   |
3) The front entrance porch has developed significant cracks on the sides and top of the masonry. Most notably is a two inch wide stair-step crevice located on the right (east) side wall adjacent to where the stoop is attached to the house. While initial appearances and typicality suggest settlement, close examination precludes it. The courses of brick along the lower part of the wall are level and still aligned with those on the house. The upper section, on the other hand, has thrust upward to such a degree that it has contacted the railing. The most likely cause for this is ground expansion due to freezing, with the movement concentrated in the first area to break loose--analogous to a coke can in the freezer. Apparently, the water that drains down through the cracks between the porch and the house has no avenue of escape. It just collects in the dirt-filled enclosure formed by the stoop walls and the house foundation, filling it up like a pool. I suspect that there is no drain tile in this area because it was probably put in after the cement block was laid, and just snakes around the perimeter. This is just a hypothesis of course, and warrants further investigation by a qualified professional. At any rate, this is a significant issue that needs to be addressed because it has resulted in water intrusion in the basement. Specifically, as shown in the picture below, there are water stains on the floor trusses and attached sheathing; and a vertical crack in the foundation. Fortunately, since there is no sign of mold or wood rot, once the drainage issues are dealt with and this crack sealed, there should be no further problem. The stoop damage is obviously another matter, and needs to be handled by a competent mason.
|
 |
4) This home is clad with composition wood fiber siding. Many brands of this type of siding by different manufacturers are known to deteriorate and/or fail prematurely due to moisture penetration. Failure is typically visible in the form of swelling, cracking and delamination, especially at the bottom edges. Class action lawsuits have been filed or are being filed against most manufacturers of this material.
Some areas of siding on this structure show the symptoms described above and need replacement and/or maintenance, namely several locations adjacent to the back deck. Some manufacturers (Louisiana Pacific) recommend a repair process for this siding where affected areas are sealed with "Permanizer Plus", a flexible primer made by Pittsburgh Paint, followed by two coats of 100% acrylic latex paint. This sealant must be applied to the bottom edges using a brush. The face of the siding can be sprayed. The "Permanizer Plus" sealer isn't required for edges that aren't swollen, cracked or deteriorated, but the acrylic latex should still be brushed on these edges.
Unfortunately, this process will only work to protect those areas that are in the initial stages of decay. The damage shown below is irreparable and should be evaluated by a qualified contractor to determine the best course of action. Since replacement panels are not easily obtainable, he/she will most likely recommend residing that whole area of the house with a complimentary, yet durable replacement.
For more information, visit:
Pittsburgh Paints, PRIMERS -THE FOUNDATION FOR A TOP QUALITY JOB
Failing LP Siding Help Page
|
  |
5) Caulk/paint is missing or deteriorated in some areas of the window trim, especially where the vertical pieces rest on the sill. This should be diligently monitored, because if left unchecked can lead to the expensive replacement of entire windows and their associated framing, To avoid this Pandora's Box, caulk any visible gaps and paint all exposed wood as soon as the problem area is observed. As an example of what happens in the early stages of this insidious process, view the picture below. It is of a window on the back of the house and shows a rotten sill in need of immediate repair. Fortunately, this can be still be accomplished fairly easily by applying a wood stabilizer, followed by a two-part epoxy filler; then sanding, priming, and painting. A step-by-step guide can be found at the first web-site below.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/decks/oldporch/framing/rot_repair.htm
http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/fixing-decayed-wood.htm
For more information on caulking, visit The Ins and Outs of Caulking.
|
|
6) There is a significant crack located about a third of the way up the driveway. Although no differential settlement was observed, over time this is sure to occur unless rebar is in place (wire mesh is the standard). To slow the process and maximize the years left before a major repair is needed, I recommend having the crevice fixed by a qualified contractor. This will minimize water intrusion and help stave off the effects of freeze/thaw cycles and erosion. Unfortunately, simple, do-it-yourself techniques would most likely be ineffective at this point. One beneficial thing that can be done is to limit the number of heavy vehicles traversing the crack.
