Home Inspection Report ****** Inspected by Jim Glemming NC License #002751 ****** "Post Inspection Walk-Through provided to Clients" ******
Client(s):
John & Jane Doe
Property address:
123 Any Street Sunset Beach, NC 28468
Inspection date:
Wednesday, March 3, 2021
This report published on Thursday, April 8, 2021 8:56:47 AM EDT
This report, in accordance with the Standards of Practice of the North Carolina Home Inspector Licensure Board [or South Carolina Home Inspectors Licensing Board if premises inspected is in South Carolina], and is a report of a visual inspection of the readily visible and safely accessible areas of the building listed on the initial page. At the time of inspection, any area which is not clearly and readily exposed to view, is concealed (for example by roofing, siding, plywood, floor covering, molding, trim, masonry, insulation, etc.) - intentional or otherwise, or is inaccessible because of soil, snow, water, walls, floors, carpets, ceilings, furnishings, plywood/wood, concrete blocks/bricks, or vinyl finishing trim, unsafe access, or any material used to construct and finish the building - is not included in this inspection and the inspector shall be held harmless for not inspecting these areas. Client agrees to assume all the risk for all conditions which are concealed or inaccessible from view at the time of inspection - the inspector shall be held harmless for not inspecting said areas. No destructive testing, or any form of dismantling, unscrewing, prying, material(s) moving/removing, or furnishings and personal items moving/removing was performed. With respect to crawl spaces, attics, or similar areas - should the inspector deem for any reason whatsoever, at the inspector's sole discretion, that access, partial access, or complete access is unsafe, access is blocked due to obstructions, un-navigable conditions [i.e., height {36" minimum clearance from bottom of floor joist to ground/vapor barrier in crawl space, or 60" height clearance in attic}, excessive personal belongings, etc.], standing water, unsecured/exposed electrical wiring, animals, vermin, snakes, potentially poisonous spiders, or conditions that could cause possible respiratory concerns [i.e., possible mold, mildew, stagnant water, waste water, etc.] - the inspector is not required to inspect or report on those respective areas and is held harmless for not inspecting said areas; the Client should consult with a licensed contractor to evaluate those respective areas. Termite testing/inspecting - visual or otherwise - is beyond the scope of this inspection/report; Client should consult/contract with a licensed pest inspection professional to evaluate past or present termite issues/damage. Determining the structural integrity of the premises, or portions thereof, are beyond the scope of this inspection as only a licensed professional, that specializes in structural engineering, can attest to such integrity - and any comment/reference possibly stated in the report is not an affirmation. Test results for potential mold is not an affirmation that mold exists or doesn't exist, only the possibility; CLIENT would need to contract with a professional that specializes in mold testing/remediation. The inspection report provided to the Client is solely and exclusively for Client's own information and may not be relied upon by any other person. Client agrees to maintain the confidentiality of the inspection report and agrees not to disclose any part of it to any other person without the written consent of Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s). Client may share information contained in the report exclusively with the Real Estate Agent(s) directly in the sale/purchase transaction, and/or the seller of the property, but may not verbally share information within the report, provide a copy or portion thereof of this inspection report, or URL report link to anyone else without Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC's, or its inspector(s), written permission; persons other than the Client are not specifically intended beneficiaries of this inspection report and Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC may seek, and be entitled to, an additional fee equal to that paid by the Client for any such breach referenced above. Only Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s) may provide another party with the URL report link, or a hard copy of this report. Client agrees to indemnify, defend, and hold Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC and/or its owner, inspector(s) harmless from any claims arising out of the Client's unauthorized distribution of the inspection report. Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC maintains ownership of the inspection report at all times and only provides a copy of the inspection report for Clients's use as described herein. If any Realtor is provided a URL report link, or hard copy of this inspection report by Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC and or its inspector(s), said Realtor is prohibited from providing the URL report link, a printed copy, or verbally sharing the information contained within the report to any third party without the written consent of Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s). If Realtor breaches this provision, Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC is entitled to be reimbursed an additional inspection fee from the offending Realtor - not to exceed the fee charged to Client by Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC. Owning any property involves some risk. Even the most comprehensive inspection may overlook issues - which may be uncovered post inspection, nor can an inspection predict what may or may not occur in the future. We are not responsible for conditions that could not be seen, are discovered after the inspection date - whether readily visible or not, regardless of the severity, or were not within the scope of our service at the time of the inspection. The report is an opinion and should not be considered a guarantee of condition. No warranty is expressed or implied. Client shall have no cause of action, for any reason, against Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC, its owner, its inspector(s), agents or employees after thirty (30) days from the date of the inspection; a breach of any of the aforementioned provisions will also hold Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its owner/inspector(s), agents, or employees harmless from any actions, legal or otherwise, taken by Client or Realtor(s) post inspection. If Client does not agree to these terms, Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC, its inspector(s), agents or employees have to be notified within two(2) calendar days via email [info@cchig.com] of this report being "published" by Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC for viewing/printing by the Client, and also must be prior to the use of this report for any purpose or reason. Absent receiving email or written notification from Client within the required time frame, the report and provisions will be deemed as a mutually agreed upon, and also a binding "Agreement" or "Contract" between Client and Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC - subject to the terms stated within the "Agreement" section of the Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC website (www.cchig.com/Agreement.html) - whether that section "Agreement" was completed by Client and submitted to Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or not. Client agrees this acceptance is valid/binding to the terms of the report - as well as to the "Agreement" section of the Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC website (www.cchig.com/Agreement.html). If any inspection findings were verbally conveyed [post inspection walk-through, phone conversation, etc.] or emailed to the Client by the inspector, Client is immediately bound to the terms stated above and also within the "Agreement" section of the Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC website. The email link to review and or print the report is valid for a period of thirty(30) days after being initially published online for review and or printing, and to coincide with the expiration of Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s), agents, or employees liability from any actions, legal or otherwise, taken by Client or Realtor(s) post inspection. Client also understands and agrees that any post-inspection feedback provided by Client to Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s), emailed or otherwise, may be posted to the www.CCHIG.com/whycchig.html website page as a testimonial. Re-activated reports [reports expire after thirty (30) days of posting/publishing] may/can contain updated/revised report/agreement provisions and/or conditions that are binding.
Photo 1-1 Palm should be cut back away from the house to prevent potential damage to siding and window screens. Photo 1-2 Soffit vent grille cover is missing on the west side of the structure. Replacement is recommended.
Photo 1-3 The overall condition of the siding on the structure is very good to mostly excellent. Photo 1-4 The rear NW quarter of the lower deck has a band board that is coming loose and needs to be re-secured.
Photo 1-5 The main whole house water supply line needs to be re-secured to the piling to prevent potential damage and it also needs to be fully insulated to protect the line from freezing during the potential freezing periods of the year. Photo 1-6 Electrical conduit needs to be re-secured at the rear of the structure underneath the first floor rear deck. Failure to do so could allow conduit to sag even further and possibly crack - exposing the wiring within.
Photo 1-7 Exterior shower is functional. It is important to drain this line during the potential freezing months to prevent the possibility of a pipe burst. Photo 1-8 Here on the east side of the structure you can see that the soffit vent grill cover is installed, unlike the south side.
Photo 1-9 There are four glass blocks on the master bathroom window that have seal failure. Replacement is suggested but considering these are foggy and it is a bathroom window, it is primarily aesthetics at this point. Nonetheless, they are defective. Photo 1-10 Weatherstripping on the bottom of the door leading to the large ground-level storage room needs replacement as it is no longer providing a protective seal.
Photo 1-11 Ground-level storage room. Numerous personal items stored within this room prevented full access to all areas for inspection. What could be viewed, appears to be in good condition. Photo 1-12 Storage area under entrance stairway was also filled with personal items and full viewing of the area for inspection was not possible. What could be viewed, was in good condition.
Photo 1-13 The door to the storage area under the stairway is rusting. Door needs to be stripped clean of all rust, prepped, and repainted. Photo 1-14 The ceiling area on the ground level is in very good to mostly excellent condition.
Photo 1-15 One of two lights on the first floor rear deck. Both lights do not function. Most likely the bulbs are defective and need replacement. Photo 1-16 Slider screen in the bedroom on the first floor, NW corner, was difficult to operate and also appears to be coming apart. Repair or replacement is warranted.
