| Property Inspection Report For: | |
| Client(s): | Hilde and John Korso |
| Property address: | 1337 Marie Ct. Bellingham, Wash. 98226 |
| Inspection date: | Tuesday, January 26, 2010 |
This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited. Clients often ask about the services that the home inspector provides, the extent of the inspection, and the implications derived from a comprehensive inspection. As an overview, the home inspector is a generalist with broad knowledge on many topics. A quality home inspector is well versed in all fields of residential construction. The home inspector gives an overview or snapshot in time of the condition of the property and major and minor defects visible on the day of the inspection, and recommendations to amending these defects. As such, the home inspector is not unlike a family doctor, in that he can diagnose an obvious problem and make recommendations for treatment, but then will often send you to a specialist in a given field to address the problem. Most, if not all, properties, have areas, some minor some major, where improvements can be made. It is to the discretion of the client to utilize these recommendations. I will categorize in my summary the areas that I consider the most critical for repair or replacement. The greatest emphasis will be afforded to areas where safety and health issues, to both the client and the house, are compromised by structural damage, pests, and/or incomplete or inefficient construction. It is not required for inspectors to cite code, as codes have changed many times over the years and are continuing to do so. By the Washington State Standards of Practice, an inspection is visual, non-invasive, and should not be technically exhaustive. It is possible that all problems or defects will not be discovered on the day of inspection, as the inspector does not experience all of the conditions that a house is exposed to throughout the year. Our goal is to discover defects that are visually obvious and to search for signs of possible problems that may exist during other weather conditions, etc. The job of an inspector is to inspect the structure and major systems of the house and describe these areas of concern in a written report. Inspectors do not enter or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the inspector, or anyone else. Inspectors do not move personal property, debris, furniture, equipment, carpeting, et al, to inspect an area. I feel that it is incumbent for an inspector to place themselves in the position of the client. In other words, what do I want to know about a property? The simple answer is everything. Therefore, an inspection report is, by design and nature, a report of the problematic areas of a house. The report does not include or mention all of the areas that are right about a house, and is not meant to dissuade or influence, in any way, a clients decision. Remember to keep things in perspective. My intent is to be as helpful as possible prior to, during, and following the inspection. I strongly urge that my clients read the full report, as many of the concerns that are addressed in the main report do not transfer to the summary report, which contains the most urgent areas of concern. In addition, the recommendations for repair made throughout this report are important safety guidelines, offered to protect both the client and the home. Many of these repairs require the expertise of qualified licensed and bonded professionals, as suggested. There are, however, many minor repairs and ongoing monitoring and maintenance operations that can be performed by qualified, competent homeowners and/or handymen. Many of the defects and problems that are found during the course of a home inspection could have been,and can be prevented, by simply learning to identify and address minor issues before they become major issues. Take care of your house and it will take care of you.
 | Safety | Poses a risk of injury or death |
 | Major Defect | Correction likely involves a significant expense |
 | Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing |
 | Repair/Maintain | Recommend repair and/or maintenance |
 | Minor Defect | Correction likely involves only a minor expense |
 | Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance |
 | Evaluate | Recommend evaluation by a specialist |
 | Monitor | Recommend monitoring in the future |
 | Comment | For your information |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp| General information | Return to table of contents |
| Exterior | Return to table of contents |
Soil is in contact with or less than six inches from siding and/or trim. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Soil should be graded and/or removed as necessary so there are at least six inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil below. There are several areas by the back deck that have soil stacked against the deck stairs. The deck itself is in need of repair and /or replacement, with areas of decay. The painted surface of the deck is quite slippery when wet and can pose a serious tripping hazard. The main beam that spans under the deck and under the add-on or Arizona room is in contact with the soil, which is a conducive condition. As an explanation of conducive conditions, these are conditions that exist that will directly attack and cause rot and/or decay in the structural components, such as earth to wood contact, excess moisture levels, or a combination of soil contact, moisture, and certain temperature ranges that will attract and be favorable to a host of wood destroying organisms and insects, and certain fungal or bacterial organisms. As mentioned above, the lack of a vapor barrier under this structure is of critical concern. The standards for adequate distance between the soil and the wooden sub-structure are twelve inches to beams and eighteen inches to joists. I recommend repair or replacement of the deck by a qualified professional carpentry contractor,and highly recommend the addition of a vapor barrier under the Arizona room.