|
|
7) Because of the design of the roof and the placement of gutters and downspouts, water is not being effectively shed off the house during heavy rainfall. Specifically, the precipitation that falls on a large area of the roof is being funneled to a short section of gutter attached to the west side of the back porch, far exceeding its capacity to handle it. In fact, the flow rate is so overwhelming that the forces created have bent the metal in this area, causing a negative gutter slope, which further exacerbates the problem. The worst part is that all the water is cascading off the roof and onto your siding in a concentrated area, resulting in the deterioration mentioned earlier in the report. As a first shot at remedying this problem, I recommend installing a kick-out flashing in the circled areas below, and straightening and reinforcing the bent gutter. Also, I suggest the installation of a raised shield at the nearby corner of the gutter, adjacent to the downspout. Of course, this is such a significant problem that it warrants further evaluation by a gutter contractor with considerable design experience; not just an installer.
http://www.alcoa.com/alcoahomes/products/Rain/ByStyleResults.aspx?groupId=351&productCategory=5&productTypeId=185
http://www.ibacos.com/pubs/RoofFlashingGuidelines.pdf
|
|
8) Weepholes are missing in several sections of the water-table brick siding. These holes, spaced at least 33 inches o.c., are necessary to allow moisture to escape from between the bricks and the sheathing. A qualified contractor can add these by drilling 1/4" (3/16" minimum) holes into the mortar joints immediately above the flashing.
|
|
9) Front door threshold is warped and no longer preventing moisture from entering the house and conditioned air from leaving. Recommend replacement by qualified contractor who should apply flashing and caulk as necessary. Also, there is a small crack in the bottom left (from inside) stile of the door, that should be filled with like-colored caulk.
|
|
10) Rear entry door has extensive wood rot due to moisture penetration. The damage appears to be beyond repair and the entire door will most likely need to be replaced.
|
 |
11) A minor crack was found in the parking pad, and a noticeable difference in the texture and level of the concrete on either side was observed. Although defying logic, it appears that the pad was formed from two separate pours, resulting in a weak bond between the sections. Fortunately, no dissimilar settlement has occurred at this point; but the crack should still be filled to minimize the potential for future problems. This can be done with any of the products available at home centers that are specifically designed for this purpose.
|
 |
12) The handrail on the left (west) side of the front porch is loose, and needs to be resecured to the brick. Also, the railing is beginning to rust in several places, especially at the bottom-right-side near the first step. I recommend removing the oxidation with navel jelly or similar product, and then applying a rust-inhibitive primer and paint.
|
|
13) A piece of 1x2 siding trim is pulling away from the house due to warpage. Recommend resecuring with countersunk screws (pre-drilling first) and then filling/finishing the holes.
|
|
14) Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Although aesthetically pleasing, vines can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Also, it is inevitable that the attachment roots will penetrate your mortar and eventually brake it apart, allowing an avenue for moisture/insect entry. Accordingly, all vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior. As a bare minimum, the vines should be removed from any wood surfaces they contact, such as the garage shutters and soffit area shown.
|
|
15) One of the spotlights on the corner of the garage nearest to the front entrance is missing its bulbs.
|
|
16) A wasp nest was found in the soffit area on the right(east) side of the house. Remove as desired.
|
|
17) Stone-veneered chimney on front of house has a vertical crack that appears to extend from the roof to the cap. This has provided an entry point for water and lead to sheetrock damage in the bedroom below. Furthermore, it represents a possible (albeit remote) safety hazard because of the potential for large sections of stone shearing off and penetrating the interior of the house. Recommend repair by a qualified mason or replacement with another material.
|
|
18) Several shingles are damaged or missing and should be replaced. Although no leaks were observed during the attic inspection, water may penetrate in the future through the exposed and unprotected felt. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. Also, a few shingles have raised due to popped nails and need to be reseated.
|
|
19) Shingles are bent/cracked in several locations along the edge of the roof due to excessive overhang. While a two to three inch protrusion is very effective at keeping water off the eaves, it makes the shingles more susceptible to wind and impact damage; thus creating an avenue for water penetration, especially into the sheathing and fascia board. Recommend replacing the affected shingles and monitoring for future damage. As an added layer of protection, when the roof is reshingled, consider adding rake and drip-edge flashing (see links below).
