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A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA

Website: http://www.reporthost.com/Asurelook-SA
Email: Asurelooksa@telkomsa.net
Phone: (082) 903-7201
FAX: (011) 974-1199
Inspector: Geoffrey Veenendaal
InterNACHI Member # NACHI08091301
North Carolina Associate Home Inspector License # A-919

 

RESIDENTIAL HOME INSPECTION REPORT

Prepared For:

Client(s): Sheralee Ann Boy
Property address: 19 Glen Valley, 24 Baker Road, Edenglen 1609
Inspection date: Monday, June 22, 2009
This report published on 6/27/2009 9:47:10 AM SAST

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This home was inspected by Geoffrey B Veenendaal of A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA according to the InterNACHI 'Code of Ethics' and their 'Standards of Practice'

Operating under license to A Sure-Look Home Inspections, LLC, Charlotte, North Carolina, USA





PLEASE NOTE:
This report is the exclusive property of A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.

We inspect all of the systems, components, and conditions described in accordance the Standards of Practice of InterNACHI, and those that we do not inspect are clearly disclaimed in the contract and/or in the aforementioned standards. However some components that are inspected and found to be functional may not necessarily appear in the report, simply because we do not wish to waste our client's time by having to read an unnecessarily lengthy report. This inspection is considered a point in time inspection and is not technically exhaustive. It is also not a warranty or guarantee, nor is it a code or compliance inspection. Before reading the following report, Client acknowledges receipt of a copy of the pre-inspection agreement, and has carefully read and agreed to the contents contained therein.

General exclusions & warnings

Items excluded from inspection

"Note: Just as no two home inspectors and no two reporting systems are alike, no two inspection reports, even if performed on the same property at the same time, are alike. This home inspection report was performed for my client and assumes full disclosure on the part of the home seller. My client may choose to share my report with others, but it was performed solely for my client. Although A Sure-Look Home Inspections –SA performs all inspections and writes all reports objectively, without regard to the client's personal interests; performing additional fresh inspections could reveal and report matters differently."

General warnings

Structures built prior to 1979 may contain lead-based paint and/or asbestos in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is not included in this inspection. Asbestos regulations require that any Asbestos containing material and/or any presumed Asbestos containing material must be treated as asbestos containing material until materials are proven to contain less than 1% asbestos by laboratory analysis. For information on lead, asbestos and other hazardous materials in homes, visit these websites:
The Environmental Protection Association: http://www.epa.gov
The Consumer Products Safety Commission: http://www.cpsc.gov
The Centre for Disease Control: http://www.cdc.gov

 
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas.  Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type.  Items of concern follow descriptive information. Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
SafetyPoses a risk of injury or death 
Major DefectCorrection likely involves a significant expense 
Repair/ReplaceRecommend repairing or replacing 
Repair/MaintainRecommend repair and/or maintenance 
Minor DefectCorrection likely involves only a minor expense 
MaintainRecommend ongoing maintenance 
EvaluateRecommend evaluation by a specialist 
MonitorRecommend monitoring in the future 
CommentFor your information 

Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.  Contact your inspector if there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at http://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp

Table of Contents
General information
Structure and Exterior
Roof
Garage
Attic
Electric Service
Water Heater
Heating and Cooling
Plumbing and Laundry
Swimming Pool and Well Equipment
Kitchen
Bathrooms
Interior Rooms and Living Area
 
General information Return to table of contents
Structures inspected: Private dwelling and swimming pool
Type of building: Single family2004
Age of building: 5 years
Property owner's name: Sheralee Ann Boy
Time started: 09h30
Time finished: 12h00
Inspection Fee: R2,100-00
Payment method: Cheque
Present during inspection: Client(s), Realtor(s)
Occupied: No, but furnishings and stored items are present
Weather conditions: Clear
Temperature: Cool - 18 degrees Centigrade
Ground condition: Dry
Front of structure faces: North
Main entrance faces: North
Foundation type: Slab on grade
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Security system, Irrigation system, Low voltage outdoor lighting, Built-in sound system, Intercom system
Comment:

SCOPE OF WORK

You have contracted with Geoffrey Veenendaal of A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA to perform a generalist Home Inspection in accordance with the InterNACHI Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice which is also applicable to the North Carolina Home Inspector Licensure Board/s, a copy of which is available upon request. Generalist inspections are essentially visual, and distinct from those of specialists, inasmuch as they do not include the use of specialized instruments, the dismantling of equipment, or the sampling of air and inert materials. Consequently, a generalist inspection and the subsequent report will not be as comprehensive, nor as technically exhaustive, as that generated by specialists, and it is not intended to be. The purpose of a generalist inspection is to identify significant defects or adverse conditions that would warrant a specialist evaluation. You should therefore be aware of the limitations of this type of inspection, which are clearly indicated in the standards. However, the inspection is not intended to document the type of cosmetic deficiencies that would be apparent to the average person, and certainly not intended to identify insignificant deficiencies. The basic home inspection carried out on this property does not include identification of, or research for, appliances and other items installed in the home that may be recalled. In accordance with the terms of the contract, the service recommendations that we make in this report should be completed well before the close of escrow by licensed specialists, who may well identify additional defects or recommend some upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property. Alterations, renovations, additions and/or modifications to the property are typically carried out by Licensed Contractors under the issuance of work permit/s. Any such work previously undertaken should be disclosed by the Seller/s, and permits and certificate/s of occupancy should be verified. This is important because our inspection does not tacitly approve, endorse, or guarantee the integrity of any work that was done without a permit, and latent defects could exist. Validating permits and certificate/s of occupancy is beyond the scope of our general Inspection. Most homes built after 1978, are generally assumed to be free of asbestos and many other common environmental contaminants. However, as a courtesy to our clients, we are including some well documented, and therefore public, information about several environmental contaminants that could be of concern to you and your family, all of which we do not have the expertise or the authority to evaluate, such as asbestos, methane, formaldehyde, termites and other wood-destroying organisms, pests and rodents, moulds, microbes, bacterial organisms, and electromagnetic radiation, to name some of the more commonplace ones. Nevertheless, we will attempt to alert you to any suspicious substances that would warrant evaluation by a specialist. However, health, safety, and environmental hygiene are deeply personal responsibilities, and you should make sure that you are familiar with any contaminant that could affect your home environment. You can learn more about contaminants that can affect you home from a booklet published by The Environmental Protection Agency, which you can read online at: www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.htm. Mould is one such contaminant. It is a micro organism that has tiny seeds, or spores, that are spread on the air, land, and feed on organic matter. It has been in existence throughout human history, and actually contributes to the life process. It takes many different forms, many of them benign, like mildew. Some characterized as allergens are relatively benign but can provoke allergic reactions among sensitive people, and others characterized as pathogens can have adverse health effects on large segments of the population, such as the very young, the elderly, and people with suppressed immune systems. However, there are less common moulds that are called toxigens that represent a serious health threat. All moulds flourish in the presence of moisture, and we make a concerted effort to look for any evidence of it wherever there could be a water source, including that from condensation. Interestingly, the moulds that commonly appear on ceramic tiles in bathrooms do not usually constitute a health threat, but they should be removed. However, some visibly similar moulds that form on cellulose materials, such as on drywall, plaster, and wood, are potentially toxigenic. If mould is to be found anywhere within a home, it will likely be in the area of tubs, showers, toilets, sinks, water heaters, evaporator coils, inside attics with unvented bathroom exhaust fans, and return-air compartments that draw outside air, all of which are areas that we inspect very conscientiously. Nevertheless, mould can appear as though spontaneously at any time, so you should be prepared to monitor your home, and particularly those areas that we identify. Naturally, it is equally important to maintain clean air-supply ducts and to change filters as soon as they become soiled, because contaminated ducts are a common breeding ground for dust mites, rust, and other contaminants. Although some mould-like substances may be visually identified, the specific identification of moulds can only be determined by specialists and laboratory analysis, and is absolutely beyond the scope of our inspection. Nonetheless, as a prudent investment in environmental hygiene, we categorically recommend that you have your home tested for the presence of any such contaminants, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma. You can also learn more about mould from the Environmental Protection Agency document entitled: "A Brief Guide to Mould, Moisture and Your Home," or by visiting their web site at: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html/, from which it can be downloaded. Asbestos is another notorious contaminant that could be present in any home built before 1978. It is a naturally occurring mineral fibre that was first used by the Greek and Romans, in the first century, and it has been widely used throughout the modern world in a variety of thermal insulators, including those in the form of paper wraps, bats, blocks, and blankets. However, it can also be found in a wide variety of other products too numerous to mention, including duct insulation and acoustical materials, plasters, siding, floor tiles, heat vents, and roofing products. Although perhaps recognized as being present in some documented forms, asbestos can only be specifically identified by laboratory analysis. The most common asbestos fibre that exists in residential products is chrysotile, which belongs to the serpentine or white-asbestos group, and was also used in the manufacture of clutches and brake shoes of automobiles for many years. However, a single asbestos fibre is said to be able to cause cancer, and is therefore a potential health threat and a litigious issue. Significantly, asbestos fibres are only dangerous when they are released into the air and inhaled, and for this reason authorities such as the Environmental Protection Agency and the Consumer Product Safety Commission distinguish between asbestos that is in good condition, or non-friable, and that which is in poor condition, or friable, which means that its fibres could be easily crumbled and become airborne. We are however not specialists and, regardless of the condition of any real or suspected asbestos-containing material, we would not endorse it and would recommend having it evaluated by a specialist. Radon is a gas that results from the natural decay of radioactive materials within the soil, and is purported to be the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. The gas is able to enter homes through the voids around pipes in concrete floors or through the floorboards of poorly ventilated crawlspaces, and particularly when the ground is wet and the gas cannot easily escape through the soil and be dispersed into the atmosphere. However, it cannot be detected by the senses, and its existence can only be determined by sophisticated instruments and/or laboratory analysis. You can learn more about radon and other environmental contaminants and their affects on health, by contacting the Environmental Protection Agency or a similar state agency, and it would be prudent for you to enquire about any high radon readings that might be prevalent in the general area surrounding your home. Radon gas evaluation is beyond the scope of this General Home Inspection. Lead poses an equally serious health threat. In the 1920's, it was commonly found in many plumbing systems. In fact, the word "plumbing" is derived from the Latin word "plumbum," which means lead. When used as a component of a waste system, it does not constitute a viable health threat, but as a component of potable water pipes it would certainly be a health-hazard. Although rarely found in use, lead could be present in any home build as recently as the nineteen forties. For instance, lead was an active ingredient in many household paints, which can be released in the process of sanding, and even be ingested by small children and animals chewing on painted surfaces. Fortunately, the lead in painted surfaces can be detected by industrial hygienists using sophisticated instruments, but testing for it is not cheap. There are other environmental contaminants, some of which we have already mentioned, and others that may be relatively benign. However, we are not environmental hygienists, and as we stated earlier we disclaim any responsibility for testing or establishing the presence of any environmental contaminant, and recommend that you schedule whatever specialist inspections that may deem prudent before the close of escrow.
We thank you for trusting A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA to attend to your Home Inspection.
1) Some wall, floor and/or ceiling surfaces were obscured by furniture and/or stored items. Some areas couldn't be evaluated. A prime example would be the wiring behind the TV cabinet, where it appears that all electrical equipment are connected to 1 outlet, which could be a safety/fire hazard.

