course of our inspection. Insurance concerns are the main answer. We do not know how much an item might have cost its owner, or the special history of any item, so our insurance precludes us from moving something and possibly damaging it. Even the unlikely-looking item could be a priceless heirloom, or a priceless heirloom could be in that common cardboard box. Additionally, if we were to move only one item, case law would require us to move every item. Obviously, time constraints preclude us from taking on that role. Home inspectors are not movers, and we do not know of any movers who are home inspectors. They are two different professions.
Blame the home inspector- Home inspectors get blamed for a lot of stuff, especially when the residence is occupied and fully furnished or when the residence is vacant and unfurnished; in other words, all the time.
A home inspection is a visual inspection of the structural and mechanical components. A furnished home presents problems for inspectors because many areas typically are not visible due to floor coverings (carpet, tile, area rugs, etc.), furnishings, storage, packed moving boxes, wall hangings and mirrors, etc. Use of electric outlets typically prevents the testing of every electric outlet because we're not going to unplug equipment that belongs to someone else to test an outlet. Interior furnishings and storage typically prevent access to, inspection of, or opening every window, cabinet, closet, or door.
Here's what typically happens with occupied and fully furnished residences. Since the residence is being lived in and systems are being used on a daily basis, it is possible that something will be damaged or fails during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process, especially when children are present. Homeowners rarely damage something during escrow and file a claim against their homeowner's insurance policy because, hey, they think it's not even their home anymore. They think you own it. Why should they fix something that belongs to you? Some sellers actually do not understand (or do not care) that they still own the home during the escrow period and should continue to take care of it.
Selling a home and leaving is a stressful event. To help relieve that stress, sellers and buyers typically have "moving parties," "last parties," "first parties," or "housewarming parties." Or they move hurriedly so they don't have to take too much time off from work or use up vacation days or sick leave. The actual days of moving are when most post-inspection damage occurs, and usually it is by the guests (or movers) helping the owner (seller or buyer) move, so the owner may not even know anything about the damage that has occurred. In both these instances, sellers like to say, "Your home inspector must not have seen that." Buyers like to say, "Our home inspector missed that."
Here's what we know, though: Windows and window screens, and doors and door screens, are easily damaged during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process. Lights, switches, outlets, etc., can be damaged or fail. Because of the location of water supply and drainage pipes in our sink cabinets, where we start cramming things immediately upon move-in, plumbing pipes are easily damaged during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process, possibly causing loose pipes and leaks. Lights, wall switches, and outlets (electrical, telephone, and cable) get a lot of use during the escrow period, during the move-out/move-in process, and for those various parties, and thus are easily damaged.
In other words, by the time the buyer is completely moved in, there could be anything that just isn't right or isn't the same as it was on the day of the inspection. That, of course, is the nature of real estate.
So how do you remedy all this post-inspection damage? There are a couple of ways. First, we believe the purpose of your final walk-through is not only to make sure that any requested items have been repaired, but also to make sure that additional damage, deterioration, and destruction beyond normal wear and tear has not occurred. We recommend a careful, slow, and thorough observation with your Realtor at your final walk-through to ensure your satisfaction. Second, after you have had your own moving parties, walk around your home and check for damage caused by your guests. You're very likely to find some; in many instances, your guests may not even know that they caused damage.
If you have any questions about anything, please feel free to call us at 937-477-6917.
Unplugging equipment, testing outlets, or dismantling equipment- We do not unplug any item to test an outlet. We have a choice of unplugging every item or unplugging no items. Making decisions on a case-by-case, site-specific, or equipment-specific basis on what to unplug would not be fair to all Clients, and unplugging every item presents problems when there is programmable equipment, sensitive equipment that could be damaged by power surges when plugging the equipment back in or turning it on, lost data from programs running on computers, and safety concerns. In many cases, looking at the equipment's switches and lights tells us whether the outlet is functioning, although looking at equipment will not tell us if the outlets are wired or grounded properly. If you have any concerns about any specific outlet, particularly if it is going to be used for sensitive equipment, have the outlet tested by a qualified electrician. We also do not disassemble or dismantle items, such as furnaces, cooling condensers, water heaters, etc. We will remove the outer and inner covers of electric panels that are safely accessible to look at the wiring inside; we will not remove any circuit breakers to look for bad contact points, rust, or corrosion since doing so would require disconnecting electric service to the structure. Our methods are consistent with generally accepted home inspection standards. If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 937-477-6917.
