Home Inspection Report

1) Modifications / additions to this property may have been made. Consult with the property owner about this. Recommend you contact town hall to make sure all appropriate permits are on file.

If substantial work was performed without permits this knowledge must be disclosed when the building is sold in the future. This can adversely affect future sales. Also, the local municipality could require costly alterations to bring the building into legal compliance or even require that the additions or modifications be removed.

2) Environmental testing is not included as a part of this home inspection but I did see what appeared to be areas of mold in the attic and/or basement. Source of moisture needs to be eliminated and the area(s) cleaned or repaired. The client may wish to have further evaluation or testing performed. Go to www.EPA.gov/mold for more info.. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to identify what substance or organism this staining is. However such staining is normally caused by excessively moist conditions, which in turn can be caused by plumbing or building envelope leaks and/or substandard ventilation. These conducive conditions should be corrected before making any attempts to remove or correct the staining.

3) Hand rails at exterior missing, recommend adding for safety. Contact appropriate contractor for repair or correction.

4) Gate at pool should be lockable and self-closing with a secure latch. Recommend correction for safety. Gates need to swing and open away from pool area. Go to https://www.cpsc.gov/safety-education/safety-guides/pools-and-spas for more info. Recommend pool contractor evaluate pool and grounds for safety.

5) Driveway damaged, looks like it will need replacement. Contact driveway contractor for evaluation, replace or repair as suggested.

6) Bedroom veranda is starting to go soft, recommend carpenter evaluate and replace as needed.

Noted deteriorated or rotting wood at door(s), soffits/fascias and/or rear porch that will need repair or replacement. Contact carpenter for evaluation and repair.

7) Noted deterioration to the path and/or patio that will need repair. Contact appropriate contractor for correction.

8) Noted damage or deterioration to the fence and / or gate that needs repair.

9) The grading appears to be pitched toward the house or is level in one or more locations. This may lead to water in the basement, crawlspace, and/or foundation areas. Soil and pavement should always be pitched AWAY from house to prevent water penetration. Monitor any areas of the basement where the grading is level or pitched against house for possible water penetration. Optimally slope should fall away from all sides of the foundation at a minimum rate of 1/2 inch per foot, extending at least 10 feet away from the building. Make sure gutters are clean and working properly, extensions should be in place on downspouts so water drains away from the house foundation. Have landscape contractor change the pitch at areas so water flows away from the structure as needed.

10) Soil is in contact with or less than 6" from siding and/or trim. Recommend grading soil so there's at least 6" of space between the siding and trim and the soil below. This will help prevent insect infestation and deterioration of the siding and make it easier to detect termites if present.

11) Noted deterioration at the retaining walls - loose or broken pieces. Have appropriate contractor repair as needed.

12) Recommend covering openings at window wells, installing a cover will keep the water out and help keep basement / crawl space dry. Will also help with safety, a cover keeps animals and people from falling in and possibly getting hurt.

13) Noted holes or depressions at the exterior that should be filled .

14) Vegetation (trees, shrubs and/or vines) are too close to or are in contact with building exterior. Recommend pruning or removing vegetation as necessary so there's at least a one foot gap between all vegetation and the building exterior. This gap should exist to allow exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and to eliminate pathways to the structure for wood destroying insects. If present tree limbs should be pruned so that they do not overhang or touch the house. Falling limbs will damage the roof while falling leaves clog the gutters and may cause water to fall close to the foundation and seep into the basement area.

One or more large trees are close to the home. Contact tree contractor for evaluation. Remove or prune as needed.

What appear to be dead or dying trees / branches noted on or near property. Contact tree contractor for correction. Remove any dead trees and / or branches to prevent damage to the home.

15) Need to caulk or seal gaps at trim / siding to prevent insect, rodent, air, and water penetration to the home.

16) Screen / storm doors were not noted on all of the exterior doors - add as needed.

Screen(s) for sliding glass or french door(s) missing, add or replace as needed.

Some of the screen door locking latches were not operational at the time of inspection.

