Banner Home Inspections, LLCWebsite: http://www.reporthost.com/banner
Phone: (360) 691-1657 · (425) 327-1888
10xxx xxxth Ave NE
Snohomish, WA 98xxx
Inspector: Burt S
Washington State Home Inspector License # 652
This report published on Wednesday, August 11, 2010 8:44:32 AM PDT
Sample Property Inspection Report|
||Mr & Mrs John Doe
||123 Somewhere Dr
Lake Stevens,WA 98___
View summary page
This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
Thank you for choosing Banner Home Inspections, LLC for your home inspection. We've made every effort to provide you with a thorough, high quality inspection that meets the Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics set forth by the State of Washington. A home inspection is a tool intended to provide you with valuable information in your consideration of this property. If you have any questions or need clarification on any items in this report, please do not hesitate to call me at the telephone number provided on this report. I am committed to giving you an informative and detailed home inspection, because your business and referrals are very important to me.
All homes have defects and home inspection reports by nature focus on the negative issues of the home. However, I want to stress that the good things about this property may vastly outweigh the negative items found in this report. Though every attempt will be made to identify potential problems, not all defects can or will be found. A home inspection is a visual and noninvasive general overview of the home's condition on the day of the inspection. Therefore, in the home inspection report, recommendations for further evaluation by a specialty contractor will be made as necessary. This report is intended to identify safety issues and major defects that may affect the structural integrity of this building. Minor deficiencies may be mentioned, such as damaged or missing molding, trim, doors, cabinets, interior paint, carpet, etc., but are not the major focus of this report.
In order to minimize the chances of unexpected surprises after taking ownership, before closing you are encouraged to obtain competitive estimates for major repairs, upgrades, or evaluations of any component or system that is costly to repair or replace. Just as a note, many problems may be alleviated inexpensively if done immediately, but could be very expensive if allowed to progress.
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
|Safety||Poses a risk of injury or death |
|Repair/Replace||Recommend repairing or replacing |
|Repair/Maintain||Recommend repair and/or maintenance |
|Minor Defect||Correction likely involves only a minor expense |
|Maintain||Recommend ongoing maintenance |
|Evaluate||Recommend evaluation by a specialist |
|Monitor||Recommend monitoring in the future |
|Comment||For your information |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms. Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Inspector's name: Burt S
Type of building: Single family
Age of building: 2002
Time started: 3:00 PM
Time finished: 6:30 PM
Payment method: Check
Present during inspection: Clients, Realtor
Report number: 108
Occupied: No, but furnishings and stored items are present
Weather conditions: Rain
Front of structure faces: West
Main entrance faces: West
Foundation type: Crawlspace
Ground condition: Wet
These are pictures of various turn off valves, etc.
Foundation material: Poured in place concrete
The water meter and shut-off valve at the street on the northwest corner of the lot.
The main water shut-off valve in the house (yellow arrow) and the pressure reducer valve (red arrow).
The gas shut-off valves for the furnace and the hot water heater.
The water shut-off valve for the hot water heater.
Water shut-offs under the kitchen sink for water to the sink (yellow), dishwasher (green), and dishwasher drain (blue).
The main shut-off for the gas, this is on the south side of the garage.
Footing material: Poured in place concrete
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame
Wall covering: Cement-based clapboard, wood shingles
Driveway material: Poured in place concrete
Sidewalk material: Poured in place concrete
Non-metallic sheathed wiring at the back of the garage is routed so it is subject to damage, such as on wall or ceiling surfaces. The wire's insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, rewire using conduit, or re-routing through wall cavities.
This wire needs to be in a conduit.
This is the same wire that needs to be in a conduit. This is at the back side of the garage.
A trip hazard exist at the stairs to the back patio due to non-uniform riser heights. Standard building practices call for riser heights not to vary more than 3/8 inch on a flight of stairs. A qualified contractor should repair or replace stairs so all riser heights are within 3/8 inch of each other.