http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/roofing/roof_4.htm
http://www.roofhelp.com/roof_repairs.htm
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/maintenance/reshingle/prep/dry.htm
|
|
20) Debris has accumulated in several places in the gutters. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and decay inducing organisms; since the overflowing water will drench the structure's exterior and collect around the foundation. Furthermore, moisture is much more likely to infiltrate the eaves, leading to decay of the fascia board, soffits, rafters, and roof sheathing. Accordingly, the gutters should be cleaned now and as necessary in the future.
|
 |
22) The receptacle in the lower attic at the top of the stairs is missing its cover plate. This is a shock hazard due to exposed hot wires, so a cover should be installed.
|
|
23) None of the overflow basins under the furnace/AC evaporator units are connected to a drain. Instead, it appears that they are monitored by a float-triggered switch connected to their respective thermostats. Presumably, each switch will cut off its associated air conditioner if the coils freeze up and produce excessive condensation. If this is indeed the case, I recommend testing for operational integrity.
|
|
24) Recessed "can" lights are installed in the ceiling below the attic. The inspector was unable to find a label or markings that indicated if these lights are designed to be in contact with insulation, and all of them are. This is a possible fire hazard. Further evaluation should be performed, by a qualified contractor if necessary, to determine if these lights are rated for contact with insulation. If they aren't, or if their rating can't be determined, insulation should be moved, and wells or barriers should be installed or repaired as necessary to keep the insulation away from these lights.
|
|
25) Several sections of the upper attic are approximately ten feet above the lower section, and no guardrail is installed.
|
|
26) As a result of the aforementioned crack in the stone and other possible flashing problems, wet wood (but no rot) was observed on the inside of the front chimney.
|
|
27) Neutral and equipment ground conductors are combined at the sub-panel. This should only occur where the service breaker is located, either outside (this case) or at the main panel. This is a safety hazard because it produces a second (unsheathed) path for the return current. Neutral conductors should be attached to a "floating" neutral bar not bonded to the panel, while grounding conductors should be attached to a separate grounding bar bonded to the sub panel. A qualified, licensed electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary to comply with local codes.
|
|
28) The inspector could not confirm the existence of a second ground source, which is required to supplement the one using water pipes. After following the ground wire (adjacent to the exterior service panel) into the soil for several inches, I didn't find the expected attachment to a 5/8ths inch thick, 8' long steel rod. Although this additional grounding source assuredly exists, I recommend further investigation to confirm the fact. As for the water pipe portion of the GES, a couple issues need to be noted and addressed. For this system to work at all times, it important that continuity be maintained by bonding all removable components with a jumper. Although there is one of these copper-wired connections spanning the water heater, there should also be one across the pressure regulator valve as well. Furthermore, for the water pipes to be used as a grounding source at all, the national code requires that the attachment point be within 5' of the pipe's entrance into the ground, which is not the case here. Of course, since code requirements vary with locality and change over time, a qualified, licensed electrician should make the final evaluation. Worth noting: The circuits in every room of the house were checked for miswiring and adequate grounding; and no problems whatsoever were detected.
|
|
29) One or more screws are missing from the main service panel cover and should be replaced. Because energized wiring may exist behind the holes with the missing screws, I recommend that an electrician replace these screws, or that care be taken to ensure that the new screws do not come in contact with wiring inside the panel when they are installed. Stock screws from the panel manufacturer should be used, or their blunt-tipped equivalent.
|
|
30) There are unsecured wires in the top right corner of the main panel. When the inspector removed the panel cover, these conductors touched the hot lead on the right and tripped off all the associated breakers (half the power in the house). Recommend that an electrician move them deeper into the box.
