Summary Page
| Home Inspection Report | |
| Client(s): | Ima Hombeier |
| Property address: | 123 Wysteria Ln Southwest, WI 53800 and East Central, IA 52000 |
| Inspection date: | 12/31/2010 |
Member in Good Standing of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI)
Wisconsin Home Inspector License No. 1744-106, expiration date 12/14/2012.
This report is the exclusive property of All Buildings Inspection LLC and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
This home inspection report includes an inspection of, and report on, all of the following items that are present on the property at the time of the home inspection. This in accordance with Standards of Practice of the Wisconsin Department of Regulation and Licensing Chapter 134, and National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI). The report is intended only as a guide to help the property owner/buyer/seller make their own evaluation of the overall condition of the property. This report does not determine market value or marketability of a property, nor does it state whether a property should or should not be purchased.
The following summary lists those items which are deserving of your attention and consideration. If you want additional clarification on any noted items, please call All Buildings Inspection LLC at 608-732-0359. Thank you for choosing us for your home inspection needs.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
| Safety | Poses a safety risk | |
| Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing | |
| Repair/Maintain | Recommend repair and/or maintenance | |
| Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance | |
| Comment | For your information |
General information
1)
- Definitions of common terms in this report:
Satisfactory - Indicates the component is functionally consistent with its original purpose but may show signs of normal wear and tear and deterioration.
Marginal - Indicates the component will probably require repair or replacement anytime within 5 years.
Poor - indicates the component will need repair or replacement now or in the very near future.
Significant Issue - A system or component that is considered significantly deficient, inoperable or is unsafe.
Safety Hazard - Denotes a condition that is unsafe and in need of prompt attention.
2)
- Recommend that all repairs to the home's structure or grounds be performed by an experienced, qualified, insured (and licensed if required) tradesperson.
3)
- Some interior surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items, preventing a full evaluation of these areas.
4)
- This home was built before 1978, when laws were enacted in the US preventing the use of lead paint in residential structures. Lead paint may be present, and is a known safety hazard, especially to children but also to adults. The paint found in and around this structure appeared to be intact and and most likely encapsulated by more recent layers of paint that's not lead-based.
Additional information regarding lead paint and personal safety can be found on the web at www.epa.gov/lead
5)
- The level of insulation in the side walls cannot be determined through the normal scope of a home inspection. Insulation may or may not be present in the side walls. If desired, recommend consulting with a qualified insured insulation contractor to determine the level (if any) of insulation present, and to provide appropriate recommendations.
Grounds
6)
- The electric meter box is not properly secured to the wall, and the masts above and below the meter are also not secured to the wall. This has resulted in the meter box being kicked to the right as the service drop conductors pull on the top of the mast. If not corrected, the fittings connecting the masts to the meter box will fail, resulting in an electric short-out, service disconnection, and/or fire.
Recommend a qualified electrician evaluate and make necessary corrections as soon as possible.
Decks, porches, balconies, stoops, and steps
7)
- The rear stairwell leading down to the garage has two holes at the base of the retaining wall. These are probably intended to drain water out of the well. The outlet of the drain is not known. The drains may be clogged.
There is a probability that water flowing into the stairwell will not be handled adequately by the drain holes, and will enter the garage.
If this is problematic, recommend a qualifed contractor evaluate the stairwell and make recommendations for water control.
Interior Systems
8)
- A few of the window sashes in the home are in need of maintenance to the finish. This is normal maintenance, usually required every 5 - 10 years. The finish deteriorates from the effects of normal condensation and sunlight. Recommend lightly sanding and refinishing.
Such maintenance will prolong the life of the wood sashes and frames.
9)
- Mildew has formed on the edges of some windows. They are identified in upcoming sections. This mildew formation is due to normal condensation in the room.
Recommendations from the EPA and University of Minnesota Building Sciences department is to clean the affected areas with normal household detergent, and not to use bleach unless other mitigating circumstances dictate its use.
10)
- Some older single pane windows are in this home. The windows may feel cold and/or drafty.
Options for reducing heat loss through and around the windows include the following:
-) Sealing exterior seams around the windows, storm units, and trim with a good quality urethane based caulk.
-) Latching the window sashes toghether with the sash lock. If sash locks are missing, recommend installing them. If existing sash locks are in poor condition, recommend they be adjusted or replaced so the sashes fit snuggly together.
-) Adding a storm window unit on the exterior, with proper seals around the perimeter.
-) Adding weather seal material over the window during the heating seasons.
Consultation with qualified window and door contractors may result in additional recommendations.
Replacement of windows is recommended if unacceptable drafts and heat loss persist after corrective measures or if such measures are determined to be ineffective or inappropriate.
A note about window replacement and resultant enery savings:
An article on page 59 of the June 2008 issue of "The Journal of Light Construction" titled "A Close Look at Common Energy Claims" states the following:
"...installing all new double-pane low-e windows in a typical 2000-square-foot single story house that previously had single-pane units will result in annual energy savings of ... $340 (in northern climates). If the old windows had storms, the savings dropped to $70 per year. .... The most cost-effective window retrofit measure is the installation of low-e storms windows. Although many storm window supppliers are unfamiliar with the product, low-e storms can be ordered. Suitable glass with a pyrolitic (hard-coat) low-e coating is available from most glass ditributors. According to a recent study, the payback period for installing low-e storm windows on older houses in Chicago averaged just 4.3 years."