Another step is needed at this entry to the house from the patio. An alternative is to replace this stone with new stairs.
The downspout drain on at the northwest corner of the front porch appears to be clogged. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in the crawl space. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. The drain should be unclogged or repairs should be made as necessary by a qualified contractor.
This drain line appears to be clogged, you can see the area of overflow.
Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, wires, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
This is the block for the hose bibb at the front of the garage that needs caulking.
Both outside faucets leak from the valve stem when turned on. I recommend tightening the valve stem nut, and if necessary, a qualified plumber should evaluate and repair.
You can see the leaking water at this hose bibb at the rear of the house. The front hose bibb also leaks.
Most of the crawl space vents are blocked or partially blocked by insulation. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. The insulation baffles should be repositioned so the insulation is not obstructing the vents.
You can barely see the vent in this picture due to the insulation covering it. The arrow is pointing at it.
One or more exhaust duct end caps are damaged and/or deteriorated. Their purpose is to prevent unconditioned air from entering the house, and keeping out birds, rodents and bugs. Blocked ducts can cause fan motors and/or clothes dryers to overheat and may pose a fire hazard. New vent caps should be installed where necessary.
This vent cap needs repair or replacing. I believe this is on the east side of the home.
There is no head flashing on some of the windows and/or doors. Without head flashing the only protection from moisture intrusion above the windows and/or doors is the caulking. This can be an on going maintenance issue. I recommend monitoring and maintaining as necessary or having a qualified contractor install head flashing above the windows and/or doors that are exposed to excessive moisture.
Most of the rafter and/or barge board ends are not covered. This makes these rafter ends susceptible to rot. Roofing shingles should be installed over the rafter ends to prevent rot, by a qualified contractor if necessary.
The cement fiber siding has no caulking at any of the butt joints. Caulking is optional at the butt joints as long as a metal shingle is placed under the joint and over the siding below. The second method is to use pieces of house wrap cut to a size necessary to protect the joint, installed under the joint, and over the lower piece of siding. The builder appears to have used neither of these methods. I recommend caulking these joints before repainting the house, however until then monitor for any possible moisture intrusion and caulk as necessary. For more information on cement fiber siding, visit:
Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior on the north and west sides of the home. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.
Trees and shrubs should be trimmed back 1 foot from the house.
On the north side of the home, shrubs are to close to the house and the vent is missing a trim piece at the bottom.
Caulk is missing or deteriorated in some areas and should be replaced and/or applied where necessary. For more information on caulking, visit:
The Ins and Outs of Caulking.
Roof type: Cross gable
This is behind the garage.
Estimated age of roof: 2002
Roof inspection method: Traversed, Viewed from eaves on ladder
Roof covering: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Roof ventilation: Adequate
Roofing nails in one or more areas have loosened or backed out. Leaks may occur as a result. If necessary, a qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and make repairs, such as re-seating nails and applying sealant.
Both of these pictures are on the lower roof in the front of the house.
Some moss is growing on the roof. As a result, shingles may lift or be damaged. Leaks may result and the roof surface may fail prematurely. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Efforts should be taken to kill the moss during its growing season (wet months). Typically zinc-based chemicals are used for this, and must be applied periodically. For information on various moss treatment products and their pros and cons, visit:
It is hard to see, but moss is growing on the roof. This is a section of the upper roof on the front of the house.
Because of the roof height, slope, and rain, the inspector was unable to traverse the upper roof but, was able to view this section of roof from the eaves.
The auto-reverse mechanism on both the vehicle door openers requires too much force to activate. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
The exterior entrance door to the back yard is rubbing on the door jamb. The door jamb needs more nailing in this area to prevent damage.