Shutoff valves, circuit breakers, electric outlets, and gas pilots- Only a visual inspection of shutoff valves and circuit breakers is done. We not only want you to be safe in your new home, we want to be safe while we are inspecting your new home. Therefore, we do not turn any water or gas shutoff valves on, move any electric circuit breakers to the "on" position, plug in anything that has been unplugged, or light any gas pilots, simply because we do not know why the valves or breakers were off, why the equipment was unplugged, or why the gas pilots were turned off. Turning valves and breakers on, plugging in equipment, or trying to light gas pilots without such knowledge can cause property damage, personal injury, and, in a worst case scenario, loss of life. We also do not do any of the opposite functions, i.e., turning water or gas shutoff valves off, moving electric circuit breakers to the "off" position, unplug anything that is plugged in, or extinguish any gas pilots. The function of the water heater TPR discharge pipe cannot be determined since it is connected to a valve; it is given a visual inspection only. Any circuit breakers that were in the "off" position are noted as such and are not switched to the "on" position. If breaker-tripping problems are detected, you should seek the guidance of a qualified electrician; circuits might be overloaded or a short might have been caused at an outlet or switch during the move-out/move-in process.
Due to the constant pressure in the water supply lines and the lack of daily use of shutoff valves at the toilets, sinks, and water heater, the valves can fail at any time. Many sellers try to be helpful by turning off all the water shutoff valves at the toilets, sinks, and water heater as the last thing they do when they move out. This typically is exactly the wrong thing to do. In many cases the valves are very difficult to turn due to rust, corrosion, and/or mineral build-up from hard water, and when they are forced, they break and leak when they are turned back on. We recommend that you have qualified personnel inspect water shutoff valves at the toilets, sinks, and water heater before close of escrow to ensure proper operation. If you choose not to have the water shutoff valves at the toilets, sinks, and water heater inspected and tested before close of escrow, we recommend that you instruct the sellers to leave the water on at all water-using appliances, particularly if you are going to be moving in within a couple of days or so. If you intend to leave the residence vacant for any period longer than a weekend, please read the section titled "Vacant Residence."
Vacant residence- A vacant residence presents its own types of problems. Although vacant residences typically are unfurnished, meaning that we can see virtually everything, residences that are vacant for any period of time can be expected to present problems upon move-in. Some structural and mechanical components and systems that have not been used on a daily basis can be expected to fail upon first use. A home is meant to be used, meaning that a fully functioning home requires proper use, care, and maintenance. When a residence is vacant, there is no one to do regular monitoring and maintenance. Think about the "haunted house" in your neighborhood or city when you were growing up. It was vacant and dilapidated, and deterioration was continuing on a daily basis because no one was around to take care of it. This is the same with any vacant residence, new or used. Deterioration is an ongoing process; it does not quit simply because a residence is vacant. We recommend that, during the escrow period, you compile a list of qualified service personnel (plumber, electrician, appliance repair, etc.) and telephone numbers to assist you in the event of any emergency during the move-in process.
If the residence has been vacant for more than a few days prior to the home inspection, there is a possibility that the testing we did during the home inspection might have caused some problems. For example, the most common problem caused by home inspections in vacant residences has to do with plumbing leaks. When water faucets and drainpipes are not used on a regular basis, their components can dry out and harden. The first time they are used, then, might result in damage to interior components, such as o-rings at the water faucet. The damage might not be apparent until you turn the water faucet on when you move in. Our testing might have damaged the dried out, hardened o-ring while your first operation of the same faucet after our testing actually dislodged the o-ring fragments and caused the faucet or handles to start leaking. It's no one's "fault," really; it's just a consequence of what happens with vacant homes, when homes are not lived in, used, and maintained on a daily basis.