17) The finish on the porch(s) and / or railings is worn or deteriorated. Recommend cleaning and repainting / re-staining.

18) One or more outside faucets have missing or broken handles. Needs correction.

19) Underground sprinkler system noted - not operated or included as part of this home inspection. It will need to be winterized (drained) each winter to keep pipes from breaking or cracking. Contact landscaping company for evaluation, advice and service.

20) Doggie door gasket is loose or deteriorated, needs replacement.

21) Evaluation of the pool and any related equipment is not a part of the home inspection. Highly recommend separate inspection of the pool, surrounding area, fencing, gates, and all associated equipment by pool contractor for safety. Also recommend reviewing service records.

22) Noted pool, pond, or water on or near the property, possible hazard to small children. Make sure kids are supervised if playing in this area.

23) Noted cracks, efflorescence, damaged crowns, missing brick, or other defects in the chimneys. Contact chimney contractor or mason for further evaluation, make all repairs as needed.

24) Recommend you talk to the roofing company that recently installed the wood roof, find out if there is a warranty on the roof materials and installation and if that warranty is transferable to you as the new owners.

Noted the following defects on the roof. Make sure a permit was issued by Town of Weston for the work:
*Wood shingles are butted tightly together in areas
*”Exposure” on shingles may be greater than manufacturer recommendations in areas (I believe 5.5 inches is called for).
*Nails exposed at flashing
*Some towns require rake trim installed on wood roofs, recommend checking with the Weston Building Department.
*When the roof was replaced the original copper flashing was kept. Normally we replace this when we replace the roof.

Repair as needed.

25) Noted stains on gutters and / or home which may indicate blockage, that the system is not large enough to handle the rainwater, or that the gutters need adjustment to direct rainwater to the downspouts. Have contractor repair as needed. Add kickout flashing as needed to keep water in gutters and downspouts and off the house siding.

26) Noted leaves or debris in gutters, should be cleaned to allow system to function properly. If gutters overflow it can lead to water in the basement.

27) Noted roof drip at front exterior, water is puddling here. Correct as needed.

28) Noted gutter downspout(s) from the main or higher roof draining to a lower roof. High volume of water will discharge here, may overwhelm the lower gutters or cause damage to surrounding building materials if it does not drain properly. Need to monitor during a heavy rain, correct as needed.

29) The garage-house door poses a fire risk because it's not of solid-core construction (doggie door cut into door). Recommend having a qualified contractor replace this door with a fire-rated door.

Garage-house door isn't auto-closing. Recommend installing hinges with springs or an automatic door closing device so door closes and latches automatically to prevent vehicle fumes or fire from entering building.

30) The left, center and/or right garage vehicle door(s) will not "auto-reverse", or requires too much force to reverse. The door should reverse relatively easily when closing and when it strikes something. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. Recommend having a qualified garage door contractor evaluate and repair as necessary.

31) Signs of water penetration in the garage exist. Correct grading, drainage and/or weather stripping as needed. Repair or replace building materials as needed.

32) Recommend lubricating / adjusting garage door(s), rollers, springs, pulleys, etc. for proper operation.

33) Observed water stains or other signs of moisture in the basement indicating water penetration or a leak at some time. Monitor this area for further water intrusion, make sure soil is graded away from house around the perimeter and that the gutters are properly sized and working correctly. Repair, install, or improve underground footing and/or curtain drains as needed. If area still continues to take on water consider adding a sump pump and/or have a waterproofing contractor evaluate the area and make any needed repairs. Keep stored items off the floor until the area stays dry and any possible water penetration is corrected to prevent water damage.

Homeowners need to maintain grading, gutters and downspouts to keep their basements dry. All gutters on a home will need periodic maintenance (cleaning) at least yearly. Clogged gutters will cause water penetration to a basement. Check grading yearly, surface water should flow away from the home. If gutter downspouts discharge water to the surface it must be directed away from the home.

34) Observed rust at basement window(s), needs repair or replacement.

35) Low headroom noted in basement, should be corrected if possible. Recommend having a minimum 6'8" of clearance.