Significant trip hazards were found in the driveway due to cracks, settlement and/or heaving. At the junction of the driveway to the front door sidewalk is an area of heaved pavement that is considered a safety hazard. I recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate and repair or replace driveway sections as necessary to eliminate trip hazards.
 Photo 11 This could be an unwelcome surprise on a dark night
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 Photo 22 Over time, as these pavers settle, the unevenness of the surface could be difficult to negotiate.
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The exterior electric receptacles have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, not an uncommon defect in houses of this age. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock because of the close proximity of water, soil contact, and electrical tools and appliances. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repairs should be made so that all outdoor receptacles within six feet six inches of ground level have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed. This is an important safety upgrade.
 Photo 19 |
Extension cords are being used as permanent wiring in some areas. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring poses a fire and shock hazard, and is an indication that wiring is inadequate and should be updated. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure, resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, and sparks that could start a fire. Extension cords should be removed as necessary, or a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install additional circuits and/or electric receptacles.
A cover plate is missing and the wire connection intended for this box is not located in the box itself. This box is located at the southwest corner of the house under the deck. All exterior electrical connections should be contained in waterproof junction boxes approved for exterior use. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be replaced where necessary, and these exposed wires should be located in appropriate exterior boxes by a qualified electrical contractor.
 Photo 7 This box is located under the deck at the southwest corner.
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The wall-mounted exterior light fixtures have wiring that's subject to water intrusion due to caulk not being installed around the light fixture's back plate. Caulk should be applied around the perimeter of back plates where missing. A gap should be left at the bottom for condensation to drain out.
Some hornet, bee and/or wasp nests were found under the soffits. Yellow jackets, in particular, can be very aggressive when disturbed if they establish near people areas. These can pose a safety hazard. Nest(s) should be removed as necessary.
Rot was found on fascia boards, at areas where the gutters appear to be leaking, especially at mitered corners. This is another conducive condition. One problem usually leads to another. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, repairing gutters and replacing all rotten wood.
 Photo 12 |
Siding is damaged and/or deteriorated some areas. Often, the siding located on chimney chases, and siding in close proximity to soils are the first to show signs of water damage. Usually these signs of deterioration are most obvious at the bottom or return edge of the board. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs and/or replace siding as necessary to prevent water and vermin intrusion. This type of LP siding has a history of failure and damage and should be evaluated as to its continued viability. This particular siding is considered by many to be a major defect unless it is perfectly sealed and maintained.Class action lawsuits have been filed or are being filed against most manufacturers of this material.
 Photo 24 The bottom edges of the siding on the chimney chase in need of sealing
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 Photo 27 This is the identifying mark of LP siding.
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Several of the exterior lights are loose and in need of caulking at the base to prevent water infiltration and corrosion. The windows on the room addition built over the deck are not weatherstripped and are ill-fitting, with large gaps, allowing infiltration of wind and water. Much of the paint and caulking has deteriorated and is in need of replacement. No drip cap flashings were installed at the time of original construction. These flashings serve to prevent water inflow at the top of windows. The existing caulking on these areas is in need of replacement and ongoing monitoring to maintain a proper seal and prevent water damage. These weatherproofing and caulking improvements can be performed by a competent homeowner or handyman, and are recommended.
I noted a large tree in close proximity to the foundation. Tree roots can cause significant structural damage to foundations. I recommend keeping these trees cut back to a distance of 12" from siding, foundation. roof, and guttersand monitoring this area to prevent damage to these areas. Vegetation in contact with any part of the dwelling is a conducive condition, which can lead to moisture damage, fungal rot, and deterioration of all of the structural components in a wall. It also provides a highway for rodents, vermin, and wood destroying insects (WDOs).
There is a damaged downspout at the southeast corner. The gutter over the garage door is torn, allowing water to escape. This area needs to be replaced. Many corners on the gutter system are leaking and are adversely affecting the fascia boards by over saturation and fungal growth. Gutter damage can also restrict the water flow and result in clogging and overflowing gutters, as is evident on the face of the gutters. Water may accumulate around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Damaged downspouts and gutters should be repaired or replaced as necessary by a qualified contractor, and gutters should be kept free from debris at all times.
 Photo 13 |
The front porch deck is sloping due to settlement of the front deck posts, and deterioration due to earth to wood contact. This is a conducive condition and requires repair by a qualified professional. The close proximity of vegetation exacerbates an already poor condition.