11)
- GFCI protected receptacles are recommended (required for new construction and remodels) when the receptacle is within 6 feet of a water source, and all areas where moisture may be present, such as exterior, garages, and wet basements.
"GFCI" stand for ground fault circuit interrupter. These receptacles have two buttons on the face, one for TEST and one for RESET. They are usually refered to simply as GFI's or GFI receptacles (or circuit breakers). A ground fault circuit interrupter is an inexpensive (around $10.00) electrical device that, if installed correctly in household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of burn and electric shock injuries each year.
The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks. Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the flow of electric current.
GFI's constantly monitor electricity flowing in the circuit, to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through the circuit differs by a small amount from that returning, the GFCI quickly switches off power to that circuit. The GFCI interrupts power in a fraction of a second, preventing a lethal dose of electricity. A small shock may result, but there would be no electrocution or serious shock injury.
GFI receptacles and circuit breakers do have a history of failure. It is important to test them once a month. To do so, simply depress the TEST button. Doing so should shut off electric current to the outlet (if not, have the device replaced immediately). Then depress the RESET button. Electric current should be restored right away (if not, have the device replaced immediately).
GFI's are frequently installed improperly. If the TEST and/or RESET buttons do not work properly, improper connections may be the cause.
Recommend a qualifed electrician evaluate any faulty GFI devices and perform necessary corrections if required.
12)
- Styrofoam insulation is installed on some of the exterior walls in the basement (including the finished rooms). Styrofoam is highly flammable. Styrofoam does not allow fires to start easier, but it does allow flames to spread more quickly in the house, if a fire were to start.
The recommendation, for best personal safety, is to properly cover the styrofaom with a non-flammable finish material, such as sheetrock.
Lower level den
13)
- An electric receptacle and several light fixtures are located above the drop ceiling, out of sight. This is an improper practice, and has never been an approved practice by the National Electric Code (NEC). Electric junction and device boxes cannot be located behind finish materials.
Recommend a qualified electrician properly relocate all device boxes so they are properly accessible.
This recommendation is not urgent, but should be done within the next year so it is not overlooked.
Lower level bedroom
14)
- An insufficient number of smoke detectors are installed. Recommend installing additional smoke detectors as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom.
Also recommend installing a carbon monoxide detector on each level of the home. In halls connecting bedrooms, the recommendation is to place it within 21' of all bedroom doors.
Bath Room on main floor
15)
- The bathroom ceiling vent does not extend through the roof or side wall. The termination point is probably under the insulation in the attic. The bath vents are designed to remove moisture from the air in the bathroom to an exterior point. If the vents have no duct, or the duct terminates in the attic or soffit region (without a fixed exterior soffit vent), the introduction of moisture into the attic spaces can cause damage such as delamination of sheathing, mold, and/or mildew.
No such deterioration or mold was observed in this attic.
Recommend extending the vent duct to a point through the roof or side wall.
Basement
16)
- It is possible for water to enter any basement or crawl space at times.
Factors contributing to water in other-wise dry basements include unusual weather patterns, changes to storm drainage systems controled by the local city or municipality, tree roots doing damage to foundations, rain gutters leaking or overflowing, and drainage systems in the basement failing.
Sump pumps have a life expectancy of about 10 years. Battery backup systems for sump pumps have a history of failing when called upon.
Unusual weather can force water to follow unusual paths.
To reduce the potential for wet basements, recommend keeping the outside perimeter of the house free of shrubs, trees, and thick vegetation. Recommend all landscaping, stoops, and walkways be set so water is channeled away from the house. Recommend rain gutters and downspouts be cleaned semi-annually. Also recommend downspout extensions be placed so all roof water is diverted properly away from the building.
Heating
17)
- Recommend that this system be inspected, cleaned, serviced and repaired if necessary by a qualified heating and cooling technician annually in the future.
18)
- The furnace has no drain for combustion condensation. Furnaces manufactured in the last 20 years typically do require drainage of condensation which results from drawing as much heat from the combustion gasses as possible.
Recommend a qualified heating contractor evaluate this furnace to determine if a condensate drainage system is required, or if not.
If one is required, recommend one be properly added as soon as possible to prevent damage to the furnace.
19)
- The average life expectancy for furnaces is 15 - 20 years. The serial number on this furnace indicates it was manufactured in either 1983 or 2004. The appearance of the furnace indicates 2004 is more likely than 1983. However, appearances can be deceiving. Recommend asking seller for information regarding which date is correct.
Air conditioning
20)
- Outdoor air temperature below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, unable to operate and/or fully evaluate cooling system. Operation of air conditioners when outside temperatures are below 60, or when the previous night temperatures were below 60F, may result in irreparable damage to the compressor motor.