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Structure and Exterior Return to table of contents
Comment:

Structure and Exterior

All structures are dependent on the soil beneath them for support, but soils are not uniform. Some that might appear to be firm and solid can liquefy and become unstable during seismic activity. There are soils that can expand to twice their volume with the influx of water and move structures with relative ease, raising and lowering them and fracturing slabs and other hard surfaces. In fact, expansive soils have accounted for more structural damage than most natural disasters. Regardless, foundations are not uniform, and conform to the structural standard of the year in which they were built. In accordance with our standards of practice, we identify foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces in foundations are quite common. In fact, it would be rare to find an older property with a raised foundation wall that does not have minor cracks and/or has deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation (in both new and older homes) that did not include some cracks concealed beneath the carpeting and padding. Fortunately, most of these cracks are related to the curing process or to common settling, including some wide ones called cold-joint separations that typically contour the footings. Others can be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils that can predicate more or less continual movement. We will certainly alert you to any suspicious cracks if they are clearly visible. However, we are not specialists, and in the absence of any major defects we may not recommend that you consult with a foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert. We do not evaluate landscape components, such as trees, shrubs, fountains, ponds, statuary, pottery, fire pits, patio fans, heat lamps, decorative or low-voltage lighting, or any mechanical or remotely controlled components, such as driveway gates. In addition, we do not comment on coatings or cosmetic deficiencies and the wear and tear associated with the passage of time, which would be apparent to the average person. However, cracks in hard surfaces can imply the presence of expansive soils that can result in continuous movement, but this could only be confirmed by a geological evaluation of the soil. Note that the inspector does not test or determine the adequacy of drainage systems for ground, walkways, below-grade stairs and/or roof downspouts. The inspector does not provide an evaluation of geological conditions and/or site stability, compliance of pool or spa fencing with municipal requirements, or determination that deck, balcony and/or stair membranes are watertight. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only.
Footing material: Poured in place concrete
Foundation material: Brick
Apparent wall structure: Brick
Wall covering: Brick with Plaster
Driveway material: Brick paving
Sidewalk material: None
Exterior door material: Wood panel
2) One or more open ground, three-pronged grounding type receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

Grounding type receptacles were first required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and/or the absence of 2-pronged receptacles, repairs should be made by correcting wiring circuits as necessary so all receptacles are grounded as per standard building practices. Replacement of three-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles is not an acceptable solution.

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3) Non-metallic sheathed wiring is routed in one or more areas so it is subject to damage, such as on wall or ceiling surfaces. The insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, rewire using conduit, or re-routing through wall cavities.

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4) Wire splices are exposed due to not being contained in a covered junction box. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install securely mounted junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.

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5) One or more hornet, bee and/or wasp nests were found. These can pose a safety hazard. Nest(s) should be removed as necessary.

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6) Fences and/or gates are damaged and/or deteriorated in some areas, where welding has come loose and rust is evident along the back fencing. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs or replace sections as necessary.

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7) One or more gutters and fascias are damaged and have pulled away from the fascia. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms, and may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. A qualified contractor should replace or repair gutters where necessary.

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8) The perimeter grading slopes towards the structure in one or more areas. This can result in water accumulating around the structure's foundation, or in basements and crawl spaces if they exist. Accumulated water is a conducive condition to wood destroying insects and organisms. Wet soil may also cause the foundation to settle and possibly fail over time. Recommend grading soil so it slopes down and away from the structure with a slope of at least 5% (10% or better is optimal) for at least 6 feet.