 Photo 10 Moisture holding vegetation and decayed and settling support posts have compromised the integrity of this structure.
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The backyard area of the ground near the structure has significantly soggy soil, standing water or indications of accumulated water at times (sediment, dead grass, etc.). I recommend consulting with a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage, to determine if or what repairs are needed to provide adequate drainage. Possible repairs may involve grading soil, or installing, repairing and/or replacing underground drains. These areas in the southwest corner of the yard have contributed to a significant amount of water in the crawlspace. The water feature in the backyard may also be a contributor of water and drainage problems, however, this feature has been excluded from this inspection report, and can be evaluated when a drainage expert is on site, to determine the ability of this feature to retain water without affecting the surrounding area.
 Photo 25 |
 Photo 6 |
Fences and/or gates are in contact with the siding in some areas. This can be more critical with this type of siding. Any area of exposure and water infiltration can cause deterioration. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs or replace sections as necessary.
 Photo 14 |
The room addition and the upper west side gutters are poorly sloped so that significant amounts of water accumulate in them rather than draining through the downspouts. This can cause gutters to overflow, especially when organic debris such as leaves or needles have accumulated in them. The gutters on many homes are installed flush with the roof line, instead of on a slope, which is the reason that monitoring and maintenance is critical in these areas. I recommend inspecting the gutters at least two times a year,and more if possible, especially during the fall when leaves and debris tend to accumulate. When on site to replace the damaged gutter over the garage, a qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as correcting the slope in gutters or installing additional downspouts and extensions if necessary.
The two outside faucets leak. For example, from the valve stem when turned on or from the spigot when turned off. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.
The perimeter grading slopes towards the structure in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms. Wet soil may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with a slope of at least 5% (10% or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet. In some cases changing of grade is not possible or practical. However, the possible addition of surfaceand/or perimeter drains can have a significant impact. The water feature in the backyard can also be affecting the presence of excess standing water in the yard. I recommend the expertise of a qualified drain and grading contractor.
I noted that one downspout has no extension or drain pipe to channel water away from the house. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure. Downspouts that are not tied in to a drain system should extend at least 6' from the wall.
 Photo 3 |
Some of the crawl space vent screens are blocked by soil, debris, insulation, stored items or removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed. These vents screens should be left open year round, if danger of freezing pipes is not an issue. If freezing is an issue, all water pipes should be thoroughly insulated, and vents left open. Unvented crawlspaces can lead to water infiltration via vapor into the house. As much as ten to twelve gallons of water can enter a house with no vapor barrier and closed vents.
Wooden deck support posts on the front deck and under the room addition on the back deck are in contact with soil and are decaying. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require that there be at least 6" of space between any wood and the soil below, even if the wood is treated. If possible, soil should be removed or graded so a 6" clearance is maintained. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as replacing rotten posts, or trimming rotten post bases and installing concrete and metal post bases. If possible, soil should be removed or graded so a 6" clearance is maintained. Otherwise recommend installing borate based Impel rods to prevent rot. For more information, visit:
Wood beams, joists and/or support posts are too close to the soil at the front deck and under the Arizona room. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require the following clearances to soil below:
] The hose bibb over the back deck was tested and is leaking. This faucet may be rebuilt or replaced by a professional plumber, and I recommend this be done. The water pressure was tested at 48psi, which is within the recommended standards.
The roof gutter that terminates against the chimney chase on the west wall has no kick out, which allows water to drain out at the chase wall. This is causing staining and deterioration of the siding. A failed end cap and/or excess debris may also be contributing to this damage. I recommend that a qualified gutter specialist add a kick out in this area.
 Photo 8 |
Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.
Covered sections of foundation and/or exterior walls are excluded from this inspection due to lack of access from vegetation, debris and/or stored items.
Gaps exist at several openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, refrigerant lines, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin. An area on the east side of the foundation appears to be allowing access to rats into the crawlspace, and there is evidence of moderate to heavy rat presence. This area should be cleared of debris and sealed to prevent entry of pests.
The exterior finish in some areas, especially around windows, is failing. A qualified contractor should prep (pressure wash, scrape, sand, prime caulk, etc.) and repaint or restain areas as needed and as per standard building practices.
