1) The client should be aware that a break-in period occurs during the first year or two after a building is constructed. Some amount of settlement and shrinkage is inevitable as temperature and humidity varies during the seasons. Systems may need adjustment or repair after experiencing constant, prolonged and/or heavy usage. Overall performance of the building exterior has not yet been tested by a wide variety of weather conditions.

Also, it is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all permits have been approved or signed off. Consult with the builder and/or municipality to determine if all necessary permits have been approved.

2) Significant amounts of standing water or evidence of past accumulated water were found at one or more locations in the yard or landscaped areas, and no drain was visible. If evidence of past water was found (e.g. silt accumulation or staining), monitor these areas in the future during periods of heavy rain. If standing water exists, recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary. For example, installing one or more drains, or grading soil.

3) The soil or grading sloped down towards building perimeters in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around building foundations or underneath buildings. It is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from buildings with a slope of at least 1 inch per horizontal foot for at least 6 feet out from buildings.

4) It appeared that the exterior foundation walls did not have a waterproof protective coating on them. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary.

5) Water was found at one or more locations in the crawl space. Water from crawl spaces can evaporate and enter the structure above causing high levels of moisture in the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. While a minor amount of seasonal water is commonly found in crawl spaces, significant amounts should not be present.

Rain runoff is the most common cause of wet crawl spaces, but water can come from other sources such as groundwater or underground springs. Recommend that a qualified person correct any issues related to outside perimeter grading and/or roof drainage (see any other comments about this in this report). If standing water persists, then recommend that a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues evaluate and repair as necessary. Typically such repairs include:

• Repairing, installing or improving underground footing and/or curtain drains
• Applying waterproof coatings to foundation walls
• Digging trenches in the crawl space to collect or divert water
• Installing sump pumps

6) The vapor barrier in some areas of the crawl space was loose or askew and substandard. Soil was exposed as a result and will allow water from the soil to evaporate up into the structure. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. A 6 mil black plastic sheet should be placed over all exposed soil with seams overlapped to 24 inches, and not in contact with any wood structural components. The sheeting should be held in place with bricks or stones, not wood. Recommend that a qualified person replace or repair the vapor barrier where necessary and per standard building practices.

7) Cellulose material such as scrap wood was found in the crawl space. This is a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Recommend removing all cellulose-based debris or stored items.

8) One or more downspouts terminated above a roof surface, and rainwater from the downspouts washes over the roof surface below. This is a common configuration, but in some cases large quantities of rainwater can damage shingles by removing granules and reduce the life of the roof surface. Consider installing extensions to route the rainwater directly to the closest gutter below to prevent such damage.

9) The roof structure had no visible venting. This can result in high attic and roof surface temperatures, reduce the life of the roof covering materials, and/or increase cooling costs. High levels of moisture are also likely to accumulate in the roof structure or attic, and can be a conducive condition for wood-destroying organisms. Standard building practices require one free square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic space, and that vents be evenly distributed between the lowest points of the roof structure and the highest points to promote air circulation. Often this means that both soffit vents and ridge or gable end vents are installed. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and install vents per standard building practices.

11) The self-closing device on the door between the garage and the house didn't close and latch the door. These devices are installed to keep the door closed to prevent possible fire and fumes from the garage from spreading to the house. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

12) The door between the garage and the house didn't self-latch when closed via the self-closing device because of damage or deterioration to the door hardware. House to garage doors prevent fire and fumes from spreading from the garage to the house. Self-closing devices keep the door closed for this purpose. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

15) No thermal expansion tank was installed at the water heater, and the plumbing system may be "closed" based on the inspector's observation of a pressure-reducing valve installed in this system. Some pressure-reducing valves have an integrated bypass check valve that allows water under high pressure from thermal expansion to flow back to the supply main. However, the inspector was unable to determine if the pressure-reducing valve in this system was equipped with such a bypass check valve. If none is present then the system is "closed," and an expansion tank should be installed to allow room for water in the system to expand. Without one, the water heater's temperature-pressure relief valve can leak or become damaged, or toilets can "run" due to excess pressure overcoming the fill valve. Recommend that a qualified plumber evaluate further and install an expansion tank per standard building practices if necessary.

16) The water heater was installed in an unheated space on a concrete floor and was not resting on an insulated pad. The bottom of the casing is likely to rust, and energy efficiency may be reduced. Recommend installing an insulated pad under the water heater.

18) Drywall dust, and construction debris such as drywall dust and/or sawdust was found behind or below heating or cooling air supply registers. Drywall dust in particular can reduce the life of heating and cooling equipment if left to circulate. At a minimum, recommend vacuuming ducts at each register. Consider having a qualified contractor clean the ducts.

19) Recommend replacing or washing HVAC filters upon taking occupancy depending on the type of filters installed. Regardless of the type, recommend checking filters monthly in the future and replacing or washing them as necessary. How frequently they need replacing or washing depends on the type and quality of the filter, how the system is configured (e.g. always on vs. "Auto"), and on environmental factors (e.g. pets, smoking, frequency of house cleaning, number of occupants, the season).

21) The metal water heater chimney extended higher than 5 feet above the roof surface, and supports for the flue were missing and/or substandard. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of the flue pipe moving and possibly being damaged or becoming loose. Surrounding flashing, roof sheathing and/or roof surface materials may also be overstressed during chimney movement. Recommend that a qualified person install bracing per standard building practices.

22) The electric receptacle for the fireplace was lying loose. A qualified electrician should install as necessary and according to standard building practices.

24) The refrigerator door handle was loose. Recommend that a qualified person repair or replace as necessary.

26) A significant amount of water came out of the bathtub spout when the shower at location B was turned on. The diverter valve is likely defective, or may be encrusted with mineral deposits. Water will be wasted as a result. Recommend that a qualified plumber repair or replace components as necessary.

27) Rubber water supply hoses installed at the clothes washer are prone to bursting when deteriorated, which can result in flooding and significant water damage. Recommend upgrading to braided, stainless steel hoses.

28) Handrails at one or more flights of stairs were loose. This is a safety hazard. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary.

29) Squeaking or creaking noises occur when walking on one or more sections of flooring in the kitchen and TV room. This is usually caused by substandard construction practices where the sub-floor decking is not adequately fastened to the framing below. For example, not enough glue was used and/or nails were used rather than screws. In most cases, this is only an annoyance rather than a structural problem. Various solutions such as Squeeeeek No More and Counter Snap fasteners exist to correct this. Repairs to eliminate the squeaks or creaks may be more or less difficult depending on the floor covering and the access to the underside of the sub-floor. Recommend that a qualified contractor evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=squeaky+f