Hydrogen gas can accumulate in hot water systems that have not been operated for a period of time, such as in vacant residences. Under adverse conditions, this hydrogen gas can cause fires at faucets and explosions at water-using appliances. If your new home has been vacant for more than a few days, flush the hot water system by turning on all hot water faucets and letting them run for several minutes. Do not use the hot water faucets near any open flames (cigarettes, candles, etc.) and do not use any hot-water-using appliances (dishwasher) or nearby heat-producing appliances (dishwasher, cook top, etc.) until the hot water system has been flushed. If you have a multi-story residence, start turning on hot water faucets in the highest floor first and work your way down to the lower floors.
If you have any questions about anything, please call us at 937-477-6917.
Newer home or older home?- The main advantage to a newer home is that there is less damage, both from Mother and Father Nature and from previous occupants. You typically get to create your own damage or watch it happen naturally. The main disadvantage to a newer home is that you do not know what kind of damage Mother and Father Nature are going to inflict upon your house. What you see may not be what you get years down the road.
The main advantage to an older home is that Mother and Father Nature have already inflicted the majority of their damage upon your house, and additional damage probably won't occur unless major rainfall or seismic activity occurs, or unless you alter the landscaping or remodel the structure itself. What you see is what you get. Unfortunately, you typically don't get to create your own damage or watch it happen naturally, and there are no fond memories associated with the damage that is there.
We typically define a newer home as one that is less than ten years old. An older home, of course, is defined as one that is more than ten years old.
When a house is being built, the ground is graded and tentatively landscaped. Regular rainfall throughout the year would help our houses settle gradually. This means that if you move into your house in December, you may not see any settlement activity (typically known as common wall and ceiling cracks) until the first major rainfall comes the following spring, or even later after prolonged periods of drought. Then, all of a sudden, boom! Settlement damage occurs after the first rains. You might even consider it major settlement damage, even when it is common settlement damage, simply because it happened to your house. Your beautiful new home is now a wreck and collapsing around you as you sleep. This is not necessarily so.
If the house is a newer home, less than ten years old, you might notice hairline cracks develop at both interior and exterior locations, particularly at door and window corners, and typically in a diagonal manner. Usually these are common stucco and drywall cracks. Sometimes these cracks will follow the drywall seams, forming perfectly straight lines and 90 degree corners. When they follow drywall seams, they can appear anywhere, depending on the quality of the workmanship, how well the drywall sections were fitted together, whether or not seam tape was used, the quality of the seam tape, the type of nails or screws used to secure the drywall, the number of screws or nails used to secure the drywall, and the quality and thickness of the ceiling or wall texture. Ceiling and wall texturing, and painting, prevent home inspectors from inspecting workmanship to determine why drywall seam cracks appear. Now refer to the index and read the section on "Cracks."
If the house is more than ten years old, most settlement activity probably, but not necessarily, has already occurred simply because it probably has been through a few years of good rainfall. This presumes many things in the older home, though, such as the house having been well-maintained by previous homeowners; fully functional gutters and downspouts in place; grading and drainage directing water away from the foundation; vegetation which has not been allowed to grow on the roof or siding, or too close to the foundation; and any leaks in the roof, plumbing, or drainage systems, as well as any damage from those leaks, having been repaired immediately to prevent additional damage, which sometimes might be concealed in the walls or ceiling. Those are a lot of presumptions, and typically not all of them are valid for any property. Any type of renovation or remodeling of any section of an older home is going to uncover problems or defects which are not noted in this report, typically because they could not be seen or detected, especially in a furnished structure. Knowing this, you should budget appropriately for unexpected and unforeseen circumstances during any remodeling.
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)- For your reference, should recalls or safety concerns be announced (previously or in the future), we recommend you visit the CPSC web site (http://www.cpsc.gov) concerning equipment, products, and appliances in your home.