Decking boards are spaced closer together than 3/8 inch with accumulated organic debris (leaves, fir needles, etc.). This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Debris should be cleaned as necessary to prevent accumulation and resultant rot. If or when the deck boards are replaced, recommend spacing boards so they're at least 3/8 inch apart to allow debris to fall through the cracks rather than accumulate in them.
Firewood is stored so that it's either in contact with the structure or very close to it. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects. Recommend storing firewood outdoors in an open area, as far away from the house as practical, to keep away insects. There is also a stack of cut lumber or firewood in the garage. This should be removed to a proper distance from the house. For more information, visit:
 Photo 1 |
The substructure of the deck is excluded from the inspection due to limited access because of the low height. When on site, a qualified professional should determine the integrity of this structure.
Trees and/or shrubs are in contact with or are close to the roof edge(s) in one or more areas. Damage to the roof may result, especially during high winds. Vegetation can also act as a conduit for wood destroying insects. Vegetation should be pruned back and/or removed as necessary to prevent damage and infestation by wood destroying insects.
Minor cracks were found in the driveway. However they don't appear to be a structural concern and no trip hazards were found. No immediate action is recommended, but the client(s) may wish to have repairs made or have cracked sections replaced for aesthetic reasons.
All of the upper roof downspouts terminate above roof surfaces rather than being routed to gutters below or to the ground level. This is very common, but it can reduce the life of roof surface materials below due to large amounts of water frequently flowing over the roof surface. Granules typically are washed off of the composition shingles as a result, and leaks may occur. I recommend considering having a qualified contractor install extensions as necessary so downspouts don't terminate above roof surfaces.
 Photo 9 |
 Photo 15 |
| Roof | Return to table of contents |
The roofing material is a single layer of asphalt composite shingles. Age of shingles and remaining life is undetermined, however, no major problems were noted. The roof has a six/twelve pitch. There are no edge flashings on either the bottom edge or the rake sides of the roof. This exposes the edges of the roof sheathing to possible water and sun damage. Due to the presence of skip sheathing, it was determined that the existing roof has replaced an original wood shake or shingle roof. Evidence of the original wood shingle roof was found in the attic. I recommend the addition of edge flashing by a qualified professional to prolong the life of the sub-structure.
The gutters on the upper story of the roof have been terminated at the roof rather than extended down to the lower gutters. Many homeowners do not extend these downspouts along the roof for aesthetic reasons. However, these extensions are recommended, as they can extend the life of your roof.
Debris has accumulated in one or more gutters. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects since gutters may overflow and cause water to come in contact with the structure's exterior or make water accumulate around the foundation. Gutters should be cleaned now and as necessary in the future.
Trees and/or shrubs are in contact with or are close to the roof edge(s) in one or more areas. Damage to the roof may result, especially during high winds. Vegetation can also act as a conduit for wood destroying insects. Vegetation should be pruned back and/or removed as necessary to prevent damage and infestation by wood destroying insects.
The roof over the deck room addition is a low sloped metal roof. No leaks were detected at the time of inspection, however, close monitoring is advised, as metal roof fasteners commonly loosen, creating an avenue for water intrusion.
Because of the configuration of the roof, the steepness of the slope, and the presence of frost, the inspector was unable to traverse the roof and wasn't able to fully evaluate the entire roof. The roof was partially inspected from a ladder at the eaves and with binoculars. Other than those indicated, no additional defects were noted.
| Garage | Return to table of contents |
The attic access door on the ceiling surface between the attached garage and the garage attic is missing. These surfaces are intended to prevent vehicle fumes from entering living spaces, and to slow the spread of fire from the garage to living spaces. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so the attached garage wall and ceiling surfaces that adjoin living spaces are tightly sealed and fire rated as per standard building practices. Typically these surfaces require a one-hour fire rating. The attic over the garage is excluded from this inspection due to the presence of many stored items in this area. While inspecting this area from a ladder, I noted that there was no insulation on the bedroom wall that is located in this area. This can create a cool wall or cool area effect in the bedroom. There are also two vents that terminate at a roof jack, which is an improper installation. The implications of this are possible excess moisture in the attic area which can lead to fungal or bacterial growth on the roof sheathing. This concern can be addressed by the H-VAC professional when on site for the furnace servicing.
