| Home Inspection Report | |
| Client(s): | ISNW Client |
| Property address: | Somewhere in Seattle Or Greater Eastside area |
| Inspection date: | 6/25/2011 |
This report is the exclusive property of Inspection Solutions NW and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
 | Safety | Poses a risk of injury or death |
 | Major Defect | Correction likely involves a significant expense |
 | Repair/Replace | Recommend repairing or replacing |
 | Caution/Important Report Info | Needs awareness, Client to ask questions if definition us unclear |
 | Minor Defect | Correction likely involves only a minor expense |
 | Maintain | Recommend ongoing maintenance |
 | Evaluate | Recommend evaluation by a specialist |
 | Monitor | Recommend monitoring in the future |
 | Serviceable | Item or component is in servicable condition |
 | Comment | For your information |
Wood Destroying Organism Concerns
Concerns relating to wood destroying organisms are shown as follows:
 | Infestation | Evidence of infestation of wood destroying insects or organisms (Live or dead insect bodies, fungal growth, etc.) |
 | Damage | Damage caused by wood destroying insects or organisms (Rot, carpenter ant galleries, etc.) |
 | Conducive conditions | Conditions conducive for wood destroying insects or organisms (Wood-soil contact, shrubs in contact with siding, roof or plumbing leaks, etc.) |
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.
Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp| General information | Return to table of contents |
This property has one or more fuel burning appliances, and no carbon monoxide alarms are visible. This is a safety hazard. Recommend installing one or more carbon monoxide alarms as necessary and as per the manufacturer's instructions. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html
Professional qualifications of workers: In most reports, I recommend that upgrades or repair work be performed by a "qualified person" or "qualified parties". I consider qualified parties, in the licensed trades and professions, to be those individuals who hold the necessary state or local licenses or permits to legally work in their field -- licensed electricians, licensed pest control applicators, licensed plumbers, licensed HVAC technicians, licensed engineers, licensed general contractors, licensed building architects, licensed landscape architects, etc. In instances where repair work may be legally done by an unlicensed party, it is my recommendation that the repair person be, based on past training, experience or expertise, "qualified" to complete the job at hand and to, at that time, also be capable of further evaluating the situation and making further recommendations and completing any related repairs or upgrades. Any work performed by licensed and/or qualified parties should include, as is required, obtaining permits from the state, the county or the city.
Form 17/Limitations: Form 17 is a required disclosure statement at all real estate transactions conducted in the State of Washington. Inspection Solutions NW encourages you to read Form 17, as it is frequently not provided to the home inspector. This crucial disclosure consists of about eighty questions pertaining to the home. By law, a seller is required to disclose on this form many details about the home and property, which may or may not be observable at the time of inspection. For example, the seller's disclosure could reveal hidden but known defects in materials or products used in construction of the home; well or water supply problems; known health or environmental concerns such as mold, underground fuel storage tanks, chemical pollutants, or a history of seasonal water, flooding, pest infestations or fire damage, etc.
Furnished home/general limitations: If this home is furnished/occupied, it may have numerous counter, under sink, closet, window, wall, floor, and/or ceiling surfaces that are obscured by personal effects, window coverings, rugs, carpets, collectibles, furniture and other items, limiting the inspection of some areas. Appliances and furniture are not moved. Belongings stored on window sills are not moved to operate windows. Significant storage or personal items, under sinks and cabinets, will not be moved to gain access. Insulation, when present in crawl space and attic areas, obstructs visibility. In general, areas that are blocked or not readily visible or accessible because of belongings, storage or objects are excluded from the inspection. A representative number of structural components are viewed, not every area. The high exterior locations at the home, such as siding, trim or soffit areas below eaves, due to safety and typical access issues, may be viewed from the ground and not from a ladder. High electrical receptacles, under eaves, may not be evaluated.
Structures built prior to 1979 may contain lead-based paint and/or asbestos in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is not included in this inspection. The client(s) should consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement contractors for this type of evaluation. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit these websites:| Site and Exterior | Return to table of contents |
The outdoor electric receptacle (now in the enclosed sun room) does not have ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified professional or electrician should repair/replace this receptacle and cover so that all outdoor receptacles within six feet six inches of ground level have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
 Photo 46 Non-GFCI receptacle in enclosed sun room (previously exterior of home)
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Extension cords are being used as permanent wiring in the back work shop, and the front motion light over the garage vehicle door. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring poses a fire and shock hazard, and is an indication that wiring is inadequate and should be updated. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure, resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, and sparks that could start a fire. Extension cords should be removed as necessary, or a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install additional circuits and/or electric receptacles.