The CPSC web site is very easy to use and has an on-line subscription service (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.asp) for notification of any recalls or safety concerns. There are many subscription choices, including subscribing to recalls involving only selected products, e.g., infant/child products, sports and recreation products, outdoor products, household products, and specialty products. There are literally thousands of recalls and safety concerns that have been released since the Consumer Product Safety Commission began operating in 1973, and they all are listed. Not all recalls and safety concerns make the headlines of your local newspaper. Darrells Home Inspections recommends that you subscribe to all CPSC press releases, including recalls. This will alert you to all recalls and safety concerns in all categories.
Cracks- It is the nature of many construction materials to crack as they expand and contract, particularly with exposure to moisture as they get wet and dry out, and as they age. The more common of these materials include concrete, asphalt, stucco, brick, mortar, concrete block, plaster, sheetrock (also known as Gypsum(TM) and drywall), and stone.
Common cracks are typically, but not always, defined as hairline cracks less than one-eighth inch wide or less than twelve inches in length. Almost by definition, concrete and stucco will crack, simply because the material shrinks and cracks as it dries, cures, and ages. Common cracks in concrete and stucco are also called shrinkage cracks. Common cracks can appear at any time in the life of a structure, typically running diagonally from door and window corners where they typically are of least concern.
Major cracks are typically defined as more than one-eighth inch wide, more than twelve inches in length, excessive in number, unusual (stair-step, V shaped, straight horizontal, or straight vertical), or in unusual locations (such as middle of a wall with no doors or windows nearby). If major cracks are present or appear, Client should seek additional evaluation from a qualified civil engineer specializing in foundations and structures. Some major cracks occur simply due to neglect and ignorance about how to take care of common cracks. In other words, a common crack can become a major crack if it is ignored.
If the affected structure is over ten years of age, cracks PROBABLY do not pose any threat of significant additional short-term damage with NORMAL CLIMATE, NORMAL RAINFALL, and NORMAL SEISMIC ACTIVITY. However, cracks and areas around all cracks should be repaired and monitored on a regular basis, especially during periods of high rainfall or immediately after seismic activity, and a qualified civil engineer should evaluate any additional damage. If Client is unfamiliar with common cracks, Client should seek the specialized services of a qualified civil engineer for further evaluation and information. Major settlement cracks, particularly in the foundation, walls, ceilings, and/or attached porches/patios, should be inspected BEFORE CLOSE OF ESCROW to help protect your investment in this piece of real estate. Major settlement cracks in driveways, walkways, and other areas typically are more cosmetic than of a critical failure nature but should still be evaluated by a qualified professional. Recommend repair and/or replacement of affected components and regular monitoring and maintenance to seal and weatherproof cracks to help prevent additional damage and accelerated deterioration.
Although you might be willing to accept a house with more than its fair share of common and major cracks in various areas, the person who seeks to purchase your house somewhere down the road may not be so accepting, thereby leaving you to make repairs then, at which time additional damage might have occurred due to ongoing neglect. It is in your best interest to take care of both common and major cracks now.
Taking care of your house- The easiest way to take care of your house is to keep unwanted moisture away from the exterior, particularly the foundation, and out of the interior, particularly the attic, closets, and cabinets. This typically means little or no watering next to your foundation. This typically translates into no high-water-use plants next to your foundation. What's a high water-use plant? Typically big plants, tropical plants, and plants that have large foliage or lots of flowers. This means regular monitoring and maintenance of the exterior roof, walls, and foundation, and the structural and mechanical components attached to them. This means regular monitoring and maintenance of the interior, including walls and floors under upper stories. What is regular monitoring and maintenance? Home ownership! It is not easy being a homeowner, and there will be many things that become problems while you own your home and which you will need to spend money to resolve. We recommend proactive preventive maintenance rather that after-the-fact reactive repair. To that end, throughout this report you will read the phrase "Recommend regular homeowner monitoring and maintenance." This phrase means that things will fall apart or become problems if you don't take care of them. Some items will need to be monitored and maintained daily (sink cabinets, etc.--see "Sink cabinets and chemical storage" for more information on how to easily and effectively monitor your sink cabinet plumbing on a daily basis), monthly (GFCI outlets, etc.), or annually (roof, water heater, fireplace, gas-using appliances, etc.). You're investing a substantial amount of money in a home. Please take care of it or hire professional service people to take care of it for you.