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9) Minor cracks and/or deterioration were found in one or more exterior walls and around a waste pipe exiting the downstairs second bathroom. Recommend repairing cracks with mortar, elastomeric sealant, or other suitable material to prevent water intrusion and further deterioration. The client(s) should monitor such walls in the future for continued deterioration (cracking, leaning, bowing, etc.). Repairs and/or replacement by a qualified contractor may be necessary in the future.

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10) Vegetation such as trees, shrubs and/or vines are in contact with or less than one foot from the structure's exterior. Vegetation can serve as a conduit for wood destroying insects and may retain moisture against the exterior after it rains. Vegetation should be pruned and/or removed as necessary to maintain a one foot clearance between it and the structure's exterior.

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11) Caulk and tile grouting is missing or deteriorated in some areas and should be replaced and/or applied where necessary. For more information on caulking, visit:
The Ins and Outs of Caulking.

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12) The exterior finish in some areas is failing. A qualified contractor should prep (pressure wash, scrape, sand, prime caulk, etc.) and repaint or restain areas as needed and as per standard building practices.

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Roof Return to table of contents
Comment:

Roof

There are many different roof types, which we evaluate from the ground, using binoclulars, ladder and any other vantage points (e.g. windows, attic, etc.). If a ranch style house with low pitched roof appears to be safe, we may evaluate it by walking on it. If we are unable or unwilling to do this for any reason, we will always indicate the method that was used to evaluate the roof. Every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or other prevalent weather conditions, and the regularity of its maintenance. Regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing the roof material, and this is equally true of almost all roofs. In fact, the material on the majority of pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof only water-resistant. However, what remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings or on the framing within attics, could be old and will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installers can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We evaluate every roof conscientiously, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not predict its remaining life expectancy, or guarantee that it will not leak. We also do not evaluate and/or endorse the quality or effectiveness of any previous repairs that have been made; only a licensed Roofing Contractor can provide this kind of information. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.
Roof inspection method: Viewed from eaves on ladder, Viewed from ground with binoculars
Roof type: Cross gable
Roof covering: Concrete tile
Estimated age of roof: 5 years
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Roof ventilation: Adequate
13) Standing water was found on the flat roof. It should evaporate within 48 hours after it rains. If standing water remains after 48 hours, then the roof installation is likely substandard. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate and repair if necessary to prevent prolonged standing water. No sealant was evident at or around the overflow drain pipes from the flat roof/sun deck. This is the probable cause of the water intrusion and the resultant water stains in the garage area.

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14) One or more flashings at parapet walls are deteriorated and/or substandard. These may result in leaks. A qualified roofing contractor should evaluate seal and repair as necessary.

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15) Debris has accumulated in one or more gutters. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects since gutters may overflow and cause water to come in contact with the structure's exterior or make water accumulate around the foundation. Gutters should be cleaned now and as necessary in the future.

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Garage Return to table of contents
Comment:

Garage

It is not uncommon for moisture to penetrate garages, because their slabs are on-grade. Evidence of this is typically apparent in the form of efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, that result when moisture penetrates the concrete slab or sidewalls. This is a common with garages that are below grade, and some sidewalls are even cored to relieve the pressure that can build up behind them, and which actually promotes drainage through the garage. Also, if there is living space above the garage, that space will be seismically vulnerable. Ideally, the columns and beams around the garage door will be made of structural steel, but in many residences these components are made of wood but could include some structural accessories, such as post-straps and hold-downs, and plywood shear panelling.
16) The auto-reverse mechanism on the vehicle door opener is inoperable or requires too much force to activate. This is a safety hazard, especially for small children. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information on garage door safety issues, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html
http://www.ohdstl.com/safety.html

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17) Non-metallic sheathed wiring is routed in one or more areas so it is subject to damage, such as on wall or ceiling surfaces. The insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, rewire using conduit, or re-routing through wall cavities. Evidence of home electrical work is the probable cause.

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18) Wire splices are exposed due to not being contained in a covered junction box. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install securely mounted junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.
19) The garage-house door poses a fire risk because it's not fire-rated (metal or solid-core construction). A qualified contractor should replace this door with a fire-rated door.

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Hollow door to garage
  
20)   A number of water stains were found in the garage area, both on the walls and on the roof. A flat roof/sun deck is directly above the garage, which requires a specialist roofing contractor to evaluate and seal where necessary. Pooling and poor drainage are the probable cause.

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Attic Return to table of contents
Comment:

Attic

In accordance with our standards, we do not attempt to enter attics that have less than thirty-six inches of headroom, are restricted by ducts, or in which the insulation obscures the joists and thereby makes mobility hazardous, in which case we would inspect them as best we can from the access point. In regard to evaluating the type and amount of insulation on the attic floor, we use only generic terms and approximate measurements, and do not sample or test the material for specific identification. Also, we do not disturb or move any portion of it, and it may well obscure water pipes, electrical conduits, junction boxes, exhaust fans, and other components.
Inspection method: Viewed from hatch, Partially traversed
Roof structure type: Trusses
Ceiling structure: Trusses
Insulation material: None visible
21) No ceiling insulation is installed in the attic. A qualified contractor should install insulation for better energy efficiency and as per standard building practices with an R rating recommended for this area.