 Photo 47 |
 Photo 65 |
 Photo 66 |
One crawl space vent is below and at grade with inadequate wells. This has lead to water entering and accumulating in the crawl space, and is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. This is a serious condition as it has already caused significant damage in the crawl space. The screen on this vent is also loose allowing animals such as vermin or pets to enter the crawl space and nest, die and/or leave feces and urine, this should also be corrected in the repair.
 Photo 17 |
The wall-mounted exterior light fixtures for the back patio have wiring that's subject to water intrusion due to caulk not being installed around the light fixture's back plate, and not located under an adequate eve or overhang. Caulk should be applied around the perimeter of back plates where missing. A gap should be left at the bottom for condensation to drain out.
 Photo 38 |
The front SW outside faucet is missing a backflow prevention device. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.
Soil or grade is in contact with or less than six inches from siding and/or trim at multiple locations around perimeter. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms, and will also lead to wood rot such as that at the garage vehicle entry door. Soil should be graded and/or removed as necessary so there are at least 3 but preferrably 6 inches of space between the siding and trim and the soil or grade below.
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 Photo 10 |
 Photo 40 Damaged siding from splashing water
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Two trip hazards were found in the sidewalk and/or patio sections in the rear NE corner due to cracks, settlement, tree root growth and/or heaving. The edges of the concrete in both places are uneven by more than 1" and should be repaired to avoid any injuries.
 Photo 24 |
 Photo 25 |
The fence on the N property line is damaged and/or deteriorated in several areas. Some of this is being caused by the growth of the larger tree near the fence line, and the remaining is due to rotted parts of the fence that are deteriorating away. A qualified individual should evaluate and make repairs or replace sections as necessary.
 Photo 44 |
 Photo 45 |
Moderate cracks and/or deterioration was found in one section of the brick veneer on the front of the home. It appears to be caused by a crack in the window sill above letting water in behind the brick. Although not a structural concern, it does need to be resealed with either caulking or morter and monitored every other year or so to make sure it stays that way.
 Photo 54 |
 Photo 9 |
An electrical conduit ran in mid air supplies power to the detached shed. This is a substandard method of support. It may result in damage to wires and/or connections and is a safety hazard for risk of shock and fire. this conduit needs to be supported differently and/or run using Schedule 40 PVC underground, a qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary..
 Photo 22 |
The drains on the back Patio appear to be clogged. Water may accumulate at the structure or in low spots as a result. This should be cleaned now, repair if necessary, and monitor at least annually.
 Photo 36 |
There is a gap in the foundation where the original crawl space foundation, and the slab foundation for part of the addition where the back bedroom meets the middle bedroom on the South wall. And a minor crack on the perimeter (1/8 inch or less) was found in the foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing to prevent water infiltration and monitoring them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including:
 Photo 31 |
 Photo 32 |
 Photo 33 Minor shrinkage crack
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Perimeter pavement/concrete slopes towards structure in the South driveway, and near the downspout at the SE corner. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms. Recommend having a qualified professional or contractor make repairs as necessary so perimeter pavement slopes down and away from the structure.
 Photo 30 |
Multiple downspouts have no extensions, or have extensions that are ineffective. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Repairs should be made as necessary, such as installing or repositioning splash blocks, 90 degree downspout fittings at the bottoms to direct water away from the house, or installing and/or repairing tie-ins to underground drain lines, so rain water is carried at least 6 feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.
 Photo 11 |
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 Photo 23 |
The small gutter along the atrium window off the kitchen was leaking during the inspection. It is not a standard sized gutter, it is not sloped properly, is leaking at each end cap, and is clogged and filled with debris causing the water to overeflow and drip down on the window flashing. A qualified contractor should replace or repair this gutter so that these conditions are removed.