21)
- The condensate drain pipe for the air conditioner unit is coiled around the furnace cabinet. The condensate hose must be routed to a proper drain, such as the floor drain near the laundry area.
Also note the white verticle section of pipe. This is the overflow pipe, placed to prevent flooding of the furnace plenum should the drain become clogged. This pipe appears to extend too high. A service call just for this condition is not recommended, however, during the first annual furnace/ac checkup (prior to the next cooling season), ask the technician to evaluate the height of this pipe and cut it down if necessary.
Electric service
22)
- Correction in the main service panel recommended for safety reason:
14 awg conductors exist in the basement, and all fuses are rated for 20 amps. 14 guage (awg) conductors must have no more than 15 amp protection via fuses or circuit breakers.
If the circuit(s) with 14 awg conductors should carry more than 15 amps, the fuse(s) will not close the circuit, which could cause the conductors to overheat or arc, potentially resulting in a fire.
A number of appliance/light extension cords are used for permanent wiring in the basement walls and ceiling. Such cords may only be used in approved settings, not as permanent circuit conductors in concealed areas. Proper electric conductors are strongly recommended for permanent circuitry,
Recommend a qualified electrician evaluate and make necessary correction for safety as soon as possible.
23)
- Neutral and equipment ground conductors are combined at the sub-panel next to the furnace. This should only occur in the main service panel. When certain rare circumstances are present, this condition can result in severe electric shock. Neutral conductors should be attached to a "floating" neutral bar not bonded to the panel, while grounding conductors should be attached to a separate grounding bar bonded to the sub panel. Recommend an electrician evaluate and make necessary correction.
24)
- Several fuse block terminals in the panel have two conductors attached to them. This is a poor electrical practice. These terminals are designed for only one conductor.
When more than one conductor is in the terminal, it is very difficult to apply the correct amount of torque to the terminal screw. The conductors can loosen, resulting in arching and potentially a closed circuit, or in rare situations, a fire.
Recommend an electrician evaluate and make necessary correction.
Plumbing and Drain Waste Vent Systems
25)
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- The photo below shows the main water shut-off valves. In the event of a water leak, turn off either valve, then call a plumber.
Note, the valve in photo 9 leaks when turned. If it is bumped, or turning is required, it will leak. Recommend a plumber evaluate and make necessary corrections during a service call for other matters.
The other valve in photo 8 is satisfactory.
26)
- The average life expectancy for water heaters is about 15 years, more or less. This heater is near this age. It will likely require replacement within the next 5 years.
Garage
27)
- Repairs to the mortar joints have been done in the past. Repairs to mortar with caulk or expanding foam is a poor practice. Caulk and foam can trap moisture in, which will cause damage to the surrounding masonry units. For proper repairs, recommend removing all caulk and/or expanding foam, and inserting appropriately mixed and colored mortar.
Roof
28)
- The roof to wall flashing above the garage roof is not proper.
Step flashing may be present, but if so, it is placed behind the fibered wall sheathing. This placement will cause the fibered sheathing to wick water up and into the wall system. If step flashing is not present, or only partially present, water will enter into the wall system.
If left uncorrected, the wall system can start rotting in a short time. Prolonged moisture can allow molds to form, which does result in rotting wood.
Recommend a qualified roofer evaluate and make necessary corrections as soon as possible.
29)
- Tree branches are near the roof. Tree branches can shorten the life of the shingles by preventing rapid drying of the shingles, and by dropping branches, leaves, and other debris on the surface of the roof. Recommend pruning trees so they're at least 10 feet away from the roof, or don't overhang the roof.
30)
- The photo below shows the poor sealant around the electric mast. Once the masts and meter box are properly secured to the house wall, then recommend the sealant be properly re-applied to prevent water entering the roof assembly and attic.
31)
- The asphalt or fiberglass composition roof over the garage has two layers of shingles. When this roof is next replaced, recommend a complete "tear off", where all existing layers of roofing are removed before installing new roofing materials. With each layer of material added to a roof, the new roof material's lifespan is reduced.
Removing existing roofing materials will increase the cost of the next roof.
32)
- Ice dams can occur on almost any home in the winter if certain unique weather conditions are present.
Ice dams occur when snow accumulates on the roof to such an extent that it creates an insulating blanket over the roof and attic. They can also occur during minimal snowfall if the attic has insulation which is insufficient or improperly applied, and if there is insufficient ventilation in the attic. Proper ventilation can be blocked by heavy snow.
If the attic becomes warm enough to heat the roof deck to 32F or above, snow will melt. If the soffit regions (roof overhangs) are cooler than 32F, the melting snow will re-freeze over the soffits, creating ice, which will grow into a mass similar to a dam, blocking melted snow from running down the slope. This snow melt will then back up, usually finding its way into the home through the smallest openings in the roof structure.
There are ways to eliminate or greatly reduce ice dams. Methods include properly insulating and ventilating the attic, and removing snow from the roof as it accumulates. Snow removal should be performed with proper snow roof rakes, and always from the ground.
Recommendations include consulting with roofing and/or insulation contractors for more information and possible courses of action for the prevention of ice dams.