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22) Some attic areas were inaccessible due to lack of permanently installed walkways, the possibility of damage to insulation, low height and/or stored items. These areas are excluded from this inspection.

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Electric Service Return to table of contents
Comment:

Electric Service

There are a wide variety of electrical systems with an even greater variety of components, and any one particular system may not conform to current standards or provide the same degree of service and safety. What is most significant about electrical systems however is that the National Electrical Code is not retroactive, and therefore many residential systems do not comply with the latest safety standards. Regardless, we are not a licensed Electrical Contractor and in compliance with our standards of practice we only test a representative number of switches and outlets. Any recommendations that we may make for service or upgrades should be completed before the close of registration, because an electrician could reveal additional deficiencies or recommend some upgrades for which we would disclaim any further responsibility. However, we typically recommend upgrading outlets to have ground fault protection, which is a relatively inexpensive but an essential safety feature. These outlets are often referred to as GFCI's, or ground fault circuit interrupters and, generally speaking, have been required in specific locations for more than thirty years, beginning with swimming pools and exterior outlets in 1971, and the list has been added to ever since: bathrooms in 1975, garages in 1978, spas and hot tubs in 1981, hydro tubs, massage equipment, boat houses, kitchens, and unfinished basements in 1987, crawlspaces in 1990, wet bars in 1993, and all kitchen countertop outlets with the exception of refrigerator and freezer outlets since 1996. Similarly, AFCI's or arc fault circuit interrupters, represent the very latest in circuit breaker technology, and have been required in all bedroom circuits since 2002.
Primary service type: Underground
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 100
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main service switch: Main bedroom
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at top of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
System ground: Ground rod(s) in soil
Main disconnect rating (amps): 100
Branch circuit wiring type: Copper
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
Smoke detectors present: No
23) One or more arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) breakers in the main service panel would not trip when tested. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs and/or replace circuit breakers as necessary.

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Water Heater Return to table of contents
Comment:

Water Heater

There are a wide variety of residential water heaters that range in capacity from fifty to two hundred and fifty litres. They can be expected to last at least as long as their warranty, or from five to eight years, but they will generally last longer. However, few of them last longer than fifteen or twenty years and many eventually leak. So it is always wise to have them installed over a drain pan plumbed to the exterior. Also, it is prudent to flush them annually to remove minerals that include the calcium chloride bi-product of many water softening systems. The water temperature should be set at a minimum of 45 degrees centigrade to kill microbes and a maximum of 55 degrees centigrade to prevent scalding. Also, water heaters can be dangerous if they are not seismically secured and equipped with either a pressure/temperature relief valve and discharge pipe plumbed to the exterior.
Estimated age: 3 years
Type: Tank
Energy source: Electricity
Capacity (in gallons): 65
Manufacturer: Whirlpool
Model: WH130-06
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 65 degrees Centigrade
24) The hot water temperature is greater than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of scalding. The thermostat should be adjusted so the water temperature doesn't exceed 120 degrees. For more information on scalding dangers, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5098.html

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Heating and Cooling Return to table of contents
Comment:

Heating and Cooling

The components of most heating and air-conditioning systems have a design-life ranging from ten to twenty years, but can fail prematurely with poor maintenance, which is why we apprise you of their age whenever possible. We test and evaluate them in accordance with the standards of practice, which means that we do not dismantle and inspect the concealed portions of evaporator and condensing coils, the heat exchanger, which is also known as the firebox, electronic air-cleaners, humidifiers, electric heat-pump heating elements, ducts and in-line duct-motors or dampers. The following potential defects and/or failures are not included as part of this Home Inspection: Combustion misfire, heat exchanger integrity failure, extreme temperature control failure, flame roll-out failure, delayed & over-fired ignition, safety pressure control failure, toxic fumes from clogged exhaust. We perform a conscientious evaluation of both systems, but we are not specialists. However, even the most modern heating systems can produce carbon monoxide, which in a sealed or poorly ventilated room can result in sickness, debilitating injury, and/or even death. It is essential that any recommendations that we make for service or a second opinion be scheduled before registration, because a specialist could reveal additional inherent defects therein or recommend further upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property, and our service does not include any form of warranty or guarantee.
Estimated age: 3 years
Primary heating system energy source: Electric
Primary heat system type: Fan assisted, in-wall units
Primary A/C energy source: Electric
Primary Air conditioning type: Split system
Distribution system: N/A
Manufacturer: Whirlpool
Model: WH 4H124
Filter location: In return air duct above furnace
Last service date: 2006
25) Air handler filter(s) are dirty and should be washed now. They should be checked monthly in the future and washed as necessary.