Photo 1-17 The storm door leading from the living room to the upper-level deck, east-most door, at the front of the house did not open. Door was screwed shut from the outside. Photo 1-18 Light fixture on the upper level front deck is damaged and replacement is warranted.
Photo 1-19 The storm door from the living room to the upper level front deck was screwed shut. Client needs to inquire with the seller as to the reason why the door is screwed shut. Repair or replacement may be warranted. Photo 1-20 White aluminum trim on the upper-level front deck is corroded and replacement is warranted.
Photo 1-21 Another area where the trim needs to be replaced on the upper-level front deck. Photo 1-22 Slider screen in the bedroom in the upper-level, NW corner, is difficult to open. Adjustment/repair/lubrication may eliminate the issue. If not, replacement is needed.
Photo 1-23 On the upper-level deck, west end rear corner, there is significant damage to the white aluminum trim and steel securing plate. Items need to be repaired or replaced as necessary.
2) Repair/Maintain, Conducive conditions - Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.
Photo 3-1 Proper framing implementation for the deck floor joists. Very good. Photo 3-2 Additional support for the cantilever deck. Excellent.
Photo 3-3 Proper deck framing for floor joists at the rear of the structure. Very good. Photo 3-4 Triple stringers are utilized on all exterior stairways. Excellent. Additional strength is afforded by utilizing triple stringers during construction.
Photo 3-5 First floor rear deck is in very good condition. Recommend sealing with a water protective solution to enhance longevity. Photo 3-6 Front deck is in very good condition. It is recommended that this decking surface, as well as all other deck surfaces, be treated with a water protectant solution to enhance longevity. The deck facing west.
Photo 3-7 First floor front deck facing east. Decking material is in very good condition. Photo 3-8 Although the flashing on the second floor deck is rusted, it is only minor at this point and is functioning as intended.
Photo 3-9 Construction methodologies for the upper front deck appear to be properly implemented. The decking appears to be quite secure - with no readily visible issues noted at the time of inspection. Photo 3-10 Band board on the first floor deck, front, facing east needs to be re-secured to prevent it from falling away from the structure.
Photo 3-11 Upper level deck, rear, is in very good condition. Again, all deck surfaces should have a water protective solution applied to enhance longevity. Photo 3-12 There are two areas that appear to have some type of a stain on the upper-level rear deck, west end. Possibly power washing this area may eliminate the stain or other methodologies may be necessary.
Photo 3-13 View of the upper-level deck, rear, facing east. Photo 3-14 View of the upper-level deck at the front of the structure, facing east. Decking material and railing are in very good condition.
Photo 3-15 View of the front upper-level deck facing west. Photo 3-16 On the upper level front deck there is an elevated deck board that needs to be addressed. At this point and if left un-repaired, it is a tripping and liability concern. Recommend contracting with a qualified professional to remedy.
4) Maintain, Conducive conditions - Recommend cleaning deck(s) and treating with a preservative claiming to waterproof, block ultraviolet light, and stop mildew. Consumer Reports recommends these products:
Cabot Decking Stain and PTW Stain
Olympic Water Repellent Deck Stain
Thompson's House and Deck Stain
Wolman PTW Deck Stain
Akzo Sikkens Cetol DEK
Benjamin Moore Moorwood Clear Wood Finish
DAP Woodlife Premium
Olympic Natural Look Protector Plus
5) Comment - An "inspection" of a deck/porch and attached/connecting stairway(s) by a licensed home inspector is an observation of the readily visible areas/components of the deck/stairway(s) and is not certification or affirmation of a deck's structural integrity or correct construction methodologies. Proper construction components [fasteners{bolts, screws, etc.}, adhesives, attachment, footings, flashing(s), cantilevers, etc.] in many cases can't be ascertained without removal or some dismantling. The inspector's assessment is limited to visual observations. Decking, railing(s), stairways, handrails, joists, columns/pilings, and girders are inspected solely for condition - such as visible wood rot, paint/stain failure, loose decking, and excessive gaps [decking & railings only] - nothing more.
Most all municipalities require building permits to construct a deck/porch [attached or freestanding]. There are also stages of construction where the municipality will require inspections by a municipal employee [appropriate building/code inspector] to ensure proper construction methodologies are used while it is being built. The client(s) may wish to inquire with the local municipality to determine whether permits were provided/granted - and to confirm all construction stages were inspected/approved. Copies of such permits and staged-inspections can usually be made available. The client(s) may also contract with a Structural Engineer to evaluate the deck and its structural attached and components - should there be a concern about the deck's/stairway(s) structural integrity.
Decks/porches and all components [surface deck material, joists, girders, stairway(s), posts/pilings, stairs, and railings] should be monitored on an annual basis by the owner(s). Sunshine, inclement weather and aging can cause decks/stairway(s) to deteriorate. Without regular maintenance and monitoring, decks/stairway(s) once secure and safe can become unsafe. Regular maintenance and monitoring will enhance the longevity of the deck/stairway(s) and ensure they're safe for use. If the client(s) can't or won't provide regular maintenance and monitoring, it is recommended the client(s) contract with a qualified professional.
Roof inspection method: Viewed from ground with binoculars and a zoom lens camera, from neighboring deck
Roof type: Hipped
Roof covering: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Estimated age of roof (years): 12
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Roof ventilation: Inadequate
6) Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 6-1 The roof appears to be in very good condition, most likely the original - 12 years of age, and the ridge caps appear to be secure. There were though, no readily visible signs of roof venting seen/viewed. Photo 6-2 The vent boots are secure and appear to be properly installed. Very good.
Photo 6-3 Another roof plane where the roofing material appears to be in very good condition and all ridge caps secure.
Inspection method: Partially traversed where deemed safe and secure walkways were installed
Roof structure type: Rafters
Ceiling structure: Conventional Lumber Framing
Insulation material: Fiberglass roll or batt
Insulation estimated R value: R-30+/-
7) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 7-1 The roof rafter framing in the attic appears to be well implemented, with no readily visible signs of damage or other issues. Excellent. Photo 7-2 Soffit baffles are implemented to keep insulation away from the sheathing to allow air to enter via the soffit vents. There were no ridge vents viewed, so there was no readily visible area where airflow coming up from the soffits could escape through the roof to keep the attic properly ventilated. Evidence of limited or a lack of sufficient ventilation could be seen on the staples that hold the wiring - which were severely rusted, and the excessive amount of rust and damage to the air handler.
Discussed attic ventilation remedy with client.
Photo 7-3 Adequate insulation exist in all readily visible areas of the attic. Photo 7-4 Another area of attic framing that is in great condition. The arrows indicate where the roof rafters join a hip rafter - with perfect mitre/cuts. Excellent.
Photo 7-5 Pulldown stairs are uninsulated. Accordingly, conditioned air is escaping into an unconditioned attic – thus wasting energy. Insulation is warranted.
8) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Comment, Conducive conditions - Ventilation appears to be substandard in the attic. Inadequate attic ventilation may result in high attic and roof surface temperatures, reduce the life of the roof covering materials and increase cooling costs, corrode/rust HVAC components prematurely and corrode/rust metal items [wiring staples, electrical boxes, etc.]. High levels of moisture are also likely, and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms in certain geographic areas. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of attic space. Vents should be evenly distributed between soffits, ridges and at corners to promote air circulation - or roof-type ventilation systems be implemented. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.
9) Repair/Replace - Pull-down stairs are installed for the attic access. No insulation is installed above the stairs and no weatherstripping is installed around the hatch perimeter. To reduce air leakage, recommend installing weatherstripping and an insulated hatch cover. An example of one can be seen at http://www.batticdoor.com/
Interior air leaking into the attic results in heating and cooling losses, increased energy costs, and a possible increase in moisture levels in the attic due condensation forming on the underside of the roof sheathing during cold weather.