Your roof- Climate and seasons will play havoc with your roof. Here's what happens. When the lumber was ordered for your house, it was what we call "green lumber," having typical moisture content of 20% or higher. The natural drying process as the house was being built typically causes the moisture content to fall to between 7% and 10%. Now that construction is finished, the house suffers through beautiful sunshine, torrential rain, winter snow and ice, and several months of drought. During those seasons, the moisture content can fall to between 1% and 3%, and climb back to 10% or more, causing shrinkage and expansion gaps between wood components. At the same time, the flashing sealant on the roof is aging, drying out, becoming brittle, and cracking. Now the spring rains come. Leaks everywhere! Yes, the roof and flashing on your house in our climate can fail at any time.
Here's how to protect your investment without spending a lot of money and without waiting until thousands of dollars worth of damage occur to the interior because of a roof leak. Put in your annual home maintenance budget a couple of hundred dollars or so for a roofing contractor. Every October when you set your clocks back (or any other easily remembered day in the Fall, but definitely before the rainy season), pay a qualified roofing contractor to come out and examine your roof and give it the A-OK (some roofing contractors may also provide warranties against leaks for a year or two). Now you should make it through the rainy season with no problems. And come on, a couple of hundred dollars or so in preventive maintenance for the roof is much, much better than waiting until it leaks and going through the anguish of a major roof leak, damage to the structure interior and furniture, and possible damage to your books, pictures, photographs, and other priceless mementoes of you and your family (like your wedding album and your children's baby pictures).
Your roof covering will last a long time in our climate if you'll do three things: make sure your attic has (1) adequate ventilation (e.g., any combination of gable, soffit, static, turbine, and ridge vents; and attic fans), (2) adequate insulation, and (3) give a roofing contractor a couple of hundred bucks or so each year, or toward the end of whatever warranty period the roofing contractor provides you, to inspect your roof and flashing.
Corrosion- Corrosion build-up is often present on pipes and valves in sink cabinets, at toilets, and at the water heater. Although corrosion is common, it can indicate leaks, static electric charges on metal pipes, dissimilar material connections (typically between two different metals), and/or chemical storage nearby, particularly in sink cabinets; other causes also are possible. Such corrosion build-up in all visible areas might not be noted in this report because it is so common. However, a significant build-up of corrosion could be concealing an active leak, although the leak in such cases usually is minor. Remember, though, that neglecting a minor leak can result in a major leak. At that point, you could have major water damage and significant mold or mildew. What might have been considered light corrosion at the time of the inspection could have been the start of a problem and a more serious build-up of corrosion could be present by the time escrow closes. Any pipes that have corrosion should be cleaned and inspected. Check the pipes and valves in the sink cabinets before storing items in those cabinets. Regular homeowner monitoring and maintenance is easy to do, read the following paragraphs on sink cabinets, chemical storage, and caulking and grouting.
Sink cabinets and chemical storage- Think about what's typically located in your sink cabinets: the underside of stainless steel sinks, garbage disposal metal casing, copper water supply pipes, and plastic or metal drainage pipes.
Corrosive chemicals affect plastic and metal, and continued corrosion and rusting can eventually result in leaks. Most people, though, store everyday chemicals in the sink cabinets. This is the absolute wrong place to store such items because most cleaning chemicals by their very nature are corrosive. So, do not store chemicals in sink cabinets. Additionally, children won't gain access to harmful and dangerous chemicals. And no one ever takes all those chemicals out of the sink cabinets to inspect the cabinet floor and the water and drainage pipes unless they're moving, or a significant leak is noticed, or a child is injured after gaining access to the chemicals.