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Plumbing and Laundry Return to table of contents
Comment:

Plumbing and Laundry

The water pressure within pipes is commonly confused with water volume, but whereas high water volume is good high water pressure is not. In fact, whenever the street pressure exceeds eighty pounds per square inch a regulator is recommended, which typically comes factory preset between forty-five and sixty-five pounds per square inch. However, regardless of the pressure, leaks will occur in any system, and particularly in one with older galvanized pipes, or one in which the regulator fails and high pressure begins to stress the washers and diaphragms within the various components. Inasmuch as significant portions of drainpipes are concealed, we can only infer their condition by observing the draw at drains. The plumbing supply, drains, vent and waste piping materials are not fully visible with slab type of foundation construction, which limits material identification to be based on visible piping in the attic space and interior fixture locations only. In accordance with industry standards, we do not test clothes dryers, nor washing machines and their water connections and drainpipes. However, there are two things that you should be aware of. The water supply to washing machines is usually left on, and their hoses can leak or burst under pressure and continue to flow. We therefore recommend replacing the rubber hose type with newer braided stainless steel ones that are much more dependable. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of washing machine drain lines, washing machine catch pan drain lines, or clothes dryer exhaust ducts. The inspector does not operate water supply or shut-off valves for clothes washers or laundry room sinks, due to the possibility of valves leaking or breaking when operated. The inspector does not determine the completeness or operability of any gas piping to laundry appliances. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only.
Water pressure (psi): 90 psi
Location of main water shut-off valve: Right front verge
Location of main water meter: Right front verge
Water service: Public
Service pipe material: Polyethelene
Supply pipe material: Copper
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Drain pipe material: Plastic
Waste pipe material: Plastic
26) The water supply pressure is greater than 80 psi. Pressures above 80 psi may void warranties for some appliances such as water heaters or washing machines. Flexible supply lines to washing machines are more likely to burst with higher pressures. Typically the pressure cannot be regulated at the water meter. Recommend having a qualified plumber evaluate and make modifications to reduce the pressure below 80 psi. Installing a pressure reducing valve on the main service pipe is a common solution to this problem. If one exists, then it should be adjusted for lower pressures. Main sut-off valve is located on the front verge, right of the home.

Photo 42   		 
27) No clothes dryer exhaust duct is installed. Clothes dryers produce large amounts of moisture which should not enter structure interiors. Damage to building components may result. A rigid or semi-rigid metal exhaust duct should be installed as per standard building practices, and by a qualified contractor if necessary. For information, visit:
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

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Swimming Pool and Well Equipment Return to table of contents
Comment:
28)   The swimming pool is a marble plaster, gunnite pool of approximately 5 years of age. Pool motor is quiet and efficient and the paving is well maintained with adequate expansion joints around the pool area to allow for changes in temperature and to avoid cracks.

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Kitchen Return to table of contents
Comment:

Kitchen

We test kitchen appliances for their functionality, and cannot evaluate them for their performance nor for the variety of their settings or cycles. However, if they are older than ten years, they may well exhibit decreased efficiency. Also, many older gas and electric ranges are not secured and can be easily tipped, particularly when any weight is applied to an open range door, and all such appliances should be confirmed to be secure. Regardless, we do not inspect the following items: free-standing appliances, refrigerators & ice water supply, trash-compactors, built-in toasters, coffee-makers, can-openers, blenders, instant hot-water dispensers, water-purifiers, barbecues, grills or rotisseries, timers, clocks, thermostats, the self-cleaning capability of ovens, and concealed or countertop lighting, which is convenient but often installed after the initial construction and not wired to national electrical standards.
 
Bathrooms Return to table of contents
Comment:

Bathrooms

In accordance with industry standards, we do not comment on common cosmetic deficiencies, and do not evaluate window treatments, steam showers, and saunas. The inspector does not operate water supply or shut-off valves for sinks, toilets, bidets, etc. due to the possibility of valves leaking or breaking when operated. The inspector does not determine if shower pans or tub and shower enclosures are water tight.
29) One or more bathrooms with a shower do not have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture accumulation will occur and may damage the structure. Even if the bathroom has a window that opens, it likely does not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when the window is closed. A qualified contractor should install exhaust fans as per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers.
 
Interior Rooms and Living Area Return to table of contents
Comment:

Interior Rooms and Living Area

Our inspection of living space includes the visually accessible areas of walls, floors, cabinets and closets and includes the testing of a representative number of windows and doors, switches and outlets. However, we do not evaluate window treatments, or move furniture, lift carpets or rugs, empty closets or cabinets, and we do not comment on cosmetic deficiencies. We may not comment on the cracks that appear around windows and doors, or which follow the lines of framing members and the seams of drywall and plasterboard. These cracks are a consequence of movement, such as wood shrinkage, common settling, and will often reappear if they are not correctly repaired. Such cracks can become the subject of disputes, and are therefore best evaluated by a specialist. Similarly, there are a number of environmental pollutants that we have already elaborated upon, the specific identification of which is beyond the scope of our service but which can become equally contentious. In addition, there are a host of lesser contaminants, such as that from moisture penetrating carpet-covered cracks in floor slabs, as well as odours from household pets and cigarette smoke that can permeate walls, carpets, heating and air conditioning ducts, and other porous surfaces, and which can be difficult to eradicate. However, inasmuch as the sense of smell adjusts rapidly, and the sensitivity to such odours is certainly not uniform, we recommend that you make this determination for yourself, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma, and then schedule whatever remedial services may be deemed necessary before registration.
30) One or more open ground, three-pronged electric receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing receptacles or correcting wiring circuits.