Inspection method: Viewed from hatch
Roof structure type: Trusses
Ceiling structure: Trusses
Insulation material: Cellulose loose fill
Insulation depth: 9 inches
Insulation estimated R value: R-31.5
Primary service overload protection type: Square D circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 200
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Smoke detectors present: Yes
Primary service type: Underground
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at top of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
System ground: Ground rods in soil
Main disconnect rating (amps): 200
Branch circuit wiring type: Non-metallic sheathed copper wire
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
Water pressure (psi): 30 PSI
Location of main water shut-off valve: At the back of the closet near the stairs
Location of main water meter: Northwest corner of the lot at the street
Location of main fuel shut-off: On the exterior of the south side of the garage
Water service: Public
Service pipe material: Polyethelene
Supply pipe material: CPVC
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Drain pipe material: Plastic
Waste pipe material: Plastic
Water pressure is below 40 psi, but the flow appeared to be adequate. 40-80 psi is considered to be the normal range for water pressure in a home. The inspector performed a "functional flow test" during the inspection, where multiple fixtures were run simultaneously, and found the water flow to be adequate flow. For example, the shower flow did not decrease significantly when the toilet was flushed.
If the client finds the flow to be inadequate, I recommend increasing the pressure at the pressure reducer valve by a qualified plumber, if necessary. For information, visit:
This shows that the water pressure it approximately 30 PSI. Normal water pressure is in a range of 40-80 PSI.
The washing machine is installed over a finished living space and has no catch pan or drain installed (a drain may be installed at the rear of the washing machine already). Catch pans are not commonly installed, but they are recommended to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if or when the washing machine leaks, overflows, or is drained. I recommend installing both a catch pan and drain, by a qualified contractor if necessary.
This is a possible drain for a overflow tray for the washing machine. This needs to be confirmed.
The clothes dryer exhaust duct is disconnected at the dryer. Clothes dryers produce large amounts of moisture which should not enter structure interiors. Damage to building components may result. Evaluate and make permanent repairs as necessary. For more information, visit:
Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.
Estimated age: 2002
Primary heating system energy source: Natural gas
Primary heat system type: Forced air, down draft
Distribution system: Flexible ducts
Filter location: In return air duct above furnace
Last service date: 3/12/10
A significant amount of water is present in the flex duct below the dishwasher on the east side of the kitchen, in fact the duct appears to be blocked by this water. I recommend having a qualified heating contractor replace this duct and evaluate the other ducts for water damage.
This duct is full of water or a liquid of some sort.
Most of flex ducts are sagging excessively. Most manufacturers, and the Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Association (SMACNA) recommend that this type of duct sag no more than 1/2" per foot between supports. A qualified heating contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.
This is a picture of some of the ducts that need more support.
These are more ducts that need support.
Insulation on one or more heating/cooling ducts in unconditioned spaces is damaged and/or missing. A qualified heating contractor should evaluate and replace insulation and/or ducts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
Both of these pictures are of the same duct work, just a different angle.
Both pictures are of the duct work where it attaches to the furnace.
For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas, servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit:
The furnace filter should be checked monthly in the future and replaced as necessary.
Woodstove type: Metal
Chimney type: Metal
The gas supply for the gas fireplace was turned off. As per the Standards of Practice for both the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) and the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) the inspector does not operate gas shut off valves or light pilot lights during inspections. This appliances were not fully evaluated.
Estimated age: 2002
Shut-off for the gas to the fireplace. It is off at this time.
Energy source: Natural gas
Capacity (in gallons): 50
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 130 degrees
The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
Inspection method: Traversed
This is the temperature control valve on the hot water heater.
Insulation material underneath floor above: Fiberglass roll or batt
Pier or support post material: Wood
Beam material: Solid wood
Floor structure above: Solid wood joists
Vapor barrier present: Yes
A small section of insulation ont the water pipe is missing or damaged at the northwest corner of the crawl space. I recommend repairing or installing insulation on the water pipe where necessary for better energy efficiency and to prevent water pipes from freezing.
This is pretty dark, but you can see that some insulation is missing at the water line in the northwest corner of the crawl space.