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 200
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main service switch: East side of exterior
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at bottom of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
System ground: Ground rod(s) in soil
Main disconnect rating (amps): 200
Branch circuit wiring type: Non-metallic sheathed
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
10) Safety, Repair/Replace, Comment -
Photo 10-1 The service disconnect panel is extremely rusted and replacement is warranted. This is most likely the responsibility of the power company - but that cannot be affirmed. Photo 10-2 Here you can see that the panel is extremely rusted and the locking tab is not functional. This is a serious security/safety concern.
Photo 10-3 Due to the excessive damage of the panel, it does not fully close and cannot be locked closed. Accordingly, rains have entered the panel which is most likely the cause of the severe rusting. The red arrow indicates the area where a lockable tab should exist - but because of the rusting, it is gone. Photo 10-4 200 amp electrical panel is located on the first floor hallway near the elevator maintenance room.
Photo 10-5 At the time of inspection, the breakers were functional and the panel also appears to be properly labeled. Photo 10-6 In addition to scanning the panel for potential issues, the panel cover was removed for further inspection.
Photo 10-7 The breakers, wires, and connections on the right side of the panel are secure with no signs of melting wires, loose wires, or arcing. Excellent. Photo 10-8 The breakers, wires, and connections on the left side of the panel are secure with no signs of melting wires, loose wires, or arcing. Excellent.
Photo 10-9 The main service lines and ground are secure. Excellent.
11) - In addition to a visual inspection of the breaker panel with the cover removed, the breaker panel & breakers were scanned with a non-contact infrared thermometer to test the breakers for excessive heat. Excessively hot breakers are a strong indication that the breakers are commencing to fail, or there are wires behind the panel that are arcing or possibly melted and shorting. No excessive levels of heat were found with the breakers at the time of inspection. Very good.
12) - AFCI circuit breakers may not trip in response to hand held testers utilized by home inspectors and many testers will not test both branch feeder and combination interrupters. "AFCI Testers" do not produce a waveform similar to that of an arc fault, they cannot produce an actual arc fault, and during an inspector's testing utilizing standard home inspection testing equipment it could result in false positives. In addition, personal appliances and devices throughout the living areas would be reset or disconnected when the circuit is interrupted and electronic devices could be damaged. Accordingly, AFCI breakers [if installed] are only tested at the electrical panel - utilizing the "test" button - to determine whether the AFCI trips when tested. This usually a strong indication that the AFCI is not functional - functional and protecting receptacles and switches within the structure.
Should the client(s) desire to determine whether the individual receptacles/switches are protected by the applicable AFCI breaker in the electrical panel, client(s) should consult/contract with a licensed electrical contractor who have the appropriate/proper circuit analyzers. The testing equipment and analyzers used by electrical contractors is quite expensive and beyond the scope of testing equipment required to be used/purchased by home inspectors.
HW Heater Location: 1st floor guest bathroom closet [west side of structure] - 2nd floor [NE corner guest bedroom closet]
Energy source: Electricity
Capacity (in gallons): 50
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 1st Floor: 122.1° [from bathroom sink, west side of structure] - 2nd Floor: 123.4° [kitchen faucet]
13) Safety, Minor Defect - The hot water temperature when tested at the kitchen sink, and 1st floor bathroom, was greater than 120°. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. Client may wish to have the thermostat settings be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120°, but link below should be viewed for more information on water heater temperature settings.
Here are the "State's" reference to HW Heaters:
The following is a reprint of GS 66-27.1A, “Water heater thermostat settings.” (a) The thermostat of any new residential water heater offered for sale or lease for use in a single-family or multifamily dwelling in the State shall be preset by the manufacturer or installer no higher than approximately 120°F (49°C). A water heater reservoir temperature may be set higher if it is supplying space heaters that require higher temperatures. For purposes of this section, a water heater shall mean the primary source of hot water for any single-family or multifamily residential dwelling including, but not limited to any solar or other hot water heating systems.
(b) Nothing in this section shall prohibit the occupant of a single-family or multiunit residential dwelling with an individual water heater from resetting or having reset the thermostat on the water heater. Any such resetting shall relieve the manufacturer or installer of the water heater and, in the case of a residential dwelling that is leased or rented, also the unit’s owner, from liability for damages attributed to the resetting.
(c) A warning tag or sticker shall be placed on or near the operating thermostat control of any residential water heater. This tag or sticker shall state that the thermostat settings above the preset temperature may cause severe burns. This tag or sticker may carry such other appropriate warnings as may be agreed upon by manufacturers, installers and other interested parties.
Here's a recommended link - related to HW heater temperature settings and bacteria concerns - that may be of interest:
14) Major Defect, Comment - The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years. These water heaters are at this age and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
15) Maintain, Comment -
Photo 15-1 50 gallon Bradford White HW heater in a closet in the bathroom on the first floor, west side of structure, is functional. Hot water temperature output from the bathroom sink next to this closet was 122.1° Photo 15-2 Considering that the hot water heater on the first floor is approximately 12 years of age, the fittings on the top of the tank are in excellent condition - showing no readily visible signs of corrosion or other issues. Excellent.
Photo 15-3 Based upon the serial number of the hot water heater on the first floor, it was manufactured in March [C] 2005 [B]. Accordingly, next month it will be 12 years of age. Photo 15-4 50 gallon Bradford White HW heater in a closet in the upper level bedroom, NE corner, is functional. Hot water temperature output from the kitchen faucet was 123.4°.
Photo 15-5 Considering that the hot water heater in the upper-level bedroom is approximately 12 years of age, the fittings on the top of the tank are in excellent condition - showing no readily visible signs of corrosion or other issues. Excellent. Photo 15-6 Based upon the serial number of the hot water heater in the upper-level, it was manufactured in March [C] 2005 [B]. Accordingly, next month it will be 12 years of age, just like the first floor HW heater.
16) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
During periods of regular extended absence [3 weeks or greater], it is advisable to shut off the power [usually a breaker panel designated for the HW heater in the interior electrical panel - electric tank units only]. This will reduce energy costs - as well as minimize wear on the heating elements within the tank itself. If regular absence is only for a week, or up to three weeks - it is recommended that power to the HW heater NOT be turned off. Short term electrical power disconnects will decrease the useful life of the heating elements within the tank - causing them to fail prematurely.
This is because heating water within the that has completely cooled - which takes on average only a few days for this to occur - based upon tank gallonage, requires the heating elements to remain on for an extended period when power is restored to reheat all the water in a tank to the settings on the tanks thermostats. Allowing the HW heater to remain on during periods of extended absence up to three weeks, will allow the elements to simply "maintain" the desired temperature settings - just recycling on infrequently to maintain water temperatures. This will extend element life.
17) - Testing of the HW heater's Temperature Pressure Relief [TPR] valve is beyond the scope of a home inspector's Standards of Practice, and accordingly, in not tested when the HW heater is being inspected by the inspector.
The Temperature Pressure Relief [TPR] valve should be inspected at least once every three(3) years by a licensed plumbing contractor or authorized inspection agency to ensure that the product has not been affected by corrosive water conditions and to ensure that the valve and discharge have not been altered or tampered with. Certain naturally occurring conditions may corrode the valve or its components over time, rendering the valve inoperative. Such conditions are not detectable unless the valve and its components are physically removed and inspected. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CONDUCT THIS INSPECTION ON YOUR OWN. Contact your licensed plumbing contractor to inspect, and reinspect, to assure continuing safety.
Estimated age: Exterior Condenser Units: Ocean-front unit, 4 years, 11 months....Rear 2 years, 8 months --- HVAC Air Handlers: Ground level room, 4 years, 10 months.....Attic, 11 years, 9 months
Primary heat system type: Heat pump
Primary Air conditioning type: Heat pump
Distribution system: Flexible ducts
Manufacturer: Goodman
Filter location: Living Quarters
Last service date: Unknown
18) Safety, Repair/Replace - Excessive amounts of debris, particulates and/or dust are visible in one or more sections of supply and/or return air ducts. This can be a health hazard, especially for those with allergies or respiratory problems. The Environmental Protection Association (EPA) recommends considering having ducts professionally cleaned when "ducts are clogged with excessive amounts of dust and debris and/or particles are actually released into the home from your supply registers". At a minimum, the visible debris should be thoroughly cleaned. Recommend having a qualified contractor clean the ducts. For more information on duct cleaning in relation to indoor air quality, visit: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html
When taking possession of any new home, it is always advisable to replace any and all return air filters within the house - whether the return air grills are on the walls, ceilings, or direct [on HVAC Air Handler]. Inexpensive fiberglass air filters are not the best choice.