36) Dark room fan hummed but was not operational at the time of inspection. Vent hood at right side exterior corroded and needs replacement.

37) Some cracks and deterioration present in foundation. Recommend sealing them to prevent water and insect infiltration. Monitor for any further deterioration / movement and correct as needed.

38) Cracks noted in basement floor, repair as needed.

39) Evidence of rodent infiltration is visible in the form of rodent feces, traps, poison and/or burrow holes in insulation. Recommend using traps in the future to prevent rodents from dying in inaccessible areas. The clients may want to consult with a professional exterminator.

If rodents are in this area then they have access to all other areas of the home.

40) Locking latch on Bilco basement door not operational, lubricate or repair as needed.

Rust noted on the basement Bilco door. Paint or repair as needed.

41) Ground Fault Circuit interrupt (GFCI) electrical outlets not functioning at rear exterior and/or tennis court, needs to be repaired for safety. These outlets provide a measure of shock protection in wet or damp areas. Outlet(s) may be broken, circuit breaker may be off, or outlet(s) may be controlled by a switch in an area not seen that has been turned off. Recommend further evaluation, have electrician make any repairs as needed.

42) Noted open gaps inside the subpanel cover on the second floor that should be closed off for safety.

43) Noted extension cords / adapters in use at rear exterior. Adding an electrical outlet here would be safer than using an extension cord, which are normally considered a temporary solution. Have electrician replace with permanent wiring or add additional electrical outlets as needed.

44) I see what looks like an above ground plastic electrical conduit in the rear yard, and some exposed Romax wire right next to the tennis and closure. Recommend correction so that conduit and wires are underground.

45) Noted electrical equipment relating to a generator. Recommend electrician evaluate before use. Do not operate unless properly installed safety equipment (like a transfer switch) is in place and it has been evaluated by an electrician for safety.

Generators normally need servicing on a yearly basis (oil change, battery charging). Ask sellers for verification that this has been done in the past. Have the generator serviced as needed.

Generator shows “OVER SPEED” red light indicator, repair as needed.

No date code found on generator but it is rusting and appears to be original to the build of the house. Replace as needed.

46) Hot water heater appears to be at the end of its lifespan, recommend you replace it. Contact licensed plumber or heating contractor for replacement.

47) Noted gas hot water heater with no recent record of maintenance. Recommend having a heating contractor or plumber clean and tune now and once every two years in the future.

48) Noted water stains at or around the hot water heater. Equipment may have leaked at one time. Need to monitor for any water here, make any repairs as needed.

No water or leaks visible at the time of inspection.

49) Dry leaks, corrosion, and / or rust was noted on the plumbing valves, supply, and/or waste pipes. Sections may need to be repaired or replaced in the future. Monitor for any leaks or further deterioration, replace as needed.

If the home is supplied by well water it is always advisable to have a "basic profile" water sample taken and analyzed by a lab. This will provide information about the water supply that could affect the plumbing pipes. For example, if the water is found to be low in pH (acidic) that would corrode copper and galvanized steel (stains the pipes and fittings blue / green), which leads to leaks. You can then treat the well water accordingly to protect the piping.

Most or all of the plumbing supply valves are not labeled, should be corrected.

Older water supply valves noted in the home, may not work when needed (they can corrode and freeze open or shut, leak when operated). Replace as needed.

50) Well cap is an older version, recommend upgrading to a new sanitary cap. It will do a better job of keeping debris out of the well.

51) Kitchen sink sprayer does not work correctly and needs repair.

52) Noted a garbage disposal connected to the kitchen sink, no label noted stating it is compatible with a septic system. Disposals are not normally used on a house with a septic tank, could damage the septic system. Recommend you remove or discontinue using the disposal.

53) Washing machine is installed on, adjacent to, or over finished living space and no catch-pan or drain is visible. If there is no drain or pan I recommend installing a catch pan (and drain, if possible) to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces if the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained.

54) Corroded water supply piping under the dark room sink needs replacement.