 Photo 27 |
 Photo 37 |
 Photo 56 |
There are 3 visible crawlspace vents on the home, but only 1 of them is functioning. This restricts ventilation in the crawl space and may result in increased levels of moisture inside. The 2 vents not functioning are located in what is now the garage which used to be a car port when the home was originally built, and 1 of these has been fully abandoned and is used for the passage of plumbing lines into the structure.
2 or 3 soffit vent screens are blocked by cover boards. This can reduce air flow through the attic, reduce the life of the roof surface because of high temperatures, and/or increase the moisture content in the attic. Repairs should be made as necessary by removing the covers and installing additional vents around the perimeter where missing
 Photo 14 |
 Photo 16 |
Gaps exist at one or more openings around the exterior, such as those where outside faucets, and/or gas supply pipes penetrate the exterior, and where siding was installed short of the soffit line. Gaps should be sealed as necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and entry by vermin.
 Photo 7 |
 Photo 34 |
 Photo 39 |
 Photo 28 Hole in outer wall accessing interior of sun room
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Caulk has been applied between siding and the head flashing above several of the windows, and some have no head flashing at all. This gap should be left open rather than caulked to allow any water that accumulates behind the siding to drain out. Although the windows that are tight under the eves are not in direct exposure and should be fine, there are a few around the perimeter that are fully exposed and should be corrected. Also, there are 2-3 places where the vertical wood siding is separating and is in need of re-caulking and touch up paint.
 Photo 8 |
 Photo 12 |
 Photo 26 |
Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.
 Photo 6 |
A large tree is in contact with or is close to the roof edge(s) at the NE corner of the home. Damage to the roof may result, especially during high winds. Vegetation can also act as a conduit for wood destroying insects. Vegetation should be pruned back and/or removed as necessary to prevent damage and infestation by wood destroying insects.
 Photo 43 |
| Roof | Return to table of contents |
The counter flashing at the base of the chimney has been caulked w/roofing sealant instead of morter and is deteriorated. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary by removing defective sealant, and reinstalling counter flashing with either morter, or morter replacement type caulking compound. this should be done within the next year or two to prevent future damage.
 Photo 50 |
 Photo 53 |
Skylight on NW corner of glass section has evidence of seal failure due to condensation and exposed wood between the flashing and above the glass pane. This is a common failure point in older skylight installations. Although there is no sign of leaking into the internal structure at this time, it is likely that it will happen over the next few years. Recommend repairing the gap in the flashing, and the small flap in the PVC membrane flashing, and monitoring this skylight closely in near future to prevent damage due to water infultration.
 Photo 57 |
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Trees are overhanging roof at NE corner and are within 10 feet of roof vertically. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms since organic debris such as leaves or needles are more likely to accumulate on the roof surface. Accumulated debris may cause water to enter gaps in the roof surface and leak into attic and/or interior spaces. Trees should be pruned so they are at least 10 feet above roof, or don't overhang the roof.
Fan vent, main plumbing stack vent, and ridge vent locations on roof.
 Photo 48 Fan vent rusting, replace in near future to prevent water leaks in vent cover
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 Photo 49 Ridge vent
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| Garage | Return to table of contents |
The auto-reverse mechanism on the vehicle door opener is inoperable or requires too much force to activate. This was tested by placing a 2x4 laying flat under the door, which should trigger the safety mechanism per industry standards.
 Photo 61 |
Non-metallic sheathed wiring is routed in and out of both the main and sub electrical panels on the wall & ceiling joist surface so that it is subject to damage. The insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, rewire using conduit, or re-routing through wall cavities. In addition, the main service conductor conduit supplying the main panel from the meter base outside has a gap at the penetration through the garage wall that should be sealed.
 Photo 62 |
 Photo 78 |
The garage-house door isn't equipped with an automatic closing device such as sprung hinges. This door should close and latch automatically to prevent vehicle fumes from entering living spaces and/or to slow the spread of fire from the garage to living spaces. This door is also missing weather stripping. A qualified contractor should install automatic closing device(s) as necessary, and as per standard building practices, so this door closes and latches automatically.
 Photo 71 |
The 2 garage electric receptacles appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. One receptacle is also missing the cover plate. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all garage receptacles, except for one for use with a refrigerator or freezer, have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.