Water supply and drainage pipes should be monitored regularly, and here's how to do it virtually on a daily basis with no effort at all on your part: Store dry materials (towels, bathroom tissue, boxes, etc.) in sink cabinets (see Illustration 2). This type of storage allows one to check for leaks in sink cabinets each time something dry is removed. If normally dry materials are wet, check for leaks or deteriorated caulking/grouting around the sink and countertop, and have a qualified plumber repair or replace any plumbing components or have the deteriorated caulking/grouting repaired.
So where should you store such chemicals? A high cabinet in the garage or at an exterior location is great, but if you must keep them inside, an upper hallway closet, the cabinet above the microwave oven, or the cabinet above the refrigerator make great interior locations.
Caulking and grouting- Caulking and grouting is typically found in the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry area at connections between the toilet and floor; the bathtub, floor, and wall; the shower, floor, and wall; and sink and countertop. Deteriorated or cracked caulking or grouting can allow moisture to penetrate into structural framing, causing water damage or promoting the growth of mold. It is impossible to tell how long deteriorated grouting or caulking has existed, and moisture might have penetrated subject areas and caused damage, which is not visible and can only be determined by remodeling/renovation or destructive testing. Before deteriorated grouting or caulking is repaired, the substructure should be examined for evidence of structural damage or deterioration.
Recaulking and regrouting is common homeowner maintenance. While recaulking and regrouting normally is not a cause for concern, and homeowner maintenance typically is to be applauded, in today's world of mold disclosure and mold claims, Client should understand that the time of, and reason for, the recaulking/regrouting cannot be determined and that moisture penetration into the structural framing might have occurred, possibly causing structural damage or promoting mold growth. Remodeling or removal of shower and/or bathtub sections could indicate moisture damage or structural damage that was concealed at the time of the inspection; concealed defects are not within the scope of the home inspection.
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) safety outlets- These are the outlets that typically have black and red test buttons on them. Safety outlets should be present near all sources of water and near metal-encased appliances that do not have electric motors (such as a cook top, oven, coffee maker, toaster, etc.). GFCI-protected outlets are outlets which are "downstream" of GFCI outlets, meaning that they are on the same circuit as a GFCI outlet. If there is no electricity to a protected outlet, the GFCI outlet at a separate location might have tripped and disconnected electricity to the circuit. Typical areas where you might find GFCI or GFCI-protected outlets include garage, laundry, kitchen, bathrooms, and exterior locations.
You should test the GFCI outlets as soon as you move in, noting at the same time any protected outlets that may be present and which GFCI outlets control those protected outlets; typically the protected outlets should be labeled as such. Although they are proven life-saving devices, they are known to fail on a regular basis and should be tested monthly to ensure that they are functioning properly. To test the GFCI outlet, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. Turn the light on, and then press the "TEST" button on the GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet's "RESET"button should pop out, and the light should go out. If the GFCI outlet is functioning properly, meaning that the light does go out, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet. If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not go out, either the GFCI outlet is not working properly or it is incorrectly wired. Call a qualified electrician to evaluate the problem. Usually the kitchen GFCI outlet will control any other outlets in the kitchen (sometimes more than one GFCI outlet is present in the kitchen). Sometimes all the bathroom outlets are placed on the same circuit, with only one GFCI outlet protecting the outlets in all the bathrooms. Occasionally a GFCI outlet in the garage will protect outlets in various bathrooms. Such garage installations can be inconvenient, particularly in multi-story buildings.
If GFCI outlets trip regularly, consult a qualified electrician immediately to determine why the tripping is occurring. GFCI outlets trip quite often when hair dryers are used on the circuit due to the electricity surge typically needed to start the dryer. If you notice this happening, try starting the dryer on the lowest setting and then moving up to the higher setting after a few seconds. If your circuit continues to trip, consult a qualified electrician for further evaluation.
