Allmannent

This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited. This summary contains the inspection concerns about the most critically important areas in the house as pertains to safety, health, and structural integrity. These are the areas that will require the most expedient and urgent attention by licensed and bonded professionals. I highly recommend that these concerns be addressed and that they are not taken lightly. In addition, I also urge you to read the report in it's entirety, as many of the concerns or problems encountered may be amended or upgraded by the homeowner or a qualified handyman, and could fall under the heading of monitoring and maintenance. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure has never been held truer than when optimizing prevention through maintenance to keep your house as sound as possible. The forces of nature and their effects on a house never cease and, therefore, a diligent and committed effort on your part is required to protect your investment. Having an ongoing relationship of care and maintenance with your house and home is the best way to assure many years of enjoyment and satisfaction.

Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:

	Safety	Poses a risk of injury or death
	Major Defect	Correction likely involves a significant expense
	Repair/Replace	Recommend repairing or replacing
	Repair/Maintain	Recommend repair and/or maintenance
	Minor Defect	Correction likely involves only a minor expense
	Maintain	Recommend ongoing maintenance
	Evaluate	Recommend evaluation by a specialist
	Monitor	Recommend monitoring in the future
	Comment	For your information

Exterior
1) - Soil is in contact with or less than six inches from siding and/or trim. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Soil should be graded and/or removed as necessary so there are at least six inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil below. There are several areas by the back deck that have soil stacked against the deck stairs. The deck itself is in need of repair and /or replacement, with areas of decay. The painted surface of the deck is quite slippery when wet and can pose a serious tripping hazard. The main beam that spans under the deck and under the add-on or Arizona room is in contact with the soil, which is a conducive condition. As an explanation of conducive conditions, these are conditions that exist that will directly attack and cause rot and/or decay in the structural components, such as earth to wood contact, excess moisture levels, or a combination of soil contact, moisture, and certain temperature ranges that will attract and be favorable to a host of wood destroying organisms and insects, and certain fungal or bacterial organisms. As mentioned above, the lack of a vapor barrier under this structure is of critical concern. The standards for adequate distance between the soil and the wooden sub-structure are twelve inches to beams and eighteen inches to joists. I recommend repair or replacement of the deck by a qualified professional carpentry contractor,and highly recommend the addition of a vapor barrier under the Arizona room.
2) - Significant trip hazards were found in the driveway due to cracks, settlement and/or heaving. At the junction of the driveway to the front door sidewalk is an area of heaved pavement that is considered a safety hazard. I recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate and repair or replace driveway sections as necessary to eliminate trip hazards.
3) - The exterior electric receptacles have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, not an uncommon defect in houses of this age. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock because of the close proximity of water, soil contact, and electrical tools and appliances. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repairs should be made so that all outdoor receptacles within six feet six inches of ground level have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed. This is an important safety upgrade.
4) - Extension cords are being used as permanent wiring in some areas. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring poses a fire and shock hazard, and is an indication that wiring is inadequate and should be updated. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure, resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, and sparks that could start a fire. Extension cords should be removed as necessary, or a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install additional circuits and/or electric receptacles.