 Photo 63 |
 Photo 64 |
Dual 2x8 Support beam over garage ceiling (previously carport support beam) has been cut in half to accommodate the powered garage vehicle door opener. All thread bolts w/washers and nuts on each end have been drilled and attached through the cut beam ends and extended up into the newer attic space of the roof addition and bolted through a less substantial 4x6 Doug Fir beam that is laid via gravity and shims across the affected span. While the attempt to correct the situation was the right idea, the new upper support beam lesser in support capability and has no mechanical fasteners at the ends above the bearing walls at all. While this is not in danger of immediate collapse, it needs to be corrected. A 4x8 should be installed instead across the span, mechanically attached to the bearing walls with the appropriate brackets/fasteners, and the cut beam ends below should be jacked back up to level with block spacers to fill the gap voids where the bolts pass through to the upper beam. An industry professional or contractor should be consulted to make this repair.
 Photo 72 cut 2x8's
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 Photo 92 Spacer blocks should be added here before compressing bolts
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 Photo 93 Notice 2" gap between old carport roof and 4x6 added support leaving net 5 1/2" total beam height.
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The light fixture on the garage ceiling has a fully exposed bulb and should be in a covered housing. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire. Flammable stored items may come into contact with hot bulbs, and hot fragments from broken bulbs may fall on combustible materials. Standard building practices require garage lighting to use a fully enclosed incandescent fixture. Installing a compact fluorescent lamp in a lamp holder is not an acceptable practice. A qualified electrician should replace light fixtures as necessary and as per standard building practices.
 Photo 108 |
The weatherstrip around the exterior entry door is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified contractor if necessary.
 Photo 70 |
| Electric service | Return to table of contents |
3 wires in the main service panel are undersized for their overcurrent protection devices (circuit breakers or fuses). They are located on breakers 2,4, and 9. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
Neutral and equipment ground conductors are combined at the sub-panel. This should only occur in the main service panel, and is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Neutral conductors should be attached to a "floating" neutral bar not bonded to the panel, while grounding conductors should be attached to a separate grounding bar bonded to the sub panel. Also in sub-panel installations, the bonding screw in the main panel should be removed, located at top left neutral rail. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 77 |
 Photo 69 |
Neutral wires are doubled or bundled together on the neutral bus bar. This is unsafe due to the need to turn off multiple circuit breakers to work on any of the circuits using these wires. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 75 |
 Photo 76 |
The legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel cover is not properly labeled and is required for quick identification and access to the electrical circuits in the home during emergencies and reference. The absence of labeling indicates either additions or modifications to the electrical system without proper authority as it is a requirement of any final electrical inspection. Under WA State WAC/NEC, it is allowable for the registered home owner to add or make alterations to his/her own electrical system without using a contractor, however, the work still needs to be permitted and inspected to comply with the rule.| Attic | Return to table of contents |
The attic insulation has multiple issues to be addressed:
 Photo 88 Wood Fiber insulation - Compacted
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 Photo 90 Insulation removed...
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 Photo 101 loose and/or piled insulation
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Sections of electrical wiring that weren't terminated were found in the attic. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, cutting the wire to length and terminating the wire with wire nuts in a securely anchored, covered, properly sized junction box.
 Photo 87 |
 Photo 89 |
 Photo 98 |
Non IC (Insulation Contact) rated light can enclosures are installed and in contact with attic insulation. This is a safety concern as the cans can, with hi-wattage incandescent bulbs, create enough heat to scorch or even start the insulation and surrounding combustable materials on fire. One can pull the insulation back away from the cans with at least 3" clearance (which will leave "cold spots" in the insulation barrier to at least remove the fire hazzard) or to fix correctly remove the affected cans and replace them with IC rated can light enclosues designed to be in contact with the insulation, removing the possibility of user error. As with any technical repair in this report, a qualified individual should repair as necessary.
 Photo 99 |
 Photo 100 |
The fan vent for the rear bathroom is leaking and not of proper material for this use. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to increased moisture levels in the attic from the exhaust air. The fan vent duct needs to be replaced with an insulated 4" flex duct and secured at both the fan end and at the vent louver. A qualified professional should make permanent repairs as necessary and as per standard building practices, so all exhaust air is vented outside.