Carbon monoxide- Carbon monoxide can be a byproduct of the incomplete combustion of natural gas, wood, or any carbon-based fuel. It is a clear, odorless, and tasteless gas, and can cause death if gone undetected. Extended exposure to low levels (sometimes not detected by inexpensive carbon monoxide detectors) can cause long-term health problems. Carbon monoxide detectors with a minimum sensitivity of 30 ppm and with no time delay should be installed at locations where natural gas appliances or fireplaces are used. Darrells Home Inspections also recommends installing carbon monoxide detectors on each floor of multi-story structures and at the entrances to bedrooms.
Mold- Mold, mildew, and other toxic organisms commonly occur in areas that show evidence of, or have the potential for, moisture intrusion and/or inadequate ventilation. Any area or item exhibiting such conditions can be a health hazard to some people, particularly children, pregnant women, the elderly, and other people whose immune systems are compromised. Most of us know what mold looks like and smells like. The key to controlling mold is controlling moisture: reduce moisture (keep the interior of your house dry and the humidity level below 45%), remove visible signs of mold, and disinfect surfaces. If a water invasion occurs, eliminate the water source and dry, repair, and/or replace any wet areas and items as quickly as possible.
Thousands of different types of mold occur naturally throughout the world, but apparently only a few of them cause health problems. Mold spores move naturally through the air and can be found in every area of the home, and there's nothing you can do about it. You are breathing it as you are reading this. It grows on most building materials as long as the requisite moisture is present. Because mold requires a high moisture content in order to grow and thrive, homes with levels below grade/ground are more susceptible to mold growth than homes built on slabs and above grade/ground. However, since many homeowners do not regularly inspect their own homes for water and drainage leaks, mold problems do occur in all homes and buildings. You can prevent mold from growing and thriving in your home, and affecting your health, by inspecting your home on a regular basis (monthly at a minimum) for water and drainage leaks; see previous section on "Sink cabinets and chemical storage."
If you see mold or smell musty odors, chances are great that you have mold growing in your home, and you should first seek out and correct the problems that are providing the mold with the moisture that it needs to grow and thrive. Remove all the items stored under your sinks and inspect the water and drainage pipes, valves, and connections for leaks. Have any leaks repaired immediately by a qualified plumber. Inspect around sink basins, bathtubs, and shower stalls for deteriorated grouting or caulking. These are areas where water can penetrate into the structure's walls and framing, allowing mold to thrive in those spaces. After using your shower or bathtub, you should use your exhaust fans or open the windows located in the bathrooms to help prevent a build-up of moisture in those areas.
Darrells Home Inspections is not a mold-testing laboratory; therefore, the identification of specific types of mold is beyond the scope of the home inspection and we cannot state unequivocally whether any specific type of mold is or is not present. When we do smell musty odors or see mold-like substances growing, we, of course, note it in the report for you. If you want to know what specific type of mold is present, you should seek the services of a qualified industrial hygienist or a qualified mold-testing laboratory. Only they have the necessary knowledge and laboratories equipped to determine what types of mold are growing and thriving in your home.
Again, the identification of the organism(s) is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If, after reviewing the below information, you have additional questions or want further investigation, Darrells Home Inspections recommends that you contact a Certified Industrial Hygienist, usually listed in the yellow pages under "Industrial Hygiene Consultants" to determine if there exists an ongoing climate for incubation or microbial contamination and that steps be taken to eliminate this climate.
There is a lot of controversy over the issue of mold and mold testing. Neither the New York City Department of Health nor the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), recommend measuring airborne fungal levels. The EPA publication "A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home" states "Is sampling for mold needed? In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary." Money spent on testing is not available for cleanup.
Darrells Home Inspections recommends that information from the following sources be reviewed prior to spending any money on mold testing. You may want to identify and review other sources of information.
United States Environmental Protection Agency information available on the EPA web site at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html provides a document titled "
"A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home"
Various articles on the Building Science Corporation web site at: http://www.buildingscience.com Click on the link "Learn More about Mold".
The New York City Department of Health Web Site at:
http://www.ci.nyc.ny.us/html/doh/home.html
Use the search function for mold.
Remember...... to choose a quality, experienced inspector who will put your interest first, not their own pocketbook !
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