When replacing in the future, click on link below to see air filters with appropriate MERV ratings. MERV ratings are a methodology to determine how much air is filtered. The higher the number the more particulates are captured. It is recommended though, that MERV ratings no higher than 12 be installed because any rating higher than 12 puts excess strain on the blower motor of the air handler unit - and could cause it to wear out prematurely. MERV rating between 8 and 12 is recommended.Inexpensive fiberglass air filter is clean. When replacing in the future, click on link below to see air filters with appropriate MERV ratings. MERV ratings are a methodology to determine how much air is filtered. The higher the number the more particulates are captured. It is recommended though, that MERV ratings no higher than 12 be installed because any rating higher than 12 puts excess strain on the blower motor of the air handler unit - and could cause it to wear out prematurely. MERV rating between 8 and 12 is recommended.
Photo 20-1 Based upon the serial number of the Goodman HVAC air handler located in a ground-level storage room, it was manufactured in April 2012. Accordingly, it will be five years of age this coming April. HVAC air handler is functional. Photo 20-2 Distribution ducts off of the air handler plenum are secure with no readily visible gaps or separation.
Photo 20-3 Based upon the serial number of the Goodman HVAC condenser unit located on the east side of the structure, closest to the ocean, was manufactured in March 2012. Accordingly, it will be five years of age next month. HVAC condenser unit is functional. Photo 20-4 Based upon the serial number of the Goodman HVAC condenser unit located on the east side of the structure, closest to the backyard, was manufactured in June 2014. Accordingly, it will be three years of age this coming June.
Photo 20-5 Ocean-side HVAC condenser unit is in good condition. No excessive signs of rusting or corrosion exist. Photo 20-6 Backyard-side HVAC condenser unit is in good condition. No excessive signs of rusting or corrosion exist.
Photo 20-7 HVAC return air grill on the first floor is severely rusted. Repair or replacement is warranted. Photo 20-8 The duct and plenum, when the air filter was removed, revealed excessive amounts of dust and particulates. This can contribute to respiratory or other health issues. Other air supply ducts/registers were inspected as well - and similar issues exist.
Accordingly, all ductwork within the structure needs to be cleaned and sanitized by a qualified professional. This should be done before taking occupancy of the structure.
Photo 20-9 The air supply duct in the bathroom on the west side of the structure, first floor, is completely filled with debris, dust, and other matter. Duct needs to be cleaned and sanitized. Photo 20-10 All return air filters in the house [this one is in the upper-level] need to be replaced upon taking possession of the home. See link in this section for information related to air filters.
Photo 20-11 The HVAC air handler in the attic is most likely in need of replacement. It is severely corroded, rusted and extensive water damage exists under and around the unit. When the system was activated [via thermostat on the wall in the hallway below] there was a significant bad smell emitting from the air supply registers in the upper level. So bad, the smoke detectors activated. All doors and fans needed to be turned on to stop the alarms...after 5 minutes!
Accordingly, it is strongly recommended that the HVAC systems within the structure [especially this air handler] be evaluated and repairs or replacement be made as necessary – and prior to taking possession of the home. This will provide the client with a complete evaluation and assessment of the systems. Photo 20-12 Based upon the serial number of the Goodman HVAC air handler in the attic, it was manufactured in May 2005. Accordingly, it is the original and will be 12 years of age this coming May.
Photo 20-13 HVAC air supply ducts are properly supported. Photo 20-14 Air supply ducts are secure to the air handler's air supply plenum. No separation or gaps were viewed. Very good.
Photo 20-15 Return air duct is secure to the air handler.
21) Repair/Maintain, Evaluate - I was unable to determine the last service date of this system(s) and it is possible it was one or more years ago. When HVAC systems are serviced, a common practice of the servicing HVAC professional is to notate the main/interior unit with either a service tag, or some marking on the unit itself as to when it was serviced. No such notices were found/viewed during my inspection.
The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when the HVAC was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system(s), and make repairs if necessary to ensure the system(s) is/are functioning optimally. It is also recommended that this be performed prior to taking possession of the home so the client(s) have a thorough and complete evaluation/assessment of the HVAC system(s) prior to purchase.
In the future, this servicing should be performed annually, or twice annually - when the HVAC transitions from COOl to HEAT [Fall] or HEAT to COOL [Spring].
22) Comment - Heat pump systems, when tested for functionality, can only be tested based upon their seasonal setting [thermostat] configured by the owner(s) of the property at the time of the inspection. The common settings consist of either "Cool" or "Heat." Accordingly, testing for functionality of "Heat" cannot be ascertained when set to "Cool," and testing for functionality of "Cool" cannot be ascertained when set/configured to "Heat" when thermostats have been programmed by the owner(s) as we do not re-configure thermostat programming in performance of testing HVAC functionality at the time of inspection. There are numerous brands/models of thermostats, and without a specific knowledge/understanding of a thermostat's operation - improper operation or damage may result. In addition, it could also damage the existing HVAC system(s).
23) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
During periods of extended absence, it is strongly recommended that the HVAC system(s) when set in the "COOL" mode never be raised above 80° on any of the thermostats within the structure. This will allow regular and necessary air circulation to remove humidity from within the structure. Low levels of humidity prevent the potential buildup of dust and dander in the ductwork - which could allow mold to potentially cultivate in the ductwork, and could cause respiratory issues.
Also, during periods of extended absence during the periods when the HVAC system(s) are set in the "HEAT" mode, the temperature should never be lowered below 60°. The furniture and materials within the structure absorb the heat from the HVAC system(s), which help prevent the HVAC system(s) from cycling on and off more than necessary to maintain a specific heat setting level - thus potentially shortening their useful life. This is called radiant heating or cooling - depending on the season. Setting the thermostat below 60° will cool down all the furniture and materials in the house, and when raising the temperature upon returning from an extended absence, it takes much longer to achieve the elevated thermostat setting because all of the materials and furniture within the house have to again absorb the heat to radiated it back.
So basically, regardless of your thermostat(s) mode setting, "HEAT" or "COOL", the range of thermostat temperature settings during any period of an extended absence should never be outside of the 60˚ to 80° range. Never though, should a thermostat be set to the OFF position - unless there is a specific requirement to do so [repair, maintenance, etc.]. If there is a need to shut off the HVAC system, the breaker in the electrical panel for the HVAC is most commonly utilized.
24) Comment - Thermal scans were performed on the majority of air supply registers to test/inspect for adequate air flow and temperature output from the HVAC heat pump system. Below are some scans of a few registers. No issues noted.
Thermal Imaging Scan Testing was also performed on walls and ceilings that are commonly known to have potential water/insulation issues. No issues were noted. Below are some scans of several areas.
25) Comment -
Photo 25-1 Front guest bedroom air supply register. Excellent airflow and temperature output. No issues. Photo 25-2 Rear guest bedroom air supply register. Excellent airflow and temperature output - which was excellent. No issues.
Photo 25-3 Living room area [one of several] air supply register. Excellent airflow and temperature output. No issues. Very good. Photo 25-4 Kitchen air supply register. Excellent airflow and temperature output was great. No issues.
Photo 25-5 Thermal imaging scan of the east exterior wall in the upper level bonus room. No issues exist. Very good. All the walls and ceilings were scanned, no issues. Photo 25-6 Master bathroom air supply register. Excellent airflow and temperature output was very good. No issues. Excellent.
Photo 25-7 Walls and ceiling in the front guest bedroom were scanned – no issues. No readily visible signs of water issues. Excellent. Photo 25-8 Ceiling area in the room with skylight. Scanned – no issues.
Photo 25-9 Walls and ceiling in the master bedroom were scanned – no issues. No readily visible signs of water issues. Excellent.