 Photo 102 |
New roof addition is missing adequate structural support. Rafter to ridge framing is lacking the support of either collar ties, or vertical supports along ridgeline. This is a structural concern as the framing in its current state applies excessive loads on the outer building walls in an outward direction and will lead to sagging rafters and possible rafter to ridge separation ending in roof failure or collapse. Vertical supports need to be installed at both ends of the ridge run at the hip intersection, and at any point at which the ridge support members come together at a seam. Collar ties or rafter jacks also need to be installed at every other bay (approximately every 4') between the vertical supports to prevent further sagging of the rafters and create an equalized load distribution system to the foundation footing(s) for the roof framing structure.
No insulation is installed over the attic access hatch. Recommend installing insulation above hatch for better energy efficiency.
No weatherstrip is installed around the attic access hatch. Weatherstrip should be installed around the hatch to prevent heated interior air from entering attic.
The area of the attic over the 3rd bedroom in the SE corner of one of the "addition" areas of the home was inaccessible due to lack of permanently installed walkways, or access through old rafters still remaining. This area was excluded from this inspection, but attempts should be made to create access when adding or repairing the overall attic insulation issue.
| Water heater | Return to table of contents |
The water heater flame is partially yellow rather than blue. This may be caused by scale on top of the burner, a dirty burner orifice, the flue being clogged, insufficient draw, and/or improper gas pressure. A qualified service technician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 81 Yellowing flame on tank burner, should be almost entirely blue.
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The water heater's seismic straps or struts are substandard (see picture 117 in line below). For example, they may allow significant movement or use improper fasteners. This is a potential safety hazard since movement can cause leaks in the gas supply lines or damage wiring. Leaks may also occur in water supply pipes. A qualified contractor should evaluate and either repair existing straps or install new straps or struts as necessary and as per standard building practices.
The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
 Photo 83 |
Gas heating appliances are located within the living space and are connected with a standard B-Vent exhaust flu. The use of B-Venting within a living space is a safety concern as they can allow carbon monoxide to leak into the domestic air supply of the home, especially when vent lines are aging and corrosion is present. To reduce the chance of toxic gasses leaking into the domestic living space, HVAC rated adhesive backed foil tape should be wrapped 360 degrees around all B-Vent seams and junctions within the vent run that are common with the living space. Typically the foil tape is approximately 2" wide, and should be UL listed for this use. Another safety precaution would be to install Carbon Monoxide detectors in the home, and according to the manufacturers instruction(s) as sensors and their mounting preferences can vary.
A water heater is installed over finished living spaces and has no catch pan and drain installed. Recommend having a qualified contractor install a catch pan and drain to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if/when the water heater develops a leak or is drained.
 Photo 79 No catch pan for tank, or no drip leg in gas piping
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The temperature-pressure relief valve drain line is routed so as to empty into the crawl space. Water may accumulate in the crawl space if the valve develops a leak. A qualified plumber should re-route the drain line so as to drain outside.
The Hot and Cold water supply lines are not bonded together at the tank. As part of the proper grounding of the electrical system of the home, not only does the main cold water line need to be bonded with the electrical ground, but also any other conductive metal piping in contact with appliances or fixtures capable of carrying an electrical current such as gas piping and hot water piping. This is done to equalize the grounding potential of the systems in the structure and eliminate the potential for electric shock.
No drip leg is installed on the water heater gas supply line. Drip legs are intended to trap oil, scale, water condensation and/or debris from the gas supply lines before they reach and damage the water heater components. A qualified contractor should install a drip leg as per standard building practices.
The estimated useful life for most water heaters is 8 to 12 years, although some may last up to 16 years. This water heater appears to be approaching this age and may need replacing at any time. Recommend budgeting for a replacement in the near future.
 Photo 80 |
| Heating and cooling | Return to table of contents |
The estimated useful life for most forced air furnaces is 15 to 20 years. This furnace appears to be at this age or older and may need some attention at any time. This furnace was rebuilt assuming at the last service date in 2009 with new burners, blower, venting, & gas valve, however it is unclear if the Heat Exchanger was checked or verified as to its condition. The furnace runs effectively, but the inspection of the heat exchanger in this furnace requires disconnection and disassembly of some of the main components and is not part of the "SOP" of a Home Inspector. Due to the age of the furnace, recommend further evaluation from a certified service technician to specifically inspect the heat exchanger to insure no cracks have developed or significant rusting is present which will end the furnace's life in the near future. Recommend also in the mean time to install Carbon Monoxide detector in living space to monitor levels in the domestic air supply.