 Photo 23 This is a fire safety hazard
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Although the auto-reverse mechanism on the vehicle door was functional when tested, it requires more force than recommended to activate. This door should reverse with light pressure upon contact with an object or person. An adjustment could amend this concern. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
The utility sink in the garage has no p-trap on the left side. This can allow sewer gases back up into the garage. The function of a p-trap is to effectively block the back flow of these gases by trapping water in the bend of the trap. These gases contain methane gas, which is flammable in high enough concentration. I was unable to test the water faucet for leaks due to stored items in the sink, but there is evidence of a water leak around this area. The faucet and sink are excluded from this inspection, due to inaccessibility. I recommend that a plumbing contractor or qualified professional install a p-trap and address these other concerns while on site.
 Photo 49 Some creative plumbing
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The wall-mounted control for the vehicle door opener is less than five feet off the floor, or within reach of children. This is a safety hazard, especially for children. Children should not be able to operate vehicle door openers. Controls for door openers should be relocated as necessary so they're at least 5 feet above floors and/or out of reach of children. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
 Photo 39 Close, but 60" is the safety standard
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The hot water heater in the garage has a pressure relief valve that is vented with a copper flex line. Flex line has been determined to be unsafe in this application, as the vent line could break loose and flail under extreme pressures. My recommendation is to replace this line with solid copper or cpvc, and at the same time replace the strapping with approved seismic straps. This hot water heater is a Whirlpool gas heater, 40 gal., with a manufacture date of Aug. 2004. I discovered a small exhaust leak at the T- connection joint where the furnace and hot water heater vents pipes meet. Though small at this time, I recommend having this fitting repaired or replaced, as there is a danger of exhaust fumes entering into the garage space. This work should performed by a qualified H-VAC professional. While on site, the H-VAC pro should also inspect and service the gas furnace. I noted that this Trane furnace has combustible stored items in too close proximity. This area should be cleared of all combustible items, as this presents a safety hazard.
 Photo 37 |
 Photo 38 |
Much of the garage, including areas around the interior perimeter and in the center are excluded from this inspection due to lack of access from stored items.
The main electric service box is a 200 amp Cutler Hammer box. The new standards for safety recommend installing AFCI breakers (arc fault circuit interrupters) for the circuits that supply electricity to bedrooms. I recommend this safety upgrade be installed by a licensed and bonded electrical contractor.
| Attic | Return to table of contents |
Recessed "can" lights are installed in the ceiling below the attic. The inspector was unable to find a label or markings that indicated if these lights are designed to be in contact with insulation, and one or more lights are in contact with insulation. This is a possible fire hazard. Further evaluation should be performed, by a qualified contractor if necessary, to determine if these lights are rated for contact with insulation. If they aren't, or if their rating can't be determined, insulation should be moved, and wells or barriers should be installed or repaired as necessary to keep the insulation away from these lights.
The ducting for a bathroom is uninsulated. This can lead to accelerated cooling and condensation of steam and moisture in bathroom and dryer vents. Ducts can become clogged or excessively wet, creating leaks at joints. I recommend wrapping both dryer and bathroom vents to prevent condensation.
No weatherstrip is installed around the attic access hatch. Weatherstrip should be installed around the hatch to prevent heated interior air from entering attic.
The attic areas in the garage and house were inaccessible due to lack of permanently installed walkway, the possibility of damage to insulation, low height and/or stored items. These areas are excluded from this inspection. These areas were inspected from a ladder. There were no visible defects noted in house attic. There is no gasket or weatherstrip for the attic hatch doors the house or garage.
| Electric service | Return to table of contents |
Inadequate working space exists for the main service panel. Standard building practices require the following clearances:
While traversing the exterior, I was unable to find an emergency shut-off for the hot tub, and noted that it was wired improperly. I recommend that both of these improvements be made by a qualified electrician.
| Water heater | Return to table of contents |
The water heater's seismic straps or struts are substandard. For example, they may allow significant movement or use improper fasteners. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause leaks in the gas supply lines or damage wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should evaluate and either repair existing straps or install new straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. In addition, excess temperatures can shorten the lifespan of water heaters and create problems with temperature relief valves. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
No expansion tank is installed on this structure's water supply system. Expansion tanks are recommended when a property is on a public water supply system and the property's water system is "closed" via a pressure reducing valve (PRV), check valve, or backflow preventer. No room for expansion of water exists in this type of system. Thermal expansion occurs when water is heated during non-use periods. In a closed system with no provision for expansion, its effects may include:| Heating and cooling | Return to table of contents |
The estimated useful life for most forced air furnaces is 15 to 20 years. This furnace appears to be approaching this age and may need replacing at any time. This unit was functioning at the time of inspection, but I found no record of it having been serviced in the recent past. I recommend a full service and cleaning by an H-Vac professional, and I also recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
Insulation on one or more heating/cooling ducts in unconditioned spaces is damaged and/or deteriorated. A qualified contractor should evaluate and replace insulation and/or ducts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
The last service date of this system appears to be more than two years ago, or the inspector was unable to determine the last service date. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when it was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than two years ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. This servicing should be performed every few years in the future, or as per the contractor's recommendations.