Grounding type receptacles began being required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and the presence of 2-pronged receptacles in some areas of this structure, an acceptable repair may be to simply replace the ungrounded 3-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles. However the following appliances require grounding type receptacles:

  • Computer hardware
  • Refrigerators
  • Freezers
  • Air conditioners
  • Clothes washers
  • Clothes dryers
  • Dishwashers
  • Kitchen food waste disposers
  • Information technology equipment
  • Sump pumps
  • Electrical aquarium equipment
  • Hand-held motor-operated tools
  • Stationary and fixed motor-operated tools
  • Light industrial motor-operated tools
  • Hedge clippers
  • Lawn mowers

    This list is not exhaustive. Grounded circuits and receptacles should be installed in locations where such appliances will be used.

    Photo 7       		 
    31) One or more open ground, three-pronged grounding type receptacles were found. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

    Grounding type receptacles were first required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and/or the absence of 2-pronged receptacles, repairs should be made by correcting wiring circuits as necessary so all receptacles are grounded as per standard building practices. Replacement of three-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles is not an acceptable solution.

    Photo 54       		 
    32) One or more ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) electric receptacles did not trip when tested. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

    Photo 56       		 
    33) Non-metallic sheathed wiring is routed in one or more areas so it is subject to damage, such as on wall or ceiling surfaces. The insulation can be damaged by objects coming in contact with it and/or it being repeatedly moved. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock and fire. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, rewire using conduit, or re-routing through wall cavities.

    Photo 44       		 
    34) Extension cords are being used as permanent wiring in one or more areas. They should only be used for portable equipment on a temporary basis. Using extension cords as permanent wiring poses a fire and shock hazard, and is an indication that wiring is inadequate and should be updated. Extension cords may be undersized. Connections may not be secure, resulting in power fluctuations, damage to equipment, and sparks that could start a fire. Extension cords should be removed as necessary, or a qualified electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, install additional circuits and/or electric receptacles.

    Photo 49       		 
    35) No smoke alarms are visible. This is a safety hazard. A qualified electrician should install smoke alarms as per standard building practices (functioning one exists in hallways leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom, etc.). For more information, visit:
    http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5077.html
    36) One or more doors bind in their jamb and cannot be closed and latched, or are difficult to open and close. A qualified contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For example, adjusting jambs or trimming doors.

    Photo 3  
    Photo 51  
    37) Tile, stone and/or grout flooring is damaged and/or deteriorated in one or more areas. A qualified contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For example, replacing broken tiles and deteriorated grout, and resealing grout.

    Photo 38  
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    38) Glass in one or more windows is broken. A qualified contractor should replace glass where necessary.

    Photo 40       		 
    39) One or more exterior entrance doors are damaged and/or deteriorated and should be repaired or replaced by a qualified contractor.

    Photo 3  
    Photo 51  
    40) One or more rooms that are considered living spaces appear to have no visible source of heat. The client(s) should consult with the property owner(s) regarding this, and if necessary, a qualified contractor should evaluate and install heat source(s) as necessary.
    41) Minor cracks were found in walls as well as water stains in one or more areas. They do not appear to be a structural concern, but the client(s) may wish to repair these for aesthetic reasons. There are also water stains from leaks which appear to have been caused from the flat roof/sun deck which doubles as the roof of the double garage. Drainage from the flat roof is inadequate and requires sealing at the overflow pipes.

    Photo 2  
    Photo 45  

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    This report has been produced in accordance with our signed contract and is subject to the Terms and Conditions agreed upon therein. All printed comments and the opinions expressed herein are those of 'A Sure-Look Home Inspections - SA'.

    Home Maintenance Check List

    Monthly:

    1. Clean dishwasher filter (if provided), usually at lower spray arm.
    2. Purge garbage disposal by first filling kitchen sink with clean water, then turn on food disposer until water is drained through.
    3. Change/clean air conditioning return filters monthly. This will help keep your air cleaner and system running more efficiently. Clogged air filters will make your system operate longer than required, thereby increasing your monthly bills.
    4. Wash refrigerator/freezer interior walls and door liner with solution of 1 quart warm water: 2 tablespoons of baking soda, and wipe dry.
    5. Vacuum and clean all return air ducts/grills.
    6. Inspect lighting fixtures and replace blown light bulbs.
    7. Clean clothes drier lint traps and or ducts to reduce fire risk.
    8. Clean toaster oven crumb tray.

    Quarterly:

    1. Inspect exterior doors to ensure they are weather tight. Adjust or replace weather stripping as needed.
    2. Service doors (incl. garage doors) and drawers, clean and lubricate latches, hinges and guides.
    3. Inspect and repair exterior caulking around windows, doors, and siding.
    4. Replace/clean central heating system (furnace) filters.
    5. Re-tighten knobs on kitchen cabinets, don't overtighten.