55) Water treatment / filter system(s) older, budget for replacement now. Unit(s) could fail at any time.

56) I always recommend having dryer vents cleaned before use for safety.

57) Real estate listing states that this home is supplied with water from a private well. The State of Connecticut recommends having your well water tested for bacteria, metals, minerals, fluoride, lead, arsenic, voc's, uranium, and radon by a qualified lab. Contact local health department for advice on any other contaminants that you may want to test for. Go to https://portal.ct.gov/-/media/Departments-and-Agencies/DPH/dph/environmental_health/private_wells/Publications/01301724aPWTestingShortVSpdf.pdf?la=en for more info.

Recommend having septic system inspected by a septic contractor. Have it pumped as needed.

58) Unable to determine age of the well pump(s).

59) Any house that uses well water should have the water tested before purchase and on a yearly basis. Any filtering or water treatment equipment needs to be monitored and maintained - water softeners will run out of salt causing water to become hard, carbon filters will wear out and may cause radon in water levels to climb, sediment filters will clog causing water pressure to drop, etc.

It is always recommended to contact your local well or water treatment contractor for an evaluation of your system. Many times their contact info is already posted on the well equipment. This way you can set up a service or maintenance schedule that will keep your equipment running smoothly, add or order any filters as needed, and have the system explained to you so you are familiar with its operation (for example, softeners have a backwash timer that will need to be set in order for the system to operate efficiently).

Unfortunately it has been customary for well and treatment companies not to label most tanks and filters. Their use or function may or may not be apparent to the inspector. Any equipment that is not labeled or marked should be by the local contractor, with its function and periodic maintenance explained at this time.

60) Noted staining on the waste pipe under the kitchen sink. All dry at time of inspection. Monitor for any leaks, repair as needed.

61) Noted water stains at or around the well equipment. Equipment may have leaked at one time. Need to monitor for any water here, make any repairs as needed.

No water or leaks visible at the time of inspection.

62) Unknown with the pipe is for, as seen at the right rear corner of the basement. Possibly to add water to the pond. Ask sellers for guidance.

63) Heating and/or cooling ducts not insulated. Recommend correction.

64) Noted one or more condensate drain pipes terminating into septic waste / vent pipes. This is not good practice. Minerals in the water may disturb the balance of the septic system. Have a plumbing / heating contractor or septic contractor evaluate and make any corrections as needed.

Best practice calls for a vacuum break or "air gap" when an appliance drains into the waste system. This prevents possible siphonage / back flow of waste water or contaminents into a clean system. Recommend adding an air gap here at the connection between the waste line and the HVAC condensate drain.

65) Noted water droplets on the vent pipe of one of the basement heating units. Needs further evaluation and repair.

66) The estimated useful life for air conditioning cooling compressors / condensers averages 10-15 years depending on the manufacturer of the unit, placement of the unit at the exterior (exposure to sun and limited air flow can make it work harder), and frequency or lack of maintenance. Four units appear to have exceeded this age. Replace as needed.

67) The estimated useful life for cooling evaporator units is 12 to 15 years and varies due to many factors (maintenance, environment [moist crawl space or an attic with bad ventilation will shorten life span], manufacturer, etc.) At least four units appear to be at this age or older. Monitor for any problems, repair or replace as needed.

68) The estimate life span for most furnaces is 12 to 15 years. Three units appear to have exceeded this age and may need replacing at any time.

69) Last service date of this heating system is more than two years ago or is unable to be determined. Recommend asking seller when it was last serviced. If unable to determine or if more than two years ago, recommend that this system be inspected, cleaned, serviced and repaired if necessary by a qualified heating and cooling technician. Recommend that this servicing be made every two years in the future.

70) Duct tape noted on heating / cooling ducts. Ducts may come loose. This is not the right type of tape to use here, it dries out and comes apart. Recommend replacing with foil tape.

71) You should replace the media filters inside the HVAC humidifiers in the basement when you move in.

72) The insulation on the piping for the central cooling condenser (exterior) is deteriorated, damaged, or missing. Should be corrected.