| Plumbing and laundry | Return to table of contents |
The clothes dryer flexible vent is detached from the back of the dryer, which is allowing the dryer to exhaust into the house. I recommend re-attaching this vent pipe as soon as possible to stop the ingress of exhaust.
 Photo 35 A disconnected vent pipe
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Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection. I recommend replacing the existing rubber supply hoses on the washer with metal reinforced washer hoses, as many laundry room leaks are a direct result of these rubber hoses bursting.
Stains were found areas of drain and/or waste pipes in the garage laundry sink. Recommend monitoring these areas in the future, and if leaks are found, have a qualified plumber evaluate and repair as necessary. Alternatively, the client(s) may wish to have a qualified plumber evaluate now and repair if necessary.
 Photo 21 The dryer vent under the deck is in need of maintenance and should be relocated
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| Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys | Return to table of contents |
The fireplace hearth is less than 18 inches deep. This is a fire hazard. At a minimum, non-combustible hearth pad(s) should be installed. Ideally the hearth(s) should be modified as necessary or installed by a qualified contractor so they are at least 18" deep.
Significant amounts of ashes, wood and/or debris are in the fireplace. The inspector was unable to fully evaluate it. The firebox had significant amounts of unburned pine branches. I noted that the glass doors on the fireplace, which can attain temperatures of up to 800*, are in very close proximity to the combustible wood frame of the fireplace. This can create a pyrolysis effect, which causes the wood to have a much lower combustible temperature. There were blackened sooty areas above the glass doors, indicating that the firebox was allowing the back draft of unburned gases and carbon monoxide into the room. I recommend that this fireplace be evaluated by a qualified fireplace professional.
 Photo 30 Areas above the glass doors are blackened
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 Photo 32 The hot glass surface is almost in contact with combustible wood
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| Crawl space | Return to table of contents |
Oven or appliance cord is being used for permanent wiring in one or more areas. This wiring is not intended to be used as permanent wiring, and poses a safety hazard of shock and fire. This connection supplies power to the hot tub on the back deck. There has been no emergency shut-off switch installed in line for this appliance. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.
 Photo 43 |
Wooden support posts are not securely fastened to beams above. This is a safety hazard since they can separate during a seismic event. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as installing metal ties, bracing with lumber and/or plywood gussets as per standard building practices.
 Photo 40 |
Standing water was found in the southwest section of the crawl space. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. A qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:
 Photo 42 |
Some of the crawl space vent screens are blocked by soil, debris, insulation, stored items or removable panels. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. Materials or items blocking vents should be removed. These vents screens should be left open year round, if danger of freezing pipes is not an issue.
Insulation under the floor in the crawlspace is damaged, deteriorated, or has fallen down. This condition exists under many houses, as rodents climb on top of the insulation, causing it to fall. A qualified contractor should make repairs as necessary to restore the insulation to its original rating.
 Photo 44 |
 Photo 45 |
 Photo 41 This uninsulated dryer vent terminates under a deck
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 Photo 46 Metalized duct tape is preferred at joints
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 Photo 47 |
| Kitchen | Return to table of contents |
The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket appears to be installed. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit:
The under-sink food disposal is noisy. A qualified plumber or contractor should evaluate and repair or replace the food disposal as necessary.
I noted the presence of wildlife in the kitchen area, though he appeared to be non-threatening.
 Photo 48 A friendly fellow
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 Photo 18 Although this vent is functioning to a degree, the air flow is restricted and the constant effect of moist air on the lumber can lead to conducive conditions
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| Bathrooms | Return to table of contents |
A floor tile is damaged and/or deteriorated in the doorway of the master bath. This could be a safety concern to bare feet or toes. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary. For example, replacing broken tiles and deteriorated grout, and resealing grout.