Location of main water shut-off valve: Ground level pier/piling
Water service: Public
Service pipe material: Not visible
Supply pipe material: Not visible
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Drain pipe material: Plastic
Waste pipe material: Plastic
26) Safety, Repair/Replace - The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. It is recommended that this duct be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information on dryer safety issues, see http://www.nfpa.org/public-education/by-topic/safety-in-the-home/dryers-and-washing-machines/dryer-safety-tips
If the client is unable or unwilling to replace the coil duct, it is recommended that the vent/duct be cleaned of lint on a regular basis to reduce the potential for fire. This should be done commensurate with the amount of use.
27) Repair/Replace, Maintain, Comment -
Photo 27-1 Whole house water shutoff is located against a piling at the rear of the structure by the elevator door. Is suggested that the water always be shut off during periods of absence, several days or greater. Photo 27-2 Dryer vent needs to be cleaned and maintained free of lint on a regular basis so the flap seals. An open flap could allow insects and or bees to gain access to the interior.
Photo 27-3 Laundry area is in good condition. Photo 27-4 In that the age of the washing machine water supply lines is unknown, and most likely they are original and 12 years age, they should be replaced with steel braided washing machine water supply lines upon taking possession of the home. Steel braided washing machine water supply lines are much more burst resistant than standard supply lines.
Photo 27-5 Coil-type dryer duct. Duct needs to be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent the possibility of dryer fire. Photo 27-6 Washing machine and dryer are functional.
Photo 27-7 Catch pan under the washer machine is damaged and replacement is recommended.
28) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
During periods of extended absence [two days or more], and the house will not be occupied - it is strongly recommended that the main "whole house" water shut-off valve [if readily accessible within the structure] be utilized to shut off all water to the structure. This will prevent any water leaks, or burst water lines from within the home that may occur during periods of extended absence - from causing extensive water damage within the structure. Just remember to turn the water back on upon your return.
29) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
If the washing machine is a "front-load" design appliance, it is best that the front door to the washing machine be left slightly open when not in use. This will greatly assist in the drying of the drum and interior after use - reducing the chance of possible mold development. In addition, leaving the door slightly ajar on a regular basis after use will reduce the wear/compression of the rubber seal around the opening. Leaving the door closed regularly will compress the seal and in time, the seal may commence to leak due to such compression - compromising the seal's ability to provide a tight, thorough seal when in use.
30) - The age of the washing machine water supply lines is unknown. Accordingly, it is strongly recommended that the existing lines be replaced with new, steel braided supply lines. These are much more burst resistant than standard washing machine water supply lines.
Photo 31-1 Propane fueled fireplace. Numerous attempts were made to ignite the fireplace utilizing the switches on the wall to the right of the fireplace – to no avail. Most likely a pilot light needs to be lit or the propane line has been shut off. Client needs to inquire with the seller as to the functionality of this fireplace, as well as request unit's documentation/user manual.
Please note: There are two carbon monoxide [CO] installed within the structure - one on each level. Excellent.
If there should be a garbage disposal installed in the kitchen sink, during an extended absence from the premises [several weeks or more], it is quite common for garbage disposal "chopping blades" to seize/bind within the unit. This is due to a lack of regular use - with no water flow to maintain moisture within the unit which acts as a lubricant. You'll know this has happened when all you hear is a hum or buzz from the unit when activated. Should this occur, the switch needs to be immediately turned off to prevent motor failure/burn-up. Most disposals include a tool to un-seize the blades - but this can be difficult and potentially dangerous.
Therefore, prior to a period of extended absence, it is recommended that a capful of olive/vegetable oil be poured into the garbage disposal - then turned on for a second or two. This will lubricate the blade(s) - minimizing the risk of blade(s) seizing/binding, while being an insignificant amount to cause any drain issues.
33) Safety, Repair/Replace - The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/remodeling/article/0,1797,HGTV_3659_2017492,00.html
34) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 34-1 Large open design kitchen is in good condition, except for some issues with a sink drain leak and a safety concern. Photo 34-2 Grout on the sink countertop where it meets the backsplash is defective and damaged. Repair and replacement is warranted to prevent water from getting behind and into the wood substructure, which could cause water related issues.
Photo 34-3 The drain for the dishwasher into the garbage disposal does not have a high loop. Accordingly, dirty/filthy water from the right-side sink can back flow into the dishwasher – a significant health concern. Drain needs to be raised [green arrow] to touch the under-side of the sink countertop to prevent any dirty water from back flowing into the dishwasher. Photo 34-4 A significant drain leak on the right side sink in the kitchen. Water also leaks in this area when the dishwasher drains it's water. Uncertain whether the garbage disposal is defective/cracked, or there is a loose or broken drain line. Switch does activate the disposal motor.
A licensed plumber needs to be contracted with to repair or replace as necessary. This needs to be done immediately to prevent further damage. In addition, it is quite possible and likely that the base of this cabinet under the sink is in need of replacement - if irreparable.
Photo 34-5 Dishwasher is functional. In addition, the dishwasher seal was tested for integrity. The seal is in very good condition. Photo 34-6 The kitchen range does not have anti-tip bracket. This is a safety concern and it is recommended that an anti-tip bracket be installed.
Photo 34-7 The microwave countertop light did not function. Most likely the bulb is defective and needs to be replaced. Photo 34-8 All surface burners of the electric range are functional.
Photo 34-9 The "HOT SURFACE" safety indicator light is functional. Excellent. Photo 34-10 The "COOKTOP ON" reminder indicator light is functional. Very good.
Photo 34-11 Both the bake and broil function of the range are operational. Photo 34-12 Refrigerator/freezer is functional, but the light for the refrigerator did not function. Most likely the bulb is defective and needs replacement.
Photo 34-13 Cabinet door hardware over the refrigerator is missing. Replacement is needed.
35) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Conducive conditions - One or more sink drains have an active leak. For example, at pipe fittings and/or junctions between pipe and sink. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.
36) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - The dishwasher drain line is not configured with a "high loop." A high loop is created by routing the drain line up to the bottom surface of the counter top above, and securely fastening it to that surface. It is meant to prevent water from siphoning out of the dishwasher, and to prevent water from the sink drain or food disposal from entering the dishwasher. Some dishwashers have a built-in high loop where one is not required to be configured in the drain line. The clients should try to determine if a high loop is required for this brand and model of dishwasher (review installation instructions, etc.). If one is required, or it cannot be determined if one is not required, then a qualified contractor should install a high loop as per standard building practices.
37) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Tile, stone and/or grout countertops are damaged and/or deteriorated in one or more areas. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing broken tiles and deteriorated grout, and resealing grout.
38) Repair/Replace - Hardware such as hinges, latches or pulls are loose and/or missing on one or more cabinets. Repairs should be made and/or hardware should be replaced as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
39) Minor Defect - The light in range hood [microwave] is inoperable. Recommend replacing light bulb(s) or having repairs made by a qualified contractor as necessary.
40) Comment - Just an FYI. Dishwasher doors should never be latched closed when they are not in operation. Doing so compresses the seal and prematurely wears/flattens the seal - requiring replacement. When not in use, a dishwasher door can be up - but it should not be snapped or latched closed.
41) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
an FYI. Dishwasher doors should never be latched closed when they are not in operation. Doing so compresses the seal and prematurely wears/flattens the seal - requiring replacement. When not in use, a dishwasher door can be up - but it should not be snapped or latched closed.
42) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNERS TIP:
If there is a second refrigerator located in the house or garage, or should you have a freezer, it is very important that they be filled - as much as possible - to provide "absorbed/radiant" cooling. If a second and/or third such appliance exists, doing so will enhance the longevity of the appliance's compressor. An empty or partially filled refrigerator or freezer will cause the compressor to cycle on much more frequently because there's insufficient content to radiate the cool back to the thermostat. This will greatly reduce the life cycle of such an appliance.
The best way to create an adequate absorb/radiant condition is by adding bottled water or gallon jugs of water to the spare refrigerator and/or freezer. Bottled water is great for refrigerators - as well as jugs of any reasonable size. Jugs are best for freezers because of their mass. Just a few frozen gallon jugs of water will provide sufficient absorption & radiance - thus reducing the compressor's need to cycle on more often than necessary. When you need more room for food in the refrigerator or freezer, simply remove some bottled water or jug and use it, or leave it aside if there's another need to "keep it full."
Multi-Bathroom Reminder. If you have a home that has multiple bathrooms and one - or several - are not used on a regular basis, there are maintenance items that need to be addressed.
A lack of use may allow the water within the traps of the sinks(s) and baths/showers(s) to dry to a level that could allow sewer gases to escape up the drain - not good. Traps are utilized in plumbing to prevent sewer gases from escaping back into the living quarters. A lack of water in a trap could allow dangerous gases into the structure. Therefore, it is important that every month or so water in the sink(s) and tub(s)/shower(s) infrequently used - be turned on for a few seconds to maintain a trap filled with water.
44) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 44-1 One view of the master bathroom. The master bathroom is in relatively good condition, except for a jet/whirlpool tub motor that did not function and grout issues in the shower. Photo 44-2 Another view of the master bathroom.
Photo 44-3 Grout/caulking in the master shower is failing or failed, and replacement is warranted to prevent water from getting under the tiles which could cause water related issues. Photo 44-4 More issues with failed grout/caulking.
Photo 44-5 Jet/whirlpool tub motor it did not function with numerous attempts to activate. There appeared to be no control [timer, switch, etc,] other than the button in the top rear side. Breaker on the panel was ON. Evaluation and repair/replacement by a qualified professional is warranted. Photo 44-6 Bathroom on the first floor, west side, is in relatively good condition. No significant issues were noted at the time of inspection.
Photo 44-7 Another view of the first floor bathroom on the west side of the structure. Photo 44-8 As noted to the client during the post inspection walk-through, to activate the shower head with with this type of fixture, you pull down on the end of the spout to activate shower. When shower is shut off, it should automatically snap back - which it did, to go back to tub-filling function.
Photo 44-9 Just an FYI. The receptacles in the first floor bathroom, west side, are protected by the GFCI breaker located in the master bathroom. Should there be no power to any of the receptacles in this bathroom, most likely the GFCI breaker in the master bathroom has tripped and needs to be reset. Photo 44-10 Bathroom in the upper-level, east side of structure, is in very good to mostly excellent condition – except for a few chips on the bathtub.
Photo 44-11 Just an FYI. The receptacle in the upper level bathroom on the east side of the structure is protected by the GFCI breaker in the master bathroom. Should there be no power to this receptacle, most likely be GFCI breaker in the master bathroom has tripped and needs to be reset. Photo 44-12 There are two chips on the tub in the bathroom in the upper level, east side. Discussed remedy with client.
Photo 44-13 Bathroom servicing the bedroom in the upper-level, NW corner, is in very good condition. Photo 44-14 Just an FYI. The receptacle in the bathroom that services the upper level bedroom on the NW corner of the house, is protected by the GFCI breaker in the master bathroom. In the event there is no power to this receptacle, most likely be GFCI breaker in the master bathroom has tripped and needs to be reset.
45) Repair/Replace, Evaluate, Conducive conditions - Tile and/or grout in one or more showers is damaged and/or deteriorated. For example, deteriorated or missing grout, cracked, missing or loose tiles, etc. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair tile and/or grout as necessary.
46) Comment - In many instances during an inspection - the vanity area under sinks contain various items of personal belongings [towels, toiletries, hair dryers, cleaning materials, etc.] which restrict full evaluation of these this area. Accordingly, such areas can not be reported as to condition.
47) Safety, Repair/Replace - Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit this article: NFPA urges replacing home smoke alarms after 10 years.
48) Safety, Maintain - The back-up batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
49) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 49-1 The overall condition of the master bedroom is very good. Photo 49-2 Weatherstripping on the bottom of the door in the master bedroom leading to the front deck is damaged and replacement is warranted. Failure to replace this weatherstripping could allow water and insects into the structure which could cause related issues. It is important this be replaced as soon as possible, especially to prevent rain water from entering.
Photo 49-3 Carpeting in the master bedroom is in great condition. Photo 49-4 Windowsill on the front window [left side of sill], east-most window, in the master bedroom shows evidence of water related issues. Possibly due to a window being left open or the seal on the bottom of the window sash not functioning as intended. In addition, it could also be attributable to excessive condensation. Area needs to be prepped and repainted to prevent further issues.
Photo 49-5 Windowsill on the front window [right side of sill], east-most window, in the master bedroom also shows evidence of water related issues. Possibly due to a window being left open or the seal on the bottom of the window sash not functioning as intended. In addition, it could also be attributable to excessive condensation. Area needs to be prepped and repainted to prevent further issues. Photo 49-6 Attempts were made to raise the window sashes of both windows in the master bedroom - to no avail. Recommend contracting with a qualified professional to ascertain the reason why these windows will not open.
Photo 49-7 Window guide and tilt mechanism on the windows in the master bedroom are damaged. Repair or replacement is warranted. Photo 49-8 All bedroom smoke detector batteries should be replaced upon taking possession of the house. In addition, the age of the smoke detector should be viewed – label is on back. If the smoke detector is greater than 10 years of age, it should be replaced. Most smoke detectors have a useful life on average of only 10 years. After 10 years they are prone to failure and also provide false alarms – usually in the middle of the night :-(
Photo 49-9 Bedroom on the first floor, SW corner, is in good condition. Photo 49-10 Carpeting in the bedroom on the first floor, SW corner, is in good condition.
Photo 49-11 Windows in the bedroom on the first floor, SW corner, were difficult to open. Red arrow indicates one window that could not be opened. Adjustment/repair or replacement is warranted. Photo 49-12 Bedroom on the first floor, NW corner, is in good condition.
Photo 49-13 Blinds on the slider in the bedroom on the first floor, NW corner, are damaged/defective and need replacement. Photo 49-14 Carpeting in the bedroom on the first floor, NW corner, is in very good condition - except for one area by a bedside with some staining. The white circle shows a unique Addams Family "Cousin It" dust ruffle :-)
Photo 49-15 Some minor staining on the carpeting in the bedroom on the first floor, NW corner. Most likely professional cleaning will eliminate these stains. Photo 49-16 Bedroom in the upper-level, NE corner, it is in good condition, with only some staining on the carpeting that may come out with professional cleaning.
Photo 49-17 Stain on the carpeting in the bedroom in the upper-level, NE corner. Professional cleaning may eliminate the stain. Photo 49-18 Windows in the upper level bedroom, NE corner, are difficult to open. Adjustment, cleaning, or lubrication may be warranted to get these windows to function more easily.
Photo 49-19 Bedroom in the upper-level, NW corner, is in good condition. Photo 49-20 Carpeting in the bedroom in the upper-level, NW corner, is in good condition.
Photo 49-21 On the ceiling in the first floor bedroom, SW corner, there is evidence of dry water stains on the ceiling. Most likely these stains are a result of the leaking drain in the kitchen sink area directly above. Area needs to be prepped and repainted. Photo 49-22 In the first floor bedroom, SW corner, these blinds were installed differently. Just an FYI. The right-side window's transom cannot be fully viewed.
50) Repair/Replace - One or more windows that were built to open, will not open, or open only minimally due to their being painted shut, damaged and/or deteriorated in some way. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary so windows open fully, and open and close easily.
51) Maintain - Carpeting in one or more rooms is soiled and/or stained. Recommend having carpeting professionally cleaned as necessary.
52) Monitor - Stains were found in one or more ceiling areas. However, no elevated levels of moisture were found. The stain(s) may be due to past roof and/or plumbing leaks. Recommend asking the property owner(s) about this, and monitoring the stained area(s) in the future, especially after heavy or prolonged rain. If elevated moisture is found in the future, a qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
53) Safety, Repair/Replace - Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit this article: NFPA urges replacing home smoke alarms after 10 years.
54) Safety, Maintain - The back-up batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
55) Repair/Replace, Repair/Maintain, Comment -
Photo 55-1 All interior smoke detector batteries should also be replaced. In addition, the age of the smoke detector should be viewed, label on back. If the smoke detector is greater than 10 years of age, it should be replaced. Most smoke detectors have a useful life on average of only 10 years. After 10 years, they are prone to failure and also provide false alarms – usually in the middle of the night :-( Photo 55-2 Door hardware on the entrance door is severely rusted and replacement is warranted. In addition, most of the exterior door hinges and door hardware are rusted and replacement is also warranted for them.
Photo 55-3 Carpeting on the stairway leading to the upper-level is rather dirty/stained and professional cleaning is warranted. Photo 55-4 The overall condition of the living room area is very good. No significant issues were noted at the time of inspection.
Photo 55-5 Window blind to the left of the fireplace does not have a wand to tilt the slats. Repair or replacement is warranted. Photo 55-6 Dining area is in very good condition, except for a window with seal failure and minor wearing of the flooring material.
Photo 55-7 Area under the dining room table and chairs where the flooring material is worn. Recommend consulting with a qualified flooring professional to ascertain whether or not this can be repaired or re-stained. Photo 55-8 Window in the dining room has seal failure. Replacement is warranted as the window is no longer providing protective thermal properties.
Photo 55-9 A window blind wand to tilt the slats is missing on a window blind in the dining room. Repair or replacement is warranted. Photo 55-10 Door stop is missing on the base molding in the dining room area. The doorstop prevents the door from the kitchen area leading to the front upper deck, when fully opened, from hitting the wall - and potentially damaging the wall or door. Replacement of the doorstop is needed.
Photo 55-11 Wall sconce above the stairway is falling away from the wall. Needs to be re-secured for safety purposes. Photo 55-12 Operating sash on a window in the living room in the upper-level has seal failure. Replacement is warranted as the window is no longer providing protective thermal properties and is aesthetically unappealing.
56) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Seals between double-pane glass in one or more windows appear to have failed based on condensation or stains between the panes of glass. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace glass where necessary.
The client(s) should be aware that evidence of broken seals may be more or less visible from one day to the next depending on the temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc. Windows or glass doors other than those that the inspector identified may also have failed seals and need glass replaced too.
57) Repair/Replace, Evaluate - Flooring in one or more areas is worn, damaged and/or cupping. Recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate and refinish flooring as necessary, or if possible.
58) Repair/Replace - One or more windows that were built to open, will not open, or open only minimally due to their being painted shut, damaged and/or deteriorated in some way. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary so windows open fully, and open and close easily.
59) Repair/Replace - The weatherstrip around one or more exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
60) Maintain - Carpeting in one or more rooms is soiled and/or stained. Recommend having carpeting professionally cleaned as necessary.
61) Comment - HELPFUL HOMEOWNER TIP:
Should the house contain window blinds that need to be raised by pulling down on a cord, or set of cords, it is suggested that one hand be utilized to raise the blind while the other assists by helping to lift the blind under the bottom of the blind's lower middle section. Due to the UV rays of the sun, cords that are exposed to the sun on a regular basis and weather/decay over time - thus making them susceptible to premature failure. Failure is exacerbated by simply raising the blind without assistance. This is especially so with single blinds used over multiple windows. Assisting the raising of a blind with your other hand will go a long way to having that blind last a lot longer.
62) Comment - There may be references made in this report to consult/contract with a qualified/licensed "trade-specific" professional [qualified professional, contractor, plumber, electrician, HVAC, etc.] to address items that the inspector believes needs further evaluation or repair/replacement. If so, this should be undertaken prior to the purchase of this property to provide the Client(s) with a thorough understanding and/or assessment of the stated issues/concerns raised by the inspector.
In addition, when a "trade-specific" professional is contracted, the Client(s) should have that qualified professional inspect/evaluate ALL items and components within the structure/premises specific to that professional's trade - as they have the specific experience, license, knowledge, tools, and testing equipment. For example, if an electrician/qualified professional is recommended to be contracted for issues related, to say, faulty GFCI's - 2 prong receptacles - open ground, loose receptacle(s), etc., that qualified professional should inspect and evaluate ALL electrical components within the structure/premises, such as other receptacles/switches, electrical panel, main/sub panels, etc., in addition to addressing report-specific issue(s). If the report recommends an HVAC professional for a possible HVAC condenser unit issue, all components of the HVAC system [air handler(s), ductwork, plenums, registers, thermostat(s) etc.] should be fully evaluated/inspected.
Should the Client(s) not contract with "trade-specific" professional(s) as may be stated within this report that should be done/undertaken, and also as may be referenced above, the Client(s) shall have no cause of action, for any reason, against Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC, its inspector(s), agents or employees as Client(s) have assumed all the risk for all conditions and issues stated/referenced in this report by failing to contract with a "trade-specific" professional(s) prior to purchase for further evaluation.
63) Comment - THIS SUMMARY PAGE IS NOT THE ENTIRE REPORT. THE COMPLETE REPORT MAY INCLUDE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION OF INTEREST OR CONCERN TO YOU. IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PROMPTLY READ THE COMPLETE REPORT. FOR INFORMATION REGARDING THE NEGOTIABILITY OF ANY ITEM IN THIS REPORT UNDER THE REAL ESTATE PURCHASE CONTRACT, CONTACT YOUR NORTH CAROLINA REAL ESTATE AGENT OR AN ATTORNEY.
The overall condition of this house is mostly very good. The structure appears to be well built and in good/sound condition. There are some concerns and numerous issues. All though, can be very easily remedied. Some issues that require immediate attention are:
* The HVAC air handler in the attic is extremely rusted - with evidence of substantial water issues on the unit itself, as well as the surrounding wood support surfaces. Accordingly, an HVAC professional needs to be contracted with to evaluate and make repairs/replacements as necessary - and prior to purchase.
* All HVAC ductwork needs to be cleaned and sanitized
* Windows with seal failure need replacement
* Severe leak under kitchen sink drain [right side] needs top be repaired by a qualified professional
* Exterior white aluminum trim in numerous areas needs replacement
* Air filters need replacement
* Jet/whirlpool tub in master bath needs evaluation - with repairs or replacement made as necessary by a qualified professional
* Master shower needs to have failed grout removed, then prepped and new grout applied/sealed
* Numerous windows need evaluation as to why they do not open - with repairs made as needed
* Windowsills with water damage on 1st floor SE corner bedroom need to be repaired, prepped and repainted
* Defective blinds need replacement [numerous] - both window and slider
* Carpeting on stairway and numerous bedrooms needs professional cleaning
* Weatherstripping on doors with issues [see report specifics] need replacement
* Ground level storage room door [under stairs] needs to be repaired/stripped, prepped and repainted to eliminate further rusting
* Exterior electrical service panel needs replacement
* Loose main water supply line [exterior/rear] needs to be completely insulated and re-secured to pier/post
* Living room storm door to front deck [SE corner] needs evaluation as to why it is screwed closed - and repairs/replacement made as needed
* Flooring under dining room table needs to be re-surfaced/stained & sealed if possible [worn]
* Cabinet hardware is needed on doors over refrigerator
* Recommend anti-tip bracket be installed on kitchen range
* Insulation needs to added to the attic-side of the pull-down stairs
* Microwave oven-top light bulb needs replacement
* Prepping and re-grouting of kitchen sink countertop where it meets backsplash is warranted
* Slider screen doors need adjustment/cleaning/lubrication to function as intended. If irreparable, they need to be replaced
* HVAC return air grill on 1st floor needs to be cleared of al rust and repainted
* Loose stairwell light fixture needs to be re-secured
Please refer to inspection report for complete findings and other information. Any and all references to issues related to HVAC, plumbing, electrical, roofing, contractor, etc. - should be addressed and undertaken by a qualified, licensed professional in that specific trade.
Click on the link below for an in-depth home maintenance guide, month by month, provided by USAA insurance company. This is a great guide to assist in keeping your home up-to-date.
IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE SELLER(S), OR THE SELLER'S AGENT TO ENSURE THE PREMISES ARE MADE "READY" FOR INSPECTION. THIS COULD INCLUDE, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ENSURING ALL UTILITIES ARE ON, HW HEATER IS ON & ACCESSIBLE, WATER IS TURNED ON, WELL PUMP [if applicable] CAN BE EASILY ACCESSED, ALL FIXTURE SHUT-OFFS ARE ON, ALL STORAGE CLOSETS/SHEDS ARE UNLOCKED, ACCESS TO ATTIC HATCH IS CLEARED [all seller's personal items are removed - including clothing, furniture, stored items, etc.], ACCESS TO CRAWLSPACE [if applicable] IS READILY ACCESSIBLE [access hatch/door/panel is not blocked or locked], ACCESS TO DECKS/PORCHES FROM INTERIOR ROOMS IS NOT RESTRICTED [hurricane shutters installed/utilized, separate lock w/o key made available, furniture, etc.], AND IF OCCUPIED - THAT PETS/ANIMALS ARE SECURED FOR SAFE INGRESS/EGRESS. IF INSPECTOR IS UNABLE TO ACCESS ITEMS/AREAS, AND IS REQUESTED TO RE-INSPECT AT A LATER DATE, AN ADDITIONAL INSPECTION FEE IS APPLICABLE. CONTACT YOUR INSPECTOR FOR APPLICABLE FEE. IN ADDITION - IF SELLER(S), CLIENT(S), REALTOR(S), OR OTHER PERSONS ARE PRESENT AT THE PREMISES DURING INSPECTION - INSPECTOR(S) COULD POSSIBLY BE DISTRACTED OR THE INSPECTOR(S) STANDARD INSPECTION ROUTINE COULD BE DISRUPTED. THIS COULD INADVERTENTLY CAUSE AN INSPECTION OVERSIGHT. IN ANY SUCH OCCURRENCE, THE INSPECTOR(S) WILL NOT BE DEEMED NEGLIGENT OR BE HELD RESPONSIBLE.
PRE-CLOSING WALK-THROUGH INSPECTION ---- Please understand that on the day of your closing you will have one last opportunity to tour the home and look carefully at the conditions before you sign the dotted line. Before you truly own this home, we recommend that you read through your home inspection report fully, this will allow you to be reminded of the conversations, meetings and recommendations we made to you at that time. If you requested (from the owners) that problems or damages be repaired before the closing, we recommend that you carefully evaluate those items. Make sure they have been adequately repaired, or completely diagnosed. If not repaired, make sure you get estimates by professionals in that particular field.
Remember that we will not be at the pre-closing walk-through (unless retained) and as such, you must remember to check for conditions or indicators of problems uncovered - not only by your home inspection, but also conditions which may have occurred after it. THIS IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY and it may have severe financial implications if you do not check adequately and completely.
It is CRITICAL that you perform a Pre-Closing Walk-Through Inspection. If you choose not to, you may be opening yourself up to major problems, severe disappointment, and undesired expense. Because of the importance of the Pre-Closing Walk-Through, Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC will not entertain any claims or complaints from any client(s) who do not perform a comprehensive walk-through inspection prior to taking possession of the house, checking all significant components - and the client(s) agrees to hold Carolina Coast Home Inspections Group, LLC or its inspector(s), owner, agents, or employees harmless from any actions, legal or otherwise, taken by client(s) post inspection.
Please use your home inspection report to assure completeness of your inspection. Remember also that the walk-through, as important as it is, is a protective drill, and in itself cannot protect you totally from hidden or inaccessible areas, or show you wear of components that are not detectable. In addition, there may be personal belongings, from clothing and furniture, to mechanical equipment, that may have been replaced but is still in the basement, garage or attic. If you did not ask for these items as part of the home purchase, make sure they are gone as it could cost a lot of time and money to remove them when you assume possession of your new home.
Also don’t be fooled into complacency. Homes should be inspected regularly, especially during periods of harsh weather. Heavy rain, large quantities of snow, ice and or sleet can show signs of water entry and component failure. Heating and cooling inadequacies may not be detectable until several days of heat or cold go by. Check the home after severe wind conditions or storms. Check for water entry of any type. Basements and attics can reflect extremes in temperature, ventilation or condensation problems. Roofing can leak & become damaged. Creation of ice dams can cause backups and damage
Here is a list of things you should test or operate which we may not have been able to operate at the time of the inspection. This list is a suggestion list, based on the average home and may not cover all specific areas of your home.
1. Operate all safety controls on your heating systems, water heaters, and water shut off valves.
2. Low voltage wired items - intercoms, doorbells, security, telephone, computer systems, TV antennas, dishes and cable connections. Infra-red controlled stereo systems and specialized electronics. These typically are not tested by us.
3. Clean & test humidifiers, de-humidifiers, window & wall air conditioners. (weather permitting).
4. Check fireplace for cleanliness, and good operation.
5. Exterior areas that may have been sight limited due to the elements, or stored items, should be checked.
6. Check areas previously inaccessible (not visible at the time of inspection). Especially those blocked by furniture, hidden by artwork, or covered by floor coverings.
NEVER TAMPER WITH THINGS YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND, ESPECIALLY ELECTRICAL AND MECHANICAL THINGS. IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS ABOUT YOUR ABILITY TO CHECK THINGS, HIRE A PROFESSIONAL!
► ELECTRICAL: Do not overload circuits. This could create a hazard that can hurt you, or burn down your home.
► FIREPLACES: Most fireplaces are built for cosmetic fires - rarely designed for long burning periods, and never huge hot fires. Before you make a fire make sure flues are clean, open, and not clogged with any debris. Maintain chimneys and flues annually or prior to any seasonal use.
► HEATING AND COOLING: This can be critical in the southeast for comfort. Most systems need checking and annual maintenance for efficient service. Most heating systems have a designed life expectancy of 15 to 50 years. Heat pumps typically last 8-15 years. Air conditioners can last 15 years based on usage.
► EXTERIOR: Check the exterior as prevalent weather conditions (snow) may have prevented a thorough inspection of exterior at the time of initial inspection.
► INTERIOR: Remember when the inspection was performed, throw rugs/carpets, furniture, possessions and stored items may have been in the way of a careful visual check. Things may have become damaged during the move. Check areas carefully to assure good conditions before you sign the dotted line. Protect yourself with a careful walk-through inspection.
► INSECTS: Termites and carpenter ants love wet wood & damp areas, wood boring bees prefer dry wood. There are no termites in the cold regions of North Carolina, mostly in the warmer areas. Search for evidence of wood destroying insects entering your home annually.
► GARAGES: At the time of the initial inspection, the garage may have been crowded with seller personal belongings, covering areas that we may have been unable to inspect.
► FENCING: Again, prevalent weather conditions (snow) may have prevented a thorough inspection of the fencing at the time of initial inspection. While not typically critical to the home, some fencing can be important to the safety of your family and pets, or the neighbors.
► KITCHENS: Test all appliances and check for damages. Make sure counters are secure. Make sure stove venting brings smoke, odors, and grease outside. Use after our initial inspection may have changed their overall effectiveness.
► SECURITY SYSTEMS: Security systems can be simple and easy to use, or very complicated and tricky to operate. These items are NOT tested by inspection companies. Have the servicing company or seller go over operations with you and required maintenance. Get the owners manual and review it. Write down the shut down codes and reset procedures. False alarms can be dangerous and/or costly. Learn your system.
► SPECIAL NOTE FOR CONDOS: Speak to someone on the condo board to gain additional info about the Association. Find out about any plans they have for repairs and maintenance. You may wish to ask for copies of the minutes of recent condo meetings.
► WETLANDS: If there are wetlands or a waterway near the property, you may wish to contact your local EPA office, to check on any restrictions or requirements.
► ELECTRONIC/OTHER SYSTEMS: In the event that there are electronic systems, water conditioner system(s), solar assist systems, hot tub/whirlpool units, sub-panel electric feeds, or other non-standard systems installed within the home, it is critical that you have the seller provide you with a complete demonstration of their use, providing operating manuals and instructions as appropriate. Inspection companies are not responsible, in any way or manner, for these non-standard systems.
Remember if you do not focus on the walk-through, surprises that could turn up later will be at your expense. If you are not comfortable doing the walk-through alone, hire us to accompany you. These inspections generally take less time and cost less than a full home inspection. Visit our web site for fees associated with a Pre Closing Walk Through inspection.
............................................
...