|
|
31) The temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed upwards. This drain line should be routed either down or horizontally. This is a safety hazard as water may not be able to flow through the drain line adequately when the valve releases due to accumulated water. Also, accumulated water may corrode the valve and prevent it from working. A qualified plumber should evaluate and repair so the drain line is routed down or horizontally, but not up. For more information, visit Water Heater Rescue - Down and Out
|
|
32) Based on the location of the water heaters and the visible venting, these units (and the adjacent furnace) may have an inadequate source of combustion and/or dilution air. All gas appliances require adequate ventilation, and the codes are very specific as to the source. When it comes from the interior of the house or basement, approximately 50 cubic feet per 1000 BTU's is needed. If the containment area doesn't meet this requirement, as is the case here, vents must be installed within the upper and lower 12" of the confined appliance space; connecting to an unconfined space meeting the volumetric parameters. The minimum size of each vent is 100 sq. inches, but the actual size is dictated by the total BTU's of the enclosed units. The apartment alone doesn't appear to provide enough fresh air for all three appliances, even if the other required vent was installed at the top of the wall. This is a potential safety hazard, and may result in combustion fumes, including increased levels of carbon monoxide, entering living spaces. A qualified HVAC contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary; such as installing ducting to exterior vents, or adding new grills leading to a larger unconfined area.
|
|
33) The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit (i.e.140), which is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. Consideration should be given to adjusting the thermostat so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit http://www.tap-water-burn.com/
|
|
34) Care should be taken when entering/exiting this utility room. The yellow gas tube connected to the first water heater projects into the walking path, making it susceptible to damage and the resultant release of flammable/explosive natural gas.
|
|
35) The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years, although some have lasted twice that long. These units are entering this age range and may need replacing at any time. However, an inspection of the burners and underside of the tank show no signs of imminent failure. The corrosion shown in the picture is typical for water heaters of this age, but it should be vacuumed out nonetheless. To further extend the life of these units, I recommend using a hose to drain the tanks of water until it no longer contains corrosive sediment. If one is really ambitious, have a plumber replace the sacrificial anode that extends down into the tank. Without it, corrosive elements are concentrated on the inner lining.
|
|
36) A water heater is installed near finished living spaces and has no catch pan and drain installed. Consider having a qualified contractor install one to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces if/when the water heater develops a leak, or is drained.
|
|
37) The outer covers for both water heater combustion chambers were found laying on the floor, and were reinstalled by the inspectors. These should remain in place at all times to help contain the flames and to minimize the risk of burns.
|
|
38) The ground floor furnace shows signs of corrosion on the top of the cabinet near the vents. This is due to condensation leaking out of the evaporator plenum and collecting on the metal enclosure. Although this is just superficial damage, I recommend sealing the source--the exit hole for the low-pressure copper evaporator line--so that the corrosion does not progress to crucial components. Noteworthy: A close inspection of the visible part of the heat exchanger showed no corrosion at all, a very positive prognosticator for a long service life.
|
|
39) The filter(s) for the heating/cooling system should be checked monthly and replaced or washed as necessary.
|
|
40) The outdoor air temperature was below 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the inspection. Because of this, the inspector was unable to operate and fully evaluate the cooling system. Also, the last service date was unable to be determined on any of these appliances. If it was more than one year ago, a qualified heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service the systems; and make repairs if necessary. This servicing should be performed annually in the future to keep the air conditioners running at peak efficiency.
|
|
41) The estimated useful life for air conditioning compressors is 8 to 15 years. The two main units are approaching this age range and may need replacing at any time (or they could last for twenty years). A visual inspection of the air conditioners showed them to be clean, unobstructed, approximately level, and without any obvious signs of damage.
|
|
42) The washing machine is installed in a finished living space and has no catch pan or drain underneath. These are not commonly installed, but they are recommended to prevent water damage when the washing machine leaks or overflows. Consider having a drain installed in the tile floor, or a plumbed catch pan placed under the washer. Coincidentally, the water supply lines for your washing machine are not rated for continuous pressure. Instead, the supply valves are supposed to be turned off between use. Since this is impractical, I recommend upgrading to metal-sheathed supply lines; which can be purchased economically at any home-improvement store. It's not if the black ones will fail, it's when.
|
|
43) No expansion tank was observed to be installed on this structure's water supply system. Expansion tanks are recommended when a property is on a public water supply system and the property's water system is "closed" via a pressure reducing valve (PRV), check valve, or backflow preventer. No room for expansion of water exists in this type of system. Thermal expansion occurs when water is heated during non-use periods. In a closed system with no provision for expansion, its effects may include:
Backflow into the water main
Damage to water heater connections, gas water heater flue tubes and pumps serving washers and dishwashers
Leaking faucets
"Weeping" of water through the water heater temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve
Noisy water hammer in the pipes.