5) - A cover plate is missing and the wire connection intended for this box is not located in the box itself. This box is located at the southwest corner of the house under the deck. All exterior electrical connections should be contained in waterproof junction boxes approved for exterior use. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be replaced where necessary, and these exposed wires should be located in appropriate exterior boxes by a qualified electrical contractor.
6) - The wall-mounted exterior light fixtures have wiring that's subject to water intrusion due to caulk not being installed around the light fixture's back plate. Caulk should be applied around the perimeter of back plates where missing. A gap should be left at the bottom for condensation to drain out.
7) - Some hornet, bee and/or wasp nests were found under the soffits. Yellow jackets, in particular, can be very aggressive when disturbed if they establish near people areas. These can pose a safety hazard. Nest(s) should be removed as necessary.
8) - Rot was found on fascia boards, at areas where the gutters appear to be leaking, especially at mitered corners. This is another conducive condition. One problem usually leads to another. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, repairing gutters and replacing all rotten wood.
9) - Siding is damaged and/or deteriorated some areas. Often, the siding located on chimney chases, and siding in close proximity to soils are the first to show signs of water damage. Usually these signs of deterioration are most obvious at the bottom or return edge of the board. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs and/or replace siding as necessary to prevent water and vermin intrusion. This type of LP siding has a history of failure and damage and should be evaluated as to its continued viability. This particular siding is considered by many to be a major defect unless it is perfectly sealed and maintained.Class action lawsuits have been filed or are being filed against most manufacturers of this material.
Since some areas of siding on this structure show the symptoms described above, they are in need of replacement and/or maintenance. Some manufacturers (Louisiana Pacific) recommend a repair process for this siding where affected areas are sealed with "Permanizer Plus", a flexible primer made by Pittsburgh Paint, followed by two coats of 100% acrylic latex paint. This sealant must be applied to the bottom edges using a brush. The face of the siding can be sprayed. The "Permanizer Plus" sealer isn't required for edges that aren't swollen, cracked or deteriorated, but the acrylic latex should still be brushed on these edges.
For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=permanizer+plus
http://www.siding4u.com/failing_siding_help.htm
10) - Several of the exterior lights are loose and in need of caulking at the base to prevent water infiltration and corrosion. The windows on the room addition built over the deck are not weatherstripped and are ill-fitting, with large gaps, allowing infiltration of wind and water. Much of the paint and caulking has deteriorated and is in need of replacement. No drip cap flashings were installed at the time of original construction. These flashings serve to prevent water inflow at the top of windows. The existing caulking on these areas is in need of replacement and ongoing monitoring to maintain a proper seal and prevent water damage. These weatherproofing and caulking improvements can be performed by a competent homeowner or handyman, and are recommended.
11) - I noted a large tree in close proximity to the foundation. Tree roots can cause significant structural damage to foundations. I recommend keeping these trees cut back to a distance of 12" from siding, foundation. roof, and guttersand monitoring this area to prevent damage to these areas. Vegetation in contact with any part of the dwelling is a conducive condition, which can lead to moisture damage, fungal rot, and deterioration of all of the structural components in a wall. It also provides a highway for rodents, vermin, and wood destroying insects (WDOs).
12) - There is a damaged downspout at the southeast corner. The gutter over the garage door is torn, allowing water to escape. This area needs to be replaced. Many corners on the gutter system are leaking and are adversely affecting the fascia boards by over saturation and fungal growth. Gutter damage can also restrict the water flow and result in clogging and overflowing gutters, as is evident on the face of the gutters. Water may accumulate around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Damaged downspouts and gutters should be repaired or replaced as necessary by a qualified contractor, and gutters should be kept free from debris at all times.