 Photo 82 Furnace burners firing off into hidden heat exchanger above.
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The last service date of this system has been more than one year ago. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when it was last serviced, if there are any records of what exactly was repaired/evaluated/replaced. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit:
Gas heating appliances are located within the living space and are connected with a standard B-Vent exhaust flu. (See pictures in "Water Heater" section above for more details) The use of B-Venting within a living space is a safety concern as they can allow carbon monoxide to leak into the domestic air supply of the home, especially when vent lines are aging and corrosion is present. To reduce the chance of toxic gasses leaking into the domestic living space, HVAC rated adhesive backed foil tape should be wrapped 360 degrees around all B-Vent seams and junctions within the vent run that are common with the living space. Typically the foil tape is approximately 2" wide, and should be UL listed for this use. Another safety precaution would be to install Carbon Monoxide detectors in the home, and according to the manufacturers instruction(s) as sensors and their mounting preferences can vary.
Air handler filter(s) should be checked monthly in the future and replaced or washed as necessary.
| Plumbing and laundry | Return to table of contents |
The clothes dryer is equipped with a vinyl or foil, accordion-type, flexible exhaust duct. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission considers these types of ducts to be unsafe, and a fire hazard. These types of ducts can trap lint and are susceptible to kinks or crushing, which can greatly reduce the air flow. This duct should be replaced with a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. Most clothes dryer manufacturers specify the use of a rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. For more information, visit:
 Photo 104 |
Copper water supply pipes in homes built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client(s) should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client(s) should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions such as these may be advised:
No ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection device is installed in the Laundry room, and is a safety concern due to the risk of electric shock. As in a bathroom, receptacles installed in a laundry area must also be GFCI protected. To correct the situation, the receptacle can either be replaced with a GFCI type, or changing the breaker in the panel to a GFCI protected device is also a proper way to correct the circuit.
 Photo 106 |
The washing machine is installed in a finished living space and has no catch pan or drain installed. These are not commonly installed, but they are recommended to prevent water damage to finished interior spaces below if or when the washing machine leaks, overflows or is drained. Recommend installing both a catch pan and drain.
 Photo 105 |
The main sewer cleanout plug is located flushed in the concrete in the back patio, and is made of ABS Plastic. ABS is not rated for outdoor use, and can deteriorate when in contact with UV light. This cleanout should have been installed using PVC, but as it is all below grade except the cap, then when it comes time to replace it, install a PVC cap in its place.
 Photo 29 |
 Photo 136 |
The clothes dryer exhaust duct appears to need cleaning. Moderate amounts of lint build up was found. This will be a safety hazard due to the risk of fire from decreased air flow. This duct should be cleaned now and annually, or more often if necessary in the future. Some chimney sweeps or heating/cooling duct cleaners perform this service. For more information, visit:
 Photo 35 |
Heating unit is installed in ceiling of sun room, and appears to be adequately supported and connected properly to the Gas and Electrical sources. However, as it is mounted in a room not built in compliance with standard building practices, it was not tested.
 Photo 41 |
 Photo 42 |
The inspector was not able to find the main water shut-off valve. The client(s) should consult with the property owner(s) to determine if a shut-off valve exists, find it themselves, or hire a qualified plumber if necessary to find it. If no shut-off valve is found for the structure, then recommend having a qualified plumber install one to more easily allow the water supply to be turned off in the event of an emergency, such as when a supply pipe bursts.
 Photo 18 Meter reading: 1298/80
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 Photo 19 Meter location
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 Photo 107 |
Location of Main Gas shut off valve is in the garage partially blocked by work/storage table. valve should be made easily accessible
 Photo 67 Gas shut off valve
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Neither the clothes washer nor dryer were operated or evaluated. They are excluded from this inspection.
Galvanized water piping still remains in crawlspace, but has been abandoned, and cut. All current water supply lines appear to be running in copper currently.
 Photo 129 Old galvanized line still hung in crawlspace
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| Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys | Return to table of contents |
Both fireplace hearths are less than 18 inches deep. This is a fire hazard. At a minimum, non-combustible hearth pad(s) should be installed. Ideally the hearth(s) should be modified as necessary or installed by a qualified contractor so they are at least 18" deep.