Expansion tanks can eliminate these problems by giving water a place to go when thermal expansion occurs. When a water heating cycle ends, or when any fixture is opened within the system, the impact of thermal expansion is reduced, and water drains out of the expansion tank back into the system. Recommend further investigation to confirm its installation .
|
|
44) Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.
|
|
45) The bowed floor and cracked/missing tile grout is due to the structural issues in the crawlspace (addressed below). I wouldn't recommend correcting these items until a stable support structure can be secured.
|
|
47) The foundation footing supporting the wall between the pantry and the laundry room (as well as the rooms above) has been undermined several inches by what appears to be soil erosion. It is not clear what has caused this, since no flow channels are visible and there are no other apparent clues to the source of the water. Unfortunately, additional information cannot be gathered from the other side of the wall because that is where the garage slab is. Having said all that; there is another, more likely hypothesis for the cause of this problem, and it centers underground. I suspect that there was a void created by decaying organic matter that was filled by the soil above, resulting in this extreme localized settlement. Whatever the cause, the effect is apparent and significant. For a distance of about six feet, the bearing wall is unsupported by the concrete below. Instead, the end of the beam is resting on the adjacent, perpendicular foundation wall and settlement has resulted. Fortunately, this settlement has been minimized relative to the soil collapse, thus creating the gaps between the wall and its own foundation and between the footing and the ground. There has been enough movement however to be noticeable above. Specifically, this is probably the reason for the uneven floors in the laundry room and the bedroom above it. Obviously, this is a matter for a structural engineer to evaluate and for a foundation repair specialist to correct.
|
|
48) The main beam connecting the floor joists in the center of the crawlspace has inadequate support. Specifically, a girder consisting of 3-2x12 joists supporting two floors above should only span about six feet between properly sized and supported columns. In this case there are only two 2x4 T-braces to hold up the mid-section of a beam about 20-25 feet long. Furthermore, instead of being on footings, each of these braces is resting on a section of 2x12 board laid flat. Even if this was structurally adequate now, the braces will eventually rot out in spite of being pressure treated. On top of this, there is an unsupported splice in the center of the girder and an along-the-grain crack in one of the 2x12's. I recommend installing 6x6 (girder width) posts resting on concrete footings and spaced every six feet, with one each under the cracked joist and the splice point. Of course, as always, this assessment and advise should be corroborated by a structural engineer or other qualified professional.
|
|
49) Insulation has fallen down in two locations and needs to be reattached for moisture control and energy efficiency.
|
|
53) There is water damage to the sheetrock on the ceiling of the pantry, The source of the leak most likely originated in the Jack and Jill bathroom above, but this could not be confirmed. Investigation with a moisture meter yielded no signs of current dampness, but that might be because the leaking fixture hasn't been used in awhile. I recommend further investigation, and once the problem is fixed, repair of the ceiling.
|
|
54) Hardware such as hinges, latches or pulls are loose on one or more cabinets. Also, some of the doors are misaligned, warped, or exceedingly distressed. Repairs should be made and/or hardware should be replaced as required, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
|
|
55) A few windows are painted shut here and in other parts of the house. Care should be taken in braking them free so as not to compromise the seal between the glass panels. If this happens, the inert gas inside will escape, moisture will enter, the windows will fog up, and the entire sash will need to be replaced. Fortunately, none of the windows showed evidence of this during the inspection.
|
|
56) The wood floor area within the primary work triangle is showing excessive surface wear. Recommend localized refurbishment before incurring the expense of complete refinishing.