73) Noted water stains around the attic air handlers or in the pan under the attic air handlers. Possible leak here. Need to monitor for any leaks, repair as needed.

No water visible on day of inspection, leaks may be older and repaired or still active.

74) Creosote is visible at the family room and dining room fireplaces. Recommend cleaning, inspection and repairs if necessary by a qualified chimney service contractor.

75) One or more exhaust fans appears to be inoperable. Recommend having a qualified, licensed electrician evaluate and repair to prevent excessive moisture accumulation.

76) Handle missing from bathroom vanity, add as needed.

77) I did not observe a way to operate the steam shower, no steam noted, add or repair as needed.

78) Leaks were noted at the shower head. Needs adjustment or repair.

79) Toilet appears to "run" (water flowing) for a prolonged period of time. Have a plumber adjust and correct to conserve water.

80) Leaks were noted at the shower head. Needs adjustment or repair.

81) Tub stopper missing or not working correctly, needs correction.

82) The diverter valve on the shower / tub faucet is not working correctly. This controls the flow of water to either the shower or the tub as needed. Recommend having a qualified plumbing contractor repair or replace the tub faucet/shower diverter valve.

83) One or more exhaust fans appears to be inoperable. Recommend having a qualified, licensed electrician evaluate and repair to prevent excessive moisture accumulation.

84) Noted rust and/or corrosion under the bathroom sink, should be repaired before the pipes start to leak..

85) Leaks were noted at the shower head. Needs adjustment or repair.

86) Counter-balances (holds windows in place) on some windows (kitchen dining area) are not working and need repair for safety. When raised windows could slide down unexpectedly, causing injury.

87) The wine refrigerator in the Butler’s pantry was not operational at the time of inspection.

88) Screen(s) missing from windows, correct as needed.

89) Interior ceilings, walls, trim, etc. will need some cosmetic work (cracks, nail pops, paint, peeling wallpaper, small holes, missing trim, or the like). Interiors may need painting when you move in. Once the paintings or pictures are removed from walls you'll see outlines.

Noted some lights that did not light when the switch was flipped or some switches where the use could not be ascertained. This is common, the switch may actually control an outlet or some other device not seen by the inspector. Bulbs may be burnt-out. If not, switches or wiring may need repair.

90) Security system noted in home, it was not tested and is not part of this inspection report. Contact the alarm company before moving in to test the system (especially smoke and carbon monoxide detectors), repair as needed. Have any codes changed the day you move in.

Any smoke / carbon monoxide detectors in the home were not tested, they may be hooked into the alarm system for the house. Have the alarm company test (and repair if needed) any and all detectors BEFORE sleeping in the house.

When you move in make sure that....
There is a smoke detector in each bedroom.
There is a smoke detector in every hallway.
There is at least one carbon monoxide detector on each floor.

91) While the amount of insulation found in the attic may have been sufficient when the home was built most experts now agree that more insulation here would result in added energy savings. The [url=https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table%5D%5D]Department of Energy[/url] recommends R-38 to R-60 insulation for the attic in this part of the country. Recommend adding more insulation and / or vapor barriers to the area as needed to increase energy efficiency, reduce air flow, block moisture and help prevent ice dams on the roof. Go to https://www.owenscorning.com/ for recommendations and advice.

No insulation or weatherstripping is installed on the attic access door / hatch. Recommend installing insulation and weatherstripping here for better energy efficiency and help prevent mold / mildew in the attic.

Insulation / vapor barrier is missing, fallen, damaged, or uneven in areas. Recommend fixing and installing additional insulation where necessary. Block all air gaps between the attic and the living areas for maximum energy efficiency and to help prevent ice dams on the roof and help prevent mold / mildew in the attic.

92) Steps in attic are missing a middle stringer, lots of flex here. Needs correction.

93) Water stains noted in the attic. Leaks may be active or previously repaired, no way to tell without observation during a rain. Recommend you have a roofer evaluate for leaks, make any repairs as needed. At a minimum you should go in the attic during a rain to check for any active leaks so they can be repaired promptly.