None of the chimney flues have a screen cover installed. Screened covers prevent the following:
The masonry chimney crown is deteriorated (cracked or broken) and needs repairs or replacement. The crown is meant to keep water off of the chimney structure. The chimney can be damaged by wet masonry going through freeze-thaw cycles. A properly constructed chimney crown should:
 Photo 51 |
The masonry chimney's terracotta flue tile used for the gas appliances is cracked. This is a result most likely of the excessive moisture being subjected to this flu from the gas burning appliances, and the absense of a chimney liner. Because of this damage, it is also recommend that sometime in the near future, a chimney service contractor perform a Level 2 inspection as per the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) guidelines.
 Photo 52 |
No metal liner is installed in the masonry chimney, and one or more gas appliances use the chimney for a flue. Standard building practices require that a metal liner be installed in masonry chimneys used to vent gas appliances such as furnaces and water heaters. The purpose of the metal liner is to ensure a correct draft, and to prevent damage to the masonry flue from corrosive exhaust deposits and moisture in the exhaust gases. A qualified chimney service contractor should evaluate and install a metal liner as necessary. For more information visit:
 Photo 55 Shared flu for gas furnace and water tank, no liner.
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 Photo 60 Red arrow indicates which flu is used for gas appliances
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Fireplace damper was tested and is in good working order.
 Photo 84 |
All solid fuel burning appliances (woodstoves and fireplaces, etc.) should be inspected annually by a qualified chimney service contractor, cleaned and repaired as necessary.
| Kitchen | Return to table of contents |
Substandard wiring was found for the under-sink food disposal. Unprotected, non-metallic sheathed (extension cord wiring w/plug) is used. The insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. Armored (BX) cable, or a flexible appliance cord with a plug end and electric outlet should be used. The switch located to the right of the sink has an intermittant contact in it requiring constant pressure to be applied to the switch in order for the disposal to remain operating. The switch needs replacement. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.
 Photo 110 |
The range can tip forward, and no anti-tip bracket isinstalled. This is a safety hazard since the range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit:
The wood veneer at each end of the upper cabinet run, and at the end of the island is delaminating. Causes that can affect this type of failure are poor build quality and excessive moisture. Although not conclusive, there is no overhead exaust fan ventilating the cook top to the exterior of the home, only a recirculation type fan built into the microwave exists currently. While probably allowed at the time of installation, this type of venting is no longer allowed. All range tops installed in kitchen's adhereing to current compliance must have an exterior vented fan sized appropriately to the range top. Recommendation is to vent fan in Microwave through the roof, and use contact adhesive to re-glue the delaminated veneers back to the cabinets.
 Photo 113 |
 Photo 114 |
Caulk is missing and/or deteriorated where countertops meet backsplashes in wet areas, such as around sinks. Caulk should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water damage.
Kitchen appliances, range, microwave, refridgerator, DW, and sink faucet were operated and found to be functioning in reasonable condition.
 Photo 111 |
 Photo 112 |
 Photo 109 |
| Bathrooms | Return to table of contents |
Both bathrooms contain electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink and have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) should be installed as needed.
 Photo 116 Back bath counter sink
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 Photo 117 Back bath at floor
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 Photo 121 Front bathroom
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All bathroom shower/tub valves, sink faucets were ran and tested, and both toilets flushed to verify correct operation. With the exception of the shower head in the back bathroom, all appliances functioned normally w/out any leaks that were noticeable. The shower head has leaky seals at both articulations of the rod.
 Photo 118 |
 Photo 119 Leaking articulation seals.
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 Photo 120 |
The front bathroom with a tub does not have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture accumulation will occur and may damage the structure. Even if the bathroom had a window that opened, it likely does not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when the window is closed. A qualified Professional should install exhaust fans as per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers and tub/shower combinations.
| Interior rooms | Return to table of contents |
An open ground, three-pronged electric receptacle was found in the Dining room. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. Grounding type receptacles began being required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and the presence of 2-pronged receptacles in some areas of this structure, an acceptable repair may be to simply replace the ungrounded 3-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles, or replace with a GFCI grounding receptacle. However the following appliances require grounding type receptacles:
 Photo 123 Open ground in Dining room
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Few electric receptacles and two-pronged receptacles rather than three-pronged, grounded receptacles are installed consistenly in most interior rooms. This can result in "octopus" wiring with extension cords. Two-prong receptacles are considered unsafe by today's standards, and limit the ability to use appliances that require a ground in these rooms. This is a safety hazard for both fire and shock. Examples of appliances that require grounded receptacles include:
 Photo 122 2 prong receptacles were found in Office room, Living room, and Dining room.