13) - The front porch deck is sloping due to settlement of the front deck posts, and deterioration due to earth to wood contact. This is a conducive condition and requires repair by a qualified professional. The close proximity of vegetation exacerbates an already poor condition.
14) - The backyard area of the ground near the structure has significantly soggy soil, standing water or indications of accumulated water at times (sediment, dead grass, etc.). I recommend consulting with a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage, to determine if or what repairs are needed to provide adequate drainage. Possible repairs may involve grading soil, or installing, repairing and/or replacing underground drains. These areas in the southwest corner of the yard have contributed to a significant amount of water in the crawlspace. The water feature in the backyard may also be a contributor of water and drainage problems, however, this feature has been excluded from this inspection report, and can be evaluated when a drainage expert is on site, to determine the ability of this feature to retain water without affecting the surrounding area.
15) - Fences and/or gates are in contact with the siding in some areas. This can be more critical with this type of siding. Any area of exposure and water infiltration can cause deterioration. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs or replace sections as necessary.
16) - The room addition and the upper west side gutters are poorly sloped so that significant amounts of water accumulate in them rather than draining through the downspouts. This can cause gutters to overflow, especially when organic debris such as leaves or needles have accumulated in them. The gutters on many homes are installed flush with the roof line, instead of on a slope, which is the reason that monitoring and maintenance is critical in these areas. I recommend inspecting the gutters at least two times a year,and more if possible, especially during the fall when leaves and debris tend to accumulate. When on site to replace the damaged gutter over the garage, a qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as correcting the slope in gutters or installing additional downspouts and extensions if necessary.
17) - The two outside faucets leak. For example, from the valve stem when turned on or from the spigot when turned off. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.
18) - The perimeter grading slopes towards the structure in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms. Wet soil may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with a slope of at least 5% (10% or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet. In some cases changing of grade is not possible or practical. However, the possible addition of surfaceand/or perimeter drains can have a significant impact. The water feature in the backyard can also be affecting the presence of excess standing water in the yard. I recommend the expertise of a qualified drain and grading contractor.
19) - I noted that one downspout has no extension or drain pipe to channel water away from the house. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure. Downspouts that are not tied in to a drain system should extend at least 6' from the wall.
20) - Some of the crawl space vent screens are blocked by soil, debris, insulation, stored items or removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed. These vents screens should be left open year round, if danger of freezing pipes is not an issue. If freezing is an issue, all water pipes should be thoroughly insulated, and vents left open. Unvented crawlspaces can lead to water infiltration via vapor into the house. As much as ten to twelve gallons of water can enter a house with no vapor barrier and closed vents.
21) - Wooden deck support posts on the front deck and under the room addition on the back deck are in contact with soil and are decaying. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require that there be at least 6" of space between any wood and the soil below, even if the wood is treated. If possible, soil should be removed or graded so a 6" clearance is maintained. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as replacing rotten posts, or trimming rotten post bases and installing concrete and metal post bases. If possible, soil should be removed or graded so a 6" clearance is maintained. Otherwise recommend installing borate based Impel rods to prevent rot. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?q=impel+rods
22) - Wood beams, joists and/or support posts are too close to the soil at the front deck and under the Arizona room. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require the following clearances to soil below:

6 inches between support post bases and the soil below

Efforts should be made, such as grading and/or removing soil, to maintain these clearances. If this is not practical, then installing borate based Impel rods may help to prevent infestation and damage. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?q=impel+rods
23) - ] The hose bibb over the back deck was tested and is leaking. This faucet may be rebuilt or replaced by a professional plumber, and I recommend this be done. The water pressure was tested at 48psi, which is within the recommended standards.
24) - The roof gutter that terminates against the chimney chase on the west wall has no kick out, which allows water to drain out at the chase wall. This is causing staining and deterioration of the siding. A failed end cap and/or excess debris may also be contributing to this damage. I recommend that a qualified gutter specialist add a kick out in this area.

Roof
37) - The roofing material is a single layer of asphalt composite shingles. Age of shingles and remaining life is undetermined, however, no major problems were noted. The roof has a six/twelve pitch. There are no edge flashings on either the bottom edge or the rake sides of the roof. This exposes the edges of the roof sheathing to possible water and sun damage. Due to the presence of skip sheathing, it was determined that the existing roof has replaced an original wood shake or shingle roof. Evidence of the original wood shingle roof was found in the attic. I recommend the addition of edge flashing by a qualified professional to prolong the life of the sub-structure.

Garage
43) - The attic access door on the ceiling surface between the attached garage and the garage attic is missing. These surfaces are intended to prevent vehicle fumes from entering living spaces, and to slow the spread of fire from the garage to living spaces. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so the attached garage wall and ceiling surfaces that adjoin living spaces are tightly sealed and fire rated as per standard building practices. Typically these surfaces require a one-hour fire rating. The attic over the garage is excluded from this inspection due to the presence of many stored items in this area. While inspecting this area from a ladder, I noted that there was no insulation on the bedroom wall that is located in this area. This can create a cool wall or cool area effect in the bedroom. There are also two vents that terminate at a roof jack, which is an improper installation. The implications of this are possible excess moisture in the attic area which can lead to fungal or bacterial growth on the roof sheathing. This concern can be addressed by the H-VAC professional when on site for the furnace servicing.
44) - Although the auto-reverse mechanism on the vehicle door was functional when tested, it requires more force than recommended to activate. This door should reverse with light pressure upon contact with an object or person. An adjustment could amend this concern. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html
http://www.ohdstl.com/safety.html
45) - The utility sink in the garage has no p-trap on the left side. This can allow sewer gases back up into the garage. The function of a p-trap is to effectively block the back flow of these gases by trapping water in the bend of the trap. These gases contain methane gas, which is flammable in high enough concentration. I was unable to test the water faucet for leaks due to stored items in the sink, but there is evidence of a water leak around this area. The faucet and sink are excluded from this inspection, due to inaccessibility. I recommend that a plumbing contractor or qualified professional install a p-trap and address these other concerns while on site.
46) - The wall-mounted control for the vehicle door opener is less than five feet off the floor, or within reach of children. This is a safety hazard, especially for children. Children should not be able to operate vehicle door openers. Controls for door openers should be relocated as necessary so they're at least 5 feet above floors and/or out of reach of children. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html
http://www.ohdstl.com/safety.html
47) - The hot water heater in the garage has a pressure relief valve that is vented with a copper flex line. Flex line has been determined to be unsafe in this application, as the vent line could break loose and flail under extreme pressures. My recommendation is to replace this line with solid copper or cpvc, and at the same time replace the strapping with approved seismic straps. This hot water heater is a Whirlpool gas heater, 40 gal., with a manufacture date of Aug. 2004. I discovered a small exhaust leak at the T- connection joint where the furnace and hot water heater vents pipes meet. Though small at this time, I recommend having this fitting repaired or replaced, as there is a danger of exhaust fumes entering into the garage space. This work should performed by a qualified H-VAC professional. While on site, the H-VAC pro should also inspect and service the gas furnace. I noted that this Trane furnace has combustible stored items in too close proximity. This area should be cleared of all combustible items, as this presents a safety hazard.

Attic
50) - Recessed "can" lights are installed in the ceiling below the attic. The inspector was unable to find a label or markings that indicated if these lights are designed to be in contact with insulation, and one or more lights are in contact with insulation. This is a possible fire hazard. Further evaluation should be performed, by a qualified contractor if necessary, to determine if these lights are rated for contact with insulation. If they aren't, or if their rating can't be determined, insulation should be moved, and wells or barriers should be installed or repaired as necessary to keep the insulation away from these lights.

Electric service
54) - Inadequate working space exists for the main service panel. Standard building practices require the following clearances:

The wall below the panel is clear to the floor

A qualified contractor and/or electrician should evaluate and make modifications as necessary.
55) - While traversing the exterior, I was unable to find an emergency shut-off for the hot tub, and noted that it was wired improperly. I recommend that both of these improvements be made by a qualified electrician.

Water heater
56) - The water heater's seismic straps or struts are substandard. For example, they may allow significant movement or use improper fasteners. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause leaks in the gas supply lines or damage wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should evaluate and either repair existing straps or install new straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
57) - The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. In addition, excess temperatures can shorten the lifespan of water heaters and create problems with temperature relief valves. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5098.html
58) - No expansion tank is installed on this structure's water supply system. Expansion tanks are recommended when a property is on a public water supply system and the property's water system is "closed" via a pressure reducing valve (PRV), check valve, or backflow preventer. No room for expansion of water exists in this type of system. Thermal expansion occurs when water is heated during non-use periods. In a closed system with no provision for expansion, its effects may include:

Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains

Ideally, water should not enter crawl spaces, but if water must be controlled after it enters the crawl space, then typical repairs include installing trenches, drains and/or sump pump(s) in the crawl space.
71) - Some of the crawl space vent screens are blocked by soil, debris, insulation, stored items or removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed. These vents screens should be left open year round, if danger of freezing pipes is not an issue.
72) - Insulation under the floor in the crawlspace is damaged, deteriorated, or has fallen down. This condition exists under many houses, as rodents climb on top of the insulation, causing it to fall. A qualified contractor should make repairs as necessary to restore the insulation to its original rating.

Kitchen
74) - The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?q=range+anti+tip+device
75) - The under-sink food disposal is noisy. A qualified plumber or contractor should evaluate and repair or replace the food disposal as necessary.

Bathrooms
79) - A floor tile is damaged and/or deteriorated in the doorway of the master bath. This could be a safety concern to bare feet or toes. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary. For example, replacing broken tiles and deteriorated grout, and resealing grout.
80) - Handles and/or drawer pulls are not installed on the cabinets in the hall bath, and the drawers and/or doors are difficult to open without them. I recommend installing handles and/or pulls as necessary.
81) - The upstairs hall and master bath toilets are loose at the tank to bowl connection. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new rubber gasket or 'donut' should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.
82) - Upstairs hall and master bathtub drains are clogged or drain slowly. Drain(s) should be cleared as necessary, and by a qualified plumber if necessary.

Interior rooms
85) - No bedroom smoke alarms are visible. This is a safety hazard. A qualified electrician should install smoke alarms as per standard building practices (functioning one exists in hallways leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom, etc.). The smoke detector at the downstairs hallway is hanging down from the ceiling and requires reattachment. For more information, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
86) - Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?q=old+smoke+alarms
87) - There are windows in the rear deck room addition that extend down to within 18 inches of the floor and do not appear to be made of tempered glass. If the glass is not tempered, then this is a potential safety hazard. Typically a label is etched into the corner of tempered glass panes to indicate that they are tempered. The inspector was unable to find such labels. Recommend consulting with the property owner(s) and/or have a glass specialist evaluate to determine if glass is tempered and make repairs as necessary. If it cannot be determined that the glass is tempered, then a qualified contractor should either replace glass as necessary with tempered glass and as per standard building practices, or install protective devices as necessary, such as wooden bars.
88) - The room addition exterior entry door has a keyed deadbolt lock. I recommend replacing this lock with a lever type lock, to allow for easier emergency exit.
89) - Gaps larger than four inches were found in the entry guardrails. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should make modifications as necessary so gaps in guardrails do not exceed four inches. For example, installing additional balusters or railing components.
90) - Living room bay air supply register is loose or installed in a substandard way. Repairs should be made as necessary so registers are securely attached, flush with the surface they are installed on, and otherwise correctly installed.
91) - The upstairs hallway bathroom door will not latch when closed. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For example, aligning strike plates with latch bolts and/or replacing locksets.
92) - The weatherstrip around the room addition exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
93) - The family room sliding glass doors are damaged and/or deteriorated. These doors are very difficult to operate and the locking mechanism is non-functional. A qualified contractor should replace door(s) as necessary.
94) - Trim is missing and loose. The upstairs hall bathroom has areas of loose trim in one or more areas. Recommend having a qualified contractor install trim where missing, and replace or repair trim where necessary.
95) - Door stops are damaged in several areas. The rubber tips are missing and mechanical damage is evident. This is also a safety hazard for bare feet. I recommend having a qualified contractor replace door stops as needed.
96) - The window sills in the room addition are loose or damaged, and the locks on these windows are missing or non-functional. These defects should be repaired or replaced by a qualified contractor.
97) - The dimmer switch in the living room tested as damaged or non-functional. I recommend replacing this switch.