A small amount of water was seeping into the crawl space on the east side of the home under the kitchen at the joint between the footing and foundation wall. I recommend digging down on the exterior of foundation to the footing and sealing this area to prevent water intrusion, by a qualified contractor if necessary.
Water seeping into crawl space. This is under the kitchen on the east side of the home.
Evidence of prior water intrusion was found in one or more sections of the crawl space. For example, sediment stains on the vapor barrier or foundation, and/or efflorescence on the foundation. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. The clients should review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owners about past accumulation of water in the crawl space. The crawl space should be monitored in the future for accumulated water, especially after heavy and/or prolonged periods of rain. If water is found to accumulate, a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:
Repairing, installing or improving rain run-off systems (gutters, downspouts and extensions or drain lines)
Improving perimeter grading
Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, gravity drains and/or sump pumps in the crawl space.
This is a picture of a drain line installed in the crawl space below the living room. The dark area at the end of the pipe is a small ditch directing water to the drain line.
This shows the door bell transformer below the crawl space access hatch.
Water stains and/or minor water damage were found in the shelving or cabinet components below the sink. The clients should evaluate and monitor this in the future.
The bathtub stopper mechanism in the main bathroom upstairs is in need of repair. The bolt stem on the stopper seems to be too small for the threaded fitting in the drain or the the threaded fitting in the drain is stripped. I recommend further evaluation and repair by a qualified plumbing contractor.
This is the stopper for the bath tub in the main bathroom upstairs.
Some of the tile countertops in the upstairs bathrooms need to be re-grouted at the countertop to wall intersection. I recommend re-grouting and sealing the grout in these areas, by a qualified contractor if necessary.
One or more light fixtures in the bathrooms have burned out or inoperable bulbs . Bulbs may simply need to be installed, or repairs or replacement may be necessary.
The heat lamb/fan fixture in the master bathroom has a missing bulb and could not be fully evaluated. Bulbs may simply need to be installed, or repairs or replacement may be necessary.
At least two door stops are damaged or missing on the upper floor and should be replaced in order to prevent damage to walls.
A magnetic catch for the blinds is broken in one of the bedrooms upstairs and should be replaced so the blind will stay closed.
Batteries in all the smoke alarms should be replaced after taking occupancy, and annually in the future. "Chirping" noises emitted from smoke alarms typically indicate that batteries need replacing. For more information, visit:
This report expresses the personal opinions of the inspector, based upon his experience and the visual impressions of the condition of the property that existed at the time of the inspection. The inspection and report is not technically exhaustive, which means, no disassemble of equipment, opening of walls, excavation, moving of furniture, appliances, or stored items, access to unsafe or dangerous areas, or any actions that can cause damage to the property is performed. All components and conditions which by nature of their location are concealed, camouflaged, or difficult to inspect are excluded from the report. Although a thorough inspection of the property is made, we wish to caution you that not every possible defect can be discovered and that conditions may change and equipment may become defective before the client moves in. We assume no liability or responsibility for the cost of repairing or replacing any unreported defects or deficiencies, or bodily injury of any nature.
The inspection report should not be construed as a compliance inspection of any governmental or non governmental codes or regulations. Several items that are not within the scope of the home inspection include, but are not limited to: formaldehyde, lead paint, asbestos, toxic or flammable materials, other environmental hazards, playground equipment, efficiency measurements of insulation, efficiency measurements of heating and cooling equipment, unexposed or underground drainage or plumbing systems, any systems that are shut down or otherwise secured, water wells, zoning ordinances, property line accuracy, intercoms, security systems, heat sensors, cosmetic, or building code conformity. Any general comments about these items is informational only and does not represent an inspection.
This report is not intended to be a warranty or guarantee of the present or future adequacy of performance of the structure, its systems, or their components. This report is intended only as a general guide to help the client make his or her own evaluation of the overall condition of the home, and is not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase.