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1) The patios has significant cracks and/or deterioration in one or more areas.
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2) Gutters in one or more areas are significantly rusted or corroded. Leaks may result. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace gutters where necessary.
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3) Minor cracks were found in one or more sections of brick veneer. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as repointing mortar to prevent water intrusion and further deterioration in the future.
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4) Moderate cracks and/or deterioration found in one or more sections of brick veneer. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as repointing mortar, replacing bricks and/or sections of veneer.
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5) One or more downspouts have no extensions, or have extensions that are ineffective. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.
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11) The ceiling insulation's R rating is significantly less than what's recommended for this area. Recommend having a qualified contractor install additional insulation as per standard building practices for better energy efficiency.
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12) One or more exhaust fans have no duct and terminate in the attic. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in the attic from the exhaust air. A qualified contractor should install ducts and vent caps as necessary and as per standard building practices so exhaust air is vented outside. Better building practices call for R8 rated insulation on these ducts.
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13) Pull-down stairs are installed for the attic access. No insulation is installed above the stairs and no weatherstripping is installed around the hatch perimeter. To reduce air leakage, recommend installing weatherstripping and an insulated hatch cover. An example of one can be seen at http://www.batticdoor.com/.
Interior air leaking into the attic results in heating and cooling losses, increased energy costs, and a possible increase in moisture levels in the attic due condensation forming on the underside of the roof sheathing during cold weather.
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14) Stains were visible on the roof structure in one or more areas. These areas were dry at the time of the inspection. The stains may be caused by a past leak. Recommend asking the property owner(s) about past leaks. The client(s) should monitor these areas in the future, especially after heavy rains, to determine if active leaks exist. If leaks are found, a qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
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18) No drain line is installed for the temperature-pressure relief valve. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of scalding if someone is standing next to the water heater when the valve opens. A qualified plumber should install a drain line as per standard building practices. For example, extending to 6 inches from the floor, or routed so as to drain outside.
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19) The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years. This water heater appears to be approaching this age and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
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20) No drip leg is visible on the water heater gas supply line. Drip legs are intended to trap oil, scale, water condensation and/or debris from the gas supply lines before they reach and damage the water heater components. A qualified contractor should be consulted as to the need for this, in this particular installation.
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21) The single-walled vent from the water heater is too close to the combustible PVC vent from the furnace. This is a potential fire hazard.
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22) What appears to be asbestos is visible on some ductwork. However, it appears to be intact and not significantly deteriorated. The client may wish to have this material tested at a qualified lab. For information on asbestos hazards in the home, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/453.html
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23) Insulation is missing on one or more heating/cooling ducts in unconditioned spaces. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install insulation as necessary and as per standard building practices.
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24) No drip leg is visible on the furnace or boiler gas supply line. Drip legs are intended to trap oil, scale, water condensation and/or debris from the gas supply lines before they reach and damage the furnace or boiler components. A qualified contractor should evaluate the need for a drip leg in this particular configuration.
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25) The outdoor air temperature was below 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the inspection. Because of this, the inspector was unable to operate and fully evaluate the cooling system.
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26) The compressor in the A/C system appears to have aged beyond its expected useful life. Suggest expecting to need replacement at any time.
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27) The placement of the return air inlet in this system is far from optimal. There is one central return vent in the ceiling of the hallway. Circulation of air in any rooms where the doors are closed will be extremely limited. Best that can be done in this situation is to ensure a 1" gap at the bottom of all interior room doors.
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28) Water supply pipes in homes built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client(s) should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client(s) should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions such as these may be advised:
Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
Install appropriate filters at points of use.
Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
Use bottled or distilled water.
Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary.
For more information visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5056.html and http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html
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29) No expansion tank is installed on this structure's water supply system. Expansion tanks are recommended when a property is on a public water supply system and the property's water system is "closed" via a pressure reducing valve (PRV), check valve, or backflow preventer. No room for expansion of water exists in this type of system. Thermal expansion occurs when water is heated during non-use periods. In a closed system with no provision for expansion, its effects may include:
Backflow into the water main
Damage to water heater connections, gas water heater flue tubes and pumps serving washers and dishwashers
Leaking faucets
"Weeping" of water through the water heater temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve
Noisy water hammer in the pipes.
Expansion tanks can eliminate these problems by giving water a place to go when thermal expansion occurs. When a water heating cycle ends, or when any fixture is opened within the system, the impact of thermal expansion is reduced, and water drains out of the expansion tank back into the system. Recommend having a qualified plumber install an expansion tank as per standard building practices.
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30) Small, active leak here, just above main water shut-off valve.
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31) Evidence of prior water intrusion was found in one or more sections of the crawl space. For example, sediment stains on the vapor barrier or foundation, and/or efflorescence on the foundation. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. The client(s) should review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner(s) about past accumulation of water in the crawl space. The crawl space should be monitored in the future for accumulated water, especially after heavy and/or prolonged periods of rain. If water is found to accumulate, a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:
Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
Improving perimeter grading
Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, gravity drains and/or sump pump(s) in the crawl space.
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32) I recommend insulating the crawlspace walls and closing the vents. More moisture comes in through open crawlspace vents than ever leaves. Further, insulation should be installed around the rim joist and joist pockets.
If this does not improve the heating performace of the furnace, then I recommend either insulating the existing ducts or replacing the ducts with flexible, insulated ducts.
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33) One or more open ground, three-pronged electric receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing receptacles or correcting wiring circuits.
Grounding type receptacles began being required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and the presence of 2-pronged receptacles in some areas of this structure, an acceptable repair may be to simply replace the ungrounded 3-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles. However the following appliances require grounding type receptacles:
Computer hardware
Refrigerators
Freezers
Air conditioners
Clothes washers
Clothes dryers
Dishwashers
Kitchen food waste disposers
Information technology equipment
Sump pumps
Electrical aquarium equipment
Hand-held motor-operated tools
Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
Light industrial motor-operated tools
Hedge clippers
Lawn mowers
This list is not exhaustive. Grounded circuits and receptacles should be installed in locations where such appliances will be used.
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34) One or more electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
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35) The range hood fan is blocked with aluminum foil.
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36) One or more sink drains have an active leak. For example, at pipe fittings and/or junctions between pipe and sink. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.
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37) The refrigerator is not turned on. The inspector was unable to evaluate this component. Further, the refrigerator is in need of cleaning.
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38) One or more open ground, three-pronged electric receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing receptacles or correcting wiring circuits.
Grounding type receptacles began being required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and the presence of 2-pronged receptacles in some areas of this structure, an acceptable repair may be to simply replace the ungrounded 3-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles. However the following appliances require grounding type receptacles:
Computer hardware
Refrigerators
Freezers
Air conditioners
Clothes washers
Clothes dryers
Dishwashers
Kitchen food waste disposers
Information technology equipment
Sump pumps
Electrical aquarium equipment
Hand-held motor-operated tools
Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
Light industrial motor-operated tools
Hedge clippers
Lawn mowers
This list is not exhaustive. Grounded circuits and receptacles should be installed in locations where such appliances will be used.
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39) One or more electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
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40) One or more sinks are clogged or drain slowly. Drain(s) should be cleared as necessary, and by a qualified plumber if necessary.
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41) The toilet in the master bedroom dumps large amounts of water on the floor when it is flushed. Apparently this or some other leaky situation has existed for some time, judging from the condition of the subfloor and the apparent repair that has been made. Suggest having this floor evaluated by a qualified contractor.
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42) Two-pronged electric receptacles rather than three-pronged, grounded receptacles are installed in one or more interior rooms. They are considered to be unsafe by today's standards and limit the ability to use appliances that require a ground in these rooms. Examples of appliances that require grounded receptacles include:
Computer hardware
Refrigerators
Freezers
Air conditioners
Clothes washers
Clothes dryers
Dishwashers
Kitchen food waste disposers
Information technology equipment
Sump pumps
Electrical aquarium equipment
Hand-held motor-operated tools
Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
Light industrial motor-operated tools
Hedge clippers
Lawn mowers
This list is not exhaustive. A qualified electrian should evaluate and install grounded receptacles as per the client(s)' needs and standard building practices.
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43) The sash spring mechanism(s) in one or more windows are broken or loose. A qualified contractor or service technician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so the window(s) operate as intended (open easily, stay open without support, close easily, etc.).
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44) Glass in one or more windows is damaged. A qualified contractor should replace glass where necessary.
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45) The kitchen door will not latch when closed. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For example, aligning strike plates with latch bolts and/or replacing locksets.
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46) Some rooms have paint over wallpaper. As these walls are drywall/plaster board, scraping the wallpaper off will be a tedious job. Many repairs to the drywall will be required after scraping.
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47) Window glazing is significantly deteriorated in many areas. This results in loose panes, and poor thermal performance.
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