 Photo 50 This broken floor tile like this could be a painful toe-stubber
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Handles and/or drawer pulls are not installed on the cabinets in the hall bath, and the drawers and/or doors are difficult to open without them. I recommend installing handles and/or pulls as necessary.
The upstairs hall and master bath toilets are loose at the tank to bowl connection. A qualified contractor should remove the toilet(s) for further evaluation and repairs if necessary. A new rubber gasket or 'donut' should be installed and toilet(s) should be securely anchored to the floor to prevent movement and leaking.
Upstairs hall and master bathtub drains are clogged or drain slowly. Drain(s) should be cleared as necessary, and by a qualified plumber if necessary.
The attic access in the master bath has no gasket or weatherstrip. This upgrade is recommended to prevent heat loss and moisture intrusion into the attic area.
The escutcheon on the control handle in the upstairs hall bath has gaps which can be the cause of leaks in the drywall ceiling downstairs if water is splashed against this area. This is especially prevalent in tubs that have a flexible hose installed on the shower head, as water flow can be sprayed directly toward the escutcheon. I recommend caulking around the escutcheon and monitoring this area to prevent future leaks. The bathtub faucet in this bathroom continues to drip after the water is shut off, and the shower head hoses in both bathrooms have leaks at their bases. The mirror in the hall bath is not firmly attached to wall, and the door does not latch upon closing. These concerns should addressed by a qualified and competent professional, homeowner, or handyman.
 Photo 31 Even a small hole can cause water problems downstairs.
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| Interior rooms | Return to table of contents |
No bedroom smoke alarms are visible. This is a safety hazard. A qualified electrician should install smoke alarms as per standard building practices (functioning one exists in hallways leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom, etc.). The smoke detector at the downstairs hallway is hanging down from the ceiling and requires reattachment. For more information, visit:
 Photo 29 |
Based on the age of this structure and the appearance of existing smoke alarms, the alarms may be older than 10 years old. According to National Fire Protection Association, aging smoke alarms don't operate as efficiently and often are the source for nuisance alarms. Older smoke alarms are estimated to have a 30% probability of failure within the first 10 years. Newer smoke alarms do better, but should be replaced after 10 years. Unless you know that the smoke alarms are new, replacing them when moving into a new residence is also recommended by NFPA. For more information, visit:
There are windows in the rear deck room addition that extend down to within 18 inches of the floor and do not appear to be made of tempered glass. If the glass is not tempered, then this is a potential safety hazard. Typically a label is etched into the corner of tempered glass panes to indicate that they are tempered. The inspector was unable to find such labels. Recommend consulting with the property owner(s) and/or have a glass specialist evaluate to determine if glass is tempered and make repairs as necessary. If it cannot be determined that the glass is tempered, then a qualified contractor should either replace glass as necessary with tempered glass and as per standard building practices, or install protective devices as necessary, such as wooden bars.
The room addition exterior entry door has a keyed deadbolt lock. I recommend replacing this lock with a lever type lock, to allow for easier emergency exit.
Gaps larger than four inches were found in the entry guardrails. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should make modifications as necessary so gaps in guardrails do not exceed four inches. For example, installing additional balusters or railing components.
 Photo 28 |
Living room bay air supply register is loose or installed in a substandard way. Repairs should be made as necessary so registers are securely attached, flush with the surface they are installed on, and otherwise correctly installed.
 Photo 34 |
The upstairs hallway bathroom door will not latch when closed. Repairs should be made as necessary, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For example, aligning strike plates with latch bolts and/or replacing locksets.
The weatherstrip around the room addition exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
 Photo 33 |
The family room sliding glass doors are damaged and/or deteriorated. These doors are very difficult to operate and the locking mechanism is non-functional. A qualified contractor should replace door(s) as necessary.
Trim is missing and loose. The upstairs hall bathroom has areas of loose trim in one or more areas. Recommend having a qualified contractor install trim where missing, and replace or repair trim where necessary.
Door stops are damaged in several areas. The rubber tips are missing and mechanical damage is evident. This is also a safety hazard for bare feet. I recommend having a qualified contractor replace door stops as needed.
 Photo 36 This could be a painful injury to bare feet
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The window sills in the room addition are loose or damaged, and the locks on these windows are missing or non-functional. These defects should be repaired or replaced by a qualified contractor.
The dimmer switch in the living room tested as damaged or non-functional. I recommend replacing this switch.