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 Photo 124 Dining 2-prong receptacle
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An insufficient number of smoke alarms are installed in the home. Additional smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom. For more information, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
 Photo 115 2 smoke detectors are mounted in the home, 1 in each of the hallways. They were both tested and are functioning.
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The middle bedroom does not have a source of heat, which technically disqualifies it as a bedroom according to standard building practices. The vent to the room was boarded up in the crawlspace and disconnected, a qualified contractor should evaluate and install heat source(s) as necessary.
 Photo 125 |
The heating duct that feeds the back bedroom and back bathroom through a "robber box" vent configuration has significanly lower flow than the rest of the heating vents in the home. All other registers measured between 123 - 136 degrees F after the furnace had been run for 20 minutes. This vent never climbed above 106 degrees F. Adjustable damper(s) in ducts may exist and be reducing the flow. If dampers exist, then they should be opened to attempt to improve the air flow. If the property owner(s) are unaware of such dampers, or if adjusting dampers does not improve the air flow, then a qualified heating/cooling contractor should evaluate and repair or make modifications as necessary.
The doorbell appears to be inoperable. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as necessary.
| Crawl space | Return to table of contents |
In General, the crawlspace is in need of multiple repairs (please note details in descriptions in the following lines).
Evidence of "moderate to heavy" past rodent infestation was found throughout the crawlspace in the form of feces, urine stained vapor barrier, and dead rat carcasses. Although no current activity was noted, proper clean up and abatement is still necessary.
No insulation is installed under the floor in the crawl space. Recommend that a qualified contractor install R19 or better (6" thick fiberglass batt) insulation under the floor for better energy efficiency.
Evidence of prior water intrusion was found in the SW section of the crawl space heading in a diagonal direction across grade to the NE. There is an undermined channel leading from the SW vent well that is flush to the outside concrete walkway running approximately 20 feet or so, and partially undermining 2 of the pier post concrete footings. The grounds are damp, not wet or saturated suggesting that this had happened previously and was just never noticed before as the source of the water seemed to be directed away from the vent via concrete poured sloping away from the perimeter at that location. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. The client(s) should review any disclosure statements available and ask the property owner(s) about past accumulation of water in the crawl space. The crawl space should be monitored in the future for accumulated water, especially after heavy and/or prolonged periods of rain. If water is found to accumulate, a qualified contractor who specializes in drainage issues should evaluate and repair as necessary. Typical repairs for preventing water from accumulating in crawl spaces include:
 Photo 132 |
 Photo 133 |
The crawl space ventilation is substandard, with only one functioning vent. This will result in high levels of moisture in the crawl space and can be a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms. Standard building practices require one square foot of vent area for 150 to 200 square feet of crawl space. Vents should be evenly distributed and within a few feet of corners to promote air circulation. A qualified contractor should evaluate and install vents as per standard building practices.
Wooden support posts are not securely fastened to beams above, nor to the footings below. This is a safety hazard since they can separate during a seismic event. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary, such as installing metal ties, bracing with lumber and/or plywood gussets as per standard building practices.
 Photo 127 |
 Photo 128 |
The vapor barrier is in poor condition. For example, installed in a substandard way, large areas of exposed soil, cuts or tears in the plastic, significant amounts of sediment on top, etc. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms due to the likelihood of water evaporating into the structure from the soil. A qualified contractor should replace the vapor barrier. Standard building practices require the following:
 Photo 126 |
Water supply pipes are uninsulated. Recommend insulating pipes as necessary for better energy efficiency and to prevent water pipes from freezing.
 Photo 130 Copper supply pipes have replaced the old galvanized, but no insulation is present.
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 Photo 131 |
Cellulose-based debris such as wood scraps, form wood, cardboard and/or paper were found in crawl space. All cellulose-based debris should be removed to avoid attracting wood destroying insects.
 Photo 15 Crawlspace access cover
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