    Semi-Annually:

    1. Have heating and air conditioning systems inspected and serviced by licensed contractor.
    2. Inspect and test smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors and replace back up batteries.
    3. Check (GFCI) Ground Fault Interrupted Circuits. Test if grounded and correct polarity.
    4. Inspect and maintain proper drainage around home. Clean gutters and down-pipes and ensure water is flowing away from your home.
    5. Inspect home for rodent droppings or other pests. Have home treated as needed.
    6. Test sump pump for reliable operation, especially before any rainy season.
    7. Wash fan housing and metal filter connected to range hood exhaust fans. These can be safely washed by placing them inside the dishwasher.
    8. Vacuum coils behind refrigerator/freezer to remove dust, this will improve efficiency of unit.
    9. Tap off a bucket of water from the hot water heater until it runs clean.

    Annually:

    1. Inspect and repair settling cracks (where necessary).
    2. Inspect and lubricate garage door tracks.
    3. Inspect exterior paint for cracking and wear. Repaint or seal as needed.
    4. Drain and refill water heater.
    5. Trip main breaker on electric panel.
    6. Inspect all electric cords and replace if necessary.
    7. Inspect attic for water damage, birds, and rodents.
    8. Inspect all electrical cords and replace if necessary.
    9. Inspect basement for moisture/mold and wood rot.
    10. Inspect attic for signs of roof leaks or water damage, bird nests, rodent or squirrel nests, and clean if necessary.
    11. Change water filters and have water softeners serviced.
    12. Inspect roof flashings, chimney caps, shingles (for mold and damage) and caulking for possible damage.
    13. Pressure wash deck, walkways and driveway.
    14. Reseal wood decks with preservative and inspect and secure nails that may be protruding out. Nails have a tendency to pop out after very cold weather conditions.
    15. Clean or replace oil filter (oil fired burner only).
    16. Inspect outside electrical service feeder for exposed bare wires and tree interference.
    17. Inspect basement/crawl space area for signs of termites and/or other wood-boring insects.
    18. Use hose to wash off dirt from coil and fan in heat pump/condenser locate outside of house.
    19. Inspect all hoses (and replace if necessary) connected to laundry washer unit.
    20. Clean and seal ceramic tile grout lines in bathrooms/toilets/kitchen.
    21. Check caulking at tub and shower, and replace if necessary.
    22. Wash and blow clean bathroom exhaust fan grill and fan blades.
    23. Wash windows (exterior and interior), screens, seals and ledges. Repair where necessary.
    24. Clean and lubricate sliding glass door tracks and window tracks.
    25. Check stucco joints around doors and windows.
    26. Inspect the dishwasher's motor spin seal, and replace if necessary.
    27. Inspect laundry washer water fill hoses for cracks, blisters, corroded fittings and leaks.
    28. Place beeswax or paraffin on built-in kitchen cabinets that have wooden guides.
    29. Inspect for creosote deposits in the fireplace flue liner, these are black or brown residue of combustion that collects on the inner surfaces. If the build up is more than 1/8 inch, remove it.
    30. Vacuum around the gas hot water heater (especially near furnace) to remove dirt and grime.

    Tips for clogged drains:

    Keeping the Drains Clear:
    1. By pouring a pot of hot water down the drain once a week will melt away any fat or grease that may have built up in the drain line or P-trap.
    2. If you have a clogged drain, just pour a 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/2 cup of white vinegar down the drain. Cover the drain and let the mixture sit for a few minutes, then pour a pot of hot water down the drain. This will break down fats and also keep the drains smelling fresh.
    3. Every six months, keep your drains clean by using a copper sulfide or sodium hydroxide-based drain cleaner, or other recommended drain cleaner available from your local store.


    Other safety tips:

    Ensure that you know where the following items are located:
    1. Emergency contact telephone numbers.
    2. Fire extinguishers and water hose pipes.
    3. Heating gas/fuel main shutoff valve.
    4. Main electrical disconnect circuit breaker (breaker box/service panel).
    5. Main drain line clean-out.
    6. Main water shut off valve.
    7. All window and door exits.

    In addition to the above, carry out the following monthly safety checks:

    Some of these items may have already be included in the home maintenance list, but these monthly safety checks are advisable for safety reasons:
    1. Test ground fault circuit interrupter receptacles (GFCI's).
    2. Test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, replace batteries if necessary.
    3. Inspect and lubricate (if necessary) all emergency exits, including windows and doors.
    4. Inspection of heating unit and water heater for visual integrity.

    Home appliance estimated life spans:

    Dishwasher water valves: 3-7 years.
    Range and oven: 18-20 years.
    Garbage disposal: 10 years.
    Microwave: 10 years.
    Refrigerator: 18-20 years.
    Laundry washer: 14 years.
    Laundry drier: 14 years.
    Refrigerator/Freezer: 18-20 years.
    Central air conditioner system: 15 years.
    Window mounted air conditioning system: 8 years.
    Bathtub/Sink: 50 years.
    Garage door opener: 10 years.
    Laundry water fill hoses: 3-5 years.
    Trash compactor: 10 years.