|
|
57) Water damage was observed in the master bathroom directly above the shower stall. An attic investigation was unproductive because the problem area is sandwiched between the ceiling and the roof, with only rafter space in between. Even so, it is most likely that the moisture problem is not due to a roof leak anyway, but is instead originating in the bathroom itself. Typically, when steam is produced during a shower, the part of it that penetrates the attic usually gets harmlessly whisked away by cross ventilation, which happens to be the case for the rest of the room. In that one area however, the humid air is getting trapped in the cramped space, condensing on the cold roof, and then dripping back down on the ceiling. The best way to remedy the situation is to increase the airflow through that section of the roof and to shower with the bathroom fan on. On the other hand, when the contractor makes the other repairs to the roof, have him/her check the entire ridgeline for broken shingles or nail penetrations. It is conceivable that a leak could originate up high and follow the beam all the way down before it drips off.
|
|
58) The base of the downspout in the Jack n' Jill bathtub is about a quarter of an inch away from the wall. The gap created is an avenue for water to get behind the tile and into the wall and floor below. In fact, this is a probable cause for the damage to the pantry ceiling. Recommend having a plumber close the gap by removing and reinstalling the spout so that it is flush with the tile. Trying to screw it on farther could cause damage to the pipe joints inside the wall, further exacerbating the problem.
|
|
59) Caulk is missing or deteriorated above one or more bathtubs, where the tub surround meets the tub. It should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to the wall structure. Grout is a poor substitute because of its brittleness and inflexibility. Tip: fill the tub with water before applying caulk, then drain it after the caulk dries; ensuring a better seal and minimizing the chance for recurrence of gap.
|
|
60) The sink drain in the powder room is covered with corrosion, indicating a leak in the seal above. Recommend evaluation and corrective measures be taken by knowledgeable do-it-yourselfer or qualified plumber.
|
|
61) The slate tile in the Master bath shower is missing some grout. Although it should be replaced for aesthetic reasons, and to restore the shower's first line of defense against water penetration, its not a critical repair. That is because there is a mortar bed underneath the tile and a shower liner underneath the mortar bed. Both are impervious to water. Anyway, if there are any doubts as to its integrity, have the shower basin evaluated by a plumber.
|
|
62) The inspector was unable to determine if ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection is installed for the jetted tub's electric supply, due to lack of access to the equipment below the tub. If no GFCI protection is installed, then this is a safety hazard because of the risk of shock. A qualified contractor and/or electrician should evaluate and install GFCI protection if none exists. If necessary, modifications should be made to allow access to the GFCI device for periodic evaluation and to reset it when it trips. Furthermore, that access should be large enough to permit removal/replacement of the pump if necessary.
|
|
63) The GFCI receptacles in all the bathrooms are on one circuit. This is acceptable, but since the only reset switch and obvious location is in the master bath, all the other GFCI receptacles should be labeled as such.
|
|
64) One or more smoke alarms are damaged, deteriorated and/or missing from their mounting brackets. Damaged and/or missing smoke alarms should be replaced as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
|
|
65) Cover plate is missing from the closet light switch in the room over the garage. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard that is easy to remedy.
|
|
66) One or more entry doors have deadbolts installed with no handle, and require a key to open them from both sides. This can be a safety hazard in the event of a fire when the key is not available. The door cannot be used as an exit then, causing entrapment. Recommend that key-only deadbolts should be replaced with the handled variety in rooms with no other adequate egress nearby.
|
|
67) A ceiling fixture is in the process of being installed in the office and hot wires have been left exposed. If there is an extended delay before the job is complete, recommend covering the wires with nuts to prevent shock.
|
|
68) There is extensive water damage to the ceiling of the master bedroom. This is obviously due to the aforementioned chimney problems and should be repaired after a leakproof roof can be assured. Also, caulking needs to be removed and reapplied to in an isolated area of the cove molding, as indicated in the picture below.
|
|
69) There are a few areas in and around the house where caulking needs to be reapplied.
|
|
70) The air supply registers is missing in the rear left bedroom on second floor. The air flow cannot be controlled as a result. Registers should be installed where missing.
|
|
71) A couple of the treads are loose in the stairway. Recommend securing them from underneath.
|
|
72) There is an elongated crack in the ceiling of the foyer. A reinforced repair should be made to prevent recurrence.
|
|
73) The left French door in the living room is very difficult to open. Recommend removal of it to shave the underside; application of paint to prevent water absorption; and then reinstallation.
|
